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1.0 


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111.25 


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m 


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Mtbi- 


1.8 


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2 

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32X 


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I  / 


fnilms  Mmn\mts  of  €tmnm. 


Kh.- 


ADVENTURE  OF  A  TRAVELLEIl  IX  HUNGARY.   11 


Cf 


INCIDENTS 


AND 


NAE  RAT  IVES  OF  TRAVEL, 


IN 


W 


EUROPE,  ASIA,  AFRICA  AND  AMERICA, 


\^;r.'-'i 


IN  VARIOUS  PERIODS  OP  HISTORY. 

_    ,    ,  .  -•■,.-       -  ■'       ...--»  r  "'  -♦ 

BY  JOHN  FROST,  LL.  D. 


^•¥- 


111 


AUBURN  AND  BUFFALO: 

JOHN    E.    BEARDSLEY. 


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Eutorod  according  to  Act  of  Cougross,  in  the  your  185*2,  by 

JOHN    F  II  0  S  T, 

In  tho  Cork's  Office  of  tho  District  Court  of  tho  United  States, 
in  and  for  tho  Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


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PREFACE. 


There  is  a  cliaiiu  in  "  perilous  adventures,** 
which  few  readers  can  resist ;  and,  accordingly, 
books  containing  thrilling  narrations  of  exploits 
and  escapes  are  generally  popular.  Most  per- 
sons peruse  tliese  books  for  amusement;  but 
it  is  obvious  that  such  works  as  the  one  we  now 
present  to  the  public  mu8t  be  full  of  important 
instruction.  The  dangers  attending  travel  in 
various  modes  and  in  various  parts  of  the 
world;  the  characteristics  of  the  people  and 
countries  observed  by  the  adventurous  travel- 
lers, and  what  sufferings  men  may  endure,  and 
what  contrive,  to  surmount  the  greatest  dan 
gers  and  difficulties,  are  to  be  gathered  from 
these  pages ;  and  surely  such  knowledge  is  wor- 
thy of  attention. 

With  most  young  persons  books  of  travel  are 


PREFACE. 


favourites.  The  names  of  Mungo  Park  and 
others  who  have  encountered  terrible  difficul- 
ties in  exploring  countries  before  unknown  are 
familiar  as  "  household  words."  Even  the  fic- 
titious attractions  of  Robinson  Crusoe  and  Gul 
liver's  Voyage  to  Lilliput  do  not  give  them  the 
superiority,  in  the  youthful  estimation.  The 
desire  to  see  other  lands  and  other  people,  be- 
sides those  among  which  we  are  bom  and  reared 
is  common.  All,  however,  have  not  the  means 
of  gratifying  themselves  in  this  particular ;  and 
to  those  who  are  compelled  to  remain  at  home, 
narratives  of  adventurous  travel  must  be  a 
source  of  pleasure.  To  such,  especially,  our 
copious  collection  with  its  many  illustrations, 
may  be  recommended. 


t  :■%.".* r  '  •*■  •"  •<»  r»^»l    ■••'  •*        "    '• 


CONTENTS.  , 


,   J  ',  e    ;  If .-. 


Adtentitrks  or  a  Travellir  in  HcKQARr 9 

Adventdre  on  the  tSr.  Lawrence 21 

Adventures  or  Mr.  Williah  Mariner 30 

Adventure  upon  the  Road 45 

NoTE3  or  A  Traveller  in  Texas 50 

Singular  Encounter  with  a  Coura  di  Gapello 65 

Tremendous  Eruption  or  Mount  Vesuvius 68 

Adventures  or  James  Bruce  in  ArRiCA 72 

Adventures  or  John  Ledtard 82 

Adventures  or  Mungo  Park 86 

M.  Simond  in  Sivitzerlano 92 

Cavaliero's  Adventures  in  Egypt 99 

A  Winter  in  the  Arctic  Regions 106 

Perilous  Ascent  or  Adam's  Peak,  in  Ceylon 110 

Adventures  or  Burckhardt 117 

A  Traveller's  Encounter  with  Albanese  Brigands  ....135 

Adventures  in  Mexico 141 

Adventures  in  California 180 

UouGiiiNG  it  in  Canada 212 

TnE  Indians  or  Canada 223 

Encounter  m'itk  the  Banditti  and  Smugglers  or  Anda- 
lusia   254 

Heetino  an  Iceberg  in  the  Northern  Ocean 259 

Adventures  in  Circassia  '. 262 

Encounter  with  Robbers  in  Turkey -277 

Adventures  in  Oregon 282 

Terrible  Shipwreck  at  tub  Cape  or  Good  Hopb 297 

Ascent  or  Mont  Blanc  by  Mademoiselle  D'Angevillb  .  .299 


8  CONTENTS. 

Loss  or  TOE  Vbtheid 308 

Adyentcres  vpon  the  Upfer  Missouri 313 

Wreck  of  the  Forfarsuire  Steamboat 326 

The  Crocodile  Battery 330 

Shipwreck  at  King's  Island 346 

Adyenture  and  Exploit  of  two  Guides 350 

Destruction  of  an  East  Indiaxan  by  Fire 358 

Adyentures  in  the  Tyrol 363 

Perilous  Adyenture  of  Lieutenant  Slidell. in  Spain... 372 
Another  Adyenture  of  Lieutenant  Slidell  with  Rob- 
bers IN  Spain 382 

Adyentures  of  Lieut.  Col.  Denhah  in  Africa 390 

Visit  of  Mr.  Ford  to  St.  Yuste,  the  last  Residence  of 

Charles  Y 398 

Sufferings  of  a  Part^  on  Frankun's  Journey  to  the 

Polar  Sea 406 

An  Earthquake  Adyenture  in  Italy 445 

Adyentures  of  Captain  Head  in  Canada 457 

Adyentures  of  an  English  Trayeller  at  an  Elephant 

Hunt  in  Nepaul 481 

Adyentures  of  Capt.  Golownin's  Party  in  Japan 491 

Loss  of  the  Blendenhall 496 

Mr.  Borrow's  Adyentures  among  the  Gipsies  in  Spain  .609 
Excursion  to  the  Great  St.  Bernai^d,   by  an  English 
Lady 532 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES 

,  AND 

THRILLING   INCIDENTS  OF  TRAVELLERS 


ADVENTURE    OF   A  TRAVELLER  IN 
HUNGARY. 


(See  Frontispiece ) 


i 


HIS  story  was  told 


me,  says  a  recent 
•writer,  by  an  Italian 
officer,  who  was  ser- 


ving, 


at  the  time  he 


fif  St  learned  it,  with 
the  *  Grande  Armde' 
of  Napoleon.  It 
seems  to  me  to  con- 
tain one  of  the  most 
striking,  most  dra- 
matic, and  terrible 
scenes  that  can  be 
conceived,  and  I 
have  only  to  regret 
that  I  lack  the  ta- 
lent or  power  of  tell- 
ing the  tale  of  horror  so  well  as  it  was  told  to  me. 
It  was  a  few  weeks  before  the  termination  of  the 


10 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


•  1 

i 


short,  but  (for  Austria)  fatal  campaign  of  1809 — that 
campaign  which,  begun  nobly  by  the  Austrians,  ended 
in  their  seeing  Buonaparte  dictate  to  their  prostrate 
empire  from  their  capital,  and  shortly  after  claim  as 
his  bride  the  daughter  of  the  sovereign  he  had  so  in- 
jured and  humbled — that  an  Hungarian  horse-dealer 
left  Vienna  to  return  to  his  home,  ■which  was  situated 
in  an  interior  province  of  his  country.  " 

He  carried  with  him,  in  paper-money  and  in  gold,  a 
very  considerable  sum,  the  product  of  the  horses  he 
had  sold  at  the  Austrian  capital.  To  carry  this  in 
safety  was  a  diflScult  object  just  at  that  time ;  for  troops, 
French  and  Austrian,  w^ere  scattered  in  every  direction, 
and  he  knew  by  experience,  that  it  was  not  always 
safe  to  fall  in  with  small  parties  of  soldiers,  even  of  his 
own  country  or  government,  (to  say  'nothing  of  the 
French,)  but  that  Croats,  and  wild  Hussars  and  Hulans, 
and  others  that  fought  under  the  Austrian  eagle,  were 
seldom  over-scrupulous  as  to  "  keeping  their  hands 
from  picking  and  stealing,"  when  opportunity  was 
favourable  or  tempting. 

The  dealer,  however,  relied  on  his  minute  knowledge 
of  the  country  he  had  traversed  so,  often ;  on  the  bottom 
and  speed  of  his  thorough-bred  Hungarian  horse; — 
and  having  obtained  what  he  considered  good  informa- 
tion, as  to  the  posts  occupied  by  the  belligerents,  and 
the  range  of  country  most  exposed  to  the  soldiery,  he 
set  out  from  Vienna,  which  he  feared  would  soon  be  in 
the  hands  of  the  enemy.  He  went  alone,  and  on  his 
road  carefully  avoided,  instead  of  seeking  the  company 
of  other  travellers,  for  he  reasonably  judged,  that  a 
solitary  individual,  meanly  dressed  as  he  was,  might 


ADVENTURE  OP  A  TRAVELLER  IN  HUNGARY.      11 


escape  notice,  while  a  party  of  travellers  would  be  sure 
to  attract  it.  "  "^ 

By  his  good  management  he  passed  the  Hnngarian 
frontier  unharmed,  and  continued  his  journey  home- 
ward by  a  circuitous  unfrequented  route.  On  the 
third  night  after  his  departure  from  Vienna,  he  stopped 
at  a  quiet  inn,  situated  in  the  suburbs  of  a  small  town. 
He  had  never  been  there  before,  but  the  house  was 
comfortable,  and  the  appearance  of  the  people  about  it 
respectable.  Having  first  attended  to  his  tired  horse, 
he  sat  down  to  supper  with  his  host  and  family.  During 
the  meal,  he  was  asked  whence  he  came,  and  when  he 
had  said  from  Vienna,  all  present  were  anxious  to  know 
the  news.  The  dealer  told  them  all  he  knew.  The 
host  then  inquired  what  business  had  carried  him  to 
Vienna.  He  told  them  he  had  been  thereto  sell  some 
of  the  best  horses  that  were  ever  taken  to  that  market. 
When  he  heard  this,  the  -host  cast  a  glance  at  one  of 
the  men  of  the  family  who  seemed  to  be  his  son,  which 
the  dealer  scarcely  observed  then,  but  which  he  had 
reason  to  recall  afterwards. 

When  supper  was  finished,  the  fatigued  traveller  re- 
quested to  be  shown  to  his  bed.  The  host  himself  took 
up  a  light,  and  conducted  him  across  a  little  yard  at 
the  back  of  the  house  to  a  detached  building  which 
contained  two  rooms,  tolerably  decent  for  a  Hungarian 
hostel.  In  the  inner  of  these  rooms  was  a  bed,  and 
here  the  host  left  him  to  himself.  As  the  dealer  threw 
off  his  jacket  and  loosened  the  girdle  round  his  waist 
where  his  money  was  deposited,  he  thought  he  might 
as  well  see  whether  it  was  all  safe.  Accordingly  he 
drew  out  an  old  leathern  purse  that  contained  his  gold, 


12 


PEKILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


l;.i 


and  then  a  tattered  parchment  pocket-booi  CiiUi  /^avol- 
oped  the  Austrian  bank  notes,  and  finding  that  both 
were  quite  right,  he  laid  them  under  the  bolster,  extin- 
guished the  light,  and  threw  himself  on  the  bed, 
thanking  God  and  the  saints  that  had  carried  him  thus 
far  homeward  in  safety.  He  had  no  misgiving  as  to 
the  character  of  the  people  he  had  fallen  amongst  t6 
hinder  his  repose,  and  the  poor  dealer  was  very  soon 
enjoying  a  profound  and  happy  sleep. 

He  might  have  been  in  this  state  of  beatitude  an 
hour  or  two,  when  he  was  disturbed  by  a  noise  like  that 
of  an  opening  window,  and  by  a  sudden  rush  of  cool 
night  air;  oi^ raising  himself  on  the  bed,  he  saw  peer- 
ing through  an  open  window  which  was  almost  imme- 
diately above  the  bed,  the  head  and  shoulders  of  a  man, 
who  was  evi(]^tly  attempting  to  make  his  ingress  into 
the  room  that  way.  As  the  terrified  dealer  looked,  the 
intruding  figure  was  withdrawn,  and  he  heard  a  rum- 
bling noise,  and  then  the  voices  of  several  men,  as  he 
thought,  close  under  the  window.  The  most  dreadful 
apprehensions,  the  more  horriole  as  they  were  so  sudden, 
now  agitated  the  traveller,  who,  scarcely  knowing  what 
he  did,  but  utterly  despairing  of  preserving  his  life, 
threw  himself  under  the  bed.  He  had  scarcely  done 
so  when  the  hard  breathing  of  a  man  was  heard  at  the 
open  window,  and  the  next  minute  a  robust  fellow 
dropped  into  the  room,  and,  after  staggering  across  it, 
groped  his  way  by  the  walls  to  the  bed.  Fear  had 
almost  deprived  the  horse  dealer  of  his  senses,  but  yet 
he  perceived  that  the  intruder,  whoever  he  might  be, 
was  drunk.  There  was,  however,  slight  comfort  in 
this,  for  he  might  only  have  swallowed  wine  to  make 


it. 


ADVENTURE   OF  A   TRAVELLER   IN   HUNGARY.      13 


i 


him  the  more  desperato,  and  the  traveller  was  convinced 
he  had  heard  the  voices  of  other  men  without,  who 
might  climb  into  the  room  to  assist  their  brother  villain 
in  case  any  resistance  should  be  made.  His  astonish- 
ment, however,  was  great  and  reviving,  when  he  heard 
the  fellow  throw  off  his  jacket  on  the  floor,  and  then 
toss  himself  upon  the  bed  under  which  he  lay.  Terror, 
however,  had  taken  too  firm  a  hold  of  the  traveller  to 
be  shaken  off  at  once, — his  ideas  were  too  confused  to 
permit  his  imagining  any  other  motive  for  such  a  mid- 
night intrusion  on  an  unarmed  man  with  property 
about  him,  save  that  of  robbery  and  assassination,  and 
he  lay  quiet  where  he  was,  until  he  heard  the  fellow 
above  him  snoring  with  all  the  sonorousness  of  a  drunk- 
ard. Then,  indeed,  he  would  have  left  his  hiding-place 
and  gone  to  rouse  the  people  in  the  inn  to  get  another 
resting-place  instead  of  the  bed  of  which  he  had  just 
been  dispossessed  in  so  singular  a  manner,  but,  just  as 
he  came  to  this  resolution,  he  heard  the  door  of  the 
outer  room  open — then  stealthy  steps  crossed  it — then 
the  door  of  the  very  room  he  was  in  was  softly  opened, 
and  two  men,  one  of  whom  was  the  host,  and  the  other 
his  son,  appeared  on  its  threshold. 
'  "Leave  the  light  where  it  is,"  whispered  the  host, 
"or  it  may  disturb  him  and  give  us  trouble."  *'' 

"  There  is  no  fear  of  that,"  said  the  younger  man, 
also  in  a  whisper,  "  we  are  two  to  one ;  he  has  nothing 
but  a  little  knife  about  him — he  is  dead  asleep  too ! 
hear  how  he  snores !" 

"  Do  my  bidding,"  said  the  old  man  sternly ;  "  would 
you  have  him  wake  and  rouse  the  neighbourhood  with 
his  screams?" 

2 


14 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


As  it  was,  the  horror-stricken  dealer  under  the  bed 
could  scarcely  suppress  a  shriek,  but  he  saw  that  the 
son  left  the  light  in  the  outer  toom,  and  then,  pulling 
the  door  partially  after  them  to  screen  the  rays  of  the 
lamp  from  the  bed,  he  saw  the  two  murderers  glide  to 
the  bed-side,  and  then  heard  a  rustling  motion  as  of 
arms  descending  on  the  bed-clothes,  and  a  hissing,  and 
then  a  grating  sound,  that  turned  his  soul  sick,  for  he 
knew  it  came  from  knives  or  daggers  penetrating  to  the 
heart  or  vitals  of  a  human  being  like  himself,  and  only 
a  few  inches  above  his  own  body.  This  was  followed 
by  one  sudden  and  violent  start  on  the  bed,  accom- 
panied by  a  moan.  Then  the  bed,  which  was  a  low 
one,  was  bent  with  an  increase  of  weight  caused  by  one 
or  both  the  murderers  throwing  themselves  upon  it, 
until  it  pressed  on  the  body  of  the  traveller.  There 
was  an  awful  silence  for  a  moment  or  two,  and  then  the 
host  said,  ''  He  is  finished — I  have  cut  him  across  the 
throat — take  the  money.  I  saw  him  put  it  under  his 
bolster." 


.  i-.-.-rt.-<^-*:i'i*«*.';.  '^'A  if  i'  ^.taJ--.««»<s^ii:«t;.#4i*Ct  ftj'te?  -¥=»#«» 


(( 


I  have  it,  here  it  is/'  said  the  son ;  "  a  purse  and 
a  pocket-book. 

The  traveller  was  then  relieved  from  the  weight  that 
had  oppressed  him  almost  to  suffocation,  and  the  assas- 
sins, who  seemed  to  tremble  as  they  went,  ran  out  of 
the  room,  took  up  the  light,  and  disappeared  altogether, 
from  the  apartment. 

No  sooner  were  they  fairly  gone,  than  the  poor 
dealer  crawled  from  under  the  bed,  took  one  desperate 
leap,  and  escaped  through  the  little  window  by  which 
he  had  seen  enter  the  unfortunate  wretch  who  had 
evidently  been  murdered  in  his  stead.     He  ran  with  all 


ADVENTURE  OF  A  TRAVELLER  IN  HUNGARY.   15 


the  bed 
that  the 
pulling 
}  of  the 
glide  to 
1  as  of 
ng,  and 
:,  for  he 
g  to  the 
md  only 
followed 
,  accqm- 
,s  a  low 
i  by  one 
upon  it, 
There 
then  the 
;ross  the 
nder  his 

irse  and 

B!;ht  that 
e  assas- 
out  of 
)gether, 

le  poor 
sperate 
Y  which 
ho  had 
(vith  all 


' 


his  speed  into  the  town,  where,  he  told  his  horrid  story 
and  miraculous  escape  to  the  night-watch.  The  night- 
watch  conducted  him  to  the  Burgomaster,  who  was  soon 
aroused  from  his  sleep,  and  acquainted  with  all  that 
had  happened. 

In  less  than  half  an  hour  from  the  time  of  his  escape 
from  it,  the  horse-dealer  was  again  at  the  murderous 
■  inn  with  the  magistrate  and  a  strong  force  of  the  hor- 
ror-stricken inhabitants,  and  the  night-watch,  who  had 
all  run  thither  in  the  greatest  silence.    In  the  house 
all  seemed  as  still  as  death,  but  as  the  party  went 
round  to  the  stables,  they  heard  a  noise ;  cautioning 
,the  rest  to  surround  the  inn  and  the  outhouses,  the 
■>  magistrate  with  the  traveller  and  some  half  dozen 
armed  men  ran  to  the  stable  door — this  they  opened, 
and  found  within  the  host  and  his  son  digging  a  grave. 
The  first  figure  that  met  the  eyes  of  the  murderers 
,  was  that  of  the  traveller.    The  efiect  of  this  on  their 
...  guilty  souls  waS  too  much  to  be  borne :  they  shrieked, 
,  and  threw  themselves  on  the  ground,  and  though  they 
.  were  immediately  seized  by  hard  griping  hands  of  real 
flesh  and  blood,  and  heard  the  voices  of  the  magistrate 
and  their  frionds  and  neighbours  denouncing  them  as 
murderers,  it  was  some  minutes  ere  they  could  believe 
.  that  the  figure  of  the  traveller  that  stood  among  them 
was  other  than  a  spirit.    It  was  the  hardier  villain, 
the  father,  who,  on  hearing  the  stranger's  voice  con- 
tinuing in  conversation  with  the  magistrate,  first  gained 
sufficient  command  over  himself  to  raise  his  face  from 
the  earth ;  he  saw  the  stranger  still  pale  and  haggard, 
but  evidently  unhurt.     The  murderer's  head  spun  round 
confusedly,  but  at  length  rising,  he  said  to  those  who 


16 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


i| .; 


.1  '  ! 


held  him,  "  Let  me  see  that  stranger  nearer ;  let  me 
touch  him — only  let  me  touch  him  !"  The  poor  horse- 
dealer  drew  back  in  horror  and  disgust. 

"You  may  satisfy  him  in  this,"  said  the  magistrate, 
<'  he  is  unarmed  and  unnerved,  and  we  are  here  to  pre- 
vent his  doing  you  harm."  *'^^-  '*^^'  ~ 

On  this,  the  traveller  let  the  host  approach  him,  and 
pass  his  hand  over  his  person,  which  when  he  had 
done,  the  villain  exclaimed,  "  I  am  no  murderer !  who 
says  I  am  a  murderer  ?" 

"  That  shall  we  see  anon,"  said  the  traveller,  who 
led  the  way  to  the  detached  apartment,  followed  by  the 
magistrate,  by  the  two  prisoners,  and  all  the  party 
which  had  collected  in  the  stable  on  hearing  what 
passed  there. 

Both  father  and  son  walked  with  considerable  confi- 
dence into  the  room,  but  when  they  saw  by  the  lamps, 
the  night-watch  and  others  held  over  it,  that  there  was 
a  body  covered  with  blood,  lying  up?n  the  bed,  they 
cried  out,  "How  is  this!  who  is  this!"  and  rushed 
together  to  the  bed-side.  The  lights  were  lowered; 
their  rays  fell  upon  the  ghastly  face  and  bleeding 
throat  of  a  young  man.  At  the  sight,  the  younger  of 
the  murderers  turned  his  head,  and  swooned  in  silence ; 
but  the  father,  uttering  a  shriek  so  loud,  so  awful,  that 
one  of  the  eternally  damned  alone  might  equal  its 
effect,  threw  himself  on  the  bed  and  on  the  gashed  and 
bloody  body,  and  murmuring  in  his  throat,  "  My  son ! 
I  have  killed  mine  own  son  !"  also  found  a  temporary 
relief  from  the  horrors  of  his  situation  in  insensibility. 
The  next  minute,  the  wretched  hostess,  who  was  inno- 
cent of  all  that  had  passed,  and  who  was,  without 


to 


ADVENTURE   OF  A  TRAVELLER  IN  HUNQART.      17 


lence ; 
1,  that 
kal  its 
id  and 

son! 
j)orary 
[bility. 

inno- 
Kthoat 


knowing  it,  the  wife  of  a  murderer,  the  mother  of  a 
murderer,  and  the  mother  of  a  murdered  son— of  a  son 
killed  by  a  brother  and  a  father,  ran  to  the  apartment, 
and  would  have  increased  tenfold  its  already  insup- 
portable horrors  by  entering  there,  had  she  not  been 
prevented  by  the  honest  towns-people.  She  had  been 
roused  from  sleep  by  the  noise  made  in  the  stable,  and 
then  by  her  husband's  shriek,  and  was  now  herself, 
shrieking  and  frantic,  carried  back  into  the  inn  by  main 
force.      ^ 

The  two  murderers  were  forthwith  bound  and  carried 
to  the  town  gaol,  where,  on  the  examination,  which 
was  made  the  next  morning,  it  appeared  from  evidence 
that  the  person  murdered  was  the  youngest  son  of  the 
landlord  of  the  inn,  and  a  person  never  suspected  of 
any  crime  more  serious  than  habitual  drunkenness; 
that  instead  of  being  in  bed,  as  his  father  and  brother 
had  believed  him,  he  had  stolen  out  of  the  house,  and 
joined  a  party  of  earousers  in  the  town :  of  these  boon 
companions,  all  appeared  in  evidence,  and  two  of  them 
deposed  that  the  deceased,  being  exceedingly  intoxi- 
cated, and  dreading  his  father's  wrath,  should  he  rouse 
the  house  in  such  a  state,  and  at  that  late  hour,  had 
said  to  them  that  he  would  get  through  the  window  into 
the  little  detached  apartment,  and  sleep  there,  as  he 
had  often  done  before,  and  that  they  two  had  accom- 
panied him,  and  assisted  him  to  climb  to  the  window. 
The  deceased  had  reached  the  window  once,  and  as 
they  thought  would  have  got  safe  through  it,  but  drunk 
and  unsteady  as  he  was,  he  slipped  back;  they  had 
then  some  difficulty  in  inducing  him  to  climb  again,  for 
in  the  caprice  of  intoxication,  he  said  he  would  rather 

2* 


18 


PEUILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


'      '*        •      ,  i  r* 


go  to  Bleep  ivith  one  of  his  comrades.  Hoyrever,  he 
had  at  last  effected  his  entrance,  and  they,  his  two 
comrades,  had  gone  to  their  respective  homes. 

The  wretched  criminals  were  executed  a  few  weeks 
fter  the  commission  of  the  crime.  They  had  con- 
fessed every  thing,  and  restored  to  the  horse-dealer  the 
gold. and  the  paper-money  they  had  concealed,  and 
which  had  led  them  to  a  deed  so  much  more  atrocious 
than  even  they  had  contewplftted. 


-.*,.'!,<( 


i  ^^: 


?«lr 


■nl 


j;'^ 


:f.- . 


f    z,- 


>  ' 


flM 


I 


,t.^.. 


fm'?'-. 


IE 


( 


•  ;■(,       ■■    f'    •      ... 


.*■.,'.:,    .^'U. 


y, 

H 
03 

M 

a 

H 

o 

H 


KS   ADVDM'ORE  DN  THE  ST.   LAWRENCE. 

HE  following  niivrative 
of  a  remarkable  adven- 
ture   on   the   St.    Law- 
v_-    rence,  appeared  a  num- 
^--    ber  of  years  ago  in  a  Liv  • 
L^^    erpool  newspaper,  where 
ti^;;    it   was   voucliod    for   as 
"^     true  in  every  pui-ticnlar : 
"  On  the  22d  of  April,  1810,  our  party  set  pmII  in  a 
large  schooner  from  Fu;t  George,  or  Nijigjr.-M   Town, 
in  Upper  Canada,  and  in  two  <]ay,s  crt).s.scd  Lake  ()iit;irio 
to  Kingston,  at  the  head  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  dis- 
tant fiom  Niagara  about  200  miles.     Ifcre  we  hired 
an   American   bar^je — a   largo   {'.at-bottoincd    boat — to 
carry  us  to  Montreal,  a  further  distatico  of  200  miles: 
then  set  out  from  Kingston  on  tlie  2(Sth  of  Aj)iil,  and 
arrived  the  same  evening  at  Ogdenbui'gh,  a  distance 
of  75  miles.     The   following   evening   we    arrived    at 
Cornwall ;  and  the  succeeding  night,  at  Pointe  du  Lac, 
on  Lake  St.  Francis :  here  our  bargemen  obtained  our 
permission  to  return  up  the  river  :  and  we  embarked 
in  another  barge,  deeply  laden  with  potashes,  passengers, 
nnd  luggage.     Above  Montreal,  for  nearly  100  miles, 
the  river  St.  Lawrence  is  interrupted  in  its  course  by 
rapids,  which  are  occasioned  bv  the  river  being  con- 


I 


22 


PERILOUS   ADVENTIIIIES. 


fined  within  comparatively  narrow,  shallow,  rocky  chan- 
nels :  through  these  it  rushes  with  great  force  and 
noise,  and  is  agitated  like  the  ocean  in  a  storm.     Many 
people  prefer  these  rapids,  for  grandeur  of  appearance, 
to  the  Falls  of  Niagara ;  they  arre  from  half  a  mile  to 
nine  miles  long  each,  and  require  regular  pilots.     On 
the  30th  of  April,  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  tho 
Cedars ;  immediately  below  which  are  three  sets  of 
very  dangerous  rapids — the  Cedars,  the  Split-Rock, 
and  the  Cascades — distant  from  ef.ch  other  about  one 
mile.     On  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  Mi«y,  we  set  out 
from  the  Cedars ;  the  barge  very  deep  and  very  leaky ; 
the  captain,  a  daring,  rash  man,  refused  to  take  a 
pilot.     After  wc  passed  the  Cedar  Rapid,  not  without 
danger,  the  captain  called  foi   some  rum,  swearing  at 
the  same  time  Avith  horrid  impiety  that  all  the  powers 
could  not  steer  the  barge  better  than  he  did.     Soon 
after  this,   we  entered  the  Split-Rock   Rapids  by  a 
wrong  channel,  and  found  ourselves  advancing  rapidly 
towards  a  dreadful  watery  precipice,  down  which  we 
Avent.     The  barge  slightly  grazed  her  bottom  against 
the  ri)ck.  And  the  fall  was  so  great  as  nearly  to  take 
a»7ay  the  breath.     We  here  took  in  a  great  deal  of 
water,  which  was  mostly  baled  out  again  before  we  hur- 
ried on  to  what  the  Canadians  call  the  grand  bouillie,  or 
great  boiling.     In  approaching  this  place,  the  captain 
let  go  the  helm,  saying:  "Now  for  it!  here  we  fill!" 
The  barge  was  almost  immediately  overwhelmed  in  tho 
midst  of  immense  foaming  breakers,  which  rushed  over 
tlie    bows,    dairying    away  planks,   oars,  &c.     About 
half  a  minute  elapsed  between  the  filling  and  going 
down  of  the  barge,  during  which  I  had  sufficient  pre- 


■1 


J 


i 


ADVENTURE   ON   THE   ST.    LAWRENCE- 


23 


eence  of  mind  to  strip  off  my  three  coats,  and  was 
loosening  my  suspenders,  when  the  barge  sank,  and  I 
found  myself  floating  in  the  midst  of  people,  baggage, 
&c.  Each  man  caught  hold  of  something ;  one  of  the 
crew  caught  hold  of  me,  and  kept  m  '  •  own  under  water ; 
but,  contrary  to  my  expectations,  let  me  go  again.  On 
rising  to  the  surface,  I  got  hold  of  a  trunk,  on  which 
two  other  men  were  then  holding.  Just  at  this  spot 
where  the  Split-Bock  Rapids  terminate,  the  bank  of 
the  river  is  well  inhabited,  and  we  could  see  women  on 
shore,  running  about,  much  agitated.  A  canoe  put  off, 
and  picked  up  three  of  our  number,  who  had  gained  the 
bottom  of  the  barge,  which  had  upset  and  got  rid  of  its 
cargo:  these  they  landed  ou  an  island.  The  canoe 
put  off  again,  and  was  approaching  near  to  where  I 
was,  with  two  others,  holding  on  by  the  trunk ;  when,' 
terrified  with  the  vicinity  of  the  Cascades,  to  which  we 
were  approaching,  it  put  back,  notwithstanding  my  ex- 
hortations in  French  and  English,  to  induce  the  two 
men  on  board  to  advance.  The  bad  hold  which  one 
man  had  of  the  trunk  to  which  we  were  adhering,  sub- 
jected him  to  constant  immersions;  and  in  order  to 
escape  his  seizing  hold  of  me,  I  let  go  the  trunk,  and 
in  conjunction  with  another  man,  got  hold  of  the  boom 
— which,  with  the  gaff,  sails,  &c.  had  been  detached 
from  the  mast,  to  make  room  for  the  cargo — and  floated 
off.  I  had  just  time  to  grasp  this  boom,  when  we  were 
hurried  into  the  Cascades:  in  these  I  was  instantly 
buried,  and  nearly  suffocated.  On  rising  to  the  sur- 
face, I  found  one  of  my  hands  still  on  the  boom,  and 
my  companion  also  adhering  to  the  gaff.  Shortly  after 
descending  the  Cascades,  I  perceived  the  bftrge,  bottom 


24 


PERILOUS    ADVENTURES. 


upwards,  floating  near  me.  I  succeeded  in  getting  to 
it,  and  held  by  a  crack  in  one  end  of  it ;  the  violence 
of  the  water,  and  the  falling  out  of  the  casks  of  ashes, 
had  quite  wrecked  it.  For  a  long  time,  I  contented 
myself  with  this  hold,  not  daring  to  endeavour  to  get 
upon  the  bottom,  which  I  at  length  effected ;  and  from 
this,  my  new  situation,  I  called  out  to  my  companion, 
who  still  preserved  his  hold  of  the  gaff.  He  shook  his 
head;  and  when  the  waves  suffered  me  to  look  up 
again,  he  was  gone.  He  made  no  attempt  to  come 
near  me,  being  unable  or  unwilling  to  let  go  his  hold, 
and  trust  himself  to  the  waves,  which  were  then  rolling 
over  his  head. 

"  The  Gascade3  are  a  kind  of  fall  or  rapid  descent  in 
the  river,  over  a  rocky  channel  below :  going  down  is 
Called  by  the  French  sauter — to  leap  or  shove  the 
Cascades.  For  two  miles  below,  the  channel  continues 
.  in  uproar,  just  like  a  storm  at  sea ;  and  I  was  frequently 
nearly  washed  off  the  barge  by  the  waves  which  rolled 
over  it.  I  now  entertained  no  hope  whatever  of  es- 
caping ;  and  although  I  continued  to  exert  myself  to 
hold  on,  such  was  the  state  to  which  I  was  reduced  by 
cold,  that  I  wished  only  for  speedy  death,  and  frequently 
thought  of  giving  up  the  contest  as  useless.  I  felt  as 
if  compressed  into  the  size  of  a  monkey;  my  hands 
appeared  diminished  in  size  one  half;  and  I  certainly 
hould — after  I  became  very  cold  and  much  exhausted 
— have  fallen  asleep,  but  for  the  waves  that  were  pass- 
ing over  me,  which  obliged  me  to  attend  to  my  situa- 
tion. I  had  never  descended  the  St  Lawrence  before ; 
but  I  knew  there  were  more  rapids  ahead — perhaps 
another  set  of  the  Cascades — but,  at  all  events,  the 


ADVENTURE   ON   THE   ST.    LAWllENCE. 


25 


La  Chine  Rapids,  whose  situation  I  did  not  exactly 
know.  I  was  in  hourly  expectation  of  these  putting  an 
end  to  me,  and  often  fancied  some  points  of  ice,  ex- 
tending from  the  shore,  to  be  the  head  of  foaming  rapids. 
At  one  of  the  moments  in  which  the  succession  of  waves 
permitted  me  to  look  up,  I  saw,  at  a  distance,  a  canoe, 
with  four  men,  coming  towards  me,  and  waited  in  confi- 
dence to  hear  the  sound  of  their  paddles ;  but  in  this  I 
was  disappointed:  the  men,  as  I  afterwards  learned, 
were  Indians, — genuine  descendants  of  the  Tartars — 
who,  happening  to  fall  in  with  one  of  the  passenger's 
trunks,  picked  it  up,  and  returned  to  the  shore  for  the 
purpose  of  pillaging  it,  leaving,  as  they  since  acknowl- 
edged, the  man  on  the  boat  to  his  fate.  Indeed,  I  am 
certain  I  should  have  had  more  to  fear  from  their  avari oe 
than  to  hope  from  their  humanity ;  and  it  is  more  than 
probable  that  my  life  would  have  been  taken,  to  secure 
them  in  the  possession  of  my  watch  and  several  half- 
eagles  which  I  had  about  me.  The  accident  happened 
at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning ;  in  the  course  of  some 
hours,  as  the  day  advanced,  and  the  sun  grew  warmer, 
the  wind  blew  from  the  south,  and  the  water  became 
calmer.  I  got  upon  my  knees,  and  found  myself  in  the 
small  lake  St.  Louis,  about  three  to  five  miles  wide : 
with  some  difficulty,  I  got  upon  my  feet,  but  was  soon 
convinced,  by  cramps  and  spasms  in  all  my  sinews, 
that  I  was  quite  incapable  of  swimming  any  distance, 
and  I  was  then  two  miles  from  the  shore.  I  was  now 
going,  with  wind  and  current,  to  destruction ;  and  cold, 
hungry,  and  fatigued,  was  obliged  again  to  sit  down  in 
the  water  to  rest,  when  an  extraordinary  circumstance 
greatly  relieved  me.     On  examining  the  wreck,  to  see 

a 


26 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUllES. 


if  it  were  possible  to  detach  any  part  of  it  to  steer  by, 
I  perceived  something  loose,  entangled  in  a  fork  of  the 
wreck,  and  so  carried  along :  this  I  found  to  be  a  small 
trunk,  bottom  upwards,  which,  with  some  diflSculty,  I 
dragged  up  upon  the  barge.  After  near  an  hour's  work, 
in  which  I  broke  my  penknife,  whilst  trying  to  cut  out 
the  lock,  I  made  a  hole  in  the  top,  and,  to  my  great 
satisfaction,  drew  out  a  bottle  of  rum,  a  cold  tongue, 
some  cheese,  and  a  bag  full  of  bread,  cakes,  &c.  all  wet. 
Of  these  I  made  a  seasonable,  though  very  moderate 
use ;  and  the  trunk  answered  the  purpose  of  a  chair  to 
sit  upon,  elevated  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  sv>,: 

*'  After  in  vain  endeavouring  to  steer  the  wreck,  or 
direct  its  course  to  the  shore,  and  having  made  every 
signal-^with  my  waistcoat,  &c. — in  my  power  to  the 
several  headlands  which  I  had  passed,  I  fancied  I  was 
driving  into  a  bay,  which,  however,  soon  proved  to  be 
the  termination  of  the  lake,  and  the  opening  of  the 
river,  the  current  of.  which  was  carrying  me  rapidly 
along.  I  passed  several  small  uninhabited  islands  ;  but 
the  banks  of  the  river  appearing  to  be  covered  with 
houses,  I  again  renewed  my  signals,  with  my  waistcoat 
and  a  shirt,  which  I  took  out  of  the  trunk,  hoping,  as 
the  river  narrowed,  they  might  be  perceived.  The 
distance  was  too  great.  The  velocity  with  which  I  was 
going  convinced  me  of  "ly  near  approach  to  the  dread- 
ful rapids  of  La  Chine.  Night  was  drawing  on ;  my 
destruction  appeared  certain,  but  it  did  not  disturb  me 
very  much :  the  idea  of  death  had  lost  its  novelty,  and 
had  become  quite  familiar.  I  really  felt  more  provoked 
at  having  escaped  so  long  to  be  finally  sacrificed,  than 
alarmed  at  the  prospect.    Finding  signals  in  vain,  I 


ADVENTUUE   ON    THE   ST.   LAWKEXCE. 


27 


now  set  up  a  cry  or  howl,  such  as  I  thought  best  calcu- 
lated to  carry  to  a  distance,  and,  being  favoured  by  the 
wind,  it  did,  although  at  above  a  mile  distant,  reach 
the  ears  of  some  people  on  shore.  At  last  I  perceived 
a  boat  rowing  towards  me,  which  being  very  small  and 
white-bottomed,  I  had  for  some  time  taken  for  a  fowl 
with  a  white  breast ;  and  I  was  taken  oif  the  barge  by 
Captain  Johnstone,  after  being  ten  hours  on  the  water. 
I  found  myself  at  the  village  of  La  Chine,  twenty-one 
miles  below  where  the  accident  happened,  having  been 
driven  by  the  winding  of  the  current  a  much  greater 
distance.  I  received  no  other  injury  than  bruised  knees 
and  breast,  with  a  slight  cold.  The  accident  took  some 
hold  of  my  imagination,  and  for  seven  or  eight  suceed- 
ing  nights,  in  my  dreams,  I  was  engaged  in  the  dangers 
of  the  Cascades,  and  surrounded  by  drowning  men,  &c. 
My  escape  was  owing  to  a  concurrence  of  fortunate 
circumstances.  I  happened  to  catch  hold  of  various 
ai  tides  of  support,  and  to  exchange  each  article  for 
another  just  at  the  right  time.  Nothing  but  the  boom 
could  have  carried  me  down  the  Cascades  without  injury, 
and  nothing  but  the  barge  could  have  saved  me  below 
them.  I  was  also  fortunate  in  having  the  Avhole  day : 
had  the  accident  happened  one  hour  later,  I  should  have 
arrived  opposite  the  village  of  La  Chine  after  dark,  and, 
of  course,  would  have  been  destroyed  in  the  rapids 
below,  to  which  I  was  rapidly  advanchig.  The  trunk 
which  furnished  me  with  provisions  and  a  resting-place 
above  the  water,  I  have  every  reason  to  think  was 
necessary  to  save  my  life;  without  it,  I  must  have 
passed  the  whole  time  in  the  water,  and  have  been  ex- 
nausted  with  cold  and  hunger.     When  the  people  on 


/ 


28 


PEllILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


shore  saw  our  boat  take  the  wrong  channel,  thoy  pre- 
dicted our  destruction :  tlio  floating  luggage,  by  sup- 
porting us  for  a  time,  enabled  them  to  make  an  exer- 
tion to  save  us ;  but  as  it  was  not  supposed  possible  to 
survive  the  pass.age  of  the  Cascades,  no  further  exer- 
tions were  thought  of,  nor,  indeed,  could  they  well 
have  been  made. 

"  It  was  at  this  very  place  that  General  Amherst's 
brigade  of  three  hundred  men,  coming  to  attack  Canada, 
was  lost :  the  French  at  Montreal  received  the  first  in- 
telligence of  the  invasion,  by  the  dead  bodies  floating 
past  the  town.  The  pilot  who  conducted  their  first 
bateau,  committing — it  is  said  intentionally — the  saine 
error  that  we  did,  ran  for  the  wrong  channel,  and  the 
other  bateaux  following  close,  all  were  involved  in  tlie 
same  destruction.  The  whole  party  with  which  I  was, 
escaped  :  four  left  the  barge  at  the  Cedar  village  above 
the  rapids,  and  went  to  Montreal  by  land ;  two  more 
were  saved  by  the  canoe ;  tho  barge's  crew,  all  accus- 
tomed to  labour,  were  lost;  of  the  eight  men  who  passed 
down  the  Cascades,  none  but  myself  escaped,  or  v/ere 
seen  again ;  nor,  indeed,  was  it  possible  for  any  one, 
without  my  extraordinary  luck,  and  the  aid  of  the 
barge,  to  which  they  must  have  been  very  close,  to 
have  escaped ;  the  other  men  must  have  been  drowned 
immediately  on  entering  the  Cascades.  The  trunks,  &c. 
to  which  they  adhered,  and  the  heavy  greatcoats  which 
they  had  on,  very  probably  holped  to  overwhelm  thom ; 
but  they  must  have  gone  at  all  events :  swimming  in 
such  a  current  of  broken  stormy  waves  was  impossible ; 
still,  I  think  my  knowing  how  to  swim,  kept  me  more 
collected,  and  rendered  me  more  willing  to  part  with 


ADVENTLl'.E   ON    Till: 


iWIll-.NCE. 


29 

one  article  of  support  to  gain  a  bettor ;  those  who  could 
not  swim  would  naturally  cling  to  whatever  hold  they 
first  got;  and,  of  course,  many  had  very  bad  ones. 
The  captain  passed  me  above  the  Cascades  on  a  sack 
of  woollen  clothes,  which  were  doubtless  Boon  saturated 
and  sunk."  i  ^ 


■' 
i 

i 


I 


: 


t    '        X    '''J- 


.  t 


gi 


ADVENTURES  OF  MR.  WILLIAM  MARINER. 

R.  William  Mariner  was  a  native  of 
England.  Possessing  an  intelli- 
gent mind  and  a  daring  disposition 
he,  at  an  early  age,  evinced  a  desire 
to  visit  other  lands.  When  quite 
a  young  man,  he  sailed  as  captain's 
clerk,  on  board  of  the  privateer. 
Port  au  Prince.  This  vessel  had  a  twofold  commission. 
If  not  very  successful  in  her  cruize  fo»  prizes  within 
certain  latitudes,  she  was  to  double  Cape  Horn,  and 
proceed  to  the  Pacific  ocean  in  search  of  whales. 
Captain  Duck,  the  commander  of  the  Port  au  Prince, 
was  Mr.  Mariner's  particular  friend. 

On  her  way  to  the  South  Pacific,  the  privateer  cap- 
tured several  Spanish  vessels,  and  on  arriving  at  the 
whaling  ground,  was  very  successful  in  the  fishery. 


4 


5 

W 

o 
o 

'^  li 


^ 


ilNER. 

ativc  of 

intelli- 

position 

a  desire 

n  quite 

aptain's 

rivateer, 

mission. 

s  Tvitliin 

irn,  and 

whales. 

Prince, 

eer  cap- 
at  tho 
fishery. 


ADVENTURES   OP   Mil.    WILLIAM    MAKINER. 


33 


Without  meeting  with  any  .accident,  the  crew  contrived 
to  take  eleven  whales.  Some  of  these  were  of  large 
size.  The  vessel  then  came  to  anchor  in  the  port  of 
Tola.  In  spite  of  the  success  of  the  privateer,  the  crew, 
apprehending  that  no  very  valuable  prizes  would  be 
taken  during  the  cruize  became  discontented,  and  there 
was  a  strong  disposition  to  mutiny  and  desert.  A  leak 
in  the  vessel  added  to  the  causes  of  apprehension. 

After  wooding  and  watering  the  ship  at  Tola,  »nd 
procuring  about  fourteen  bullocks,  six  pigs,  and  »  quan- 
tity of  fruit,  she  weighed  anchor  and  made  p*^1»  leaving 
the  prizes  behind,  after  having  stripped  them  of  their 
anchors,  cables,  sails,  &c.     Finding  the  leak  increase, 
she  proceeded  towards  the  islf^^d  of  Cocos,  to  careen. 
On  Friday,  the  14th  of  FeKuary,  1806,  at  sunset,  thia 
island  appeared  WJ  ^  twelve  leagues,  and  the  next 
day  she  came  to  f^  anchor  in  Chatham  Bay.     The 
water  casks  be>«g  sent  on  shore  to  fill,  they  began  to 
careen  the  p^ip-     On  running  the  guns  over  to  starboard, 
and  hee^^i'i^g  the  ship  four  strokes,  the  leak  was  found 
to  jvoceed  from  a  graving-piece  not  being  properly  se- 
erured  under  the  forechains.     The  copper  under  the 
larboard  bow  was  found  to  be  in  a  bad  state ;  it  was 
accordingly  stripped  off,  and  finch  board  was  used  for 
sheathing.     On  Tuesday,  the  18th,  the  principal  leaks 
were  considered  to  be  pretty  well  stopped,  and  the 
ship  was  therefore  righted.     After  wooding,  watering, 
and  painting,  she  weighed  anchor  on  the  25th,  and 
made  sail  towards  the  whaling  ground.     On  the  6th  of 
March,  having  made  Pan  de  Azucar,  which  bore  N. 
six  or  seven  leagues,  she  recommenced  her  whaling 
cruize,  but  which,  notwithstanding  the  most  diligent 


34 


l'i;UILO Va    A D V L.NTL UL'S. 


look  out  (luring  the  lapse  of  two  or  three  weeks,  was 
very  unsuccessful ;  and  lieiice  the  men  began  to  bo 
exceedingly  disconLcnted. 

On  the  30th  of  ^larch,  alio  captured  the  Spanish  brig 
Santa  Tsidora,  Captain  Josef  Evernzcga,  from  Guiatpiil, 
bound  to  Acapulco,  laden  with  cocoa.  The  Port  au 
Piince  now  kept  plying  to  windward,  keeping  a  good 
look  out  for  whales.  On  the  12th  of  May,  she  caught 
four  whales,  which,  together  with  what  had  been  caught 
before  at  sundry  times,  made  up  a  number  of  fifteen, 
being  il\o  whole  that  were  taken  during  the  voyage. 

The  labo-jf  and  peril  attendant  upon  the  capture  of 
these  monsterh  of  the  deep  had  not  been  anticipated 
by  the  crew,  ana  they  continued  to  murmur.  Tho 
privateer  now  proceedcl  northward  towards  the  coast 
of  California.  On  the  11  n.  of  August,  Captain  Duck, 
Mr.  Mariner's  constant  frienC,  died,  and  Mr.  Brown 
succeeded  to  the  command  of  the  vc^igel.  He  was  arbi- 
trary and  incompetent,  and  caused  ttu  discontent  of 
the  crew  to  show  itself  plainly.  lie  stct-.-ed  for  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  but  missing  Otaheite,  he  it^chorcd 
at  the  Tonga  Islands,  where  Captain  Cook  had  forni^rly 
visited.  On  the  evening  of  the  29th  of  November, 
1806,  a  number  of  Indian  chiefs  came  on  board,  with 
a  large  barbacued  hog  and  some  yams.  A  native  of 
Owyhee,  who  spoke  a  little  English,  came  with  the 
party. 

On  Monday,  the  first  December,  1806,  at  eight 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  natives  began  to  assemble 
on  board,  and  soon  increased  to  300  in  different  parts 
of  the  ship.  About  nine  o'clock  Tool  Tooi,  tho  Sand- 
wich islander,  before  mentioned,  who  had  endeavoured 
to  inspire  tho  ship's  company  with  a  good 


i 


s 


^ 


niion 


WHALE   ATTKMPTIXU    TO    ESCAPE. 


Ii  i 


ADVENTURES   OF   MR.    WILLIAM   MARINER. 


37 


the  friendly  disposition  of  the  natives,  came  on  board, 
and  invited  Mr.  Brown  to  go  on  shore  and  view  the 
country :  he  immediately  complied,  and  went  unarmed. 
About  half  an  hour  after  he  had  left  the  ship,  Mr. 
Mariner,  who  was  in  the  steerage,  went  to  the  hatch 
for  the  sake  of  the  light,  as  he  was  about  to  mend  a 
pen ;  looking  up,  he  saw  Mr.  Dixon  standing  on  a  gun, 
endeavouring  by  his  signs,  to  prevent  more  of  the 
natives  coming  on  board :  at  this  moment  he  heard  a 
loud  shout  from  the  Indians,  and  saw  one  of  them 
knock  Mr.  Dixon  down  with  a  club :  seeing  now  too 
clearly  what  was  the  matter,  he  turned  about  to  run 
towards  the  gun-room,  when  an  Indian  caught  hold  of 
him  by  the  hand :  he  luckily  escaped  from  his  grasp, 
ran  down  the  scuttle,  and  reached  the  gun-room,  where 
he  found  the  cooper :  but  considering  the  magazine  the 
safest  place,  they  ran  immediately  there ;  and  having 
consulted  what  was  best  to  be  done,  they  came  to  the 
resolution  of  blowing  up  the  vesse'  and,  like  Samson 
of  old,  to  sacrifice  themselves  and  their  enemies  together. 
Bent  upon  this  bold  and  heroic  enterprise,  Mr.  Mariner 
repaired  to  the  gun-room  to  procure  flint  and  steel,  but 
was  not  able  to  get  at  the  muskets  without  making  too 
much  noise,  for  the  arm-chest  lay  beneath  the  boarding- 
pikes,  which  had  carelessly  been  thrown  down  the  scut- 
tle the  preceding  evening:  the  noise  occasioned  by 
clearing  them  away,  as  the  uproar  above  began  to 
cease,  would  undoubtedly  have  attracted  the  notice  of 
the  Indians ;  he  therefore  returned  to  the  magazine, 
where  he  found  the  cooper  in  great  distress  from  the 
apprehension  of  his  impending  fate.  Mr.  Marine? 
next  proposed  that  they  should  go  at  once  upon  deck, 


38 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUllES. 


and  be  killed  quickly,  avIuIc  their  enemies  ■were  still  hot 
■with  slaughter,  rather  than  .by  greater  delay  subject 
themselves  to  the  cruelties  of  cooler  barbarity.  After 
some  hesitation,  the  cooper  consented  to  follow  if  Mr. 
Mariner  would  load  the  way.  The  latter  thereupon 
went  up  into  the  gun-room,  and  lifting  up  the  hatch  a 
little,  saAv  Tooi  Tool  and  Va-ca-ta-Bola  examining 
Captain  Duck's  sword  and  other  arms  that  were  in  his 
bed-place.  Their  backs  being  turned,  he  lifted  off'  the 
hatch  entirely,  and  jumped  up  into  the  cabin :  Tooi 
Tooi  instantly  turned  round,  Mr.  Mariner  presented 
his  hands  open,  to  signify  that  he  was  unarmed  and  at 
their  mercy :  he  then  uttered  aroghah !  (a  word  of 
friendly  salutation  among  the  Sandwich  islanders)  and 
asked  him  partly  in  English,  and  partly  in  his  own  lan- 
guage, if  he  meant  to  kill  him,  as  he  was  ready  to  meet 
his  fate.  Tooi  Tooi  replied  in  broken  English,  that  he 
should  not  be  hurt,  as  the  chiefs  were  already  in  pos- 
session of  the  ship,  but  that  he  wished  to  be  informed 
how  many  persons  there  were  below,  to  which  Mr. 
Mariner  ajiswered,  that  there  was  only  one,  and  then 
called  up  the  cooper,  who  had  not  followed  him  tho 
whole  way.  Tooi  Tooi  led  them  upon  deck  towards 
one  of  the  chiefs  who  had  the  direction  of  the  conspi- 
racy. The  first  object  that  struck  Mr.  Mariner's  sight, 
on  coming  upon  deck,  was  enough  to  thrill  the  stoutest 
heart :  there  sat  upon  the  companion  a  short  squab 
naked  figure,  of  about  fifty  years  of  age,  with  a  sea- 
man's jacket,  soaked  with  blood,  thrown  over  one 
shoulder,  on  the  otlier  rested  his  ironwood  club,  spat- 
tered with  blood  and  brains, — and  what  increased  the 
frightfulness  of  his  appearance  was  a  constant  blinking 
with  one  of  his  eyes,  and  a  horrible  convulsive  motion 


still  hot 
subject 
After 
r  if  Mr. 
creupon 
hatch  a 
amining 
L'e  in  his 
I  off  the 
a :   Tooi 
resented 
1  and  at 
ivord   of 
!ers)  and 
own  lan- 
to  meet 
that  he 
r  in  pos- 
formed 
ich  Mr. 
nd  then 
lim  the 
towards 
conspi- 
's  sight, 
stoutest 
squab 
a  sea- 
■,'er   one 
b,  spat- 
sed  the 
)linhing 
motion 


^.  vfc 


!"*'-ir. 


'.'>■'     ',•  ^r      ^'?'  ^   ■ 


' ,  -i^:  ■'^..-*' 


•'.^■". 


1 


ADVENTUlli:::!    <'F    JiK.    \V!iJ,IAM    MAUliNEK. 


41 


on  one  side  of  his  mouth.  On  anotlior  part  of  the  deck 
there  lay  twenty-two  bodies  perfectly  naked,  and  ar- 
ranged side  by  side  in  even  order.  They  were  so 
dreadfully  bruised  and  battered  about  the  head,  that 
only  two  or  three  of  them  could  be  recognized.  At 
this  time  a  man  had  just  counted  them,  and  was  report- 
ing the  number  to  the  chief,  who  sat  in  the  hammock- 
nettings  ;  immediately  after  which  they  began  to  throw 
them  overboard.  Mr.  Mariner  and  the  cooper  were 
now  brought  into  the  presence  of  the  chief,  who  looked 
at  them  awhile  and  smiled,  probably  on  account  of  their 
dirty  appearance.  Mr.  Mariner  was  then  given  in 
charge  to  a  petty  chief  to  be  taken  on  shore,  but  the 
cooper  was  detained  on  board. 

In  a  little  while  Mr.  Mariner  Avas  landed,  and  led  to 
the  most  northern  part  of  the  island,  a  place  called  Co- 
oolo,  where  he  saw,  without  being  much  affected  at  the 
sight,  the  cause  of  all  that  day's  tlisasters,  Mr.  Brown, 
the  whaling  master,  lying  dead  upon  the  beach :  the 
body  was  naked,  and  much  bruised  about  the  head  and 
chest.  They  asked  Mr.  Mariner,  by  words  and  signs, 
if  they  had  done  right  in  killing  him ; — as  he  returned 
them  no  answer,  one  of  them  lifted  up  his  club  to  knock 
out  his  brains,  but  was  prevented  by  a  superior  chief, 
who  ordered  them  to  take  their  prisoner  on  board  a 
large  sailing  canoe.  Whilst  here,  he  observed  upon  the 
beach  an  old  man,  whose  countenance  did  not  speak 
much  in  his  favour,  parading  up  and  down  with  a  large 
club  in  his  hand. 

Mr.  Mariner  Avas  completely  stripped  of  his  clothing, 
and  exposed  to  the  blistering  heat  of  the  sun.  Three 
others  of  the  crew  wore  found  dead  near  a  fire  where 

.4*- 


42 


PERILOUS    ADVENTURES. 


hogs  were  roasting.  Finow,  the  king  of  the  islanrls, 
took  a  fancy  to  Mr.  Mariner,  and  cared  for  him. 
Several  of  the  crew  were  preserved  to  assist  the  natives 
in  war.  The  ship  was  burned,  after  her  guns  and  some 
ammunition  were  conveyed  on  shore.  '  '    ' 

Mr.  Mariner  remained  at  the  Tonga  islands  for  four 
years,  during  which  time  he  underwent  many  hardships 
and  made  many  narrow  escapes  from  death.  Finow 
continued  to  be  his  friend  and  protector,  and  in  return 
for  favours  thus  shown,  the  young  Englishman  was  of 
much  service  to  the  natives  in  the  wars,  in  which  they 
were  almost  steadily  engaged.  Upon  the  death  of 
Finow,  his  ;  .a  succeeded  to  the  chieftainship.  At 
length,  when  Mr.  Mariner  had  almost  given  up  all  hope 
of  returning  to  England,  he  discovered  an  European 
vessel  while  on  a  fishing  excursion.  The  natives  re- 
fused to  take  him  on  board.  But  he  was  determined 
to  go,  and  after  he  had  wounded  one  of  them  and  threat- 
ened the  others,  they  complied  with  his  demand.  The 
vessel  proved  to  be  the  brig  Favourite,  Captain  Fisk, 
bound  for  China.  Mr.  Mariner  easily  obtained  a  pas- 
sage, and  contrived  to  get  two  of  his  friends  as  well  as 
the  journal  of  the  Port  au  Prince  brought  on  board. 
The  Favourite  then  sailed  for  China,  whence  Mr. 
Mariner  proceeded  in  another  ship  to  England.  Ilis 
relatives  and  friends  had  given  him  up  as  dead.  His 
parents  had  deceased.  His  early  trials  and  hardships 
had  effectually  cured  him  of  the  desire  of  wandering, 
and  he  now  settled  down  in  England.  A  journal  of 
his  adventures  and  a  description  of  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  natives  of  the  Tonga  islands,  among 
whom  he  had  so  long  resided,  were  afterwards  published, 
and  they  made  an  interesting  volume. 


slanrls, 
r  him. 
natives 
id  some 

■or  four 
irdships 
Finow 
I  return 
I  was  of 
ich  they 
oath  of 
lip.     At 
all  hope 
i'lropean 
|tives  re- 
ormined 
thrcat- 
.     The 
in  Fisk, 
d  a  pas- 
well  as 
n  board, 
nee   Mr. 
id.     His 
id.     His 
lardships 
ndering, 
urnal  of 
ners  and 
among 
ublished, 


(; 


;; 


-'-'f^- V;  :  • 


^■^■■'    .--  ■■■>■ 


i 


■ 


i   %^\ 


AN  ADVENTURE  UPON  THE  ROAD. 


ADVENTURE    UPON    THE    ROAD. 


HE  fo]lo^v^ng  curi- 
ous circuinstanco 
is  from  "  Nights 
at  Mess,"  pub- 
lished in  Black- 
wood's Maga- 
zine. About  thir- 
ty years  ago,  Mr. 
B.  having  at  that 
time  newly  com- 
menced business 
in  Edinburgh, 
was  returning  on 
horseback  from  the  city  to  a  cottage  he  had  near  Cra- 
mond.  It  was  a  wild  night  in  November,  and  though 
he  usually  took  the  seaside  as  the  shortest  way  home, 
he  resolved  this  evening,  on  account  of  the  increasing 
darkness,  to  keep  on  the  high-road.  When  he  had 
proceeded  about  thre  >  miles  from  the  town,  and  had 
come  to  tlie  loneliest  part  of  the  way,  he  was  suddenly 
arrested  by  a  man,  who  sprang  out  of  a  small  copse  at 
the  roadside,  and  seized  the  bridle  of  his  horse.  Mr. 
B.  was  a  man  of  great  calmness  and  resolution,  and 
asked  the  man  the  reason  of  his  behaviour,  without 
betraying  the  smallest  symptom  of  agitation.  Not  so 
the  assailant.  ■  He  held  the  bridle  in  his  hand,  but  Mr. 


I 


48 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


B.  remarked  that  it  trembled  excessively.  After  re- 
maining some  time,  as  if  irresolute  what  to  do,  and 
without  uttering  a  word,  he  let  go  his  hold  of  the  rein, 
and  said  in  a  trembling  voice, 

"  Pass  on,  sir,  pass  on  ;"  and  then  he  added,  "  thank 
heaven,  I  am  yet  free  from  crime." 

Mr.  B.  was  struck  with  the  manner  and  appearance 
of  the  man,  and  said,  "  I  fear  you  are  in  distress — is 
there  any  thing  in  which  a  stranger  can  assist  you  ?" 

"  Strangers  may,  perhaps,"  replied  the  man  in  a 
bitter  tone,  "for  nothing  is  to  be  hoped  from/n'ewc?8." 

"  You  speak,  I  hope,  under  some  momentary  feeling 
of  disappointment." 

"  Pass  on,  pass  on,"  he  said,  impatiently ;  "  I  have 
no  right  to  utter  my  complaints  to  you.  Go  home  and 
thank  the  Almighty  that  a  better  spirit  withheld  me 
from  my  first  intention  when  I  heard  you  approach — 
or  this  might  have  been" he  suddenly  paused. 

"  Stranger,"  said  Mr.  B.  in  a  tone  of  real  kindness, 
"  you  say  you  have  no  right  to  utter  your  complaints 
to  me ;  I  certainly  have  no  right  to  pry  into  your  con- 
cerns, but  I  am  interested,  I  confess,  by  your  manner 
and  appearance,  and  I  frankly  make  you  an  offer  of 
any  assistance  I  can  bestow." 

"  You  know  not,  sir,"  replied  the  stranger,  "  the 
person  to  whom  you  maKe  so  generous  a  proposal — a 
wretch  stained  with  vices — degraded  from  the  station 
he  once  held,  and  on  the  eve  of  becoming  a  robber" — 
*'ay,"  he  added,  with  a  shudder,  "perhaps  a  mur- 
derer." 

"I  care  not,  I  care  not  for  your  former  crimes — 


ai-vi:ntlke  ii'on  the  road. 


47 


sufficient  for  mo  that  you  repent  them — tell  me  wherein 
I  can  stand  your  friend?" 

"  For  myself,  I  am  careless,"  replied  the  man  ;  "  but 
there  is  one  who  looks  to  me  with  eyes  of  quiet  and 
still  unchanged  affection,  though  she  knows  that  I  have 
brought  her  from  a  home  of  comfort,  to  share  the  fate 
of  an  outcast  and  a  beggar ;  I  wished  for  her  sake,  to 
become  once  more  respectable,  to  leave  a  country  where 
I  am  known,  and  to  gain  character,  station,  and  wealth, 
to  all  which  she  is  so  justly  entitled,  in  a  foreign  land ; 
but  I  have  not  a  shilling  in  the  world."  Here  ho 
paused,  and  Mr.  B.  thought  he  saw  him  weep.  He 
drew  out  his  pocl;cfc  boolc,  and  unfolded  a  bank  bill ; 
he  put  it  into  the  man's  hand,  and  said,  "  Here  is  what 
I  hope  uill  ease  you  from  your  present  difficulties — it 
is  a  note  for  a  hundred  pounds."  The  man  started  as 
ho  received  the  paper,  and  said  in  a  low,  subdued  tone, 
"  I  will  not  attempt  to  thank  you  sir.  May  I  ask  your 
name  and  address  ?"  Mr.  B.  gave  him  what  he  re- 
quired. 

"Farewell,  sir,"  said  the  stranger.  "When  I  have 
expiated  my  faults  by  a  life  of  honesty  and  virtue,  I 
will  pray  for  you — till  then  I  dare  not." 

Saying  these  words  he  bounded  over  the  hedge  and 
disappeared.  Mr.  B.  rode  home,  wondering  at  the 
occurrence ;  and  he  has  often  said  since,  that  he  never 
derived  so  much  pleasure  from  a  hundred  pounds  in  his 
life.  He  related  the  adventure  to  several  of  his  friends ; 
but  as  they  were  not  all  endowed  with  the  same  gene- 
rosity of  spirit  as  himself,  he  was  rather  laughed  at 
for  his  simplicity ;  and  in  the  course  of  a  few  years  an 
increasing  and   very   prosperous  business   drove   the 


48 


i»i:i;!!.ni\-  .\i«VKN'niu;.<. 


Mil 


transaction  almost  entirely  tVoni  his  niiiul.  One  day, 
however,  about  twelve  years  after  the  adventure,  ho 
was  sitting  Avith  a  few  friends  after  dinner,  when  a  noto 
was  put  into  his  hands,  and  the  servant  told  him  that 
the  Lclth  carrier  had  broudit  a  hogshead  of  claret  into 
the  hall.  lie  opened  the  noto,  and  found  it  to  contain 
an  order  for  a  hundred  pounds,  with  interest  up  to  that 
time,  accompanied  with  the  strongest  expressions  of 
gratitude  for  the  service  done  to  tho  writer  long  ago. 
It  had  no  date ;  but  informed  him  that  he  was  happy, 
that  he  was  respected,  and  that  ho  was  admitted  part- 
ner of  one  of  the  first  mercantile  houses  in  the  city 
where  he  lived.  Every  year  the  same  present  was  con- 
tinued, always  accompanied  with  a  lett'^r.  Mr.  B., 
strange  to  say,  made  no  great  effort  to  discover  his 
correspondent.  The  wine,  as  I  have  good  reason  to 
know,  was  the  finest  that  could  bo  had,  for  many  a. 
good  magnum  of  it  have  I  drank  at  the  hospitable  table 
of  my  friend.  At  last  he  died,  and  the  secret  of  who 
the  mysterious  correspondent  might  bo,  seemed  in  a 
fair  way  of  dying  with  him.  But  my  story  is  not  yet 
done.  When  the  funeral  of  Mr.  B.  had  reached  the 
Greyfriar's  churchyard,  the  procession  was  joined  by  a 
gentleman,  who  got  out  of  a  very  elegant  carriage  at 
the  door  of  tlio  church.  He  was  a  tall,  handsome  man, 
about  forty-five  years  of  age,  dressed  in  the  deepest 
mourning.  There  were  no  armorial  bearings  on  the 
panel  of  his  carriage,  for  I  took  the  trouble  to  examine 
them  very  particularly  myself.  He  was  totally  un- 
known to  all  the  family;  and  after  tho  ceremony, 
during  which  he  appeared  to  be  greatly  affected,  he 
went  up  to  the  chief  mourner,  and  said, 


str 
tri 
at 
livi 


can 
in  I 
exci 
aliv 
of  1 
to  s 


ADVKNTURE   UI'uN   THE    ROAD. 


49 


"I  hope,  sir,  you  will  excuse  the  intrusion  of  a 
stranger,  but  I  could  not  refrain  from  paying  the  last 
tribute  of  respect  to  an  excelUnt  gentleman,  who  was 
at  one  time  more  my  benefactor  than  any  person 
living." 

Saying  this,  he  bowed,  stepped  quickly  into  his 
carriage,  and  disappeared.  Now,  this,  I  have  no  doubt 
in  my  mind,  was  the  very  individual  wh6  had  so  much 
excited  my  curiosity.  All  I  can  say  is,  if  he  is  still 
alive,  I  wish,  when  he  dies,  he  would  leave  me  his  cellar 
of  wine,  for  his  judgment  in  that  article,  I'll  be  bound 
to  say,  is  unimpeachable  and  sublime 


iage  at 


NOTES  OF  A  TRAVELLER  IN  TEXAS. 


HE  city  of  Antonio  de  Bexar, 
which  was  founded  more  than 
two  centuries  past,  occupies 
a  fertile  plain  on  the  west 
shore  of  the  Antonio  river, 
and  now,  oven  in  its  curtailed 
condition,  reaches  fully  a  mile 
along  that  beautiful  stream, 
which  in  width  extends,  per- 
haps, to  more  than  half  that 
distance.  It  seems  to  have 
been  regularly  laid  off  into 
streets,  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles,  with  an  oblong 

space  in  the  centre,  about  midway  of  which  stands  the 
cathedral  and  other  public  buildings,  dividing  it  into 
two  equal  divisions  of  some  eight  acres  each,  the  eastern 
being  denominated  the  civil,  and  the  western  the  mili- 
tary square.  Around  the  whole  extent  of  these  squares 
are  erected  a  continuous  wall  of  stone  houses,  which 
from  the  exterior,  with  their  rough  walls,  their  flat 
roofs,  and  their  port-holes,  resemble  nothing  but  an 
impregnable  fortification,  while  on  the  interior,  with 
their  plastered  fronts,  large  windows,  and  spacious 
corridors,  the}  present  at  once  an  appearance  of  com- 
fort, uniformity,  and  security.    The  other  buildings  are 


''I 
1 
i 


ft 

c 
c 

?•- 
ft 


ft 


AS. 

Bexar, 
re  than 
iccupiea 
le  west 
)  river, 
iirtailed 
Y  a  mile 
stream, 
(Is,  per- 
alf  that 
to  have 

if  into 
other  at 

ohlonc; 


mds  the 
it  into 
eastern 
he  mili- 
sqaares 
s,  -which 
leir  flat 
hut  an 
or,  with 
spacious 
of  com- 


ri 


m 


•      I 


ings  are 


' .  1  / 


NOTKH    OF    A   THAVHLT.ER    IN   TEXAS. 


68 


miserable  huts,  built  of  crooked  muskect-logs,  stuck 
endwise  into  the  ground,  the  crevices  filled  with  clay, 
Avithont  -windows,  with  dirt  floors,  and  generally  thatched 
with  prairie  grass  or  bull-rushes.  The  surface  of  the 
ground  being  level,  the  streets,  which  are  without  pave- 
ment, appear  to  have  been  prepared  by  the  hand  of 
nature  for  the  especial  purposes  to  which  they  have 
been  appropriated  by  man.  The  suburbs  on  the  east- 
ern bank  of  the  San  Antonio,  where  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  population  reside,  yield  to  the  curvatures 
of  the'  river  from  the  Alamo  to  the  full  extent  of  the 
citv. 

The  river  of  San  \i  n*=->,  which  is  formed  by  some 
half-dozen  springs  tL  t  r=  rst  uy»  within  a  smnll  com- 
pass, is,  perhaps,  one  of  the  oon]r'«t  and  purest  little 
rivers  on  the  vVmerican  contincni. 

Besides  afforfling  an  abundaiK-o  of  water  to  supply 
the  numerous  diverging  (litelies  for  initiation,  it  sweeps* 
on  with  a  bold  current,  and  with  its  flowery  banks  and 
its  meandering  channel  winding  gracefully  through  the 
city  may  be  considered  as  its  most  valiiablo  and  inter- 
esting ornament.  From  early  evening  till  the  hour  of 
midnight  the  inhabitants  flock  to  it  in  crowds,  for  the 
purpose  of  bathing,  and  then  the  foi  nis  of  hundreds  of 
young  and  beautiful  nymphs  may  be  seen  joyfully  gam- 
bolling amongst  its  limpid  waves.  It  is  by  no  means  an 
unusual  sight  to  behold  the  forms  of  three  or  four  young 
brunettes  come  dashing  down  the  current,  with  their 
dark  hair  floating  over  their  shoulders,  and  gliding  like 
dolphins  on  the  sea.  The  writer  describes  an  incident 
which  came  within  his  notice  during  his  visit  to  this 
beautiful  river.     He  says — "  As  I  stood  gazing  on  the 


54 


PERILOUS   ADViiXTUIlS. 


M 


various  forms  before  mo,  I  beheld  one  younger  and 
more  delicate,  rolling,  curvetting,  and  sporting  among 
the  waves,  whose  tapering  limbs  and  -well  formed  figure 
shone  amidst  the  sparkling  waters  like  alabaster  when 
exposed  to  the  sunlight.  She  was  the  only  female  of 
light  complexion  I  saw  in  San  Antonio,  and  as  sh( 
passed  her  flaxen  ringlets  fell  wantonly  about  her  white 
neck  and  half-developed  bosom.  She  seemed  artleae 
and  sinless  as  a  cluld  of  the  coral  caves  of  the  deep, 
deep  ocean — but  when  her  full  blue  eye  turned  up,  and 
its  glance  met,  in  Avild  surprise,  with  ours,  a  blush  of 
modest  consciousness  passed  over  her  check,  when  she 
darted  to  the  bottom  to  rise  no  more  till  distance  had 
deprived  us  of  the  powei's  of  di  elimination." 

The  population  of  San  Antoiio  is  divided  into  three 
classes.  Tlie  third  is  the  c()ni:!'Cting  link  between  the 
savages  and  the  Mexicans,  and  are  termed  llancheros, 
(or  liei'dsmen)  a  rude,  uncultivated,  fearless  race  of 
men,  who  spend  a  great  part  of  tlieir  Ives  on  the  saddle, 
herding  their  cattle  and  horses,  and  in  hunting  deer 
and  buffalo,  rir  pursuin<x  mustangs,  with  Avhicli  this 
country  so  fr,l!y  alorinls.  Uiujsed  to  omfort,  and 
regardless  alike  of  easu  and  danger,  they  have  a  hardy, 
brigand,  sun-burnt  appearance,  especially  when  seen 
with  a  broad,  slouched  hat,  a  red  or  striped  shirt,  deer- 
skin trowscrs,  and  Indian  moccasins. 

The  second  are  a  link  between  the  Mexican  and  the 
Spaniard,  or  Castilian,  and  are  somewhat  more  civi- 
lized, more  superstitious,  owing  to  the  influence  of  the 
prii-.^t,  an  !  Vv't  yifssscssed  of  less  bravery,  less  gene- 
rosity, and  far  less  energy  than  the  former.  They 
reside  in  the  city,  with  but  scanty  visible  means  of 


NOTES   OF   A    TllAVELliKR    IN    TEXAS. 


55 


I   this 

,  and 

ardy, 

seen 

deer- 


gene- 
Thev 


support,  and  without  the  least  effort  to  procure  the 
comforts  of  life ;  still  they  vegetate,  and  appear  to  be 
perfectly  independent  and  contented.  Their  usual  dress 
is  a  broad-brim  white  hat,  a  roundabout,  calico  shir'" 
and  wide  trowsers,  with  a  red  sash  or  girdle  around  the 
waist.  At  an  early  hour  of  the  day  they  go  to  mass, 
then  loiter  out  the  morning,  sleep  through  the  after- 
noon, and  spend  the  night  in  gaming,  dissipating,  and 
dancing — but  they  drink  but  little  liquor.  Almost 
entirely  uneducated,  completely  cut  off  from  all  inter- 
course with  the  world  (for  except  a  few  paths  and 
Indian  trails,  there  is  no  appearance  of  a  road  to  San 
Antonio,)  and  therefore  deprived  of  the  common  means 
of  intelligence — they  have  no  enterprise  or  public  zeal, 
no  curiosity,  but  little  patriotism — know  nothing  of 
government  and  laws,  and  seem  incapable  of  feeling 
themselves,  or  appreciating  in  others,  those  lofty  aspi- 
rations which  fire  the  brain,  warm  the  iieart,  nerve  the 
arm,  and  burn  in  the  bosom  of  a  free  man. 

With  apparent  good  nature,  and  much  awkward 
courtesy,  they  are  yet  treacherous  and  deceptive,  and 
can  no  more  stand  the  frank,  honest  gaze  of  a  real 
white  man  than  a  fox  can  the  eye  of  a  lion. 

The  wives  and  daughters  of  the  liancJieros  arc  as 
rough  and  uncouth  as  their  husbands  and  fathers,  and 
disdain  those  light  and  polite  amusements  that  generally 
amuse  their  sex.  But  the  females  of  the  second  class 
are  agreeable,  handsome,  and  fascinating — although 
not  particularly  accomplished.  They  dress  plain  and 
tastefully,  and  in  a  style  best  calculated  to  develope 
the  elegant  proportion  of  their  persons. 

Generally  poor,  they  of  course  wear  but  few  costly 


66 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURKS. 


,*^! 


jewels;  yet  with  much  good  sense  seem  to  consider 
their  own  natural  charms  as  the  richest  ornaments  that 
can  adorn  a  woman,  and  as  those  surest  to  attract  the 
notice  and  secure  the  attention  of  the  rougher  portion 
of  humanity. 

This  class  are  the  votaries  of  the  fandangoes,  for 
which  San  Antonio  is  so  juetly  celebrated. 

Nightly,  while  yet  fresh  and  buoyant  with  the  exhila- 
rating effects  of  a  siesta  and  bath,  they  flock  by  hun- 
dreds to  those  dirt  floor  saloons  which  are  the  scenes 
of  mirth  and  music. 

Conducted  with  much  decorum,  and  yet  without  such 
useless  restraints  as  announcements,  bows,  and  intro- 
ductions, the  fandangoes  were  well  calculated  to  afford 
rare  sport  for  a  company  of  young  volunteers  fresh 
from  the  United  States ;  and  so  omnipotent  was  their 
influence  over  the  ladies,  and  so  terrible  their  appear- 
ance with  pistols  and  bowie-knives  to  their  brown- 
skinned  neighbours,  that  the  arrival  of  a  single  platoon 
was  sufficient  to  clear  the  room  of  every  Mexican, 
except  a  few,  who  stood  around  as  silent  and  disinter- 
ested spectators.  The  English  lang'  ige  is  but  little 
spoken  at  San  Antonio,  and  not  much  Spanish  is  under- 
stood by  a  single  trooper. 

It  is  frequently  diverting  to  observe  the  sighs  and 
soft  glances  of  the  gentlemen,  and  the  smiles  of  recog- 
nition and  nods  of  assent  reciprocated  by  the  ladies — 
and  it  is  still  more  diverting  at  the  end  of  the  fandango, 
after  each  dancer  has  paid  the  iiddler,  and  treated  his 
partner  to  some  simple  beverage  prepared  for  the 
occasion,  to   see   them   pairing   ofi"  by   consent,  and 


NOTES    OF    A    'l'IlAVKLL!:i!    IN   TEX. A?. 


57 


ango, 
ed  his 
the 
and 


b.ii-oni.\jr    l^iough  not  sontitnctitally,  strikiiif^  off  by  the 
light  of  s  M  stars  to  every  qimrtcr  of  tlie  city. 

The  firrC  class,  now  reduced  to  a  limited  number,  is 
composed  of  the  direct  lineal  descendants  of  Sj  .ish 
dons  and  Cavtilian  nobles,  who,  though  stript  of  th 
titles  and  prwoj^atives  wliicli  they  enjoyed  under  a 
royal  governivont ;  yet  retain  their  dignity,  their  roy- 
alty, and  their  iT'n  tunes,  and  keeping  aloof  from  the 
two  degcneratt;  n.^u  f^ubordinate  classes  already  de- 
scribed, are  conio^.t  io  live  in  ease  and  aristocratic 
retirement.  \VI1JI9  a  hench  or  two,  a  mitato  for  grind- 
ing corn,  a  copper  ko;v1e,  an  earthen  jar,  and  a  few 
cow  liide^  :nid  INToxicni;  Vl.^nkets  spread  on  a  dii't  floor, 
with  a  yhelf  of  elolhes,  and  a  saddle  and  larictto,  are 
the  articles  of  furniture  usuiilly  found  in  the  thatched 
hovels  and  stone  huts  of  the  two  first  classes,  the  com- 
fortable dwellings  of  the  first  are  supplied  with  most  of 
the  comforts,  and  many  articles  of  taste  and  elegance. 

In  this  class  mny  be  found  gentlemen  of  education 
and  talents,  of  polished  manners,  and  refined  and  hos- 
pitable feelings  ;  and  if  the  females  in  the  second  class 
are  handsome  and  fascinating,  those  in  the  first  class 
are  splendid  and  irresistibly  captivating.  Having  been 
educated  either  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  the  United 
States,  or  Europe,  they  have,  "with  perhaps  u  very  few 
exceptions,  travelled  much,  seen  much  of  the  world — 
and  those  superlative  advantages  with  which  nature  has 
gifted  them,  have  been  cultivated,  cherished,  and  em- 
bellished, until  they  exceed  in  appearance,  and  equal 
in  capacity,  any  women  of  the  present  dny.  And  when 
collected  Avithin  the  luminous  walls  of  a  ball-room,  as 
they  were  the  evening  preceding  our  departure,  with 


58 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUUKS. 


graceful  figures  floating  with  elegance  and  dignified 
case  through  the  cotillion  and  waltz,  while  the  flashes 
from  beneath  the  long  drooping  lashes  of  their  dark 
eyes,  eclipsed  the  dazzling  lustre  of  the  diamonds  and 
costly  crescents  that  clustered  amongst  the  jet  black 
braids  of  their  hair,  the  belles  and  beauties  of  San 
Antonio  looked  like  a  band  of  houries  from  some  fabled 
land  of  the  East,  or  like  an  assemblage  of  young  prin- 
cesses of  some  romance. 

They  were  all  so  young,  so  lovely,  and  so  noble,  and 
yet  so  very  natural  and  unaffected — they  smiled  with 
such  exquisite  sweetness,  laughed  with  such  delight, 
their  voices  possessed  so  much  melody,  their  mien  was 
so  artless,  they  danced  so  divinely,  and  spoke  broken 
English  so  prettily,  that  more  than  a  dozen  of  our 
troopers  lost  their  hearts,  while  the  heads  of  one  or  two 
were  so  completely  turned,  that  they  have  looked  west- 
ward ever  since  our  return  to  America. 

This  city  has  been  the  theatre  of  so  many  skirmishes, 
and  so  many  revolutionary  scenes,  that  not  a  house 
has  escaped  the  indelible  evidences  of  strife.  The 
walls,  windows,  and  doors  on  all  sides,  are  perforated 
by  thousands  of  balls,  and  even  the  steeple  of  the 
venerable  church  was  penetrated  by  a  shot  from  the 
ordnance  of  the  Texians,  during  the  first  memorable 
action  in  December,  1835.  The  noted  spots  where  the 
lamented  Milam  fell,  where  the  fearless  Ward  lost  his 
leg,  and  where  the  intrepid  Beldin,  after  rushing  out 
to  spike  the  cannon,  was  deprived  of  an  eye  by  a  ball 
from  the  enemy,  were  all  pointed  out  to  me. 

The  traces  of  the  ditches  across  the  streets,  and 
along  which  they  advanced  from  house  to  house,  are 


NOTES  OF  A  TRAVELLER  IN  TEXAS. 


69 


3,  and 
le,  are 


yot  visible,  and  the  unrepaired  ■wall,  then  demolished 
by  their  hands,  yet  stands  the  proud  monument  of  their 
patriotism  and  their  prowess. 

We  next  visited  the  Alamo,  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
river,  and  opposite  the  northern  extremity  of  the  city. 
It  stood  in  ruins  as  it  was  left  by  the  Mexicans,  and 
was  occupied  by  a  few  hundred  soldiers,  and  as  many 
thousand  chattering  swallows,  forever  passing  in  and 
out  like  bees  around  a  hive. 

By  a  broad  archway  through  the  centre  of  a  fortress, 
which  fronts  the  south,  wo  entered  an  oblong  square 
of  some  twelve  acres  extent,  and  turning  obliquely  to 
the  left,  we  had  passed  all  but  the  last  of  a  long  row 
of  soldiers'  quarters,  which  form  a  part  of  the  western 
wall,  when  our  guide  exclaimed,  "  Here  perished  poor 
Crocket."  We  then  followed  along  the  wall  on  the 
north  and  east  until  we  came  to  an  edifice  of  great 
strength,  two  stories  high,  and  divided  by  thick  walls 
and  archways  with  many  apartments,  some  of  which 
are  in  good  repair  and  others  in  ruins.  This  building 
stands  detached  from  the  wall,  and  it  was  in  one  of  its 
rooms  that  Colonel  Bowie  was  murdered  while  confined 
to  his  bed  by  sickness.  Extending  from  its  southeast- 
ern corner  to  the  wall  in  the  rear,  is  seen  the  splendid 
ruins  of  the  cathedral,  a  building  of  beautiful  propor- 
tions, entered  by  a  large  ornamental  door  fronting  tho 
west,  on  either  side  of  which,  between  two  deeply  fluted 
stone  columns,  stands  a  figure  of  some  holy  saint,  exe- 
cuted and  finished  with  taste  that  would  do  credit  to 
some  of  the  best  European  sculptors.  The  roof  had 
fallen  in,  but  the  high  columns  and  part  of  the  archway 
remained,  and  the  cells  and  chambers  that  were  once 


60 


ri:i;ii,(:f,'  Ai>vi.i\Trui':s 


CUAPEL  OF   SAN   JO»E. 


the  aboile  of  priests  and  bishops,  were  CKeJ  \kh 
Canianclic  prisoiuM-s  and  mutinous  soldiers,  "W'hilo  ai 
armed  guard  stood  upon  the  rear  wall,  direct!^  i\x 
the  seat  of  the  holy  altar. 

AVithin  a  short  distance,  and  very  similar  in  appear 
ance  to  the  Alamo,  stands  the  mission  of  St.  Jose 
Here,  too,  the  hand  of  time  and  destruction  is  visible, 
yet  the  walls  and  the  numerous  edifices  are  more  per- 
fect, and  the  church  is  in  a  good  state  of  preservation, 
although  every  thing  about  them  is  touched  with  a  cast 
of  great  antiquity.  This  establishment,  with  its  towers 
and  steeples,  and  buttresses  and  spires,  reminds  the 
traveller  of  an  old  baronial  castle  in  the  feudal  times ; 


NOTES  or  A  'rjiAvi;iJ.i:ii  i.\  thxas. 


G1 


and  as  the  ilitcli  around  its  walls,  which  once  served  to 
irrigate  tlic  fields  around  it,  answers  for  the  "  deep 
moat,"  nothing  but  a  draw  bridge  across  the  San  Anto- 
nio is  wanted  to  complete  the  delusion. 

The  front  of  tlie  church  is  embellished  with  a  rich 
vine,  within  the  curvatures  of  which  are  hearts  and 
darts,  the  moon,  the  sun,  and  the  globe ;  then  there  are 
cherubim  and  seraphim,  with  trumpets  and  garlands, 
and  wii.h  mandates  in  their  hands,  who  seem  minister- 
ing to  the  wants  and  worshipping  around  the  wrouglit 
figures  of  St.  Ji;sr,  the  Virgin  Mary,  with  the  inlant 
in  her  arms.  The  whole  is  cut  in  stone,  and  stands 
out  boldly  from  the  wall.  Within  we  fo'^'id  remnants 
of  rich  tapestry,  fragments  of  images  and  crosses,  and 
very  natural-looking  figures  of  St.  Jose  and  Jesus,  Avith 
his  bandages  and  wreath  of  thorns,  as  he  was  seen  after 
he  Avas  taken  down  from  the  cross.  The  vase  for  the 
holy  water  is  chaste,  and  must  have  been  beautiful 
indeed.  Like  every  thing  else,  it  is  of  stone,  and 
represents  four  winged  angels  seated  on  a  rich  pedestal, 
and  bearing  in  their  hands  a  bowl  resembling  largo 
convex  leaves,  diverging  from  the  centre,  which,  with 
their  pointed  edges,  form  a  beautiful  brim.  Here 
again  were  the  evidences  of  warfare,  which  called  to 
mind  the  events  of  the  bloody  revolution  of  1835-G. 
On  every  side  Nature  had  been  bountiful  in  her  gifts — 
the  fertile  soil  still  freshened  by  irrigation,  and  the 
multiplicity  of  bright  flowers  and  fragant  shrubs  flash- 
ing among  the  waving  grass  like  the  rays  of  a  prism 
whenever  agitated  b}^  the  slightest  breath  of  wind. 

The  climate  was  pure,  the  air  sweet,  the  breeze  fresh, 
and  the  sunbeams  warm,  though  not  sickening — yet 


62 


IT.UII.OUrt    ADVEXTUKES. 


the  thousands  -who  once  lived  and  moved  and  were 
happy  upon  this  spot,  had  passed  away,  and  wihlnoss 
extended  from  the  missions  to  the  very  walls  of  the 
city.  It  was  then  wo  wished  for  the  genius,  the  fire, 
and  the  conception  of  a  Byron,  a  Scott,  or  a  Stephens, 
hat  we  might  give  vent  to  our  feelings,  and  portray 
the  beautiful  prospect  which  surrounded  us. 


UtZlCAN  MJJIXT££R8. 


« 


3 


FIGHT  BETWEEN  A  COBRA  DI  CAPELLO  AND  AN 
ICHNEUMON. 


SINGULAR  ENCOUNTER  WITH  A  COBRA 
»  DI  CAPELLO. 


---xj---^^  ^TjT^HE  cobra  di  capello  is 
HI  one  of  the  most  dead- 
ly serpents  found  in 
the  •warm  countries 
of  the  East.  The  lit- 
tle squirrel-like  ani- 
mal called  the  mun- 
goos,  or  ichneumon 
^  is  its  constant  enemy. 
A  British  traveller  in  India  was  wandering  on  foot  at 
night  through  a  desolate  part  of  the  country,  and  at 
length  overcome  with  fatigue,  threw  himself  down  on 
the  dry  spear-grass,  and  fell  asleep.  We  will  let  him 
tell  what  then  occurred  to  him. 

"  No  doubt  of  it !  I  slept  soundly,  sweetly — no  doubt 
of  it !  I  have  never  since  then  slept  in  the  open  air 
either  soundly  or  sweetly,  for  my  awaking  was  full  of 
horror !  Before  I  was  fully  awake,  however,  I  had  a 
strange  perception  of  danger,  which  tied  me  down  to 
the  earth,  warning  me  against  all  motion.  I  knew  that 
there  was  a  shadow  creeping  over  me,  beneath  which 
to  lie  in  dumb  inaction  was  the  wisest  resource.  I  felt 
that  my  lower  extremities  were  being  invaded  by  the 
heavy  coils  of  a  living  chain ;  but  as  if  a  providential 
opiate  had  been  infused  into  my  system,  preventing  all 


66 


PEUILOUri    ADVENTURES. 


H'i 


movement  of  thcw  or  sinew,  I  kne\Y  not  till  I  was  wide 
awake  that  an  enormous  serpent  covered  the  whole  of 
my  nether  limbs,  up  to  the  knees ! 

"'My  God!  I  am  lost!'  Avas  the  mental  exclama- 
tion I  made,  as  every  drop  of  blood  in  my  veins  seemed 
turned  to  ice ;  and  anon  I  shook  like  an  aspen  leaf, 
until  the  very  fear  that  my  sudden  palsy  might  rouse 
the  reptile,  occasioned  a  revulsion  of  feeling,  and  I 
again  lay  paralyzed. 

"  It  slept,  or  at  all  events  remained  stirless ;  and 
how  long  it  so  remained  I  know  not,  for  time  to  the 
fear-struck  is  as  the  ring  of  eternity.  All  at  once  the 
sky  cleared  up — the  moon  shone  out — the  stars  glanced 
over  me ;  I  could  see  them  all,  as  I  lay  stretched  on 
my  side,  one  hand  under  my  head,  whence  I  dared  not 
remove  it ;  neither  dared  I  look  downward  at  the  loath- 
some bed-fellow  which  my  evil  stars  had  sent  me. 

"  Unexpectedly  a  new  object  of  terror  supervened : 
a  curious  purring  sound  behind  me,  followed  by  two 
smart  taps  on  the  ground,  put  the  snake  on  the  alert, 
for  it  moved,  and  I  felt  that  it  was  crawling  upward 
to  my  breast.  At  that  moment,  when  I  was  almost 
maddened  by  insupportable  apprehension  into  starting 
up  to  meet,  perhaps,  certain  destruction,  something 
sprang  upon  my  shoulder — upon  the  reptile !  There 
was  a  shrill  cry  from  the  new  assailant,  a  loud,  appall- 
ng  hiss  from  the  serpent.  For  an  instant  I  could  feel 
them  wrestling,  as  it  were,  on  my  body ;  in  the  next, 
they  were  beside  me  on  the  turf;  in  another,  a  few 
paces  oflf,  struggling,  twisting  round  each  other,  fight- 
ing furiously,  I  beheld  them — a  mimgoos  or  ichneumon 
and  a  cohra  di  capello  ! 


I 


% 
% 


% 


ENCOUNTER  WITH  A  CO»RA  DI  CAPELLO. 


67 


"  I  started  up  ;  I  watched  that  most  singular  combat, 
for  all  was  now  clear  as  day.  I  saw  them  stand  aloof 
for  a  moment — the  deep,  venomous  fascination  of  the 
snaky  glance  powerless  against  the  keen,  quick,  rest- 
less orbs  of  its  opponent :  I.  saw  this  duel  of  the  eye 
exchange  once  more  for  closer  conflict :  I  saw  that  the 
mungoos  was  bitten ;  that  it  darted  away,  doubtless  in 
search  of  that  still  unknow^n  plant  whose  juices  are  ite 
alleged  antidote  against  snake-bite ;  that  it  returned 
with  fresh  vigour  to  the  attack  ;  and  then,  glad  sight ! 
I  saw  the  cobra  di  capcllo,  maimed  from  hooded  head 
to  scaly  tail,  fall  lifeless  from  its  hitherto  demi-erect 
position  with  a  baflled  hiss  ;  Avhile  the  wonderful  victor, 
indulging  itself  in  a  series  of  leaps  upon  the  body  of 
its  antagonist,  danced  and  bounded  about,  purring  and 
spitting  like  an  enraged  cat ! 

"Little  graceful  creature  !  I  have  ey^r  since  kept 
a  pet  mungoos — the  most  attached,  the  most  playful, 
and  the  most  frog-devouring  of  all  animals." 


meumon 


ERUPTION  OP  MOD.NT  VEBUVICS. 


TREME^^DOUS  ERUPTION  OF  MOUNT 
VESUVIUS. 


i 


IR  "William  Hamilton,  an  En^- 
^^  glish  traveller,  had  the  good 
fortune  in  1822  to  be  an  eye- 
■\vitnoss  of  one  of  the  grandest 
outbreaks  of  the  volcano  of  Vesuvius 
[^  on  record.  It  occurred  late  in  October. 
For  several  days  previous  a  rumbling 
noise  was  heard,  and  vivid  blue  streaks 
of  fire  shot  up  from  the  crater,  warning  the  people  of 
Naples  and  the  adjacent  country  of  their  danger. 
Terror  seized  upon  the  peasantry,  and  whole  villages 
wi.M'c  deserted. 

The  English  traveller  reached  Resina,  and  thence 
walked  up  the  mountain  to  the  hermitage  of  San  Salva- 


JNT 


an  Eng- 
ho  good 

an  eye- 
grandest 
Vesuvius 
3ctober. 
purabling 

streaks 
eople  of 

danger. 

villages 

I  thence 
n  Salva- 


TllEMENDOUS  ERUPTION  OP  MOUNT  VESUVIUS.      69 

• 

tore,  situated  on  a  flat  at  the  foot  of  the  terminating 
cone  in  which  is  the  great  crater.  Here  he  found 
several  of  his  country-people,  and  among  them  some 
ladies,  whose  anxiety  to  view  this  sublime  spectacle 
near  at  hand  had  overcome  their  fears.  From  the 
hermitage  he  advanced  nearer  to  the  cone,  and  then 
descended  into  a  hollow  through  Avhicli  the  great  river 
of  Iftva  was  flowing.  As  he  approached  it,  he  saw  it 
come  in  contact  with  a  fine  large  vineyard.  The  low, 
dried  vines  were  immediately  set  on  fire,  and  blazing 
all  over  in  an  instant,  the  destructive  clement  spread 
to  another  and  another  vineyard,  until  considerable 
mischief  was  done.  The  lava,  as  in  every  eruption  ho 
has  seen,  so  fur  from  being  rapid,  was  exceedingly 
slow  in  its  course,  flowing  only  a  few  feet  in  a  minute. 
At  this  time  it  seemed  tending  directly  to  the  unfortu- 
nate town  of  the  Torre  del  Greco,  which  it  threatened 
to  overwhelm ;  but  it  afterwards  turned  aside,  and 
following  another  hollow,  rolled  into  a  wide  and  deep 
chasm  of  the  mountain.  He  then  attempted  to  ascend 
by  the  side  of  this  burning  river  towards  the  cone ;  but 
its  heat,  which  set  fire  to  brushwood  and  little  trees  at 
several  feet  distance,  became  insupportable.  '  At  every 
throe  of  the  volcano  the  mountain  shook  beneath  his 
feet,  and  ho  was  already  so  near  that  the  lapilla  from 
the  crater  fell  upon  him  like  hail.  This  sort  of  ash,  which 
is  called  lapilla,  is  an  exceedingly  light  and  porous  sub- 
stance, resembling  pumice-stone ;  and  though  it  fell  so 
thickly  and  in  pieces  as  large  as  walnuts,  it  caused  little 
annoyance.  But  the  heat,  as  it  has  been  said,  was  in- 
supportable ;  and  as  the  fumes  of  the  sulphur  became 
Btill  more  so,  causing  a  most  disagreeable  sensation  of 


70 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


suffocation,  he  returned  to  the  hermitage.  .  In  a  short 
time  the  quantity  of  smolce  was  so  great  and  so  black 
that  it  obscured  the  lava  that  produced  it.  Nothing 
could  now  be  seen  distinctly  except  the  lightning  flash- 
ing through  a  pitchy  sky,  and  a  part  of  the  column  of 
fire  from  the  crater  looking  a  lurid  red.  The  noise, 
tremendous  even  as  far  off  as  Naples,  was  at  a  spot  so 
near  as  the  hermitage,  utterly  astounding.  It  should 
be  noticed  that  this  noise  was  produced  by  the  passage 
through  the  air  of  the  matter  which  the  volcano  ejected, 
and  then  the  fall  of  that  matter ;  for  the  forked  light- 
ning was  unaccompanied  by  thunder — it  only  played 
close  round  and  abovo  the  crater,  and  seemed  produced 
by  electric  fluid  issuing  thence,  and  to  depend  on  the 
dense  black  clouds  that  flanked  the  ascending  column 
of  fire.  ' 

The  violence  oi  this  eruption  Avas  little  abated  for 
two  days  and  nights,  Fortunately,  however,  the  lava, 
in  the  courses  it  too^c,  did  not  find  any  town  or  village 
to  destroy ;  and  the  lapilla  and  ashes  or  dust  that  fell 
in  almost  inconceivable  quantities  in  every  place  in  the 
neighbourhood  were  n  >t  difficult  to  remove,  and  indeed 
(that  being  the  rainy  season)  were  mainly  washed  away 
by  the  heavy  rains  shortly  after. 

When  the  smoke  cleared  away  from  the  mountain, 
which  it  did  not  for  many  days,  it  was  perceived  that 
the  eruption  had  carried  away  the  edges  or  lips  of  the 
crater,  and  materially  altered  the  shape,  and  lowered 
the  cone,  of  Vesuvius.  The  lava  by  this  time,  though 
its  outer  coating  had  cooled  to  such  a  degree  that  you 
could  walk  over  it,  still  burned  beneath ;  and  it  was 
many  days  more  before  what  had  been  rivers  of  liquid 


fir 

l0( 

wl 

j,n 

no 
hei 

S0( 

am 


TREMENDOUS  ERUPTION  OF  MOUNT  VESUVIUS.      71 


a  short 
io  black 
Nothing 
ig  flash- 
iumn  of 
le  noise, 
,  spot  SO 
t  sh#uld 
passage 
ejected, 
Dd  liglit- 
r  played 
)roduced 
I  on  the 
T  column 

ated  for 
le  lava, 
r  village 
that  fell 
e  in  the 
d  indeed 
ed  away 

lountain, 
ved  that 
)S  of  the 
lowered 
though 
that  you 
d  it  was 
of  liquid 


■» 


fire  became  cold.  Solid  ridges  were  then  seen,  of  what 
looked  like  hard,  black,  brittle  stone,  or  rather  like 
what  smiths  and  iron-founders  call  clinkers. 

The  main  stream  of  lava  was  about  fifty  feet  wide  on 
an  average.  It  ran  for  more  than  a  mile;  and  had 
not  the  eruption  ceased  and  stopped  at  its  fountain 
head,  even  in  the  direction  it  had  taken  it  would  have 
soon  destroyed  a  beautiful  district  between  Vesuvius 
and  the  sea. 


MAPOUTAN  COSTUMES. 


■■A"  ■-^i'i  ..,'  i. 


tUUa  BBVCI. 


ADVENTURES  OF  JAMES  BRUCE  IN 
AFRICA. 


.AMES  BRUCE  was  one 
of  the  most  daring  of 
modern  travellers.     Ho 
was    born   in    Stirling- 
Scotland,  on  "the  14th  of 
December,  1730.     In  his  earliest 
years  he  evinced  a  passion  for 
books  of  travel,  and  devoted  him- 
self to  acquiring  information  in 
*  regard  to  foreign  countries.     He 

possessed  great  energy  and  intelligence.  After  trav- 
elling all  over  Europe,  Bruce  received  the  appointment 
of  consul-general  at  Algiers,  with  new  incentives  to 
undertake   the    exploration    of  Africa.     He   reached 


ADVENTLKIiS  OF  JAMES  BllUCE  IN  AFIIICA. 


73 


one 
of 
He 
|ling- 
Ihof 
•liest 
for 
him- 
fn  in 
He 
;rav- 
lent 
3  to 
iched 


Africa  in  March,  1763.  After  a  short  stay  in  Algiers 
he  was  deprived  of  his  commission,  and  ho  then  resolved 
to  proceed  as  a  private  individual.  Mr.  Bruce  was 
well  fitted  for  this  daring  excursion.  He  was  six  feet 
four  inches  in  height,  and  possessed  great  muscular 
strength.  He  was  an  excellent  horseman  and  swimmer, 
and  a  wonderful  naarksman.  His  mind  was  vigorous 
and  fertile  in  resources. 

On  the  25th  of  August  Mr.  Bruce  sailed  for  Tunis, 
stopping  on  his  way  thither  at  Utica  and  Carthage,  the 
ruins  of  which  cities  he  stayed  some  time  to  examine, 
making  drawings  of  the  most  important  parts,  in  which 
he  was  assisted  by  a  young  Bolognese  artist,  whom  he 
had  brought  with  him  from  Italy.  In  one  of  his  incur- 
sions into  the  interior  of  the  country,  he  discovered 
Cirta,  the  capital  of  Syphax,  whence  he  returned  to 
Tunis,  and  started  thence  for  Tripoli,  by  way  of  Gabs 
and  Gerba.  On  entering  the  desert  which  borders  the 
latter  town,  he  was  attacked  by  the  Arabs,  and  com- 
pelled to  return  to  Tunis,  where  he  remained  till  August, 
1766,  when  he  crossed  the  desert  in  safety,  and  arrived 
at  Tripoli.  He  next  proceeded  across  the  Gulf  of 
Sydra  to  Bengazi  and  Ptolometa,  and  shortly  after- 
wards set  sail  for  Crete,  when  a  shipwreck  drove  him 
again  upon  the  African  shore,  with  the  loss  of  every 
thing  but  his  drawings  and  books,  which  he  had  fortu- 
nately despatched  from  Tripoli  to  Smyrna.  From 
Bengazi,  the  place  of  his  shipwreck,  and  where  he  was 
very  cruelly  treated,  he  escaped  by  a  French  vessel  to 
Canea,  where  he  was  detained  by  an  intermittent  fever 
till  the  end  of  April,  1767,  when  he  proceeded  by  way 
of  Rhodes  to  Sidon. 

7 


74 


PKi;ii,or 


AlJVi;.\T!I!i::= 


On  the  IGth  of  September  he  coinincueed  his  journey 
to  Balbcc,  which  he  reached  on  the  10th  of  the  same 
month;  avl  having  returned  to  Tripoli,  set  out  in  a 
few  weeks  for  Palmyra.  After  making  several  draw- 
ings, which,  as  well  as  those  of  Balbec,  he  aftcwarda 
presented  to  the  king,  he  ivavelled  along  the  coast  to 
La-takia,  Antioch,  and  Aleppo,  whcra  he  was  attacked 
by  a  fever,  from  Avhich  he  y'lih  great  di'Iiculty  reco- 
vered. About  this  time,  meditating  the  discovery  of 
the  source  of  the  Nile,  he  left  Aleppo  for  Alexandria, 
where  he  arrived  on  the  20th  of  June,  1768.  From 
hence  he  proceeded  by  land  to  Rosetta,  where  ho  em- 
barked on  the  Nile  for  Cairo.  •■ 

After  impressing  the  bey  of  the  city  with  an  idea  of 
his  skill  in  medicine  and  prophecy,  he  sailed  to  Syene, 
visiting  in  his  way  thither  the  ruins  of  Thebes ;  and 
on  the  16th  of  February,  1769,  set  out  from  Kenne 
through  the  Thcbaid  desert  to  Cosseir,  on  the  Red  Sea, 
and  from  thence  proceeded  to  Tor  and  Jidda,  where  he 
landed  on  the  oth  of  May.  After  waking  several  ex- 
cursions in  Arabia  Felix,  he  quitted  Loheia  on  the 
3d  of  September  for  Masuah;  where,  on  his  arrival, 
he  was  detained  for  some  Aveeks  by  the  treachery  and 
avarice  of  the  governor  of  that  place,  who  attempted 
to  murder  him  in  consequence  of  his  refusal  to  make 
him  an  enormous  present.  In  February,  1770,  htj 
entered  Gondar,  the  capital  of  Abyssinia,  the  ras  of 
which  city  appointed  him  gentleman-usher  of  the  king's 
bed-chamber,  commander  of  the  household  cavalry ,.and 
governor  of  a  province. 

On  the  27th  of  October,  after  having  taken  an  active 
part   in  the  councils  of  +hc   sovereign,   and  efteeted 


a 
o 

H 

te 

ta 
w 


BRUCE   AT   THE   SOURCE   OF  THE   NILE. 


Ai)Vi::;'i'n.i:,--.  i.,!'  JAMI:^^  buuce  in  Africa. 


79 


^fe=- 


Bcveral  cures  of  persons  about  the  court  attacked  with 
the  small-pox,  he  left  the  capital,  pnd  set  out  in  search 
of  the  source  of  tlie  Nile,  which  lie  discovered  at  Sac- 
cala,  on  the  14th  of  the  following  November.  The 
joy  he  felt  on  the  occasion  is  thus  described  by  himself: 
"  It  is  easier  to  guess  than  to  describe  the  situation  of 
my  mind  at  that  moment ;  standing  in  that  spot  which 
had  baffled  the  genius,  history,  and  inquiry  of  both 
ancients  and  moderns,  for  the  course  of  nearly  three 
thousand  years.  Kings  had  attempted  this  discovery 
at  the  head  of  armies,  and  each  expedition  was  distin- 
guished from  the  last  only  by  the  difference  of  the 
numbers  who  had  perished,  and  agreed  alone  in  the  dis- 
appointment which  had  uniformly,  and  without  excep- 
tion, followed  them  all.  Fame,  riches,  and  honour,  had 
been  held  out  for  a  series  of  ages  to  every  individual 
of  the  myriads  those  princes  commanded,  without 
having  produced  one  man  capable  of  gratifying  the  curi- 
osity of  his  sovereign,  or  wiping  off  the  stain  upon  the 
enterprise  and  abilities  of  mankind,  or  adding  this  de- 
sideratum for  the  encouragement  of  geography.  Though 
a  mere  private  Briton,  I  triumphed  here  in  my  own 
mind  over  kings  and  their  armies ;  and  every  com- 
parison was  leading  nearer  and  nearer  to  the  presump- 
tion, when  the  place  itself  where  I  stood,  the  object  of 
my  vainglory,  suggested  what  depressed  my  shortlii'od 
triumphs.  I  was  but  a  few  minutes  arrived  at  the 
sources  of  the  Nile,  through  numberless  dangers  and 
sufferings,  the  least  of  which  would  have  overwhelmed 
me,  but  for  the  continual  goodness  and  protection  of 
Providence  ;  I  was,  however,  then  but  half  through  my 


joui:ncy,  and  all 


those  dangers  which 


I  had  already 


\[ 


80 


I'HUILOUS    AbVIiNiUiiKt?. 


passed  awaited  me  again  on  my  return.  I  found  a 
despondency  gaining  ground  fast  upon  me,  and  blasting 
the  crown  of  laurels  I  had  too  rashly  woven  for  my- 
self." 

After  returning  to  Gondar,  our  traveller  found  much 
difficulty  in  obtaining  permission  to  proceed  on  his  way 
homeward ;  it  being  a  rule  with  the  inhabitants  never 
to  allow  a  stranger  to  quit  Abyssinia.  A  civil  war 
breaking  out  in  the  country  about  the  period  of  his 
intended  departure,  he  was  compelled  to  remain  in  it 
till  the  December  of  the  following  year,  and  took  part 
in  one  of  their  battles,  in  which  his  valiant  conduct  was 
such  that  the  king  presented  him  with  a  rich  suit  of 
apparel,  and  a  gold  chain  of  immense  value.  At  length, 
at  the  end  of  1771,  he  set  out  from  Gondar,  and  in  the 
February  of  the  following  year  arrived  at  Senaar,  where 
he  remained  two  months,  suffering  under  the  most  in- 
hospitable treatment,  and  deceived  in  his  supplies  of 
money,  which  compelled  him  to  sell  the  gold  chain  he 
had  been  presented  with.  He  then  proceeded  by 
Chiendi  and  Gooz  through  the  Nubian  desert,  and  on 
the  29th  of  November  reached  Assouan  on  the  Nile, 
after  a  most  dreadful  and  dangerous  journey,  in  the 
course  of  whiclifhe  lost  all  his  camels  and  baggage, 
and  twice  laid  himself  down  in  tlie  expectation  of  death. 
Having  procured,  however,  fresh  camels,  he  returned 
t )  the  desert  and  recovered  most  part  of  his  baggage, 
with  which,  on  the  10th  of  January,  he  arrived  at 
Cairo ;  where,  ingratiatii  ^  himself  with  the  bey,  he 
obtained  permission  for  English  commanders  to  bring 
their  vessels  and  merchandise  to  Suez,  as  well  as  to 
Jidda,  an  advantage  no  other  European  nation  had 


ADVENTURES  OP  JAMES  BRUCE  IN  AFRICA. 


81 


ind  a 
bsting 
r  my- 

much 
is  ■Nvay 
never 
il  war 
of  his 
I  in  it 
)k  par\, 
ict  was 
suit  of 
length, 
I  in  the 
•j  where 
aost  in- 
)lies  of 
hain  he 
.ed  hy 
and  on 
[le  Nile, 
in  the 


|aggagc, 
eath. 
leturned 
laggage, 
rived  at 
|bey,  he 
[o  bring 
111  as  to 
ion  had 


bftion  r  been  able  to  acquire.  In  the  beginning  of  March 
he  arrived  at  Alexandria,  whence  he  sailed  to  Mar- 
seilles ;  where  he  landed  about  the  end  of  the  month, 
suffering  under  great  agony  from  a  disease  called  the 
Guinea  worm,  which  totally  disabled  him  from  walking, 
and  had  nearly  proved  fatal  to  him  during  his  voyage. 
Notwithstanding,  however,  the  perils  he  underwent, 
and  the  barbarities  he  witnessed  duiing  his  travels,  and 
particularly  at  Abyssinia,  yet  even  that  country  he 
left  with  some  regret,  and  would  often  recall  with  a 
feeling  almost  of  tenderness  the  kindnesses  he  had 
received  there,  especially  from  the  ras's  wife,  Ozoro 
Esther,  between  himself  and  whom  a  very  affectionate 
intimacy  had  existed. 

Mr.  Bruce  published  a  narrative  of  his  adventures, 
which  was  not  credited  at  that  period ;  but  it  has  since 
been  substantially  confirmed. 


AURE8T  OF  LEDTABD. 


ADVENTURES  OF  JOHN  LEDYARD. 


R.  JOHN  LEDYARD  was 

born  about  1750,  at  Groton,  in 
Connecticut.  Ilis  boyhood 
-was  distinguished  for  adven- 
tures among  the  Indians  of 
America.  His  mind  and  body 
were  formed  for  great  achieve- 
ments. Fortitude,  courage  and  perseverance  were  his 
prominent  qualities.  His  activity  was  astonishing. 
After  making  a  tour  of  the  world  with  Captain  Cook, 
he  travelled  alone,  over  the  greater  part  of  Europe  and 
Asia. 

(82) 


bergh. 


ADVENTURES  OF  JOHN  LEDYARD. 


83 


Icliieve- 
[•ere  his 
usliing. 
Cook, 
)pe  and 


He  arrived  at  St.  Petersburgh  in  March,  1787,  with- 
out shoes  and  stockings,  which  he  was  unable  to  pur- 
chase. In  this  state,  however,  he  was  treated  with 
great  attention  by  the  Portuguese  ambassador,  who 
often  invited  him  to  dinner,  and  procured  him  an  ad- 
vance of  twenty  guineas  on  a  bill  drawn  on  Sir  Joseph 
Banks,  and  finally  obtained  him  permission  to  accom- 
pany a  convoy  of  provisions  to  Yakutz,  where  he  was 
recognized  and  kindly  received  by  Captain  Billings, 
whom  he  had  known  in  Cook's  vessel,  and  with  whom  he 
returned  to  Irkutsk. 

From  hence  he  proceeded  to  Ocsakow,  on  the  coast 
of  the  Kamschatkan  Sea,  whence  in  the  spring,  he 
intended  to  have  p.issed  over  to  that  peninsula,  and  to 
have  embarked  on  the  eastern  side  in  one  of  the  Russian 
vessels  trading  to  America ;  but  finding  the  navigation 
obstructed,  he  returned  to  Yakutz  to  await  the  termi- 
nation of  the  winter.  His  intentions,  however,  were 
suddenly  frustrated  by  the  arrival  of  an  order  from  the 
empress  for  his  arrest,  which  took  place  in  January, 
1788,  without  any  reason  being  assigned  for  such  a  pro- 
ceeding. He  was  deprived  of  his  papers,  placed  in  a 
sledge,  and  under  the  guard  of  two  Cossacks,  conducted 
through  the  deserts  of  Siberia  and  Tartary  to  the  fron- 
tiers of  Poland,  where  he  was  left,  covered  with  rags 
and  vermin,  and  prohibited  from  returning  to  Russia  on 
pain  of  death.  In  this  situation  he  set  out  for  Koenigs- 
bergh,  on  arriving  at  which  town  he  obtained  five 
guineas,  by  drawing  a  bill  in  the  same  manner  as  before, 
with  which  sum  he  proceeded  to  England. 

He  then  undertook,  in  the  service,  and  at  the  expense, 
of  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  a  voyage  to  Africa,  to  discover 


(    ' 


84 


PERILOUS    AJ;VK.NTUiiE3. 


TIIAVELLINQ   i.N    KU-^dlA. 


the  source  of  the  Niger,  lie  arrived  at  Alexandria  on 
ihe  5th  of  August,  1788,  and  on  the  19th  he  reached 
Cairo.  lie  then  set  about  exploring  the  ancient  monu- 
ments of  Europe,  and  engaged  in  making  preparations 
Tor  his  departure  for  Scnnaar,  when  he  was  seized  wita 
1  bilious  fever  which  terminated  his  adventurous  life. 
The  details  of  Mr.  Ledyard's  many  tours  have  never 
been  given  to  the  world ;  but  it  is  certain  that  for  hardi- 
hood he  has  never  been  surpassed. 

He  left  soine  manuscripts  behind  him,  which  were 
printed  in  London  a  few  years  after  his  death,  in  a 
work  called  jMemoirs  of  the  Society  instituted  for  the 
encouraging  Discoveries  in  the  Interior  of  Africa.  A 
work,  entitled  Voyages  de  ]MM.  Lcdyard  et  Lucas  en 


ADVKNTlJUr.S  OF  JOHN  LKUVAUl). 


85 


Iria  on 
cached 
monu- 
rations 
ed  ■wita 
us  life. 
e  never 
!•  hardi- 

ch  were 

h,  in  a 

for  the 

ica.     A 

ucas  en 


en  Afriquc,  suivis  (rcxlriiiis  iraii'i'os  V\jji\p;oii,  Avas  also 
printed  at  Paris  iu  180-i.  i\[r.  Lcdjavcl,  in  liis  jour- 
nal, evinces  gvoat  powei's  of  observation,  and  ;t.  sound 
judgment  and  undorslaudiug.  Some  idea  of  his  suffer- 
ings may  be  formed  in  i ending  the  following  extract: 
"I  have  known."  he  writes,  "both  hunger  and  naked- 
ness to  the  utmost  extremity  of  human  suffering.  I 
have  known  what  it  is  to  have  food  given  me  as  charity 
to  a  mad  man  ;  and  I  have  at  times  been  obliged  to 
shelter  myself  under  the  miseries  of  thai  character  to 
avoid  a  heavier  cahuln^y.  My  distresses  have  been 
grei'-tcr  than  I  have  cvvr  owtieil,  or  ever  will  own  to 
any  man.  Such  evils  are  (evrible  to  h(';;r;  but  they 
ttLver  yet  had  power  to  tiu'ii  me  from  my  pui-poso.  If 
I  live,  I  will  faitlifully  pcform  in  ils  iiUnost  extent  my 
engagements  to  the  Society;  and  if  1  pevi.'^h  in  the 
attempt,  my  honour  will  be  safe,  for  death  eancels  uU 
bonds." 


8 


MUNOO    PA:  X. 


ADVENTURES    OF    MUNGO    PARK. 


UNGO  PARK,  tlie  famous  travel- 
ler, Wiis  a  tiMtive  of  Fowlsliicls, 
Scotland,  and  was  born  Septeni- 
1  (.'r  10,  1771.  lie  was  educated 
for  the  medical  jjiofession,  and, 
at  an  early  af^e,  made  a  voyage  to 
Sumatra  as  a  surgeon. 
On  his  return  to  England,  hearing  that  the  African 
Association  was  desirous  of  engaging  a  person  to  re- 
place Major  Houghton,  who,  it  was  feared,  had  fallen 
a  p  ipi'iiirp  to  the  cause  of  discovery  in  Africa,  Park 
oH'cied  hid  sci'viceo,  uuJ  v,as  accepted.  He  left  Eng- 
land on  the  22nd  of  May,  1795,  and  after  a  pleasant 


ADVENTURES   OF   MUNGO   PARK. 


87 


gcto^ 

Vican 
;o  re- 
all  en 
Park 
Eng- 
asant 


voyage  reached  Jullifree,  on  the  river  Gambia.  After 
a  short  stay  at  this  place,  the  vessel  continued  her 
course  up  the  river  as  far  as  Jonkakonda,  where  she 
was  to  take  in  a  part  of  her  cargo.  Park,  therefore, 
disemharkcd,  and  having  a  letter  of  introduction  to  a 
European,  named  Laidlcy,  who  lived  at  Pisania,  six- 
teen miles  higher  up  the  river,  he  proceeded  thither. 
From  this  gentleman  he  received  the  greatest  attention, 
and  was  invited  to  remain  in  his  house  till  an  oppor- 
tunity offered  of  continuing  his  journey  into  the  inte- 
rior. „^^  .,, ,.  ,       ., ,  . 

While  waiting  the  occurrence  of  thw  opportunity, 
Piivk  sot  about  acquiring  all  the  information  he  could 
j)rocure  legardiiig  the  countries  wiiich  he  Avas  about  to 
visit.  lie  studied  also  the  Mandingo  language,  which 
is  in  gencrul  use  in  this  part  of  Africa.  In  the  midst 
of  tliese  labours,  however,  he  was  sci/.ed  with  fever, 
having  incautiously  exposed  hin  .olf  to  the  night  dew 
while  observing  an  eclipse  of  the  moon. 

Availing  himself  of  his  restoration  to  health,  and  the 
return  of  tiic  dry  seas(;n,  Park  now  resolved  to  set  out 
on  his  journey.  He  was  attended  by  a  negro  to  act  aa 
interpi-eter,  who  spoke  both  English  and  Mandingo, 
having  acquired  the  former  during  a  residence  in  Eng- 
land, and  a  boy-shivc  of  Dr.  Laidley's,  who,  in  order 
to  stimulate  him  to  behave  well,  Avas  promised  his  free- 
dom on  his  return,  in  case  Park  should  report  favour- 
ably of  his  conduct. 

Nothing  remarkable  occurred  till  our  traveller  arrived 
at  Fatteconda,  the  capital  of  Bondou,  where  he  had 
scarcely  arrived  before  he  was  sent  for  by  the  kmg, 
who  was  desirous  to  see  him.     As  Park  had  heard  that 


PERILOUS   ADVKNTIIIKS. 


this  monarch  nad  treated  Major  TToughton  -with  greji^ 
unkindness,  and  caused  him  to  be  plundered,  it  was 
not  without  a  feeling  of  appreliension  that  he  was 
ushered  into  his  presence.  He  found  him  seated  under 
a  tree,  and,  after  explaining  to  his  majesty  the  object 
of  his  journey,  ho  presented  him  with  a  quantity  of 
gunpowder,  some  tobacco,  and  an  umbrella.  With  the 
latter  article  he  was  particularly  delighted,  repeatedly 
furling  and  unfurling  it,  to  the  great  admiration  of  him- 
self and  his  attendants,  who  could  not  for  S(  mc  time 
understand  the  use  of  such  an  article. 

By  way  of  preserving  from  plunder  part  of  his  ward- 
robe, Park  dressed  himself  in  the  best  coat  which  it 
afforded.  This  article,  however,  ornamented  as  it  was 
with  yellow  gilt  buttons,  so  captivated  the  king's  fancy, 
that,  after  making  a  long  speech  on  the  liberality  of 
the  whites,  he  asked  our  traveller  to  make  him  a  pre- 
sent of  the  coat,  assuring  him  at  the  same  time  that 
he  would  wear  it  on  all  public  occasions,  and  inform 
every  one  who  saw  it  of  his  generous  conduct.  The 
request  of  an  African  prince  in  his  own  dominions, 
particularly  when  made  to  an  unprotected  stranger,  is 
little  short  of  a  command.  Park  knew  very  well  that 
if  the  king  did  not  obtain  the  object  of  his  wishes  by 
fair  means  he  would  do  so  by  force ;  he,  therefore,  at 
once  pulled  off  his  coat,  and  laid  it  at  the  monarch's 
feet. 

From  this  place  Park  proceeded  to  Joag,  the  frontier 
town  of  the  kingdom  of  Kajaaga,  and  during  the  night 
the  house  in  which  he  slept  was  surrounded  by  an 
armed  band  of  horsemen,  who  told  him  that  as  he 
had  entered  the  town  without  first  paying  the  customs. 


camp. 
After 


ADVEMIIRKS    UF    .MINUO    TARK. 


89 


or  giving  any  present  to  thej<ing,  according  to  the  laws 
of  the  country,  his  people,  cattle,  and  baggage  were 
forfeited;  that  they  had  orders  from  his  majesty  to 
take  him  to  Maana,  where  he  resided,  and  that,  if  he 
refused  to  accompany  them  peaceably,  they  must  bring 
him  by  force.  After  some  little  delay,  Park  replied 
that,  being  a  stranger,  unacquainted  with  the  customs 
of  their  country,  ho  had  infringed  their  laws  from  igno- 
rance, and  not  from  any  desire  to  violate  them,  and 
that  he  was  now  ready  to  pay  whatever  they  demanded. 
He  then  presented  them  with  some  pieces  of  gold,  but, 
not  content  with  this,  they  insisted  on  examining  his 
biiCjLrage,  from  which  they  helped  themselves  to  what- 
ever took  their  fancy.  In  short,  after  robbing  him  of 
half  his  goods,  they  left  him. 

On  his  .arrival  at  Kaarta,  our  traveller  found  that 
the  king  of  Bambarra  had  declared  war  against  the 
Kartans,  and  that  it  would  therefore  be  necessary  for 
him  to  proceed  thither  by  a  circuitous  route  through 
the  Moorish  kingdom  of  Ludamar.  Having,  therefore, 
procured  an  escort  from  the  king  of  Kaarta,  he  set  out 
for  Jarra.    >'-'•'-         "^     "  v       ,.    .  -    .  ,^ 

After  travelling  a  few  days,  exposed  to  great  suffer- 
ing from  the  heat  of  the  weather  and  the  scarcity  of 
water,  they  arrived  at  a  Negro  village  called  Samee, 
where  they  were  kindly  received,  and  Park  was  con- 
gratulating himself  that  he  was  now  out  of  reach  of  all 
danger  from  the  Moors,  when  a  party  suddenly  entered 
the  hut  where  he  was,  telling  him  they  had  come  by 
order  of  Ali  (the  Moorish  king,)  to  conduct  him  to  the 
camp.  He  was  therefore  forced  to  accompany  them. 
After  a  journey  of  four  or  five  days,  they  arrived  at 

8* 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sciences 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(71«)  872-4503 


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\    ■  .  "  ■     ■■^-   "     ■      "        ■  ■                      ,       "    "  .   '"■:\   .-    •,       ■■■'               .;,'-■"-■"-;."■'    r--    ■"■■  ^-         "■'■-■""-    '-■                                                                 , 

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^^ 

90 


PERILOUS    ADVFNTURES. 


PARK  AHS  THE  FB009. 


Benown,  where  All's  army  was  then  encamped.  Here 
Park  was  during  ten  weeks,  exposed  to  all  the  insults 
and  indignities  which  could  be  contrived  by  some  of  the 
rudest  savages  on  earth. 

We  have  not  space  to  detail  all  the  trials  and  suifer- 
ngs  of  Mr.  Park.  He  contrived  to  escape  from  the 
Moors,  but  nearly  starved  to  death  in  the  desert.  He 
also  suffered  dreadfully  from  thirst.  At  length  he 
found  some  pools  of  muddy  water,  where  he  quenched 
his  own  and  his  horse's  thirst.  At  these  pools  the 
frogs  were  so  numerous  that  Park  had  to  beat  them 


ADVENT UIIES   OF   MUNGO   I'AllK. 


91 


Here 

insults 
of  the 

sufFer- 

lom  the 

It.     He 

Igth  he 

lenched 

lols  the 

It  thein 


away  with  a  branch  befoi'o  his  horse  couhl  drink.  Con- 
tinuing his  journey,  Park  reached  tlic  miijestic  Niger. 
He  followed  this  river  towards  its  source,  meeting  with 
perils  of  every  description,  which,  in  a  short  time, 
obliged  him  to  return.  He  succeeded  in  reaching  Eng- 
land. Undaunted  by  the  dangers  he  knew  to  be  attend- 
ant upon  the  journey,  Park  once  more  set  out  to  dis- 
cover the  source  of  the  Niger.  He  was  attacked  by 
the  natives  of  Yaour  while  passing  up  the  river,  and 
seeing  no  chance  of  escape,  he  leaped  into  the  Niger 
and  perished.  This  was  a  fit  termination  of  a  career 
60  adventurous. 


ntfff^ 


AIUOiN  BUtraAHT. 


SWISS. 


M.  SIMOND  m  SWITZERLAND. 


N  all  the  Alpine  ranges  of  Switzerland, 
the  Tyrol,  and  Italy,  on  the  approach 
of  summer  the  peasants  lead  their 
herds  up  to  the  pasturages  on  the 
mountains.  These,  from  their  height, 
are  uuinhabitahle  during  the  winter 
and  early  spring  months.  They  are 
resorted  to  at  different  seasons,  according  to  their 


M.  SIMOND  IN  SWITZERLAND. 


93 


erland, 
)proach 
1  their 
on  the 
height, 
■winter 
ley  are 
their 


heights ;  and  some  of  them,  placed  at  an  elevation  of 
6000  or  7000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  affording 
food  for  the  cattle  but  for  a  short  period,  the  covering  of 
snow  not  disappearing  till  June,  and  winter  closing  in 
at  the  end  of  August,  or  beginning  of  September.  In 
these  Alpine  heights  are  built  log-huts,  called  chalets, 
in  which  the  herdsmen  and  their  cattle  are  sheltered. 
In  some  parts  of  the  higher  Alps  the  peasants  remain 
during  the  whole  season,  without  returning  more  than 
twice  or  thrice  to  fetch  up  a  scanty  supply  of  meal,  the 
remainder  of  their  food  being  the  milk  of  the  cattle  and 
the  cheese  made  in  the  ch&lets.  As  the  higher  grounds 
are  only  accessible  by  steep  and  winding  foot-paths,  the 
few  articles  of  food,  and  the  churn  and  pails  necessary 
for  the  preparation  of  the  cheese,  are  carried  up  on  the 
backs  of  the  herdsmen,  who  thus  pass  their  time  with 
their  cattle  in  entire  solitude.  Sometimes  a  single  man 
has  the  charge  of  ten  or  fifteen  cows,  and  remains  for 
ten  or  twelve  weeks  hung  up  amidst  pine-forests,  rocks, 
and  glaciers  of  ice,  without  seeing  a  human  being. 
Their  appearance  is  in  general  wretched  and  dull ;  and 
when  by  chance  a  wandering  traveller  visits  their 
haunts,  they  will  follow  him  for  miles,  in  order  to  ex- 
change with  him  a  few  words  of  conversation.  On  the 
approach  of  winter  they  return  with  the  cattle  and  the 
stock  of  cheese  that  has  been  made  in  the  mountains. 

The  following  extract  from  Mr.  Simond's  *  Travels  in 
Switzerland'  describes  one  of  these  mountain  ch&lets ; 
but  those  in  the  higher  mountains  are  far  more  dreary, 
and  possess  even  less  of  comfort  and  convenience. 

"  The  higher  ridge  of  the  Scheideck,  when  we  passed 
it,  was  crowded  with  cattle,  assembled  there  for  miles 


94 


rHi.ILOrS    ADVENTURES. 


to  avoid  the  flies,  vrbich  in  more  sheltered  situations 
torment  them  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  The  natural 
process  by  Avliich  soil  is  made  was  every  where  observ- 
able on  the  Eselsrlicken  (Ass's  Back),  where  tlie  un- 
covered edge  of  the  slate  is  so  far  decomposed  by  expo- 
sure to  weather,  that  large  fragments,  apparently  sound, 
crumbled  into  black  dust  under  our  feet.  This  dust, 
fertiUzed  by  the  cattle,  is  in  some  places  covered  with 
grass ;  in  others  it  is  washed  away  to  lower  grounds, 
leaving  the  surface  of  the  slate  again  exposed  to  the 
weather,  to  be  farther  decomposed. 

"  Some  way  beyond  this  ridge  we  came  to  a  chalet, 
which,  being  occupied  by  the  shepherds,  afforded  more 
conveniencies  than  our  halt  of  yesterday.  Here  a  fire 
was  already  blazing  in  a  sort  of  pit  or  trench  dug 
around  by  way  of  a  seat,  and  a  huge  kettle  hung  over 
for  the  purpose  of  cheese-making.  "We  had  plenty  of 
cream  furnished  us,  in  which  the  spoon  literally  stood 
on  end,  a  kettle  to  make  cofifee,  and  wooden  ladles  by 
way  of  cups.  All  the  utensils  were  made  of  maple,  of 
linden,  and  of  a  sort  of  odorous  pine  (pinus  cemhra\ 
by  the  shepherds  themselves,  who  bestow  much  time  on 
this  manufacture.  We  noticed  the  portable  seat  with 
a  single  leg,  oddly  strapped  to  th^;  back  of  those  who 
milk  the  cows ;  the  milk-pails,  the  milk-hod  fastened  to 
their  shoulders,  the  measures,  the  ladles  made  in  the 
shape  of  shells,  the  milk-strainer  (a  tripod  funnel  full 
of  pine  leaves),  the  vase  in  which  rennet  (used  to 
coagulate  milk)  is  preserved,  the  press,  the  form,  and 
many  other  implements  of  their  trade,  all  elegantly 
shaped,  and  very  clean. 

"  The  chalet  itself  was  an  American  log-house  of  the 


M.  SIMOND  IN  SWITZERLAND. 


95 


of  the 


rudest  construction ;  the  roof,  composed  of  clumsy 
shingles,  gave  vent  to  the  smoke  in  the  absence  of  a 
chimney ;  this  roof,  projecting  eight  or  ten  feet,  formed 
a  sort  of  piazza,  called  the  milkgang,  a  German  word, 
which,  like  many  others  in  that  language,  needs  no 
English  translation. 

"The  bed-room  of  the  shepherds  in  these  summer 
chalets  is  a  wooden  gallery,  hung  up  over  the  milkgang, 
close  to  the  projecting  roof;  they  go  up  to  it  by  a  lad- 
der, and  all  herd  together  on  a  little  straw,  never 
changed.  The  cows  come  home  to  be  milked,  attracted 
from  the  most  distant  pastures  by  a  handful  of  salt, 
which  the  shepherd  draws  out  of  a  leathern  pouch 
hanging  across  his  shoulder.  The  ground  round  the 
chalet  is  so  broken,  poached,  and  made  filthy  by  tread- 
ing of  cattle,  that  without  stepping-stones  it  would  be 
difficult  to  reach  the  door ;  to  finish  the  picture,  a  herd 
of  swine  ranges  about,  waiting  for  the  allotted  portion 
of  butter-milk  and  .  '.rds.  All  this  is,  no  doubt,  very 
difierent  from  llousseau's  charming  description  of  a 
chfiilet ;  but  the  chalets  about  Heloise's  residences  were 
family  dwellings,  inhabited  the  whole  year  round,  and 
such  as  are  found  on  lower  mountains  only ;  they  are 
kep^,  perfectly  clean  and  comfortable,  and  are  in  all 
respects  difierent  from  those  on  the  High  Alps,  con- 
structed for  mere  temporary  shelters  during  a  few 
months :  no  women  live  in  the  latter. 

"  When  the  weather  is  tempestuous,  the  shepherds, 
or  rather  the  herdsmen,  are  up  all  night  in  the  moun- 
tains with  their  cattle,  calling  to  them,  as  without  this 
precaution  they  might  take  fright,  run  into  dangers,  and 
be  lost.     A  few  places  of  shelter,  built  of  logs  on  the 


96 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


•-■1 


principal  pastures,  would,  it  seems,  answer  the  purpost 
better  with  less  trouble.     The  cattle  look  very  beautifii 
and  active,  full  of  spirit  and  wild  sport;  they  shoM 
much  more  curiosity  and  intelligence  than  the  rest  of 
their  kind,  and  often  follow  travellers  from  rocks  t( 
rocks  a  long  while,  merely  to  observe  them.     Bulls, 
notwithstanding   the  fierceness  of  their  looks,  nevei 
attack  any  body.     Mr.  Ramond,  in  his  notes  on  Coxe's 
Travels,  tells  an  interesting   story  concerning  these 
animals,  which,  if  it  should  happen  not  to  be  quite 
true,  at  least  deserves  to  be  so.     Speaking  of  their 
antipathy  for  bears — *It  is  impossible,'  he  says,  *to 
restrain  a  bull  when  he  scents  a  bear  in  the  neighbour- 
hood ;  he  comes  up  to  him,  and  a  running  fight  begins, 
which  often  lasts  for  several  days,  and  till  one  of  the 
two  is  killed.     In  a  plain  the  bear  has  the  advantage ; 
among  rocks  and  trees  the  bull.     (I  should  have  thought 
just  the  reverse.)     Once,  in  the  Canton  of  Uri,  a  bull 
went  in  pursuit  of  a  bear,  and  did  not  return ;  after 
searching  for  him  three  successive  days,  he  was  found 
motionless,  squeezing  against  a  rock  his  enemy,  which 
had  been  long  dead,  was  quite  stiff"  and  cold,  and  almost 
crushed  to  pieces  by  the  pressure ;  such  had  been  the 
efforts  of  the  bull,  that  his  feet  were  deep  sunk  into  the 
ground." 


,rpos( 
,utifuL 

est  of 
cks  tc 
Bulls, 
novel 
Coxe's 
these 
5  quite 
if  their 

ys,  'to 

ghbour- 
begins, 
e  of  the 
antage ; 
thought 
,  a  bull 
n ;  after 
as  found 
,  which 
almost 
)een  the 
into  the 


•1 


'Js;«r1Wiji*df^'vT     ffA',^'  if 


(1 


:/ 


.*■> 


?l^ 


CAVALIERO'S  ADVENTURES  IN  EGYPT. 


5^. 


!»l\  « 


I 


RANCESCO  CAVALIERO  accompa- 
nied Bonaparte  in  his  famous  expedition 
to  Egypt,  and  was  captured  by  the 
Arabs.  Upon  his  release  he  published 
an  account  of  his  travels  and  adventures 
while  in  captivity.  When  he  was  taken 
to  Cairo,  he  became  pipe-bearer  to  a 
Turkish  officer.  He  gives  the  following  account  of  his 
service : — 

"  Solyman  Aga,  my  new  master,  sent  for  me,  and 
gave  me  a  fan  made  of  ostrich  feathers  to  drive  the  flies 
from  him,  and  cool  him  at  meals.  There  were  five 
other  officers  beside  Solyman  Aga  that  messed  together, 
and  wlio  could  spoak  very  little  Arabic,  but  I  found 
their  manners  much  more  polite  and  genteel  than  any 
of  the  natives ;  they  were  also  cleanlier  both  in  their 
cooking  and  eating ;  using  spoons,  but  neither  knife 
nor  fork.  They  drink  nothing  but  water  with  their 
meals;  but  after  their  repast  they  retire  with  their 
companions  to  a  f;e]):irate  room,  and  there  indulge  in 
drinking  the  stron«ie8t  liquors,  but  never  take  any 
before  their  servants.  After  being  here  a  few  days, 
Solyman  sent  for  me,  saying  I  was  to  follow  him  on 
horseback  when  he  rode  out,  also  giving  me  the  care 
of  four  large  pipes,  the  stems  of  which 


100 


I'KUILOl'S    ADVF.XTlJUi:!-;. 


two  yards  and  a  luiH*  loii;.^,  and  liis  tobacco  bag.  With 
these  I  was  to  follow  him  either  on  horseback  or  on 
foot,  and  always  be  in  attendance  to  light  his  pipe  when 
he  wanted  it :  lie  also  named  me  Assan  Bendlcr,  not 
knowing  I  had  already  been  christened  Ragib  Achmet 
by  the  Arabs,  and  I  did  not  think  it  necessary  to 
acquaint  him.  lie  also  instructed  mo  in  the  Turkish 
prayers,  and  occasionally  sent  mc  to  the  bagnios,  or 
vapour  baths,  attended  by  two  soldiers  to  guard  me. 
It  is  hardly  credible  the  attention  they  pay  to  you  at 
these  baths :  first  they  undressed  me  in  a  room,  tying 
a  towel  round  my  middle,  then  led  me  to  the  inner 
room,  where  they  made  all  my  joints  snap  by  rubbing 
me  with  a  mohair-bag  about  the  size  of  a  man's  hand, 
which  takes  away  all  uncleanliness  from  perspiration ; 
then  washed  me  with  warm  and  afterwards  cold  water, 
covered  me  with  a  dry  cloth,  and  led  me  back  to  the 
first  room,  and  laid  me  upon  a  bed,  and  whilst  one 
person  was  wiping  my  body,  another  was  rubbing  my 
feet  with  a  pumice  stone ;  all  this  was  done  for  the 
trifling  sum  of  40  paras,  about  18d.  sterling.  I  found 
so  much  benefit  from  these  baths,  that  I  requested 
leave  to  go  to  them  twice  a  week,  which  my  master 
granted.  After  having  been  about  two  months  with 
him,  ho  wished  me  to  bo  dressed  in  the  Mameluke 
manner,  wliicli  was  a  much  lighter  dress  and  richer 
than  my  former;  he  also  gave  me  a  poniard,  which  I 
was  always  to  wear  when  I  went  out  with  him.  He 
told  1110  that  he  expected  soon  to  return  to  Constanti- 
nople, and  would  take  me  along  with  him.  I  was  very 
glad  to  hear  this,  as  I  was  in  hopes  when  I  arrived 
there  to  meet  with  some  Christian  minister  to  apply  to 


With 
:  or  on 
30  when 
Icr,  not 
Achmet 
isary  to 
Turkish 
;nios,  or 
,ard  mo. 
0  you  at 
m,  tying 
he  inner 
'  rubbing 
q's  hand, 
piration ; 
lid  water, 
ck  to  the 
hilst  one 
)bing  my 
e  for  the 
I  found 
requested 
ay  master 
nths  "with 
Mameluke 
,nd  richer 
a,  which  I 
him.     He 
Constanti- 
[  was  very 
I  arrived 
0  apply  to 


( 


SOLYMASr  AGA. 


CAVALlKllO  8  ADVENTUKliS  IN  EGYPT. 


103 


,v 


■^.%~ 


^ 


for  my  freedom.  Ho  wished  me  to  undergo  the  opera- 
tion of  circumcision,  as  he  said  no  one  could  be  a  good 
Musselman  without  it.  Showing  him  my  wounds,  and 
telling  him  they  were  very  painful,  but  that  at  a  future 
period  I  would  comply  with  his  request,  he  gave  me  to 
understand,  by  a  native,  that  if  I  re  sed  to  become  a 
Turk,  he  would  tie  me  in  a  bag  and  throw  me  into  the 
river  Nile.  This  gave  me  great  uneasiness,  as  I  thought 
to  myself  that  I  certainly  should  lose  my  life  if  I 'did 
not  comply  with  his  request.  I  therefore  prayed  to 
the  Almighty  to  be  merciful  to  me,  and  assist  me  in 
this  time  of  trial,  determining  within  myself  to  follow 
the  Christian  religion.  Solyman  Aga  said  nothing 
more  about  it  for  some  time ;  he  still  continued  to  take 
me  with  him  when  he  went  on  his  visits.  Sometimes 
he  had  parties  to  dinner ;  their  victuals  are  served  up 
in  large  copper  dishes,  tinned  inside;  they  use  no 
plates,  but  every  one  helps  himself  out  of  the  common 
dish  with  a  spoon,  and  they  have  but  two  or  three 
dishes  brought  in  at  a  time.  They  have  neither  table 
nor  table-cloth,  but  each  person  has  a  napkin.  A  piece 
of  leather  is  spread  on  the  floor,  which  they  all  set  upon 
with  their  legs  across,  and  the  morsels  that  occasionally 
drop  on  the  leather  are  taken  care,  of  and  given  to  the 
poor.  The  rooms  are  generally  spacious,  with  carpets 
at  the  extremities  of  them,  and  cushions  to  rest  them- 
selves upon.  The  only  ornaments  they  have  in  the 
rooms  are  warlike  instruments  of  different  descriptions 
hung  in  different  parts.  About  a  month  had  expired 
when  Solyman  Aga  sent  for  me,  and  claimed  the  per- 
formance of  my  promise :  not  knowing  any  probable 
mode  of  escaping,  I  consented,  but  with  considerable 


^ 


104 


PERILOUS  ADVENTUKES. 


apprehension,  which  displeased  him  very  much.  The 
operator  arrived  and  produced  his  instruments,  which 
totally  took  away  the  fear  of  death,  and  made  me  deter- 
mine to  object  to  the  operation.  This  refusal  put 
Solyman  Aga  into  a  violent  rage,  and  he  abused  me 
very  much  in  his  own  language,  ordering  me  to  strip 
off  the  clothes  he  had  given  me,  and  giving  me  a  suit 
much  inferior.  Now  once  more  I  found  myself  very 
unc(ftnfortably  situated;  having  lost  the  friendship  I 
had  gained,  the  whole  household  despised  me ;  as  they 
passed  me  they  made  signs,  giving  me  to  understand 
that  if  I  did  not  become  a  Mussulman,  I  should  have 
my  head  taken  off.  In  this  miserable  state  I  did  not 
remain  long,  the  Almighty  being  merciful  and  hearing 
my  prayers,  and  I  was  soon  delivered  from  the  hands 
of  those  Turks.  One  of  the  officers  belonging  to  Soly- 
man  Aga  being  taken  ill  of  a  disorder,  it  was  thought 
necessary  to  consult  a  European  doctor,  and  to  my 
gre?t  astonishment  I  recollected  him  to  have  been  in 
Bonaparte's  army.  I  approached  the  doctor,  and 
addressed  him  by  his  name,  but  he  had  no  recollection 
of  me.  I  told  him  my  name,  and  in  wh(  le  service  I 
had  been;  he  seemed  greatly  astonished,  as  he  had 
heard  Colonel  Broun^  say  many  times  that  I  had  been 
killed.  I  then  acquainted  him  how  I  came  in  my 
present  situation,  and  how  cruelly  they  had  used  me. 
He  then  asked  me  if  I  had  changed  my  religion ;  I 
replied  no,  but  that  I  expected  every  moment  to  be 
forced  to  do  so.  This  gentleman  filled  my  heart  with 
rapture,  saying  that  if  I  could  keep  myself  from  doing 
so  for  twenty-four  hours,  he  would  apply  to  the  grand 
vizier  for  my  liberty,  he  being  under  his  protection. 


and 


CAVALIEUO  S  AD\i;.\TL'lU:S  IN  EGYPT. 


106 


he 
Lch 
er- 
put 
me 
trip 
suit 
?ery 
ipl 
they 
,taud 
have 
a  not 
aring 
bands 
[Soly- 
ought 
,0  my 
een  in 
and 
lection 
Ivice  I 

lo  had 
been 

|in  my 

»d  me. 

;ion;  I 
to  be 

[rt  -with 
doing 
grand 

section. 


The  twenty-four  hours  had  not  expired  before  this 
humane  gentleman  came  with  a  Turkish  officer,  and  a 
letter  from  the  grand  vizier  for  Solyman  Aga.  After 
reading  the  contents,  and  finding  it  was  for  my  liberty, 
his  countenance  instantly  changed  with  a  sanguinary 
look  both  at  the  gentleman  and  myself.  I  expected 
every  moment  my  head  would  be  separated  from  my 
shoulders,  but  his  passion  by  degrees  subsided,  and  at 
length,  by  the  interference  of  the  officer  who  brought 
the  vizier's  letter,  he  consented  that  I  should  go,  but 
not  until  he  was  repaid  the  sum  he  had  given  for  me, 
which  the  gentleman  immediately  paid  to  Solyman 
Aga,  who  also  made  him  pay  for  the  clothes  I  had  on, 
after  which  the  Turkish  officer  took  my  hand  and  con- 
ducted me  to  this  gentleman's  house  in  safety,  when  I 
thought  myself  to  be  once  more  the  happiest  man  living. 
The  gentleman  made  me  take  oflF  the  Turkish  dress, 
and  gave  me  some  of  his  own.  I  then  related  to  him 
all  the  dangers  and  hardships  I  had  undergone  during 
the  fourteen  months  I  was  with  the  Arabs,  and  five 
months  with  the  Turks. 


A  WINTER  IN  THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS. 


R.  KING,  an  English  adven- 
turer in  the  region  at  the  ex- 
treme north  of  America,  thus 
speaks  of  his  wintry  experi- 
ence : — 

As  the  severe  weather  was 
by  this  time  over,  and  I  had 
seen  the  thermometer,  on  the  17th  of  January,  102° 
below  the  freezing-point,  had  slept  in  an  atmosphere 
of  82  below,  '  under  the  canopy  of  heaven,'  with  a  sin- 
gle blanket  for  a  covering,  and  had  had  some  experience 
in  snow-shoe  walkinnj,  I  mav  be  allowed  to  make  a  few 
remarks  upon  the  intensity  of  cold  in  the  inhospitable 
regions  of  the  north,  as  they  are  termed.  During  a 
calm,  whether  the  thermometer  stood  at  70°  or  7° 
minus  zero,  was  to  me  in  sensation  the  same ;  and 
although  I  have  experienced  a  difference  in  tomperuture 
of  80°  from  cold  to  heat,  and  vice  versa,  in  the  course 
of  twenty-four  hours,  still  its  change  was  not  sufficiently 
oppressive  to  put  a  stop  to  my  usual  avocations.  I 
have  been  shooting  grouse  at  every  range  of  the  ther- 
mometer from  the  highest  to  the  lowest  point,  wearing 
the  very  same  clothing  as  in  England  on  a  summer's  day,  ^i' 
a  fur  cap,  moccasins,  and  mittens  excepted,  instead  of  a 
hat,  tanned  leather  shoes  or  boots,  and  kid  gloves. 


3. 


idvcn- 
he  ex- 
i.  thus 


3Xper 


1- 


icr  "was 
[  I  had 

ospherc 
h  a  sin- 
jeriencc 
ce  a  few 
spitable 
uving  a 
or  7° 
lie;  and 
eriiturc 
le  course 
fficiently 
tions.     I 
lie  ther- 
wcaring 
er'sday,<^ 
tead  of  a 
d  gloves. 


0 


SCENE  IN  THE   ARCTIC   REGIONS. 


-1- 


\t 


*!*i-  --^ ,';  V:t:^5*A'i'itf.''-«W«<* 


....*- 


I 


'\l 


-i*-'. 


•'■••»•  «<~V^f'. 


<-^./ 


y^V'^.!.  ;  ^i^^l'-^-A  't^i*-» 


n- 


A  WINTKll  IN  Till-;  AHCTIC  ^EGIOXS. 


109 


Merely  a  cotton  shirt  was  sufKciont  to  protect  my 
breast  from  the  most  intense  cold  that  has  ever  been 
registered;  and  notwithstanding  my  waistcoats  wore 
made  double  breasted,  I  never  felt  sufficiently  cold  to 
be  under  the  necessity  of  buttoning  them ;  neither  flan- 
nel nor  leather  was  worn  by  me  in  any  way.  It  must 
be  understood,  however,  that  I  am  only  speaking  of 
the  temperature  during  a  calm,  or  when  the  atmosphere 
is  but  slightly  in  motion.  The  lowest  descent  of  the 
thermometer  would  not  pre  ent  my  making  an  excur- 
sion of  pleasure;  but  a  higher  temperature  by  40°, 
accompanying  a  stiff  breeze,  would  confine  me  to  the 
house:  the  sensation  of  cold,  as  I  have  said  before, 
depends  so  much  more  upon  the  force  of  the  wind  than 
upon  the  state  of  the  thermometer.  Such  endurance 
may  appear  incredible  to  those  persons  who  have  read 
each  ponderous  quarto  as  it  issued  forth,  fearful  in 
aspect  as  in  subject;  and  it  is  no  wonder.  I  was 
astonished  at  myself,  while  sporting  in  a  country  always 
portrayed  as  unfit  either  for  man  or  beast ;  but,  what 
was  my  astonishment,  when,  hopping  before  me  from 
bough  to  bough,  the  lesser  red-pole,  caught  my  sight, 
the  little  bird  that  so  frequently  adorns,  in  England, 
the  cottager's  room !  If  so  small  a  creature  can  find 
the  climates  of  England  and  Great  Slave  Lake  equally 
congenial  to  its  constitution,  surely  man  may  exist 
there.  A  sudden  transition  from  heat  to  cold  produced 
cramps ;  a  fact  well  worthy  the  notice  of  those  persons 
who  are  subject  to  that  painful  disease, — for  an  extra 
blanket  or  two,  and  a  trusty  thermometer  to  indicate 
when  to  put  them  on  and  pull  fhem  off,  may  save  much 
excruciating  pain  and  many  restless  nights. 

10 


0 


!iiii'l|i|ll!!ill|i!!l!,l. 


PEEILOUS  ASCENT  OF  ADAM'S  PEAK   IN 
^^^'■-  CEYLON.  ^^5  ■-•..>. 

UT  few    Eropeans  have  tad  the  courage 

and  perseverance  to  ascend  the  famous 

mountain  in  Ceylon  which  terminates 

S^cV^;r'^     in  Adam's  Peak.     Mr.  MarshaH,  who 

riiX^^Sj^     made  the  venture,  has  given  us  an  ac- 

^'^^^        count  of  the  ascent  in   ]iis   Tour   in 


^eVv-j 


►'•a^  V  t*^  u-^^Vtnr  .^i* 


^,,.., 


Ceylon. 

This  gentleman  pei'formed  the  fatiguing  journey  in 
1819,  accompanied  by  S.  Sawers,  Esq.,  Commissioner 


Jm. 


,1  'II 


:i.li 

■•tilliiilK 

liiilifi'j! 


.SIRI     III 


''ill 

mlm 
w 

'I  ri  I '  'I  >  'n'   I  ji  N  I 


:^h'Mi 


:i;     i    !i 


miMhiB: 


'I 


^.K  IN 


courage 
e  famous 
rrainates 
laH,  -who 
s  an  ac- 

Tour   in 

>urney  in 
nissioner 


w3 


^5 


o 

-< 


(1 


a 
di 

th 
in 
lo 
Oi 
bu 
tai 

.  of 
frc 

4  th( 


1 

i: 

1 

ii 

1 

i 
1 

'  of 
wit 
;  lay 
wh 
sha 
for: 
of 
pas 
vaj 
rosi 
ser 
ma| 
dec 
in 


mol 
an^ 


cht 
fticl 


I'KUILUL'.S  Aet'ilNT  Ut'  ADAM  S  PliAK  IN  CEYLON.   Ill 


•»f  llovenuo  in  the  Kandyan  provinces.  Starting  from 
the  city  of  Kandy,  and  proceeding  in  a  south-westerly 
direction  towards  the  mountain,  the  travellers  were 
three  days  in  performing  thirty-nine  miles,  so  rugged 
in  parts,  and  in  others  covered  with  forest  trees  and 
low  jungle,  was  the  country  which  they  had  to  traverse. 
On  the  third  day  they  saw  the  few  huts  of  the  natives, 
built  on  the  extreme  jagged  points  of  the  loftiest  moun- 
tains, to  escape  the  ravages  of  elephants.  At  the  end 
of  this  day's  journey  they  were  only  eighteen  miles 
from  the  foot  of  the  peak,  or  the  upper  cone,  yet  it  took 
them  two  days  to  perform  that  distance. 

On  the  fourth  day  there  was  a  considerable  degree 
of  ascent  in  thei»road,  and  they  found  the  trees  covered 
with  moss  or  lichen.  For  some  distance  their  pathway 
lay  along  the  ridge  of  a  narrow  hill,  on  each  side  of 
which  flowed  a  river.  "The  river,"  says  Mr.  Mar- 
shall, "  at  some  places  fell  over  stupendous  precipices, 
forming  cascades  of  great  magnitude.  From  the  height 
of  one  of  these  cascades  the  whole  mass  of  water  which 
passed  over  the  rock  seemed  to  rise  again  in  white 
vapour."  Above  and  beyond  these  impetuous  rivers 
rose  lofty  ranges  of  peaked  mountains,  the  whole  pre- 
senting one  of  those  magnificent  pictures  which  have 
made  men  of  good  taste,  who  have  travelled  in  Ceylon, 
declare  that  it  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  countries 
in  the  world. 

The  peak  has  always  been  considered  as  a  holy 
mount,  a  pilgrimage  to  which  was  highly  meritorious 
and  beneficial.  The  returning  pilgrims,  as  an  act  of 
charity,  always  disposed  of  their  walking  staves  on  the 
face  of  the  hill,  so  as  to  assist  future  travellers  in  their 


C 

0 
(1 


112 


PKlll LOUS   A 1) V KXT U U KS. 


ascent.  When  Mr.  Marshall  and  his  friend  came  to  a 
very  steep  part  of  the  road,  they  found  a  succession  of 
these  walking-sticks  stuck  firmly  in  the  earth,  and  bun- 
dles of  rods  '.r  id  horizontally  behind  them,  by  which 
means  tolerable  steps  were  formed.  As,  however,  pil- 
grimages by  the  road  by  which  they  came  had  almost 
ceased  since  the  dominion  of  the  English,  all  these 
conveniences  were  rapidly  going  to  decay. 

On  the  sixth  day  of  their  journey,  when  they  were 
four  hours  going  about  six  miles  (all  the  distance  they 
performed),  their  guides  were  frequently  at  a  loss  to 
distinguish  the  path  they  ought  to  follow,  from  the 
tracks  of  wild  elephants  through  the  jungle.  On  reach- 
ing the  top  of  a  very  high  hill  they  kad  a  near  view  of 
the  peak,  which  rose  before  them  like  an  immense  acu- 
minated, or  sharp-pointed  dome.  Whenever  the  natives, 
in  the  course  of  the  journey,  caught  a  glimpse  of  the 
holy  mount  (the  Mallua  Sri  Fade,  or  "  the  hill  of  the 
sacred  foot"  in  their  language),  they  raised  their  clasped 
hands  over  their  heads,  and  devoutly  exclaimed  "  Saa  ! 
Saa!'\  Their  zeal  had  increased  the  nearer  they  ap- 
proached, but  at  this  point  their  holy  fervour  was 
extreme. 

The  next  morning,  before  they  began  the  fatiguing 
ascent  of  the  peak,  they  came  to  a  small  river,  where 
the  natives  performed  the  ceremony  of  ablution  pre- 
paratory to  the  delivery  of  their  offerings  at  the  shrine 
of  the  holy  foot.  Their  offerings  chiefly  consisted  of  a 
few  small  copper  coins,  which  the  devotees  wrapped  in 
a  piece  of  cloth ;  the  cloth  was  then  wrapped  in  a  hand- 
kerchief that  encircled  their  head,  it  being  indispensable 


,?* 


f     IT* 


PERILOUS  ASCENT  OF  ADAM  S  PEAK  IN  CEYLON.  Ill 


that  the  offering  should  be  carried  on  the  head,  the 
noblest  portion  of  the  human  frame.  '«^ 

From  the  river  the  pathway  went  up  a  narrow, 
rugged  ravine, — in  the  wet  season  the  bed  of  a  torrent, 
and  impassable.  Thick  jungle  and  loftj  trees  threw  a 
wild  gloom  over  this  hollow,  and  intercepted  the  view. 
When  they  had  made  about  two-thirds  of  the  ascent 
they  were  informed  that  they  were  at  the  place  where 
those  who  professed  the  religion  of  Buddhoo  offered 
needles  and  thread  to  their  divinity.  The  Buddhists 
in  their  train  had  thought  little  of  this  singular  reli- 
gious duty,  for  there  was  only  one  needle,  with  a  little 
thread,  found  among  the  whole  party.  This,  however, 
they  made  do  duty  for  the  whole,  one  succeeding 
another  in  taking  up  the  needle  and  thread,  and  then 
replacing  it  on  a  small  rock  to  the  right  of  the  road. 

Their  way  was  now  more  difficult  than  ever,  as  the 
superior  portion  of  the  peak  consists  of  an  immense 
cone  of  granitic  rock,  bearing  no  trees,  and  but  very 
partially  covered  with  vegetation.  "  The  track,"  says 
Mr.  Marshall,  "over  several  places  of  this  cone  is 
quite  abrupt ;  and  where  the  pathway  leads  over  a  bare 
declivious  rock  (tending  to  some  fearful  precipice)  there 
are  steps  cut  out  in  the  stone,  and  iron  chains  so  fixed 
as  to  lie  along  the  steps,  for  the  purpose  of  assisting 
passengers  in  ascending  and  descending." 

Mr.  Marshall  and  his  companion  reached  the  top  of 
the  cone  about  two  hours  after  they  had  begun  to  ascend 
at  its  base.  They  found  that  its  narrow  apex,  which 
was  only  twenty-three  paces  long  by  eighteen  broad, 
was  surrounded  by  a  wall,  in  which  there  were  two 
tracks  by  which  alone  the  mountain  can  be  ascended. 

10* 


i 


114 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


The  el  atfon  of  this  apex  is  6800  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea ;  the  granitic  peak  or  cone  resting  upon  a 
very  high  mountain  belonging  to  the  chain  which  forms 
the  rampart  of  the  upper,  country.  Nearly  in  the 
centre  of  the  enclosed  area  they  saw  a  large  rock, 
one  side  of  which  is  shelving,  and  can  be  easily 
ascended.  On  the  top  of  this  mass,  which  is  of  granite 
there  stands  a  small  square  wooden  shed,  fastened  to 
the  rock,  as  also  to  the  outer  walls,  by  means  of  heavy 
chains.  This  security  is  necessary  to  prevent  the 
edifice  being  hurled  from  its  narrow  base  by  the  vio- 
lence of  the  winds.  The  roof  and  posts  of  this  little 
building,  which  is  used  to  cover  the  Sri  Pade,  or  holy 
foot-mark,  was  adorned  with  flowers  and  artificial 
figures  made  of  party  coloured  cloth.  The  impression 
in  the  rock  they  found  to  have  been  formed  in  part  by 
the  chisel  and  in  part  by  elevating  its  outer  border 
with  hard  mortar :  all  the  elevations  which  mark  the 
spaces  between  the  toes  of  the  foot  have  been  made  of 
lime  and  sand.  The  impression,  which  is  five  feet  and 
a  half  Jong,  two  feet  and  a  half  broad,  and  from  one 
and  a  half  to  two  inches  deep,  is  encircled  by  a  border 
of  gilded  copper  in  which  are  set  a  few  valueless  gems. 
To  use  Mr.  Marshall's  words,  "  According  to  the  books 
respecting  Buddhoo,  it  appears  that  he  stepped  from 
the  top  of  the  peak  to  the  kingdom  of  Siam.  The 
Buddhists  prof^oS  to  believe  that  the  impression  is  a 
mark  made  by  the  last  foot  of  Buddhoo  which  left 
Ceylon."  We  believe  it  was  the  Arabs,  who  traded 
here  in  very  early  ages,  that  first  changed  the  hero  of 
the  tale,  and  gave  the  foot-mark  to  Adam,  our  first 
father.  ^         .- 


sue 
be 


le  level 
upon  a 
1  forms 
in  the 
Q  rock, 

easily 
"•ranite 
ened  to 
>f  heavy 
ent  the 
the  vio- 
lis  little 
,  or  holy 
artificial 
ipression 

part  by 

border 
nai'k  the 
made  of 

feet  and 
from  one 
a  border 
3SS  gems, 
the  books 
Dcd  from 
m.     The 
ssion  is  a 
rhich  left 
10  traded 
e  hero  of 

our  first 


PERILOUS  ASCENT  OF  ADAM'S  PEAK  IN  CEYLON.  115 

On  Mr.  Marshall's  arriving  he  found  between  forty 
and  fifty  pilgrims,  who  had  ascended  in  an  opposite 
direction,  already  there.  They  performed  their  devotions 
without  heeding  the  strangers,  and  then  suddenly  de- 
parted, and  descended  the  mountain,  without  seeming 
to  look  to  the  right  or  to  the  left. 

On  a  shelf  on  the  same  rock  on  which  the  foot  is 
traced,  there  is  also  a  srasill  temple  dedicated  to  Vishnu, 
whom  the. pilgrims  conciliate  with  ofierings  of  small 
sums  of  money.  All  the  ceremonies  were  finished  in 
less  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  when  the  party  instantly 
proceeded  to  the  opening  in  the  wall,  and  left  the  area 
free  to  those  whose  next  turn  it  was. 

Two  Buddhist  priests  were  on  duty  to  take  charge  of 
the  ofl'erings  of  the  devout,  which  are  forwarded  at  the 
end  of  the  season  to  the  chief  priest  at  Kandy.  The 
average  annual  amount  is  about  £  250  sterling,  an  im- 
portant sum  for  that  people.  These  priests  only  reside 
in  this  lofty  solitude  during  the  period  when  pilgrims 
visit  it,  or  from  January  to  April  inclusive,  being  the 
dry  season  on  the  west  side  of  the  island.  During  the 
wet  months  the  peak  is  commonly  enveloped  in  clouds, 
and  the  ascent  to  it  impracticable.  They  were  attended 
by  a  boy,  and  occupied  a  little  hut  immediately  without 
the  encircling  Avails.  They  strenuously  objected  (as  did 
also  the  natives  who  had  accompanied  Mr.  Marshall 
and  his  friend)  to  the  English  travellers  remaining  there 
all  night,  saying  that  disease  and  other  calamities  would 
be  the  inevitable  consequence  of  their  so  doing.  Their 
motive  for  this  objection  rose  out  of  their  belief,  that 
such  a  long  stay  of  white  men  at  the  sacred  spot  would 
be  displeasing  to  their  divinities. 


0 


116 


I'KIU  LOUS    AI)\'KNTUrvES. 


I.'  ; 


Seeing,  liowcver,  that  the  travellers,  who  had  deter- 
mined to  staj,  would  not  be  moved  from  their  purpose, 
the  senior  priest  gave  them  a  number  of  plants,  soleranli^ 
assuring  them,  that  by  wearing  a  part  of  one  of  them 
as  an  amulet,  they  would  be  protected  from  the  attack 
of  bears.  In  like  manner  parts  of  other  plants  wero 
calculated  to  defend  them  from  wild  elephants ;  and 
others  from  devils,  sickness,  &c.,  &c.  One  herb  that 
he  offered,  he  said  was  a  sure  preservative  against 
misfortunes,  sickness,  and  every  kind  of  evil. 

The  travellers -descended  the  cone  by  the  opposite 
route  loading  to  Saifragam,  which  they  found  to  be  still 
more  abrupt  than  that  by  which  they  had  ascended 
coming  from  Kandy.  In  several  places  it  led  them 
across  bare,  slippei-y,  precipitous  rocks.  There  were 
no  steps  cut,  as  on  the  other  side  of  the  cone,  but  in 
the  more  difficult  and  dangerous  places  there  were 
strong  iron  chains  fastened  to  the  rock,  to  assist  ascent 
and  descent.  At  two  or  three  turns  the  vie>v  down- 
ward was  grand  and  awful  in  the  extreme,  the  cone  at 
these  points  seeming  to  overhang  the  lower  mountain, 
by  which  means  the  eye  plunged  perpendicularly  almost 
to  the  base  of  the  peak.  Meanwhile  the  sun  shining 
brightly  upon  the  space  where  the  view  terminated  at 
the  bottom  of  the  mountain,  increased  thereby  the 
sublimity  of  the  prospect.  "It  is  impossible,"  says 
Mr.  Marshall,  in  concluding  his  interesting  sketch  of 
this  remarkable  place,  "  to  describe  the  terrific  grandem 
of  the  scone ;  but  indeed  the  prospect  is  so  frightful, 
that  I  believe  it  is  rarely  contemplated  with  due  com 
posure."  ... 


■^ 

^ 


.   * 


tit!     AFriCAN  cmiF 


ADVENTURES   OF   ]^>UUCKIlAKi)T. 


tr-. 


OllN  LEWIS  BURCKIIARD1 
was  born  at  linusimnc,  in  Switz- 
erland, in  the  year  1784.  He 
came  to  England  in  1800,  and, 
being  provided  with  a  letter 
of  introduction  to  Sir  Joseph 
Banks,  who,  it  will  ho  recollected, 
was   the   means   f)f  introducing 


c 
0 


118 


PEKILOUS   ADVENTUllES. 


both  Ledyard  and  Park  to  the  African  Association,  he 
soon  imbibed  so  much  of  this  distinguished  man's 
ardour,  that  he  oiFcred  his  services  to  the  association, 
and  was  accepted. 

He,  accordingly,  began  diligently  to  study  the  Ara- 
oic  language ;  and,  as  it  was  thought  he  would  be  more 
likely  to  proceed  undisturbed  by  the  Moors,  from  whom 
we  have  seen  that  most  of  Park's  sufferings  proceeded, 
if  he  travelled  disguised  as  a  native  of  the  east,  the 
association  instructed  him  first  to  proceed  to  Syria, 
where  he  was  to  remain  two  years  for  the  purpose  of 
completing  his  Arabic  studies,  and  to  acquire  oriental 
habits  land  manners  sufficient  to  make  him  pass  unsus- 
pected by  the  Moors.  He  was  then  to  proceed  to 
Cairo,  to  join  one  of  the  car;! vans  which  leave  that 
town  for  Mourzuk,  and  thus  to  proceed  into  the  inte- 
rior of  Africa. 

Burckhardt  sailed  from  England  early  in  1809,  and 
arrived  at  Malta  in  safety.  Here  he  equipped  himself 
entirely  in  the  style  of  an  oriental,  assuming  the  clia- 
racter  of  an  Indian  Moliauimcdan  merchant,  and  sailed 
for  Acre,  whence  he  hi  ped  to  be  able  to  reach  Tripoli, 
in  Syria,  or  Latakia.  After  being  twice  duped  by  the 
captains  of  the  little  trading  vessels,  with  whom  ho 
engaged  a  passage,  by  their  telling  him,  when  he  was 
fairly  embarked,  that  they  were  not  going  to  the  place 
which  they  had  represented,  he  reached  the  coast  of 
Syria  at  Suedieh.  Having  bargained  with  the  mule- 
teers for  the  transpoit  of  himself  and  baggage  to 
A!(jt[)o,  he  was  bi-ginning  to  load  the  mules,  when  he 
received  a  message  from  the  aga  or  Turkish  governor 
of  the  place,   requesting  to  see  him.     Our  traveller 


^ 


f'-i 


Al>VE2<T'jllES   Oi'   LUKUKUAIIDT. 


119 


THE  AGA  AND  THE  POTATO. 


found  this  dignitary  smoking  his  pipe  in  a  miserable 
room,  and  pulling  off  his  slippers,  he  sat  down  before 
him.  After  having  partaken  of  a  cup  of  coffee,  Burck- 
hardt  asked  his  highness  what  he  wanted.  The  aga 
answered  by  making  a  sign  with  his  thumb  and  fore- 
finger, like  a  person  counting  money,  at  the  same  time 
inquiring  particularly  what  was  contained  in  the  chests 
of  which  our  traveller's  baggage  was  composed.  Burck- 
liardt,  who  had  among  them  several  packages  for  the 
British  consul  at  Aleppo,  told  him  that  he  did  not 
know,  but  that  be  thought  there  was  a  sort  of  Frank 
or  European  drink,  (beer,)  and  some  eatables,  which  he 
had  brought  from  Malta  for  the  consul.     Not  to  be 


(1 


120 


PERILULS   ADVENTURES. 


■l-l  i 


thus  eluded,  the  aga  sent  one  of  his  people  to  examine 
the  contents.  The  messenger  tasted  the  beer,  and 
found  it  abominably  bitter;  and  as  a  sample  of  the 
eatables,  he  carried  a  potato,  which  he  took  out  of  one 
of  the  barrels,  to  his  master.  The  aga  tasted  the 
raw  potato,  and  instantly  spitting  it  out  again,  ex- 
claimed loudly  against  the  Frank's  stomach,  which 
could  bear  such  food.  After  this  sample  he  did  not 
care  to  investigate  farther,  and  exacting  a  line  of  ten 
piastres,  he  allowed  Burckhardt  to  proceed. 

When  the  caravan  arrived  at  Antakia,  the  aga  of 
that  place,  suspecting  that  Burckhardt  was  only  a 
Frank  in  disguise,  sent  his  dragoman  to  try  and  dis- 
cover if  such  was  the  case.  After  putting  a  great 
many  questions,  all  of  which  Burckhardt  answered  so 
as  not  to  betray  his  secret,  the  emissary,  as  a  last 
resource,  took  hold  of  his  beard,  and  pulling  it,  asked 
him  familiarly  why  he  let  such  a  thing  grow.  To  pull 
his  beard  is  one  of  the  greatest  insults  that  can  be 
offered  to  a  Turk.  Burckhardt  at  once  "law  his  object, 
and  gave  the  poor  dragoman  such  a  blow  upon  the  face 
as  soon  convinced  him  that  the  insult  was  duly  appre- 
ciated, and  turned  the  laugh  of  the  bystanders  so  com- 
pletely against  him  that  he  aid  not  trouble  our  traveller 
any  farther.  . 

From  Aleppo,  Burckhardt  set  out  on  a  journey  to 
Palmyra,  under  the  guidance  and  protection  of  an  Arab 
shiekh  or  chief;  but  during  the  absence  of  the  latter, 
who  had  gone  to  one  of  the  wells  for  a  supply  of  water, 
the  party  was  attacked  by  a  hostile  tribe  of  Arabs,  and 
our  traveller  lost  his  watch  and  his  compass.  At  Pal- 
myra he  was  again  plundered,  and  his  guide  pretending 


1 

1 

■':'■ ,  ,•>'  ■  ■  ."■ ,' 

Eimiue 
,  and 

»f  the 

»f  one 

d  the 

1,  ex- 

which 

d  not 

)f  ten             ^ 

ga  of 

• 

nly  a 

i  dls- 

great 

ed  so 

^• 

I  last 

asked 

0  pull 

m  be 

bject, 

ifi 

-:•;':"  ■■;*:  "  :    ■  ■   ,  "  ■'''' 

3  face              ' 

■  ■'•  -      /   ■  ,  /:'■■■■  ''■•"' 

■i-    ■■ 

ppre-             j 

com- 
veller 

•  •'^ ■■'-.'?  :.* 

ey  to 

Arab 

•'''  ^  " 

atter, 

•    • 

rater. 

if..*.- 

,and 

■1,  , 

Pal- 

••  • 

ADVENTUKES   01'    BUllCKlIAllDT. 


123 


that  it  was  unsafe  to 


this  direction, 


H 


^  rocectl  far  til  or  ii 
he  now  directed  his  steps  to  Damascus. 

At  this  city  he  was  obliged  to  remain  upwards  of  six 
weeks,  in  consequence  of  the  disturbed  state  of  the 
country.  He  contrived,  however,  to  accomplish  two 
journeys  to  places  of  celebrity — one  to  Baalbec  and 
Mount  Libanus,  and  the  other  into  the  Ilauraii,  the 
patrimony  of  the  patriarch  Abraham.  The  latter  jour- 
ney occupied  him  twenty-six  days  ;  but  the  fatigue  to 
which  he  was  exposed  was  amply  repaid  by  the  inter- 
esting scenes  amidst  which  it  was  accomplished.  At 
every  step  he  discovered  vestiges  of  ancient  cities,  the 
remains  of  ruined  temples  and  other  public  edifices ; 
and  had  opportunities  of  copying  many  inscriptions, 
which  serve  to  throw  light  upon  the  history  of  this,  at 
that  time,  almost  unknown  country. 

Burckhardt  then  proceeded  to  Aleppo,  whence  he 
penetrated  into  the  desert  towards  the  Euphrates.  In 
this  excursion  he  was  robbed  and  stripped  to  the  skin, 
BO  that  he  had  to  return  to  oukhne,  a  village  almost 
five  days'  journey  from  Aleppo,  his  body  blistered  by 
the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  without  having  accomplished 
any  of  the  objects  of  his  journey.  -^  _^ 

With  the  true  spirit  of  an  enterprising  traveller, 
Burckhardt,  as  soon  as  the  rainy  season  was  over, 
again  set  out  towards  the  Dead  Sea.  On  this  journey 
he  encountered  many  difficulties — was  stripped  of  his 
money  by  a  treacherous  Bedouin,  to  whose  care  he 
confided  himself;  and  was  at  length  obliged  to  wander 
from  one  Arab  encampment  to  another,  till  he  at  last 
found  a  person  who  was  willing  to  carry  him  to  Egypt. 
As  they  proceeded  up  the  valley  of  Ghor,  Burckhardt 


c 

0 
0 


124 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


;i: 


ff) 


It 


was  fortunate  enough  to  discover  the  ruins  of  Petra, 
the  capital  of  Arabia  Petraeia,  a  spot  till  then  unknown 
to  Europeans.  His  conductor,  however,  allowed  him 
merely  a  glance  at  these  majestic  ruins,  whose  magnifi- 
cence have  since  astonished  more  recent  beholders. 
Shortly  after  leaving  this  place  they  fell  in  with  a 
small  caravan  of  Arabs,  who  were  proceeding  to  Cairo 
with  a  few  camels  for  sale.  To  this  party  Burckhardt 
joined  himself,  and  travelled  the  remainder  of  the  way 
in  their  company. 

As  no  immediate  opportunity  offered  for  entering  on 
the  great  object  of  his  mission,  Burckhardt  next  turned 
his  attention  to  Nubia.  He  purchased  a  couple  of  drome-* 
daries,  and  furnishing  himself  with  a  firman  from  the 
bashaw,  and  several  private  letters  to  the  Nubian 
chiefs,  he  set  out,  accompanied  by  his  guide,  on  the 
14th  of  February,  1813. 

He  travelled  along  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Nile,  and 
proceeded,  not  only  without  molestation,  but,  on  the 
contrary,  was  generally  received  in  a  hospitable  man- 
ner at  the  Nubian  villages. 

Burckhardt  continued  his  course  without  any  remark- 
able adventure  till  he  arrived  at  the  Manass  territory, 
where  he  found  two  of  the  principal  Mameluke  chiefs, 
with  a  band  of  retainers,  amounting  to  about  a  hundred 
and  twenty  men,  engaged  in  celebrating  the  capture 
of  the  castle  of  Tinareh,  which  had  surrendered  on  the 
day  preceding  our  traveller's  arrival. 

Suspecting  that  Burckhardt  was  a  spy  in  the  pay  of 
Mohammed  Ali,  the  bashaw  of  Egypt,  the  chief  threat- 
ened to  send  his  head  as  a  present  to  Ibrahim  Beg,  the 
chief  of  the  Mamelukes ;  and  a  long  consultation  was 


ADVENTURES   OF   BUUCKIIARDT. 


125 


held  with  his  confidants  to  decide  what  was  to  be  done 
with  him.  Fortunately,  before  they  decided  on  such 
an  unpleasant  experiment  as  the  language  of  the  chief 
seemed  to  threaten,  the  arrival  of  two  of  their  friends, 
who  had  seen  Burckhardt  in  another  part  of  the  coun- 
try convinced  them  of  their  error.  They  were  still 
anxious,  however,  to  extort  something  from  him  in  the 
way  of  presents  or  otherwise ;  and  when  he  went  to 
take  \i\a  leave  of  Mohammed  Kashef,  he  persisted  so 
much  m  desiring  him  to  defer  his  departure,  that  our 
traveller  at  last  found  it  necessary  to  tell  him  that  he 
was  not  permitted  to  act  as  he  pleased,  he  considered 
himself  a  prisoner,  and  that  he  must  take  the  conse- 
quence of  his  detention.  "  Go  then,  you  rascal !"  at 
last  exclaimed  this  refined  chieftain,  in  his  usual  brutal 
language.  Burckhardt  did  not  require  to  be  twice 
told.  In  five  minutes  he  had  mounted  his  camel  and 
was  out  of  sight  of  the  camp,  where  he  had  spent 
one  of  the  most  uncomfortable  days  which  had  yet 
occurred  to  him  during  the  course  of  his  travels. 

They  had  now  arrived  at  Derr,  and  here  his  trusty 
guide,  who  had  accompanied  him  on  this  journey,  left 
him.  At  parting  Burckhardt  presented  him  with  a 
woolen  mellaye,  a  sort  of  shawl  which  is  worn  about 
the  neck  and  shoulders  by  the  Egyptians,  and  a  small 
sum  of  money,  with  which  he  was  infinitely  delighted. 

Having  provided  himself  with  a  n^w  guide,  our  travel- 
ler continued  his  journey,  visiting  such  remains  of  anti- 
quity as  lay  in  his  route :  copying  the  inscriptions  in  the 
ruined  temples,  and  gathering  much  new  and  interest- 
ing information  regarding  the  details  of  these  buildings, 
and  the  history  and  manners  of  the  ancient  inhabitants. 

11* 


C 

0 

0 


120 


PKIUI.OUS   ADVKNTURES. 


% 


On  the  9th  of  April  he  ronchcd  Eano,  where  he  re 
malncd  nearly  twelve  months,  waiting  for  the  opportu- 
nity of  joining  a  caravan  travelling  towards  the  interior 
of  Nubia  in  a  more  easterly  direction. 

Two  days  after  their  departure,  the  caravan  was 
attacked  by  a  party  of  wandering  Bedouins,  who 
claimed  tribute  for  allowing  it  to  pass.  After  much 
clamour  and  some  hard  fighting,  in  which,  however,  no 
blood  was  shed,  the  chiefs  interfered  on  both  sides,  and 
put  an  end  to  the  dispute,  and  the  caravan  was  at 
length  allowed  to  pass  without  paying  tribute. 

The  weather  was  now  excessively  hot;  and,  as  they 
advanced  into  the  desert,  their  suflferings  from  want  of 
water  became  daily  more  severe.  At  length,  on  their 
arrival  at  the  wells  of  Nedjej^tn,  finding  them  empty, 
and  being  thus  unable  to  replenish  their  stock,  the 
whole  party  were  in  the  greatest  dejection,  foreseeing 
that  all  the  asses  must  very  soon  die,  if  not  speedily 
supplied  with,  this  necessary  article,  and  none  of  the 
traders  had  more  than  a  few  draughts  for  his  own  per- 
sonal use.  After  a  long  deliberation,  they  at  length 
came  to  the  only  determination  that  could  save  them, 
namely ;  to  send  ten  or  twelve  of  the  strongest  camels 
to  bring  a  supply  from  the  nearest  point  of  the  Nile. 

They  were  not  more  than  a  journey  of  five  or  six 
hours  distant  from  the  Nile,  but  its  banks  being  in- 
habited by  a  hostile  tribe  of  Arabs,. it  was  impossible 
for  the  whole  caravan  to  proceed  thither.  It  was 
therefore  arranged  that  a  party  should  set  out  in  the 
afternoon,  so  as  to  arrive  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
during  the  night,  and  having  filled  the  water  skins,  to 
return  as  speedily  and  stealthily  as  possible. 


i 


ADVKNTURES   OP   BimCKIIAIlbT. 


127 


Those  ^vllo  remained  in  the  meanwhilo  passed  tho 
evening  in  tho  greatest  anxiety ;  for,  if  tho  camels 
should  not  return,  they  had  little  hope  of  escape  from 
either  death  by  thirst,  or  by  the  sword  of  their  enemies, 
who,  if  they  had  once  caught  a  glance  of  the  camels, 
would  have  traced  their  footsteps  in  the  sand,  and  thus 
discovered  and  plundered  the  caravan.  At  length, 
about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  tho  distant  halloo- 
ings  of  their  watermen  broke  upon  their  ears  ;  and  they 
soon  refreshed  themselves  with  copious  draughts  of  tho 
delicious  water  of  the  Nile. 

On  the  23d  of  March,  tho  caravan  arrived  at  Ank- 
heyre,  the  principal  town  in  tho  district  of  Berber, 
whence,  after  resting  fourteen  days,  they  again  set.  out. 
Burckhardt  was  not  at  all  sorry  to  leave  this  place,  for 
the  character  of  its  inhabitants  was  so  bad  that  a 
stranger  can  never  consider  himself  safe  among  them 
for  a  moment. 

Matters  were  not  much  mended  on  their  arrival  at 
Ras-el-wady,  where  the  mek,  or  governor,  forced  them 
to  pay  very  heavy  fines,  under  the  name  of  transit 
duties.  Fortunately  his  contributions  did  not  fall  very 
severely  on  our  traveller,  who,  foreseeing  the  probabil- 
ity of  some  such  danger,  had  disposed  of  his  ass,  which 
was  the  best  animal  in  the  caravan,  to  one  of  his  fellow 
traders,  taking  in  exchange  a  less  powerful  beast,  and 
a  small  sum  of  money.  The  spirited  animal  soon 
caught  the  attention  of  the  mek,  and  he  insisted  on  its 
being  presented  to  him,  much  to  the  dissatisfaction  of 
its  new  owner,  who  had  only  gained  possession  of  it  on 
the  preceding  day^. 

At  Damer,  tho  caravan  halted  five  days.    This  place 


0 

0 


128 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


li!!;; 


BUBOKHABST  SSLLINa  BEADS. 


is  chiefly  inhabited  by  Fokara,  or  religious  men.  The 
governor,  or  chief  is  called  Faky  el  Kebir,  or  the  Great 
Faky.  The  family  in  which  this  dignity  is  hereditary, 
have  the  reputation  of  being  endowed  with  such  super- 
atural  powers  that  nothing  can  withstand  their  spells. 
So  powerful  are  these  that  the  father  of  the  present 
faky  is  said  on  one  occasiou  to  have  caused  a  lamb  to 
bleat  in  the  stomach  of  the  thief  who  had  stolen  it,  and 
afterwards  eaten  it. 

As  there  is  no  daily  market  at  Da'taer,  nor  any  shops 


ADVENTURES  OP  BURCKHARDT. 


129 


The 
rreat 
tary, 
iper- 
)ells. 
sent 
»b  to 
and 

hops 


where  articles  can  be  bought  except  on  the  weekly 
market-day,  Burckhardt  was  under  the  necessity  of 
imitating  his  companions,  and  going  from  house  to 
house  with  some  strings  of  beads  in  his  hands,  offering 
thera  for  sale  at  about  four  handsful  of  corn  for  each 
bead.  "I  gained  at  this  rate,"  says  he,  "about  sixty 
per  cent,  on  the  prime  cost ;  and  at  the  same  time  had 
an  opportunity  of  entering  many  private  houses,  and 
studying  the  manners  and  habits  of  the  people." 

So  strong  is  the  belief  of  the  credulous  natives  in  the 
powers  of  the  fakies,  that  the  mere  sight  of  them  walk- 
ing unarmed  at  the  head  of  a  caravan  is  sufficient  to 
protect  it.  The  services  of  several  were  therefore 
secured,  and  the  party  again  set  out,  and  reached 
Hawaya  in  safety.  This  village  forms  the  northern 
frontier  of  the  territory  of  Shendy.  As  he  understood 
it  to  be  a  safe  place,  Burckhardt  took  some  beads  to 
exchange  for  bread,  in  the  village.  After  a  long  and 
fruitless  search,  he  was  met  by  two  men,  "^ho  invited 
him  to  go  home  with  them,  telling  him  that  their  wives 
would  take  the  beads.  Burckhardt  accordingly  fol- 
lowed them,  until  they  reached  a  narrow,  unfrequented 
lane,  when  they  turned  short  upon  him,  snatched  away 
the  beads,  tore  off  his  cap,  and  then,  finding  that, 
unarmed  as  he  was,  he  still  made  some  resistance,  they 
drew  their  swords.  Burckhardt  then  considered  that 
it  was  time  to  take  to  his  heels,  and  rejoined  his  com 
panions,  who  laughed  at  his  misfortunes.  He  after- 
wards applied  for  redress  to  the  sheikh  of  the  village, 
who  recovered  the  cap  and  beads  for  him,  but  insisted 
on  being  paid,  as  a  compliment,  twice  the  value  of  the 
stolen  goods. 


c 

0 
0 


180 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


On  their  arrival  at  Shendy,  Burckhardt  abandoned 
all  idea  of  proceeding  farther  south,  and  resolved  to 
take  the  route  for  the  Red  Sea.  He  disposed  of  all 
his  little  adventure  of  merchandise,  and  purchased  a 
slave  boy,  partly  for  the  sake  of  having  a  constant  and 
useful  companion,  and  partly  to  aiford  him  an  ostensi- 
ble reason  for  going  in  the  direction  of  the  Red  Sea, 
•where  he  might  expect  to  sell  him  at  a  profit.  He  also 
purchased  a  camel,  and  having  laid  in  a  supply  of 
provisions  for  the  journey,  he  set  out  on  the  ITth  of 
May. 

In  this  journey  the  caravan  was  exposed  to  a  violent 
hurricane ;  "  the  most  tremendous,"  says  Burckhardt, 
"that  I  ever  remember  to  have  witnessed.  A  dark 
blue  cloud  first  appeared ;  as  it  approached  nearer,  and 
increased  in  height,  it  assumed  an  ash-gray  colour, 
with  a  tinge  of  yellow,  striking  every  person  in  the 
caravan  who  had  not  been  accustomed  to  such  phe- 
nomena with  amazement  at  its  magnificent  and  terrific 
appearance :  as  the  clouds  approached  still  nearer,  the 
yellow  tinge  became  more  general,  while  the  horizon 
presented  the  brightest  azure.  At  last  it  burst  upon 
us  in  its  rapid  course,  and  involved  us  in  darkness  and 
confusion ;  nothing  could  be  distinguished  at  the  dis- 
tance of  five  or  six  feet,  our  eyes  were  filled  with  dust, 
our  temporary  sheds  blown  down  at  the  first  gust,  and 
many  more  firmly  fixed  tents  followed.  The  largesl 
withstood  for  a  time  the  efiFects  of  the  blast,  but  were 
at  last  obliged  to  yield,  and  the  whole  camp  was  levelled 
with  the  ground.  In  the  meantime,  the  terrified  camels 
arose,  broke  the  cords  by  which  they  were  fastened, 
and  endeavoured  to  escape  from  the  destruction  which 


ADVENTURES  OP  BURCKHARDT. 


131 


appeared  to  threaten  them,  thus  adding  not  a  little  to 
our  embarrassment.  After  blowing  about  half  an  hour 
with  increased  violence,  the  wind  suddenly  abated; 
and,  when  che  atmosphere  became  clear,  the  tremendous 
cloud  was  seen  continuing  its  havoc  to  the  north-west. 
At  length,  on  the  26th  of  June,  they  arrived  at 
Sou^kin,  after  journeying  through  a  wild,  picturesque 
country,  and  pitched  their  tents  at  a  short  distance 
from  the  town.  On  the  following  day  they  were  visited 
by  the  emir,  who  came  in  person  to  levy  the  customary 
contributions.  Understanding  that  Burckhardt's  camel 
was  famed  in  the  caravan  for  its  strength  and  agility, 
he  wished  to  secure  it,  telling  him  that  all  camela 
brouglit  from  Soudan  by  foreign  traders  were  his. 
Bui'ckhardt  refused  to  comply  with  this  unjust  demand, 
and  insisted  on  the  matter  being  referred  to. the  Turk- 
ish custom-liouse  officer.  He  was  accordingly  carried 
before  the  aga,  who,  having  been  instructed  by  ..le 
emir,  addressed  Burckhardt  in  a  very  haughty  and 
repulsive  manner.  Burckhardt  at  first  refused  to 
answer;  but  at  length  told  him  that  he  had  come  to 
hear  from  his  own  mouth  whether  the  emir  was  entitled, 
to  his  camel.  "  Not  only  thy  camel,"  he  replied,  "  but 
the  whole  of  thv  bairirnfie  must  be  taken  and  searched;" 
and,  affecting  to  treat  him  as  a  Mameluke  spy,  or 
refugee,  he  continued;  "you  shall  not  impose  upon  us, 
you  rascal ;  yon  may  be  thankful  if  we  do  not  cut  oflf 
your  head !"  Burclchardt,  seeing  there  was  no  other 
way  of  escape,  now  drew  from  his  pocket  the  two 
firmans  or  letters  with  which  he  had  provided  himself 
before  setting  out,  one  of  which  was  sealed  with  the 
great  seal  of  Mohammed  Ali.   The  change  from  haughty 


c 
0 

0 


132 


PERILOrR   ADVENTURES. 


Mi'llAMMKD   ALI. 


insolence  to  base  servility  was  instantaneous.  The  aga 
kissed  tlic  papers,  pressed  them  to  his  forehead,  and 
apologized  for  his  conduct  in  the  most  submissive  terms. 
Nothing  more  was  said  about  the  emir's  right  to  the 
cauiel,  and  Burckhardt's  slave  even  was  allowed  to 
]iass  duty  free.  Afraid  of  the  reports  which  our 
tiiiveilor  might  make  to  the  bashaw  respecting  his 
government  in  Souakin,  the  aga  tried  every  means  in 
lis  j)!t\vcr  to  ingratiate  himself  with  him.  He  invited 
him  to  his  tabic  daily,  and  offered  him  a  present  of  a 
slave,  and  one  of  his  own  dresses,  both  of  which  marks 


-4 


^ 


The  aga 
ead,  and 
re  terms, 
it  to  the 
owed  to 
lich  our 
ting  his 
neans  in 
e  invited 
ent  of  a 
ih  marks 


ADVENTUUES   OF   liURCKlIAllDT. 


133 


of  kindness,  however,  Burckhardt  thought  proper  to 
decline. 

From  Souakin  our  traveller  sailed  for  Djidda,  on  the 
opposite  shore  of  tlie  Red  Sea,  on  the  6th  of  July,  and 
after  suffering  much  inconvenience  from  the  crowded 
state  of  the  vessel,  and  the  inadequate  supply  of 
water,  as  well  as  the  unskilful  navigation  of  the  Ara- 
bian sailors,  they  arrived  at  Djidda  on  the  18th  of  July. 
More  than  three-fourths  of  the  time  had  been  consumed 
in  sailing  lazily  along  the  coast,  disembdrking  every 
evening,  and  passing  the  night  on  shore. 

Having  obtained  permission  from  the  bashaw,  he 
accordingly  set  out  for  Mecca,  and  witnessed  and  took 
part  in  the  singular  and  absurd  ceremonial,  at  the  per- 
formance of  which  were  gathered  an  immense  crowd  of 
people  from  every  corner  of  the  Mohammedan  world — 
the  principal  men  accompanied  by  long  retinues  of 
attendants,  their  equipments  vicing  with  each  other  in 
splendour  and  magnificence.  He  also  performed  a 
pilgrimage  to  the  tomb  of  the  Prophet,  at  Medina. 

From  Medina  he  travelled  to  Yembo,  where,  on  his 
arrival,  he  found  the  plague  raging  with  the  greatest 
violence.  After  remaining  here  three  weeks,  he  found 
his  way  to  Tor,  where  he  recovered  his  health.  He 
arrived  at  Cairo  on  the  24th  of  June,  after  an  absence 
of  nearly  two  years  and  a  half. 

From  Cairo  he  afterwards  made  one  or  two  unim- 
portant excursions,  in  one  of  which  he  reached  Mount 
Sinai,  and  traced  the  course  of  the  Red  Sea  as  far  as 
Akaba. 

At  Cairo  Burckhardt  remained  for  some  time,  ar- 
ranging the  journals  of  his  Arabian  and  Nubian  travels, 

12 


C 

0 

0 


134 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


and  waiting  the  opportunity  of  joining  a  Moggrebin 
caravan,  to  penetrate  into  Africa.  While  thus  en 
gaged,  he  was  attacked  by  a  disease  which  carried  him 
off  after  an  illness  of  eleven  days,  notwithstanding 
the  best  medical  attendance  which  the  place  could 
afford. 


ABAB  SROAUFiraNT, 


conv 


AUAMtANS. 


A  TRAVELLER'S  ENCOUNTER  WITH 
ALBANESE  BRIGANDS.     ,.   ,, ,.., 

BOUT  1832,  the  brigands  were 
numerous  in  Greece,  and  attacks 
upon  travellers  and  villages  were 
frequent.  An  English  traveller, 
who  experienced  their  hostility, 
has  left  us  the  following  account 
of  their  attack  upon  a  village. 

Our  first  care  on  landing  had 
been  to  negociate  for  horses  to 
convey  ourselves  and  our  baggage  to  Nauplia.     We 


C 

0 


136 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


were  quietly  eating  our  breakfast,  in  expectation  of 
their  arriyal,  when  a  messenger  came  in  breathless  hasto 
to  announce  that  a  party  of  irregular  soldiers,  or 
Albanese,  as  they  are  generally  called,  "was  coming 
down  to  pillage  the  place.  We  immediately  re-shipped 
all  our  baggage,  and,  having  prepared  our  arms, 
awaited  the  arrival  of  these  formidable  brigands.  In 
the  meantime  the  news  had  spread  the  utmost  terror 
and  confusion  through  all  the  inhabitants  of  Epidanrus. 
The  women  and  children  crowded  around  us,  weeping, 
crying,  wringing  their  hands,  and  imploring  us  to  tal<e 
them  on  board  our  caique,  which  was  the  only  vessel 
in  the  harbour.  To  comply  with  their  demand  was,  of 
course,  impossible,  for  our  boat  was  a  very  small  one, 
and  we  might  be  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  it  for  our 
own  safety.  We  told  them,  however,  that  if  they 
wished  to  put  any  of  their  valuables  on  board,  Ave  would 
take  them  under  our  protection.  Accordingly,  the  men 
brought  their  arms,  pistols,  muskets,  and  yataghans, 
and  in  such  quantities,  that  we  could  not  help  asking 
why  they  did  not  retain  them,  and  use  them  for  their 
own  defence,  instead  of  submitting  to  be  pillaged  and 
abused  by  a  party  of  ruffians,  who  probably  were  not 
equal  to  themselves  in  numerical  amount  ?  "  We  dare 
not  resist, "^  they  replied,  "  we  might  drive  them  away 
to-day,  but  ihey  would  return  to-morrow  with  greater 
force,  and  our  fate  would  be  worse  than  ever."  We 
said  all  we  could  to  rouse  them  to  a  vigourous  resistance, 
but  our  persuasions  were  unavailing ;  their  spirits 
seemed  completely  broken  by  a  long  course  of  suffering 
and  oppression ;  they  had  been  scourged  and  trodden 
into  passive  abjectncss.     The  Albanese  soon  appeared. 


ENCOUNTKll    AVITII    BRIGANDS. 


187 


They  were,  as  I  conjectured,  a  stragling  party,  with- 
out pay,  and  without  leader,  and  subsisting  entirely  on 
pillage.  The  whole  of  Greece  is  overrun  with  similar 
bands.  A  more  squalid,  ferocious,  rufifianly-looking  set 
of  men  I  never  beheld.  They  were  filthy  in  the  extreme ; 
their  dress  was  torn  and  ragged,  and  their  countenances 
denoted  long  endured  famine  and  hardships.  They  all 
carried  two  enormous  pistols  and  a  yataghan  in  their 
belts,  and  a  long  gun  over  their  shoulders.  They  saw 
at  once  that  they  had  no  resistance  to  encounter,  so 
set  about  their  errand  vigourously,  seizing  every  thing  in 
the  way  of  food  or  ammunition  they  could  lay  their 
hands  on.  The  people,  subdued  to  the  cowardice  of 
silent  indignation,  stood  quietly  by,  watching  the  sei- 
zure of  their  stores,  without  venturing  even  a  remon- 
strance. I  was  equally  disgusted  with  the  dastardly 
endurance  of  the  one  party,  and  the  brutal  oppression 
of  the  other.  The  brigands,  after  rifling  every  house, 
except  the  one  in  which  we  had  established  ourselves, 
began  to  feast  upon  their  spoils.  They  were  soon  in- 
toxicated, and  their  brutality  then  became  unbridled. 
Their  conduct  was  that  of  utter  barbarians.  They 
insulted  all  the  women  who  had  been  foolish  enough  to 
remain  in  the  village,  and  the  men  did  not  dare  to 
interfere.  I  could  bear  the  scene  no  longer,  and 
strolled  away  tOAvards  one  of  the  remotest  houses,  when 
a  loud  scream  arrested  my  attention,  and  a  young 
woman,  with  a  babe  in  her  arms,  rushed  out  of  the  door, 
pursued  by  one  of  the  Albanese.  My  indignation  had 
before  wanted  but  little  to  make  it  overflow ;  so,  look- 
ing this  way  and  that  way,  like  Moses  when  he  slew 
the  Egyptian,   I   rushed   after  the  inebriated  ruffian, 


c 
0 

0 


188 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


and  brought  him  to  the  ground  by  a  blow  with  the  butt 
end  of  my  carbine.  He  fell  with  great  violence,  and 
lay  for  some  minutes  insensible.  I  took  his  pistols  and 
yataghan,  and  threw  them  into  a  marsh  close  by,  and 
then  went  up  to  the  poor  woman,  who  was  terrified  to 
death,  and  led  her  to  a  thicket  of  thorn  trees,  where 
she  was  not  likely  to  be  discovered.  Here  we  remained 
till  nightfall,  when  wo  ventured  from  our  hiding-places, 
and  found  that  the  Albanese  had  retired,  and  were 
probably  gone  to  repeat  the  same  scene  at  some  othci 
nllage. 


)  butt 

• 

,  and 

s  and 

,  and 

^.-,^.,i    ,.,.,     .,v,                          ■*.. 

-  ...,-  ....  -  .,.j*,  >.                       ...f-.-f-.ti. 

ed  to 

•              t.      -                                   ' 

vhero 

/.'! 

'a 

ained 

! . 

aces, 

S 

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were 

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othoi 

• 

■ 

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0 

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0 

0 


MIXICAN  MABKET-WOUAN. 


ADVENTURES  IN  MEXICO. 

EXICO  was  appropriately  called  "New 
Spain"  by  its  adventurous  conquer- 
ors. The  title  was  prophetic  of  its 
character.  The  country  has  many 
features  in  common  with  old  Spain — 
beauties  and  barrens  being  thickly 
and  alternately  spread  throughout  its 
extent.  The  Spanish  language  is  in  common  use,  and 
the  generality  of  the  people  have  the  vices  and  virtues 
of  the  Spanish  character — being  haughty,  pleasure- 
loving,  superstitious,  and  ti*eacherous. 

A  recent  traveller  in  Mexico — Mr.  George  Frederic 


I   \ 


142 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


■■1 1 : 


Ruxton — has  published  some  very  interesting  and 
instructive  sketches  of  his  journey  and  adventures, 
written  in  that  simple  and  direct  style  which  one  loves 
to  find  in  such  a  work.  Hie  observed  acutely,  and 
caught  the  spirit  of  the  people  and  institutions  of  the 
country.  Landing  at  the  city  of  Vera  Cruz,  Mr.  Rux- 
ton was  struck  with  its  singular  situatioii  and  features. 
He  says : — 

From  the  sea  the  coast  on  each  side  of  the  town 
presents  a  dismal  view  of  sand  hills,  which  appear 
almost  to  swallow  up  the  walls.  The  town,  however, 
sparkling  in  the  sun,  with  its  white  houses  and  numer- 
ous church-spires,  has  rather  a  picturesque  appearance  ; 
but  every  object,  whether  on  sea  or  land,  glows  unna- 
turally in  the  lurid  atmosphere.  It  is  painful  to  look 
into  the  sea,  where  shoals  of  bright-coloured  fish  are 
swimming ;  and  equally  painful  to  turn  the  eyes  to  the 
shore,  where  the  sun,  refracted  by  the  sand,  actually 
scorches  the  sight,  as  well  as  pains  it  by  the  quivering 
glare  which  ever  attends  refracted  light!  -■ 

The  city  is  well  planned,  surrounded  by  an  adobe  wall, 
with  wide  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles. 
There  are  also  several  l".i"ge  and  handsome  buildings 
fast  mouldering  to  decay.  One  hundred  years  ago  a 
flourishing  commercial  city,  like  every  thing  in  Spanish 
America-,  it  has  suffered  from  the  baneful  effects  of  a 
corrupt,  impotent  government.  Now,  with  a  scanty 
population,  and  under  the  control  of  a  military  despot- 
ism, its  wealth  and  influence  have  passed  away.  The 
aspect  of  the  interior  of  the  town  is  dreary  and  deso- 
late beyond  description.  Grass  grows  in  the  streets 
and  squares ;  the  churches  and  public  buildings  are 


ADVENTUllES    TN    MEXICO. 


143 


falling  to  ruins ;  scarcely  a  human  being  is  to  be  met, 
and  the  few  seen  are  sallow  and  lank,  and  skulk 
through  the  streets  as  if  fearing  to  encounter,  at  every 
corner,  the  personification  of  the  dread  vomito,  which 
at  this  season  (August)  is  carrying  oflf  a  tithe  of  the 
population.  Every  where  stalks  the  "  sopilote"  (turkey- 
buzzard,)  sole  tenant  of  the  streets,  feeding  on  the 
garbage  and  carrion  which  abound  in  every  corner. 

Before  delivering  my  letters  I  went  t-i  a  fonda,  or  inn, 
kept  by  a  Frenchman,  but  in  Mexico-Spanish  style. 
Here  I  first  made  acquaintance  with  the/W;We,  a  small 
black  bean,  which  is  the  main  food  of  the  lower  classes 
over  the  whole  of  Mexico,  and  is  a  standing  dish  on 
every  table  both  of  the  rich  and  poor.  The  cuisine, 
being  Spanish,  was  the  best  in  the  world,  the  wine 
good,  and  abundance  of  ice  from  Orizaba.  Among  the 
company  at  the  fonda  was  a  party  of  Spanish  padres, 
a  capellan  of  a  Mexican  regiment,  and  a  Capuchin 
friar.  I  w^as  invited  one  evening  to  their  room,  and 
w^as  rather  surprised  when  I  found  I  was  in  for  a  regu- 
lar punch-drinking  bout.  The  Capuchino  presided  at 
the  bowl,  which  he  concocted  with  considerable  skill ; 
and  the  jolly  priests  kept  it  up  until  the  gray  of  the 
morning,  when  they  all  sallied  out  to  mass,  it  being  the 
feast  of  San  Isidro. 

The  next  day  I  accompanied  this  clerical  party  to 
he  castle  of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa,  which  we  were  allowed 
0  inspect  in  every  part.  I  thought  it  showed  very 
iittle  caution,  for  I  might  have  been  an  American  for 
all  they  knew  to  the  contrary.  The  fortress  is  con- 
structed with  considerable  skill,  but  is  in  very  bad 
repair.     It  is  said  to  mount  three  hundred  and  fifty 


c 

0 

0 


144 


PERILOUS    ABVKNTUUKS. 


pieces  of  artillery,  many  of  heavy  caliber,  but  is  defi- 
cient in  mortars.  The  garrison  did  not  amount  to  more 
than  seven  hundred  men,  although  they  were  in  hourly 
expectation  of  an  attack  by  the  American  squadron ; 
and  such  a  miserable  set  of  naked  objects  as  they  were, 
could  scarcely  be  got  togetner  in  any  other  part  of  the 
world.  Our  party  was  ciceroned  by  an  aid-de-camp 
of  the  governor,  who  took  us  into  every  hole  and  cornei 
of  the  works.  The  soldiers'  barracks  were  dens  unfit 
for  hogs,  without  air  or  ventilation,  and  crowded  to 
suffocation. 

In  one  of  the  batteries  were  some  fine  ninety-eight- 
pounders,  all  English  manufacture,  but  badly  mounted, 
and  some  beautiful  Spanish  brass  guns.  Not  the 
slightest  discipline  was  apparent  in  the  garrison,  and 
scarcely  a  sentinel  was  on  the  look-out,  although  the 
American  squadron  was  in  sight  of  the  castle,  and  an 
attack  was  hourly  threatened.  On  the  side  facing  the 
island  of  Sacrificios  the  defences  were  very  weak ; 
indeed,  I  saw  no  obstruction  of  sufficient  magnitude  to 
prevent  half  a  dozen  boat's  crews  making  a  dash  in 
the  dark  at  the  water-batteries,  where  at  this  time  Avere 
neither  guns  nor  men,  nor  one  sentry  whose  post  would 
command  this  exposed  spot ;  thence  to  cross  the  ditch 
which  had  but  two  or  three  feet  of  water  in  it,  blow 
open  the  gate  of  the  fortress  with  a  bag  of  powder,  and 
no  organized  resistance  could  be  dreaded  when  once  in 
the  castle.  I  pointed  this  out  to  one  of  the  officers  of 
the  garrison.  He  answered,  "  No  hay  cuidado !  no  hay 
cuidado !  somos  muy  valientes,"  "Never  fear,  never 
fear!  we   are   very  brave   here."     "Si   quieren,   loa 


o 

> 

H 
O 

> 


^« 


los 


C 

c 


^^■i  -//-,       ;      i/ 


^■W^ 


m 


f 


i,'.;i  .: 


•  »t*  *■  ■ 


ADVENTURES   IN   MEXICO. 


141 


HATIONAL  fiUIKIK. 


Americanos,  que  vengan" — "  If  the  Americans  like  to 
try,  let  them  come." 

As  we  returned  at  night  to  Vera  Cruz,  a  dull,  yellow- 
ish haze  hung  over  the  town.  I  asked  the  "  patron" 
of  the  boat  what  it  was.  Taking  his  cigar  from  his 
mouth,  he  answered  quite  seriously,  "  Senor,  es  el 
vomito — it's  the  fever." 

In  spite  of  the  "  weak"  condition  of  the  city  of  Vera 
Cruz  and  its  castle  at  the  time  of  Mr.  Ruxton's  visit, 
they  made  a  good  defence  when  besieged  by  the  United 
States  forces,  under  Gen.  Winfield  Scott.  The  city  sus- 
tained a  bombardment  of  several  days  before  it  yielded. 

Mr.  Ruxton  now  took  the  road  towards  the  capital. 


C 

0 

0 


148 


rEuiLous  Ai)VF.N-Trr.i:Fi, 


After  crossing  tlic  beautiful  National  Bridge,  he  reached 
the  Plan  del  llio,  where  ho  was  forced  to  put  up  at  one 
of  those  miserable  inns,  so  common  in  Mexico,  of  which 
he  gives  the  following  humourous  account : 

"  At  sunset  we  reached  El  Plan  del  Rio,  a  miserable 
venta,  which  we  found  crowded  with  cavalry  soldiers 
and  their  horses,  so  that  Ave  had  great  trouble  in  find- 
ing room  for  our  own  animals.  This  hostelry  belonged 
to  the  genus  meson,  a  variety  of  the  inn  species  to  bo 
found  only  in  Mexico.  It  was,  however,  a  paradise 
compared  to  the  mesones  north  of  the  city  of  Mexico ; 
and  I  remember  that  I  often  looked  back  upon  this  one, 
which  Castillo  and  I  voted  the  most  absolutely  miser 
able  of  inns,  as  a  sort  of  Clarendon  or  Mivarts.  Round 
the  corral,  or  yard,  where  were  mangers  for  horses  and 
mules,  were  several  filthily  dirty  rooms,  without  win 
dows  or  furniture.  These  were  the  guests'  chambers. 
Mine  host  and  his  family  had  separate  accommodations 
for  themselves,  of  course  ;  and  into  this  part  of  the  man 
sion  Castillo  njanaged  to  introduce  himself  and  me,  and 
to  procure  some  supper.  The  chamhernvid — who, 
unlocking  the  door  of  the  room  apportioned  to  us,  told 
us  to  beware  of  the  mala  gente  (the  bad  people)  who 
were  about — was  a  dried-up  old  man,  with  a  long, 
grizzled  beard  and  matted  hair,  which  fell,  guiltless  of 
comb  or  brush,  on  his  shoulders.  He  was  perfectly 
horrified  at  our  uncomplimentary  remarks  concerning 
the  cleanliness  of  the  apartment,  about  the  floor  of 
which  troops  of  fleas  were  carracoling,  while  flat,  odor- 
iferous bugs  Avere  sticking  in  patches  to  the  walls.  My 
request  for  some  water  for  the  purpose  of  washing 
almost  knocked  hira  down  Avith  the  heinousness  of  tho 


M 


0 

0 


de 

sa 

a 

8\^ 

la 

qi] 

■■>^';^-|  iV' '  ^ 

is 

V'-.  ."^'^   *  ^"V     -" 

< 

.'  ' 

vv''-1->v  -"  . 

qi 

'  ■-■"■'"?/■'•''■ 

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do 

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ex 

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to 

'-,-f'---<*f.  ■'* 


ADVENTURES   IN   MEXICO. 


151 


demand ;  but  when  he  had  brought  a  littUj  carthen-waro 
saucer,  holding  about  a  table-spoonful,  and  I  asked  for 
a  towel,  he  stared  at  me,  open-mouthed,  without  an- 
swering, and  then  burst  out  into  an  immoderate  fit  of 
laughter.  "Ay  que  hombre,  Ave  Maria  Purissima, 
que  loco  es  este!" — Oh,  what  a  man,  what  a  madman 
is  this!  " Servilletta,  panugla,  toalla,  que  demonio 
quiere  ?" — towel,  napkin,  hanokerchief — what  the  devil 
does  he  want  ? — repeating  the  different  terms  I  used  to 
explain  that  I  wanted  a  towel.  "  Ha,  ha  ha !  es  medio 
tonto,  es  medio  tonto" — a  half-witted  fellow,  I  see. 
"  Que  demonio !  quire  agua,  quire  toalla !"  what  the 
d — 1 !  he  wants  water,  towels,  every  thing.     "  Adios !" 

Attaining  the  tierra  templada,  or  temperate  region, 
our  traveller  next  approached  Jalapa: 

"  Jalapa,  the  population  of  which  is  nearly  seventeen 
thousand,  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  Macultepec,  at  an 
elevation  of  four  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Unfortunately, 
this  elevation  is  about  that  which  the  strata  of  clouds 
reach,  when,  suspended  over  the  ocean,  they  come  in 
contact  with  the  ridge  of  the  Cordillera,  and  this  ren- 
ders the  atmosphere  exceedingly  humid  and  disagree- 
able, particularly  in  northeasterly  winds.  In  summer, 
however,  the  mists  disappear,  the  sun  shines  brightly, 
and  the  sky  is  clear  and  serene.  At  this  time  the 
climate  is  perfectly  heavenly ;  the  extremes  of  heat  and 
cold  are  never  experienced,  and  an  even  genial  temper- 
ature prevails,  highly  conducive  to  health  and  comfort. 
Fever  is  here  unknown ;  the  dreaded :  vomito  never 
makes  its  appearance  on  the  table-land ;  and,  in  spite 
of  the  humid  climate,  sickness  is  comparatively  rare 


C 

0 
0 


152 


PERiLor;^  AnvEXHiRnj<. 


and  seldom  fatal.  The  avcvago  tciupcraturc  is  60  to 
65°  in  Bummor. 

On  a  bright,  t  unny  day  the  scciiory  round  Juliipa  is 
not  to  bo  surpassed ;  mountains  bound  the  horizon, 
except  on  one  side,  where  a  distant  view  of  the  sea  adds 
to  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  Orizaba,  Avith  its  snow- 
capped peak,  appears  so  close  that  one  imn<^inos  it  is 
within  reach  ;  and  rich  and  evergreen  forests  clothe  the 
surrounding  hills.  In  the  foreground  are  beautiful 
gardens,  with  fruits  of  every  clinic — the  biuiuna  and 
fig,  the  orange,  cherry,  and  apple.  The  town  is  irregu- 
larly built,  but  picturesque ;  the  houses  are  in  the  style 
of  Old  Spain,  with  windows  to  the  gi-(>\ind,  juid  barred, 
in  which  sit  the  Jalaponas,  with  tiieir  beiiulit'iilly  fair 
complexions  and  eyes  of  fire. 

Near  Jalapa  are  two  or  three  cotton-f;lctories,  which 
I  believe  pay  well.  They  are  under  the  management 
of  English  and  Ame:  icans.  The  girls  employed  in  the 
works  are  all  Indians  or  ^lestizas,  healthy  and  good- 
looking.  They  are  very  apt  in  learning  their  work, 
and  soon  comprehend '  the  various  uses  of  the  machi- 
nery. In  the  town  there  is  but  little  to  see.  The 
church  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Cortez,  and 
there  is  also  a  Franciscan  convent.  However,  a  stranger 
is  amply  interested  in  walking  about  the  streets  and 
market,  where  he  will  see  much  that  is  strange  and 
ew.  The  vicinity  of  Jalapa,  although  poorly  cultivated, 
produces  maize,  wheat,  grapes,  jalap  (from  which  plant 
it  takes  its  name,)  and  a  little  lower  down  the  cordillera 
grow  the  vanilla,  the  bean  which  is  so  highly  esteemed 
for  its  aromatic  flavour,  and  the  fruits  of  the  tempo  %te 
and  torrid  zones. 


c 
0 


INTERIOR  OF  A  MEXICAN  HOllSE. 


>  x 


..     J,> 


■-.>,»■-»,>  IT*' 


AbVENTUUKS   IN   MKXICO. 


155 


On  inquiry  as  to  tho  modes  of  travelling  from 
Jalapa  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  I  found  that  the  journey 
in  tho  diligencia  to  the  capital  was  to  be  preferred  to 
any  this  season,  on  account  of  the  rains ;  although  by 
the  former  there  was  almost  a  certainty  of  being  robbed 
or  attacked.  So  much  a  matter  of  course  is  this  disa- 
greeable proceeding,  that  the  Mexicans  invariably  cal- 
culate a  certain  sum  for  the  expenses  of  tho  road, 
including  the  usual  fee  for  los  cahalleros  del  camino. 
All  baggage  is  sent  by  the  arrieros  or  muleteers,  by 
which  means  it  is  insured  from  all  danger,  although  a 
long  time  on  the  road.  The  usual  charge  is  twelve 
dollars  a  carga,  or  mule-load  of  two  hundred  pounds, 
from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  capital,  being  from  ten  to 
twenty  days  on  the  road.  The  Mexicans  never  dream 
of  resisting  the  robbers,  and  a  coach  load  of  nine  is 
often  stopped  and  plundered  by  one  man.  The  ladroncs> 
however,  often  catch  a  Tartar  if  a  party  of  foreigners 
should  happen  to  be  in  the  coach ;  and  but  the  other 
day,  two  Englishmen,  one  an  officer  of  the  Guards,  the 
other  a  resident  in  Zacatecas,  being  in  a  coach  which 
was  stopped  by  nine  robbers,  near  Puebla,  on  being 
ordered  to  alight  and  hocahaxo — throw  themselves  on 
their  noses — replied  to  the  request  by  shooting  a  couple 
of  them,  and,  quietly  resuming  their  seats,  proceeded 
on  their  journey. 

During  my  stay  two  English  naval  officers  arrived 
in  the  diligencia  from  Mexico.  As  they  stepped  on* 
bristling  with  arms,  the  Mexican  by-standers  eijuoul  itcd, 
"  Valgame  Dios !"  What  men  these  English  are ! 
"Esos  son  hombres!" — These  are  men!  The  last 
week  the  coach  was  robbed  three  times,  and  a  poor 


C 

0 


156 


PERILOUS   ADV  ..NTllliES. 


Gachupin,  mistakon  for  an  EnrrlislimaTi,  was  nearly 
killed,  the  robbers  having  vowed  vengeance  against  the 
pale-faces  for  the  slaughter  of  their  two  comrades  at 
Puebla ;  and  a  few  months  before,  two  robbers  crawled 
upon  the  conch  during  the  night,  and  putting  a  pistol 
through  the  leathern  panels,  shot  an  unfortunate  pas- 
senger in  the  head,  who,  they  had  been  informed, 
carried  arms  and  was  determined  to  resist.  There  is 
not  a  travelling  Mexican  who  cannot  narrate  to  you 
his  experiences  on  "  the  road  ;"  and  scarcely  a  foreigner 
in  the  country',  more  particularly  English  and  Ame- 
ricans, who  has  not  come  to  blows  with  the  ladrones  at 
some  period  or  other  of  his  life.  •      r  ■^■:-  p  .-v'''; 

Such  being  the  satisfactory  state  of  affairs,  before 
starting  on  this  dangerous  expedition,  and  particularly 
as  I  carried  all  my  baggage  with  me  (being  too  old  a 
soldier  ever  to  part  with  that,)  assisted  by  mine  host, 
I  had  a  minute  inspection  of  arms  and  ammimition,  all 
of  which  was  put  in  perfect  order.  One  fine  morning, 
therefore,  I  took  my  seat  in  the  diligencia,  with  a  for- 
midable battery  of  a  double-barrel  rifle,  a  ditto  carbine, 
two  brace  of  pistols,  and  a  blunderbuss.  Blank  were 
the  faces  of  my  four  fellow-passengers  when  I  entered 
thus  equipped.  They  protested,  they  besought — every 
one's  life  would  be  sacrificed,  were  one  of  the  party  to 
resist.  "  Senores,"  I  said,  "  here  are  arms  for  you  all ; 
better  for  you  to  fight  than  be  killed  like  a  rat."  No, 
they  washed  their  hands  of  it,  would  have  nothing  to 
do  with  gun  or  pistol.  "Yaya:  noes  el  costumbre" 
— it  is  not  the  custom,  they  said. 

From  Jalapa  the  road  constantly  ascends,  and  we 
are  now  leaving  the  tierra  templada,  the  region  of  oaks 


ADVKNTL'JtES    IN    JIKXIt'O. 


157 


UKZICAM  ncT. 


and  liquid  amber,  for  the  still  more  elevated  regions  of 
the  tierra  fria^  called  cold^  however,  merely  by  com- 
parison, for  the  temperature  is  equal  to  that  of  Italy, 
and  the  lowest  range  of  the  thermometer  is  G2°.  Tlie 
whole  table-land  of  Mexico  belongs  to  this  division. 
The  scenery  here  becomes  mountainous  and  grand ; 
and  on  the  right  of  the  road  is  a  magnificent  cascade, 
which  tumbles  from  the  side  of  the  mountain  to  the 
depth  of  several  hundred  feet.  The  villages  are  few, 
and  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  apart,  and  the  population 
scanty  and  miserable.  No  signs  of  cultivation  appear, 
but  little  patches  of  maize  and  chile,  in  the  midst  of 
which  is  an  Indian  hut  of  reeds  and  flags.  In  the  eve- 
ning we  passed  through  a  fine  plain  in  which  strfhds 
the  town  and  castle  of  Perote.  ■• 

At  eleven  next  day  we  stopped  to  breakfast,  and 
were  joined  by  a  stout  wench  of  La  Puebla,  with  a  nut- 
brown,  face,  and  teeth  as  white  as  snow.  She  informed 
us  that  there  were  muy  mala  gente  on  the  road — very 
bad  people — who  had  robbed  the  party  with  which  she 
was  travelling  but  the  day  before  ;  and,  being  muy  sin 
verguenza — shameless  rascals — had  behaved  very  rudely 
to  the  ladies  of  the  party.  Our  buxom  companion  was 
dressed  in  Poblana  style. 


Her  long  black  hair  was 


0 


lo8 


I'EllILOrS    ADVi:XTURES. 


i 


combed  over  her  ears,  from  which  descended  huge 
silver  earrings;  the  red  enagua,  or  short  petticoat, 
fringed  with  yellow,  and  fastened  round  her  waist  with 
a  silk  band ;  from  her  shoulders  to  the  waist  a  chemi- 
sette was  her  only  covering,  if  we  except  the  gray 
reboso  drawn  over  her  head  and  neck ;  and  on  her  small 
naked  foot  was  a  tiny  shoe  with  silver  buckle. 

However,  we  reached  Puebla  safe  and  sound,  and 
droVe  into  the  yard  of  the  Fonda  de  las  Diligencias, 
where  the  coach  and  its  contents  were  minutely  in 
spectcd  by  a  robber-spy,  who,  after  he  had  counted  the 
passengers  and  their  arms,  immediately  mounted  his 
horse  and  gallopped  away.  This  is  done  every  day, 
and  in  the  teeth  of  the  authorities,  who  wink  at  the 
cool  proceeding.  '  1-  ..^;;,. 

The  same  manners,  customs,  and  general  institutions 
noted  by  travellers  in  old  Spain  are  to  be  found  in 
Mexico,  slightly  modified  by  the  republican  form  of 
government.  k'.j- 

Puebla,  the  capital  of  the  intendancy  of  that  name, 
is  one  of  the  finest  cities  in  Mexico.  Its  streets  are 
wide  and  regular,  and  the  houses  and  public  buildings 
are  substantially  built,  and  in  good  taste.  The  popu- 
lation, which  is  estimated  at  between  eighty  and  one 
hundred  thousand,  is  the  most  vicious  and  demoralized 
in  the  republic.  It  was  founded  by  the  Spaniards,  in 
1631,  on  the  site  of  a  small  village  of  Cholula  Indians, 
and,  from  its  position  and  the  fertility  of  the  surround- 
ing country,  was  unsurpassed  by  any  other  city  in  the 
Spanish  Mexican  dominions.  The  province  is  rich  in 
the  remains  of  Mexican  antiquities.  The  fortifications 
of  Tlaxcaila  and  the  pyramids  of  Cholula  are  worthy 


c 

0 
0 


;? 


ADVENTURES   IN    MEXICO. 


161 


of  a  visit,  and  the  noble  cypress  of  Atlixo  is  seventy- 
six  feet  in  circumference,  and,  according  to  Humboldt, 
the  "oldest  vegeta  le  monument"  in  the  world. 

We  left  Puebla  early  in  the  morning,  and  as  day 
broke,  a  scene  of  surpassing  beauty  burst  upon  us. 
The  sun,  rising  behind  the  mountain,  covered  the  sky 
with  a  cold,  silvery  light,  against  which  the  peaks  stood 
in  bold  relief,  while  the  bases  were  still  veiled  in  gloom. 

Passing  through  a  beautiful  country,  we  reached  Rio- 
Frio,  a  small  plain  in  the  midst  of  the  mountains,  and 
muy  mal  punto  for  the  robbers,  as  the  road  winds 
through  a  pine-forest,  into  which  they  can  escape  in 
case  of  repulse.  The  road  is  lined  with  crosses,  which 
here  are  veritable  monuments  of  murders  perpetrated 
on  travellers.  Here,  too,  we  took  an  escort,  and,  when 
we  had  passed  the  pinol,  the  corporal  rode  up  to  the 
windows,  saying,  "  Ya  sesretira  la  escolta," — the  escort 
is  about  to  retire ;  in  other  words,  Please  remember  the 
guard.  Each  passenger  presented  him  with  the  custom- 
ary dos  reales,  and  the  gallant  escort  rode  off  quite 
contented.  Here,  too,  all  the  worst  puntos  being 
passed,  my  companions  drew  long  breaths,  muttered 
*'  Ave  Maria  Purissima — ^gracias  si  Dies  ya  no  hay  cui- 
dado,"  and  lighted  their  cigars.  We  soon  after  crested 
the  ridge  of  the  mountain,  and,  descending  a  winding 
road,  turned  an  abrupt  hill,  and,  just  as  I  was  settling 
myself  in  the  corner  for  a  good  sleep,  my  arm  waa 
seized  convulsively  by  my  opposite  neighbour,  who,  with 
half  his  body  out  of  the  window,  vociferated :  "  Hi  esta, 
hi  esta,  mire,  por  Dios,  mire !" — Look  out  for  God's 
sake !  there  it  is.  Thinking  a  ladi'on  was  in  sight,  I 
seized  my  gun;  but  my  friend,  seeing  my  mistake, 

14* 


0 

0 


162 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


n 


No,  no,  Mejico,  Mejico,  la 


drew  in  his  head,  saying, 
ciudad!" 

To  stop  the  coach  and  jump  on  the  box  was  the  work 
of  a  moment ;  and,  looking  down  from  the  same  spot 
where  probably  Cortez  stood  three  hundred  years  ago, 
before  me  lay  the  city  and  valley  of  Mexico,  bathed  by 
the  soft  flooding  light  of  the  setting  sun. 

He  must  be  insensible,  indeed  a  clod  of  clay,  who 
does  not  feel  the  blood  thrill  in  his  veins  at  the  first 
sight  of  this  beautiful  scene.  What  must  have  been  the 
feelings  of  Cortez,  when,  with  his  handful  of  followers, 
he  looked  down  upon  the  smiling  prospect  at  his  feet, 
the  land  of  promise  which  was  to  repay  them  for  all 
the  toil  and  dangers  they  bad  encountered !  >■■ 

The  first  impression  which  struck  me  on  seeing  the 
valley  of  Mexico  was  the  perfect,  almost  unnatural, 
tranquillity  of  the  scene.  The  valley,  which  is  about 
sixty  miles  long  by  forty  in  breadth,  is  on  all  sides 
inclosed  by  mountains,  the  mosu  elevated  of  which  are 
on  the  southern  side ;  in  the  distance  are  the  volcanoes 
of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl,  and  numerous  peaks 
of  difierent  elevation.  The  lakes  of  Tezcuco  and  Chalco 
glitter  in  the  sun  like  burnished  iilver,  or,  shaded  by 
the  vapours  which  often  rise  from  them,  lie  cold  and 
tranquil  on  the  plain.  The  distant  view  of  the  city, 
with  its  white  buildings  and  numerous  churches,  its 
egular  streets  and  shaded  paseos,  greatly  augments 
the  beauty  of  the  scene,  over  which  floats  a  solemn, 
delightful  tranquillity. 

On  entering  the  town,  one  is  struck  with  the  regu- 
larity of  the  streets,  the  chaste  architecture  of  the 
buildings,  the  miserable  appearance  of  the  population. 


ADVENTURES   IN   MEXICO. 


163 


VIKW   OP   THE   V0I.CAX0K8   KKOM    MEXICO. 


the  downcast  look  of  the  men,  the  absence  of  ostenta- 
tious display  of  wealth,  and  the  prevalence  of  filth  which 
every  where  meet  the  eye.  On  every  side  the  passen- 
ger is  importuned  for  charity.  Disgusting  lepers  whine 
for  clacos ;  maimed  and  mutilated  wretclies,  mounted 
on  the  backs  of  porters,  thrust  out  their  distorted 
limbs  and  expose  thrir  sores,  urging  their  human  steeds 
to  increase  their  pace  as  their  victim  increases  his  to 
avoid  them.  Rows  of  cripples  are  brought  into  the 
streets  the  firs<"  thing  in  the  morning,  and  deposited 
against  a  wall,  whence  their  infernal  whine  is  heard  the 


0 

0 


161 


TEUILOUS   ADVExN'TURES. 


livelong  day.     Cries  such  as  these  every  where  salute 
the  ear : 

"  Jesus  Maria  Puriseima ;  una  corta  cariilad,  cabal- 
lero,  en  el  nombre  do  la  santis^inia  madro  de  Dios ;  una 
corta  caridad,  y  Dios,  lo  pi'.gara  a  ustcd." — In  the 
name  of  Jesus,  the  son  of  the  most  pure  Mary,  bestow 
a  little  charity,  my  lord ;  for  tlie  sake  of  the  most  holy 
mother  of  God,  bestow  a  trilie,  and  God  will  repay  you. 

Mexico  is  the  head-quarters  of  dirt.  The  streets  are 
dirty,  the  houses  are  dirty,  the  men  are  dirty,  and  the 
women  dirtier,  and  every  thing  }ju  cat  and  drink  is 
dirty. 

This  love  of  dirt  only  refers  to  the  Mexicans  proper, 
since  the  Gac]iui)ines,*  and  all  foreigners  in  the  city, 
and  those  iSIcxicans  who  have  boon  abroad,  keep  them- 
selves aloof  and  clean.  The  streets  are  filled  with 
leperos,  with  officers  in  uniform  (pleasing  themselves 
as  to  the  style,)  with  priests,  and  fat  and  filthy  Capu- 
chinos,  friars  and  monks.  ..-..-    - 

Observe  every  countonanco ;  with  hardly  an  excep- 
tion, a  physiognomist  will  dctei^t  the  expression  of  vice, 
and  crime,  and  conscious  guilt  in  each.  No  one  looks 
you  in  tlic  face,  but  all  slouch  past  with  downcast  eyes 
and  hangdog  look,  intent  upon  thoughts  that  will  not 
bear  the  liglit.  The  slioi;s  are  poor  and  ill  supplied, 
thu  markets  filthy  in  the  extreme.  Let  no  fastidious 
touiach  look  into  the  tortiUcrias,  the  shops  where 
pastiy  is  made. 

■•  The  (Jaclmpin  is  tlio  tcnn  of  contempt  ■vvliich  Tvas  bestowetl 
upon  thu  Spiiniui'ila  in  the  W:ii"  of  liulepondeucc,  and  is  now  invari- 
ably nseJ  by  the  lower  clasfies  to  distinguish  a  Spaniard  from  a 
Mexican. 


salute 

,  cabal- 
)s ;  una 
■In  the 
bestow 
)st  holy 
ay  you. 
Dcts  are 
and  the 
irink  is 

proper, 
;he  city, 
ip  them- 
cd  with 
miselves 
y  Capu- 

1  cxcep- 
.  of  vice, 
)ne  looks 
a  St  eyes 
will  not 
supplied, 
astidious 
)s  where 


ri  bestowetl 
low  invari- 
ird  from  a 


c 

0 
/I 


Tt 

the  r( 

at  al 

•■ 

panel 

the  h 

pay  1 

tinkle 

knees 

cerem 

t 

occasi 

one  ol 

hat  ai 

spied 

broug 

the  h( 

their  ] 

■■'-••     :  ■   '.. 

an  am 

the  cr 

ing  I 

severe 

"A: 

God?' 

lie  ma 

"V 

demor 

Ta( 

S 

counti 

durinf 

aqued 

spring 

the  ai 

- 

hy  th 

ADVENTURES   IN    MEXICO. 


167 


The  stranger  in  Mexico  is  perpetually  annoyed  by 
the  religioup  processions  which  perambulate  the  streets 
at  all  hours.  A  coach,  with  an  eye  painted  on  the 
panels,  and  drawn  by  six  mules,  conveys  the  Host  to 
the  houses  of  dying  Catholics  who  are  rich  enough  to 
pay  for  the  privilege;  before  this  equipage  a  bell 
tinkles,  which  warns  the  orthodox  to  fall  on  their 
knees;  and  wo  to  the  unfortunate  who  neglects  this 
ceremony,  either  from  accident  or  design.  On  one 
occasion,  being  suddenly  surprised  by  the  approach  of 
one  of  these  processions,  I  had  but  just  time  to  doff  my 
hat  and  run  behind  a  corner  of  a  building,  when  I  was 
spied  by  a  fat  priest,  who,  shouldering  an  image, 
brought  up  the  rear  of  the  procession.  As  he  was  at 
the  head  of  a  vast  crowd  who  were  just  rising  from 
their  knees,  he  thought  it  a  good  opportunity  of  venting 
an  anathema  against  a  vile  heretico.  Turning  first  to 
the  crowd,  as  much  as  to  say,  "  Just  see  what  a  dress- 
ing I  am  going  to  give  this  fellow,"  he,  with  a  most 
severe  frown,  addressed  me  :  . 

"Man,"  said  he,  "do  you  refuse  to  kneel  to  your 
God?"  "No,  mi  padre,"  I  answered,  "pero  al  imagen 
tie  mad^ra" — but  to  an  image  of  wood. 

"Vaya,"  muttered  the  padre;  "lo  te  pagara  el 
demonio" — the  devil  will  pay  thee — and  marched  away. 

Tacubaya  is  the  Richmond  of  Mexico :  villas  and 
country  residences  abound,  where  the  aristocracy  resort 
during  the  hot  months.  The  road  passes  the  great 
aqueduct  which  supplies  the  city  with  water  from  a 
spring  in  Chapultepec.  It  is  not  strongly  built,  and 
the  arches  exhibit  many  cracks  and  fissures  occasioned 
by  the  earthquakes.     At  this  season  the  valley  was 


c 
0 


168 


rUUILOl  S   ADVKN'fLREii, 


partly  inuudatcd,  and  tho  road  almost  impassable  to 
carriages. 

By  this  road  Cortez  retreated  from  tho  city  on  tho 
memorable  "noche  tristc,"  the  sorrowful  night.  Tho 
fatal  causeway,  the  passage  of  which  was  so  destructive 
to  the  Spaniards,  was  probably  on  nearly  the  same  site 
as  the  present  road,  but  tho  latter  since  that  period 
has  entirely  changed  its  character.  On  returning  from 
Tacubaya,  I  visited  the  hill  of  Chapultepec,  celebrated 
as  being  the  site  of  Montezuma's  palace,  on  which, 
toward  tho  close  of  tho  seventeenth  century,  tho  viceroy 
Galvcz  erected  a  huge  castle,  the  remains  of  which  are 
now  occupied  by  the  military  school.* 

Far  more  interesting  than  the  apocryphal  tradition 
of  the  Indians'  palace,  the  viceroy's  castle,  or  the  exist- 
ing eyesore,  is  the  magnificent  grove  of  cypress,  which 
outlives  all  the  puny  structures  of  man,  and  still  in  tho 
prime  of  strength  and  beauty,  looks  with  contempt  on 
the  ruined  structures  of  generation  after  generation 
which  have  passed  away.  One  of  these  noble  trees  is 
upward  of  seventeen  yards  in  girth,  and  the  most  pic- 
turesque, and  at  tho  same  time  most  nobly  proportioned 
tree  it  is  possible  to  conceive.  It  rises  into  the  sky  a 
perfect  pyramid  of  foliage,  and  from  its  sweeping 
branches  hang  pendulous,  graceful  festoons  of  a  mossy 
parasite.  There  are  many  others  of  equal  height  and 
beauty ;  but  this  one,  which  I  believe,  is  called  Monte- 

*  Chapultepec  hag  been  immortalized  since  the  visit  of  Mr.  Rux- 
ton,  by  being  the  scene  of  one  of  the  most  memorable  of  all  the 
battles  fought  during  the  recent  yrar  between  Mexico  and  the  Unitei) 
States.  It  was  in  the  storming  of  this  strong  castlo  that  the  most 
splendid  displays  of  American  valour  took  place. 


o 
o 


o 


o 

GQ 

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o 

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.lif '!  i!!;^" 


>Mff 


ill  IllllllillJiili'llliliiii. , 


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ADVENTURES   IN   MEXICO. 


171 


zuma's  cypress,  stands  more  isolated,  and  is  therefore 
conspicuously  grand.  From  the  summit  of  the  hill,  to 
which  a  path  winds  through  a  labyrinth  of  shrubs,  a  fine 
view  of  the  valley  and  city  of  Mexico  is  obtained,  and 
of  the  surrounding  mountains  and  volcanic  peaks. 

The  streets  of  Mexico  at  night  present  a  very  ani- 
mated appearance.  In  the  leading  thoroughfares  the 
tortilleras  display  their  tempting  viands,  illuminated  by 
the  blaze  from  a  brazero,  which  serves  to  keep  the  tortil 
las  and  chile  Colorado  in  a  proper  state  of  heat.  To  these 
stalls  resort  the  arrieros  and  loafers  of  every  descrip- 
tion, tempted  by  the  shrill  invitations  of  the  presiding 
fair  ones  to  taste  their  wares.  Urchins,  with  blazing 
links,  run  before  the  lumbering  coaches  proceeding  to 
the  theatres.  Cargadores — porters — stand  at  the  oor 
ners  of  the  flooded  streets,  to  bear  across  the  thin- 
booted  passengers  on  their  backs.  The  cries  of  the 
pordioscros,  as  the  beggars  are  called  from  their  con- 
stant use  of  "  por  Dies,"  redouble  as  the  night  advances. 
The  mounted  ones  urge  their  two-legged  steeds  to 
cut  oflF  the  crowd  thronging  toward  the  theatres,  ming 
ling  their  supplications  for  alms  with  objurations  on 
their  lazy  hacks. 

"  Urga  limosnita,  taballerito,  por  (to  the  cargador) 
Malraya  !  piernas  de  piedra,  anda — and-a-a — .',  A 
small  trifle,  my  little  lord,  for  the  sake  of — (aside  to  tlie 
unfortunate  porter,  in  a  stage  whisper)  Thunder  an  I 
fury,  thou  stony-legged  one !  get  on  fur  the  love  of 
mercy :  he  is  going  to  give  me  a  claco.    Ar-M — ar-r-h6. 

Red-petticoated  pohlanas*  reboso-wrapped,  display 


0 


*  The  Pohlana  is  the  Mnnola  of  Mexico. 


172 


PEUILOUS   ADVI^NTURl.S. 


their  little  feet  and  Avcll-turnctl  ankles  as  they  cross  the 
gutters ;  and,  cigar  in  mouth,  they  wend  their  way  to 
the  fandangoes  of  the  Barrio  do  Santa  Anna.  From 
every  pulque-shop  is  heard  the  twanging  of  guitars  and 
the  quivering  notes  of  the  cantadores,  who  excite  the 
guests  to  renewed  potations  by  their  songs  in  praise  of 
the  grateful  liquor.  The  popular  chorus  to  one  of 
these  is: 

A 

"  Sabe  que  es  pulque  ?  '  ~.   -i ;.  • 

Licor  divino-o ! 
Lo  beben  los  angeles 

En  el  8creno-o."  ■ 

"Know  ye  what  pulque  iflt        -• 
Liquor  divine !  .. 

Angels  in  heaven  ' 

Prefex-  it  to  wine." 


Those  philosophical  strangers  who  wish  to  see  "  life 
in  Mexico"  must  be  careful  what  they  are  about,  and 
keep  their  eyes  skinned,  as  they  say  in  Missouri. 
Here  there  are  no  detective  police  from  which  to  select 
a  guide  for  the  back  slums — no  Sergeant  Shackel  to 
mit'.ate  one  into  the  mysteries  of  St.  Giles'  and  the 
Seven  Dials.  (;ne  must  depend  upon  his  own  nerve 
and  bowie-knife,  his  presence  of  mind  and  Colt's  re- 
volver ;  but,  armed  even  with  all  these  precautions,  it 
IS  a  dangerous  experiment,  and  much  better  to  be  left 
alone.  Provided,  however,  that  one  speaks  the  Ian 
guage  tolerably  well,  is  judicious  in  the  di  ribudon  of 
his  dollars,  and  steers  clear  of  committing  any  act  of 
gallantry  by  which  he  may  provoke  the  jealousy  and 
cuchillo  of  the  susceptible  Mejicano,  the  expedition  may 


bi 

m 

ai 
n 

fr 

^ 
th 
hi 

tr 
8U 


ADVENTUllKri    IN    MEXICO. 


173 


C 

0 

0 


MEXICAN   ROBOBnSL 


be  undertaken  without  much  danger,  and  a  satisfactory 
moral  drawn  therefrom. 

One  niglit,  equipped  from  head  to  foot  "al  paisano," 
and  accompanied  by  one  Jos6  Maria  Canales,  a  worthy 
rascal,  wlio,  in  every  capacity,  from  a  colonel  of  dra- 
goons to  a  horse-boy,  had  perambulated  the  republic 
from  Yucatan  to  the  valley  of  Taos,  and  had  inhabited 
apartments  in  the  palace  of  the  viceroys  as  well  as  in 
the  Acordada,  and  nearly  every  intermediate  grade  of 
habitation,  T  sallied  ou*^  for  the  very  purpose  of  perpe- 
trating such  an  expedition  as  I  have  attempted  to  dis- 
suade •thers  frem  undertaking. 

15* 


174 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


Our  first  visit  was  to  the  classic  neighbourhood  of 
the  Acordada,  a  prison  which  contains  as  unique  a 
collection  of  malefactors  as  the  most  civilized  cities  of 
Europe  could  produce.  On  the  same  principle  as  that 
professed  by  the  philosopher,  who,  during  a  naval  battle, 
put  his  head  into  a  hole  through  which  a  cannon-shot 
had  just  passed,  as  the  most  secure  place  in  the  ship, 
so  do  the  rogues  and  rascals,  the  pick-pockets,  mur- 
derers, burglars,  highwaymen,  coiners,  et  hoc  genus  omne^ 
choose  to  reside  under  the  very  nose  of  the  gallows. 

My  coriipanion,  who  was  perfectly  at  home  in  this 
locality,  recommended  that  we  should  visit  a  cele- 
brated pulquoria,  where  he  would  introduce  me  to 
a  caballero — a  gentleman — who  knew  every  thing  that 
was  going  on,  and  would  inform  us  what  amusements 
were  on  foot  on  that  particular  night.  Arrived  at  the 
pulque  shop,  we  found  it  a  small,  filthy  den,  crowded 
with  men  and  women  of  the  lowest  class,  swilling  the 
popular  liquor,  and  talking  unintelligible  slang.  My 
cicerone  led  me  through  the  crowd,  directly  up  'o  a 
man  Avho,  with  his  head  through  a  species  of  sack  with- 
out sleeves,  and  sans  cliemtse,  was  serving  out  the  pul- 
que to  his  numerous  customers.  I  was  introduced  as 
"  un  forastero,  un  caballero  Yngles" — a  stranger — an 
English  gentleman,  his  particular  friend.  Mine  host 
];olitely  offered  his  hand,  assured  me  that  his  house  and 
all  in  it  was  mine  from  that  hour,  poured  us  out  two 
large,  green  tumblers  of  pulque,  and  requested  us  to 
be  seated. 

It  was  soon  known  that  a  foreigner  was  in  the  room. 
In  spite  of  my  dress  and  common  sarape,  I  Avas  soon 
eingled  out.     Cries  of  "  Estrangcro,  Tejano,  Yanque, 


ABVENTUUES   IN   MEXICO. 


175 


burro,"  saluted  mo;  I  was  a  Texan,  a  Yankee,  and 
consequently  burro — a  jackass.  The  crowd  surrounded 
me,  women  pushed  through  the  throng,  a  ver  el  hurro 
— to  look  at  the  jackass ;  and  the  threats  of  summary 
chastisement  and  ejection  were  muttered.  Seeing  that 
affairs  began  to  look  cloudy,  I  rose,  and,  placing  my 
hand  on  my  heart,  assured  the  caballeros  y  las  seno- 
ritas  that  they  laboured  under  a  slight  error :  that,  al- 
though my  face  was  white,  I  was  no  Texan,  neither  was 
I  a  Yankee  or  a  jackass,  but  "  Yngles,  muy  amigo  si  la 
republica" — an  Englishman,  having  the  welfare  of  the 
republic  much  at  heurt;  and  that  my  affection  for 
them,  and  hatred  of  their  enemies,  was  something  too 
excessive  to  express ;  that  to  prove  this,  my  only  hope 
was  that  they  would  do  me  the  kindness  to  discuss  at 
their  leisure  half  an  arroba  of  pulque,  which  I  begged 
then  and  there  to  pay  for,  and  present  to  them  in 
token  of  my  sincere  friendship. 

The  tables  were  instantly  turned :  I  was  saluted  with 
cries  of  "  Viva  el  Yngles  !  Que  meueren  los  Yanquds  ! 
Vivan  nosotros  y  pulque !" — Hurrah  for  the  English- 
man !  Death  to  the  Yankees !  Long  live  ourselves 
and  pulque !  The  dirty  wretches  thronged  round  to 
shake  my  hand,  and  semi-drunken  poblanas  lavished 
their  embraces  on  "  el  guero."  I  must  here  explain 
that,  in  Mexico,  people  with  fair  hair  and  complexions 
are  called  guero,  guera  ;  and,  from  the  caprice  of  hurar  n 
nature,  the  guero  is  always  a  favourite  of  the  fair  sex : 
the  same  as,  in  our  country,  the  olive-coloured  foreign- 
ers with  black  hair  and  beards  are  thought  "  such  loves" 
by   our   fair    country-AVomen.     The    guero,   however, 


0 

n 


>s^ 


176 


PEltlLOrs    ADVKNTriU'lS. 


shares  this  favouritism  with  tho  genuine  unadulterated 
negro,  who  is  also  greatly  admired  by  the  Mejicanas. 

After  leaving  the  pulqueria,  we  visited,  without 
suspicion,  tho  dens  where  those  people  congregate  for 
the  night — filthy  cellars,  where  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren were  sleeping,  rolled  in  sarapes,  or  in  groups, 
playing  at  cards,  furiously  smoking,  quarrelling,  and 
fifjhtino;.  In  one  we  were  attracted  to  the  corner  of 
a  room,  whence  issued  the  low  sobs  of  a  woman,  and, 
drawing  near  the  spot  as  well  as  the  almost  total  dark- 
ness would  admit,  I  saw  a  man,  pale  and  ghastly, 
stretched  on  a  sarape,  with  the  blood  streaming  from 
a  wound  in  the  right  breast,  which  a  half-naked  woman 
was  trying  in  vain  to  quench.  lie  had  just  been  stabbed 
by  a  lepero  with  whom  he  had  been  playing  at  cards 
and  quarrelled,  and  who  was  coolly  sitting  within  a 
yard  of  the  wounded  man.  continuing  his  game  with 
another,  the  knife  lying  before  him  covered  with  blood. 
The  wound  was  evidently  mortal ;  but  no  one  present 
paid  the  slightest  attention  to  the  dying  man,  excepting 
the  woman,  who,  true  to  her  nature,  was  endeavouring 
to  relieve.  After  seeing  every  thing  horrible  in  this 
region  of  crime,  we  took  an  opposite  direction,  and, 
crossing  the  city,  entered  the  suburb  called  the  Barrio 
dc  Santa  Anna.  .  .  ,     .  . 

This  quarter  is  inhabited  by  a  more  respectable  class 
of  villains.  The  ladrones  a  capello — knights  of  the 
road — make  this  their  rendezvous,  and  bring  here  the 
mules  and  horses  they  have  stolen.  It  is  also  much 
frequented  by  the  arrieros,  a  class  of  men  who  may  be 
trusted  with  untold  gold  in  the  way  of  trade,  but  who 
are,  when  n«t  "en  atajo"  (unemployed),  as  unserupu- 


ADVENTURES   IN   MEXICO. 


177 


lous  as  their  neighbours.  They  arc  a  merry  set  and 
the  best  of  companions  on  the  road;  make  a  great 
deal  of  money,  but,  from  their  devotion  to  pulque  and 
the  fair  sex,  are  always  poor.  "  Gastar  dinero  como 
arriero" — to  spend  money  like  an  arriero — is  a  common 
saying. 

In  a  meson  much  frequented  by  these  men  wo  found 
a  fandango  of  the  first  order  in  progress.  An  atago 
having  arrived  from  Durango,  the  arrieros  belonging 
to  it  were  celebrating  their  safe  arrival  by  entertaining 
their  friends  with  a  hayh  ;  and  into  this  my  friend,  who 
was  '^'  one  of  them,"  introduced  me  as  an  amigo  par- 
ticular— a  particular  friend.  The  entertainment  was 
al-fresco,  no  room  in  the  meson  being  large  enough  to 
hold  the  company ;  consequently  the  dancing  took 
place  in  the  corral,  and  under  tlie  portalcs,  where  sat 
the  musicians,  three  guitars  and  a  tambourine,  and 
where  also  was  good  store  of  pulque  and  mezcal. 

The  women,  in  their  dress  and  appearance,  reminded 
me  of  the  manolas  of  Madrid.     Some  wore  very  pic- 
turesque dresses,  and  all  had  massive  ornaments  of 
gold  and  silver.     The  majority,  however,  had  on  the 
usual  problana  enagua,  a  red  or  yellow  kind  of  petti- 
coat, fringed  or  embroidered,  over  the  simple  chemi- 
sette,  which,   loose   and   unconfined,   except   at   their 
waisi  ■;,  displayed  most  prodigally  their  charms.     Stock- 
ings are  never  worn  b}'^  this  class,  but  they  are  invari 
ably  very  particular  in  their  ckausure,  a  well-fitting 
shoe,  showing   off"  their  small,  well-formed  feet  and 
ankles.     The  men  were  all  dressed  in  elaborate  Mexi 
can  finery,  and  in  the  costumes  of  the  different  provin 
ces  of  which  they  were  natives. 


C 
0 

0 


178 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


The  dances  resembled,  in  a  slight  degree,  the  fan- 
dango arahe  of  Spain,  but  were  more  clumsy,  and  the 
pantomimic  action  less  energetic  and  striking.  Some 
of  the  dances  were  descriptive  of  the  different  trades 
and  professions.  El  Zapatero,  the  shoemaker ;  el 
Sastroncito,  the  little  tailor ;  el  Uspadcro,  the  swords- 
man, &c.,  were  among  those  in  the  greatest  demand ; 
the  guitar-players  keeping  time  and  accompanying 
with  their  voices  in  descriptive  songs. 

The  fandango  had  progressed  very  peacefully,  and 
good-humour  had  prevailed  until  the  last  hour,  when, 
just  as  the  dancers  were  winding  up  the  evening,  by 
renewed  exertions  in  the  concluding  dance,  the  musi- 
cians, inspired  by  pulque,  were  twanging  with  vigour 
their  relaxed  catgut,  and  a  general  chorus  was  being 
roared  out  by  the  romping  votaries  of  Terpsichore, 
above  the  din  and  clamour  a  piercing  shriek  was  heard 
from  a  corner  of  the  corral,  whore  was  congregated  a 
knot  of  men  and  women,  who  chose  to  devote  them- 
selves to  the  rosy  god  for  the  remainder  of  the  evening, 
rather  than  to  the  exertions  of  the  dance.  The  ball 
was  abruptly  brought  to  a  conclusion,  every  one  hast- 
ening to  the  quarter  whence  the  shriek  j)roceeded. 

Two  men,  with  drawn  knives  in  their  hands,  were 
struggling  in  the  arms  of  several  women,  who  strove  to 
prevent  their  encounter — one  of  the  women  having 
received  an  ugly  wound  in  the  attempt,  which  had 
caused  the  shriek  of  pain  which  had  alarmed  the 
dancers. 

"  Que  es  cso  ?" — What  is  this  ? — asked  a  tall,  pow- 
erful Durangiieno.  elbowing  his  Avay  through  tho 
crowd.     "  Que  quierren  esos  gaiioa?" — What  do  these 


ADVENTURES   IN   MEXICO. 


179 


game-cocks  want?  "A  pelear?" — To  fight,  eh? 
"  Vamos,  a  ver  los  toros  !" — Come,  let  us  see  the  fun ! 
— he  shouted.  In  an  instant  a  ring  was  formed ;  men 
and  women  standing  at  a  respectful  distance,  out  of 
reach  of  the  knives.  Two  men  held  the  combatants, 
who,  with  sarapes  rolled  round  their  arms,  passion 
darting  out  of  their  fiery  eyes,  looked  like  two  bull-dogs 
ready  for  the  fray. 

At  a  signal  they  were  loosed  at  each  other,  and,  with 
a  shout,  rushed  on  with  uplifted  knives.  It  was  short 
work  with  them,  for  at  the  first  blow  the  tendons  of  the 
right  arm  of  one  of  them  were  severed,  and  his  we«,^/On 
fell  to  the  ground ;  and  as  his  antagonist  was  about  to 
plunge  his  knife  into  the  body  of  his  disarmed  foe,  the 
by-standers  rushed  in  and  prevented  it,  at  the  same 
moment  that  the  patrulla  (the  patrol)  entered  the  corral 
with  bayonets  drawn,  and  sauve-qui-peut  was  the  word ; 
a  visit  to  the  Acordada  being  the  certain  penalty  of 
being  concerned  in  a  brawl  where  knives  have  been 
uh(h1,  if  taken  by  the  guard.  For  myself,  with  a  couple 
of  soldiers  at  my  heels,  I  flew  out  of  the  gate,  and 
never  stopped  until  I  found  myself  safe  under  the 
sheets,  just  as  daybreak  was  tinging  the  top  of  the 
cathedral.  .    .  " 


0 


liio:vTtia:T. 


ADVENTURES    IN   CALTFOllNIA. 


EFOllE  the  war  between  the 
United  States  and  Mexico, 
"which  began  in  the  spring  of 
184G,  Alta  California  was 
known  only  as  an  extensive, 
thinly-inhabited,  grazing  terri- 
tory, which  Mexico  had  con- 
siderable trouble  in  keeping 
under  her  sway,  in  consequence 
of  the  restless  and  independent  spirit  of  the  people. 
Monterey  Avas  the  chief  port,  and  hides  and  tallow 
were  •  the    principal    articles    of    commerce.      Upon 


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ADVENTURES    IN   CALIFOENIA. 


183 


tlic  breaking  out  of  the  war,  the  United  States  forces 
under  the  command  of  Commodore  Stockton  and 
General  Kearney  easily  subdued  this  territory,  first 
taking  Monterey  and  the  other  chief  towns ;  and  at 
the  treaty  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo,  it  was  ceded  to  the 
United  States.  Neither  party  knew  the  immense 
value  of  the  country  thus  bartered  away.  But  soon 
after  the  peace  it  was  accidentally  discovered  that  the 
streams  in  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  and  the  rocks 
and  gulfs  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  teemed  with  gold. 
This  discovery  acted  like  magic  in  changing  the  aspect 
of  things  in  the  territory.  California  became  the 
cynosure  of  all  eyes,  and  from  every  land  the  news  had 
reached,  came  crowds  upon  the  search  for  fortune.  The 
ohl  towns,  at  first  deserted,  grew,  by  the  great  numbers 
of  arrivals,  to  an  astonishing  size,  and  new  ones  sprang 
up  as  if  at  the  touch  of  the  enchanter's  wand.  San 
Francisco,  which  in  1847  contained  about  fifty  houses, 
became  a  great  city,  and  its  splendid  harbour  was 
crowded  with  vessels  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 
Digging  and  washing  for  gold  was  the  chief  business 
of  the  eager  crowds  of  adventurers.  The  scenes  and  in- 
cidents of  sucli  a  stirring,  changing  time  as  this  cannot 
but  be  both  amusing  and  instructive,  and  happily  many 
Englisli  and  American  travellers  and  adventurers  have 
left  upon  record  their  observations,  trials  and  operations. 
One  of  the  most  graphic  of  these  narrators  is  Mr. 
Redmond  Ryan,  whose  "  Personal  adventures  in  Cali- 
fornia,'.' contains  much  interesting  information  and 
amusing  incident  and  is  very  pleasantly  written.  Mr. 
Ryan  served  as  a  private  in  the  New  York  regiment 
of  volunteers,  which  after  performing  som©  brilliant  ex- 


c 
0 

0 


184 


PERILOUS    AUVENTLIIKS. 


ploits  in  Lower  California,  sailed  for  Monterey.  We 
will  let  him  tell  a  part  of  his  own  story. 

We  reached  Monterey  towards  the  end  of  August 
1848,  and  landed  full  of  hope,  feeling  satisfied  we 
should  be  immediately  disbanded,  paid,  and  once  more 
our  own  masters ;  free  to  seek  fortune  at  the  "  diggings, " 
or  elsewhere  if  we  fancied  it.  But  a  sore  disappoint- 
ment awaited  us.  Governor  Mason  had  decamped  to 
the  mines;  the  streets  were  unpeopled;  the  houses 
empty,  and  the  town  deserted :  with  the  exception  of  a 
stray  "regular"  now  and  then,  not  a  living  soul  was  to 
be  met  with.  Every  body  was  off  to  the  real  Tom  Tid- 
dlers ground,  to  pick  up  the  gold  and  silver.  From 
one  of  these  straggling  regulars  we  heard  that  tlie 
soldiers  had  long  ago  abandoned  the  fort  on  the  hill, 
all  attempts  to  prevent  them  from  deserting  their  post 
proving  utterly  futile  against  the  influence  of  the  thirst 
for  gold,  which  every  fresh  account  from  the  mines 
aggravated.  Pursuit  was  useless ;  it  had  been  tried 
and  failed,  for  the  pursuers  in  turn  became  the  pursued, 
until  Governor  Mason  himself,  learning  from  experience 
that  gold  possessed  stronger  allurements  to  the  soldiers 
than  glory,  followed  the  general  example,  taking  with 
him  a  small  government  cart  and  a  negro  servant.  He 
was  reported  to  be  away  on  government  business ;  but 
no  doubt  was  entertained  of  the  real  purpose  of  his 
journey  to  the  mines,  namely,  to  speculate  in  gold, 
which  at  this  time  could  be  bought  there  for  a  fourth 
of  its  real  value  in  coined  money. 

Colonel  B now  assumed  the  command  of  the 

post  in  the  absence  of  the  Governor ;  and,  upon  appli- 
cation being  made  to  him  for  quarters,  we  were  in- 


ADVENTURES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


185 


formed  there  were  none  provided,  and  we  must  shift  in 
tents  as  well  as  we  could.  The  misery  of  such  accom- 
modations soon  became  intolerable,  for,  having  como 
from  a  very  warm  latitude  but  recently,  the  cold  and 
the  torrents  of  rain  together  threatened  to  convert 
every  tent  into  an  hospital.  In  this  strait,  we  resolved 
to  pi'ocure  better  lodgings  at  any  risk,  and  proceeded 
at  once  to  break  open  and  instal  ourselves  in  such 
houses  as  we  judged  most  suited  to  our  wants.  I  took 
possession  of  the  school-house — the  door  of  which  I 
ought,  in  self-justification,  to  add,  stood  invitingly  open 
— and  found  the  private  apartments  of  the  schoolnias- 
tor  oxcoodinp;ly  comfortable.  The  rest  of  the  house 
was  rapidly  appropriated  by  other  parties,  and  became 
crowded  to  excess.  Some  of  the  volunteers,  neverthe- 
less, preferred  remaining  in  their  tents,  for  reasons 
which  we  were  not  long  in  discovering.  They  Avere  on 
the  look-out  for  horses,  which  they  were  of  opinion 
could  be  better  looked  after  a  little  way  out  of  the 
town,  and  were  not  so  likely  to  be  stolen  from  them. 

We  all  felt  anxious  to  be  moving  towards  the  valley 
of  gold  as  soon  as  possible,  but  not  a  word  had  we  yet 
heard  respecting  Avhat  was  just  then  of  considerable  im- 
portance to  us,  namely,  the  pay  which  the  government 
owed  us  for  several  months'  service,  and  an  honourable 
and  formal  discharge — lacking  which  latter  documcjit, 
we  should  want  our  title  to  the  one  hundred  and  sixty 
acres  of  land  that  had  been  promised  to  the  volunteers 
as  an  additional  incentive — over  and  above  their  pay 
— to  remain  faithful  to  their  country's  flag.  Indeed, 
80  many  were  the  difficulties  experienced  by  us  at  last 
in  procuring  this  important  instrument,  and  so  desirous 

16* 


C 

0 
0 


186 


PKllILOUS   ABVExMUllES. 


were  wc  to  depart,  that  witli  two  exceptions,  the  whole 
body  of  us  were  obli<^ed  tu  take  the  Colonel's  verbal 
dismissal ;  a  circumstance  that  ultimately  involved  the 
majority  in  an  extreme  difTiculty,  wlien  they  sought  to 
prove  their  right  to  the  land  in  question. 

Fortunately  for  us,  there  arrived  here,  one  Colonel 
Stevenson,  with  a  party  of  men  from  Pueblo  de  Lo3 
Arigclos,  tlie  whole  of  them  being  on  their  way  to  the 
mines.  To  his  influence  we  owed  a  supply  of  flint-lock 
muskets,  in  the  proportion  of  one  to  every  two  men, 
twenty  cartridges,  and  one  month's  rations;  all  of 
which  we  received  as  so  much  instalment  on  what  was 
really  due  to  us,  namely,  mileage  and  scrip,  to  say 
nothing  of  our  legal  title  to  our  one  hundred  and  sixty 
acres  of  land. 

We  were  no  sooner  our  own  masters  again,  than  there 
commenced  on  all  sides  a  series  of  the  most  active 
preparations  for  a  journey  to  the  mines.  The  plan 
adopted  was  to  form  bands  of  three,  five,  or  ten,  under 
the  leadership  of  one  of  the  number,  whose  name  the 
party  took,  and  continued  to  be  distinguished  by.  A 
set  of  written  rules  was  drawn  up  for  the  regulation  of 
the  general  interests,  these  rules  varying  in  certain 
points,  according  to  the  peculiar  views  of  particular 
associations. 

Whilst  our  men  were  preparing  for  their  departure, 
riaking  purchases,  packing  provisions,  and  equipping 
themselves  and  their  horses,  the  discovery  of  the  body 
of  one  of  our  number  cast  a  deep  gloom  over  our  spirits. 
He  was  found  at  the  bottom  of  a  well,  with  a  deep  cut 
over  his  head,  evidently  inflicted  by  a  sharp  instrument. 
An  accordion,  on  which  he  was  in  the  habit  of  playing, 


th( 


3ha 


DVENTL'llES   IN    ('ALlFUnKIA. 


187 


Aas  also  found  in  the  avcII,  on  tlio  top  of  his  botly,  aa 
tf  it  had  been  cast  in  after  it.  AVc  never  ascertained 
the  real  cause  of  this  murder,  but  strongly  suspected  it 
to  have  been  either  the  result  of  an  old  grudge,  or  of 
a  jealous  paroxysm  on  the  part  of  some  of  the  Span- 
iards, Avith  whom  he  had  always  been  at  variance,  and 
involved  in  serious  broils.  I  was  much  attached  to 
him,  and  sincerely  lamented  his  sad  end. 

So  much  time  having  now  been  lost  in  preparation, 
I  proposed  that  the  members  of  my  party  should  meet 
in  my  apartment,  on  a  certain  evening,  for  the  purpose 
of  p:»ying  over  their  respective  shares  to  the  common 
slock,  in  order  to  complete  the  purchase  of  our  yoke 
and  team.  But,  although  every  one  agreed  to  moot, 
three  of  the  party  went  that  evening  to  Abrigos,  and 
gambled  away  at  monte  every  cent  they  possessed. 
We  were  thus  left  without  sufficient  funds  to  procure 
the  means  of  transport;  until  Halliday,  Parker,  and 
myself,  putting  our  scanty  treasuries  together,  pur- 
chased two  more  horses ;  one  with  a  very  sore  back, 
the  other  spirited  enough,  but  small,  and  unfitted  for 
heavy  burdens. 

We  were  much  embarrassed  and  very  uneasy  con- 
cerning our  companions,  whom  we  did  not  like  to  leave 
behind  at  jSIonterey,  well  knowing  the  privations  and 
misery  they  would  have  to  endure ;  therefore,  and  not- 
withstanding their  improvidence,  we  determined  to  per- 
mit them  to  accompany  us.  One  of  them  had  already, 
I  should  state,  left  us,  and  set  off  after  another  party, 
then  en  route,  with  whom  he  succeeded  in  coming  up, 
and  reaching  the  mines. 

Having  manufactured   pack-saddles,   and  bestowed 


0 

0 


188 


PElULOUrf   ADVKNTl'KEo. 


A  OAUFORinAN  mSIAIT. 


away  our  month's  provisions,  our  cooking  utensils,  and 
other  necessaries,  and  I  having  consented  to  allow  my 
horse  to  be  used  for  the  pack  of  our  two  companions, 
the  larger  of  the  two  other  horses  being  reserved  for  a 
similar  purpose,  and  the  second  as  a  resource,  in  case 
of  a  break  down,  we  met,  five  in  number,  namely,  Devin, 
Ilalliday,  Drew,  Parker,  and  myself,  all  well  armed, 
and  in  capital  spirits,  and  set  off  upon  our  hazardous 
journey  in  the  evening,  determined  to  walk  the  whole 
way,  rather  than  fatigue  our  horses,  whose  strength  we 
knew  would  be  severely  tried. 

The  party  endured  great  hardships  during  the  jour- 
ney towards  the  mines,  and  great  ficcautions  were 
necessary  to  guard  against  the  robbers  and  Indians  of 
this  wild  country.  An  unsuccessful  attempt  of  two 
Indians  to  steal  the  horses  of  the  party  is  thus  narrated 
Dy  Mr.  Ryan  : — 

Our  march  proved  a  long  one,  although  we  made 


ADVENTURES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


189 


made 


little  progress  in  advance,  as  our  route  was  circuitous, 
and  finally  obstructed  by  an  immense  lagoon,  over- 
grown with  toolies,  or  bulrushes,  and  along  the  borders 
of  which  we  were  compelled  to  proceed  up  to  our  knees 
in  mud  and  water,  and  sometimes  even  higher.  We 
same  to  the  end  of  the  marsh  at  last,  but  found  our- 
selves so  fatigued  that  further  advance  was  impossible  ; 
we  therefore  selected  a  fitting  spot,  and  made  the  usual 
preparations  for  passing  the  night  there. 

Although  excessively  wearied,  I  was  unable  to  com- 
pose myself  to  sleep,  and  lay  half-sleeping,  half-waking, 
Avatching  the  glimmer  of  the  fire.  Suddenly — about 
half-past  one — I  heard  a  low  sound  among  the  bushes, 
at  a  little  distance  off;  and,  listening  more  attentively, 
at  last  plainly  distinguished  footsteps.  We  had  adopted 
the  precaution  of  sleeping  a  short  distance  from  the 
fire  ;  so  that  our  movements  were  not  easily  discernible. 
I  crept  stealthily  towards  Halliday,  having  first 
gnisped  my  pistols,  which  I  always  kept  ready  for  use 
under  my  head,  and  with  some  difliculty  succeeded  in 
arousing  him,  desiring  him  to  keep  perfectly  quiet,  but 
ojj^  the  alert.  We  were  in  such  a  position,  at  this  time, 
as  to  command  a  view  of  our  horses  and  property, 
which  had  been  left  under  the  care  of  a  sentinel.  Drew, 
who  had  fallen  fast  asleep,  his  head  resting  on  one  of 
the  animals  which  had  stretched  itself  on  the  ground 
by  his  side.  We  watched'  a  few  minutes,  and  then  be- 
held two  Indians  stalk  cautiously  out  from  amongst  the 
bushes,  and  advance  towards  our  fire,  evidently  to 
ascertain  if  any  of  us  were  stirring.  The  inspection 
proving  satisfactory,  as  it  seemed,  one  of  them  ap- 
proached the  sleeping  sentinel,  and  cast  a  lasso  around 


c 
0 

0 


190 


riilill/;!  ^;    .M)Vi;XTURES. 


my  horse's  neck,  Avliilst  tlic  other  liiid  his  hands  on  one 
of  tlio  saddles  and  a  pack.  I  took  steady  aim  at  the 
horse-stealer,  and,  discharging  my  pistol  as  he  was  on 
the  point  of  leading  the  animal  away,  perceived  that 
tlio  ball  took  effect  in  the  man's  right  shoulder,  for  he 
dropped  the  end  of  the  lasso,  and,  carrying  his  hand  to 
the  wound,  leaped  up,  and  disappeared  in  the  bush,  his 
companion  instantly  following  his  example.  The  report 
of  the  weapon  brought  our  comrades  about  us  in  a 
minute,  in  a  state  of  great  alarm,  and  all  equally  eager 
to  ascertain  the  extent  of  the  danger.  The  story  was 
soon  told,  and  our  sentinel  got  severely  rebuked,  for 
there  was  little  donbt  but  the  Indians,  tempted  by  the 
carelessness  of  our  sentinel,  intended  to  take  advantage 
of  it  by  stealing  as  much  as  they  could  carry  off. 
Having  adopted  additional  precautions  in  the  event  of 
a  second  surprise,  we  lay  down  again. 

But  our  troubles  were  not  over,  for  several  times  we 
were  obliged  to  get  up  and  run  after  our  horses,  which, 
Dcing  tied  up  to  the  low  bushes  by  leathern  ropes, 
were  set  free  by  the  cayotes — a  species  of  animal  some- 
thing between  a  fox  and  a  dog — that  devour  leathtr 
with  avidity,  and  arc  ever  on  the  watch  to  procure  it. 
Wc  lost  several  of  these  ropes,  which  are  frequently 
converted  into  temporary  bridles  by  passing  them  from 
the  neck  around  the  nose  in  an  ingenious  manner,  com- 
pletely obviating  the  use  of  head-stalls  or  bit.  They 
are  often  of  the  handsomest  description,  and  chiefly 
made  of  leather,  which  the  cayotes  nibble  away  in  a 
very  short  time^  ten  minutes  at  most  sufficing  for  them 
to  entirely  demolish  the  most  solid  of  them.  It  may 
readily  be  imagined,  therefore,  that,  between  watching 


c 
0 

0 


:i: 


ADVKNTURES   JN    CALli'OilXIA. 


193 


for  cayotes  and  thieving  Indians,  oui  roposo  that  night 
was  not  of  the  soundest  kind,  and  that,  when  morning 
camo,  wo  were  none  of  us  much  refreshed. 

Mr.  Ryan  soon  afterwards  parted  coaipany  with 
all  of  his  friends  but  Ilalliday,  with  whom  he  jour- 
neyed towards  the  Stanislaus  mine.  When  near  the 
river  Stanislaus  the  two  adventurers  joined  a  larger 
party  headed  by  a  Spaniard  named  Don  Emanuel. 
Wo  Avill  let  Mr.  Ilyan  tell  how  things  went  at  the 
"  diggings"  of  Stanislaus. 

The  mine  was  a  deep  ravine,  embosomed  amidst 
lofty  hills,  surmounted  by  and  covered  with  pine,  and 
naving,  in  the  bottom  itself,  abundance  of  rock,  mud, 
and  sand.  Halliday  and  I  encamped  at  the  very 
lowest  part  of  the  ravine,  at  a  little  distance  from  Don 
Emanuel's  party ;  a  steep  rock  which  towered  above 
our  heads  affording  us  shelter,  and  a  huge,  fiat  stone 
beneath  our  feet  promising  a  fair  substitute  for  a  dry 
bed.  Here  then  wo  stretched  our  macheers  and  blankets, 
and  arranged  our  saddles  and  bags,  so  as  to  make  our 
selves  us  comfortable  and  warm  as  possible,  although, 
in  spite  of  our  precautions  and  contrivances,  and  of  a 
tolerably  good  fire,  our  encampment  was  bitterly  cold, 
and  we  lay  exposed  to  a  heavy  dew.  We  had  given 
up  our  horses  into  the  charge  of  the  Indians,  and  I  saw 
to  their  being  safely  placed  in  the  cavallard,  whilst 
Halliday  went  to  chop  wood ;  a  task  I  was  too  weak  to 
perform.  I  cannot  say  we  slept ;  we  might  more  cor- 
rectly be  said  to  have  had  a  long  and  most  uncomfortable 
doze,  and  when  morning  broke,  we  were  shivering  with 
cold,  and  shook  the  dew  in  a  shower  from  our  clothes. 
I  consulted  with  mv  companion,  and  urged  upon  him 

IT 


C 
0 
0 


194 


PEIlILOUa   ADVENTURES. 


the  prudence  of  our  setting  to  work  to  construct  our- 
selves a  sort  of  log  cabin ;  otherwise  I  felt  certain,  from 
the  experience  of  the  past  night,  our  sojourn  at  the 
mines  would  be  likely  to  prove  fatal  to  one  or  both  of 
us.  He  was,  however,  far  too  eager  to  try  his  fortune 
at  digging  to  listen  to  my  proposal,  at  which  he  even 
smiled,  probably  at  the  bare  idea  of  weather,  privation, 
or  toil,  being  able  to  affect  his  powerful  frame.  I  saw 
him  presently  depart  up  the  ravine,  shouldering  a  pick, 
and  glancing  now  and  then  at  his  knife,  whilst  I  pro- 
ceeded in  search  of  materials  for  constructing  a  tem- 
porary place  of  shelter. 

As  my  strength  was  unequal  to  the  task  of  felling 
timber,  I  endeavoured  to  procure  four  poles,  intending 
to  sink  them  into  the  ground,  and  to  stretch  on  the 
top  of  them  a  bed-tick  I  had  reserved  for  the  purpose. 
The  contrivance  was  a  sorry  one  at  the  best,  but  shelter 
was  indispensable ;  and  great  was  my  disappointment 
— though  I  procured  the  timber  after  a  painful  search 
— to  find  that  the  rocks  presented  an  insuperable  ob- 
stacle to  my  employing  it  as  I  intended.  My  efforts 
to  sink  the  poles  proved  utterly  futile,  and  I  was  at  last 
compelled  to  renounce  the  attempt  in  despair.  I  then 
packed  up  our  goods  into  as  close  a  compass  as  possible ; 
and,  having  requested  one  of  the  Spaniards  in  Don 
Emanuel's  party  to  keep  watch  over  them,  departed  to 
explore  the  ravine. 

Within  a  few  paces  of  our  encampment  there  was  a 
large  area  of  ground,  probably  half  a  mile  square,  the 
surface  of  which  consisted  of  dark  soil  and  slate,  and 
was  indented  with  innumerable  holes  of  every  possible 
dimension,  from  six  inehes  to  as  many  feet  or  more, 


ct  our- 
n,  from 

at  the 
both  of 
fortune 
he  even 
ivation, 
I  saw 

a  pick, 
ft  I  pro- 

a  tem- 

■  felling 
itending 

on  the 
>urpose. 
t  shelter 
)intment 
il  search 
able  ob- 
y  efforts 
s  at  last 
I  then 
jossible ; 

in  Don 
arted  to 

re  was  a 
lare,  the 
ate,  and 
possible 
)r  more, 


ADVKNTURES   IN    CALll-ORNIA. 


195 


I 


wide  and  deep.  In  all  of  these  lay  abundance  of  Avater, 
of  which  large  quantities  are  to  be  found  a  little  beneath 
the  surface,  the  ravine  being  supplied  with  it  in  great 
abundance  by  the  rains  that  pour  down  from  the  hills 
during  the  wet  season.  To  the  extreme  right  of  our 
camp,  the  ground  assumed  a  more  rocky  cliaracter ; 
and,  from  the  vast  deposit  of  stagnant  water,  did  not 
seem  to  offer  many  attractions  to  the  miner.  Yet 
there  was  scarcely  a  spot  in  any  of  these  places  where 
the  crow-bar,  the  pick,  or  the  jack-knife,  had  not  been 
busy :  evidence  that  the  whole  locality  must  have  been 
extremely  rich  in  the  precious  metal,  or  it  would  not 
have  been  so  thoroughly  worked. 

In  crossing  the  ravine,  I  was  obliged  to  leap  from 
one  mound  of  earth  to  another,  to  avoid  plunging  ancle- 
deep  in  mud  and  water.  It  was  AvhoUy  deserted  in 
this  part,  though  formerly  so  much  frequented ;  and, 
with  the  exception  of  a  fuw  traders,  who,  having  taken 
up  their  station  here  when  times  were  good,  had  not 
yet  made  airangeuionts  for  removing  to  a  more  produc- 
tive place,  not  a  soul  was  to  be  seen. 

I  walked  on  until  I  reached  the  trading  post  of  Mr. 
Anderson,  formerly  our  interpreter  in  the  Lower  Coun 
try,  whom  I  felt  delighted  to  meet  with  agnin.  His 
shed  Avas  situated  in  one  of  the  dam^jcst  parts  of  the 
mine,  and  consisted  of  a  few  upright  poles,  traversed 
by  croos-pieces,  and  covered  in  with  raw  hides  anil 
leaves,  but  yet  much  exposed  at  the  sides  to  the  wind 
and  the  weather.  ITo  had  a  few  barrels  of  flour  and 
biscuit,  which  he  retailed  at  two  dollars  a  pound ;  for 
he  made  no  difference  between  the  price  of  the  raw 
and  the  prepared  material.     The  flour  would  go  fur- 


196 


PERILOUS    ADVENTURES. 


tlier,  it  »vas  true ;  but  then  the  biscuit  required  no  cook- 
ing on  the  part  of  the  miner,  -whose  time  was  literally 
money,  and  "whose  interest  therefore  it  was  to  econo- 
mize it  in  every  possible  manner.  He  also  sold  unpre- 
pared coffee  and  sugar  at  six  Yankee  shillings  a  pound ; 
dried  beef  at  one  dollar  and  a  half;  and  pork,  which 
Avas  regarded  as  a  great  delicacy  here,  at  two  dollars 
for  the  same  weight.  The  various  articles  of  which  his 
stock-in-trade  consisted  he  had  brought  all  the  way 
from  Monterey  at  considerable  labour  and  expense; 
but,  by  the  exercise  of  extraordinary  tact,  perseverance, 
and  industry,  he  had  succeeded  in  establishing  a  flour- 
ishing business. 

I  discovered,  hoAvever,  that  he  possessed  another  re- 
source— by  which  his  gains  were  marvellously  increased 
— in  the  services  of  seven  or  eight  Indians,  whom  he 
kept  constantly  at  work,  in  the  rear  of  his  shed,  dig- 
ging gold,  and  whose  labour  he  remunerated  with  pro- 
visions, and  occasional  presents  of  articles  of  trifling 
value  to  him,  but  highly  csteeined  by  the  Indians. 
They  were  watched  by  an  American  overseer,  who  was 
cmploj'ed  by  him,  to  assist  him  in  \e  general  business, 
particularly  in  slaugiiteving ;  for,  as  beef  was  scarce, 
he  used  to  send  his  man  in  quest  of  cows  and  oxen ; 
wiiitli  lie  IuIkmIj  cut  up,  salted  and  dried,  in  his  shed, 
iiud  watching  the  most  favourable  moment  for  the 
t>{)eration — namely,  when  meat  could  not  be  procured 
at  the   "diggings" — never   failed  to  realize  his  own 

\):\VC:    \0V   it. 

i'rocecding  higher  up  the  ravine,  I  observed  a  large 
tent  erected  on  the  slope  of  a  hill,  within  a  few  yards 
of  the  bottom,  Avhere  the  gold  is  usually  feund.     It  was 


ADVENTURES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 


197 


0  cook- 
iterally 

econo- 

unpre- 
pound ; 
,  which 

dollars 
liich  his 
he  way 
xpense ; 
.erance, 

a  flour- 

)ther  rc- 
icreased 
v'hom  he 
led,  dig- 
ith  pro- 
trifling 
Indians, 
who  was 
msiness, 
scarce> 
d  oxen; 
lis  shed, 
for  the 
:)rocured 
his  own 

a  large 

[w  yarda 

It  was 


, 


surrounded  by  a  ti-cnch,  the  clay  from  which,  as  it  was 
dug  up,  had  apparently  been  throAvn  out  against  the 
canvass,  forming  a  kind  of  embankment,  rendering  it 
at  once  water  and  weather-proof.     I  ventured  into  it, 
encountering  on  my  way  an  immense  piece  of  raw  beef, 
suspended  from  the  ridge-pole.     Upon  some  stones  in 
front,  enclosing  a  small  fire,  stood  a  fryingpan,  filled 
with  rich-looking  beef  collops,  that  set  my  mouth  Avater- 
mg,  and  severely  tested  my  honesty ;   for,   although 
acorns  are  all  very  well  in  their  way,  and  serve  to  stay 
the  cravings  of  the  stomach  for  a  while,  I  did  not  find 
my  appetite  any  the  less  sharp,  notwithstanding  tho 
quantity  I  had  eaten.     But  I  resisted  the  temptation, 
and  penetrated  further  into  the  tent.     At  one  side  of 
it  lay  a  crow-bar  and  an  old  saddle  that  had  seen 
rough  service ;  yet  not  a  soul  appeared,  and  my  eyes 
were  again  ogling  the  collops,  whilst  an  inward  voice 
whispered  how  imprudent  it  was  to  leave  them  frizzling 
there,  when,  all  at  once,  a  little  man,  in  a  "  hickory  shirt," 
with  his  face  all  bedaubed  with  pot-black  and  grease, 
darted  out  from  some  dark  corner,  flourishing  in  one 
hand  a  long  bowie-knife,  and  in  the  other  three  by  no 
means  delicate  slices  of  fat  pork,  which  he   at  once 
dropped  into   the   fryingpan,   stooping  down   on   one 
knee,  and  becoming  immediately  absorbed  in  watching 
the  interesting  culinary  process  then  going  on  in  it. 

I  enjoyed  now  a  fair  opportunity  of  examining  his 
features,  and  felt  much  gratified  to  recognize  in  him 
one  of  my  former  companions,  the  smartest  man  of  his 
corps,  and  whom  I  had  last  seen  at  Monterey. 

"  Good  morning,  Firmore,"  said  I ;  "  I  wish  you  joy 
of  your  occupation." 

17* 


0 


198 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


He  started  up  from  his  Icnecs,  and  looked  at  me 
awhile  in  perfect  amazement;  then  rushing  upon  me 
with  such  earnestness  as  nearly  to  throw  me  down,  he 
shook  me  by  the  hand  until  I  thought  he  would  work 
my  arm  out  of  its  socket. 

"  What,  you  !"  he  exclaimed.  "Well,  well.  Who 
ever  would  have  thought  to  see  you  here !  How  did 
you  come,  and  where  did  you  start  from  ?  You  are 
lookini:'  all  the  worse  for  wear." 

"  I  can't  say  you  look  quite  as  dapper,  Firmore," 
replied  I,  "  as  you  did  the  day  we  went  ashore  at  Val- 
paraiso. But  I  suppose  you  have  no  cause  to  com- 
plain, for  you  appear  to  weather  it  well." 

"Oh,  I  don't  know  that  !"  he  responded:  "I  have 
had  but  indift'ercnt  luck.  For  several  days  after  I  got 
here,  I  did  not  make  any  thing ;  but  since  then  I  have, 
by  the  hardest  work,  averaged  about  seven  dollars  a 
day.  Wlien  you  consider  the  price  of  provisions,  the 
hardness  of  "the  labour,  and  the  wear  and  tear  of  body, 
mind,  and  clothes" — here  he  exhibited  his  rags — "you 
will  admit  that  this  is  but  poor  remuneration.  How- 
ever, I  live  in  hopes  of  getting  a  streak  of  luck  yet. 
I  am  now  cooking  for  our  party.  There  are  ten  of  us, 
and  amongst  the  rest  are  Van  Anken  and  Hughes. 
Van  has  been  immensely  fortunate.  Every  place  he 
touches  turns  to  gold  under  his  fingers.  Sometimes, 
after  exhausting  one  place,  he  tries  another  which  has 
been  abandoned,  and  I  have  known  him  pick  out  of  it 
seven  and  eight  ounces  a  day,  for  days  together.  One 
thing  is,  he  never  tires.  He  is,  as  you  know,  a  stout 
though  a  small-made  man,  with  a  constitution  as  tough 
fts  old  iron.     Ho  laughs  at  fever  and  ague,  and  goes 


ADVENTURES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


199 


to  sleep  by  the  side  of  them  as  though  they  were  first- 
rate  bedfellows.  It's  astonishing  the  number  of  men 
who  have  lost  a  fortune  through  these  two  complaints ; 
when  they're  touched,  good-bye.  If  their  "  diggin" 
were  ever  so  rich,  they're  obliged  to  desert  it ;  and, 
once  deserted,  why  not  even  their  own  brother 
would  respect  it.  Hughes,  now,  has  been  every  bit  as 
unlucky.  He  has  had  the  poorest  chance  of  all,  and  I 
don't  think  he  has  dug  more  than  five  ounces  ever  since 
he  came  here." 

"  I  should  have  thought  him  likelier  to  succeed  than 
any  other,"  I  observed;  "for  he  is  a  large  and  a 
strong-looking  man." 

"  Ah !  it's  more  luck  than  any  thing  else,"  replied 
he.  "  But,  luck  or  no  luck,  no  man  can  pick  up  gold, 
even  here,  without  the  very  hardest  labour,  and  that's 
a  fact.  Some  think  that  it's  only  to  come  here,  squat 
down  any  where,  and  pick  away.  But  tliey  soon  find 
out  their  mistake.  I  never  knew  what  hard  work  was 
until  I  came  here.  Talk  of  digging  on  the  canal ;  why, 
that's  easy,  comfortable  employment,  compared  to  dig- 
ging here  for  gold.  Any  where  else,  you  may  hope  to 
go  to  some  sort  of  a  home  at  night,  and  go  to  some- 
thing like  a  tolerable  bed,  where  you  may  lie  down 
snug  and  warm,  and  sleep  out  your  weariness.  But 
here,  why  every  hour  you  sleep,  you  are  losing ;  and 
that  notion  keeps  you  from  snoozing  even  when  it's  too 
dark  to  work.  However,  I've  made  up  my  mind  to 
stick  to  it  till  I've  made  enough  to  go  back  to  the 
^  States'  independent ;  or,  at  any  rate,  a  little  more  so 
than  when  I  came  out.     Ah  I  here  are  our  boys." 

I  'ooked  out  and  beheld  the  party  coming  down  the 


200 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


»avine,  with  crow-bars  over  their  shoulders  and  wash 
Dowls  under  their  arms.  Van  appeared  glad  to  meet 
with  me  again ;  and,  I  must  say,  that,  notwithstanding 
the  inordinate  selfishness  brought  into  action  by  the 
peculiar  circumstances  in  which  the  miners  were  placed, 
the  esprit-de-corps  of  the  volunteera  prevented  and 
alleviated  much  suffering  amongst  individuals.  They 
cordially  invited  me  to  breakfast,  but,  fearing  so  large 
a  party  was  not  over-abundantly  supplied  with  provi- 
sions, I  declined  their  offer  "vvith  many  thanks ;  and, 
bidding  them  good  morning,  proceeded  a  little  further. 
I  came  up  next  with  a  group  of  three  Sonoreans,  or 
inhabitants  of  Sonera,  busily  engaged  on  a  small  sandy ' 
flat — the  only  one  I  had  observed — at  the  bottom  of 
the  ravine.  There  was  no  water  near,  although  I 
noticed  several  holes  which  had  evidently  been  sunk  in 
quest  of  it.  These  men  were  actively  pursuing  a  pro- 
cess that  is  termed  "dry-washing."  One  was  shovel- 
ling up  the  sand  into  a  large  cloth,  stretched  out  upon 
the  ground,  and  which,  when  it  was  tolerably  well 
covered,  he  took  up  by  the  corners,  and  shook  until  the 
pebbles  and  larger  particles  of  stone  and  dirt  came  to 
4he  surface.  These  he  brushed  away  carefully  with 
Lis  hand,  repeating  the  process  of  shaking  and  clearing 
exntil  the  residue  was  sufficiently  fine  for  the  next  opera- 
tion. This  was  performed  by  the  other  men,  who, 
epositing  the  sand  in  large  bowls  hewn  out  of  a  solid 
block  of  wood,  which  they  held  in  their  hands,  dexter- 
ously cast  the  contents  up  before  them,  about  four  feet 
into  the  air,  catching  the  sand  again  very  cleverly,  and 
blowing  at  it  as  it  descended.  This  process  being 
repeated,  the  sand  gradually  disappeared ;  and  from 


ADVENTURES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


201 


:ter- 
feet 
and 
eing 
'rom 


two  to  three  ounces  of  pure  gold  remained  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bowl.  Easy  as  the  operation  appeared  to 
me  to  be,  1  learned,  upon  inquiry,  that  to  perform  it 
successfully  required  the  nicest  management,  the 
greatest  perseverance,  and  especially  robust  lungs 
The  men  I  saw  had  lighted  upon  a  productive  sand ; 
but  very  often,  indeed,  those  who  adopt  this  mode  of 
gold-washing  toil  long  at  barren  soil  before  they  dis- 
cover the  uselossness  of  labouring  thus  arduously. 

I  noticed,  that  although  the  largest  proportion  of  the 
gold  obtained  in  this  manner  presented  the  appearance 
of  a  fine  powder,  it  was  interspersed,  hero  and  there, 
with  large  scales  of  the  precious  deposit,  and  with  a 
few  solid  lumps.  The  metal  was  of  a  dingy  hue,  and, 
at  a  cursory  view,  might  easily  have  been  mistaken  foi 
particles  of  yellow  clay,  or  laniinre  of  stone  of  the  same 
colour.  The  Sonoreans  placed  the  product  of  their 
labour  in  buckskin  bags,  which  were  hung  around  their 
necks,  and  carefully  concealed  inside  of  their  shirts. 
They  work  in  this  fashion  at  the  mines  in  their  own 
country ;  but  I  doubt  if  any  other  than  a  native  con- 
stitution could  very  long  bear  up  against  the  peculiar 
labour  of  *■'  dry-washing"  in  such  a  climate  and  under 
such  difficult  circumstances.  I  felt  half  tempted  to 
try  the  process  myself,  for  the  surface  of  this  sandy 
bed  was  literally  sparkling  with  innumerable  particles 
of  the  finest  gold,  triturated  to  a  polish  by  the  running 
of  the  Avaters — as  I  conjectured :  but  I  soon  discovered 
how  fruitless  my  efforts  would  bo.  Had  I  possessed 
any  chemical  agents  at  hand,  however,  I  might  soon 
have  exhausted  the  bed  of  its  precious  contents,  and 
should,  doubtless,  have  realized  an  immense  weight  of 
the  metal  of  tho  very  purest  quality. 


202 


PERILOUS    ADVENTURES. 


Continuing  my  route  up  the  ravine,  I  met  a  man 
named  Corrigan,  galloping  along  with  two  fine  horses, 
one  of  which  he  was  leading.  lie  stopped  as  soon  as 
he  recognized  me,  and  we  were  soon  engaged  in  a  very 
interesting  conversation  respecting  the  doings  at  the 
'  diggings."  The  substance  of  his  information  was, 
that  he  had  m.ade  a  great  deal  of  money  at  the  mines 
by  digging,  but  infinitely  more  by  speculation.  lie 
thought  of  buying  a  ranche,  marrying,  and  settling 
down.  He  was  then  going  to  seek  for  pasture  for  his 
horses ;  and,  bidding  me  a  hasty  good  by,  galloped  off, 
and  soon  disappeared. 

As  I  advanced,  the  ground  became  drier  and  more 
sandy,  rock  and  slate  of  various  kinds  abounding ; 
some  quite  soft  and  friable,  yielding  readily  to  the 
pickaxe  or  the  crow-bar;  and,  in  other  jdaccs,  so  hard 
as  to  resist  the  utmost  stren2;th  of  the  miners.  Several 
of  the  diggers  wore  perseveringly  exploring  the  locali- 
ties where  the  rotten  sorts  of  slate  were  found  in  the 
largest  quantities,  and  I  saw  them  pick  out  a  good 
deal  of  gold  with  their  jack-knives.  Their  principal 
aim  was  to  discover  what  they  termed  "a  pocket," 
which  is  nothing  more  than  a  crevice  between  the  blocks 
of  slate,  into  which  a  deposit  of  gold  has  been  washed 
by  the  heavy  rains  from  the  higher  districts,  and  which. 
Boon  accumulating,  swell  into  rapid  torrents,  which  rush 
down  these  ravines  with  extraordinary  swiftness  and 
force,  SAVceping  every  thing  before  them. 

There  did  not  appear  to  be  many  mining  parties  at 
the  Stanislaus  at  this  particular  period,  for  the  encamp- 
ments were  generally  from  two  to  five  miles  apart,  the 
space  between  them  increasing  the  higher  you  advanced 


ADVENTURES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


203 


towards  the  mountains,  to  the  foot  of  which  the  ravine 
extended — altogether,  a  distance  of  many  miles.  The 
lower  part  of  the  mine,  I  concluded  from  this  fact,  to 
be  by  far  the  richer,  simply  from  the  circumstance  I 
have  mentioned :  richer,  comparatively,  because  hero 
the  deposits  of  gold  are  more  easily  found  and  ex 
tracted ;  not  riclier,  in  reality,  as  the  metal  must  exist 
in  immense  quantities  in  the  upper  regions,  from  which 
it  is  washed  down  by  the  rains  and  floods  into  the  lower 
districts.  The  virgin  deposit  would,  doubtless,  be  diffi- 
cult to  come  at ;  but,  if  sought  after  at  all,  that  it  is 
to  be  sought  in  the  mountains  and  high  lands,  I  feel 
persuaded. 

I  turned  back,  after  prosecuting  my  excursion  until 
the  ravine  became  almost  too  rocky  to  allow  me  to 
proceed,  and  until  I  saw  that  the  "diggings"  dimin- 
ished materially  in  number.  On  clambering  the  hills 
at  the  side,  I  beheld  abundance  of  pines,  oak,  cedar, 
and  palm ;  but  no  grass,  nor  vegetation  of  any  other 
kind,  save  prickly  shrubs,  with  here  and  there  a  patch 
of  extremely  dry  moss.  On  my  way  back,  I  passed 
several  tents  and  huts  erected  by  the  miners,  all  of  the 
very  poorest  and  most  wretched  description. 

I  found  Van  Anken's  party  at  dinner,  in  front  of 
their  tent.  Van  showed  me  a  leathern  bag,  containing 
several  pounds'  weight  of  very  pure  gold,  and  wliioli 
was  carelessly  tossed  about  from  one  to  the  other  for 
examination.  It  was  the  produce  of  his  mornii)':;'s 
work,  he  having  fortunately  struck  upon  a  large 
pocket. 

On  inquiring  whether,  as  there  existed  such  strong 
•temptation,  robberies  were  not  very  frequent,  I  was 


0 
0 


204 


PERILOUS   ADVKNTUIIES. 


informed,  tliat,  although  thefts  had  occurred,  yet; 
generally  speaking,  the  miners  dwelt  in  no  distrust  of 
one  another,  and  left  thousands  of  dollars'  worth  in  gold- 
dust  in  their  tents  whilst  they  were  absent  digging 
They  all  felt,  intuitively,  that  honesty  ivas  literally  the 
best  policy,  and  a  determination  to  punish  robberjf 
seemed  to  have  been  come  to  by  all  as  a  measure  essen 
tial  to  the  security  and  welfare  of  the  mining  commu- 
nity, independent  of  any  question  of  principle. 

Gambling  and  drinking  were  carried  on,  I  found,  to 
a  most  demoralizing  extent.  Erandy  and  champagne, 
whenever  they  were  brought  to  the  "  diggings,"  realized 
enormous  prices,  varying  from  sixteen  to  twenty  dollars 
a  bottle ;  and  some  of  the  men  would,  after  accumula- 
ting some  hundred  dollars,  squander  the  whole  in  pur- 
chasing these  beverages.  Believing  the  supply  of  gold 
to  be  inexhaustible,  they  persisted  in  this  reckless  course, 
and  discovered  only  when  it  became  too  late  to  redeem 
tkoir  error,  that  even  here  gold  cannot  always  be  pro- 
cured. They  went  on  until  the  jj/acc'rs  failed  to  yield, 
and  were  then  reduced  to  great  extremities. 

The  miners  were  by  no  means  averse  to  lending 
"dust"  to  those  who  required  it,  notwithstanding  that 
the  lenders  often  experienced  some  difficulty  in  getting 
back  the  advance.  One  of  Van's  party,  for  instance, 
lent  another  six  ounces  of  gold,  which  not  being  re- 
turned at  the  stipulated  period,  nor  for  some  time 
afterwards,  he  dunned  his  debtor  at  every  meal,  until 
the  latter,  who  had  quietly  submitted  to  the  importu- 
nity, begged  hnn  to  "just  wait  ten  minutes,  and  time 
it."  lie  shouldered  his  pickaxe,  as  he  said  this,  and 
going  out  of  the  shed,  returned  within  the  time,  bring- 


»^ 

> 

o 
p 


H 


I 


c 


<n 


f 


advi:m'Uui;s  in  caliiuunia. 


207 


mg   ()!iclc  more  than  suflTicient  to  liquidate  tlit)  debt. 
This  little  incident  created  much  amusement. 

Mr.  llyan  was  not  very  succesaful  in  his  search  for 
2;()ld.  Sickness  was  a  great  drawback  to  him.  At 
length,  Avhen  his  supply  of  provisions  was  nearly  ex 
hausted  and  his  prospects  very  gloomy,  ho  embracea 
an  opportunity  to  leave  tho  mines  and  proceed  to 
Stockton,  the  depot  of  tho  southern  portion  of  tho  gold 
region.  From  that  place,  ho  proceeded  to  Sacramento, 
and  thenco  to  San  Francisco,  at  tho  rapid  growth  of 
which  ho  was  naturally  amazed.  His  description  of 
this  new  city  and  account  of.  his  own  adventures  in  it 
may  be  quoted  as  particularly  interesting : — 

On  landing,  I  had  to  clamber  up  a  steep  hill,  on  the 
top  of  A\aich,  and  opposite  to  where  I  stood,  was  a  largo 
wooden  house,  two  stories  high,  and  scarcely  half 
finished.  In  the  rear  of  this,  rose  another  and  a 
steeper  hill,  whose  slopes  were  covered  with  a  multi- 
plicity of  tents.  To  my  right,  ran  a  sort  of  steep,  or 
precipice,  defended  by  sundry  pieces  of  cannon,  which 
commanded  tho  entrance  to  the  harbour.  I  next  came 
to  the  "Point,"  and,  crossing  it,  found  myself  within 
the  town. 

Tho  first  objects  that  attracted  my  notice  "were 
several  canvass  houses,  measuring  from  ten  to  forty 
feet  square,  some  being  grog-shops,  others  eating  esta- 
blishments, and  tho  larger  set  apart  as  ware-houses,  or 
places  of  storage.  The  proprietors  of  tho  latter  were 
making  enormous  sums  by  the  accommodation  their 
tents  afibrded  to  the  hundreds  of  travellers  who  were 
arriving  every  day  from  different  parts,  and  who,  being 
extremely  embarrassed  as  to  what  they  should  do  with 


0 

in 


208 


I'Killl.OL'.S    ADVH.NTUHHS. 


I  I 


their  luggage,  wore  lieartily  glad  to  find  any  safe  place 
to  store  it  in,  and  content  to  pay  for  tuc  convenience. 
As  I  passed  another  half-completed  wooden  structure, 
I  thought  I  would  venture  upon  an  inquiry,  just  by 
way  of  ascertaining  whether  I  had  any  chance  of  pro- 
curing employment  as  a  house-painter.  I  was  offered 
thirty-six  dollars  a-week ;  an  offer  I  did  not  immedi- 
ately accept,  notwithstanding  the  favourable  reception 
I  met  with. 

The  spectacle  which  the  beach  presented  from  a  con- 
venient opening,  Avhence  I  could  comprise  the  whole  at 
a  glance,  was  singularly  interesting  and  curious.  A 
crowd  of  individuals,  in  motley  garb,  and  of  every 
variety  of  race,  might  be  seen  pressing  eagerly  upward 
towards  the  town,  jostling  and  pushing  one  anoth».r,  in 
their  anxiety  to  be  first,  yet  looking  eagerly  about 
them,  as  if  to  familiarize  themselves  at  once  with  the 
country  of  thei"  adoption.  Here  were  dandies  from 
tlio  United  States  and  from  France,  picking  their  steps 
mincingly,  as  they  strove  to  keep  pace  with  the  sturdy 
fellows  who  carried  their  luggage ;  their  beaver  hats, 
fashionable  frock-coats,  irreproachable  and  well-strapped 
pantaloons,  exciting  the  derisive  remarks  of  the  spec- 
tiitors,  the  majority  of  them  "old  Californians,"  whose 
roii!i;h  labour  at  the  "diggings"  had  taught  them  to 
estimate  such  niaiseries  at  their  proper  value.  By 
their  side  stalked  the  stately  and  dignified  Spaniard, 
covered  with  his  broad-brimmed,  low-crowned  somhrerOy 
and  gracefully  enveloped  in  his  amj)lo  scrapa,  set  off 
by  a  bright  scarlet  sash.  He  turns  neither  to  the  I'ight 
nor  to  the  left,  nor  heeds  the  croAvd  about  him,  but 
keeps  on  the  even  t«nour  of  his  way — though  even  he 


fkMSS^- 


R 


! 


ADVENTURES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


209 


pliice 
lieiice. 
icturc, 
ist  by 
)f  pro- 
offered 
ninedi- 
jeption 

a  con- 
hole  at 
us.     A 
F  every 
upward 
th^r,  in 
J  about 
nth  the 
33  from 
u'  steps 
sturdy 
r  hats, 
[trapped 
e  spec- 
'  whoso 
hem  to 
e.     By 
laniard, 
[nibrero^ 
set  off 
le  right 
|im,  but 
3vea  he 


has  occasionally  to  jump  for  it — presenting,  in  his 
demeanour  and  costume,  a  striking  contrast  to  the  more 
bustling  activity  of  the  Yankees,  who  are  elbowing 
every  one,  in  their  anxiety  to  go  a-head.  A  lot  of 
shopboys,  too,  mere  lads,  as  spruce  and  neatly  attired 
as  though  they  had  just  stepped  out  of  some  fashion- 
able emporium,  mingle  with  the  rest,  and,  as  they 
enter  the  town,  strike  up  the  popular  parody — 

"Oh,  California!     That's  tho  land  for  me  I 
I'm  bound  for  the  Sacramento,  with 
The  wash-bowl  on  my  knee." 

I  walked  on  until  I  came  up  to  a  group  of  men,  who, 
like  myself,  were  looking  on  the  busy  scene  before  us 
with  no  small  degree  of  interest.  I  recognised  amongst 
them  two  of  the  volunteers,  with  whom  I  forthwith 
claimed  acquaintance.  The  whole  party  had  come 
from  the  mines,  as  was  easily  to  be  seen  from  their 
appearance,  which  was  something  the  worse  for  wear, 
their  countenances  being  weather-beaten  and  bronzed 
by  exposure  ;  whilst  their  attire,  consisting  of  buckskin 
coats,  leather  leggings,  and  broad-brimmed  hats,  de- 
noted the  sort  of  labour  in  which  they  had  been  re- 
cently engaged.  I  learned  from  them,  in  the  course 
of  a  subsequent  conversation,  that  they  had  all  of  them 
been  successful  at  the  "diggings."  One  of  the  number 
had  made,  or  "  picked,"  two  thousand  dollars,  and  the 
rest,  from  that  to  nine  thousand  dollars  each,  within 
the  space  of  a  few  months.  With  this,  however,  they 
were  far  from  satisfied,  most  of  them  being  determined 
to  realize  a  large  fortune  before  they  quitted  the  coun- 

18* 


210 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


III! 


try ;  for  not  one  of  them  seemed  to  have  the  remotest 
intention  of  settling. 

An  individual  of  tliis  number,  nevertheless,  was  com- 
pelled to  remain  longer  than  ho  anticipated ;  for, 
having  returned  to  the  mines,  and  there  procured  as 
much  gold  as  satisfied  him,  he  was  robbed  of  the  whole, 
on  his  way  back  to  San  Francisco.  He  thereupon 
coolly  went  back  to  the  "  diggings,"  and  recommenced 
his  labours;  with  what  success  I  know  not;  but  ho 
remained  there  during  the  whole  period  of  my  sojourn 
in  the  country. 

The  party  had  come  down  from  the  mines  to  make 
purchases,  and  to  enjoy  a  little  recreation.  They  were 
admirable  specimens  of  their  class — hardy  in  appear- 
ance, and  rough  in  demeanour;  but  shrewd,  withal, 
and  toil-enduring.  For  the  momont,  their  conversation 
turned  upon  the  prospects  of  the  newly-landed  emi- 
grants— for  I  should  have  stated  that  there  were  one 
or  two  arrivals  in  the  harbour — and  they  were  unspar- 
ing of  their  remarks  upon  such  of  the  new-comers  as 
by  their  dress,  or  any  physical  peculiarity,  offered  a 
fair  target  for  their  witticisms,  which  were  not  less 
pointed  than  coarse. 

With  regard  to  tho  town  towards  which  all  wero 
pressing,  they  expressed  a  unanimous  opinion.  It 
was  the  most  wonderful  place  in  the  world — for  its  size 
— o.nd  promised,  if  it  continued  to  progress  in  impor 
tance  and  extent  as  rapidly  as  it  had  done  of  late,  to 
eclipse  some  of  its  rivals  of  more  ancient  date ;  inas 
much  as  civilization  was  imported  to  it  full-grown, 
backed  by  all  the  energy  and  enterprise  which  gold 


ADVKNTURKS    IN   CALIFORNIA. 


211 


remotest 

was  coin- 
ed ;  for, 
)cured  as 
he  whole, 
hereupon 
mmenced 
;  hut  ho 
y  sojourn 

I  to  make 
l?hey  ■were 
ti  appear- 
d,  withal, 
iversation 
ided  emi- 
were  ono 
e  unsp»r- 
comers  as 
offered  a 
not  less 


could  inspire,  or  the  possession  of  it  in  almost  unlimited 
(jtiautities  develop. 

[  passed  my  first  night  in  San  Francisco  stretched 
ujxjii  a  form,  in  a  tavern,  where  the  boisterous  mirth 
of  a  rude  crowd  of  revellers  cflcctually  prevented  mo 
from  dreaming  of  any  thing  else  but  drums  and  cymbals 
clattering  in  most  execrable  confusion  and  discord. 
Once  I  thought  I  was  drowning ;  for  I  experienced 
the  peculiar  roaring  sensation  of  deafness  incidental  to 
immersing  one's  head  in  the  water ;  but,  on  awakening, 
1  found  that  ono  of  the  company,  being  waggishly 
inclined,  had  poured  some  of  the  liquor  he  was  drink- 
ing into  my  ear.  I  thought  it  a  very  poor  joke,  but 
laughed  at  it  as  though  1  very  much  relished  it ;  and, 
altering  my  position,  dozed  oft'  again,  and  remained  in 
a  dog's  sleep  until  the  morning 


all  were 
mion.  It 
or  its  size 
in  impor 
)f  late,  to 
ite ;  inas 
lU-grown, 
^lich  gold 


.>'i(^m{mm;.mM.m^i'& 


ROUGHING  IT  IN  CANADA. 

'^,,<<g:?ij*^  RS.  MOODIE,  sister  to  Miss  Strick- 
W|,;^-^(  land  wlio  Avrote  the  Lives  of 
^^||^''-V^  t^^*^  Queens  of  Ennjland,  has  re- 
|kX^  cently  given  the  world  a  lively  re- 
lation of  her  life  in  the  wildest  part 
of  Canada,*  whither  she  aecom< 
panied  her  husband  as  an  emigrant 
and  settlor.  Brought  up  among  the  refinements  of 
civilized   society,  this  lady  submitted  with  admirable 

*  The  work  is  entitled  Rougliiiig  it  in  the  Bush,  and  has  just 
been  pnblislied  by  George  P.  rutnam,  New  York. 

(•212) 


>•'' 


iO 


IS  Strick- 
lives  of 
has  re- 
ively  ro- 
les t  part 
!  accom- 
EJmigrant 
lents  of 
dmirable 


i  has  just 


«11!; 


m 


< 

o 

O 
o 

Hi 

W 

H 


^ 


I 


;i',)UGiiiiNa    IT   IN    CANADA. 


215 


^/ 


/  .1 


grace  to  all  tKc  labour  and  privation  of  a  settler  in  the 
backwoods.  Mr.  Moodie  ^^'as  a  lialf-pay  officer  in  the 
British  army,  and  sought  a  settlement  in  Canada,  with 
a  view  fa  the  interests  of  his  children.  At  first  they 
lived  in  a  village ;  but  a  large  grant  of  lands  in  the 
backivoods  tempted  Mr.  Moodie  to  become  a  pioneer. 
Hy  was  induced  to  sell  out  his  half  pay,  was  cheated 
out  of  the  money  which  it  brought,  and  of  his  other 
available  means,  and  he  was  obliged  to  live  in  a  log  hut, 
and  to  depend  upon  his  labour  on  his  wild  farm  for  the 
.support  of  himself  and  his  family.  An  appointment  of 
sheriff  from  the  Canadian  government  finally  afforded 
biui  a  li;uid:same  support,  and  enabled  him  to  leave  his 
log  cabin,  and  reside  in  comparative  ease  and  comfort 
in  one  of  the  large  towns.  ' 

The  folloAving  account  of  one  of  the  adventures  of  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Moodie,  will  afford  the  reader  a  specimen  of 
the  perils  attendant  upon  "lougiiing  it  in  the  bush." 

Still,  with  all  these  misfo  tuno.s,  Providence  watched 
over  us  in  a  signal  mamer.  We  were  never  left 
entirely  without  food.  Like  the  widow's  cruise  of  oil, 
our  means,  though  small,  Avere  never  suffered  to  cease 
entirely.  We  had  been  for  some  days  without  meat, 
when  Moodie  came  running  in  for  his  gun.  A  great 
she-bear  was  in  the  wheat-field  at  the  edge  of  the  wood, 
very  busily  employed  in  helping  to  harvest  the  crop. 
There  was  but  one  bullet,  and  a  charge  or  two  of  buck 
shot,  in  the  house ;  but  Moodie  started  to  the  wood 
.•ith  the  single  bullet  in  his  gun,  followed  by  a  little 

terrier  dog  that  belonged  to  John  E .     Old  Jenny 

was  busy  at  the  wash-tub,  but  the  moment  she  saw  her 
master  running  up  the  clearing,  and  knew  the  cause, 


216 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURKS. 


'iiiii. 


she  left  her  work,  and  snatching  up  the  carving-knife, 
ran  after  him,  that  in  case  the  bear  should  have  the 
best  of  the  fight,  she  would  be  there  to  help  "  the  mas- 
ther."  Finding  her  shoes  incommode  her,  she  flung 
them  off,  in  order  to  run  faster.  A  few  minutes  after, 
came  the  report  of  the  gun,  and  I  heard  Moodie  halloo 

to  E ,  who  was  cutting  stakes  for  a  fence  in  the 

wood.  I  hardly  thought  it  possible  that  he  could  have 
killed  the  bear,  but  I  ran  to  the  door  to  listen.  The 
children  were  all  excitement,  which  the  sight  of  the 
black  monster,  borne  down  the  clearing  upon  two  poles, 
increased  to  the  wildest  demonstrations  of  joy.  Moodie 
and  John  were  carrying  the  prize,  and  old  Jenny, 
brandishing  her  carving-knife,  followed  in  the  rear. 

The  rest  of  Jhe  evening  was  spent  in  skinning  and 
cutting  up  and  salting  the  ugly  creature,  whose  flesh 
filled  a  barrel  with  excellent  meat,  in  flavour  resembling 
beef,  while  the  short  grain  and  juicy  nature  of  the  flesh 
gave  to  it  the  tenderness  of  mutton.  This  was  quite  a 
Godsend,  and  las^od  us  until  we  were  able  to  kill  two 
large,  fat  hogs,  in  the  fall. 

A  few  nights  after,  Moodie  and  I  encountered  the 
mate  of  Mrs.  Bruin,  while  returning  from  a  visit  to 
Emilia,  in  the  very  depth  of  the  wood. 

We  had  been  invited  to  meet  our  friend's  father  and 
mother,  who  had  come  up  on  a  short  visit  to  the  woods ; 
and  the  evening  passed  away  so  pleasantly  that  it  was 
near  midnight  before  the  little  party  of  friends  sepa- 
rated. The  moon  was  down.  The  wood  through  which 
we  had  to  return,  was  very  dark ;  the  ground  being  low 
and  swampy,  and  the  trees  thick  and  tall.  There  was, 
in  particular,  one  very  ugly  spot,  where  a  small  creek 


RoUGiriNQ    IT    IN    CANADA. 


217 


crossed  the  road.  This  creek  could  only  be  passed  by 
foot-passengers  scrambling  over  a  fallen  tree,  which,  in 
a  dark  night,  w  s  not  very  easy  to  find.     I  begged  a 

torch  of  Mr.  M ;  but  no  torch  could  be  found. 

Emilia  laughed  at  my  fears;  still,  knowing  what  a 
coward  I  was  in  the  bush  of  a  night,  she  found 
about  an  inch  of  candle,  which  was  all  that  remained 
from  the  evening's  entertainment.  This  she  put  into 
an  old  lantern. 

"It  will  not  last  you  long;  but  it  will  carry  you 
over  the  creek." 

This  was  something  gained,  and  off  we  set.  It  was 
so  (l.-n-k  in  the  bush,  that  our  dim  candle  looked  like  a 
Kulitary  red  spark  in  the  intense  surrounding  darkness, 
and  scarcely  served  to  show  us  the  path.  We  went 
chatting  along,  talking  over  the  news  of  the  evening, 
Hector  running  on  before  us,  when  I  saw  a  pair  of  eyes 
glare  upon  us  from  the  edge  of  the  s'',vamp,  with  the 
green,  bright  light  emitted  by  the  eyes  of  a  cat. 

"Did  you  see  those  terrible  eyes,  Moodie?"  and  I 
clung,  trembling,  to  his  arm. 

"What  eyes?"  said  he,  feigning  ignorance.  "It's 
too  dark  to  see  any  thing.  The  light  is  nearly  gone, 
and,  if  you  don't  quicken  your  pace,  and  cross  the  tree 
before  it  goes  out,  you  will,  perhaps,  get  your  feet  wet 
by  falling  into  the  creek." 

"  Good  heavens !  I  saw  them  again ;  and  do  just  look 
at  the  dog." 

Hector  stopped  suddenly,  and,  stretching  himself 
along  the  ground,  his  nose  resting  between  his  fore- 
paws  began  to  whine  and  tremble.  Presently  he  ran  back 
to  us,  and  crept  under  our  feet.     The  cracking  of 

10 


218 


I'KRILOUS    ADVi:NTUUr:S. 


I  i  I 


II 


brancliGS,  .and  tlio  heavy  tread  of  aotne  large  animal 
sounded  close  beside  us. 

Moodio  turned  the  open  lantern  in  the  direction  from 
whence  the  sounds  came,  Jind  shouted  ns  loud  as  he 
could,  at  the  same  time  endeavouring  to  urge  forward 
the  fear-stricken  dog,  whose  cowardice  was  only  equalled 
by  my  own. 

Just  at  that  critical  moment  the  wick  of  the  candle 
flickered  a  moment  in  the  socket,  and  expired.  Wo 
were  left  in  perfect  darkness,  alone  Avith  the  bear — for 
such  we  supposed  the  animal  to  be. 

IMy  heart  boat  audibly;  a  cold  perspiration  was 
streaming  down  my  face,  but  I  neither  shrieked  nor 
attempted  to  run.  I  don't  know  how  Moodie  got  me 
over  the  creek.  One  of  my  feet  slipped  into  the  water, 
but,  expecting  as  I  did  every  moment,  to  bo  devourec' 
by  master  Bruin,  that  was  a  thing  of  no  consequence. 
My  husband  was  laughing  at  my  fears,  and  every  now 
and  then  he  turned  towards  our  companion,  who  con- 
tinued following  us  at  no  great  distance,  and  ga\'c  him 
an  encouraging  shout.  Glad  enough  was  I  when  I  saw 
the  gleam  of  the  light  from  our  little  cabin  window 
shine  out  among  the  trees ;  .and  the  moment  I  got 
within  the  clearing,  I  ran,  without  stopping,  until  I  was 
safely  within  the  house.  John  was  sitting  up  for  us, 
nursing  Donald.  He  listened  with  great  interest  to 
our  adventure  with  the  bear,  and  thought  that  Bruin 
was  very  good  to  let  us  escape  without  one  aflfectionatG 
hug. 

"Perhaps  it  would  have  been  otherwise  had  he 
known,  Moodie,  that  you  had  not  only  killed  his  good 


witl 

son 

a 


ll()U(llll.N<i    IT    IN    CANADA. 


219 


lady,  but  were  dining  sumptuously  off  her  carcass 
every  day." 

The  bear  was  dctcrminc'd  to  liavc  sometliin^  in 
return  for  the  loss  of  bis  wife.  Sevcn-al  nights  after 
this,  our  sluuibnrs  were  distiu'bod  about  midnight,  by  an 
awful  3'ell,  and  old  Jenny  sIkjoIc  violently  at  our  cham- 
ber door. 

"  jNIastber,  masthor,  dear  ! — Get  up  wid  you  this 
moment,  or  the  bear  will  (k'sthro}'  the  cattle  intircly." 

Half  asleep,  INIoodie  .sprang  from  his  bed,  seized  his 
gun,  and  ran  out.  I  threw  my  large  cloak  round  me, 
ytruck  a  light,  and  followed  him  to  the  door.  The 
ujoment  the  latter  was  unclosed,  some  calves  that  we 
were  rearing  rushed  into  the  kitchen,  closely  followed 
by  the  larger  beasts,  who  came  bellowing  headlong 
down  the  hill,  pursued  by  the  bear. 

It  was.  a  laughable  scene  as  shown  by  that  paltry 
tallow-candle.  Moodie,  in  his  night  shirt,  taking  aim 
at  something  in  the  darkness,  surrounded  by  the  terri- 
fied animals  ;  old  Jenny,  with  a  large  knife  in  her  hand, 
holding  on  to  the  white  skirts  of  her  master's  garment, 
making  outcry  loud  enough  to  frighten  away  all  the 
wild  beasts  in  the  bush — herself  almost  in  a  state  of 
nudity. 

"  Och,  maisthcr,  dear !  don't  timpt  the  ill-condi- 
tioned eiathur  wid  charging  too  near;  think  of  the  wife 
and  the  cliildhor.  Let  me  come  at  the  rampaging 
baste,  an'  I'll  stick  the  knife  into  the  heart  of  him." 

Moodie  fired.  The  bear  retreated  up  the  clearing, 
with  a  low  growl.  Moodie  and  Jenny  pursued  him 
some  way,  but  it  was  too  dark  to  discern  any  object  at 
a  distance.     I,  for  my  part,  stood  at  the  open  door, 


220 


I'F-UILO L'S   A D V  KNT IJ KliS. 


€:\ 


lau;^liin<^  until  tlio  tears  laii  down  my  cliook.s,  at  tlio 
glaring  eyes  of  tlio  oxen,  ilioir  cars  erect,  and  their 
tails  carried  gracefully  on  a  level  with  ilieir  backs,  as 
they  stared  at  me  and  the  light  in  l)laid<  astoiiislimcnt. 

The  noise  of  the  gun  had  just  roused  John  E from 

Iiid  slumbers,  llo  >vas  no  less  amused  than  myself, 
until  he  saw  that  a  line  ye'.rling  heifer  was  bleeding, 
and  found,  upon  examination,  that  the  poor  animal, 
having  been  in  the  claws  of  the  bear,  was  dangerously, 
if  not  mortally  hurt. 

"I  hope,"  ho  cried,  "that  the  brute  has  not  touched 
my  foal !"  I  pointed  to  the  black  face  of  the  filly 
peeping  over  the  back  of  an  elderly  cow. 

"You  sec,  John,  that  Bruin  preferred  veal ;  there's 
your  'horsey,'  as  Dunbar  calls  her,  safe  and  laughing 
at  you." 

Moodie  and  Jenny  now  returned  from  the  pursuit  of 

the  bear.     E fastened  all  the  cattle  into  the  back 

yard,  close  to  the  house.  By  daylight  he  and  Moodie 
luid  started  in  chase  of  Bruin,  whom  they  tracked  by 
his  blood  some  way  into  the  bush ;  but  here  he  entirely 
escaped  their  search. 


.±^ 


tlio 

lioir 

'    ,.'■  ■ 

,  as 

cut. 

'    '   ^ 

i-om 

'          -     ■      T                      ,'       '                                    ,■.■-', 

self, 

t 

mal, 

-'    . 

.,                   "      ' 

isly, 

■.               -"'^^ir"-'           '  -•     - 

;hed 

'■  . ; ' 

,,.■-  - 

filly 
n-e's 

■   0   ' 

^■'  '/' '^*' ■■■•■■  ■• 

1" 

hiiig 
t  of 

■          ■  1- 

,■-■■-■■'*'"       ;i'                                 ■    '^     .'        •  :,      ■ 

( 

jnck 

.. 

■  ■■^•v's/-'    ■'•  ,'■    ■  ■"'■  '■"     ,-■■     ' 

odio 

-    T        C         "          ' 

.     ^      -    v--i#''    .,. -,     ..,.  ,    ■  ..    ■ 

I  by 
rely 

\ 

_'  ft 

\0 


« 


l,'l' 


lilwittBftj^iiiiiljijW^iiltiii'-  • 


M 

a 

Ml 
l-t 

M 


n 


THE  INDIANS   OF   CANADA. 

,<:£:^^a:-r|sS^^--i^s'-SS  HE  following  account    of 

tliP  Indians  of  Canada, 
who  occasionally  visited 
Mr.  Moodic's  residence 
in  the  bush,  is  extremely 
intercstin'T.  It  is  a  true 
and  graphic  delineation 
of  their  real  character. 

It  was  not  long  before 
we  received  visits  from 
the  Indians,  a  people  whose  beauty,  talents,  and  good 
qualities  have  been  somewhat  overrated,  and  invested 
with  a  poetical  interest  Avhich  they  scarcely  deserve. 
Their  honesty  and  love  of  truth  ai-e  the  finest  traits  in 
characters  otherwise  dark  and  unlovely.    But  tlieso  are 


-1  t;." 


224 


PEKILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


«:'i 


II;!  I 


Hi!  I 


two  God-like  attributes,  and  from  them  spring  all  that 
is  generous  and  ennobling  about  them. 

There  never  was  a  people  more  sensible  of  kindness, 
or  more  grateful  for  any  little  act  of  benevolence  exer- 
cised towards  them.  We  met  them  with  confidence ;  our 
dealings  with  them  were  conducted  with  the  strictest 
integrity;  and  they  became  attached  to  our  persons, 
and  in  no  single  instance  ever  destroyed  the  good 
opinion  we  entertained  of  them.  .^. 

The  tribes  that  occupy  the  shores  of  all  these  inland 
waters,  back  of  the  great  lakes,  belong  to  the  Chippewa 
or  Missasagua  Indians,  perhaps  the  least  attractive  of 
all  these  wild  people,  both  with  regard  to  their  physical 
and  mental  endowments.  The  men  of  this  tribe  are 
generally  small  of  stature,  with  very  coarse  and  repul- 
sive features.  The  forehead  is  low  and  retreating,  the 
observing  faculties  large,  the  intellectual  ones  scarcely 
developed :  the  ears  large,  and  standing  oflF  from  the 
face;  the  eyes  looking  towards  the  temples,  keen, 
snake-like,  and  far  apart ;  the  uheck-bones  prominent ; 
the  nose  long  and  flat,  the  nostrils  very  round;  the 
jaw-bone  projecting,  massy,  and  brutal;  the  mouth 
expressing  ferocity  and  sullen  determination ;  the  teeth 
large,  even,  and  dazzlingly  white.  The  mouth  of  the 
female  differs  widely  in  expression  from  that  of  the 
male ;  the  lips  are  fuller,  the  jaw  less  projecting,  and 
the  smile  is  simple  and  agreeable.  The  women  are  a 
merry,  light-hearted  set,  and  their  constant  laugh  and 
incessant  prattle  form  a  strange  contrast  to  the  iron 
taciturnity  of  their  grim  lords. 

Now  I  am  upon  the  subject,  I  will  recapitulate  a  few 


THE   INDIANS   OF   CANADA. 


225 


;e  a  few 


traits  and  sketches  of  these  people,  as  they  came  under 
my  own  immediate  observation. 

A  dry  cedar  swamp,  not  far  from  the  house,  by  the 
lake  shore,  had  been  their  usual  place  of  encampment 
for  many  years.  The  whole  block  of  land  was  almost 
entirely  covered  with  maple-trees,  and  had  originally 
been  an  Indian  sugar-bush.  Although  the  favourite 
spot  had  now  passed  into  the  hands  of  strangers,  they 
still  frequented  the  place,  to  make  canoes  and  baskets, 
to  fish  and  shoot,  and  occasionally  to  follow  their  old 
occupation.  Scarcely  a  week  passed  away  without  my 
being  visited  by  the  dark  strangers ;  and  as  my  hus- 
band never  allowed  them  to  eat  with  the  servants,  but 
brought  them  to  his  own  table,  they  soon  grew  friendly 
and  communicative,  and  would  point  to  every  object 
that  attracted  their  attention,  asking  a  thousand  ques- 
tions as  to  its  use,  the  material  of  v/hich  it  was  made, 
and  if  we  were  inclined  to  exchange  it  for  their  commo- 
dities ?  With  a  large  map  of  Canada,  they  were  infi- 
nitely delighted.  In  a  moment  they  recognised  every 
bay  and  headland  in  Ontario,  and  almost  screamed 
with  delight  when,  following  the  course  of  the  Trent 
with  their  fingers,  they  cume  to  their  own  lake. 

How  eagerly  each  pointed  out  the  spot  to  his  fellows ; 
how  intently  their  black  heads  were  bent  down,  and 
their  dark  eyes  fixed  upon  the  map !  What  strange, 
uncouth  exclamations  of  surprise  burst  from  their  lips 
as  they  rapidly  repeated  the  Indian  names  for  every 
lake  and  river  on  this  wonderful  piece  of  paper ! 

The  old  chief,  Peter  Nogan,  begged  hard  for  the 
coveted  treasure.  He  would  give  "  Canoe,  venison, 
duck,  fish  for  it,  and  more,  by  and  by." 


226 


PERILOUS   ADVENT UHES. 


!!:■.'• 


I  felt  sorry  tliat  I  was  unable  to  gratify  his  wishes ; 
but  the  map  had  cost  upwards  of  six  dollars,  and  was 
daily  consulted  by  my  husband,  in  reference  to  the 
names  and  situations  of  localities  in  the  neighborhood. 

I  had  in  my  possession  a  curious  Japanese  sword, 
which  had  been  given  to  me  by  an  uncle  of  Tom  Wil- 
son's— a  strange  gift  to  a  young  lady  ;  but  it  was  on 
account  of  its  curiosity,  and  had  no  reference  to  my 
warlike  propensities.  This  sword  was  broad,  and  three- 
sided  in  the  blade,  and  in  shape  resembled  a  moving 
snake.  The  hilt  was  formed  of  a  hideous  carved  imaffc 
of  one  of  their  war-gods  ;  and  a  more  villainous-looking 
wretch  was  never  conceived  by  the  most  distorted 
imagination.  He  was  represented  in  a  sitting  attitude, 
the  eagle's  claws  that  formed  his  hands,  resting  upon 
his  knees ;  his  legs  terminated  in  lion's  paws  ;  and  his 
face  was  a  strange  compound  of  beast  and  bird — the 
upper  part  of  his  person  being  covered  with  feathers, 
the  lower  with  long,  shaggy  hair.  The  case  of  tliis 
awful  weapon  was  made  of  wood,  and,  in  spite  of  its* 
serpentine  form,  fitted  it  exactly.  No  trace  of  a  joint 
could  be  found  in  this  scabbard,  which  was  of  hard 
wood,  and  highly  polished. 

One  of  my  Indian  friends  found  this  sword  lying 
upon  the  book-shelf,  and  he  hurried  to  communicate 
the  important  discovery  to  his  companions.  Moodie 
was  absent,  and  they  brought  it  to  me  to  demand  an 
explanation  of  the  figure  that  formed  the  hilt.  I  told 
them  that  it  was  a  weapon  that  belonged  to  a  very  fierce 
people  who  lived  in  the  East,  far  over  the  Great  Salt 
Lake ;  that  they  were  not  Christians,  as  we  were,  but 
said  ♦■heir  prayers  to  images  made  of  silver,  and  gold. 


THE   INDIANS   OF   CANADA. 


227 


yislies ; 
nd  was 
to  the 
)rhood. 
sword, 
om  AVil- 
was  on 
e  to  my 
d  three- 
moving 
3d  image 
3-loolving 
distorted 
attitude, 
ng  upon 
and  his 
[)ird — tho 
feathers, 
c  of  tliis 
lite  of  its* 
)f  a  joint 
of  hard 

)rd  lying 
imunicatc 
Moodie 
emand  an 
t.     I  told 
rery  fierce 
rreat  Salt 
were,  but 
and  gold, 


and  ivory,  and  wood,  and  that  this  was  one  of  them ; 
that  before  they  went  into  battle  they  said  their 
prayers  to  that  hideous  thing  which  they  had  made  with 
their  own  hands.  The  Indians  were  highly  amused  by 
this  relation,  and  passed  the  sword  from  one  to  the 
other,  exclaiming,  "  A  god  ! — Owgh ! — a  god  !" 

But,  in  spite  of  those  outward  demonstrations  of  con- 
tempt, I  was  sorry  to  perceive  that  this  circumstance 
^  gave  the  weapon  a  great  value  in  their  eyes,  and  they 
regarded  it  with  a  sort  of  niystcrious  awe. 

For  several  days  they  continued  to  visit  the  house, 
bringing  along  with  them  some  fresh  companion  to 
look  at  Mrs.  MocdWs  (jod  ! — until,  vexed  and  annoyed 
by  the  delight  tiicy  manifested  at  the  sight  of  the  eagle- 
beaked  monster,  I  refused  to  gratify  their  curiosity,  by 
not  producing  him  again. 

The  manufacture  of  the  sheath,  wliich  had  caused  mo 
niticli  perplexity,  was  ex|)1ained  by  old  Peter  in  a  min- 
ute. "'^JMs  burnt  out,"  he  said.  "Instrument  made 
like  sword — heat  red-hot — burnt  through — polished  out- 
side. 

Had  I  demanded  a  whole  fleet  of  canoes  for  my 
Japanese  sword,  I  am  certain  tliey  would  have  agreed 
to  the  bargain  The  Indian  possesses  great  taste, 
which  is  displaye<l  in  the  carving  of  his  paddles,  in  the 
shape  of  iiis  canucs,  in  the  elegance  and  symmetry  of 
his  bows,  in  the  cut  of  his  leggings  and  moccasins,  the 
sheath  of  his  hunting-knife,  and  in  all  the  little  orna- 
ments in  which  he  delights.  It  is  almost  impossible  for 
a  settler  to  imitate  to  perfection  an  Indian's  cherry- 
wood  paddle.  My  husband  made  very  creditable  at- 
tempts, but  still  there  was  something  wanting — the 


.1  p;f^ 


0 

0 


228 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


''III! 


m, 


elegance  of  the  Indian  finish  was  not  there.  If  you  show 
them  a  good  print,  they  invariably  point  out  the  most 
natural  and  the  best-executed  figure  in  the  group.  They 
are  particularly  delighted  with  pictures,  examine  them 
long  and  carefully,  and  seem  to  feel  an  artist-like  plea- 
sure in  observing  the  effect  produced  by  light  and  shade. 

I  had  been  showing  John  Nogan,  the  eldest  son  of 
old  Peter,  some  beautiful  coloured  engravings  of  cele- 
brated females ;  and,  to  my  astonishment,  he  pounced 
upon  the  best,  and  grunted  out  his  admiration  in  the 
most  approved  Indian  fashion.  After  having  looked  for  a 
long  time  at  .'.  the  pictures  very  attentively,  he  took  his 
dog  Sancho  upon  his  knee,  and  showed  him  the  pictures, 
with  as  much  gravity  as  if  the  animal  really  could  have 
shared  in  his  pleasure.  The  vanity  of  these  g'-ave  men 
is  highly  amusing.  They  seem  perfectly  unconscious  of  it 
themselves ;  and  it  is  exhibited  in  the  most  childlike 
manner. 

Peter  and  his  son,  John,  were  taking  tea  with  us, 

when  we  were  joined  by  my  brother,  Mr.  S .     The 

latter  was  giving  us  an  account  of  the  marriage  of 
Peter  Jones,  the  celebrated  Indian  preacher. 

"I  cannot  think,"  he  said,  "how  any  lady  of  pro- 
perty and  education  could  marry  such  a  man  as  Jones 
Whv,  he's  as  ui«;lv  as  Peter  here." 

Tills  was  said,  not  with  any  idea  of  insulting  the 
red-skin  on  the  score  of  his  beauty,  of  which  he  pos- 
sessed not  the  smallest  particle,  but  in  total  forgetful- 
noss  ih.it  our  guest  understood  English.  Never  shall 
I  forget  the  red  flash  of  that  fierce,  dark  eye  as  it 
glared  upon  my  unconscious  brother.  I  would  not 
nave  received  such  a  fiery  glance  for  all  the  wealth 


her 


the 
few 


whoa 

cunni 

me, 

bask( 

but 

show( 

I  ten 

neitb 


TUB    INDIANS    OF   CANADA. 


229 


that  Peter  Jones  obtiiinod  with  his  Saxon  bride.    John 
Nogan  waa  higlily  amused  by  his  father's  indignation. 
He  hid  his  face  behind  the  chief ;  and  though  he  kept 
perfectly  still  his  whole  frame  was  convulsed  with  sup 
pressed  laughter.  ' 

A  plainer  human  being  than  poor  Peter  could 
scarcely  bo  imagined ;  yet  ho  certainly  deemed  him- 
self handsome.  I  fcm  inclined  to  think  that  their  ideas 
of  personal  beauty  differ  very  widely  from  ours.  Tom 
Nogan,  the  chief's  brother,  had  a  very  large,  fat,  ugly 
squaw  for  his  Avife.  She  was  a  mountain  of  tawny  flesh  ; 
and,  but  for  the  innocent,  good-natured  expression  which, 
like  a  bright  sunbeam  penetrating  a  swarthy  cloud, 
spread  all  around  a  kindly  glow,  she  might  have  been 
termed  hideous. 

This  woman  they  considered  very  handsome,  calling 
her  "a  fine  squaw  —  clever  squaw  —  a  much  good 
woman;"  though  in  what  her  superiority  consisted,  I 
never  could  discover,  often  as  I  visited  the  wigwam. 
She  was  very  dirty,  and  appeared  quite  indifferent  to 
the  claims  of  common  decency  (in  the  disposal  of  the 
few  filthy  rags  that  covered  her.)  She  was,  however, 
very  expert  in  all  Indian  craft.  No  Jew  could  drive  a 
better  bargain  than  Mrs.  Tom ;  and  her  urchins,  of 
whom  she  was  the  happy  mo'-her  of  five  or  six,  were  as 
cunning  and  avaricious  as  herself.  One  day  she  visited 
me,  bringing  along  with  her  a  very  pretty  covered 
basket  for  sale.  I  asked  her  what  she  wanted  for  it, 
but  could  obtain  from  her  no  satisfactory  answer.  I 
showed  her  a  small  piece  of  silver.  She  shook  her  head. 
I  tempted  her  with  pork  and  flour,  but  she  required 
neither.     I  had  just  given  up  the  idea  of  dealing  with 

20 


0' 


230 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


IXDIAN  nUNTIXa   DEEB. 


her,  in  despair,  ^vhen  she  suddenly  seized  upon  me,  and, 
lifting  up  my  gown,  pointed  exultingly  to  my  quilted 
petticoat,  clapping  her  hands,  and  laughing  immoder- 
ately. 

Another  time  she  led  me  all  over  the  house,  to  show 
me  what  she  wanted  in  exchange  for  basket.  My 
patience  vas  well  nigh  exhausted  in  following  her  from 
place  to  place  in  her  attempt  to  discover  the  coveted 
article,  when,  hanging  upon  a  peg  in  my  chamber,  sho 
espied  a  pair  of  trowsers  belonging  to  my  husband's 
logging-suit.  The  riddle  was  solved.  With  a  joyful 
cry  she  pointed  to  them,  exclaiming  "Take  basket. — 
Give  them !"  It  was  with  no  small  difficulty  that  I 
rescued  the  indispensables  from  her  grasp. 

From  this  woman  I  learned  a  story  of  Indian  cool- 
ness and  courage  which  made  a  deep  impression  on 
my  mind.  One  of  their  squaws,  a  near  relation  of 
her  own,  had  accompanied  her  husband  on  a  hunt 


Wmrrtf' 


THE   INDIANS   OF  CANADA. 


231 


ing  expedition  into  the  forest.  Ilo  had  been  very  suc- 
cessful, and  having  killed  more  deer  than  they  could 
well  carry  home,  ho  went  to  the  house  of  a  white  man 
to  dispose  of  some  of  it,  leaving  the  squaw  to  take  care 
of  the  rest  until  his  return.  She  sat  carelessly  upon 
the  log  with  his  hunting-knife  in  her  hand,  when  she 
heard  the  breaking  of  branches  near  her,  and,  turning 
round,  beheld  a  grieat  bear  only  a  few  paces  from  her. 

It  was  too  late  to  retreat ;  and  seeing  that  the  ani- 
mal was  very  hungry,  and  determined  to  come  to  close 
quarters,  she  rose,  and  placed  her  back  against  a  small 
tree,  holding  her  knife  close  to  her  breast,  and  in  a 
straight  line  with  the  bear.  The  shaggy  monster  came 
on.  She  remained  motionless,  her  eyes  steadily  fixed 
upon  her  enemy,  and  as  his  huge  arms  closed  around 
her,  she  slowly  drove  the  knife  into  his  heart.  The 
bear  uttered  a  hideous  cry,  and  sank  dead  at  her  feet. 
When  the  Indian  returned,  he  found  the  courageous 
woman  taking  the  skin  from  the  carcass  of  the  formi- 
dable brut«.      :-,.  .     'i.;  t.-.       "        ;.. •  1-^  rt  *"     .•: 

The  wolf  they  hold  in  great  contempt,  and  scarcely 
deign  to  consider  him  as  an  enemy.  Peter  Nogan  as- 
sured me  that  he  was  never  near  enough  to  one  in  his 
life  to  shoot  it ;  that,  oxcept  in  large  companies,  and 
when  greatly  pressed  by  hunger,  they  rarely  attack 
men.  They  hold  the  lynx,  or  wolverine,  in  much 
dread,  as  they  often  spring  from  trees  upon  their  prey, 
fastening  upon  the  throat  with  their  sharp  teeth  and 
claws,  from  which  a  person  in  the  dark  could  scarcely 
free  himself  without  first  receiving  a  dangerous  wound. 
The  cry  of  this  animal  is  very  terrifying,  resembling 
the  shrieks  of  a  human  creature  in  mortal  agony. 


I  (IS  i" 


232 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


One  extremely  cold  wintry  day,  ns  I  was  huddled  with 
my  little  ones  over  the  stove,  the  door  softly  unclosed, 
and  the  moccasined  foot  of  an  Indian  crossed  the  floor. 
I  raised  my  head,  for  I  was  too  much  accustomed  to 
their  sudden  appearance  at  any  hour  to  feel  alarmed, 
and  perceived  a  tall  woman  standing  silently  and  re- 
spectfully before  me,  wrapped  in  a  large  blanket.  The 
moment  she  caught  my  eye  she  dropped  the  folds  of 
her  covering  from  around  her,  and  laid  at  my  feet  the 
attenuated  figure  of  a  boy,  about  twelve  years  of  oge, 
who  was  in  the  last  stage  of  consumption. 

"  Papouse  die,"  she  said,  mournfully  clasping  her 
hands  against  her  breast,  and  looking  down  upon  the 
Buflfering  lad  with  the  most  heartfelt  expression  of  ma- 
ternal love,  while  large  tears  trickled  down  her  dark 
face.  "Hoodie's  squaw  save  papouse — poor  Indian 
woman  much  glad." 

Her  child  was  beyond  all  human  aid.  I  looked 
anxiously  upon  him,  and  knew,  by  the  pinched-up  fea- 
tures and  purple  hue  of  his  wasted  cheek,  that  he  had 
not  many  hours  to  live.  I  could  only  answer  with 
tears  her  agonizing  appeal  to  my  skill. 

"  Try  and  save  him  !  All  die  but  him."  (She  held 
up  five  of  her  fingers.)  "  Brought  him  all  the  way 
from  Mutta  Lake*  upon  my  back,  for  white  squaw  to 
cure." 

"  I  cannot  cure  him,  my  poor  friend.  He  is  in 
God's  care ;  in  a  few  hours  he  will  be  with  Him. 

The  child  was  seized  with  a  dreadful  fit  of  coughing, 
which  I  expected  every  moment  would  terminate  his 


i" 

O 
O 
m 

GQ 


*  Mud  Lake,  or  Lake  Sheniang,  in  Incliau. 


5 


if 

>■ 

o 
o 
m 
» 

GO 


f.    i- 


VJr 


.1:  ^i'^- 


THE  INDIANS  OF  CANADA. 


285 


frail  existence.  I  gave  him  a  tea-spoonful  of  currant 
jelly,  which  he  took  with  avidity,  but  could  not  retain 
u  moment  on  his  stomach. 

'Papouae  die,"  murmured  the  poor  woman  ;  "  ulono 
— alone  !     No  papouse  ;  the  mother  all  alone." 

She  began  re-adjusting  the  poor  sufferer  in  her 
blanket.  I  got  her  some  food,  and  begged  her  to  stay 
and  rest  herself;  but  she  was  too  much  distressed  to 
eat,  and  too  restless  to  remain.  She  said  little,  but 
her  face  expressed  the  keenest  anguish  ;  she  took  up 
her  mournful  load,  pressed  for  a  moment  his  wpsted, 
burning  hand  in  hers,  and  left  the  "room. 

My  heart  followed  her  a  long  way  on  her  melan- 
choly journey.  Think  what  this  woman's  love  must 
have  been  for  that  dying  son,  when  she  hud  carried  a 
lad  of  his  age  six  miles,  through  the  deep  snow,  upon 
her  back,  on  such  a  day,  in  the  hope  of  my  being  able 
to  do  him  some  good.  Poor  heart-broken  mother  !  1 
learned  from  Joe  Muskrat's  squav/  some  days  after, 
that  the  boy  died  a  few  minutes  after  Elizabeth  Iron, 
his  mother,  got  home. 

They  never  forget  any  little  act  of  kindness.  One 
cold  night,  late  in  the  fall,  my  hospitality  was  de- 
manded by  six  squaws,  and  puzzled  I  was  how  to  ac- 
commodate them  all.  I  at  last  determined  to  give 
them  the  use  of  the  parlour  floor  during  the  night. 
Among  these  women  there  was  one  very  old,  whose 
hair  was  as  white  as  snow.  She  was  the  only  grey- 
haired  Indian  I  ever  saw,  and  on  that  account  I  re- 
garded her  with  peculiar  interest.  I  knew  that  she 
was  the  wife  of  a  chief,  by  the  scarlet  embroi<leiod 
leggings,  which  only  the  wives  and  daughters  of  cfeiefe 


236 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


% 


arc  allowed  to  wear.  The  old  squaw  had  a  very  plcaf.- 
ing  countenance,  but  I  tried  in  vain  to  draw  her  into 
conversation.  She  evidently  did  not  understand  me  ; 
and  the  Muskrat  squaw,  and  Betty  Cow,  were  laughing 
at  my  attempts  to  draw  her  out.  I  administered  sup- 
per to  them  with  my  own  hands,  and  after  I  had  satis- 
fied their  wants,  (which  is  no  very  easy  task,  for  they 
have  great  appetites,)  I  told  our  servant  to  bring  in 
several  spare  mattresses  and  blankets  for  their  use. 
"  NoAV  mind,  Jenny,  and  give  the  old  squaw  the  best 
bed,"  I  said  ;  "  the  ethers  are  young  and  can  put  up 
M'ith  a  little  inconvenience." 

"  The  old  Indian  ghmccd  at  me  with  her  keen,  bright 
eye ;  but  I  had  no  idea  that  she  comprehended  what  I 
said.  Some  weeks  after  this,  as  I  was  sweeping  over 
my  parlour  floor,  a  slight  tap  drew  me  to  the  door. 
On  opening  it  I  perceived  the  old  squaw,  who  immedi- 
ately slipped  into  my  hand  a  set  of  beautifully-em- 
broidered bark  trays,  fitting  one  within  the  other,  and 
exhibiting  the  very  best  sample  of  the  porcupine-quill 
work.  While  I  stood  wondering  what  this  might  mean, 
the  good  old  creature  fell  upon  my  neck,  and  kissing 
me,  exclaimed,  "  lou  remember  old  squaw — make  her 
comfortable  !  Old  squaw  no  forget  you.  Keep  them 
for  her  sake,"  and  before  I  could  detain  her  she  ran 
down  the  hill  with  a  swiftness  which  seemed  to  bid  de- 
fiance to  years.  I  never  saw  this  interesting  Indian 
again,  and  I  concluded  that  she  died  during  the  win- 
ter, for  she  must  have  been  of  a  great  age. 

Late  one  very  dark,  stormy  night,  three  Indians 
begged  to  be  allowed  to  sleep  by  the  kitchen  stove. 
The  maid  was  frightened  out  of  her  v/its  at  the  sight 


a 


THE  INDIANS  OF  CANADA. 


237 


of  these  strangers,  who  were  INIohawks  from  the  Indian 
woods  upon  the  Bay  of  Quinte,  and  they  brought  along 
with  them  a  horse  and  cutter.  The  night  was  so 
stormy,  that,  after  consulting  our  man — Jacob  Faith- 
ful, as  we  usually  called  him — I  consented  to  grant 
their  petition,  although  they  were  quite  strangers,  and 
taller  and  fiercer-looking  than  our  friends  the  Missas- 
aguas. 

"  I  was  putting  my  children  to  bed,  when  the  girl 
came  rushing  in,  out  of  breath.  "  The  Lord  preserve 
us,  madam,  if  one  of  these  wild  men  has  not  pulled  off 
his  trowsers,  and  is  a-sitting  mending  them  behind  the 
stove!  and  what  sh.'ill  I  do?" 

"  Do  ? — why,  stay  with  me,  aifd  leave  the  poor  fel 
low  to  finish  his  work."     •  \ 

The  simple  girl  had  never  once  thought  of  this  plan 
of  pacifying  her  outraged  sense  of  propriety. 

Their  sense  of  hearing  is  so  acute  that  they  can  dis- 
tinguish sounds  at  an  incredible  distance,  which  cannot 
be  detected  by  a  European  at  all.  I  myself  witnessed 
a  singular  exemplification  of  this  fact.  It  was  mid- 
winter ;  the  Indians  had  pitched  their  tent,  or  wigwam, 
as  usual,  in  our  swamp.  All  the  males  were  absent  on 
a  hunting  expedition  up  the  country,  and  had  left  two 
women  behind  to  take  care  of  the  camp  and  its  contents, 
Mrs.  Tom  Nogan  and  her  children,  and  Susan  Moore, 
a  young  girl  of  fifteen,  and  the  only  truly  beautiful 
squaw  I  ever  saA'.  There  was  something  interesting 
about  this  girl's  history,  as  well  as  her  appearance. 
Xler  father  had  been  drowned  during  a  sudden  hurri- 
cane, which  swamped  his  canoe  on  Stony  Lake ;  and 
the  mother,  who  witnessed  the  accident  from  the  shore. 


kJ 


238 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUUES. 


p.'i' 


and  was  near  her  confinement  with  this  child,  boldly 
swam  out  to  his  assistance.  She  reached  the  spot 
where  he  sank,  and  even  succeeded  in  recovering  the 
body  ;  but  it  was  too  late ;  the  man  AV.i%  dead. 

Tiie  soul  of  an  Indian  that  has  been  drowned  is 
reckoned  accursed,  and  ho  is  never  permitted  to  join 
his  tribe  on  the  happy  hunting-grounds,  but  his  spirit 
haunts  the  lake  or  river  in  which  he  lost  his  life.  His 
body  is  buried  on  some  lonely  island,  which  the  Indians 
never  pass  without  leaving  a  small  portion  of  food, 
tobacco,  or  ammunition,  to  supply  his  Avants ;  but  he 
is  never  interred  with  the  rest  of  his  people.  His  chil- 
dren are  considered  unlucky,  and  few  willingly  unite 
themselves  to  the  females  of  the  family,  lest  a  portion 
of  the  father's  curse  should  be  visited  on  them. 

The  orphan  Indian  girl  generally  kept  aloof  from 
the  rest,  and  seemed  so  lonely  and  companionless,  that 
she  soon  attracted  my  attention  and  sympathy,  and  a 
hearty  feeling  of  good-will  sprang  up  between  us.  Her 
features  were  small  and  regular,  her  fiice  oval,  and 
her  large,  dark,  loving  eyes  were  full  of  tenderness  and 
sensibility,  but  as  bright  and  shy  as  those  of  the  deer. 
A  rich  vermilion  glow  burnt  upon  her  olive  cheek  and 
lips,  and  set  ofi"  the  dazzling  whiteness  of  her  even  and 
pearly  teeth.  She  was  small  of  stature,  with  delicate 
little  hands  and  feet,  and  her  figure  was  elastic  and 
graceful.  She  was  a  beautiful  child  of  nature,  and  her 
Indian  name  signified  "  the  voice  of  angry  waters." 
Poor  girl,  she  had  been  a  child  of  grief  and  tears  from 
her  birth  !  Her  mother  was  a  Mohawk,  from  whonj 
«he,  in  all  probability,  derived  her  superior  persona' 


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THE   INDIANS   OF   CANADA. 


241 


attractions ;  for  they  are  very  far  before  the  Missasa- 
guas  in  this  respect. 

.     My  friend  and  neighbour,  Emilia  S ,  the  wife  of 

a  naval  oflScer,  who  lived  about  a  mile  distant  from  me, 
through  the  bush,  had  come  to  spend  the  day  with  me ; 
and  hearing  that  the  Indians  were  in  the  swamp,  and 
the  men  away,  we  determined  to  take  a  few  trifles  to 
the  camp,  in  the  way  of  presents,  and  spend  an  hour 
in  chatting  with  the  squaws. 

What  a  beautiful  moonlight  night  it  was,  as  light  as 
day ! — the  great  forest  sleeping  tranquilly  beneath  the 
cloudless  heavens — not  a  sound  to  disturb  the  deep 
repose  of  nature  but  the  whispering  of  the  breeze, 
which,  during  the  most  profound  calm,  creeps  through 
th(»  lofty  pine  tops.  We  bounded  down  the  steep  bank 
to  the  lake  shore.  Life  is  a  blessing,  a  precious  boon 
indeed,  in  such  an  hour,  and  we  felt  happy  in  the  mere 
conciousness  of  existence — the  glorious  privilege  of 
pouring  out  the  silent  adoration  of  the  heart  to  the 
Great  Father  in  his  universal  temple. 

On  entering  the  wigwam,  which  stood  within  a  few 
yards  of  the  clearing,  in  the  middle  of  a  thick  group 
of  cedars,  we  found  Mrs.  Tom  alone  with  her  elvish 
cliildren,  seated  before  the  great  fire  that  burned  in  the 
centre  of  the  camp ;  she  was  busy  boiling  some  bark  in 
an  iron  spider.  The  little  boys,  in  red  flannel  shirts, 
which  were  their  only  covering,  were  tormenting  a 
puppy,  which  seemed  to  take  their  pinching  and  pom- 
melling in  good  part,  for  it  neither  attempted  to  bark 
nor  to  bite,  but  like  the  eels  in  the  story,  submitted  to 
the  infliction  because  it  was  used  to  it.  Mrs.  Tom 
greeted  us  with  a  grin  of  pleasure,  and  motioned  us  to 


^■m    ... 


242 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


sit  down  upon  a  buffalo  skin,  which,  with  a  courtesy  so 
natural  to  the  Indians,  she  had  placed  near  her  for  our 
accommodation.  • 

**You  are  all  alone,"  said  I,  glancing  round  the 
camp. 

"  Ye'es ;  Indian  away  hunting-  -Upper  Lakes.  Come 
home  with  much  deer." 

"  And  Susan,  where  is  she  ?" 

"By  and  by,"  (meaning  that  she  was  coming). 
"Gone  to  fetch  water — ice  thick — chop  with  axe — 
take  long  time." 

As  she  ceased  speaking,  the  old  blanket  that  formed 
the  door  of  the  tent  was  withdrawn,  and  the  girl,  bear- 
ing two  pails  of  water,  stood  in  the  open  space,  in  the 
white  moonlight.  The  glow  of  the  fire  streamed  upon 
her  dark,  floating  locks,  danced  in  the  black,  glisten- 
ing eye,  and  gave  a  deeper  blush  to  the  olive  cheek ! 
She  would  have  made  a  beautiful  picture ;  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds  would  have  rejoiced  in  such  a  model — so 
simply  graceful  and  unaffected,  the  very  beau  idSal 
of  savage  life  and  unadorned  nature.  A  smile  of 
recognition  passed  between  us.  '^he  put  down  her 
burden  beside  Mrs.  Tom,  and  noiselessly  glided  to 
her  seat. 

We  had  scarcely  exchanged  a  few  words  with  our 
favourite,  when  the  old  squaw,  placing  her  hand  against 
her  ear,  exclaimed,  "Whist!  whist!"     u.-  .  - 

"  What  is  it  ?"  cried  Emilia  and  I,  starting  to  our 
feet.     "  Is  there  any  danger  ?" 

"A  deer — a  deer — in  bush!"  whispered  the  squaw, 
seizing  a  rifle  that  stood  in  a  corner.  "  I  hear  sticks 
crack — a  great  way  off.     Stay  here  !" 


TIIH    INDIANS    OF   CANADA. 


243 


to  our 


A  great  way  off  the  animal  must  have  been,  for 
thougli  Emilia  and  I  listened  at  the  open  door,  an  ad- 
vantage which  the  squaw  did  not  enjoy,  we  could  not 
hear  the  least  sound :  all  seemed  still  as  death.  The 
squaw  whistled  to  an  old  hound,  and  went  out. 

"  Did  you  hear  any  thing,  Susan  ?" 

She  smiled,  and  nodded. 

"  Listen ;  the  dog  has  found  the  track." 

The  next  moment  the  discharge  of  a  rifle,  and  the 
deep  baying  of  the  dog,  woke  up  the  sleeping  echoes 
of  the  woods ;  and  the  girl  started  off  to  help  the  old 
squaw  to  bring  in  the  game  that  she  had  shot. 

The  Indiana  are  great  imitators,  and  possess  a  nice 
tact  in  adopting  the  customs  and  manners  of  those  with 
whom  they  associate.  An  Indian  is  Nature's  gentleman 
— never  familiar,  coarse,  or  vulgar.  If  he  take  a  meal 
with  you,  he  waits  to  see  how  you  make  use  of  the 
implements  on  the  table,  and  the  manner  in  which  you 
eat,  which  he  imitates  with  a  grave  decorum,  as  if  he 
had  been  accustomed  to  the  same  usages  from  child- 
hood. He  never  attempts  to  help  himself,  or  demand 
more  food,  but  waits  patiently  until  you  perceive  what . 
he  requires.  I  was  perfectly  astonished  at  this  innate, 
politeness,  for  it  seems  natural  to  all  the  Indians  with 
whom  I  have  had  any  dealings. 

There  was  one  old  Indian,  who  belonged  to  a  dis- 
tant settlement,  and  only  visited  our  lakes  occasionally 
on  hunting  parties.  He  was  a  strange,  eccentric,  meriy 
old  follow,  with  a  skin  like  red  mahogany,  and  a  wiry, 
sinewy  frame,  that  looked  as  if  it  could  bid  defiance  to 
every  change  of  temperature.  Old  Snow-storm,  for 
such  was  his  significant  name,  was  rather  too  fond  of 


'.'4  ^ 


3 


244 


PERILOUS   ADVEXTUKES. 


I: 


<HJ>  8N0W-ST0SH  mm  TBI  7BISKET-B0TTUS. 

the  wliiskoy-bottlc,  and  when  he  had  taken  a  drop  toe 
much,  ho  became  an  unmanageable  wild  beast.  He 
had  a  great  fancy  for  my  husband,  and  never  visited 
the  other  Indians  without  extending  the  same  favour 
to  us.  Once  upon  a  time,  he  broke  the  nipple  of  his 
gun ;  and  Moodie  repaired  the  injury  for  him  by  fixing 
a  new  one  in  its  place,  which  little  kindness  quite  won 
the  heart  of  the  old  man,  and  he  never  came  to  see  U3 


THE   INDIANS    OV   CANADA. 


245 


without  bringing  an  offering  of  fish,  ducks,  partridges., 
or  venison,  to  sliov/  his  gratitude. 

One  warm  September  day,  he  made  his  appearance 
bare-headed,  as  usual,  and  carrying  in  his  hand  a  great 
checked  bundle. 

"Fond  of  grapes?"  said  he,  putting  the  said  bundle 
into  my  hands.  "  Fine  grapes — brought  them  from 
island,  for  my  friend's  squaw  and  papouses." 
•  Glad  of  the  donation,  which  I  considered  quite  a 
prize,  I  hastened  into  the  kitchen  to  untie  the  grapes 
and  put  them  into  a  dish.  But  imagine  my  disappoint- 
ment, when  I  found  them  wrapped  up  in  a  soiled  shirt, 
only  'recently  taken  frotii  tlic  back  of  the  owner.  1 
called  Moodie,  and  begged  liim  to  rctuin  Snon'-Storm 
his  garment,  and  to  thank  hitn  for  i]\Q  grapes. 

The  mischievous  ci'eaturc  was  higldy  diverted  with 
the  circumstance,  and  lavghcd  imuioderatt'ly. 

"Snow-Storm,"  said  he,  ''Mis.  jMoodie  and  the 
children  are  obliged  to  you  for  your  kindness  in  bring- 
ing them  the  grapes ;  but  how  came  you  to  tie  them  up 
in  a  dirty  shirt?" 

"Dirty!"  cried  the  old  man,  astonished  thiit  we 
should  object  to  the  fruit  on  that  score.  "  It  ought  to 
be  clean ;  it  has  been  washed  often  enough.  Owgh ! 
You  see,  Moodie,"  he  continued,  "I  have  no  hat — 
never  wear  hat — want  no  shade  to  my  eyes — love  the 
sun — see  all  around  me — up  and  down — much  better 
widout  hat.  Could  not  put  grapes  in  hat — blanket- 
coat  too  large,  crush  fruit,  juice  run  out.  I  had  noting 
but  my  shirt,  so  I  takes  oft'  shirt,  and  brings  grape  safe 
over  the  water  on  my  back.  Papouse  no  care  for  dirty 
skirt;  their  lee-tle  beUies  have  no  ei/es." 

21* 


y 
1 


246 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


f 


In  spite  of  this  eloquent  harangue,  I  could  not  bring 
myself  to  use  the  grapes,  ripe  and  tempting  as  they 

looked,  or  give  them  to  the  children.     Mr.  W and 

his  wife  happening  to  step  in  at  that  moment,  fell  into 
such  an  ecstacy  at  the  sight  of  the  grapes,  that,  as  they 
were  perfectly  unacquainted  with  the  circumstance  of 
the  shirt,  I  very  generously  gratified  their  wishes  by 
presenting  them  with  the  contents  of  the  large  dish ; 
and  they  never  ate  a  bit  less  sweet  for  the  novel  modi 
in  whicli  they  were  conveyed  to  me  ! 

The  Indians,  under  their  quiet  exterior,  possess  a 
deal  of  humour.  They  have  significant  names  for 
every  thing,  and  a  nickname  for  every  one,  and  some 
of  the  latter  are  laughably  appi  opriate.  A  fat,  pomp- 
ous, ostentatious,  settler  in  our  iieighbourhood  they 
called  3//(fA^.7/rt'(.',  "the  bull-frcg."  Another,  rather  a 
fine  young  man,  but  with  a  very  red  face,  they  named 
Segoskee,  "  the  rising  sun."  Mr.  Wood,  who  had  a 
farm  above  ours,  was  a  remarkably  slender  young  man, 
and  to  him  they  gave  the  appellation  of  Metiz^  "  thin 
stick."  A  woniMH,  that  occasionally  worked  for  me, 
had  a  disagreeable  s(iii:nL;  she  Vras  known  in  Indian  by 
the  name  of  Sacluibo,  "  cross-oye."  A  gentleman  with 
a  very  large  nose  was  Choojas,  "  big,  or  ugly  nose." 
My  little  Addie,  who  was  a  fair,  lovely  creature,  they 
viewed  with  great  approbation,  and  called  A7ioonk,  "  a 
star;"  while  the  rosy  Katie  Avas  Nogesigook,  "the 
northern  lights."  As  to  me,  I  was  Nonocosique,  a 
"  humuiing-bird  ;"  a  ridiculous  name  for  a  tall  woman, 
buL  ic  luiii  ret'c.  encu  to  the  delight  I  took  in  painting 
birds.  My  friend,  Emilia,  was  "blue  cloud;"  my 
little  Donald,  "frozen .face;"  young  C ,  "the  red- 


THE   INDIANS   OV   CANADA. 


247 


ik,  "  a 
"  the 


headed  woodpecker,"  from  the  colour  of  hia  hair ;  my 
brother,  Chippewa,  and  "  the  bakl-headcd  eagle."  Ho 
was  an  especial  favourite  among  them. 

The  Indians  are  often  made  a  prey  of,  and  cheated 
by  the  unprincipled  settlers,  who  think  it  no  crime  to 
overreach  a  red  skin.  One  anecdote  will  fully  illus- 
trate this  fact.  A  young  squaw,  who  was  near  becom- 
ing a  mother,  stopped  at  a  Smith-town  settler's  house 
to  rest  herself.  The  woman  of  the  house,  who  was 
Irish,  was  peeling  for  dinner  some  large  white  turnips, 
which  her  husband  had  grown  in  their  garden.  The 
Indian  had  never  seen  a  turnip  before,  and  the  appear- 
ance of  the  firm,  white,  juicy  root  gave  her  such  a  keen 
craving  to  taste  it  that  she  very  earnestly  begged  .for 
a  small  piece  to  eat.  She  had  purchased  at  Peter- 
borough a  large  stone-china  bowl,  of  a  very  handsome 
pattern,  (or,  perhaps,  got  it  at  the  store  in  exchange 
for  a  basket,)  the  worth  of  which  might  be  half-a-dollar. 
If  the  poor  squaw  longed  for  the  turnip,  the  value  of 
which  could  scarcely  reach  a  copper,  the  covetous 
European  had  fixed  as  longing  a  glance  upon  the  china 
bowl,  and  she  was  determined  to  gratify  her  avaricious 
desire  and  obtain  it  on  the  most  easy  terms.  She  told 
the  squaw,  with  some  disdain,  that  her  man  did  not 
grow  turnips  to  give  away  to  "Injuns,"  but  she  would 
sell  her  one.  The  squaw  offered  her  four  coppers,  all 
the  change  she  had  about  her.  This  the  woman 
refused  with  contempt.  She  then  proffered  a  basket ; 
but  that  was  not  sufficient ;  nothing  would  satisfy  her 
but  the  bowl.  The  Indian  demurred ;  but  opposition 
had  only  increased  her  craving  for  the  turnip  in  a  ten- 
fold degree;  and,  after  a  short  mental  struggle,  in 


111 


y 
1 


248 


I'EUILOriS    ADVKXTUllKS. 


which  the  animal  propensity  ovcrctnno  the  warning  of 
prudence,  the  sfiuaw  gave  up  tlie  bowl,  and  rccc'^eJ 
in  return  07ie  iurnij)!  The  daughter  of  this  woman 
told  me  this  anecdote  of  her  mother  as  a  very  clever 
thing.  What  ideas  some  people  have  of  moral  justice  I 
I  have  said  before  that  the  Indian  never  forgets  u 
kindness.  Wo  had  a  thousand  proofs  of  this,  when, 
overtaken  by  misfortune,  and  withering  beneath  the 
iron  grasp  of  poverty,  we  could  scarcely  obtain  breac 
for  ourselves  and  our  little  ones ;  then  it  was  that  the 
truth  of  the  Eastern  proverb  was  brought  home  to  our 


hearts,    and   the 


goodness 


of    God   fully   manifested 


towards  us,  "Cast  thy  bread  upon  tbf  Avatpr,  jind  thou 
shalt  find  it  after  many  days."  Dining  better  times 
we  had  treated  these  poor  saviiges  with  kindness  and 
liberality,  and  when  dearer  friends  looked  coldly  upon 
us  they  never  forsook  us.  For  many  a  good  meal  I 
have  been  indebted  to  them,  when  I  had  nothing  to 
give  in  return,  Avhen  the  pantry  was  empty,  and  *'  the 
heirth-stone  growing  qold,"  as  they  term  the  want  of 
provisions  to  cook  at  it.  And  their  delicacy  in  con- 
ferring these  favours  was  not  the  least  admirable  part 
of  their  conduct.  John  Nogan,  who  was  much  attached 
to  us,  would  bring  a  fine  bunch  of  ducks,  and  drop 
them  at  my  feet  "  for  the  papouse,"  or  leave  a  large 
muskinonge  on  the  sill  of  the  door,  or  place  a  quarter 
of  venison  just  within  it,  and  slip  away  without  saying 
a  word,  thinking  that  receiving  a  present  from  a  poor 
Indian  might  hurt  our  feelings,  and  he  would  spare  us 
the  mortification  of  returning  thanks. 

When  an  Indian  loses  one  of  his  children,  he  must 
keep  a  strict  fast  for  three  dayj?,  abstaining  from  food 


I'S, 


r 


of  a 
me  I 

Btrai 


Till':    INDIANS    OF    ('AN-Af).v. 


249 


•I  al^ 


HANDSOME  JACK  AND  Mn.  TOV-^a 


of  any  kind.     A  luintcr,  of  the  name  of  Young,  told 
me  a  curious  story  of  their  rigid  observance  of  this 


strange  rite. 


250 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


t 

■I 


"They  had  a  chief,"  ho  said,  "a  feAV  years  ago, 
whom  they  called  '  Handsome  Jack' — whether  in  deri 
sion,  I  cannot  tell,  for  he  was  one  of  the  ugliest  Indians 
I  ever  saw.  The  scarlet  fever  got  into  the  camp — a 
terrible  disease  in  this  country,  and  doubly  terrible  to 
those  poor  creatures  who  don't  know  how  to  treat  it. 
His  eldest  daughter  died.  The  chief  had  fasted  two 
days  when  I  met  him  in  the  bush.  I  did  not  know 
what  had  happened,  but  I  opened  my  wallet,  for  I  was 
on  a  hunting  expedition,  and  offered  him  some  bread 
and  dried  venison.     He  looked  at  me  reproachfully. 

" '  Do  white  men  eat  bread  the  first  night  their 
papouse  is  laid  in  the  earth  ?' 

"  I  then  knew  the  cause  of  his  depression,  and  left 
him." 

On  the  night  of  the  second  day  of  his  fast  another 
child  died  of  the  fever.  He  had  now  to  accomplish 
three  more  days  without  tasting  food.  It  was  too  much 
even  for  an  Indian.  On  the  evening  of  the  fourth,  he 
was  so  pressed  by  ravenous  hunger,  that  he  stole  into 
the  woods,  caught  a  bull-frog,  and  devoured  it  alive. 
He  imagined  himself  alone,  but  one  of  his  people,  sus- 
pecting his  intention,  had  followed  him,  unperceived,  to 
the  bush.  The  act  he  had  just  committed  was  a  hide- 
ous crime  in  their  eyes,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  camp 
was  in  an  uproar.  The  chief  fled  for  protection  to 
Young's  house.  When  the  hunter  demanded  the  cause 
of  his  alarm,  he  gave  for  answer,  "  There  are  plenty 
of  flies  at  my  house.  To  avoid  their  stings  I  came 
to  you." 

It  required  all  the  eloquence  of  Mr.  Young,  who 


mm 


W" 


THE  INDIANS  OF  CANADA. 


251 


who 


enjoyed  much  popularity  among  them,  to  reconcile  the 
rebellious  tribe  to  their  chief. 

They  are  very  skilful  in  their  treatment  of  wounds, 
and  many  diseases.  Their  knowledge  of  the  medi- 
cinal qualities  of  their  plants  and  herbs  is  very  great. 
They  make  excellent  poultices  from  the  bark  of  the 
bass  and  the  slippery-elm.  They  use  several  native 
plants  in  their  dyeing  of  baskets  and  porcupine  quills. 
The  inner  bark  of  the  swamp-alder,  simply  boiled  in 
water,  makes  a  beautiful  red.  From  the  root  of  the 
black  briony  they  obtain  a  fine  salve  for  sores,  and  ex- 
tract a  rich  yellow  dye.  The  inner  bark  of  the  root 
of  the  sumach,  roasted,  and  reduced  to  powder,  is  a 
good  remedy  for  the  ague ;  a  tea-spoonful  given  between 
the  hot  and  cold  fit.  They  scrape  the  fine  white 
powder  from  the  large  fungus  that  grows  upon  the  bark 
of  the  pine  into  whiskey,  and  take  it  for  violent  pains 
m  the  stomach.  The  taste  of  this  powder  strongly  re- 
minded me  of  quinine.  -.','-<■        -  'v 

I  have  read  much  of  the  excellence  of  Indian  cookery, 
but  I  never  could  bring  myself  to  taste  any  thing  pre- 
pared in  their  dirty  wigwams.  I  remember  being 
highly  amused  in  watching  the  preparation  of  a  mess, 
which  might  have  been  called  Indian  hotch-potch.  It 
consisted  of  a  strange  mixture  of  fish,  flesh,  and  fowl, 
all  boiled  together  in  the  same  vessel.  Ducks,  par- 
tridges, muskinonge,  venison,  and  muskrats,  formed  a 
part  of  this  delectable  compound.  These  were  literally 
smothered  in  onions,  potatoes,  and  turnips,  which  they 
had  procured  from  me.  They  very  hospitably  ofiered 
me  a  dishful  of  the  odious  mixture,  which  the  odour  of 
the  muskrats  rendered  every  thing  but  savoury ;  but  I 


'  1^ 


1 


252 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUKES. 


declined,  simply  stating  tliat  I  was  not  hungry.  My 
little  boy  tasted  it,  but  quickly  left  the  camp  to  con- 
ceal the  effect  it  produced  upon  him. 

Their  method  of  broiling  fish,  however,  is  excellent. 
They  take  a  fish,  just  fresh  out  of  the  water,  cut  out 
the  entrails,  and,  without  removing  the  scales,  wash  it 
clean,  dry  it  in  a  cloth,  or  in  grease,  and  cover  it  all 
over  with  clear  hot  ashes.  AVhen  the  fiesh  will  part 
from  the  bone,  they  draw  it  out  of  the  ashes,  strip 
off  the  skin,  and  it  is  fit  for  the  table  of  the  most  fasti- 
dious epicure. 

The  deplorable  want  of  chastity  that  exists  among 
the  Indian  women  of  this  tribe  seems  to  have  been 
more  the  result  of  their  intercourse  with  the  settlers  in 
the  country  than  from  any  previous  disposition  to  tills 
vice.  The  jealousy  of  their  husbands  has  often  been 
exercised  in  a  terrible  manner  against  the  offcndiiig 
squaws  ;  but  this  has  not  happened  of  late  years.  The 
men  wink  at  these  derelic.tions  in  their  wives,  and 
share  with  them  the  price  of  their  shame. 

The  mixture  of  European  blood  adds  greatly  to  the 
physical  beauty  of  the  half-race,  but  produces  a  sad 
falling  off  from  the  original  integrity  of  the  Indian 
character.  The  half-caste  is  generally  a  lying,  vicious 
rogue,  possessing  the  worst  qualities  of  both  parents  in 
an  eminent  degree.  We  have  many  of  these  half- 
Indians  in  the  penitentiary,  for  crimes  of  the  blackest 
dye. 

The  skill  of  the  Indian  in  procuring  his  game,  either 
by  land  or  water,  has  been  too  well  described  by  better 
writers  than  I  could  ever  hope  to  be,  to  need  any  illus- 
tration from  my  pen,  and  I  will  close  this  long  chapter 


been 
CVS  in 
o  th'iH 

been 

nding 

The 

,   and 


1 


INDIAN  CHIEFS. 


*, 


S*;*i    J    Z*.'^^  ,     'U-*?.    n'-    ""       » 


THE   INDIANS   OF  CANADA. 


255 


with  a  droll  anecdote  •which  is  told  of  a  gentleman  in 
this  neighbourhood. 

The  earlj  loss  of  his  hair  obliged  Mr.  to  pro- 
cure the  substitute  of  a  wig.  This  was  such  a  good 
imitation  of  nature,  that  none  but  his  intimate  friends 
and  neighbours  were  aware  of  the  fact.  It  happened 
that  he  had  had  some  quarrel  with  an  Indian,  which  had 
to  be  settled  in  one  of  the  petty  courts.     The  case  was 

decided  in  favour  of  Mr.  ,  which  so  aggrieved  the 

savage,  who  considered  himself  the  injured  party,  tRat 
he  sprang  upon  him  with  a  furious  yell,  tomahawk  in 
hand,  with  the  intention  of  depriving  him  of  his  scalp. 
He  twisted  his  hand  in  the  locks  which  adorned  the 
cranium  of  his  adversary,  when — horror  of  horrors ! — 
the  treacherous  wig  came  oflF  in  his  hand,  "  Owgh ! 
owgh !"  exclaimed  the  affrighted  savage,  flinging  it 
from  him,  and  rushing  from  the  court  as  if  he  had  been 
bitten  by  a  rattlesnake.     His  sudden  exit  was  followed 

by  peals  of  laughter  from  the  crowd,  while  Mr.  

coolly  picked  up  his  wig,  and  dryly  remarked  that  it 
had  saved  his  head. 


1 


ENCOUNTER    WITH     THE     BANDITTI 
SMUGGLERS  OF  ANDALUSIA. 


AND 


f"'" 


1  .'i: 


ORD  PORCIIESTER,  in  his  Notes  to 
the  Poem  of  the  Moor,  gives  the  follow- 
ing account  of  a  meeting  with  the  fa- 
mous banditti  of  Andalusia  : 

.  Hearing  that  a  caravan  was  but  a 
mde  in  advance,  -we  galloppod  forward 
and  joined  it  as  it  entered  the  forest.  We  soon  after- 
wards heard  a  cry  of  robbers,  and  were  shown  three 
men  in  the  wood,  leaning  on  their  guns,  whom  our 
companions  recognis»^d  as  fovralng  members  of  the 
great  banditti,  whoso  numbers,  I  suspect,  had  been 
much  exaggerated.  Protected  by  the  caravan,  I  felt 
some  curiosity  to  see  the  highwayman  of  Andalusia  ; 
who,  like  the  legitimuts  smuggler,  was  distinguished 
by  a  particular  dress,  was  mounted  on  the  high-necked 
horse  of  the  country,  and  had  some  redeeming  points 
in  his  character;  he  was  seldom  known, to  commit 
murder,  or  inflict  any  personal  outrage,  except  in  cases 
of  continued  resistance  ;  and  affected,  in  the  full  exer- 
cise of  his  vocation,  a  lofty  courtesy  of  manner,  and  a 
contempt  for  sordid  details :  but  these  men  were  not 
mounted,  and  were  not  remarkable  for  any  peculiarity 
of  appearance. 
(256) 


. 


EXCOUNTEll  WITH  BANDITTI  AND  SMUGGLERS.   257 


We  crossed  the  Xenil,  and  arrived  with  the  caravan, 
as  night  set  in,  at  the  Posada  of  Benamegi,  where  we 
collected,  as  usual,  round  the  great  fire.  As  we  retired 
to  our  apartment,  we  oflfered  our  companions  some 
wine,  which  they  received  with  haughty  reluctance, 
and  were  not  satisfied  till  we  had  pledged  them  in  their 
cup  and  broken  their  bread ;  but  they  afterwards  came 
to  our  room,  shook  hands  warmly  with  us,  and  en- 
treated us  to  join  their  party  on  the  next  morning.  On 
the  following  day,  Pusey  and  myself  left  Benamegi  at 
an  early  hour.  The  mountains  of  Ruti  and  Priego 
rose  magnificently  before  us,  and  rested  in  the  bright 
beams  of  the  morning :  we  passed  along  some  very 
craggy  paths,  and  arrived  about  the  middle  of  the  day 
at  Lucena.  We  found  the  inn  crowded  with  smugglers, 
who  conversed  freely  with  us,  and  sold  their  goods 
without  any  afi'ectation  of  concealment:  their  dress 
was  handsome  and  their  manner  civil,  which  was  not 
invariably  the  case  at  that  period.  Before  the  revo- 
lution, the  Spanish  smugglers  formed  a  distinct  class, 
that  retained,  with  much  originality  of  character,  cer- 
tain defined  principles,  and  an  established  code  of 
honour,  upon  which  they  professed  to  act.  By  this 
code,  all  robbery  except  the  plunder  of  the  revenue  was 
highly  censured,  unless  it  took  place  under  very  peculiar 
circumstances.  In  traversing  the  country,  they  dis- 
charged their  daily  reckonings  with  exactness,  and 
often  with  generosity ;  and,  in  spite  of  their  illicit  oc- 
cupations, showed  the  most  incorruptible  fidelity  to- 
wards persons  who  placed  themselves  under  their  pro- 
tection or  relied  on  their  honour.  Such  principles  were 
recognised,  if  not  acted  upon,  by  every  individual  who 

22* 


1^ 

0 


258 


I'EUI'LO VH    Ai)  V E.N T  U ilES. 


l|i!.l 


D'i'i! 


became  a  member  of  the  fraternity ;  and  continued, 
more  or  less,  in  forco,  Avhilo  the  number  remained 
limited  ;  but  when  the  change  that  was  operated  in 
the  commercial  policy  of  Spain  had  given  a  violent 
stimulus  to  the  illicit  trade,  a  new  class  of  smugglers 
suddenly  arose,  unformed  by  previous  habits,  and 
solely  created  jy  the  demand  for  foreign  merchandise  ; 
which,  in  consequence  of  the  new  regulations,  could  no 
longer  be  supplied  by  the  regular  channels.  This  new- 
class  had  no  restraining  points  of  pride,  and  becoming 
alternately  smuggler  ana  robber,  they  plundered  the 
revenue,  and  oppressed  the  people  ;  but  a  marked  dis- 
tinction existed  in  the  public  mind,  and  a  bitter  feud 
prevailed  between  the  old  and  the  new  race.         . »; 


ni 

Vj 

n 
d, 


MEETING  AN  ICEBERG  IN  THE  NORTHERN 

OCEAN. 


iIIE  following  account  of  a  meeting  with 
a  gigantic  iceberg  in  the  Arctic  sea,  is 
given  by  the  author  of  "  Two  years  be- 
fore the  Mast :" 

At  twelve  o'clock  we  went  below ; 
and  had  just  got  through  dinner,  when 
the  cook  put  his  head  down  the  scuttle,  and  told  us  to 
come  on  deck  and  see  the  finest  sight  that  wo  had  ever 
seen.  "  Where  away,  cook  ?"  asked  the  first  man  who 
was  up.  "  On  the  larboard  bow."  Ami  there  lay 
floating  in  tlie  ocean,  several  miles  off,  an  immense  ir- 
regular mass,  its  t<.p  and  points  covered  with  snow,  and 
its  centre  of  a  dcej)  indigo  colour.  This  was  an  ice- 
berg, and  one  of  tlie  largest  size,  as  one  of  our  men 
said,  who  had  been  in  the  Northern  Ocean. 

As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  the  sea  in  every  di- 
rection was  of  a  deep  blue  colour,  the  waves  running 
high  and  fresh,  and  spaikling  in  the  light ;  and  in  the 
midst  lay  this  immense  mountain-island,  its  cavities  and 
valleys  thrown  into  deep  shade,  and  its  points  and  pin- 
nacles glittering  in  the  sun.  All  hands  were  soon  on 
deck,  looking  at  it,  and  admiring  in  various  ways  its 
beauty  and  grandeur.     But  no   description  can  give 


1 


260 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


"I, 


till 


any  idea  of  the  strangeness,  splendour,  and,  really,  the 
sublimity  of  the  sight.  Its  great  size — for  it  must 
have  been  from  two  to  three  miles  in  circumference, 
and  several  hundred  feet  in  height ;  its  slow  motion,  as 
its  base  rose  and  sank  in  the  water,  and  its  high  points 
nodded  against  the  clouds ;  the  dashing  of  the  waves 
upon  it,  which,  breaking  high  with  foam,  lined  its  base 
with  a  high  crust ;  and  the  thundering  sound  of  the 
cracking  of  the  mass,  and  the  breaking  and  tumbling 
down  of  huge  pieces  ;  together  with  its  nearness  and 
approach,  which  added  a  slight  element  of  fear — all 
combined  to  give  it  the  character  of  true  sublimity. 
The  main  body  of  the  mass  was,  as  I  have  said,  of  an 
indigo  colour,  its  base  crusted  with  frozen  foam  ;  and  as 
it  grew  thin  and  transparent  towards  the  edges  and 
top,  its  colour  shaded  off  from  a  deep  blue  to  the  white- 
ness of  snow.  It  seemed  to  be  drifting  slowly  towards 
the  north,  so  that  we  kept  away  and  avoided  it.  It 
was  in  sight  all  the  afternoon ;  and  when  we  got  to 
leeward  of  it,  the  wind  died  away,  so  that  we  lay-to 
quite  near  it  for  a  greater  part  of  the  night.  Unfor- 
tunately there  was  no  moon  ;  but  it  was  a  clear  night, 
and  we  could  plainly  mark  the  long  regular  heaving 
of  the  stupendous  mass  as  its  edges  moved  slowly 
against  the  stars.  Several  times  in  our  watch  loud 
cracks  were  heard,  which  sounded  as  though  they  must 
Lave  run  through  the  whole  length  of  the  iceberg,  and 
several  pieces  fell  down  with  a  thundering  crash, 
jl^ni^uiiig  heavily  into  the  sea.  Towards  morning  a 
sti  ong  breeze  sprang  up,  and  we  filled  away  and  left  it 

astern,  and  at  daylight  it  was  out  of  sight No 

pencil  has  ever  yet  given  any  thing  like  the  true  effect 


MEETING  AN  ICEDEllQ  IN  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN.     201 

of  an  iceberg.  ^In  a  picture  they  are  huge  uncouth 
masses  stuck  in  the  sea ;  while  their  chief  beauty  and 
grandeur — their  slow  stately  motion,  the  whirling  of 
the  snow  about  their  summits,  and  the  fearful  groaning 
and  cracking  of  their  parts — the  picture  cannot  give. 
This  is  the  large  iceberg ;  while  the  small  and  distant 
islands,  floating  on  the  smooth  sea  in  the  light  of  a 
clear  day,  look  like  little  floating  fairy  isles  of  sap- 
phire. 


img  a 

left  it 

.No 

!  efiFect 


J 
1 


l||;i'i 


CIBOASSIANB. 


ADVENTURES  IN  CIRCASSIA. 

:c^  lEUTENANT-COLONEL  0.  POU- 
LETT  CAMERON,  K.  F.  S.  etc., 

who  was  employed  on  a  special  ser- 
vice  in  Persia,  in  1838,  published  a 
narrative  of  his  adventures  after  his 
return,  from  which  we  make  the  fol- 
lowing extracts ; — 
We  bowled  gaily  and  gallantly  along,  the  time  being 
enlivened  by  the  mimic  conflicts  of  our  escort,  whoso 
dexterity  in  the  management  of  their  horses  and  arms 
was  most  admirable,  and  scarcely  to  be  surpassed.  A 
period  of  rather  less  than  two  hours  brought  us  to  the 


ADVENTUllES   IN    CIRCASSIA. 


263 


scene  of  our  intended  festivity.  A  spot  more  singularly 
wild,  picturesque,  and  beautiful  it  is  impossible  to 
imagine.  It  was  a  kind  of  glivde,  being  one  among 
many  situated  on  an  extent  of  turf,  which,  for  smooth- 
ness and  colour,  seemed  to  rival  the  finest  velvet, 
divided  by  one  of  the  small,  yet  tempestuous  and  foam- 
ing, streams  of  the  mcuntainn.  To  our  right  rose  the 
magnificent  and  majestic  Elborooz,  towering  in  the 
midst  of  its  eternal  snows,  like  ooine  mighty  despot  in 
the  midst  of  his  satellites, — so  comparatively  insignifi- 
cant, when  placed  in  juxtaposition  appeared  the  lofty 
range  of  the  Caucasus. 

It  was  late,  and  the  moou  had  risen  before  our  party 
separated,  being  much  tired,  yet  infinitely  more  de- 
lighted with  our  excursion.  As  the  night  was  uncom- 
monly clear,  and  the  caravan  pace  we  should  have  been 
obliged  to  keep  at,  in  the  event  of  our  returning  in  the 
same  manner  we  came,  was  by  no  means  to  the  taste 
of  either  my  companion  (Captain  V of  the  Grena- 
diers of  the  Imperial  Guard)  or  myself,  I  proposed  our 
at  once  proceeding  onward,— ^to  which  on  his  readily 
acquiescing,  I  directed  the  coachman  to  push  on,  who, 
accordingly,  had  whipped  his  horses  into  a  gallop,  when 
the  oliiccr  commanding  the  escort,  called  to  him  to 

stop.  -^    7:    -:       ■:  i  -      i    I/;       .    »     V. 

This  gentleman,  on  approaching  the  carriage,  remon- 
strated, in  the  strongest  terms,  upon  our  proceeding 
alone,  when  parties  of  the  mountaineers  were  known  to 
be  hovering  near.  We  thanked  him  for  his  considera- 
tion and  politeness,  but  informing  him,  as  we  mustered 
six  persons,  well  armed,  (my  two  Persian  domestics 
being  in  the  rumble  behind,  with  my  friend's  valet,  in 


1 


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t 


264 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES* 


addition  to  the  coachman  and  ourselves,)  we  had  not 
the  least  apprehension,  he  very  reluctantly  allowed  U3 
to  proceed  on  our  way  to  the  town,  where  we  arrived 
without  the  slightest  accident, — although,  at  a  turning 
in  the  road,  as  we  came  full  upon  it,  we  could  not  for- 
bear detaining  the  carriage  eight  or  ten  minutes,  to 
gaze  once  more  upon  the  old  patriarch,  Elborooz,  shi- 
ning in  the  clear  moonlight,  his  whole  appearance  being 
rendered,  if  possible,  more  majestic  and  imposing  at 
this  time  than  by  day.  .       ■ 

The  principal  of  the  five  mountains  from  which  the 
town  of  Piatigorsk  takes  its  name,  is  the  "Maschouka," 
about  five  and  twenty  or  thirty  yards  up  the  ascent  of 
which  is  the  mouth  of  a  gouffre,  or  cavern,  possessed 
of  a  reputation  by  no  means  the  most  favourable  with 
the  whole  of  the  neighbouring  population,  whether  Rus- 
sian, Circassian,  Cossack,  or  Tartar,  it  being  known  by 
the  omiuous  cognomen  of  the  "Sheitan  Munzilee,"  a 
word  in  the  latter  language  signifying  the  Devil's 
abo'^f  Several  of  my  Russian  friends  had  long  thought 
of  the  possibility  of  exploring  it ;  and  it  was  at  length 

proposed  by  Captain  V to  the  Count  de  L ,  a 

nobleman  of  illustrious  family,  an  officer  of  chasseurs, 
and  myself  to  make  the  attempt.  Accordingly,  having 
devoted  some  days  for  the  purpose  of  more  minutely 
surveying  the  gouffre,  and  making  the  requisite  arrange- 
ments on  the  27th  July,  the  latter  being  completed,  we 
resolved  to  undertake  the  adventure,  and  accompanied 
by  the  Prince  de  G ,  and  several  other  friends,  pro- 
ceeded to  the  spot. 

The  entrance  of  the  cavern  formed  a  circumference  of 
about  fifty  feet,  while  its  perpendicular  descent,  we  were 


ADVENTURES   IN   CIRCASSIA. 


265 


£» 


afterwards  led  to  believe,  varying  from  three  hundred  to 
three  hundred  and  twenty,  and  occasionally  narrowing 
and  increasing  in  width,  oflfered  no  impediment  in  its 
course  downwards  to  the  bottom,  which  we  could  observe 
formed  a  sheet  of  water  apparently  covering  the  whole. 
Having  constructed  a  platform  on  the  edge,  surmounted 
with  two  thick  poles  and  a  traverse  beam,  a  strong  coil  of 
rope  was  rove  through  a  pulley  in  the  centre  of  the  latter 
to  the  end  of  which  was  attached  a  stick,  which,  placed 
between  the  legs,  would  form  a  support  in  the  descent. 
In  some  measure  to  ascertain  the  depth  of  the  water, 
we  disengaged  a  heavy  fragment  of  rock,  and  let  it  fall 
— a  heavy,  sullen  plunge  succeeded,  evidently  betoken- 
ing the  water  to  be  of  some  depth.  We  now  com- 
menced our  preparations,  and  having  cast  lots  to  decide 

who  should  commence,  it  fell  upon  Count  de  L . 

To  guard  against  the  possibility  of  meeting  any  trouble- 
some occupants,  who  might  be  disposed  to  resent  this 
sudden  and  unexpected  invasion  of  their  subterranean 
abode,  each  took  the  precaution  of  being  provided  with 
pistols,  and  the  formidable  Circassian  kummur,*  or 
short  sword. 


*  The  Circassians  carry  two  sworda,  the  one,  a  long,  straight 
sabre,  being  mucb  the  same  description  of  blade  as  that  carried  in 
our  regiments  of  light  cavalry,  and  is  chiefly  used  when  on  horse- 
back; the  other  in  length,  make,  and  breadth  closely  resembling 
the  old  Roman  sword,  which,  indeed,  many  antiquaries  suppose  to 
be  altogether  the  same.  The  last  is  slung  in  their  f»;irdle  toward 
the  left  side,  and  in  their  close  conflicts  with  the  Russian  infantry, 
is  the  weapon  most  particularly  dreaded,  from  the  dexterity  with 
which  it  is  wielded,  one  single  stroke  suflicing  in  general  to  sever 
the  limb  it  encounters,  while  from  the  stab  it  inflicts  recovery  is 
almost  utterly  hopeless. 

23 


266 


PERILOUS    ADVENTURES. 


All  being  ready,  a  small  but  strong  raft,  with  a 
couple  of  paddles,  was  lowered  down,  and  the  Count 
taking  a  pistol  from  his  belt  to  be  held  in  readiness, 
quickly  followed ;  it  was  a  nervous  spectacle,  but  after 
some  minutes  of  suspense,  we  liad  the  satisfaction  of 
seeing  the  gallant  nobleman  reach  the  plationn  in 
safety.  ,         •  j     • 

It  was  now  my  turn, — I  had  commenced  the  descent, 
and  was  about  a  third  of  the  way  down,  when  an  inci- 
dent occurred  which  had  well  nigh  left  me  the  task  of 
adorning  instead  of  telling  a  tale,  and  which  arose  from 
one  of  the  three  Russian  soldiers  who  had  charge  of 
the  rope  venturing  to  look  over  tlie  ledge,  when,  terri- 
fied at  the  fancied  peril  of  my  situation,  or  rendered 
giddy  by  gazing  from  the  height,  he  fell  back  upon  his 
companions,  to  whom  he  appeared  to  communicate  his 
own  terrors,  when  they  all  at  once  let  slip  the  rope, 
which  spun  through  the  block  with  tremci^dous  velocity. 
I  shouted  at  the  utmost  pitch  of  my  voice,  but  fortu- 
nately  my  friend   V perceived    the   danger,  and 

springing  forward,  seized  hold  of  the  cord,  and  by  his 
voice  and  example  brought  the  men  to  their  senses.  I 
■^'as  thus  fortunately  enabled  to  reach  the  bottom  in 
safety. 

It  required  but  two  minutes,  as  soon  as  we  could 
distinctly  discern  what  was  around  us,  to  perceive  that 
our  adventure  scarce  repaid  the  risk  we  had  encount- 
ered, and  was  here  terminat'^d ;  as,  on  being  joined  by 
V ,  and  having  ferried  .  /Und  the  entire  circumfer- 
ence, no  further  signs  of  any  outlet  appeared  visible, 
the  sides  being  a  mass  of  solid  rock,  while  the  only 
inhabitants  were  a  myriad  of  bats,  and  some  half  a 


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ADVENTURES  IN   CIKOASSIA. 


269 


dozen  owls,  the  latter  of  whom  seemed  to  vicT  our 
unexpected  intrusion  with  an  air  of  offended  dignity 
and  indignation.  The  water  was  as  bright  and  clear 
as  crystal,  and  seemed  so  equally  impregnated  with 
sulphur  and  salt,  that  neither  of  us  could  determine 
which  of  these  minerals  seemed  most  to  predominate. 

After  passing  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  our  sub- 
terranean abode,  we  made  the  signal  to  be  drawn  up ; 
and  thus  terminated  our  adventure,  the  news  of  which, 
I  know  not  why,  but,  in  all  probability,  from  the 
exaggerated  description  of  the  dangers  attending  it, 
caused  a  considerable  sensation  among  all  classes  at 
the  time ;  so  much  so,  that  on  its  reaching  the  ears  of 
the  commander-in-chief,  the  considerate  and  highly  dis- 
tinguished General  GrabbS,  to  guard  against  any  other 
person  atten^pting  it  a  second  tiii:;?,  he  sent  peremptory 
orders  for  all  our  apparatus  for  eftecting  it  to  be  de- 
stroyed, and  forbidding  any  similar  construction  for 
such  a  purpose  in  future. 

A  party  of  ten  or  twelve  of  us  were  out  enjoying  the 
pleasures  of  the  chase,  and  carried  away  by  the  ardour 
of  the  sport,  we  felt  but  little  disposed  to  listen  to  the 
remonstrances  of  one  or  two  of  the  more  prudent  among 
our  number,  who  more  than  once  reminded  us  we  had 
got  far  beyond  the  Russian  line,  and  were  full  ten  or 
twelve  versts  in  the  enemy's  counury.  On  we  went, 
however,  scampering  through  the  rich  valleys,  and  up 
and  down  the. various  hills,  till  after  several  hours,  our 
horses  being  pretty  well  jaded,  and  ourselves  rendered 
extremely  hungry,  we  halted  for  some  time  at  a  small 
grove,  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  commanding  an  extensive 
view  of  the  superb  scenery  in  our  front,  which,  occa- 

23* 


5 

1 


270 


PERILUUS   ADVENTUUES. 


sionalljr  broken  in  upon  by  knots  of  trees,  and  rising, 
undulating  mounds,  socmcd  one  continued  carpet  of 
green  verdure. 

In  the  course  of  half  an  hour  some  of  the  party  were 
again  mounted,  others  Avere  engaged  in  tightening  their 
girths,  while  some  had  not  even  yet  finished  the  more 
important  duties  in  which  their  masticatory  organs  were 
still  employed,  Avhen  two  or  three  of  the  former,  who 
had  ridden  half-way  down,  and  were  gazing  on  the 
scene  before  them,  all  at  once  wheeled  their  horses 
round,  and  with  considerable  dismay  painted  in  their 
countenances,  and  calling  out,  au  grand  galop,  les  mon- 
tagnards,  darted  down  the  opposite  side  of  the  hill,  in 
which  they  were  quickly  followed,  by  all  the  rest,  with 

the  exception  of  L i  and  myself,  the  delay  on  my 

part  being  occasioned,  in  the  first  place,  by  my  very 
imperfectly  understanding  what  had  been  the  cause  cf 
this  sudden  confusion  ;  and  again,  being  at  the  same  mo- 
ment occupied  in  arranging  the  saddle  girths,  while  the 
attention  of  my  companion  was  more  seriously  bent 
upon  a  large  sandwich,  and  a  pint  bottle  of  Champagne, 
in  the  diligent  discussion  of  Avhich  he  was  employed  at 
the  time.  .    -       <^     -■  .    '< 

Our  delay  seemed  to  cause  considerable  impatience 
and  not  a  few  execrations  on  the  part  of  our  compa- 
nions, who  of  course,  could  not  leave  us  behind,  and  one 
of  them,  a  short,  stout,  corpulent,  elderly  gentleman, 
immediately  rode  back,  and  darting  an  angry  glance 
at  me,  bitterly  reproached  my  companion  for  his  hair- 
brained  follv,  in  thus  hazardinii;  the  lives  of  the  whole 
party  by  his  dilatory  supineness.  We,  however,  soon 
mounted,  and  on  rtjoiniiig  the   party,  and  inquiring 


rising, 
pet  of 


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A   COSSACE. 


ADVENTURES   IN   CIRCASSIA. 


273 


into  the  cause  of  this  sudden  confusion,  were  at  once 
informed,  that  about  three  or  four  hundred  yards  imme- 
diately in  our  front,  twelve  or  fifteen  men  were  ob- 
served stealthily  gliding  from  one  cluster  of  under- 
wood to  another. 

All  were  now  turned  for  instant  flight,  when,  raising 
my  voice,  I  pointed  out  the  consequences  of  such  an  ill- 
advised  measure,  since,  if  the  persons  who  had  been 
seen  possessed  any  hostile  intention,  they  would  soon 
overtake  us,  their  horses  being  much  fresher  than  ours, 
and  their  numbers,  in  all  probability,  ten  times  as 
numerous ;  that  from  the  greater  part  of  us  wearing 
the  costume  of  the  country,  it  was  iL.^ossible  at  that 
distance,  for  them  to  ascertain  whether  we  were  a  party 
of  Cossacks  of  the  Line,  or  a  detachment  from  their 
own  body,  but  that  the  slightest  signs  of  flight  on  our 
part,  would  at  once  determine  our  real  character,  and 
give  the  signal  for  an  immediate  pursuit.  I  further 
suggested,  that  our  best  course  of  proceeding  would  be 
to  descend  to  the  valley  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  which, 
by  an  even,  though  circuitous  course,  led  direct  to  the 
town  and  post  of  Ki&lavosk,  and  which  would  sometimes 
expose  us  to,  but  more  generally  exclude  us  from  the 
view  of  our  opponents,  between  whom  and  ourselves, 
by  moving  along  at  a  slow  trot,  we  should  then  place 
some  distance,  without  blowing  our  horses,  should  they 
feel  inclined  to  pursue ;  till,  having  fairly  got  a  good 
start,  and  successive  hills  having  wholly  closed  all  sight 
of  us  from  those  in  our  rear,  we  could  then  ply  whip 
and  spur,  and  try  who  could  soonest  verify  the  old 
proverb  of,  "  devil  take  the  hindmost." 

This  advice,  which  was  warmly  seconded  by  L i 


274 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


'*lji,;:ii 
:(»,;, i!li 


and  several  others,  wa,"  finally  agroetl  to,  and  we  com- 
menced our  retreat,  not  withoiU  sundry  misgivings,  and 
frequent  turnings  of  the  head  over  the  shoulder  from 
the  whole  party ;  when,  having  gained  oui  vantage 
ground  without  any  pursuit  or  molestation,  off  wo 
started  flying  like  the  wind,  keepiiig,  as  the  old  saying 
has  it,  "one  spur  in,  and  the  other  never  out;"  the 
whole  bringing  most  forcibly  to  my  remembrance  an 
exactly  similar  scene  that  had  occurred  c  ;ice  in  life  to 
me  before,  in  which  a  part  of  the  force  I  belonged  to, 
having  succeeded  in  getting  into  an  ambuscade,  those 
possessed  of  swift  horses,  strong  arms,  and  good  luck, 
succeeded  in  clearing  their  way  through,  the  survivors 
merely  leaving  three-fourths  of  their  original  number 
behind  them. 

Better  fortune,  however,  attended  us  this  time,  as 
we  reached  Kislavosk  without  the  slightest  danger, 
except  what  resulted  from  the  various  mountain  streams 
which  crossed  us  in  our  flight,  and  which,  in  son)-? 
places  of  great  depth,  and  running  with  extreme  vi^^- 
lence,  were  not  passed  without  some  hazard,  though  so 
admirably  trained  were  our  gallant  chargers,  that  no 
other  inconvenience  was  the  result,  than  an  occasional 
cold  bath  to  our  lower  extremities,  reaching,  however, 
at  times  up  to  the  breast. 


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ENCOUNTER  WITH  ROBBERS  IN  TURKEY. 


HE  Rev.  Horatio  Southgate,  a  min- 
[^^  istcr  of  the  American  Episcopal 
Church,  travelled  in  Turkey,  under 
the  direction  of  the  Board  of  Mis- 
sion Avhich  that  church  had  insti- 
tuted. This  route  was  frequently 
beset  by  bands  of  Kurds,  who  de- 
pended upon  robbing  for  a  living.  One  day  after 
leaving  Moush,  on  halting  for  rofvoshraents,  he  heard 
that  a  villager  had  been  laurdeioil  that  morning  in  the 
mountains:  and  on  the  t-ume  day,  in  a  desolate  place, 
he  was  stopped  by  a  party  of  the  fierce  mountaineers. 
The  alarming  encounter  is  thus  described  by  the  min- 
ister : — 

"  The  movement  threw  our  muleteer  into  great  ter- 
ror. He  suddenly  ordered  us  to  draw  up  into  a  body 
and  to  move  forward  slowly,  wliilc  he  hastened  to  meet 
the  advancing  horsemen.  A  warm  parley  ensued.  The 
-party  eyed  us  keenly  as  wc  approached.  My  spirits 
sank  very  perceptibly  when  I  encountered  the  same  fero- 
cious look  that  I  had  seen  in  Moush.  The  conversation 
between  the  muleteer  and  the  horsemen  became  more 
earnest,  but  being  in  Kurdish,  we  could  understand 
nothing,  excepting  by  their  looks  and  gestures  that  it 
related  to  us.  The  poor  muleteer,  who  had  served  us 
most  faithfully  from  the  first,  looked  as  if  he  Avcre  upon 


? 

1 


278 


rEUILOUiJ    ADVENTURES. 


Kl,.,.„iii 


the  rack.  He,  succeeded,  liowcvci-,  by  what  arguments 
I  know  not,  in  effecting  his  object,  for,  ufter  some  delay, 
we  were  suffered  to  proceed  in  safety.  The  Kiahya'a 
story  revived  the  recollection  of  the  adventure,  and  as  if 
this  were  not  enough,  I  began  to  feel  some  self-reproach 
for  having  undertaken  the  journey.  John,  too,  became 
gloomy ;  called  himself  a  fool  for  having  exposed  his  life 
for  the  paltry  consideration  of  monthly  wages ;  and 
wished  himself  in  Constantinople.  All  this  induced  a  fit  of 
loneliness ;  and,  for  the  first  time  since  my  journey  began, 
I  lay  down  upon  my  grass  couch  with  a  heavy  heart. 

"  How  healing  is  sleep  !  How  repulsive  of  care  are 
the  bright  beams  of  the  morning!  John  rosea  new 
man,  and  I  found  in  the  protection  of  the  night  some- 
thing still  to  be  grateful  for. 

"  In  the  course  of  the  (h\y  wo  passed  four  old  and 
deserted  khans  of  an  ancient  and  solid  architecture. 
The  principal  one  was  built  of  hewn  stone,  with  round 
towers  or  abutments  at  the  angles  and  sides.  It  was  in 
the  Saracenic  style,  and  had  doubtless  boon  erected 
many  wge^^  hvc]<,  f(U'  time  had  now  decorated  its  walls 
with  green  ti-;'.>s('s  v.Mviug  from  eveiy  gaping  chink. 
A  stone  fountain,  which  still  furniyhcd  refreshing  water, 
stood  before  it,  and  a  merry  cascade  played  near  by." 

A  wealthy  Armenian  at  Bitlis,  to  whom  Mr.  South- 
gate  had  a  letter  from  Erzroum,  gave  him  a  very  in- 
hospitable reception ;  pretending  to  know  nothing  what- 
ever of  the  person  by  whom  it  was  written.  In  these 
circum'5t:i.nf^cv-i,  returning  the  letter  into  his  pocket,  he 
dv.siiod  lo  ln>  ctiiM  1 'tod  to  ihe  Bey,  a  Kurd,  who 
chanced  to  be  found  in  one  of  the  khans. 

"In  a  few  minutes  I  was  in  his  presence.    Ho  sat  in 


r/.NCiJLWl'iUl    Willi    llOiiBHUS    IN   TURKEY. 


279 


one  corner  of  the  room,  g<aylv  dressed  in  the  Kurdish 
costume.  His  whole  apparel  was  white,  and  his  peak 
cap  was  bound  with  shawls  of  the  liveliest  colours.  He 
Avas  young,  with  a  fine,  open  face  and  a  good  form. 
He  saluted  me  gracefully  as  I  entered,  and  pointed  to 
a  seat  near  him.  Pipes  and  coffee  were  brought,  ana 
he  began  by  asking  some  commonplace  questions  as  to 
my  country,  name,  &c.  He  was  more  curious,  how- 
ever, to  know  my  real  design  in  travelling,  and  pressed 
the  question  with  considerable  importunity.  I  told  him 
in  plain  terras  that  my  object  was  to  see  different  peo- 
ple and  countries,  and  to  observe  manners,  characters, 
and  religions.  Ho  could  not  undtM-stand  it — an  Ori- 
ental never  can  understand  the  motive  of  one  who 
travels  either  for  information  or  pleasure.  I  have 
sometimes  heard  Turks  speak  of  the  locomotive  pro- 
pensity of  the  English  as  a  species  of  insanity.  The 
]3cy  was  not  satisfied,  and  asked  what  had  brought  me 
into  so  strange  a  place  as  Kurdistan.  I  replied  that 
its  very  strangeness  was  my  motive,  that  I  wished  to 
sec  what  nobody  else  had  seen.  He  was  not  contented, 
and  grew  suspicious.  Finding  that  nothing  else  would 
avail,  I  intimated  that  I  was  travelling  with  proper 
credentials,  and  directed  John  to  exhibit  the  firman 
of  the  Sultan.  It  was  received  by  his  secretary,  who 
opened  it  and  offered  it  to  the  Bey,  pronouncing  at  the 
same  time  the  single  word  '•  Mahmoud.'  The  Bey,  in- 
stead of  receiving  it  with  the  customary  demonstrations 
of  respect,  waved  his  hand  contemptuously  in  token  of 
refusal.  I  then  drew  forth  the  boyouroultou  of  the 
Pacha  of  Erzroum,  and  handed  it  to  tl  e  scribe.  When 
the  Bey  heard  what  it  was,  he  ordereci  it  to  be  read, 


1 


280 


PERILOUS   ADVENIURES. 


r 


ii' 


'I ii 


and  at  the  close,  drawing  himself  up,  made  some 
remark  in  Kurdish  to  the  crowd  who  had  gathered 
about  the  entrance.  The  meaning  of  course  I  could 
not  understand,  but  the  tone  and  expression  of  face 
which  accompanied  it,  showed  that  it  was  of  a  bold 
character.  The  bouyouroultou,  however,  had  its  de- 
sired effect.  The  Bey  added  in  Turkish  that  I  must 
be  provided  for,  and  looking  round  upon  the  crowd  who 
thronged  the  entrance,  added,  '*  We  must  assign  him  to 
some  one  who  is  able  to  show  him  proper  attention ;" 
and  then,  as  his  eye  fell  on  the  Armenian  to  whom  I 

had  brought  the  letter,  "  M ,  will  you  receive  him 

as  a  guest  ?"  My  Armenian,  laying  his  hand  upon  his 
heart,  professed  himself  all  zeal  to  comply  with  the 
wishes  of  the  Bey,  and  turning  to  me  with  an  equivo- 
cal smile  of  welcome,  requested  me  to  follow  him.  I 
did  so,  with  a  secret  feeling  of  vexation  at  "being  thus 
unceremoniously  thrust  upon  his  reluctant  hospitality, 
but  I  endeavoured  to  console  myself  with  the  thought 
that  I  was  an  instrument  of  justice  to  punish  him  for 
his  parsimony.  When  we  had  arrived  at  his  house,  he 
conducted  me  to  a  balcony  looking  out  upon  a  garden, 
and  shaded  with  magnificent  fruit  trees.  Here  carpets 
and  cushions  were  spread  for  us,  and  we  were  invited 
to  repose.  The  motive  for  forgetfulness  being  now 
removed,  my  host's  memory  suddenly  revived,  and  I 
delivered  him  the  letter  which  I  had  brought  for  him. 
Though  an  Armenian,  he  could  not  read  it  himself,  but, 
with  the  aid  of  his  son,  'contrived  to  make  out  a  lame 
interpretation,  which  gratified  him  so  much  that  he 
afterwards  showed  the  letter  to  all  his  friends. 

"  In  the  evening  another  Armenian,  the  banker  of 


ENCOLTMEK    WITH    UUlJliEllri    IN    TURKEY. 


281 


the  Bey,  came  in  to  make  our  acquaintance.  He  wel- 
comed us  to  Bitlis  with  the  warmest  cordiality,  lavished 
upon  us  compliments  in  overwhelming  profusion,  made 
the  most  unbounded  offer  of  his  services,  and  concluded 
by  insisting  upon  our  being  his  guests  on  the  morrow. 
I  hardly  knew  to  what  to  attribute  this  profuse  kind- 
ness, and  I  was  very  grateful  to  meet  with  so  warm  a 
friend,  and  began  to  feel  quite  at  home.  The  next 
morning  he  called  again,  but,  alas,  how  changed! 
There  was  no  welcome,  no  compliment,  and  the  invita- 
tion for  the  day  seemed  entirely  forgotten.  The 
melancholv  truth  at  last  came  out,  that  our  new  friend 
had  come  to  us  the  evening  before  from  the  midst  of  his 
nightly  potations,  and  it  was  under  their  influence  that 
he  had  made  all  the  fair  speeches  which  the  soberness 
of  the  morning  had  dissipated. 


? 

1 


A  CntOABSUN  WOMAN. 


24* 


ADVENTURES  IN  OEEGON. 


REGON  is  rapidly  rising  in  wealth, 
and  population.  Astoria  is  now 
only  one  among  many  settlements 
in  that  region.  The  vast  resources 
of  the  territory  are  being  gradually 
developed,  and  people  are  attracted 
from  all  quarters  to  settle  within 
its  limits.  Every  branch  of  industry 
may  have  extensive  cultivation  there.  The  territory 
abounds  in  fertile  valleys,  and  numerous  mines  have 
been  discovered.  Upon  the  extensive  coast,  are  many 
fine  harbours,  upon  which  cities  with  extensive  com- 
merce will,  no  doubt  be  founded.  Among  the  recent 
adventurers  in  this  region,  was  the  Rev.  Gustavus 
Hines,  a  zealous  missionary,  who  made  many  interest- 
ing observations  upon  the  character  of  the  territory 
and  its  inhabitants,  and  met  with  some  singular  adven- 
tures. As  an  illustration  of  the  nature  of  his  career  in 
he  wilderness,  we  quote  his  account  of  a  tour  in  the 
valley  of  the  Umpqua : 

We  prepared  to  continue  our  exploring  tour  farther 
into  the  interior,  and  up  the  valley  of  the  Umpqua 
river.  Through  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Goinea,  we  pro- 
cured an  Indian  guide  of  the  Umpqua  tribe,  whom  tho 


? 


ADVENTURES   IN   OREGON. 


285 


French  had  designated  by  the  name  of  "  We-We,"  and 
who  well  underst'^  od  the  jargon  of  the  country,  and 
could  officiate  as  our  interpreter.  The  forenoon  of 
Friday  was  spent  in  finding  our  horses,  and  preparing 
our  pack.  All  being  ready,  betwixt  twelve  and  one 
o'clock  we  started,  with  our  guide  in  advance.  Passing 
over  a  number  of  high  hills,  and  fording  the  Umpqua 
three  times,  where  the  bottom  was  very  rocky  and  the 
water  up  to  our  horses'  backs,  we  encamped  at  night 
on  the  bank  of  a  small  rivulet,  under  the  shelter  of  a 
grove  of  fir.  Wo  had  travelled  about  twenty  miles. 
The  country  traversed  that  day,  though  mountainous, 
is  tolerably  well  adapted  to  grazing  purposes,  the  land 
on  the  hills,  and  in  many  of  the  valleys,  being  covered 
with  a  spontaneous  growth  of  the  most  nutritious  grass. 
The  timber  grows  less  and  less  abundant  as  we  pro- 
ceed up  the  river ;  some  of  the  fir  trees,  however,  are 
most  magnificent.  We  measured  one  with  our  lasso 
as  high  as  we  could  reach,  and  found  it  to  be  thirty-six 
feet  in  circumference.  We  judged  it  to  be  three 
hundred  feet  high.  In  the  lowest  valleys  next  the 
streams,  grows  a  kind  of  timber,  the  like  of  which  I 
have  never  seen  in  any  other  country.  It  appears  to 
be  of  the  laurel  family,  and  is  so  strongly  scented,  that 
the  air  in  the  groves  where  it  is  found,  is  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  its  aromatic  odours.  The  elk  abound 
in  this  country,  and  afford  a  fruitful  source  whence  the 
Indians  derive  a  subsistence.  No  Indians  appeared 
during  the  first  day. 

Saturday,  29th.  Continued  our  toilsome  way  over 
mountains,  and  through  valleys  similar  to  those  already 
described,  and  at  noon  arrived  at  the  head  quarters  of 


1 


280 


I'i.lvll.or'M    AitVKNTUUKS. 


^ 

<: 
f 


that  portion  of  tlio  Tnili«n3  of  iliis  valley,  distinguished 
by  the  name  of  the  vivci*.  Hero  the  head  chief  of  the 
Uinpquas  has  fixeil  a  toiiiporary  abode,  and  here  one 
of  those  circumstances  recently  transpired,  Avhich, 
though  of  common  occurrence  in  heathen  countries, 
where  tlie  vicious  propensities  of  depraved  human  na- 
ture arc  permitted  to  revel  uncontrolled,  are  suiRcient 
to  freeze  the  heart's  blood,  even  to  contemplate  at  a 
distance.  It  is  as  follows  :  A  report  came  to  the  ears 
of  the  chief  of  the  Umpquas,  that  his  wife  had  been 
guilty  of  infidelity  towards  her  husband.  This  so  en- 
raged him,  that,  without  knowing  whether  the  report 
was  true  or  false,  he  seized  his  musket,  and  went  di- 
rectly to  the  lodge  where  his  wife  was  sitting,  and  de- 
liberately shot  her  through  the  heart. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  on  the  side  of  the  river  oppo- 
site to  the  village,  this  chief,  with  the  few  men  that 
were  with  him,  came  over  to  see  us.  He  delivered  a 
long  speech,  which  was  interpreted  to  us  by  "  We- We," 
in  making  which,  one  of  his  first  objects  seemed  to  bo 
to  justify  the  murder  of  his  wife,  and  then  to  express 
his  gratitude  that  Christian  teachers  had  come  among 
them.  While  ho  was  haranguing  us,  my  attention  was 
caught  away  from  his  speech  by  a  terrible  burst  of 
heathen  passions,  which  took  place  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river,  among  the  lodges.  In  the  absence  of  the 
men,  the  women  had  a  regular  fight,  scratching  and 
biting  one  another,  and  tearing  each  other's  hair,  and 
squalling  most  frightfully.  So  tremendous  was  the 
explosion  that  even  the  chief  paused  in  the  midst  of  his 
address,  and  significantly  remarked,  "  our  women  are 
Mas  masicJta  ;"  (very  bad.)     Such  v/ere  the  indications 


nguisheJ 
;f  of  tho 
here  ono 
I,   -which, 
jountries, 
iman  na- 
sufficicnt 
ilate  at  a 
)  tho  ears 
had  been 
liis  so  en- 
lie  report 
went  di- 
;,  and  de- 
ij*  ■•'  '  '    ' 
ver  oppo- 
men  that 
(livered  a 
We-We," 
lied  to  bo 
o  express 
no  among 
tion  was 
burst  of 
ther  side 
ce  of  the 
ling  and 
lair,  and 
was  the 
dst  of  hia 
omen  are 
[lications 


> 

"t 


INDIAN  HUNTING  THE   ELK. 


f 


ill'-' 


-0- 


11 


IffplE|]|l!l!' 


^,^®%  V' 


J#>:- 


I 

t 

r 
1' 
a 
(1 


\ 
ri 
I 
re 

di: 
h 


ADVE^^TURES   liS    OllEGON. 


28d 


here,  that  wc  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  soone* 
wo  were  out  of  the  place  the  better  it  would  be  for  us, 
and  so  soon  as  we  had  taken  a  little  refreshment  from 
our  scanty  stores,  we  told  our  pjuide  that  we  were 
ready  to  proceed ;  but  he  positively  refused  to  go  any 
farther  that  day,  saying  that  it  would  be  using  his 
])Loplo  very  ill,  and  that  the  chief  would  be  very  angry 
with  us,  if  we  did  not  stop  and  sleep  with  them  one  night. 
The  contention  became  ^uite  warm,  and  we  began  to 
consider  ourselves  in  rather  critical  circumstances.  If 
abandoned  by  our  guide,  it  was  extremely  doubtful 
whether  wo  could  find  our  way  back  to  the  fort,  or  for- 
ward to  the  great  valley  of  the  Umpqua.  The  whole 
country  was  rough  and  mountainous,  and  there  was  no 
visible  trail  but  a  small  portion  of  the  way. 

But  with  all  these  difficulties,  we  showed  that  we 
Avcre  fixed  in  our  resolutions  to  leave  this  suspicious 
horde  of  savages  before  darkness  could  favour  them  in 
the  execution  of  any  treacherous  designs  which  they 
might  entertain  towards  us.  Discovering  that  we  were 
ready  to  mount  our  horses,  We- We  became  more  pli- 
able, and  said  that  he  would  proceed  with  us,  on  con- 
dition that  wo  would  pay  him  an  extra  shirt,  we  having 
at  first  given  him  a  shirt  and  a  pair  of  pantaloons. 
Mv.  Lee  said  he  would  give  him  no  more,  but,  to  get 
rid  of  the  difficulty,  I  told  We-We  that  if  he  would  go, 
I  would  give  him  the  additional  shirt  so  soon  as  we  shouh 
reach  the  great  valley.  Turning  to  his  people,  We- 
We  addressed  them  a  few  words  in  the  Umpqua  lan- 
guage, and  then  told  us  he  was  ready  to  go.  Accor- 
dingly, we  left  this  group  of  wretched  beings  about 
hree  o'clock,  p.  m.,  and  galloped  swiftly  over  a  little 

26 


290 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


C 


plain  towards  a  high  mountain.  Three  hours'  hard 
labour  in  ascending  and  descending,  brought  us  to  tho 
foot  of  the  mountain  on  the  opposite  side,  and  passing 
through  a  dense  thicket,  we  found  ourselves  again  on 
the  bank  of  the  river.  We-We  brought  out  a 
well  known  Indian  "whoop,"  and  was  answered 
by  another  Indian,  just  below  us,  on  the  river.  Im- 
mediately four  Indians  came  in  sight,  with  a  canoe, 
and  We-We  told  us  that  we  had  better  unpack  our 
horses,  and  put  all  our  things  in  a  canoe  to  be  taken 
up  the  river,  a  few  miles  beyond  a  place  where  the 
pass  was  very  rocky,  narrow,  and  dangerous.  But  tho 
strange  conduct  of  the  Indians  we  had  left,  had  ex- 
cited our  suspicions ;  and  supposing  that  those  in  tho 
canoe  were  some  of  the  same  party  whom  We-We  had, 
perhaps,  caused  to  come  up  the  river  for  no  good  pur- 
pose, we  resolved  to  keep  what  we  had  under  our  own 
eye  as  long  as  we  could.  We  told  the  guide  that  we 
should  keep  our  things  on  our  horses'  backs.  We- Wo 
hung  his  head,  and  told  us  we  would  be  sorry  for  it 
before  wc  got  through.  We  proceeded,  but  found  it  as 
We-We  had  forewarned  u°.  Our  trail  lay  along  a 
frightful  precipice  which  towered  far  above  us,  and  ex- 
tended far  below  us,  and  in  some  places  was  so  narrow 
and  broken  that  a  miss-step  would  have  precipitated  us 
headlong  on  the  rocks  below,  or  into  the  rushing  waters 
f  the  Umpqua.  In  one  instance  my  own  horse  fell 
from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  down  the  rocks,  but  at  length 
Bucceeded  in  gaining  the  trail  without  receiving  much 
injury. 

But  we  were  not  destined  to  make  the  pass,  without 
considerable  difficulty.     In  passing  the  last  dangerous 


KitikteantmnM^jikim 


■'fl.-.afi.'MTT-.-ifVi'r.i^ 


AD VKN TURKS    IN    OllEGON. 


291 


urs'  hard 
us  to  tlio 
d  passing 
a^ain  on 
t     out    a 
answered 
A^er.     Im- 
a   canoe, 
ipack  our 
I  be  taken 
■where  the 
But  the 
■t,  had  cx- 
lose  in  the 
^e-We  had, 
[good  pur- 
er our  own 
de  that  we 
We-Wc 
orry  for  it 
*ound  it  as 
y  along  a 
js,  and  ex- 
so  narrow 
pitated  us 
ling  waters 
horse  fell 
at  length 
ving  much 

3s,  without 
dangerous 


poiN*''.  "  old  Pomp,"  our  pack  horse,  lost  his  footing, 
and  rolling  down  a  rocky  steep  of  some  thirty  feet, 
went  backwards  into  the  Umpqua  river.  We  hud  fas- 
tened around  his  neck  a  long  lasso,  and  the  end  of  it 
remaining  on  shore,  we  succeeded,  by  drawing  it 
around  a  tree,  in  raising  and  keeping  his  head  above 
the  water  until  We- We  had  relieved  him  of  his  pack. 
While  We-We  was  at  work  among  the  rocks,  where  the 
water  was  up  to  his  neck,  trying  to  relieve  the  horse 
of  his  burden,  he  told  us  tliat  we  might  have  saved  our- 
selves that  difficulty,  if  we  had  trusted  to  the  honesty 
of  an  Indian ;  and  we  ourselves  began  to  suspect  that 
our  fears  had  been  quite  groundless.  It  required  our 
utmost  efforts  to  keep  the  horse  from  drowning;  but 
after  wo  hsid  relieved  him  of  liis  load,  lie  managed  him- 
self a  little  better,  and  finding  a  ])lace  Avhich  was  not 
quite  so  steep  as  the  one  where  he  entered  the  river, 
we  succeeded,  at  that  point,  in  getting  liim  on  the 
rocky  shore.  All  our  bedding,  provisions,  &c.,  were 
thoroughly  soaked ;  but  gathering  up  what  Avas  not 
spoiled,  and  putting  some  on  the  horses,  and  carrying 
some  on  our  own  shoulders,  we  started  on,  being  in- 
formed by  the  guide,  that  it  was  not  far  to  a  fine 
prairie.  Night  began  to  set  in,  and  as  we  left  the 
scene  of  our  disaster,  we  entered  a  dense  forest  of  fir, 
and  the  gloom  continucMl  to  thicken  around  us  until  we 
Avere  enveloped  in  total  darkness.  We  were  leading 
our  animals  by  the  bridle,  and  feeling  our  way  among 
the  trees,  in  the  midst  of  darkness,  so  dense  that  it 
was  impossible  to  see  a  white  horse,  though  within  a 
foot  of  one's  nose,  when  we  became  so  entangled  among 
the  logs,  ravines,  and  brush,  that  we  found  it  was  im- 


292 


PElin/JUS    ADVENTURES. 


f 


mi'"' ' 


possible  to  go  cither  forwards  or  backwards,  to  the 
right  or  to  the  left,  and  colloqviisirig  a  little  through 
the  darkness,  wo  caiuc  to  the  conclusion  to  tie  our 
horses  to  tlic  trees,  and  make  the  best  of  the  night  we 
could.  Having  a  few  matches  in  my  pocket,  and  the 
icavcs  and  limbs  iiMder  my  feet  being  perfectly  dry,  1 
soon  had  the  foresu  illuminated,  and  then  was  disclosed 
to  our  view  a  most  horrible  place.  We  sought  for  a 
spot  on  which  to  sleep,  but  could  find  none  level 
and  large  enough  to  stretch  ourselves  upon.  We  must 
cither  bend  over  the  top  of  a  knoll,  or  double  up  in  a 
ravine,  or  remain  in  a  sitting  or  standing  posture. 
AVc  preferred  the  second,  so  wrapping  ourselves  in  oui 
wet  blankets  and  rolling  into  a  hollow,  we  tried  to 
compose  ourselves  to  sleep  ;  but  the  cracking  of  limbs 
by  the  tramp  of  our  horses,  the  howling  of  wolves, 
and  the  screech  of  an  ov,l,  fre([uently  disturbed  our  re- 
pose. The  morning  sun,  however,  enabled  us  so  to  ad- 
just our  rather  disarranged  aflairs  that  we  could,  quite 
comfortably,  ])rosecute  our  journey.  Next  day  was 
Sabbath,  but  we  conld  not  remain  where  we  were,  and 
we  proceeded  on  a  few  miles,  and  came  to  a  band  of 
about  thirty  of  the  Umpipias,  with  whom  we  tarried  for 
several  Iiours.  They  behaved  themselves  quite  orderly, 
and  v.ere  anxious  to  render  us  all  the  assistance  in 
their  power.  We  preached  the  gospel  to  them  as  well 
as  we  were  able,  and  tliey  said  they  wanted  very  mu^'h 
to  have  a  missionary  come  among  them.  Not  desiring 
to  sleep  in  the  vicinity  of  their  lodge,  we  made  signs 
of  wishing  to  leave,  and  the  old  men  came  around  us, 
of  whom  there  Avcrc  several,  and  patting  us  on  the 
shoulders,  seemed  to  express  great  attachment.     But 


1 

■i 


i 


ADVENTURES    IN    OREGON. 


293 


,  to  the 
through 
d  tie  our 
night  we 
,  and  the 
tly  dry,  1 
disclosed 
ight  for  a 
lone  level 
We  must 
le  up  in  a 
g  posture. 
Ives  in  oui 
e  tried  to 
2  of  limbs 
of  wolves, 
)cd  our  rc- 
s  so  to  ad- 
ould,  quite 
day  was 
were,  and 
|a  band  of 
tarried  for 
;e  orderly, 
jistance  in 
lem  as  well 
ery  mu^^h 
t  desiring 
ade  signs 
round  us, 
us  on  the 
cnt.     But 


we  concluded  that  their  lovo  vras  not  so  ardent  as  to 
render  it  desirable,  on  our  part,  to  stop  with  them  over 
night,  and,  as  our  provision  Avas  growing  scircc,  we 
decided  to  set  our  faces  towards  theWallaracttc  valley. 
Gathering  up  the  wreck  of  our  pack,  v.'c  again  mounted, 
and  travelling  about  twelve  miles,  encamped  on  the 
bank  of  a  beautiful  rivulet  which  is  one  of  the  tribu- 
taries of  the  Umpqua.  We  travelled  during  the  whole 
day  the  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  over  as  fine  a 
country  as  can  be  found  in  any  part  of  tlie  world.  An 
agreeable  variety  of  liills,  plains,  and  groves  of  pine, 
fir,  and  oak,  constituted  scenery  of  tlie  most  picturesque 
beauty,  and  the  eye  was  never  weary  in  gazing  upon 
the  ever  varying  picture.  In  addition  to  tliis,  the  soil 
is  good,  the  grass  abundant,  and  the  counti-y  well 
rratered  ;  but  as  wo  proceeded  up  tlic  valley  of  the 
Umpqua,  the  timber  became  scarce.  A  few  pines  on 
he  hills,  with  a  few  scattering  oak,  arc  the  principal 
kinds.  Though  the  country  h  now  destitute  of  inhabi- 
tants, except  the  wild  beasts,  and  a  few  savages  as 
wild  as  they,  yet  the  day  is  not  far  distant,  when  it 
will  be  teeming  with  a  civilized  and  Christian  people. 

The  Indians  inhabiting  the  Umpqua  valley,  from 
the  Pacific  ocean  one  hundred  miles  into  the  interior, 
are  very  few.  All  that  wo  could  find,  or  get  avj  satis- 
factory cvi'lencc  as  now  in  existence,  did  not  exceed 
three  hundred  and  seventy-five  souls.  These  live  in 
several  different  clans,  and  speak  two  distinct  lan- 
guages. They  would  be  favourable  towards  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  mission  in  their  country,  but  seem  to 
think  that  the  greatest  benefit  it  would  confer  on  them, 

Would  be  to  enable  them  to  sell  their  beaver  and  deer 

or.* 


204 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


!i:*!.tiiii 


skins  for  a  higher  price.  Temporal  good  is  the  sole 
object  they  avouIcI  have  in  view.  The  most  of  them 
residing  as  thej  do  on  the  coast,  are  almost  inacces- 
sible, and  the  establishment  and  support  of  a  mission 
among  them,  would  bo  attended  with  immense  ex- 
pense. The  best  information  wc  could  obtain,  from 
the  Indians  and  others,  led  us  to  the  conclusion  that 
the  time  doubtless  has  been  when  the  Indians  of  this 
valley  were  vastly  more  numerous  than  at  present. 
The  Umpqua  tribe,  but  a  few  years  ago  numbering 
several  hundred,  by  disease  and  tlieir  family  wars  has 
been  reduced  to  less  than  seventy-five  souls.  Under 
the  impression  that  the  doom  of  extinction  is  suspended 
over  this  wretched  race,  and  that  the  hand  of  Provi- 
dence is  removing  them  to  give  place  to  a  people  more 
worthy  of  this  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  Ave  arrived 
at  the  place  of  our  encampment,  and  found  ourselves 
again  on  the  great  California  trail. 

Having  fulfilled  his  engagement  in  bringing  us 
around  to  this  trail,  our  guide  left  us  to  return  to  his 
people. 

•Monday,  September  1st.  We  quickened  our  pace 
through  a  country  well  adapted  to  agricultural  pur- 
poses, and  abounding  in  every  variety  of  scenery  ;  and 
at  noon,  having  travelled  twenty-five  miles,  we  stopped 
for  dinner  on  Elk  river,  at  the  place  Avhere,  on  going 
out,  we  left  the  California  trail.  In  the  afternoon,  we 
again  passed  over  the  Elk  mountain,  and  found  that 
the  fire  was  still  raging  with  increasing  violence.  A 
vast  quantity  of  the  large  fir  and  cedar  timber,  bed 
been  burned  down,  and  in  some  places  the  trail  was  so 
blockaded  with  fallen  trees,  that  it  was  almost  impos- 


1 


ADVENTURES    IN    OllEGON. 


295 


the  sole 
)f  them 
inacces- 
mission 
nse   ex- 
in,  from 
ion  that 
i  of  this 
present, 
imbering 
vars  has 
Under 
ispended 
if  Provi- 
ple  more 
p  arrived 
)urselves 


gmg   us 
n  to  his 


our  pace 
ral  pur- 
3ry ;  and 

stopped 
)n  going 
noon,  we 
ind  that 
nee.     A 

ber,  hfd 
il  was  sa 
}t  impos- 


sible to  proceed;  while  now  and  then  we  passed  a 
giant  cedar,  or  a  mammoth  fir,  through  whose  trunk 
the  fire  had  made  a  passage,  and  was  still  flaming  like 
an  oven.  Every  few  moments  these  majestic  spars 
would  come  "cracking,  crashing,  and  thundering"  to 
the  ground ;  but  while  the  fire  was  thus  robbing  the 
mountain  of  its  glory,  we  pushed  on  over  its  desolated 
ridges,  and  at  sun-down  arrived  on  a  little  prairi<3  at  its 
base,  where  we  made  our  encampment.  Several  times 
during  the  night  we  were  awakened  by  the  crash  of 
the  falling  timber,  on  the  mountain,  which  sometimes 
produced  a  noise  similar  to  that  of  distant  thunder. 

Tuesday,  2d.  Homeward  bound,  at  noon  we  ar- 
rived at  the  Wallamette  valley,  where,  according  to 
engagement,  we  met  the  Callapooah  chief.  He  had 
collected  about  sixty  of  his  people,  and  said  that  he 
had  about  forty  more.  We  remained  with  them  four 
hours,  and  endeavoured  to  preach  to  them  "  Jesus  and 
the  resurrection."  Many  of  them  were  sick,  and 
they  appeared  wretched  beyond  description.  Our 
bowels  of  compassion  yearned  over  them,  but  it  was 
not  in  our  power  to  help  them.  Commending  them 
to  God,  at  four,  p.  M.,  we  pursued  our  way ;  but  find- 
ing no  water,  we  did  not  camp  till  eleven  o'clock  at 
night.  We  were  then  obliged  to  strip  our  horses  on 
the  open  prairie,  and  turn  them  loose  without  water, 
and  lay  ourselves  down  upon  our  blankets  with  our 
lips  parched  with  thirst.  Next  morning,  however,  we 
found  ourselves,  like  Ilagar  in  the  desert,  w^ithin  a 
short  distance  of  good  water.  Here  I  roasted  a 
duck  for  our  breakfast,  which  the  Callapooah  chief  had 
given   us,  and  which  we  ate  with  neither  bread  nor 


1 


^ 
t 


296 


pi;  1 1 1  (.M  s  A  I;  \'  1  ,\'r i ;  f; r:;'?. 


sauce ;  but  a  cup  of  cofTee,  that  "  sine  qtia  non"  for 
prairie  travelling,  washed  it  clown,  and  on  the  strength 
of  it,  we  travelled  forty  miles,  during  the  day,  over  a 
country  of  surpassing  loveliness,  on  account  of  its  en- 
chanting scenery  and  amazing  fertility.  Surely, 
thought  I,  infinite  skill  has  here  been  employed,  in 
fitting  up  a  country  which  requires  nothing  more  than 
»  population  under  the  influence  of  the  religion  of 
Christ,  to  render  it  a  perfect  paradise.  The  last 
night  we  encamped  within  fifteen  miles  of  our  families 
and  friends,  and  the  next  day,  Thursday,  the  4th,  wo 
arrived  at  home  in  safety,  but  found  our  families  all 
prostrate  with  the  ague  and  fever.  Having  been  con- 
stantly in  healthy  exercise  in  our  absence,  we  re- 
turned in  the  enjoyment  of  good  health,  and  were 
consequently  able  to  render  ourselves  useful  in  taking 
care  of  the  sick. 


TERRIBLE  SHIPWRECK  AT  THE  CAPE  OP 

GOOD  HOPE. 


HE  Clangers  which  tra- 
vellers are  often  com- 
pelled to  encounter  while 
journeying  upon  land 
shrink  into  trifles  "when 
compared  "with  those 
attending  voyages  upon 
the  sea.  There,  all  the 
precautions  of  man  arc  most  liable  to  be  unavailing. 
The  largest  vessel  is  but  a  chip  upon  the  mighty  ocean 
when  it  is  lashed  to  fury  in  a  storm. 

The  loss  of  tlie  barque  Francis  Spaight  at  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  was  one  of  many  such  fearful  events. 
Tlie  vessel  had  just  arrived  in  Table  Bay,  when  on  the 
morning  of  the  7th  of  January,  1848,  a  tremendous 
torm  arose.  She  parted  her  anchors,  and  in  attempt- 
ing to  beat  out,  grounded,  broadside  at  tlie  beach. 
The  surf  made  a  complete  breach  over  the  vessel, 
carrying  away  the  bulwark,  long  boat,  main  hatch,  and 
part  of  the  deck,  with  one  of  the  crew. 

The  iidiabitants  of  Capo  Town,  anxious  for  the  fate 
of  the  vessel,  hurried  to  the  beach.  At  first  they 
attempted  to  send  a  ropo  from  the  land  to  the  wreck, 


1 


298 


PERILOUS   ADVEKTUllKi?. 


but  the  rope  broke.  Rockets  with  linos  attaclicd,  wore 
then  fired,  and  one  was  thrown  across  the  foremast  stay, 
where  it  could  not  be  reached  on  account  of  the  fearful 
rolling  of  the  sea.  A  whale-boat  was  then  launched 
and  manned  by  six  daring  fellows,  who  dashed  through 
the  surf,  and  were  soon  alongside  of  the  vessel.  Fifteen 
men,  all  of  the  crew  except  the  carpenter,  got  into  the 
boat  and  pushed  oft".  At  this  moment,  a  tremendous 
wave  upset  the  boat,  and  twenty-one  persons  were  seen 
struggling  in  the  sujj^  for  life.  The  people  on.  shore 
were  terror-stricken  ;  and  men  on  horseback  were  seen 
plunging  into  the  sea,  risking  their  lives  to  save  their 
fellow-creatures  from  an  awful  death.  Eighteen  of 
those  who  were  in  the  boat  perished.  The  masts  of  the 
vessel  fell,  but  the  carpenter  still  clung  to  the  wreck. 
A  surf-boat  and  two  smaller  boats  proceeded  towards 
him.  One  of  these  boats  was  capsized  and  two  lives 
lost ;  but  the  carpenter  was  rescued.  This  man  and 
a  seaman  were  all  of  the  crew  that  reached  the  shore. 
The  bay  where  this  dreadful  disaster  occurred  is  very 
much  exposed  to  storms,  and  its  shores  are  particularly 
dangerous,  on  account  of  their  shelving  character. 
The  inhabitants  of  Cape  Town,  by  their  truly  heroic 
exertions  on  this  occasion  merited  the  admiration  of  the 
brave  of  every  land.  Those  who  perished  while  stri- 
ving to  reach  the  wreck  should  have  had  a  noble  monu' 
ment.  , 


I 


i 


I,  \Yoro 
it  stay, 
fcavful 
unchcd 
hvout^U 
Fifteen 
nto  tlio 
lendovis 
jrc  seen 
a  shore 
jre  seen 
ve  their 
teen  of 
ts  of  the 
c  wreck, 
towards 
wo  lives 
nan  and 
ic  shore. 

ia  very 

Iticularly 

luiracter. 

ly  heroic 

m  of  the 

iiile  stri- 

e  monU' 


ASCENT   OF   MONT   BLANC    BY   MADEMOI- 
SELLE  D'ANGEVILLE. 

EW  females  have  had  the  courage 
and  hardihood  to  attempt  the 
ascent  of  Mont  Blanc.  Among 
tho  first  was  a  French  lady, 
named  d'Angevillc. 

Near  St.  Lambert,  in  the  de- 
partment of  the  Ain,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Avestern  declivity  of  the  Jura,  where  many  rugged 
mountains  are  linked  together,  is  seated  a  mansion 
named  Lompuds.  Hero  iNIademoisolle  d'Angevillc  was 
born  and  brought  up.  She  exercised  herself  at  an 
early  age  in  long  mountain  excursions  in  her  own  neigh- 
bourhood, and  on  one  occasion  walkud  seventy  leagues 
in  four  days.  One  would  scarcely  conceive  her  to  bo 
capable  of  such  an  exertion,  judging  from  her  slender 
figure,  her  small  elegant  foot,  and  a  handsome  hand  of 
corresponding  delicacy.  Her  eye  certainly  betrays 
intelligence  and  firmness,  and  her  language  resolution 
and  the  tone  of  good  society.  At  the  first  sight  of  Mont 
Blanc,  glowing  as  it  then  was  in  the  rays  of  the  setting 
sun,  she  conceived  an  extraordinary  desire  to  be  on  tho 
top  of  it — a  feeling  which  she  has  ever  since  cherished, 
and  which  was  partly  the  cause  of  her  long  visit  to 


1 


300 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUUi:S. 


Kf.e:i. 


Geneva,  where  there  is  so  magnificent  a  viow  of  tliat 
mountain   and   its   fellows.     As   Maclcnjoiscllo   d'An 
gcville  is  not  rich,  it  took  her  several  years  to  savo 
the  sum  requisite  for  the  enterprise,  and  then  she  said 
to  herself,  "I  will  now  accomplish  it." 

In  the  first  days  of  September,  she  proceeded  from 
Geneva  to  Chamouni.  There,  at  the  "  Union,"  she 
immediately  made  known  her  intention.  Every  one 
and  the  guides  themselves,  joined  in  remonstrating  with 
and  dissuading  her.  llegardless  of  all  representations, 
she  persisted  in  her  purpose.  The  guides,  therefore, 
were  at  length  forced  to  relinquish  their  opposition,  and 
to  enter  into  negotiation  with  the  adventurous  lady. 
She  engaged  Joseph  Coutct,  who  had  been  already 
seven  times  on  Mont  Blanc  as  chief  of  the  guides,  hired 
five  others  and  two  porters ;  so  that  the  party  consisted 
altogether  of  nine  persons. 

The  3d  of  September,  as  a  serene  sky  and  a  cool 
air  announced  a  fine  day,  the  necessary  implements  and 
provisions  were  collected,  and  preparations  made  for 
starting.  Over  thick  trowsers  the  lady  put  on  a 
woman's  gown  of  coarse  woolen  stuff,  and  over  that  a 
goatskin  cloak,  such  as  is  commonly  worn  by  the  girls 
ut  the  chalets  on  the  Alps  in  the  vicinity,  a  fur  hood 
coming  far  over  the  face,  and  upon  it  a  large  straw 
hat,  vithout  green  veil  or  green  spectacles.  She  had 
besides,  stout  shoes,  and  the  indispensable  Alpine 
stick,  mounted  with  chamois'  horn. 

Without  difficulty  or  inconvenience,  the  spirited  tra- 
veller passed  the  Torrent  de  Mimont,  the  Pierre  do 
rEchellc,  the  splendid  glacier  of  Bossons,  and  the 
obelisk-like  rocks  of  the  Grands  Mulcts,  where  she  col- 


ASCENT   OP   MONT   BLAJfO. 


001 


•  that 
(I'An 
>  savo 
e  saiJ 

[1  from 
,"   sho 
ry  ono 
A  SI  with 
nations, 
ireforc, 
an,  aiul 
s  lady, 
already 
IS,  hired 
Misistcd 

a  cool 
ints  and 
iide  for 
It   on    a 
that  a 
he  girls 
r  hood 
e  straw 
he  had 
Alpine 

Ited  tra- 
Icrrc  do 
md  tho 
I  she  col- 


lected idunts,  and  wrote  short  notes  as  uicuiurialrf  of  tho 
spot  to  her  friends  and  relations.  Here  a  glorious  night 
awaited  her.  Flooded  by  tho  light  of  a  full  moon, 
tho  vast  fields  of  snow  above,  and  the  sparkling  glaciers 
below  her,  produced  a  surprising  effect,  which  w;.^ 
heightened  by  tho  avalanches  that  descended,  crasliing 
and  thundering  from  the  Dent  du  Midi  past  the  fo;>t 
of  the  rock  below. 

The  magnificence  of  the  scene  allowed  her  not  a 
moment's  sleep,  though  sho  felt  quite  well.  She 
observed  in  tho  moonlight,  how  Munier,  one  of  her 
porters,  had  composed  himself  to  sleep  on  a  narrow 
ridge  of  rock,  in  such  a  manner  that  either  leg  hung 
down  over  a  tremendous  abyss,  into  which  ho  must 
have  fallen  on  the  slightest  movement.  She  ste])pcd 
softly  to  him  and  awakened  him :  he  eyed  her  at  first 
in  amazement,  and  then,  smiling,  quieted  her  with  tho 
assurance  that  ho  should  be  very  glad  if  he  could 
always  find  so  good  a  bed  in  his  mountain  excursions. 

About  three  o'clock  tho  party  pursued  their  route. 
The  guides  had  previously  made  a  hearty  breakfast ; 
but  Mademoiselle  d'Angeville,  having  no  appetite,  con- 
tented herself  with  five  dried  plums  and  snow,  and  sho 
took  nothing  but  this  frugal  meal  between  Chamouni . 
and  the  summit  of  Mont  Blanc,  for  it  was  not  till  sho 
reached  that  point  that  she  felt  any  inclination  fur 
eating.  While  tho  guides  were  breakfasting,  sho 
changed  her  dress  in  the  tent,  putting  on  thick,  warm, 
man's  apparel,  instead  of  the  w^oman'%  gown,  AvhicU 
was  an  obstruction  to  her. 

Continuing  her  journey,  Mademoiselle  d'AngeviUo 
crossed  tho  Taconnaz  glacier,  the  Petites  Montees,  the 

26 


1 


'  mi ' 
Mm;,, 


302 


PERILOITS   ADVENTURES. 


Petit  Plateau,  the  Grandcs  Montccs,  and  tlio  Grand 
Plateau,  Avitli  an  case  that  filled  all  her  guides  with 
astonishment,  and  occasioned  the  repeated  remark  that 
they  had  seldom  seen  a  man  walk,  climb,  and  leap  over 
abysses,  with  such  firmness,  safety,  and  resolution. 
Owing  to  her  experience  in  climbing  mountains,  she 
found  no  difficulty  in  the  ascent  of  Mont  Blanc  as  far 
as  Mur  de  la  Cote ;  and  she  is  surprised  at  all  prece- 
ding travellers,  who  have  described  it  as  so  formidable, 
and  represented  it  as  being  attended  with  such  terrific 
circumstances,  which  she  considers  the  more  incompre- 
hensible, inasmuch  as  the  traveller  is  always  hold  by  a 
strong  rope  tied  round  the  body,  or  steps  upon  poles 
held  in  form  of  a  bridge  between  two  of  the  guides,  so 
that  real  danger  is  quite  out  of  the  question. 

It  was  not  till  slie  had  passed  the  Petits  Mulcts  that 
Mademoiselle  d'Angeville  began  to  be  fatigued,  and 
her  weariness  increased  the  nearer  she  came  to  the 
Mur  do  la  Cote.  This  is  the  last  but  likewise  the 
most  diflicult  acclivity,  on  account  of  its  slope  of  from 
eiffhtv  to  eiirhtv-two  den;rees,  that  you  have  to  climb 
before  you  reach  the  top  of  JNIont  Blanc.  It  is  true 
that  all  the  guides  had  begun  to  flag  excepting  the 
chief,  who  ahvays  went  on  before  her,  and  with  his 
little  axe  had  cut  broad  steps  :n  the  frozen  snow.  Had 
there  been  a  telescope  in  Geneva  that  would  enable  the 
observer  to  distinguish  persons  at  the  distance  of  four- 
teen leagues,  one  might  ha';e  AVatchcd  Mademoiselle 
d'i^  ngeville  limbing  the  sharp  eastern  border  of  the 
Calotte,  and  seen  how  her  motions  gradually  became 
slower,  and  indicated  more  and  more  exhaustion,  and 
how  she  sat  down  every  fifty  paces  to  rest  and  to  take 


)  Grand 

lc3  with 
ai'k  that 
cap  over 
solution, 
lins,  she 
nc  as  far 
ill  prcce- 
rinidable, 
;h  terrific 
ncorapre- 
bickl  by  a 
pen  poles 
guides,  so 

ulets  that 
Tued,  and 
lie  to  the 
,ewise  the 
|c  of  from 

to  climb 

[t  is  true 

[pting  the 

with   his 
Had 


hv. 


Ina 


10 


ble  tl 
of  four- 


lemois 


clle 
of  the 
became 


.1 


Ition,  and 


Ll  to  take 


APCi.NT    OF    MONT   BLANC. 


308 


breath.  The  otherwise  lively  and  courageous  traveller 
was  now  seized  v/ith  an  increasing  despondency,  accom- 
panied by  a  painful  oppression  of  the  chest,  and  a  feel- 
ing as  if  molten  lead  was  circulating  in  her  veins.  She 
assured  me  herself,  that  she  had  mustered  and  exerted 
all  the  energies  of  her  mind,  that  she  might  not  lost 
all  courage  for  proceeding  further.  This  state  she 
calls  an  agony.  Several  times  she  sank  down  in  spite 
of  herself,  and  in  one  of  these  moments — incapable  of 
uttering  a  word — she  heard  her  conductor  say,  "  Jamais 
je  ne  menerai  plus  de  femme  sur  le  Mont  Blanc." 

To  facilitate  her  progress,  Coulet  pulled  by  a  rope 
fastened  round  her  waist ;  and,  but  for  this  assistance, 
she  would  probably  not  have  had  strength  to  reach  the 
summit.  When  she  afterwards  rallied  him  on  his  un- 
gallant  expression,  he  replied  that,  her  situation,  owing 
to  the  extreme  tension  of  the  nerves  and  muscles  at 
that  height,  was  such  as  to  threaten  death ;  that  her 
face  was  quite  distorted,  like  that  of  a  person  who  has 
expired  in  convulsions  ;  and  that  he  was  every  moment 
afraid  lest  he  should  see  her  drop  down  dead.  Fortu- 
nately, with  his  assistance,  her  strength  just  sufficed  to 
reach  the  top,  after  inexpressible  exertions,  on  Tuesday, 
the  4th  of  September,  at  fifty-five  minutes  past  twelve 
o'clock. 

The  moment  the  air  of  the  summit  entered  her  lungs, 
she  felt  cured  and  invigorated — just  the  reverse  of  all 
the  male  ascenders  of  Mont  Blanc,  who  were  always 
weak  and  relaxed  on  the  top.  Not  only  did  her  bodily 
ailments  forsake  her,  but  she  felt  as  it  were  incor- 
poreal, all  spirit,  and  all  gaiety.  The  female  who  the 
day  before  had  been  so  concerned  about  her  .modesty 


•5 


804 


I'KUll.di:;'    ArVllMTKK;^. 


■\vas  here  transforimd  into  a  ihorouglily  natural  and 
joyous  creature :  for,  wlicu  the  chief  guide  remarked 
that  ho  had  a  right  to  a  kiss  on  that  spot,  she  made 
no  resistance,  but  laughingly  presented  her  cheek  for 
the  salute. 

After  the  salute,  Coutet,  ■who  had  before  been  very 
grave,  grew  extremely  gallant,  and  said  to  Mademoi- 
selle d'Angeville,  "II  faut  qu'en  revanche  Mademoiselle 
monte  plus  haut  quo  la  cime  du  Mont  Blanc,  et  qui 
n'est  encore  arrive  a,*|3crsonne." 

At  a  signal  from  him,  all  the  other  guides  lent  a 
hand,  and  fairly  lifted  the  lady  upwards  of  four  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  snow.  After  this  supple- 
mentary ascent,  the  provisions  were  unpacked,  espe- 
cially as  the  lady  had  recovered  her  appetite  where  all 
other  travellers  lose  theirs.  She  ate  with  great  relish, 
and,  as  a  loyal  Frenchwoman,  drank  a  glass  of  cham- 
pagne to  the  health  of  the  Count  do  Paris.  Immedi- 
ately afterwards  she  fell  to  Avork  upon  her  correspon- 
dence, and  wrote  four  or  live  short  letters  to  her  rela- 
tives and  friends  in  Geneva  and  its  environs,  as 
Napuleou  formerly  dated  decrees  from  the  Kremlin. 
In  this  there  was  to  be  sure  something  of  aftectation. 
The  short  time  that  she  passed  here  she  might  have 
eni[)loyed  to  bettgr  purpose  than  in  writing  letters; 
for  now  she  had  but  a  very  brief  interval  for  examining 
the  prospect  in  all  its  parts.  It  was  not  till  she  had 
finished  her  correspondence  that  she  directed  her  at- 
tention to  the  view,  favoured  by  a  perfectly  clear  and 
serene  sky,  such  as  few  have  met  with  on  Mont  Blanc. 

Here  then  stood  Mademoiselle  d'Angeville,  upon  a 
lofty  island,   amidst  an  ocean  of  immense  mountain 


IS 


AGCKNl    or    MONT    llLANC. 


805 


ral  and 
3inaiked 
ic  made 
heck  for 

een  very 
lademoi- 
emoiselio 
c,  ct  qui 

es  lent  a 
four  feet 
is  supple- 
ced,  espc" 
where  all 
cat  relish, 
of  chaui- 
Immcdi- 
;orrespon- 
her  rela- 
,' irons,    as 
Kremlin, 
lil'ectation. 
iirht  have 
letters ; 
xamining 
,11  she  had 
id  her  at- 
clear  and 
,iit  Blanc, 
e,  upon  a 
mouataiu 


waves.  Overlooking  the  miglity  chains  of  the  Cat- 
tian,  Grajan,  Pennine,  and  Ijcpontino  Alps,  and  the 
Alps  of  Glarus,  Uri,  Unterwaldcn,  and  Borne,  which 
lay  at  her  feet,  like  huge  dragons,  with  scales,  horns, 
and  teeth,  she  must  have  been  amply  compensated  for 
what  she  did  not  see,  for  the  view  which  other  travel- 
lers profess  to  have  obtained  of  Milan,  the  Mediterra- 
nean, Venice,  and  the  Adriatic  Sea.  She  declared 
that  she  could  not  discover  the  slightest  trace  of  any 
of  these  objects,  notwithstanding  the  sharpness  of  her 
sight,  and  the  serenity  of  the  atmosphere,  since  at  this 
distance,  even  with  a  good  telescope,  the  wholo  scene 
is  blended  into  an  undefined  mass,  of  an  ash-gray.  On 
this  point,  however,  we  shall  not  insist.  With  rapid 
and  practised  hand  she  made  several  sketches,  and  was 
only  prevented  from  taking  more  by  a  cold  of  8° 
lleaumur.  What  other  travellers  relate  concerning 
great  debility,  sleepiness,  disposition  to  vomit,  bleeding 
at  the  nose,  pain  in  the  eyes,  faintness  of  sounds,  &c. 
she  did  not  find  confirmed  by  her  own  experience.  In 
sliort,  Mont  Blanc  appeared  to  her  in  many  respects 
totally  different  from  what  it  had  done  to  preceding 
travellers. 

After  a  stay  of  fifty  minutes  she  commenced  her 
descent,  which  was  performed  without  accident,  and  of 
course  more  rapidly  than  the  ascent.  That  meteoro- 
logical influence  on  feminine  delicacy  to  which  we  have 
alluded,  still  continued  to  prevail  in  all  its  force,  for 
]\[ademoiselle  d'Angeville  made  no  scruple  to  glide 
down  over  the  mirror-like  surface  of  the  snow  in  the 
same  manner  as  male  travellers,  that  is  to  say  seated, 
the  guide  sitting  between  her  legs,  of  which  he  took 

20* 


1 


306 


PEIIILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


UWI:; 


fast  hold.  Within  half  an  hour  after  they  had  left  the 
top  it  was  enveloped  in  a  dense  fog,  Avhich  did  not 
clear  away  for  above  a  week. 

It  is  a  remarkable  circumstance  that  two  oth(-x  ouc- 
cessful  attempts  to  ascend  Mont  Blanc  were  made  at 
the  same  time  with  Mademoiselle  d'Angeville's.  M. 
Stoppe,  of  Posen,  with  six  guides,  and  M.  Eisenkrtimer, 
the  landlord  of  the  Union,  at  Chamouni,  with  his  guides 
and  parters,  started  shortly  after  her,  passed  the  night 
not  far  from  the  lady,  on  the  Grands  Mulcts,  and 
reached  the  summit  of  the  mountain  very  soon  after 
hci.'.  Thus  there  were  for  a  moment  twenty-four 
persons  at  once  on  the  top  of  Mont  Blanc.  Stoppe 
and  Eisenkramcr  congratulated  the  lady  on  her  suc- 
cessful ascent,  but  stayed  on  the  summit  a  much  shorter 
time  than  she  did,  and  saw  scarcely  any  thing,  for  they 
left  it  again  in  five  minutes,  as  though  they  had  come 
merely  for  the  sake  of  saying  that  they  had  been 
there. 

In  a  few  hours  Mademoiselle  d'Angeville  had  passed 
the  places  which  it  had  cost  such  labour  to  ascend,  and 
reached  the  station  of  the  Grands  Mulcts.  The  days 
were  too  short,  and  the  lady  too  much  fatigued,  for 
her  to  think  of  returning  the  same  day  to  Chamouni, 
as  Eisenkriimer  did,  after  resting  a  while  on  the  rock. 
She  again  passed  the  night  there,  made  several  sketches 
n  the  morning,  and  arrived  about  noon  at  Chamouni, 
where  she  was  received  with  great  rejoicing,  with  songs, 
and  the  firing  of  guns,  both  by  natives  and  foreigners. 
She  dined  at  the  table  d'hote  of  the  Union.  On  the 
following  day  she  gave  the  guides  their  usual  treat, 
which  had  a  peculiar  interest.     At  the  head  of  the 


ASCENT  OF   MONT   BLANC. 


307 


I  left  the 
did  not 

made  at 
le's.     M. 
mkriiraer, 
liis  guides 
the  night 
ilets,   and 
joon  after 
vcnty-four 
.     Stoppc 
1  her  suc- 
ich  shorter 
^,  for  they 
•  had  come 

had  been 

lad  passed 
fScend,  and 

The  days 
;igued,  for 
iChamouni, 

the  rock, 
lal  sketches 
IChamouni, 

ith  songs, 

Iforcigners. 

On  the 

Isual  treat, 

'ad  of  the 


i; 


table  sat  Mario  do  Mont  Blanc,  no  longer  handsome 
and  blooming,  but  lively  and  full  of  spirits,  and  who 
even  drank  so  freely  at  the  dessert  that  her  tongue 
became  very  loud.  Mademoiselle  d'Angeville,  the 
other  female  ascender  of  Mont  Blanc,  was  seated  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  table,  and  did  the  honours  in  the 
genuine  French  style. 


MO.M  BtANO. 


J 


LOSS  OF  THE  VRTHKIb 


Mi.: 


c 


govern    c-nt 


),  HE  slilp  Yrylieid,  of  -whosw  wreck  wo 
i,  arc  about  to  give  fin  account,  was  in 
a  vciy  decayed  state  when  she  was 
pui'cliased  from  the  British  East  In- 
dia Coni})any,  by  some  Dutch  mer- 
chants, wlio  repaired  her  in  a  tolerable 
manner,  and  sold  her  to  the  Dutch 
The  vessel  Avas  equipped  to  carry  troops 
and  ;.iores  to  Batavia.  On  t!ic  morning  of  November 
1,  1S02,  she  set  sail  from  the  Texel,  a  port  on  the 
coast  of  Holland,,  Avith  a  fair  Vvind.  Early  on  the  fol- 
lowinii;  dav,  a  jrale  av '^o  in  an  adverse  direction.  The 
captain  of  the  Vrylicid  im mediately  had  the  top-gal- 
lant masts  and  3^^^!^  strucic,  to  make  her  ride  more 
easily  ;  but,  as  the  day  advanced,  the  force  of  the 
gale  increased,  and  the  crev.-  strove  in  vain  to  manage 
the  ship.  There  were  a  nuudjer  of  women  and  chil- 
dren, passengers  on  bnard,  and  as  the  ship  was  driven 
en  1)y  tlie  fuvious  blai^t,  their  sLate  was  truly  heart- 
rending. 

About  the  riiiddlo  of  tiio  aftoi-noon,  the-  mainmast  fell 
overboard,  s\vee})i!iy  several  <jf  the  crew  into  the  sea, 
and  scn'ci'ely  injiiriiig  four  or  fl\e  more.  The  vessel 
was  then  so  near  llio  coa>:t  of  Kent,  England,  that  ob- 


(  wreck  wo 
lit,  was  in 
211  she  was 
[\  East  In- 
)utch  incr- 
a  tolerable 
the  Dutch 
;arry  troops 
Novctuher 
)ort  on  the 
on  the  fol- 
ction.    The 
the  top-gal- 
ride  move 
[orce  of  the 
to  manage 
In   and  chil- 
was  driven 
ruly  heart- 

lainmast  fell 
[ito  the  sea, 
The  vessel 
Ul,  that  ol)- 


^M 


ili.i!  :.;'•, 


lT:V'ir 


i!.^; 


.ilipi. 


fU:m 


'  ■'''       ■  11    :     .ill 


m-i 


,|.;;:;:;;, 


pi 

ill!!  i/i:'';.  I 


;-i 


c 

s 

f] 

1j 
ti 

tl 
ti 

S( 

P 

St 
6G 


10. ^r    ')1- 


:ii). 


311 


jects  could  bo  discerned  on  land,  but  the  tremendous 
Wiives  prevented  the  approacli  of  aid.  At  length,  the 
ship  Avas  brought  to  anchor  in  Ilytho  Bay,  and  for  a  fcvr 
moments,  hope  cheered  the  breasts  of  those  on  board. 
Soon  after,  however,  she  was  found  to  have  sprung  a 
leak,  and  while  all  hands  were  busy  at  the  pumps,  the 
storm  came  on  with  renewed  fury.  All  that  night  the 
gale  continued,  and  those  on  board  the  Vryheid  were 
kept  in  a  horrible  state  of  suspense.  About  six  o'clock 
the  following  morning,  the  ship  parted  from  one  of 
her  largest  anchors,  and  drifted  on  towards  Dimchurch- 
wall,  about  three  miles  to  the  west  of  Hythe.  The 
vvcw  continued  to  fire  guns,  and  hoist  signals  of  dis- 
tress. At  daybreak,  a  pilot  boat  put  ofi'from  Dover, 
and  nearing  the  Vryheid,  advised  the  captain  to  put 
back  to  Deal  or  Ilythe,  and  wait  for  calmer  weather. 
]>ut  the  ca retain  would  not  act  on  this  recommendation  ; 
ho  thought  the  pilot  boat  exaggerated  the  danger, 
hoped  the  wind  would  abate  as  the  day  opened,  and 
that  he  should  avoid  the  demands  of  the  Dover  pilot 
or  the  Down  fees,  by  not  casting  anchor  there.  No 
sooner  had  the  pilot  boat  departed,  than  the  commo- 
dore at  Deal  despatched  two  boats  to  endeavour  to 
board  the  ship.  The  captain  stubbornly  refused  to 
take  any  notice  of  them,  and  ordered  the  crew  to  let 
the  vessel  drive  before  the  wind.  This  they  did, 
till  the  ship  ran  so  close  in  shore,  that  the  captain  him- 
self saw  the  imminent  danger,  and  twice  attempted  to 
put  her  about,  but  in  vain.  On  the  first  of  the  pro- 
jecting jetties  of  Dimchurchyard  wall,  the  vessel 
struck.  No  pen  can  describe  the  horrors  of  the 
Bcene  that  ensued.     The  ship  continued  tO  beat  on  the 


312 


i'i;i;!i,'-.r/ 


i;k.-'. 


piles,  the  sea  broakiui:  ovit  hci'  with  .>iich  violence  that 
the  pumps  could  no  h)n;^or  ho  worked.  The  foremast 
soon  went  over  the  side,  carrying  twelve  seamen  -with 
it  among  the  boiling  waves.  The  rudder  was  un- 
shipped, the  tiller  tore  up  the  gun  deck,  and  the  water 
rushed  in  at  the  port-holes.  At  this  dreadful  moment, 
most  of  the  passengers  and  crew  joined  in  solemn  prayer 
to  the  Almighty.  The  morning  witnessed  the  com- 
plete destruction  of  the  wreck.  Numerous  eftbrts  were 
made  to  reach  the  shore  by  means  of  the  boats,  rafts 
and  hogsheads.  But  out  of  472  persons -who,  a  few 
days  before  had  sailed  from  Holland,  only  18  escaped, 
These  were  well  treated  by  the  inhiibitants  of  the 
coast.  It  was  generally  believed  at  tin'  time  that  the 
vessel  could  have  been  saved,  if  the  captain  had  not 
shut  his  ears  against  those  who  wore  competent  to  ad- 
vise. The  stubbornness  of  the  commander  has  fre- 
quently proved  fatal  under  such  circumstances. 


^Mz^jS^'^"      ~^ 


MANDAN  liunriNa-ri.ACE. 

ADVENTURES  UPON  THE  UPrEll  MISSOURI. 


HE  Missouri  is  a  branch  of  that  vol 
umo  of  Avatcrs,  ^vhich,  under  the  name 
of  Mississippi,  pours  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  Its  main  stream  and  several 
important  tribuljiries,  flow  for  several 
hundreds  of  miles  through  tracts  of  prairie  land 
chiefly  inhabited  bv  tlio  Crov,-,  IJhickfoet,  As- 
sinaboins,  and  other  tribes  of  Indians.  In  spite 
of  inimerous  treaties  between  these  tribes  and 
the  Avhites,  a  hostile  feclintr  pr<'vails,  and  the  danger  of 
trav(;Hing  through  the  region  is  thel'eby  nuich  increased. 


314 


I'EUILOUt!    ADVKXTUUi:^. 


JMni 


In  1837,  a  younp;  man  visited  tlic  most  advanced  post 
of  tlic  Upper  Missouri,  upon  some  business  concerning 
the  collection  of  peltries.  After  the  conclusion  of  his 
Bcrvicc,  an  account  of  his  adventures  was  anonymously 
published.  From  this,  wo  make  a  few  extracts,  illus- 
Initing  the  mode  of  life  and  the  perils  to  bo  met  with 
in  the  wilds  of  the  '*fir  v>est:" 

Our  young  frieinl  proceeded  to  his  place  of  duty  by 
way  of  the  Ohio,  St.  Louis,  and  Council  liluffs.  Hero 
he  had  to  commence  with  his  assooiates,  a  long  land 
journey  upon  horseback.  The  horses  which  were  to 
carry  tlicm,  came  with  their  baggage,  from  St.  Louis, 
to  the  opposite  side  of  the  ^lissouri,  there  a  rpuirtcr  of 
a  mile  broad.  "  We  had  neither  a  canoe  nor  a  boat  to 
brinj:  over  the  bafrj^ajTe ;  but  this  was  a  sm;:ll  matter 
in  the  Indian  country.  Two  skins  were  soon  fi.-:ed  by 
{«ome  squaws,  while  avo  commenced  and  made  a  frame, 
which  we  covered  and  made  a  canoe  of  in  less  than  an 
hour.  Although  it  was  pretty  largo,  and  could  easily 
carry  six  men,  a  boy  of  fourteen  might  have  carried  it 
a  whole  day,  without  being  fatigued.  All  the  men  and 
liorscs  were  got  safely  across.  The  party  numbered 
thirty-one.  W^hcn  they  stopped  for  the  night,  each 
man  rolled  himself  in  his  blanket,  took  his  saddle  for 
a  pillow,  and  lay  down  to  rest  beside  a  fire,  unless  the 
weather  was  rainy,  in  which  case  they  raised  a  tent. 

"  Our  road  lay  through  a  pretty  prairie,  intersected 
here  and  there  with  small  streams.  Many  of  those 
being  very  difficult  to  cross,  owing  to  their  soft  muddy 
bottoms,  all  hands  had  to  cut  weeds  and  branches  to 
throw  upon  the  banks,  to  prevent  the  pack-horses  from 
miring.     There  was  "one  in  particular  so  bad,  that  we 


;c(l  post 
iccrning 
m  of  his 
ymously 

3ts,  illus- 
met  witli 


duty  by 
3.     I  lore 
ong  liind 
were  to 
5t.  Louis, 
uartcr  of 
a  boat  to 
11  matter 
I  fixed  by 
a  frame, 
than  an 
lid  easily 
carried  it 
men  and 
umbered 
;ht,  each 
id  die  for 
nlcss  the 
tent, 
ersected 
of  tliose 
't  muddy 
chcs  to 
ics  from 
that  we 


w 


«A^'':.fc/# 


•'&'%r:v.A< 


ADVENTURES  IN  THE  UPPER  MISSOURI. 


317 


had  to  bridge  it  completely ;  one  of  the  men  had  led 
my  horse  over,  I  was  following,  but- keeping  too  near 
the  side,  my  foot  slipped,  and  down  I  went  nearly  over 
the  head,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  company.  I 
never  rainded,  but  mounted  my  horse  and  rode  on  till 
wo  camped  at  mid-day,  when  I  got  dry.  The  Canadian 
clerk  laughed  at  me  more  than  any  of  them,  but  I  was 
destined  soon  to  have  ample  revenge.  We  had  to 
cross  a  creek  a  few  days  afterwards,  and  one  of  the 
men  having  waded  through  and  found  it  passable,  Mr. 
Canadian  was  to  go  first ;  he  was  turning  his  horse 
close  upon  the  edge  of  the  stream,  below  where  wo 
should  have  crossed,  when  the  horse  stepped  back,  and, 
finding  his  hind  feet  fast,  reared  and  kicked,  until 
making  a  terrible  effort  to  extricate  himself,  he  reared 
full  back,  and  pitched  Brui^,iere  right  into  the  middle  of 
the  river.  He  went  fairly  over  head  and  ears,  and  as 
soon  as  he  could  extricate  himself,  made  for  the  side 
with  all  speed :  when  we  found  that  he  was  not  hurt, 
we  laughed  so  heartily  at  him  that  he  was  inclined  to 
get  sulky  ;  but  it  was  of  no  use,  as  it  made  us  laugh 
the  more." 

In  nineteen  days,  they  arrived  at  Fort  St.  Pierre, 
obtaining  provisions  as  they  went  .along  from  friendly 
Indians.  They  were  now  approaching  the  Mandan 
village,  a  conspicuous  seat  of  Indian  population,  at  the 
point  where  the  Missouri  changes  its  course  from  the 
east  to  the  south.  Here  we  have  a  striking  anecdote 
illustrative  of  one  class  of  the  perils  to  which  savage 
life  is  exposed.  "  We  were  in  great  fear  that  the  fort 
at  the  Mandan  village  had  been  destroyed  by  the  In- 
dians, as  an  express  that  had  been  sent  there  was 

27* 


318 


riaULCUS   ADVE.NTUKES. 


0fm 


fifteen  clays  beyond  tlio  liinc  of  returning.  Mr.  Camp, 
bell  wished  Mr.  JMitcliell  to  stay  a  few  days,  or  fiiiling 
tliat,  to  go  out  into  the  prairie  and  avoid  the  village 
altogether;  as  if  the  Iliccaras  had  taken  the  Mandan 
post,  they  would  be  waiting  for  us,  and  we  would  have 
no  chance  with  thera,  they  with  their  allies  mustering 
one  thousand  warriors.  Mr.  Mitchell,  however,  thought 
he  would  run  the  risk,  so  we  crossed  the  river,  as 
there  were  few  Indians  on  the  other  side ;  from  here 
we  had  to  keep  a  very  sharp  look-out.  My  turn  for 
guard  came  every  five  nights :  but  they  never  at- 
tempted to  steal  our  horses.  As  we  came  near  the 
Mandan  post,  we  had  to  conceal  our  fires  as  much  as 
possible,  and  look  more  strictly  after  the  horses.  At 
last  we  arrived  within  about  fifteen  miles,  and  en- 
camped in  a  hollow.  All  was  anxiety  and  speculation 
about  the  state  of  aiTairs  at  the  post.  We  started  early 
in  the  morning,  every  gun  being  ready  for  action,  and 
reached  within  four  miles  pretty  early  in  the  day. — 
Mr.  Mitchell,  Mr.  Christie,  and  one  of  the  men,  went 
under  cover  of  the  wood  on  the  river  to  reconnoitre. 
We  remained  behind  all  ready  in  case  of  alarm.  Mr. 
Mitchell  was  astonisheu  at  seeing  no  Indians  near  the 
village ;  he  fired  his  gun,  and  one  of  the  men  at  the 
fort  having  heard  him,  came  across  and  took  him  over. 
There  was  a  melancholy  tale  to  unfold — eight  hundred 
and  eighty-eight  had  died  of  the  small-pox,  which  was 
brought  up  with  the  steam-boat  belonging  to  our  com- 
pany in  the  spring,  and  nothing  was  heard  but  the  wild 
wail  of  the  poor  Indians  that  were  left.  The  Mandans 
were  all  dead  except  tliirty-two,  and  that  small  num- 
ber  have   been    turned   out   of  their   village    by  the 


ADVENTURES  IN  THE  UlTEll  MISSOURI. 


819 


Riccaras  in  a  state  of  absolute  starvation.  We 
pushed  away  from  this  place  for  the  Yellowstone,  We 
found  Riccaras  and  Gros-Ventres  all  along  the  river, 
and  at  every  place  nothing  but  death  and  devastation. 
When  we  reached  the  Yellowstone,  small-pox  had 
ceased  in  the  fort,  but  whr.lo  bands  were  dying  out. 
Here,  [Fort  Mackenzie  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,]  and 
over  the  mountains,  about  nine  out  of  twelve  are 
dying,  and  almost  every  Indian  avIio  comes  to  the  fort 
to  trade,  is  either  ill  with  the  disease  or  getting 
better.  There  have  been  nineteen  deaths  in  this  fort, 
but  only  three  of  them  white  men,  who  had  never  been 
inoculated." 

The  party  spent  in  all  eighty-seven  days  in  the 
journey  from  St.  Louis  to  Fort  Mackenzie,  during 
which  time  our  young  friend  slept  only  sixteen  nights 
under  a  roof.  lie  describes  his  mode  of  life  as  healthy, 
the  chief  viands  being  buffalo  Jtakes,  eaten  twice  a 
day. 

A  subsequent  letter  is  dated  from  Fort  INIackenzio, 
7th  April,  1839.  "  When  I  last  wrote,  the  boats  were 
about  to  start  with  the  peltries  for  the  Y^'ellowstone, 
leaving  a  mixed  garrison  in  our  fort  of  only  nine.  It 
was  not  long  till  we  got  into  a  very  pretty  scrape 
with  a  party  of  Crow  Indians,  w^ho  are  a  set  of  rascals, 
rushing  upon  us  suddenly  for  the  purpose  of  carrying 
off  our  horses.  I  happened  to  be  near  where  they 
were  feeding  at  the  time ;  I  unluckily  was  unarmed  ; 
but  I  will  copy  the  account  of  the  affray  from  my 
journal. — Tuesday,  May  22. — About  twelve  o  clock  I 
went  out  to  the  horses ;  they  were  quite  close  to  the 
fort :  on  my  way  I  saw  one  of  the  horse  guards  coming 


■J 


320 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


dovn  beliind  the  fort,  ■\vliore  lie  had  been  reconnoitering ; 
he  reported  that  he  had  seen  no  signs  of  Indians 
being  near.  I  remained  about  fifteen  minutes  ■with 
him,  and  then  went  back  towards  the  fort.  I  had 
scarcely  left  him  -when  one  of  the  men  called  to 
me  that  the  Gros-Ventres  Indians  Avere  on  the  hill,  a 
party  of  whom  had  been  at  war  with  the  Assinaboins, 
and  of  wliom  two  had  arrived  the  previous  night.  In 
this  he  was  wrong,  for  they  were  not  Gros-Ventres  but 
Crow  Indians.  From  the  way  in  which  the  Indians 
approached  the  horses,  I  suspected  they  designed  no 
good ;  I  ran  back  to  assist  the  guard  in  gathering 
them,  and  drove  them  towards  the  fort.  The  Indians 
came  upon  us  at  full  gallop,  mostly  all  naked,  and  com- 
menced firing  as  soon  as  they  were  within  shot. 
The  guard,  however,  kept  them  off  till  we  got  the 
horses  close  to  the  river  bank,  which  put  it  out  of  the 
power  of  the  rascals  to  surround  us.  I  pushed  them 
on  as  well  as  I  could,  but  they  were  so  frightened  by 
the  Indians  galloping  backwards  and  forwards,  that  I 
could  scarcely  get  them  to  move.  During  all  this 
time  they  kept  up  a  smart  fire,  which  was  returned  by 
one  of  the  guards,  whilst  the  other  retained  his  fire, 
and  whenever  an  Indian  attempted  to  rush  among  the 
horses  he  presented  his  gun,  which  had  the  effect  of 
sending  him  to  the  right  about.  I  had  no  arms 
whatever,  otherwise  I  might  have  knocked  some  of 
them  over.  It  was  any  thing  but  pleasant  to  hear  the 
balls  whistling  about  one's  ears,  and  not  bo  able  to  re- 
turn the  compliment.  I  always  expected  they  would 
fire  from  the  fort  with  grape  shot.  In  this,  however, 
I  was  disappointed,  although  one  of  the  men  had  the 


ABVEOTURES  IN  THE  UPPER  MISSOURI. 


321 


itermg ; 
Indians 
S3   "witli 
I   hiul 
illcd    to 
e  liill,  a 
laboins, 
ht.     In 
itres  but 
Indians 
[fncd  no 
ithcring 
Indians 
nd  com- 
in    sliot. 
got  the 
t  of  the 
ed  them 
ened  by 
I,  that  I 
all  this 
irncd  by 
his  fire, 
long  the 
effect  of 
no   arms 
some  of 
hear  the 
le  to  re- 
;y  would 
lowever, 
had  the 


cannon  primed,  and  the  match  lighted.  This  was,  to 
all  appearance,  our  only  chance  of  escaping  with  our 
lives  ;  but  the  clerk  who  had  charge  would  not  allow 
the  man  to  fire,  though  the  Indians  were  loading  and 
firing  as  fast  as  they  possibly  could.  One  fellow  with 
a  red  shirt  fired  three  shots  at  me ;  the  two  first  were 
far  too  high,  but  the  third  time  he  took  better  aim,  I 
dodged,  and  the  bullet  whistled  close  to  my  ear.  After 
this  they  scampered  ofi".  I  then  ran  into  the  fort  for 
my  rifle,  in  case  they  should  return  we  could  get  the 
horses  in.  I  had  just  time  to  run  up  to  the  north 
bastion,  and  put  on  my  powder-horn  and  ball-pouch, 
when,  looking  out  at  one  of  the  ports  to  my  inexpres- 
sible grief,  I  saw  the  horses  gallop  down  past  the  fort. 
They  had  made  a  run,  and  none  of  the  men,  who  by 
this  time  were  outside,  attempted  to  stop  them,  or  to 
assist  the  guard  in  doing  so.  The  Indians  then  seized 
the  opportunity,  and  carried  them  all  off :  we  fired  two 
rounds  of  grape,  and  blazed  away  with  our  muskets, 
but  to  no  purpose,  for  they  soon  got  out  of  our  reach. 
What  made  the  affair  so  annoying  was,  that  three  of 
us  had  risked  our  lives,  and  had  succeeded  in  bringing 
the  horses  to  the  gate,  whilst  those  inside  had  rendered 
us  no  assistance  whatever.  I  had  a  good  buffalo  run- 
ner, which  cost  me  upwards  of  seventy  dollars :  he 
went  with  the  rest.  The  horses  belonging  to  the  com- 
pany were  all  fine  animals,  the  trash  having  been  sold 
off  in  the  Spring.  The  party  of  Indians  consisted  of 
about  sixty  men,  all  well  mounted  and  armed." 

The  meetings  with  the  Indians  for  trading  purposes, 
which  generally  take  place  after  the  arrival  of  a  boat 
at  the  fort  with  goods,  are  thus  described : — "  Each 


II 


322 


I'iiUrf.OU.S    ADVf:NTl;Il['Js', 


C 


chief  heads  his  band  of  warriors  ;  the  flag  is  lioistod, 
and  a  cannon  fired,  on  the  arrival  of  the  different 
chiefs,  ■\vho  generally  bring  presents  of  boaver-robes  or 
horses  for  the  chief  of  the  fort.  In  return  for  tiiese, 
they  are  presented  with  dresses,  &c.  After  smoking 
and  haranguing  in  favour  of  the  whites  for  a  while, 
they  get  a  very  hirge  kettle  of  liquor  before  leaving  the 
fort.  So  soon,  however,  as  they  get  outside,  the  row 
commences  ;  nun,  women,  and  children,  yelling  and 
singing  like  a  pack  of  fiends — tumbling  about  in  every 
direction,  in  every  vai'iety  of  nudity,  for  very  few  of 
them  can  boast  'of  a  complete  dress,  especially  in 
BU'.....er  time.  A  few  of  tlu^  greatest  men  are  admit- 
ted into  the  fort  to  sell  their  peltries.  Among  these  is 
the  great  chief  of  the  lilackfect ;  he  won't  trade  with 
any  but  me.  ^Vlien  he  enters  the  gate,  none  of  his 
band  dare  follov,'  him,  lu;  has  them  all  so  well  under 
command,  llis  medicine  is  a  weasel,  with  five  or  six 
bells  attached  to  the  nose,  and  slung  across  his  shoulder 
with  a  piece  of  old  ru)ui ;  these  he  must  ring  before  he 
smokes,  or,  as  is  often  the  case,  one  of  his  band  rings 
them  behind  h's  back  when  he  takes  his  pipe,  lie  is  a 
fine  old  fellow  ;  and  I  should  think  from  his  appearance, 
he  is  at  least  about  six  feet  four  or  five  inches  high.  He 
affects  the  dress  of  a  white  man,  and  delights  in  a  pair 
of  pantaloons,  hat,  &c.  I  had  almost  forgot  to  mention 
another  remarkable  personage,  who  is  second  to  none 
in  this  country ;  his  name  is  Le  lleynard.  He  is  one 
of  those  fellows  that  Avill  make  himself  heard,  and  wants 
to  be  thought  a  chief ;  but  he  is  so  hard  up,  poor  fel- 
low, that  they  do  not  look  upon  him  as  such.  When 
the  Blood  Indians  came  on  ceremony,  he,  of  course,  was 


hoisted, 
diflei-ent 
-vobos  or 
31-  these, 
smolving 
a  while, 
xA'ing  the 
the  row 
lling   and 
in  every 
y   fcAV  of 
ecially  in 
Lvc  uilmit- 
i2  these  is 
,1-ade  with 
ne   of  his 
ell  un(k'r 
ve  or  six 
s  shoulder 
before  he 
land  rings 
lie  is  a 
►pea  ranee, 
hii^h.    lie 
in  a  pair 
0  mention 
d  to  none 
He  is  one 
and  wants 
,  poor  fel- 
h.     When 
oursc,  was 


BLACKFOOT    CHIEF. 


• 

thcf 

I  SU 

than 
to  th 
trout^ 
neck 
liat  I 

I.'lUf^l 

with 

able 

' 

'    ■ 

great 

c 

» 

• 

#»»w.. 

■   "ir      ■    ■■ 

=^.^ 

• 

'       *- 

.  '  ""'  ■ '  "..  ■V-  •'■" . 

^ 

■-•- 

C  ■.'  ■'  ^'"-    ■  '■ 

^^ 

♦ .     '   , 

'-'' 

■'> 

H 

'. 

^'^'\.J^-  ■''j'-is.,-:.    '!^'. 

M 

r             V    .           :  'V,  - 

'-  i- 

^^ 

■'=    ■   '      -  "  %-^^ ''";-  '-  '- 

^HS 

.    .'*i^    .  ,  -    - 

r  ^,    ■■ 

'    ■    r         ^-     .''   ■■     * 

^^bIkS 

-                        ..                      \^'''    r                   ^ 

*:■ ;            <• 

•-.     *-:    >-■""■-■-■!        '                     " 

^flSul 

,.•■--:-'  -•               :  •  y'-^'"        ;  ;  * 

,.,'^'  ,  .•  j^~-r^-'        -■-     , 

^HmH 

'•^"^o^-  :      ••>'■    "             ' -      --          '    ' 

uSmu^B 

,      '  -!'(    -   .      ''^                  ■  •  j^^-  *-   ■       Ji'-f' 

-  /    ^ 

'  .  -,  ,    ■■:      -''  ■''  '-'^^ 

^jH 

-                   '■  "^  -.  ■■  *"''      ,        .  ' 

1 

« 

• 

• 

- 

ADVENTUUK.^  IX  Tlli:  UlTEll  MLS.SOUIII. 


the  principal  niiin,  or  at  least  protended  to  be  so,  because, 
I  suppose,  ho  tliouglit  Inniself  more  like  a  "white  man 
than  any  of  the  others.  lie  funned  the  order  of  march 
to  the  fort.  Ilis  dross  consisted  of  a  pair  of  old  duck 
trousers,  an  old  vest,  and  a  piece  of  old  calico  for  a 
neckerchief,  but  not  a  rag  in  the  shape  of  a  shirt  or 
hat  had  ho.  His  appearance  was  too  much  for  me :  1 
laughed  till  I  set  mostly  all  the  others  off,  and  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  wo  composed  ourselves,  and  were 
able  to  receive  them  with  the  dignity  becoming  such 
great  men." 


91 


28 


WRECK  OF  IHEl'ORFARSHIRE  STEAMBOAT. 


c 


*!i5i;; 


I  m  Hk  I  HE  name  of  Grace  Darling  has  at- 
Ij^  TrKcyJ  tained  a  wide  celebrity ;  but  we  doubt 
whether  the  fearful  scene  in  which  that 
heroic  girl  acted  so  conspicuous  a  part, 
is  so  generally  known.  It  was  at  early 
dawn,  one  September  morning,  18o<S, 
that  the  Darling  family  at  the  Long- 
stone  light-house,  on  one  of  the  Fame  isles,  discovered 
the  wreck  of  a  steam  vessel  on  the  rocks.  It  was  the 
Forfarshire,  on  her  passnge  from  Hull  to  Dundee. 
She  left  the  former  place  with  G3  persons  on  board. 
She  had  entered  Berwick  bay  about  eight  o'clock  the 
previous  evening,  in  a  heavy  gale  and  in  a  leaky  con- 
dition. The  fires  could  not  be  kept  burning.  About 
ten  o'clock  she  bore  up  off  St.  Abb's  Head,  the  storm 
still  raging.  Soon  after,  the  engineer  reported  that 
the  engines  would  not  work.  The  vessel  then  became 
unmanageable.  The  appearance  of  breakers  and  the 
Fame  lights,  showed  to  all  their  imminent  danger. 
The  captain  tried  to  run  the  vessel  between  the  islands 
and  the  main  land,  but  she  would  not  obey  the  helm. 
Between  three  and  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  she 
struck  with  her  bows  foremost,  on  a  jagged  rock,  which 


w 
o 


J, 


MBOAT. 


has    at- 
wc  doubt 
hicli  that 
IS  a  part, 
s  at  early 
ig,   1838, 
he  Long- 
liscovcroil 
t  was  tlic 
Dundee. 
t)n   board, 
clock  the 
eaky  con- 
About 
he  storm 
rted  that 
n  became 
s  and  the 
t  danger, 
he  islands 
the  helm, 
ning,  she 
Dck,  which 


|) 


IS'*' 


'■ft. 


• 

• 

pici 
trci 

« 

I                 ' 

• 

and 

'    t     ■ 

?*■  i-'-rf.  ^"J  . 

brct 

'.',.'               ,        ■'           '■  "■■.^ 

■  "      '-^       : 

mar 

.  ~ 

upo 

■    ,  ,  '             -..  ■•■  .'  -  i .  ■                .y      .'     .  .           ■    ,     . 

^; 

the 

■--.;:  '-[U-:-"^-^:..:.   '  :  -,L 

.        / 

the 

?         ■-!       ■-"                                    .                 ■        , 

full 

■",.         '          _-     "             » 

• 

the 

.     .  ■■■■  ;_^-:_"   ■:;^v,y"^' 

1,     ''    ..'■'i  ■■ 

G 

1 

"       ■'     _  ■.'    n 

Fill 

r'/-    ..■:  -'>■':> 

wre( 

^  '?;.■  "■                           ■,■'                                    •' 

tool< 

■'  *•    '•    '  •              -  ■  '  -  •  ''-i:- 

■      ,,*:>;, 

ncv( 

'  .--■**?'"  '       ■     :--v,  ■:  ■  .;;-                 '    ,', 

"'  ■ 

erti( 

-      ";     -           '-fU^,    ,           '4    .    "                    "" :  ;■  ~.\*^;   ■     '  tV 

■-  ^'.1     .  ^ ,, 

the 

,'  '■•'  y^'H'-.' 

the 

■'■'        ,    '                 '                -  ■    '^  -  -^^    ' 

;.;.  ,     .-.v^vy'- 

G 

bra\ 

■  ;  .  >           .'■•*'                    '-r  ■■>■' 

■  ''■■  .''i 

ufai 

'      '"                                   '  '  ^'   '             *.'  1 

■^■.  -,  -.' 

ligh 

■ ',  ;-  ■,    .  ■.■.  ■v-;'---  ;';-  '^-^       ■'  '  "'  '■ 

'  -  ■  ^ 

]mn( 

■  i^'   ■,  ^    -  .■ . 

•    ■'    ^'  '/ 

and 

;^   ■•"'■-  y-.'''^'r'"t':^  :*:*>  '.v;^. 

I    :?  ■  ■  "  '  . 

thre 

.  .-..''. 

■     ,•    ' 

/                 :    ■       >■  ■         '  ,    ,  y' 

• 

,« 

, 

, 

WRECK  OF  THE  roUFAUSniIlE  STEAMIIOAT. 


329 


pierced  her  tinibers.  Soon  after  the  first  shock,  a 
trcuicndous  wave  lifted  the  stctnnboat  from  the  rock, 
and  let  her  fall  again  with  such  violence  as  fairly  to 
break  her  in  two  pieces.  The  after  part,  containing 
many  passengers  was  instantly  carried  away,  and  all 
upon  it  perished ;  the  forepart  remained  fixed  upon 
the  rock.  The  survivors,  only  nine  in  number — five  of 
the  crew  and  four  passengers,  remained  in  this  dread- 
ful situation  until  day-break,  when  they  were  seen  by 
the  family  at  the  light  house. 

Grace  Darling  was  then  about  22  years  of  age. 
Filled  with  pity  for  the  condition  of  those  on  the 
wreck,  she  urged  her  father  to  launch  the  boat.  She 
took  one  oar  and  her  father  took  the  other.  She  had 
never  rowed  before  ;  but  by  the  most  determined  ex- 
ertions amid  the  furious  sea,  she  succeeded  in  aiding 
the  boat  to  the  rock,  and  in  taking  off  the  survivors  of 
the  wreck.     All  were  landed  safely  at  the  light-house. 

Grace  needed  no  reward  but  the  approval  of  her  own 
brave  heart.  But  the  news  of  her  heroic  deed  spread 
afar,  and  strangers  came  to  visit  her  at  the  lonely 
light-house.  They  showered  gifts  upon  her,  and  seven 
hundred  pounds  were  raised  by  public  subscription 
and  presented  to  her.  Her  death  took  place  about 
three  years  after  the  wreck  of  the  Forfarshire  steai»er, 


H 


THE   CROCODILE  BATTERY. 


c 


LATE  English  traveller  relates 
the  following  stirring  adven- 
tures and  singular  exploit : 

In  the  summer  of  1846, 
when  every  body  in  England 
was  crazy  with  railway  giun- 
bling,  I  was  sojourning  on 
the  banks  of  the  llohan,  a 
small  stream  in  one  of  tlie 
northwestern  provinces  of 
India.  Here  I  first  became  acquainted  with  the  Mug- 
ger, or  Indian  Crocodile.  I  had  often  before  leaving 
England,  seen,  in  museums,  stuffed  specimens  of  the 
animal,  and  had  read  in  "Voyages  and  Travels,"  all 
Borts  of  horrible  and  incredible  stories  concerning  them. 
I  had  a  lively  recollection  of  Water  ton  riding  close  to 
the  water's  edge  on  the  back  of  an  American  cayman, 
and  I  had  a  confused  notion  of  sacred  crocodiles  on  the 
banks  of  the  Nile.  I  always  felt  more  or  less  inclined 
to  regard  tlie  whole  race  as  having  affinities  with  Sin- 
bad's  "roc,"  and  the  wild  men  of  the  woods,  who  only 
refrained  from  speaking  for  fear  of  being  made  to 
work. 

My  ideas  respecting  the  natural  history  of  crocodiles 


w 

Q 

O 
O 
O 


W 

>■ 

H 
H 

bd 


"rfiy/'f/''  //(/"' 


THE   CllOUODILE    BATTERY. 


333 


were  in  this  stage  of  development  wlicn,  one  day,  while 
paddling  up  the  Rohan,  I  saw  what  appeared  to  be  a 
half-burned  log  of  wood  Ijing  on  a  sand-bank.  I  pad- 
dled close  up  to  it.  To  ray  astonishment,  it  proved  to 
be  a  huge  reptile.  The  old  stories  of  dragons,  griffins, 
and  monsters,  seemed  no  longer  fables ;  the  specula- 
tions of  geologists  concerning,  mososaurians,  hi/lwsau- 
rians,  and  2Ji(^^^o^^ui'ians,  were  no  longer  dreams. 
There,  in  all  his  scaly  magnificence,  was  a  real  saurian, 
neai'ly  eighteen  feet  long.  For  a  while  I  stood  gazing 
at  this,  to  me,  new  fellow-citizen  of  the  world,  and 
speculating  on  his  mental  constitution.  The  monster 
was,  or  »,  ^tended  to  be,  asleep.  I  wondered  if  he 
dreamt.  •  ^?hat  his  dreams  or  reveries  might  be 
about ;  poooibiy  he  was  dreaming  of  the  same  old  world 
with  which  I  had  associated  him — possibly  of  the  fish 
who  were  swimming  in  the  waters  below :  or,  he  might 
be  thinking  of  the  men  and  women  he  had  swallowed 
in  the  course  of  his  existence.  There  was  a  snort ; 
perhaps  that  was  occasioned  by  the  bugles  and  heavy 
brass  ornaments  which  had  adorned  the  limbs  of  some 
Hindoo  beauty  he  had  eaten,  and  which  were  lying  heavy 
and  indigestible  on  his  stomach.  But  presently  the  brute 
lay  so  still,  and  seemed  so  tranquil  and  placid  in  his 
sleep,  thnt  it  was  difiicult  to  imagine  him  guilty  of  such 
atrocities.  He  did  not  appear  to  be  disturbed  by  re- 
morse, or  the  twitchings  of  a  guilty  conscience  :  it  may 
have  been  all  a  slander.  I  felt  so  kindly  disposed 
towards  him,  that  I  could  not  imagine  it  possible  that 
if  awake  he  would  feel  disposed  to  eat  me.  Let  us  see  ! 
80  making  a  splash  with  my  paddle,  I  wakened  the 
sleeping  beauty.     He  instantly  started  up,  and  opened, 


i 


334 


PERILOUS    ADVENTURES. 


C 


I3» 


"what  appeared — what  indeed  proved  to  be — an  cnlargec^ 
raan-tvap ;  disclosin;:;  a  red,  slimy  cavern  within, 
fringed  with  great  conical  fangs.  He  closed  it  with  a 
snap  that  made  rac  shudder,  and  then  plunged  into  the 
watci',  his  eyes  glaring  with  hate  and  defiance. 

Some  days  after  I  had  this  new  acquaintance,  I  was 
sitting  at  home  talking  with  my  brother,  when  a  native 
woman  came  crying  and  screaming  to  the  bungalow 
door,  tearing  her  hair  out  in  handfuls ;  she  got  down 
on  the  veranda  floor  and  struck  her  head  against  it,  as 
if  she  really  meant  to  dash  her  brains  out.  A  croAvd 
of  other  women  stood  at  a  short  distance,  crying  and 
lamenting  as  if  they  were  frantic.  What  was  the  mat- 
ter ?  Half  a-dozcn  voices  made  answer  in  a  discordant 
chorus,  that  while  the  poor  woman  was  washing  her 
clothes  b}'  the  river  side,  her  child — an  infant  about  a 
year  old — had  been  seized  and  swallowed  by  a  Mugger. 
Although  convinced  tliat  aid  was  now  impossible,  we 
took  our  guns  and  hastened  to  the  spot  where  the  acci- 
dent happened ;  but  all  waii  still  there,  not  a  wavelet 
disturbed  the  surface  of  the  stream.  A  small  speckled 
kingfisher  was  hovering  overhea(',  as  if  balanced  in  the 
air,  with  its  beak  bent  down  on  its  breast,  watching  the 
fish  beneath  ;  presently  it  darted  like  an  arrow  into  the 
water ;  returned  with  an  empty  bill,  and  then  went  off, 
with  its  clear,  sharp,  twittering  note,  as  if  to  console 
i  self  for  the  failure. 

One  day  I  was  sitting  on  the  high  bank  of  the  river, 
taking  snap  shots  Avith  my  gun  at  the  large  fish  who 
were  every  now  and  then  leaping  out  of  the  water.  A 
fivourlte  spaniel  was  bringing  a  fish  out  of  the  water 
that  I  had  hit.     It  had  swam  already  half  way  across 


Tin-;   CROCUDILE   IJATTEllY. 


335 


tho  stream,  when  the  water  about  six  yards  below  her 
became  suddenly  disturbed ;  and,  to  my  horror,  up 
started  tlie  head  and  open  jaws  of  an  enormous  croco- 
<lile.  The  dog  gave  a  loud  shriek,  and  sprang  half  out 
of  the  water.  The  Mugger  swam  ra^iidly,  and  had 
got  within  a  yard  of  his  intended  victim,  when  I  raised 
my  gun,  and  took  aim  at  the  monster's  head.  A  thud, 
a  splash,  a  bubble,  and  a  dusky  red  streak  in  the  water, 
was  all  that  ensued.  Presently,  however,  Juno's  glossy 
black  head  emerged  from  the  water ;  and,  to  my  de- 
light, began  to  make  rapid  progress  towards  me,  and 
landed  safely.  The  poor  brute,  wet  and  shivering, 
coiled  herself  up  at  my  feet,  with  her  bright  hazel  eyes 
fixed  on  minu  with  ineffable  satisfaction.  Poor  Juno 
subsequently  fell  a  victim  to  the  Muggers,  when  her 
master  was  not  at  hand  to  succour  her.  I  mention 
these  facts,  to  show  that  the  diabolical  revenge  with 
which  I  afterwards  assisted  in  visitine;  these  monsters, 
was  not  groundless.  But  the  strongest  occasion  of  it 
remains  to  bo  told.  li 

Just  as  the  "rains"  were  beginning,  my  neighbour, 
Mr.  Hall,  sent  me  word  thai  he  intended  paying  me 
a  short  visit,  and  requested  me  to  send  a  si/ce  (gvoom), 
with  a  saddle  horse,  to  meet  him  at  a  certain  place  on 
the  road.  The  syce,  Sidhoo,  was  a  smart,  open-chested, 
sinewy-limbed  little  fellow,  a  perfect  model  of  a  biped 
racer.  He  could  run — as  is  the  custom  in  the  East — 
alongside  his  horse  at  a  pace  of  seven  or  eight  m^'es 
an  hour,  for  a  length  of  time  that  would  astonish  the 
best  English  pedestrian  I  ever  heard  of. 

Toward  evening,  Mr.  Hall  rode  up  to  the  bungalow, 
ilripping  with  water,  and  covered  with  mud.     I  saw  at 


I 


I     • 


336 


PERILOUS    ADVENTUllKt?. 


once  that  some  accident  had  happened,  and  hastened 
to  assist  him. 

As  soon  as  he  got  inside,  he  said,  in  answer  to  my 
bantering  about  his  "spill" — 

"I  am  in  no  humour  for  jesting.  Your  syce  ia 
lost!" 

"  Drowned  ?" 

"  No ;  eaten  ! — by  an  enormous  crocodile !" 

He  added  that,  on  arriving  at  a  small  nulla  about 
two  miles  off,  he  found  it  so  much  swollen  by  rain,  that 
he  had  to  swim  his  horse  across  it,  holding  one  end  of 
the  cord  which  Sidhoo,  in  common  with  most  Hindoos, 
wore  coiled  around  his  waist,  and  which  was  used  iu 
pulling  water  from  the  deep  wells  of  the  country.  Hall 
got  safely  across,  and  then  commenced  pulling  Sidhoo 
over  by  means  of  the  cord.  The  black  face,  with  the 
white  teeth  and  turban,  were  bobbing  above  the  muddy 
water,  when  all  at  once  the  groom  threw  up  his  arms, 
gave  a  loud  shriek,  and  sank  below  the  surface.  Mr. 
Hall^  who  had  doubled  the  cord  round  his  hand,  was 
dragged  into  the  water;  where  he  got  a  momentary 
glimpse  of  the  long  seriated  tail  of  a  Mugger,  lashing 
the  water  a  short  way  ahead  of  him.  In  his  efforts  to 
save  himself,  he  lost  his  hold  of  the  string,  and  with 
much  diflliculty  clambered  up  the  slippery  bank  of  the 
nulla.  All  was  now  still.  Only  Sidhoo's  turban  was 
o  be  seen  floating  loosely,  a  considerable  way  down 
the  stream.  Hall  ran  toward  it,  with  a  sort  of  feeling 
which  makes  a  drowning  man  catch  at  a  straw;  and, 
by  means  of  a  stick  he  succeeded  iu  fishing  it  out,  ind 
brought  it  with  him,  as  the  only  remnant  of  Sidhoo  he 
could  give  an  account  of. 


THE   CROCODILE   BAITEUY. 


337 


hastened 
rcr  to  my 
r  syce  ia 


ilia  about 
rain,  that 
ne  end  of 
Hindoos, 
s  used  in 
ry.     Hall 
ig  Sidhoo 
,  with  the 
he  muddy 
his  arms, 
ice.     Mr. 
land,  was 
omentary 
r,  lashing 
efforts  to 
and  with 
nk  of  the 
irban  was 
vay  down 
if  feeling 
aw;  and, 
;  out,  xnd 
Sidhoo  he 


Bad  news  soon  spreads  in  an  Indian  village,  and 
Sidhoo's  fate  was  soon  made  known  to  his  wife ;  and 
in  a  short  time  she  came  crying  and  robbing  to  the 
bungalow,  and  laid  her  youngest  clu  at  our  friend's 
feet.  The  tears  glistened  in  the  poor  fellow's  eyes  aa 
ho  tried  to  soothe  and  console  her ;  which  he  did  by 
promising  to  provide  for  her  and  her  children. 

Although  Hall  was  generally  running  over  with  fun, 
VQ  smoked  our  cheroots  that  evening  ia  silence ;  except 
whan  we  proposed  schemes  for  the  annihilation  of  the 
crocodiles.  A  great  many  plans  were  discussed — but 
none  that  offered  much  chance  of  success.  The  next 
day,  after  breakfast,  I  was  showing  my  visitor  a  gal- 
vanic blasting  apparatus,  lately  received  from  England, 
for  blowing  up  the  snags  (stumps  of  trees)  which  ob- 
struct the  navigation  of  the  river.  I  was  explaining  its 
mode  of  action  to  him,  when  he  suddenly  interrupted 
me —        ■       ■  .  .  ' 

"  The  very  thing  !  Instead  of  snags,  why  not  blow 
up  the  Muggers  ?"  .      <*  . 

I  confessed  that  there  could  be  no  re;  son  why  we 
should  not  blast  the  Muggers.  The  difficulty  was  only 
how  to  manage  it ;  yet  the  more  we  talked  of  it,  the 
more  feasible  did  the  scheme  appear. 

The  brutes  keep  pretty  constant  to  the  same  quarters, 
when  the  fish  are  plentiful ;  and  wo  soon  ascertained 
that  poor  Sidhoo's  murderer  was  well  known  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  nulla.  He  had  on  several  occa- 
sions carried  oflf  goats,  sheep,  pigs,  and  children ;  and 
had  once  attempted  to  drag  a  buffalo,  whom  he  had 
caught  drinking,  into  the  water ;  but,  from  all  accounts, 
came  off  second  best  in  this  rencontre.  .  There  not 

29 


ii 


338 


PEIIILOUS    ADVEXTUKKS. 


C 


being  enough  of  water  in  the  nulla  to  drown  the  buffalo, 
the  Mugger  soon  found  he  had  caught  a  Tartar ;  and 
after  being  well  mauled  by  the  buffalo's  horns,  he  was 
fain  to  scuttle  off  and  hide  himself  among  the  mud. 

I  had  observed,  when  blasting  the  snags,  that  the 
concussion  produced  by  the  discharge  had  the  effect  of 
killing  all  the  fish  within  a  range  of  some  twenty  or 
thirty  yards.  After  every  explosion,  they  were  found* 
in  great  numbers,  floating  on  the  surface  of  the  water 
with  their  bellies  uppermost.  It  now  occurred  to  me, 
that  if  we  could  only  get  within  a  moderate  distance 
of  the  Mugger,  if  we  did  not  blow  him  to  pieces,  we 
would  at  all  events  give  a  shock  that  would  rather 
astonish  him.  An  explosion  of  gunpowder  under  water 
communicates  a  much  severer  shock  to  the  objects  in 
its  immediate  vicinity,  than  the  same  quantity  of  pow- 
der exploded  in  the  air ;  the  greater  density  of  the 
water  enabling  it,  as  it  were,  to  give  a  harder  blow. 

Having  made  our  arrangements,  Mr.  Hall,  my  bro- 
ther, and  myself,  got  into  a  small  canoe,  with  the 
blasting  apparatus  on  board,  and  dropt  down  the 
Btream  to  where  the  nulla  discharged  its  waters  into 
the  Rohan.  He  then  got  out  and  proceeded  to  a 
village  close  by,  where  we  obtained  for  a  few  annas, 
the  carcass  of  a  young  kid.  A  flask  with  about  six 
pounds  of  gunpowder,  and  having  the  conducting  wires 
attached,  was  then  sewn  into  the  kid's  belly.  Two 
strong  ropes  were  also  tied  to  this  bait ;  and,  to  one 
of  these,  the  conducting  wire  was  firmly  bound  with 
small  cord.  The  ropes  were  about  thirty  yards  long, 
and  had  each  attached  to  its  extremities  one  of  the 
inflated  goat-skins  used  by  water-carriers.     Hall,  with 


TllK   OliUCoDlh);    IJAT'IKUV. 


339 


buffalo, 
ar;  and 
,  he  was 
nud. 
that  the 
effect  of 
vcnty  or 
e  found" 
he  water 
d  to  me, 
distance 
iece3,  we 
d  rather 
ler  water 
)bjects  in 
of  pow- 
of  the 
blow, 
my  bro- 
with  the 
own  the 
era  into 
ed  to  a 
w  annas, 
)out  six 
ng  wires 
Two 
to  one 
md  with 
:ds  long, 
of  the 
all,  with 


his  goat-skin  under  his  iinii,  aiul  a  coil  of  loose  rope  in 
his  hand,  took  ono  side  of  tho  nulhi,  'wliilo  my  brother, 
similarly  provided,  took  the  otlier.  Isly  biotlior's  rope 
contained  the  wire ;  so  I  walked  beside  iiim,  -while  two 
coolies,  with  the  battery  ready  charijed,  and  slung  to 
a  pole  whicli  rested  on  their  shoulders,  accompanied 
me.  A  small  float  was  also  attaehed  bv  a  striu''-  to  the 
kid,  so  as  to  indicate  it.s  po.-ition. 

These   arrangements    bchig    made,    we    commenced 
walking  up  tlie  nulhi,  dragging  the  carcass  of  the  kid 
in  the  stream,  and  moving  it  across,  from  side  to  side, 
so  as  to  leave  no  part  of  the  bed  untvitHl ;  and,  as  the 
nulla  was  only  about  twelve  yai-ds  wide,  v.c  felt  pretty 
confident  that,   if  the   rlu;.:ger   were   in   it,  we   could 
scarcely  fail  of  coming  in  contact  v,it!i  ]iiin.     "We  had 
proceeded  only  about  a   '^uaitcr  of  ii,  mile,  v/lien  the 
float  suddenly  dipt.     M\  brother  and  Hall  threw  the 
loose  coil  of  ropes  they  cnnicd    on   the  water,  along 
with  the  inflated  skins,     'riiese  made  it  soon  evident 
by  their  motion  that  the  ?tlugg(>r  had  seized  the  kid. 
He  was  dashing  across,  in  a  zig-z.ig  direction,  dov.n  the 
stream.     I  ran  after  hiin  ;i.s  fast  a;;  [  could  ;  and  paying 
out  the  cord  from  the  reel,  when  I  found  it  impossible  to 
keep  up  with  him.     On  reaching  a  place  where  the  banks 
were  steeper  than  usual,  he  came  to  a  stand  still.     I  got 
on  the  top  of  the  bank,  and  commenced  hauling  in  the 
rope.     I  did  not,  however,  venture  to  lift  the  skin  out 
of  the  water,  for  fear  of  disturbing  hira,  until  the  coolies 
with  the  battery  had  time  to  come  up.     This  was  a 
very  anxious  time ;  for,  if  the  Mugger  had  shifted  his 
quarters  before  they  came  up,  a  fresh  run  with  him 
would  have  ensued,  with  the  chance  of  his  breaking  the 


uo 


PERILOUS   ADVENT UKES. 


wires  witk  his  teeth.  After  a  while  I  heard  the  coolits 
approaching,  and  my  brother  scolding  them,  and  urging 
them  to  hasten  on.  Just  as  their  heads  appeared 
•above  the  bank,  the  foremost  coolie  tripped  his 
foot  and  fell — I  groaned  with  disappointment — pre- 
sently, my  brother  came  along  with  them,  and  brought 
the  battery  to  my  feet ;  a  good  deal  of  the  acid  had 
been  spilt,  but,  with  the  aid  of  a  bottle  of  fresh  acid 
we  had  brought  along  Avith  us,  wo  soon  got  the  battery 
up  to  the  requisite  power.  Every  thing  being  now  in 
order,  I  commenced  pulling  up  the  rope  with  the  wire. 
I  proceeded  as  cautiously  as  possible  for  fear  of  dis- 
turbing the  Mugger ;  but,  in  spite  of  all  ray  efforts,  the 
inflated  skin,  in  coming  up  the  bank,  dislodged  some 
loose  pieces  of  earth,  and  sent  them  splashing  into  the 
water.  Fortunately,  however,  the  Mugger  had  made 
up  his  mind  to  digest  the  kid  where  he  was.  I  could 
not  help  chuckling  when  I  at  length  got  hold  of  the 
ends  of  the  wires.  While  my  brother  was  fastening 
one  of  them  to  the  battery,  I  got  the  other  ready  for 
completing  the  circuit.  The  Mugger  all  the  while 
lying  still  at  the  botro-n  of  the  nulla  with,  most  likely, 
a  couple  of  fathoms  o'i  water  over  his  head,  unconcious 
of  danger,  and  little  dreaming  that  the  two-legged 
creatures  on  the  bank  had  got  a  nerve  communicating 
with  his  stomach,  through  which  they  were  going  to 
send  a  flash  of  lightning  that  would  shatter  his  scaly 
hulk  to  pieces. 

Every  thing  being  how  ready,  I  made  the  fatal  con- 
tact. Our  succ(\ss  was  complete  !  We  felt  a  shock,  as 
if  something  had  fallen  down  the  bank — a  mound  of 
muddy  water  rose,  with  a  muffled,  rumbling  sound,  and 


■\^^ 


X  couia 
of  the 

sterling 

ady  for 

3  while 

likely, 

oncioua 

-legged 

i 

licating 

oing  to 

s  scaly 

;al  con- 

lock,  as 

und  of 

id,  and 

< 

II 


o 


SIDHOO'S  MUGGER. 


THE   CUOCODILE   BATTERY. 


348 


then  burst  out  too  a  column  of  dark  smoke.  A  splash- 
ing and  bubbling  succeeded,  and  then  a  great  crimson 
patch  floated  on  the  water,  like  a  variegated  carpet 
pattern.  Strange-looking  fragments  of  scaly  skin  wer 
picked  up  by  the  natives  from  the  water's  edge,  aift 
brought  to  us  amidst  a  very  general  rejoicing.  Tdt; 
exploded  Mugger  floated  down  the  stream,  and  the 
current  soon  carried  it  out  of  sight.  We  were  not  at 
all  sorry,  for  it  looked  such  a  horrible  mess  that  Tt» 
felt  no  desire  to  examine  it. 

Our  sense  of  triumphant  satisfaction  was,  hu»\rever, 
sadly  damped  about  a  week  afterward,  when  we  received 
the  mortifying  announcement,  that  Sidhoo's  Mugger 
was  still  alive,  and  on  his  old  beat,  apparently  urui- 
jured.  It  was  evident  that  we  had  blasted  the  wrong 
Mugger !  We  consoled  ourselves  with  the  reflectioa, 
that  if  he  were  not  Sidhoo's  murderer,  it  was  very 
likely  he  was  not  wholly  innocent  of  other  atrocities, 
and  therefore  deserved  his  fata. 

Of  course  it  was  impossible  to  rest  while  Sidhoo's 
Mugger  remained  alive,  so  we  were  not  long  in  prepa- 
ring for  a  second  expedition.  This  time  we  took  the 
precaution  of  not  charging  the  battery  until  we  wcro 
certain  that  the  bait  was  swallowed.  The  acid,  diluted 
to  the  necessary  strength,  was,  therefore,  carried  in 
one  of  those  brown  earthenware  jars  c?ll,'d  gray-beards, 
which  had  come  out  to  us  Cull  of  Gleiilivet  whiskey 
We  commenced  dragging  the  kid  up  the  stream,  as 
before ;  but,  having  walked  more  than  a  mile  without 
getting  a  bite,  we  were  getting  rather  disheartened, 
and  sat  down  to  rest,  struck  a  light,  and  smoked  a 
cheroot.     Hall  laid   down,   having  manufactured  an 


MM 


344 


PEllILOUS   ADVENT UllES. 


c 


% 
0 


impromptu  easy  chair  out  of  his  coil  of  rope,  with  the 
inflated  goat-skin  placed  above  it.  My  brother  was 
not  long  in  imitating  his  example,  and  I  laid  down 
under  the  shade  of  some  reeds,  near  to  the  water's 
^ge.  The  heat  was  oppressive,  and  we  were  discuss- 
ing the  probability  of  getting  a  bite  that  day,  and 
lamenting  that  we  had  not  brought  some  pale  ale  along 
with  us,  when,  all  at  once,  I  got  a  sharp  ^>1'^^'^  on  the 
leg,  while  my  brother  came  spinning  down  the  bank 
like  a  teetotem — a  companion  picture  to  Hall,  who 
was  revolving  down  the  opposite  bank.  The  ropes  and 
skins  went  rushing  down  the  nulla  at  a  tremendous 
pace.  As  soon  as  we  recovered  from  the  laughter  into 
which  wo  were  thrown  by  this  droll  contretemps,  wo 
set  off"  in  pursuit,  guided  by  the  track  which  the  inflated 
skins  made  in  the  water.  On  they  went,  dashing  from 
side  to  side,  as  they  had  done  in  our  first  attempt. 
On  coming  to  a  place  where  the  nulla  made  a  sharp 
turn,  they  stood  still  under  the  high  bank,  on  the  inner 
curve  of  the  bend.  It  unfortunately  happened  that 
the  bank,  near  to  which  the  skins  were  floating,  was 
too  precipitous  for  us  to  get  near  them,  without  start- 
ing the  Mugger  from  his  present  position.  With  much 
labour,  we  detached  some  loose  sods  from  the  top  of 
the  bank,  and  sent  them  with  a  loud  splash  into  the 
water,  directly  over  where  we  imagined  him  to  have 
taken  up  his  quarters.  Tbis  had  the  desired  effect,  for 
the  skins  began  to  move  slowly  down  the  stream, 
as  if  the  Mugger  were  crawling  leisurely  along  the 
bottom. 

TiCaving  my  brother  with  the  coolies  in  charge  of 
the  battery,  I  ran  on  to  where  the  bank  was  more 


THE   CROCODILE  BATTERY. 


845 


and 


that 
;,  was 
start- 
much 
;op  of 
to  the 
have 
set,  for 
tream, 
ig  the 


shelving.  By  good  luck,  the  stream  was  rushing  up,* 
after  its  sudden  sweep,  and  sent  a  strong  current 
against  this  bank.  I  had  not  waited  many  minutes, 
before  the  skins  came  floating  round  the  corner,  to 
where  I  was  standing.  I  seized  the  one  to  which  the 
wire  was  attached,  desiring  my  brother  to  charge  the 
batter}^  and  bring  it  down.  This  he  did  much  sooner 
than  I  could  have  expected ;  for,  as  the  battery  was 
now  empty,  one  coolie  was  able  to  carry  it  on  his  head, 
while  my  brother  took  the  jar  of  acid  in  his  hand.  It 
was  evident  from  the  motion  of  the  other  skin  in  the 
water  that  the  Mugger  was  still  moving — so  no  time 
was  to  be  lost.  I  made  the  connection  with  the  battery 
with  one  of  the  wires ;  in  another  instant  the  circuit 
was  complete,  and  the  Mugger's  doom  sealed. 

There  was  a  momentary  pause — owing,  I  suppose,  to 
some  slight  loss  of  insulation  in  the  wires — then  came 
the  premonitory  shock,  then  the  rumble,  the  smoke, 
and  the  sparks ;  and  a  great  bloated  mass  of  flesh  and 
blood  rose  to  the  surface  of  the  water.  Hall  called  out 
to  us  to  drag  it  ashore,  and  see  whether  we  could  get 
any  trace  of  poor  Sidhoo.  We  tried  by  means  of  a 
bamboo  pole  to  pull  it  to  the  bank,  but  the  glimpse  we 
got  ot  it  as  it  neared  was  so  unutterably  disgusting, 
that  wo  pushed  it  off  again,  and  allowed  it  to  float  away 
down  with  the  current. 

That  this  was  Sidhoo's  Mugger,  there  could  be 
no  doubt ;  for  he  was  never  seen  or  heard  of  in  the 
neighbourhood  again.  '' 


C 

pi, 


0^ 


SHIPWRECK  AT  KING'S  ISLAND. 

?^^N  the  20th  of  April,  1849, 
the  ship  Cataraque,  Cap- 
tain C.  W.  Findlay,  sailed 
from  Liverpoool,  having 
on  board  360  emigrants, 
and  a  crew,  including  two 
doctors,  of  forty-six  souls. 
The  emigrants  were  chief- 
ly from  different  parts  of 
England.  On  the  3d  of 
August,  about  7  o'clock  in  the  evening,  in  consequence 
of  a  tremendous  gale,  the  ship  was  hove  to,  and  con- 
tinued lying  so  until  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  of  the 
next  day,  when  she  struck  on  a  reef  on  the  west  coast 
of  King's  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  Bass'  Straits. 

Immcdiatclv  after  the  vessel  struck,  it  was  ascer- 
tained  that  she  had  four  feet  of  water  in  the  hold.  A 
fearful  scene  of  confusion  ensued.  The  passengers 
attempted  to  rush  upon  deck,  and  many  succeeded, 
until  the  heaving  of  the  vessel  knocked  down  the  lad- 
ders, when  the  shrieks  of  those  below,  who  anticipated 
destruction,  were  awful. 

The  crew  was  employed  in  helping  up  the  passen- 
gers, and  three  hundred  were  on  deck  when  the  vessel 
began  breaking  up.  The  day  dawned.  The  stern  of 
the  vessel  was  found  to  be  driven  in,  and  many  bodies 


r/ 

a. 

c 


ft 

r. 

> 

> 
> 

c 

ft 


m\,  1849, 
que,  Cap- 
lay,  sailed 
dI,  having 
(migrants, 
uding  two 
r-six  souls, 
ivere  chief- 
it  parts  of 
the  3d  of 
nsequenee 
and  con- 
3on  of  the 
west  coast 
raits. 

vas  asccr- 
hold.  A 
passengers 
succeeded, 
n  the  lad- 
nticipated 

he  passen- 
the  vessel 
e  stern  of 
my  bodies 


%» 


c 

c 


ligh 

=■ 

peri 

"  " '  -if  "*  ■  . 

wer 
nea 

•;  %..  -  ' 

-   I    r    . 

-      .           4^          . 

.J         ' 

' 

SHIPWRECK  AT   KING  S   ISLAND. 


349 


were  seen  floating  round  the  ship.  About  two  hundred 
of  the  passengers  and  crew  held  on  to  the  vessel,  al- 
though the  sea  was  breaking  over  her,  and  every  wave 
washed  some  of  them  to  a  watery  grave.  Things  con- 
tinued in  this  condition  until  four  in  the  afternoon, 
when  the  vessel  parted  amidships,  and  between  eighty 
and  a  hundred  persons  were  thrown  into  the  waves. 
Thus  the  insatiable  sea  swaUowed  its  prey  piecemeal. 
About  five  the  wreck  parted  by  the  fore-rigging,  and  so 
many  were  thrown  into  the  ocean,  that  only  seventy 
persons  were  left  in  the  forecastle,  they  being  lashed  to 
the  wreck.  Even  these  were  gradually  diminished  in 
number,  some  giving  out  from  exhaustion,  and  others 
anticipating  fate  by  drowning  themselves. 

When  the  next  day  dawned,  but  thirty  persons  were 
loft  alive,  and  these  were  almost  exhausted.  The  sea 
was  making  a  clean  breach  into  the  forecastle,  the 
deck  of  which  was  rapidly  breaking  up.  Parents  and 
children,  husbands,  and  wives,  were  seen  floating  round 
the  vessel,  locked  in  the  last  embrace.  Soon  after  day- 
light the  vessel  was  entirely  broken  up,  and  out  of  423 
persons  who  had  been  on  board  the  vessel,  only  nine 
were  saved  by  being  washed  on  shore,  and  these  were 
nearly  exhausted. 


O 


ADVENTURE  AND  EXPLOIT   OF  TWO 
GUIDES. 

HRISTOPHER       CAR- 

SON  and  Alexander  Go- 
dey  accompanied  Colonel 
Fremont  in  his  exploring 
expedition,  across  the 
plains  and  mountains  to 
the  Pacific,  acting  as 
guides  and  hunters.  They 
were  distinguished  for 
their  daring,  skill,  and 
hardihood,  and  on  every  occasion  displayed  their  in- 
domitahle  character.  , 

One  of  their  exploits  is  thus  recorded  by  Col.  Fre- 
mont, in  Lis  very  interesting  "Narrative: — " 

In  the  afternoon  we  were  surprised  by  the  sudden 
appearance  '.u  the  camp  of  two  Mexicans — a  man  and 
a  boy.  The  name  of  the  man  was  Andreas  Fuentcs ; 
and  that  of  tho  boy  (a  handsome  lad,  11  years  old,) 
Pablo  Hernandez.  They  belonged  to  a  party  consist- 
ing of  six  persons,  the  remaining  four  being  the  wife 
of  Fucntes,  and  the  father  and  mother  of  Pablo,  and 
Santiago  Giacomo,  a  resident  of  New  jNIoxico.  With  a 
cavalcade  of  about  thirty  horses,  they  had  come  out 
from  Puebla  do  los  Angeles,  near  the  coast,  under  the 
guidance  of  Giacome,  in  advance  of  the  great  caravan, 
(350) 


TWO 


CAR- 

nder  Go- 
;I  Colonel 
exploring 
•OSS  the 
ntains  to 
ctiiig  as 
ii-s.  They 
shed  for 
kill,  and 
their  in- 

Col.  Frc- 

e  sudden 
man  and 
Fuentcs  ; 
}ars  old,) 
Y  consist- 

the  wife 

ablo,  and 

AVith  a 

come  out 

mder  the 

caravan, 


I 


KIT  CARSON. 


n 


O 


Jv* 


i 

^ 

c 

t 

a 

s 

c 

S 

c 

b 

w 

b< 

al 

'■^  -    ■  ^t-r     ■ 

Ii 

'  '* 

It 

of 

Ir 

ac 

ar 

m 

of 

f* 

se 

;' 

su 

3f 

th 

ini 

ac 

su 

shi 

for 

' 

wa 

i 

W] 

ADVENTURE  AND   EXPLOIT  OF  TWO  GUIDES.     353 


in  order  to  travel  more  at  leisure  and  obtain  better 
grass.  Having  advanced  as  far  into  the  desert  as  was 
considw-.ed  consistent  with  their  safety,  they  halted  at 
the  ArchUette,  one  of  the  customary  camping  grounds, 
about  80  miles  from  our  encamp^nent,  where  there  is  a 
spring  of  good  water,  with  sufficient  grass;  and  con- 
cluded to  await  there  the  arrival  of  the  great  Caravan. 
Several  Indians  were  soon  discovered  lurking  about  the 
camp,  who,  in  a  day  or  two  after,  came  in,  and,  after 
behaving  in  a  very  friendly  manner,  took  their  leave, 
without  awakening  any  suspicions.  Their  deportment 
begat  a  security  which  proved  fatal.  In  a  few  days 
afterwards,  suddenly  a  party  of  about  one  hundred 
Indians  appeared  in  sight,  advancing  towards  the  camp. 
It  was  too  late,  or  they  seemed  not  to  have  presence 
of  mind  to  take  proper  measures  of  safety ;  and  the 
Indians  charged  down  into  their  camp,  shouting  as  they 
advanced,  and  discharging  flights  of  arrows.  Pablo 
and  Fuentes  were  on  horse  guard  at  the  time,  and 
mounted  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country.  One 
of  tho  principal  objects  of  the  Indians  was  to  get  pos- 
session of  the  horses,  and  part  of  them  immediately 
surrounded  the  band  ;  but,  in  obedience  to  the  shouts 
dF  Giacome,  Fuentes  drove  the  animals  over  and  through 
the  assailants,  in  spite  of  their  arrows ;  and,  abandon- 
ing the  rest  to  their  fate,  carried  them  off  at  speed 
across  the  plain.  Knowing  that  they  would  be  pur- 
sued by  the  Indians,  without  making  any  halt  except  to 
shift  their  saddles  to  other  horses,  they  drove  them  on 
for  about  sixty  miles,  and  this  morning  left  them  at  a 
watering  place  on  the  trail  called  Agua  de  Tomaso. 
Without  giving  themselves  any  time  for  rest,  they  hur- 

30* 


354 


PERILOUS    ADVKNTUUKS. 


O 


ricd  on,  hoping  to  meet  tlic  Spanish  Caravan,  when  they 
discovered  my  camp.  I  received  them  kindly,  taking 
them  into  my  OAvn  mcs3,  and  j)romiried  them  such  aid 
as  circumstances  might  put  it  in  my  power  to  give. 

April  2.5. — "\Vc  loft  the  river  abruptly,  and,  turning 
to  the  north,  regained  in  a  fcAV  miles  the  main  trail 
(which  had  left  the  river  sooner  than  ourselves,)  and 
continued  our  way  across  a  lower  ridge  of  the  moun- 
tain, through  a  miserable  tract  of  sand  and  gravel. 
We  crossed  at  intervals  the  broad  beds  of  dry  gullies, 
where  in  the  season  of  rains  and  melting  snows  there 
would  be  brooks  or  rivulets ;  and  at  one  of  these  where 
there  was  no  indication  of  water,  were  several  freshly- 
dug  holes,  in  which  there  was  water  at  the  depth  of 
two  feet.  These  holes  had  been  dug  by  the  wolves, 
whose  keen  sense  of  smell  had  scented  the  water  under 
the  dry  sand.  They  were  nice  little  wells,  narrow,  and 
dug  straight  down,  and  we  got  pleasant  water  out  of 
them. 

Beyond  the  first  ridge,  our  road  bore  a  little  to  the 
cast  of  north,  towards  a  gap  in  a  higher  line  of  moun- 
tains ;  and,  after  travelling  about  twenty-five  miles,  we 
arrived  at  the  Agua  de  Tomaso — the  spring  where  the 
horses  had  been  left ;  but,  as  we  expected,  they  were 
gone.  A  brief  examination  of  the  ground  convinced 
us  that  they  had  been  driven  off  by  the  Indians.  Car- 
on  and  Godey  volunteered  with  the  Mexican  to  pursue 
them ;  and,  well-mounted,  the  three  set  off  on  the  trail. 
At  this  stopping  place  there  were  a  few  bushes  and 
very  little  grass.  Its  water  was  a  pool ;  but  near  by 
was  a  spring,  which  had  been  dug  out  by  Indians  or 


ADVENTURE   AND   EXPLOIT   OF  TWO   GUIDES.     355 


hen  they 
/•,  taking 
sucli  aid 

rrive. 

,  turning 
lain  trail 
vcs,)  and 
lie  moun- 
I   gravel. 
y  gullies, 
oNvs  there 
cse  where 
1  frcshly- 
dcpth  of 
le  wolves, 
iter  under 
rroAV,  and 
ter  out  of 

tile  to  the 
of  moun- 
niilcs,  Ave 
wliere  tlic 
tlicy  Avevo 
convinced 
ns.     Car- 
lo pursue 
the  trail, 
ushes  and 
It  near  by 
Indians  or 


travellers.  Its  Avater  Avas  cool — a  great  refreshment  to 
us  under  a  burning  sun. 

In  the  evening  Fucntes  returned,  his  horse  having 
failed ;  but  Carson  and  Godey  had  continued  the 
pursuit. 

In  the  affornoon  of  the  next  day,  a  Avar-Avhoop  Avaa 
heard,  such  as  Indians  make  Avhen  returning  fi;om  a 
victorious  enterprise ;  and  S(^on  Carson  and  Godey 
appeared,  driving  before  th.m  a  band  of  horses,  recog- 
nised by  Fucntes  to  be  part  of  those  they  had  lost. 
Tavo  bloody  scalps,  dangling  from  the  end  of  Godey's 
gun,  announced  that  they  had  overtaken  the  Indians 
as  Avell  as  the  horses.  They  informed  us,  that  after 
Fuentos  left  them,  from  the  failure  of  his  horse,  they 
continued  the  puisnit  alone,  and  towards  nightfall 
entered  the  motintains,  into  whicli  the  trail  led.  After 
sunset  the  moon  iravo  lii!;ht,  and  thev  followed  the  trail 
by  moonshine  until  late  in  the  night,  Avhen  it  entered  a 
narrow  defile,  Jind  was  difficult  to  follo-w.  Afraid  of 
losing  it  in  the  darkness  of  the  defile,  they  tied  up  their 
horses,  struck  nc  fire,  and  lay  doAvn  to  sleep  in  silence 
and  in  darkness.  Here  they  lay  from  midnight  till 
morning.  At  dayli_ii;ht  they  resumed  the  pursuit,  and 
about  sunrise  discoveved  the  horses ;  and,  immediately 
dismounting  and  tying  up  their  OAvn,  they  ci'ei)t  cau- 
tiously tn  a  visiu''  m'.nind  which  intervened,  from  the 
crest  of  which  they  perceived  the  encampment  of  four 
lodges  close  by.  They  proceeded  quietly,  and  had  got 
Avithin  thirty  or  forty  yards  of  their  object,  Avhen  a 
movement  among  the  horses  discovered  them  to  the 
Indians ;  giving  the  Avar-shout  they  instantly  charged 


356 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


I,"  'I 


into  the  camp,  regardless  of  the  number  which  the  four 
lodges  would  imply. 

The  Indians  received  them  with  a  flight  of  arrows 
shot  from  their  long  bows,  one  of  which  passed  through 
Godey's  shirt  collar,  barely  missing  the  neck ;  our  men 
fired  their  rifles  upon  a  steady  aim,  and  rushed  in. 
Two  Indians  were  stretched  on  the  ground,  fatally 
pierced  with  bullets ;  the  rest  fled,  except  a  lad  that 
was  captured.  The  scalps  of  the  fallen  were  instantly 
stripped  off";  but  in  the  process,  one  of  them,  who  had 
two  balls  through  his  body,  sprung  to  his  feet,  the  blood 
streaming  from  his  skinned  head,  anc'  tered  a  hide- 
ous howl.  An  old  squaw,  possibly  his  mothe'*  stopped 
and  looked  back  from  the  mountain  side  she  was  climb- 
ing, threatening  and  lamenting.  The  frightful  spec- 
tacle appalled  the  stout  hearts  of  our  men  ;  but  they  did 
what  humanity  required,  and  quickly  terminated  the 
agonies  of  the  gory  savage.  They  were  now  masters 
of  the  camp,  which  was  a  pret'y  little  recess  in  the 
mountain,  with  a  fine  spring,  and  apparently  safe  from 
all  invasion. 

Great  preparations  had  been  made  to  feast  a  large 
party,  for  it  was  a  very  proper  place  for  a  rendezvous, 
and  for  the  celebration  of  such  orgies  as  robbers  of  the 
desert  would  delight  in.  Several  of  the  best  horses 
liiid  l)cen  killed,  skinned,  and  cut  up;  for  the  Indians 
iving  ill  mountains,  and  only  coming  in  the  plains  to 
rol)  and  murder  make  no  other  use  of  horses  than  to 
cjit  tlum.  Large  earthen  vessels  were  on  the  fire, 
boiling  and  stewing  the  horse  beef;  and  several  baskets, 
containing  fifty  or  sixty  pairs  of  moccasins,  indicated 
the  presence  or  expectation  of  a  considerable  party. 


-J  .• 


i 


ADVENTURE   AND   EXPLOIT   OF  TWO   GUIDES.     357 


the  /owr 

f  arrovrs 
through 
oar  men 
ished  in. 
I,  fatally 
lad  that  , 
instantly 
,  who  had 
the  hlood 
d  a  hide- 
r.  stopped 
(vas  climb- 
itful  spec- 
It  they  did 
nated  the 
w  masters 
jss  in  the 
safe  from 

st  a  large 
endezvous, 
)ers  of  the 
est  horses 
he  Indians 

plains  to 
es  than  to 

the  fire, 
al  baskets, 

indicated 
ble  party. 


They  released  the  boy,  who  had  given  strong  ovidenco 
of  the  stoicism,  or  something  else  of  the  savage  charac- 
ter, in  commencing  his  breakfast  upon  a  horse's  head 
as  soon  as  he  found  he  was  not  to  be  killed,  but  only 
tied  as  a  prisoner.  Their  object  accomplished,  our  men 
gathered  up  all  the  surviving  horses,  fifteen  in  number, 
returned  upon  their  trail,  and  rejoined  us  at  ourxamp 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day.  They  had  rode 
about  100  miles  in  the  pursuit  and  return,  and  all  in 
thirty  hours.  The  time,  place,  object,  and  numbers 
considered,  this  expedition  of  Carson  and  Godcy  may 
be  considered  among  the  boldest  and  most  disinterested 
which  the  annals  of  western  adventure,  so  full  of  daring 
deeds,  can  present.  Two  men,  in  a  savage  desert,  pur- 
sue day  and  night  an  unknown  body  of  Indians  into 
the  defiles  of  an  unknown  mountain — attack  them  on 
sight,  without  counting  numbers — and  defeat  them  in 
an  instant — and.  for  what  ?  To  punish  the  robbers  of 
the  desert,  and  to  avenge,  the  wrongs  of  Mexicans 
whom  they  did  not  know.  I  repeat:  it  was  Carson 
and  Godey  who  did  this — the  former  an  A7)2erican, 
born  in  the  Boonslick  county  of  Missouri,  the  latter  a 
Frenchman,  born  in  St.  Louis — and  both  trained  to 
Vfestern  enterprise  from  early  life. 


I 


DESTRUCTION  OF  AN  EAST  INDIAMAN 
,  BY  FIRE.        ...    . 


0 


HAT  more  terrible  can  be  imagined 
than  a  ship  laden  with  human  beings 
on  fire  while  at  sea  ?  The  alterna- 
tive is  to  be  burned  or  drowned.  On 
every  ^.ide  death  stares  the  unfortu- 
nate wretches  in  the  face,  and  even 
their  earnest  prayers  to  heaven  avail 
them  not.  ,  ,    ,  ., ,,  ■  « 

The  burning  of  the  large  East  Indiaman,  the  Kent, 
in  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  although  not  so  great  a  disaster 
as  many  otliors  in  the  annals  of  the  ocean,  had  many 
fearful  features.  The  ship  had  641  persons  on  board 
at  the  time  of  the  accident.  The  fire  was  first  disco- 
vered hi  the  hold  during  a  storm.  An  officer  on  duty 
finding  that  a  spirit  cask  had  broken  loose,  was  trying 
to  secure  it,  when  a  lurch  of  the  ship  caused  him  to 
drop  his  lantern,  and  in  his  eagerness  to  save  it,  he  let 
go  the  cask,  which  suddenly  stove  in,  and  the  spirits 
communicating  with  the  flame,  the  whole  place  was 
soon  in  a  blazo.  Hopes  of  subduing  the  fire  were  at 
first  entertained,  but  heavy  volumes  of  smoke  and  a 
pitchy  smell  told  that  it  had  reached  the  cable-room. 

The  captain  then  ordered  the  decks  to  be  scuttled, 
to  admit  water.     This  was  done,  several  seamen  being 


MAN 


nagined 
1  beings 
alterna- 
led.  On 
unfoitn- 
,nd  even 
^en  avail 

le  Kent, 
disaster 
id  many 
n  board 
st  disco- 
on  duty 
lS  trying 
1  him  to 
t,  he  let 
e  spirits 
[aoe  Avas 
•were  at 
e  and  a 
-room, 
scuttled, 
en  being 


c 

0 


■;<',  'Vr'' 


r*'.-.. 


4 


DESTRUCTION  OF  AN  EAST  INDIAMAN  HY  FIRE.    361 


suffocated  by  the  smoke  while  executing  the  order.  But 
now  danger  appeared  in  another  shape.  The  sea 
rushed  in  so  furiously  that  the  ship  was  becoming 
water-logged,  and  fears  were  entertained  that  she  would 
go  down.  Between  six  and  seven  hundred  human 
beings  were  on  deck  by  this  time.  Many  were  on 
their  knees,  praying  for  the  aid  of  heaven.  Some 
shrieked ;  others  fainted ;  while  some  old,  stout-hearted 
sailors  seated  themselves  directly  over  the  powder 
magazine,  expecting  an  explosion  every  moment,  and 
thinking  thus  to  put  a  speedier  end  to  their  torture. 
In  this  time  of  general  despair,  the  fourth  mate  thought 
to  send  to  the  foremast,  hoping  that  a  friendly  sail 
might  be  in  sight.  The  man  at  the  fore  top  looked 
round  him.  It  was  a  moment  of  intense  anxiety.  The 
fire  was  rapidly  gaining  upon  the  ship,  and  the  sea  was 
dashing  and  foaming  on  every  side.  Suddenly  the 
sailor  shouted,  "  A  sail,  on  the  lee-bow  !"  Three  loud 
cheers  burst  from  those  on  the  deck,  for  they  now  con- 
sidered themselves  safe. 

Signals  of  distress  were  hoisted,  and  the  minute  guns 
were  fired  continuously.  The  vessel  in  sight  proved  to 
bo  a  brig.  For  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  the  crew 
of  the  Kent  doubted  whether  their  signals  were  per- 
ceived ;  but  after  a  period  of  dreadful  suspense,  they 
saw  the  British  colours  hoisted,  and  the  brig  making 
towards  them.  The  crew  of  the  Kent  then  got  the 
boats  ready.  The  first  was  filled  with  women-passen- 
gers and  officers'  wives — and  was  lowered  into  a  sea  so 
tempestuous  as  to  leave  small  hope  of  their  reaching 
the  brig ;  but  they  succeeded  in  getting  safely  aboard. 
After  the  first   trip  it  was  found  impossible  for  the 

in 


362 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


boats  to  come  alongside  of  the  Kent,  and  tlie  Avomen 
and  children  suffered  dreadfully  in  being  lowered  over 
the  stern  into  them  by  means  of  ropes.  At  length 
when  all  had  been  removed  from  the  burning  vessel, 
but  a  few,  who  were  so  overcome  by  fear  as  to  refuse 
to  make  the  attempt  to  reach  the  brig,  the  captain 
(][uitted  his  ill-fated  vessel.  The  flames  which  had 
spread  along  her  upper  deck,  now  mounted  rapidly  to 
the  masts  and  rigging,  lighting  up  the  heavens  to  a 
great  distance.  One  by  one  her  stately  masts  fell  over 
her  sides.  By  half-past  one  in  the  mornin^^,  the  fire 
reached  the  powder  magazine ;  the  expected  explosion 
occurred,  and  the  burning  fragments  of  the  vessel  were 
thrown  high  in  the  air,  and  strewed  in  every  (lir(!Ction. 
The  brig  Avas  named  the  Cambria,  was  commanded 
by  Captain  Cook,  and  was  bound  to  Vera  Cruz.  She 
made  all  speed  for  the  nearest  port,  whicli  was  Ports- 
mouth, and  arrived  there  safely  on  the  3d  of  March, 
1825.  Fourteen  of  the  poor  creatures  left  on  the  Kent, 
were  rescued  by  another  ship,  the  Caroline,  on  her 
passage  from  Alexandria  to  Liverpool.  Thus  were 
hundreds  of  people  saved  from  a  dreadful  death  by  the 
providential  approach  of  a  friendly  vessel.  The  energy 
and  devotion  of  the  captain  of  the  Kent  cannot  receive 
too  much  praise. 


women 
eel  over 
length 
vessel, 
)  refuse 
captaii) 
ich    had 
pidly  to 
51  IS  to  a 
fell  over 
tlic  firo 
!X  plosion 
5?el  were 
lirection. 
fi  mandcd 
iz.     She 
IS  Ports- 
March, 
he  Kent, 
,  on   her 
lus    ^verc 
ih  by  the 
:e  energy 
t  receive 


TvnoinsE. 


ADVENTURES   IN  THE   TYROL. 

EALTIIY  Enp;lishmcn  and 
Frenchmen  Avho  have  lei- 
snrc,  frequently  visit  th 
wild  region  of  the  Tyrol, 
and  engage  in  its  luudy 
and  invigorating  sports. 
Of  those,  chamois  hunting 
is  the  most  common  as  well  as  the  most  famous.     This 


^ 


S64 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


0 


is  attended  with  the  greatest  dangers,  but  these  are  its 
charms  in  the  estimation  of  the  daring  and  resolute. 
A  recent  English  tourist  has  given  to  the  public  a 
thrilling  account  of  a  hunting  adventure  in  which  he 
Was  the  "/hief  actor.     We  quote  : — 

We  were  advancing  along  the  base  of  the  lowest  tier 
of  cliff,  which  had  a  sort  of  step  of  snow  running  along  it 
about  half-way  up  for  some  half-a-milc,  bounded  at  one 
end  by  an  immense  mass  of  screes  and  precipices,  and 
at  the  other  by  a  sudden  turn  of  the  rock,  when  Joseph 
suddenly  dashing  off  his  hat  and  throwing  himself  pros- 
trate behind  a  stone,  dragged  me  down  beside  him  witk 
a  vicelike  grasp,  that  left  its  mark  on  my  arm  for  many 
a  day  after.  Utterly  taken  aback  at  the  suddenness 
of  my  prostration,  I  lay  beside  him,  wondering  at  the 
change  that  had  come  over  his  face ;  he  was  as  white 
as  marble,  his  moustache  worked  with  intense  excite- 
ment, and  his  eyeballs  seemed  starting  from  their  sock- 
ets as  he  glared  at  the  cliff.  Following  his  line  of 
sight,  I  glanced  upwards,  and  my  eye  was  instantly 
arrested  by  something — it  moved — again — and  again ! 
With  shaking  hand  I  directed  the  telescope  to  the 
point,  and  there,  at  the  end  of  it,  hopping  fearlessly 
on  the  shivered  mountain  side,  scratching  its  ear  with 
its  hind  foot,  and  nibbling  daintily  the  scattered  bits  of 
gemsenkraut  that  sprung  up  between  the  stones,  stood 
fearless  and  free — a  chamois ! 

After  watching  him  with  intense  interest  for  some 
moments,  we  drew  back,  scarcely  daring  to  breathe, 
and,  sheltering  ourselves  behind  a  large  stone,  held  a 
council  of  war.  It  was  evidently  impossible  to  ap- 
proach him  from  where  we  were ;  we  could  not  have 


ADVENTURES  IN  THE  TYRuL. 


365 


moved  ten  steps  towards  him  without  the  certainty  of 
heing  discovered;  our  only  chance  was  to  get  above 
him,  and  so  cut  him  off  from  the  higher  ranges. 
Crawling  backwards,  we  managed  to  place  a  low  range 
of  rock  between  ourselves  and  the  cliifs,  and  then 
making  a  wide  sweep,  we  reached  their  base  at  some  dis- 
tance from  where  the  chamois  was  feeding.     .,      .  ' 

After  examining  the  precipice  for  some  time,  we 
found  that  the  only  mode  of  access  to  its  summit,  here 
some  three  or  four  hundred  feet  above  us,  was  by  a  sort 
of  ravine,  what  would  be  called  in  the  Swiss  Alps  a 
cheminee,  a  species  of  fracture  in  the  strata,  the  bro- 
ken edges  of  which  would  give  us  some  foot  and  hand 
hold :  at  its  upper  termination  we  could  see  the  end  of 
a  small  glacier,  slightly  overhanging  the  cliff,  from 
which  a  small  stream  leapt  from  ledge  to  ledge,  only 
alive  in  the  last  hour  or  two  of  sun-warmth,  giving 
promises,  which  certainly  were  faithfully  fulfilled,  of 
additional  slipperiness  and  discomfort.  But  we  had  no 
choice ;  we  had  already  spent  nearly  an  hour  iu  our 
cautious  circuit.  Our  scramble,  wherever  it  took  place, 
would  cost  us  nearly  another  before  we  got  above  our 
expected  prey,  and  if  we  hesitated  much  longer,  he 
might  take  a  fancy  to  maroh  off  altogether  in  search 
of  the  rest  of  the  herd.  So  up  we  went,  dragging 
ourselves  and  each  other  up  the  wet  slippery  rocks, 
getting  a  shivering  "  swish"  of  ice-cold  water  in  our 
faces  QVQxy  now  and  then,  till  we  got  about  half-way 
up,  when,  just  as  we  were  resting  for  a  moment  to 
take  breath,  we  heard  a  tremendous  roar,  followed  by 
a  splintering  crash  just  above  our  heads,  and  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  the  fragments,  of  some  half-a-ton.  of 

81* 


866 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUllES. 


0 


ice,  which  liad  fallen  from  the  glacier  above,  fly  out 
from  the  shelf  of  rock  under  which  we  were  resting, 
and  spin  down  the  rugged  path  we  had  just  ascended. 

Thinking  that  this  was  quite  near  enough  to  be 
pleasant,  and  "calculating"  that  by  every  doctrine  of 
vliances  the  same  thing  would  not  happen  twice  in  the 
jiauie  half  hour,  v.e  scrambled  up  as  fast  as  we  could 
before  the  next  ins^talment  became  due,  and  at  last 
reached  safely  the  top  of  the  precipice. 

We  certainly  had  not  much  to  boast  of  as  far  as 
walking  went,  when  wo  got  there,  for  the  snow  and 
rocks  were  tumbled  about  in  a  very  wild  manner.  If 
we  slipped  oft"  a  rock,  we,  tumbled  waist-deep  into 
the  soft,  melting  snow-drifts,  and  Avhcn  we  tumbled  on 
the  snow,  there  way  always  some  lurking  rock  ready  to 
remind  us  of  his  presence  by  a  hearty  thump ;  how- 
ever, as  we  were  fairly  above  the  chamois,  our  excite- 
ment carried  us  on.  I  do  not  think  that  Joseph  swore 
once ;  w^e  found  afterwards  indeed,  to  our  cost,  that  in 
one  of  his  involuntary  summersets,  he  had  broken  the 
bottle,  and  narrowly  escaped  being  bayonetted  by  the 
fragments ;  however,  we  did  not  know  it  then,  and  so 
scrambled  on  in  contented  ignorance,  until  we  reached 
the  spot  on  the  clifts  to  our  right,  which  we  had  marked 
as  being  above  our  prey.  Here,  however,  we  found 
that  it  was  impossible  to  got  near  enough  to  thr  "Ige 
to  look  over,  as  tbc  fresh-fallen  snow  threatened  to 
part  company  from  the  rock,  and  carry  us  with  it,  on 
the  slightest  indiscretion  on  our  part.  Crouching  down 
in  the  snow,  Ave  listenci  for  some  hint  of  our  friend's 
whereabouts,  and  hud  not  waited  more  than  a  minute 
when  the  faint  clatter  of  a  stoisc  far  below  convinced 


/^.^■!..\ 


\:> 


TlIK   TYKOL. 


367 


fly  out 
resting, 
ended. 
1  to  be 
trine  of 
:e  in  the 
ve  could 

at  last 

3  far  as 
low  and 
iier.     If 
cop  into 
nbled  on 
ready  to 
p ;  how- 
i'  excite- 
ph  swore 
,  that  in 
oken  the 
d  by  the 
1,  and  so 
reached 
niarlccd 
ve  found 
thr     'go 
tened  to 
th  it,  on 
ing  down 
friend's 
I  minute 
onvinced 


ClIAMOlti   IIU.NTI.NU. 


US  that  lie  was  on  the  move :  keeping  low,  we  wallowed 
all  ng  till  we  came  to  where  the  crest  of  the  cliff,  show 
ing  a  little  above  the  snow,  gave  us  a  tolerable  shelter ; 
carefully  crawling  to  the  edge,  wc  peeped  over,  and 
saw,  as  wc  expected,  that  the  gems  had  shifted  his 
quarters,  and  as  luck  would  have  it,  was  standing  on 
the  snow-bed  half  way  up  the  clitF,  immediately  below 
us.  '         .  , 

Trembling,  partly  with  excitement,  and  partly  from 
the  under-waistcoat  of  half-melted  snow  we  had  uncon- 
sciously assumed  in  our  serpentine  wrigglings,  we  lay 
and  watched  the  graceful  animal  below  us.  lie  evi- 
dently had  a  presentiment  that  there  was  something  "  n( 
canny"  about  the  mountain-side ;  some  eddy  had  per- 
haps reached  his  delicate  nostrils,  laden  Avith  the  taint  of 
an  intruder.  With  his  head  high  in  the  air,  and  his  ears 
pointed  forwards,  he  stood  examining — as  wiser  brutes 
than  he  sometimes  do — every  point  of  the  compass  but 


308 


PKUILOUS    ADVKXTURES. 


0 


the  right.  One  foot  was  advanced;  ■  .lo  mjinent  m 
and  he  would  have  goii*';  when  crack !  close  to  my  ear 
just  ah  I  wa8  screwing  up  my  nerves  tor  a  long  shot, 
went  Joseph's  heavy  rifle.  With  u  sinking  heart,  I 
saw  the  brute  take  a  tremendous  bound,  all  four  hoofs 
together,  arfd  then,  like  a  rifle  ball,  glancing  over  the 
bosom  of  a  calm  lake,  bound  after  bound  carried  him 
away  and  away  over  the  snow  field,  and  round  the 
corner  to  our  right,  before  I  had  recovered  my  senses 
sufficiently  to  take  a  desperate  snap  at  him. 

What  we  said,  or  felt,  or  how  we  got  over  the  face  of 
that  cliff*,  I  know  not.  A  dim  recollection  of  falling 
stones  and  dust  showering  round  us — pieces  of  treach- 
erous rock  giving  way  in  our  hands  and  under  our  feet, 
bruising  slides,  and  one  desperate  jump  over  the  chasm 
between  the  cliff"  and  the  snow — and  there  we  were 
both,  standing  pale  and  breathless,  straining  our  eyes 
for  some  scarcely  expected  trace  of  blood  to  give  us 
hope. 

Not  a  drop  tinged  the  unsullied  snow  at  the  place 
where  he  had  made  his  first  mad  bound,  nor  at  the 
second,  nor  at  the  third ;  but  a  few  paces  further  on, 
one  ruby-tinged  hole  showed  where  the  hot  blood  had 
sunk  through  the  melting  snow. 

Too  excited  to  feel  any  uprising  of  envy,  hatred,  or 
malice  against  my  more  fortunate  companion,  I  raced 
along  the  white  incline,  leaving  him  behind  reloading 
his  rifle — which  was  always  a  sort  of  solemn  rite  with 
him — and  following,  without  difficulty,  the  deep  inden- 
tations of  the  animal's  hoofs,  I  came  to  where  the  cliffs 
receded  into  a  sort  of  small  bay,  with  its  patch  of  snow 
on  the*  same  plane  with  the  one  I  was  on,  but  sepa* 


I 


ADVENTURES   IN   THE  TYROL. 


869 


t  m 
my  ear 
ig  shot, 
jeart,  I 
ir  hoofs 
ver  the 
ied  him 
and  the 
j^  senses 

f  face  of 
f  falling 
'  treach- 
our  feet, 
le  chasm 
we  were 
our  eyes 
give  us 

be  place 
at  the 
•ther  on, 
ood  had 

atred,  or 
I  raced 
•eloading 
rite  with 
jp  inden- 
the  cliffs 
I  of  snow 
>ut  sepa* 


rated  from  it  by  a  rugged  promontory  of  cliff  and 
broken  rock.  Cautiously  I  scrambled  round  the  point, 
removing  many  a  stone  that  seemed  inclined  to  fall 
and  give  the  alarm  to  the  watchful  chamois,  and  peep- 
ing cautiously  round  the  last  mass  of  rock  that  sepa 
rated  me  from  the  snow  patrh,  I  saw  the  poor  brute, 
standing  not  more  than  sixty  yards  from  me,  his  hoofs 
drawn  close  together  under  him,  ready  for  a  desperate 
rush  at  the  cliff  at  the  first  sound  that  reached  him ; 
his  neck  stretched  out,  and  his  muzzle  nearly  touching 
the  snow,  straining  every  sense  to  catch  some  inkling 
of  the  whereabouts  of  the  mischief  he  felt  was  near 
him. 

With  my  face  glowing  as  if  it  had  been  freshly  blis- 
tered, a  dryness  and  lumping  in  my  throat,  as  if  I  had 
just  escaped  from  an  unsuccessful  display  of  Mr.  Cal- 
craft's  professional  powers,  and  my  heart  thud-thud- 
ding against  my  ribs  at  such  a  rate  that  I  really 
thought  the  gems  must  hear  it  in  the  stillness,  I  raised 
ray  carbine.  Once,  at  the  neck  just  behind  the  ear,  I 
saw  the  brown  hide  clear  at  the  end  of  the  barrel,  but 
I  dared  not  risk  such  a  chance  ;  and  so,  stringing  my 
nerves,  'I  shifted  my  aim  to  just  behind  the  shoulder — 
one  touch  of  the  cold  trigger,  and  as  the  thin  gases 
streamed  off,  rejoicing  at  their  liberation,  I  saw  the 
chamois  shrink  convulsively  when  the  ball  struck  him, 
and  then  fall  heavily  on  the  snow,  shot  right  through 
the  heart.  With  a  who-whoop !  that  might  have  been 
heard  half  way  to  Innspruck,  I  rushed  up  to  him ; — 
one  sweep  of  the  knife — the  red  blood  bubbled  on  to 
the  snow  that  shrunk  and  wasted  before  its  hot  touch, 
as  if  it  felt  itself  polluted,  and  there  laj  stretched  out 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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370 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


in  all  its  beauty  before  me  the  first  gems  I  ever  killed 
— just  as  Joseph  came  up,  panting,  yelling,  and  jod 
ling,  and  rejoicing  at  my  success,  without  a  shade  of 
envy  in  his  honest  heart. 

Now  I  believe,  in  all  propriety,  we  ought  to  have 
been  melancholy,  and  moralized  over  the  slain.  That 
rich,  soft  black  eye,  filming  over  with  the  frothy  breath 
of  death,  and  that  last  convulsive  kick  of  the  hind  legs, 
ought  perhaps  to  have  made  us  feel  that  we  had  done 
rather  a  brutal  and  selfish  thing ;  but  they  did  not. 
This  is  a  truthful  narrative,  and  I  must  confess  that 
our  only  feeling  was  one  of  unmixed  rejoicing.      ^^  ^^ 

I  have  occasionally  moralized  over  a  trout,  flopping 
about  amongst  the  daisies  and  buttercups,  and  dying 
that  horible  suffocation  death  of  my  causing ;  but  it  was 
never,  if  I  remember  right,  the  first  trout  I  had  killed 
that  day.  My  feelings  always  get  finer  as  my  pannier 
gets  fuller,  particularly  if  it  be  a  warm  afternoon,  and 
I  have  lunched. 

But  as  for  the  unfortunate  gems,  we  rejoiced  over 
him  exceedingly ;  we  shook  hands  over  him ;  we  sat 
beside  him  and  on  him ;  we  examined  him  carefully, 
minutely,  scientifically,  from  stem  to  stern.  I  firmly 
believed  that  I  could  pick  him  out  at  this  moment  from 
the  thousand  ghosts  that  attend  the  silver-horned  Gem- 
sen  Konig,  if  I  had  but  the  good  luck  to  fall  in  with 
his  majesty  and  his  charmed  suite. 

Joseph's  ball  had  struck  him  high  up  on  the  neck, 
but  had  not  inflicted  any  thing  like  a  severe  wound. 
Had  we  fired  on  him  from  below,  he  would  have  scaled 
the  cliffs  in  a  moment,  and  been  no  more  seen,  at  least 
by  us ;  but  as  he  knew  that  the  mischief  was  above 


ADVENTURES  IN  THE  TYROL. 


871 


er  killed 
and  jod 
shade  of 

;  to  have 
n.  That 
iiy  breath 
bind  legs, 
had  done 
J  did  not. 
ifess  that 

J,  flopping 
md  dying 
but  it  was 
had  killed 
iy  pannier 
noon,  and 


him,  he  dared  not  ascend — to  descend  was  impossible  ; 
and  so,  getting  to  a  certain  extent  pounded,  he  gave 
me  the  rare  chance  of  a  second  shot. 

Lung  we  sat  and  gazed  at  the  chamois  ;  and  the  wild 
scene  before  us — never  shall  I  forget  it ! — shut  in  on 
three  sides  by  steep  and  frowning  cliffs,  in  front  the 
precipice,  and  far,  far  down,  the  wild,  rocky  valleys, 
divided  by  shivered  ridges,  rising  higher  and  higher  till 
they  mounted  up  into  the  calm,  pure  snow-range,  set 
m  the  frame  of  the  jutting  promontories  on  each  side 
of  us — looking  the  brighter  and  the  "holier"  from  the 
comparative  shade  in  which  we  were.  Not  a  sound  but 
the  occasional  faint  "  swish"  of  the  waterfall  that 
drained  from  the  snow-bed — not  a  living  thing  now  but 
our  two  selves  standing  side  by  side  on  the.  snow.  We 
had  killed  the  third,  and  there  he  lay  stiffening  be- 
tween us. 


[oiced  over 
n;  we  sat 
carefully, 
I  firmly 
)ment  from 
rned  Gem- 
'all  in  with 

the  neck, 
ere  wound, 
lave  scaled 
en,  at  least 

was  above 


0 


ePANisa  cosTux 


PERILOUS    ADVENTURE    OF    LIEUTENANT 
SLIDELL  IN  SPAIN. 

^^ 

lEUTENANT  SLIDELL, 
of  the  United  States  Navv, 
published  about  twenty-one 
years  since,  his  first  book, 
entitled,  "  A  Year  in 
Spain."  It  was  pronounced 
by  the  British  and  American 
Reviews,  the  most  lively, 
readable,  and  truthful  book  of  travels  which  had  ap- 


AbVKNTURE  OF   LIElJTEiN'ANT  SLIDELL. 


373 


[JTENANT 


SLIDELL, 

tatea  Navy, 
twentv-one 
J  first  book, 
Year  in 
pronounced 
id  American 
nost  lively, 
ch   had  ap- 


peared for  a  long  time.  It.«  description  of  characters 
and  adventures  in  Spain,  are  perfectly  graphic,  and 
many  of  them  were  of  the  most  thrilling  interest. 

Of  the  latter  description,  we  will  now  give  a  speci 
men  : — 

The  author  takes  his  seat  about  two  in  the  morninsr 
in  the  cabriolet  or  front  part  of  a  diligence  from  Tarra- 
gona, and  gives  many  amusing  particulars  concerning 
his  fellow-travellers,  who,  one  after  another,  all  surren- 
der themselves  to  slumber.  Thus  powerfully  invited 
by  the  example  of  those  near  him,  the  Lieutenant 
catches  the  drowsy  infection,  and  having 'nestled  snugly 
into  his  corner,  soon  loses  entirely  the  realities  of  ex- 
istence *  in  that  mysterious  state  which  providence  has 
provided  as  a  cure  for  e'  ery  ill.'  In  s>hort,  ho  is  in- 
dulged with  a  dream,  wliich  transports  him  into  the 
midst  of  his  own  familv  circle  bcvond  the  Atlantic  ; 
but  from  this  comfortable  and  sontimciital  iia]»  he  is 
soon  aroused  by  the  sudden  stopping  of  the  diligence, 
and  a  loud  clamour  all  about  him. 

"  There  were  voices  without,  speaking  in  accents  of 
violence,  and  whose  idiom  was  not  of  my  country.  I 
roused  myself,  rubbed  my  C3'cs,  and  directed  them  out 
of  the  windoAvs.  By  the  light  of  a  lantern  that  blazed 
from  the  top  of  the  diligence,  I  could  discover  that  this 
part  of  the  road  was  skirted  by  olive-trees,  and  that 
the  mules,  having  come  in  contact  with  some  obstacle 
to  their  progress,  had  been  thrown  into  confusion,  and 
stood  huddled  together,  as  if  afraid  to  move,  gazing 
upon  each  other,  with  pricked  ears  and  frightened  as- 
lance  to  the  right  ha 


pect. 


igle  gh 


gav( 


!'M 


to  the  mystery.     Just   beside  the  fore-wheel  of  the 


374 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


diligence  stood  a  man,  dressed  in  that  wild  garb  of 
Valencia  which  I  had  seen  for  the  first  time  in  Am- 
posta  :  his  red  cap,  which  flaunted  far  down  his  back, 
was  in  front  drawn  closely  over  his  forehead  ;  and  his 
striped  manta,  instead  of  being  rolled  around  him,  hung 
unembarrassed  from  one  i^ouider.  Whilst  his  left  leg 
was  thrown  forward  in  preparation,  a  musket  was 
levelled  in  his  hands,  along  the  barrel  of  which  his  eye 
glared  fiercely  upon  the  visage  of  the  conductor.  On 
the  other  side  the  scene  was  somewhat  different. 
Pepe  (the  postilion)  being  awake  when  the  interruption 
took  place,  wsis  at  once  sensible  of  its  nature.  He 
had  abandoned  the  reins,  and  jumped  from  his  seat  to 
the  road-side,  intending  to  escape  among  the  trees. 
Unhappy  youth,  that  he  slioull  not  have  accomplished 
his  purpose!  lie  was  met  by  the  muzzle  of  a  musket 
when  he  had  scarce  touched  t!ie  ground,  and  a  third 
ruffi.wi  appearing  at  the  same  moment  from  tho 
treacherous  concealment  of  the  very  trees  towards 
which  he  was  flying,  he  was  effectually  taken  and 
brought  round  into  tlio  road,  where  he  was  made  to 
stretch  himself  upon  his  face,  as  had  already  been  done 
with  the  conductor.  *-»■ 

"  I  could  now  distinctly  hear  one  of  these  robbers — 
for  such  they  were — inquire  in  Spanish  of  the  mayoral 
as  to  the  number  of  passengers  ;  if  any  were  armed ; 
whether  there  was  any  money  in  tho  diligence;  and 
then,  as  a  conclusion  to  the  interrogatory,  demanding 
La  Boha !  in  a  more  angry  tone.  The  poor  fellow 
meekly  obcye  1 :  ho  raised  himself  high  enough  to  draw 
a  large  leathern  purse  from  an  inner  pocket,  and 
stretching  his  hand  upward  to  deliver  it,  said,  Toma 


ADVENTURE  OF  -UEUTKNANT  SLIDELL. 


376 


garb  of 
e  in  Am- 
his  back, 

and  his 

lim,  hung 

ia  left  leg 

isket  was 

5h  his  eye 

tor.     On 

different. 

terruption 

;ure.     He 

lis  seat  to 

the  trees. 

omplished 

a  musket 

id  a  third 

from    tho 

8   towards 

taken   and 

i  made  to 

been  done 

• 

robbers — 
16  mayoral 
!re  armed ; 
ence ;  and 
iemanding 
oor  fellow 
^h  to  draw 
•cket,  and 
laid,  Toma 


usted,  cahallero,  pero  no  me  quita  usted  la  Vida! 
"  Take  it,  cavalier ;  but  do  not  take  away  my  life  !" 
The  robber,  however,  was  pitiless.  Bringing  a  stone 
from  a  large  heap,  collected  for  the  repair  of  the  road, 
he  fell  to  beating  the  mayoral  upon  the  head  with  it 
The  unhappy  man  sent  forth  the  most  piteous  cries  foi 
muerieordia  and  piedad.  He  might  as  well  have 
asked  pity  of  the  stone  that  smote  him,  as  of  the 
wretch  who  wielded  it.  In  his  agony  he  invoked  Jesu 
Ohriato,  Santiago  Apostol  y  Martir,  La  Virgin  del 
Pilar,  and  all  those  sacred  names  held  in  awful  reve- 
rence by  the  people,  and  most  likely  to  arrest  the  rage 
of  his  assassin.  All  in  vain  :  the  murderer  redoubled 
his  blows,  until  growing  furious  in  his  task,  he  laid  his 
musket  beside  him,  and  worked  with  both  hands  upon 
his  victim.  The  cries  for  pity  which  blows  at  first  ex- 
cited, blows  at  length  quelled.  They  had  gradually 
increased  with  the  suffering  to  the  most  terrible  ^rieks ; 
then  declined  into  low  and  inarticulate  moans ;  until  a 
deep  drawn  and  agonized  gasp  for  breath,  and  an  oc- 
casional convulsion,  alone  remained  to  show  that  the 
vital  principle  had  not  yet  departed. 

t  "  It  fared  even  worse  with  Pepe,  though,  instead  of 
the  cries  for  pity,  which  had  availed  the  mayoral  so 
little,  he  uttered  nothing  but  low  moans  that  died  away 
in  the  dust  beneath.  One  might  have  thought  that 
the  extreme  youth  of  the  lad  would  have  ensured  him 
compassion :  but  no  such  thing.  The  robbers  were 
doubtless  of  Amposta,  and,  being  knowft  to  him, 
dreaded  discovery.  When  both  the  victims  had  been 
rendered  insensible,  there  was  a  short  pause,  and  a 
consultation    -n   a   low   tone   betweeu   tbo   ruffians; 


i  .    ii 


876 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


0 


who  then  proceeded  to  execute  their  plans.  The 
first  went  round  to  the  left  side  of  the  diligence, 
and,  having  unhooked  the  iron  shoe  and  placed  it 
under  the  wheel,  as  an  additional  security  against 
escape,  opened  the  door  of  the  interior,  and  mounted 
on  the  steps.  I  could  hear  him  distinctly  utter  a  ter- 
rible threat  in  Spanish,  and  demand  an  ounce  of 
gold  from  each  of  the  passengers.  This  was  an- 
swered by  an  expostulation  from  the  Yalencian  shop- 
keeper, who  said  that  they  had  not  so  much  money, 
but  what  they  had  would  be  given  willingly.  There 
was  then  a  jingling  of  purses,  some  pieces  dropping 
on  the  floor  in  the  hurry  and  agitation  of  the  mo- 
ment. Having  remained  a  short  time  at  the  door 
of  the  interior,  he  did  not  come  to  the  cabriolet, 
but  passed  at  once  to  the  rotunda.  Here  he  used 
greater  caution,  doubtless  from  having  seen  the  even- 
ing before,  at  Amposta,  that  it  contained  no  women, 
but  six  young  students,  who  were  all  stout  fellows. 
They  were  made  to  come  down,  one  by  one,  from 
their  strong  hold,  deliver  their  money  and  watches, 
and  then  lie  flat  upon  their  faces  in  the  road. 

"Meanwhile,  the  second  robber,  after  consulting 
with  his  companion,  returned  to  the  spot  where  the 
zagal  Pepe  lay  rolling  from  side  to  side.  As  he 
went  towards  him,  he  drew  a  knife  from  the  folds 
of  his  sash,  and  having  opened  it,  placed  one  of  his 
naked  legs  on  either  side  of  his  victim.  Pushing 
aside  the  jacket  of  the  youth,  he  bent  forward  and 
dealt  him  repeated  blows  in  every  part  of  the  body. 
The  young  priest,  my  companion,  shrunk  back  shud- 
dering into  his  corner,  and   hid   his  face  within  his 


ADVENTURE   OP   LIEUTENANT   SLIDELL. 


C77 


[Suiting 
sre  the 
As  he 

folds 
of  his 
ushing 
rd  and 

body. 

shud- 
lin  his 


trembling  fingers  ;  but  my  own  eyes  seemed  spell- 
bound, for  I  could  not  withdraw  them  from  the  cruel 
spectacle,  and  my  ears  wore  more  sensible  than  ever. 
Though  the  windows  at  the  front  and  sides  were 
still  closed,  I  could  distinctly  hear  each  stroke  of  the 
murderous  knife,  as  it  entered  its  victim.  It  was  not 
a  blunt  sound  as  of  a  weapon  that  meets  with  posi- 
tive resistance  ;  but  a  hissing  noise,  as  if  the  household 
implement,  made  to  part  the  bread  of  peace,  per- 
formed unwillingly  its  task  of  treachery.  This  mo- 
ment was  the  unhappiest  of  my  life  ;  and  it  struck  me 
at  the  time,  that  if  any  situation  could  be  more  worthy 
of  pity,  than  to  die  the  -dog's  death  of  poor  Pepo,  it 
^Yas  to  bo  compelled  to  witness  his  fate,  without  the 
power  to  aid  him.  -ur  i 

"  Having  completed  the  deed  to  his  satisfaction, 
this  cold-blooded  murderer  came  to  the  door  of  the 
cabriolet,  and  endeavoured  to  open  it.  He  shook  it 
violently,  calling  to  us  to  assist  him ;  but  it  had 
chanced  hitherto  that  we  had  always  got  out  on  the 
other  side,  and  the  young  priest,  who  had  never  before 
been  in  a  diligence,  thought,  from  the  circumstance, 
that  there  was  but  one  door,  and  therefore  answered 
the  fellow  that  he  must  go  to  the  other  side.  On  the 
first  arrival  of  these  unwelcome  visiters,  I  had  taken  a 
valuable  watch  which  I  wore  from  my  waistcoat  pocket, 
and  slipped  it  into  my  boot :  but  when  they  fell  to  beating 
in  the  heads  of  our  guides,  I  bethought  mo  that  the 
few  dollars  I  carried  in  my  purse  might  not  satisfy 
them,  and  replaced  it  again  in  readiness  to  be  delivered 
at  the  shortest  notice.  These  precautions  were,  how- 
ever, unnecessary.     The  third  ruffian,  who  had  con- 

32* 


378 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


0 


tinued  to  make  the  circuit  of  the  diligence  with  his 
musket  in  his  hand,  panaod  a  moment  in  the  road 
ahead  of  us,  and  having  placed  his  head  to  the  ground  aa 
if  to  listen,  presently  came  and  spoke  in  an  under  tone 
to  his  companions.  They  stood  for  a  moment  over  the 
mayoral  and  struck  his  head  with  the  butts  of  their 
muskets,  whilst  the  fellow  who  had  before  used  the  knife, 
returned  to  make  a  few  farewell  thrusts,  and  in  another 
moment  they  had  all  disappeared  from  around  us. 

"  In  consequence  of  the  darkness,  which  was  only 
partially  dispelled  in  front  of  the  diligence  by  the  lan- 
tern which  had  enabled  me  to  see  what  occurred  so  im- 
mediately before  me,  wo  were  n6t  at  once  sensible  of  the 
departure  of  the  robbers,  but  continued  near  half  an 
hour  after  their  disappearance  in  the  same  situation  in 
which  they  left  us.  The  short  breathings,  and  the 
chattering  of  teeth,  lately  so  audible  from  within  the 
interior,  gradually  subsided,  and  were  succeeded  by 
whispers  of  the  females,  and  soon  after  by  words  pro- 
nounced in  a  louder  tone  ;  whilst  our  mangled  guides, 
by  groans  and  writhings,  gave  evidence  of  returning 
animation. 

"  Our  first  care,  when  thus  left  to  ourselves,  was  to 
see  if  any  thing  could  be  done  for  our  upf'^^'^^^nnate 
guides.  We  found  them  rolling  over  in  the  dust,  and 
moaning  inarticulately,  excepting  that  the  conductor 
veould  occasionally  murmur  forth  some  of  those  sainted 
names  whose  aid  he  had  vainly  invoked  in  the  moment 
of  tribulation.  Having  taken  down  the  light  from  the 
top  of  the  coach,  we  found  them  so  much  disfigured  with 
bruises  and  with  blood  that  recognition  would  have 
been  impossible.     The  finery  of  poor  Pepe,  his  silver 


h 

sr 

dl 

si 


ADVENTURE   OP   LIEUTENANT   BLIDELL. 


379 


ith  his 
0  road 
3und  as 
er  tone 
>ver  the 
3f  their 
le  knife, 
another 
us. 

ivas  only 
the  lan- 
3d  so  im- 
)le  of  the 
half  an 
;uation  in 
and  the 
ithin  the 
leded  by 
ords  pro- 
guides, 
returning 

;s,  was  to 
ifortnnate 
dust,  and 
conductor 
ise  sainted 
le  moment 

from  the 
gured  "with 
ould  have 

his  silver 


buttons  an^'  his  sash  of  silk  were  scarcely  less  dis- 
figured than  his  features.  There  happened  to  be  in 
our  party  a  student  of  medicine,  who  now  took  the  lead 
in  the  Samaritan  office  of  binding,  with  pieces  of  linen 
and  pocket  handkerchiefs,  the  wounds  of  these  un- 
happy men." 

The  wounded  men  were  at  length  placed  in  a  cart, 
and  sent  back  slowly  to  Amposta,  the  mayoral  show- 
ing some  signs  of  returning  sensibility,  but  the  unfor 
tunate  Pepe  evidently  in  his  last  agony.  The  diligence 
proceeded  on  its  route,  and  stopped  to  breakfast  at 
Vinaroz. 

The  kitchen  of  the  posada  at  Vinaroz  offered  a  sceno 
of  unusual  confusion.  The  hostess  was  no  other  than 
the  mother  of  Pepe,  a  very  decent-looking  Catalan 
woman,  who,  I  understood,  had  been  sent  there  the 
year  before  by  the  Diligence  Company,  which  is  con- 
cerned in  all  the  inns  at  which  their  coaches  stop 
throughout  the  line.  Sho  had  already  been  told  of  the 
probable  fate  of  her  son,  and  was  preparing  to  set  off 
for  Amposta  in  the  deepest  affliction ;  and  yet  her 
sorrow,  though  evidently  real,  was  singularly  combined 
with  her  habitual  household  cares.  The  unusual  de- 
mand for  breakfast  by  fourteen  hungry  passengers  had 
created  some  little  confusion,  and  the  poor  woman,  in- 
stead of  leaving  these  matters  to  take  care  of  them- 
selves, felt  the  force  of  habit,  and  was  issuing  a  variety 
of  orders  to  her  assistant ;  nor  was  she  unmindful  of 
her  appearance,  but  had  already  changed  her  frock  and 
stockings,  and  thrown  on  her  mantilla,  preparatory  to 
departure.  It  was  indeed  a  singular  and  piteous 
sight  to  see  the  poor  perplexed  woman  changing  some 


880 


PERILOUS   ADVKNTUIIKS. 


0 
0, 


iiah  that  Avoro  frying,  lost  they  should  bo  burnt  on  one 
side,  adjusting  and  rcpinning  her  mantilla,  and  sobbing 
and  crying  all  the  while.  When  the  man  came,  how- 
ever, to  say  that  the  mule  was  in  readiness,  every  thing 
was  forgotten  but  the  feelings  of  the  mother,  and  she 
hurried  off  in  deep  and  unsupprcssed  affliction.  y- 

This  picture  of  a  mother's  affliction  mingled  with  her 
habitual  household  cares  is  singularly  touching,  and, 
being  drawn  from  fact,  shows  us  the  truth  to  nature 
of  one  of  Scott's  scenes  in  the  '  Antiquary,'  where  a 
similar  conflict  takes  place  in  the  mind  of  the  poor 
fisherman's  wife  who  had  lost  her  son — an  exquisite 
touch,  rthy  of  the  great  master  that  struck  it  off, 
and,  indeed,  only  to  be  effected  by  a  master  hand.    '  ' 

We  may  as  well  add  here  the  catastrophe  of  this 
tragical  tale.  From  information  received  by  the  Lieu- 
tenant, after  his  arrival  in  Madrid,  it  appears  that  poor 
Pepe  breathed  his  last  about  eight  hours  after  the 
attack,  and  long  before  his  widowed  mother  could 
arrive  to  close  the  eyes  of  her  child.  The  mayoral 
lingered  for  about  a  week,  and  then  shared  the  fate  of 
Pepe.  The  three  robbers  were  detected  and  taken  into 
custody;  two  of  them  were  townsmen,  and  all  three 
acquaintances  of  Pepe,  whom  they  had  doubtless 
murdered  to  prevent*  discovery.  We  ourselves  passed 
over  the  scene  of  the  robbery  between  two  and  three 
years  after  the  event :  there  were  two  crosses  to  mark 
the  bloody  spot.  The  mayoral  and  the  zagal  of  our 
diligence,  the  successors  of  those  who  had  been  mur- 
dered, pointed  to  the  crosses  with  the  mng  froid  with 
which  Spaniards,  from  long  habitude,  contemplate 
mementos  of  the  kind.     The  mayoral  showed  the  very 


advi:ntuuk  or  lieutenant  slidell. 


381 


place  where  hU  predecessor  had  been  beaten  to  death. 
On  our  expressing  horror  at  the  detail  ho  readily  con- 
curred, though  he  appeared  more  indignant  at  the 
manner  in  which  tho  crime  had  been  committed  than 
at  the  crime  itself.  *  It  is  the  ugliest  thing  {lo  mas  feo) 
that  has  been  done  in  this  neighbourhood  for  a  long 
time  past.  Look  you,  sir,  to  shoot  a  man  with  a  blun 
derbuss,  or  to  stab  him  with  a  knife,  is  quite  another 
kind  of  business;  but  to  beat  his  brains  out  with  a 
stone  is  to  treat  him,  not  like  a  Christian,  but  a  dog !' 
It  was  evident  that  a  frequent  occurrence  of  such  scenes 
had  rendered  the  mayoral  a  critic  in  the  art  of  murder. 
After  his  dismal  affair  with  the  robbers,  the  Lieu- 
tenant pursued  his  journey  to  Madrid,  meeting  witli 
no  adventure  of  importance,  though  with  a  variety  of 
pleasant  incidents  and  characteristic  personages,  all 
which  he  describes  with  happy  minuteness. 


•'  /■-.'-. 


i 

■    *..'*4  .:  ' 

.0 

U- 

.,^,.f 

M- 

*A 

s.* '*  .* 

.'V<1 

t  i"^  .rf.*. 

•i  '• 

V  V 

,5<i;.;oi^ 

.nt 

"  S-S' 

H* 


I' 

i.. 


i 


iii 


ny'i    ■^..:.':v   "* 


0 

0, 


IPAMSn  FBI£ST  AND  PJEASANTS 


ANOTHER  ADVENTURE   OF  LIEUTENANT 
SLIDELL  WITH  ROBBERS  IN  SPAIN. 

E  have  given  a  tragical 
adventure  "with  robbers 
during  the  Lieutenant's 
journey  to  Madrid.  We 
now  present,  as  ^  pendant^ 
a  comic  account  of  another 
robbery,  which  took  place 
on  his  route  to  Cordova. 
Leaving  Madrilejos,  we 
travelled  on,  through  a  solitary  country,  until  we  came 
to  the  venta  of  Puerto  Lapiche,  the  very  house  in 
which  Don  Quixote  watched  over  his  armour  and  was 
dubbed  knight  errant  in  the  beginning  of  his  adventur- 
ous career.  The  confhictor  had  taken  his  seat  beside 
me  in  the  rotunda,  and  we  were  yet  talking  over  the 
exploits  of  tlmt  ren'i'.vned  hero,  whe«i  our  conversation 


tl 
si 


ADVENTURE  WITH  ROBBERS. 


383 


jA'  '■■'■■- 


IN. 

tragical 
robbers 
tenant's 
d.    We 
tendant, 
another 
ok  place 
)rdova. 
[ejos,  we 
we  came 
lOUse  in 
and  was 
,dventur- 
at  beside 
over  the 
versation 


I 


was  suddenly  and  unceremoniously  interrupted  by  the 
discharge  of  muskets,  the  loud  shouting  of  eager,  angry 
vou^es,  and  the  clattering  of  many  hoofs.  Here,  in- 
deed, is  an  adventure,  thought  I.  —  0  for  Don  Quixote 
to  protect  us !  —  In  the  next  moment  the  diligence 
stopped,  and  on  looking  out  at  the  window,  the  cause 
of  this  interruption  became  manifest. 

Our  four  guards  were  flying  at  a  fearful  rate,  closely 
pursued  by  eight  still  more  desperate-looking  fellows, 
dressed  in  sheepskin  jackets  and  breeches,  with  leathern 
leggiiigs,  and  montera  caps,  or  cotton  handkerchiefs, 
on  their  heads.  Each  had  four  pistols  at  his  saddle- 
bow, a  steel  sabre  at  his  side,  a  long  knife  thrust  through 
the  belt  of  his  cartouch-box,  and  a  carbine,  in  this 
moment  of  preparation,  held  across  his  horse's  neck  in 
front  of  him.  It  was  an  animated  scene  this — such  as 
I  had  frequently  before  seen  on  canvass,  in  Wouver- 
man's  spirited  little  pictures  of  robber  broils  and  battle 
scenes,  but  which  I  had  never  before  been  so  highly 
favoured  as  to  witness  in  reality. 

Whilst  this  was  going  on  in  the  road  behind  us,  we 
Avere  made  to  get  down  by  one  of  the  party  who  had 
been  left  to  take  care  of  us,  and  who  now  shouted  in 
rapid  succession  the  words,  "  AJo !  a  tierra !  hoca 
abajo,  ladrones !"  As  this  is  the  robber  formula 
throughout  Spain,  its  translation  may  not  be  unaccep- 
table to  the  reader.  Let  him  learn,  then,  that  ajo 
means  garlic,  and  the  remainder  of  the  salutation, 
"  To  the  ground !  mouths  in  the  dust,  robbers !" 
Though  this  formula  was  uttered  with  great  volubility, 
the  present  was  doubtless  the  first  attempt  of  the  per* 
son  from  whom  it  proceeded:  a  youth  scarce  turned 


.I'-' 


384 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


of  twenty,  and  evidently  a  novice — a  mere  Gil  Bias — 
at  the  business.  We  did  not,  however,  obey  him  the 
less  quickly,  and  took  our  seats  as  ordered,  upon  tho 
ground,  in  front  of  the  mules  and  horses,  so  that  they 
could  only  advance  by  passing  over  us ;  for  he  was  so 
much  agitated  that  his  musket  shook  like  the  spout  of 
a  fire-engine,  and  we  knew  full  well  that  in  such  situa- 
tions a  frightened  is  not  less  to  be  dreaded  than  a  furi- 
ous man.  Our  conductor,  to  whom  this  scene  offered 
no  novelty,  and  who  was  anxious  to  oblige  our  visitors, 
placed  himself  upon  his  hands  and  knees,  like  a  frog 
when  he  is  about  to  jump,  and  asked  if  that  was  the . 
right  way.  He  took  care,  however,  to  turn  his  unplea- 
sant situation  to  account,  putting  a  huge  watch  into  the 
rut  of  the  road,  and  covering  it  carefully  with  sand. 
Some  of  the  party  imitated  this  grasshopper  attitude, 
and  Fray  Antonio  availed  himself  of  the  occasion  and 
the  devotional  posture  to  bring  up  the  arrears  of  his 
Paters  and  Aves.      "'    '  -     .-v.    -.  , 

We  had  not  been  long  thus,  before  the  captain  of 
the  band  returned,  leaving  five  of  his  party  to  take 
care  of  the  guards,  three  of  whom  stood  their  ground 
and  behaved  well.  The  first  thing  the  captain  did, 
when  he  rode  among  us,  was  to  call  to  the  conductor 
for  his  hat ;  after  which,  he  bade  him  mount  upon  the 
diligence,  and  throw  down  whatever  was  there.  He  can 
tioned  him  at  the  same  time  to  look  around,  and  see  it 
any  thing  was  coming — adding,  with  a  terrible  voice,  as 
he  half  lifted  his  carbine,  "  And  have  a  care  !" — "  Y 
cuidado  !"  The  conductor  quietly  obeyed,  and  the  cap 
tain  having  told  us  to  get  up  and  not  be  alarmed,  as  no 
harm  was  intended,  called  to  us  to  put  our  watches  and 


t 


Si 

tr 


AbVEN-Tunii;  with  uobders. 


885 


Bias— 
lim  the 
pon  tho 
lat  they 
1  was  so 
spout  of 
5h  situa- 
1  a  furi- 
!  offered 
visitors, 
e  a  frog 
;  was  tho 
3  unplea- 
.  into  the 
ith  sand, 
attitude, 
ision  and 
irs  of  his 

iptain  of 
J  to  take 
ir  ground 
)tain  did, 
conductor 
;  upon  the 
He  cai^ 
and  see  it 
e  voice,  aa 
e !"— "  Y 
id  the  cap 
med,  as  no 
atches  and 


money  into  the  conductor's  hat,  which  he  held  out  for  th« 
[jurpose,  much  in  the  oixiinary  way  of  making  a  collec- 
tion, except  th*t  instead  of  coming  to  us,  he  sat  very 
much  at  his  ease  upon  his  horse,  and  let  us  come  to 
liim,  I  threw  my  purso  in,  and  as  it  had  nine  or  ton 
silver  dollars,  it  made  a  very  good  appearance,  and 
fell  with  a  heavy  chink.  Then,  grasping  the  bunch  of 
brass  keys  and  buttons  which  hung  from  my  fob,  I 
drew  out  the  huge  watch  which  I  had  bought  at  Madrid, 
in  contemplation  of  some  such  event,  and  whose  case 
might  upon  emergency  have  served  the  purpose  of  a 
warming-pan.  Having  looked  with  a  consequential 
air  at  the  time,  which  it  marked  within  six  hours,  I 
placed  it  carefully  in  the  hat  of  the  conductor.  The 
collection  over,  the  captain  emptied  purses,  watches, 
and  loose  money,  all  together  into  a  large  leathern 
pocket  which  hung  from  his  girdle,  and  then  let  the 
hat  drop  under  his  horse's  hoofs. 

'  "  Ounador'  — "Brother-in-law!"  said  the  captain 
to  one  of  the  worthies,  his  companions,  "  take  a  look 
into  those  trunks  and  boxes,  and  see  if  there  be  any 
thing  in  them  that  will  suit  us." — "2/a«  Haves, 
senoresJ" — "The  keys,  gentlemen  I"  "And  do  you, 
ztigal,  cast  me  loose  those  two  horses  on  the  lead :  a 
fine  fellow  is  that  near  horse  with  the  saddle."  The 
two  persons  thus  suminoned  set  about  obeying  with  a 
very  different  grace.  Our  cunado  dismounted  at  once, 
and  hitched  his  horse  to  the  friar's  trunk.  He  then 
took  from  the  crupper  of  his  saddle  a  little  bundle, 
which  being  unrolled  expanded  into  a  prodigious  long 
sack,  with  a  yawning  mouth  in  the  middle.  This  he 
threw  over  his  arm,  with  the  mouth  uppermost,  and 

33 


S86 


PERILOUS   ADVEISTURES. 


0 


■with  a  certain  professional  air.  He  was  a  queer, 
systematic  little  fellow  this,  with  a  meek  and  Joseph 
C9!8t  of  countenance,  that  in  a  market-place  would  have 
inspired  the  most  profound  confidence.  Having  called 
for  the  own  of  the  nearest  trunk,  the  good  friar 
made  his  appearance,  and  he  accosted  him  with  great 
composure.  "  Open  it  yourself,  padre :  you  know  the 
lock  better  than  I  do."  The  padre  complied  with 
becoming  resignation,  and  the  worthy  trunk-inspector 
proceeded  to  take  out  an  odd  collection  of  loose 
breeches  that  were  secured  with  a  single  button,  robes 
of  white  flannel,  and  handkerchiefs  filled  with  snuff. 
He  had  got  to  the  bottom  without  finding  aught  that 
could  be  useful  to  any  but  a  friar  of  Mercy,  and  there 
were  none  such  in  the  fraternity,  when,  as  a  last  hope, 
he  pulled  from  one  corner  something  square,  that 
might  have  been  a  box  of  diamonds,  but  which  proved 
to  be  only  a  breviary  fastened  with  a  clasp.  The 
trunk  of  the  Biscayan  came  next,  and  as  it  belonged 
to  a  sturdy  trader  from  Bilboa,  furnished  much  better 
picking.  Last  of  all  he  came  to  mine ;  for  I  had  de- 
layed opening  it,  until  he  had  called  repeatedly  for  the 
key,  in  the  hope  that  the  arrival  of  succour  might  hurry 
the  robbers  away,  or  at  least  that  this  double  sack 
would  fill  itself  from  the  others,  which  was  certainly 
very  charitable.  The  countenance  of  our  cunado 
brightened  up  when  he  saw  the  contents  of  my  well- 
filled  trunk ;  and  not  unlike  Sancho  of  old,  when  he 
stumbled  upon  the  portmanteau  of  the  disconsolate 
Cardenio  in  the  neighbouring  Sierra  Morena,  he  went 
down  upon  one  knee,  and  fell  to  his  task  most  inquisi- 
tively.    Though  the  sack  was  already  filled  out  to  a 


ia 


!     , 


„ji^^ 


ADVENTURE  WITH  KOBBERS. 


887 


a  queer, 
a  Joseph 
ouW  have 
ing  called 
rood  friar 
with  great 
t  know  the 
plied  with 
Ic-inspectov 
^    of   loose 
itton,  robes 
with  snuft". 
aught  that 
,  and  there 
a  last  hope, 
square,   that 
aich  proved 
clasp.     The  * 
it  belonged 
much  better 
for  I  had  de- 
,tedly  for  the 
:  might  hurry 
double  sack 
was  certainly 
our    cunado 
s  of  my  well- 
old,  when  he 
}  disconsolate 
)rena,  he  went 
:  most  inquisi- 
&llod  out  to  a 


very  bloated  size,  yet  tliere  remained  room  for  nearly 
all  my  linen  and  summer  clothing,  which  was  doubtless 
preferred  in  consideration  of  the  approaching  heats. 
My  gold  watch  and  seal  went  in  search  of  its  silver 
companion ;  for  Senor  Cunado  slipped  it  slyly  into  his 
side  pocket,  and  though  there  be  no  secrets  among 
•relations,  I  have  my  doubts  whether  to  this  day  he  has 
ever  spoke  of  it  to  his  brother-in-law. 

Meantime,  our  female  companion  had  made  acquain- 
tance with  the  captain  of  the  band,  who  for  a  robber 
was  quite  a  conscientious  and  conversable  person.  He 
was  a  stout,  athletic  man,  about  forty  years  old,  with  a 
weather-beaten  face  and  long  ^vhiskers,  -which  grew 
chieily  under  his  chin,  in  the  modern  fashion,  and  like 
the  beard  of  a  gout.  He  gave  orders  not  to  open  the 
trunk  of  the  hnh^  and  then  went  on  to  apologize  for 
the  trouble  he  was  giving  uts  and  had  well  nigh  con- 
vinced us  that  he  awis  doing  a  very  praiseworthy  act. 
lie  said  that  if  ihe  proprietors  of  the  diligence  would 
procure  his  partlon,  and  employ  him  as  escort,  he  would 
serve  them  taree  niontlis  for  nothing — "  Tres  mcseH  de 
valde.  Soj  Felipe  (Mno,  ?/,  par  mal  noiubre,  el  Caca- 
ruco' — said  he — "  I  am  Philip  Cano,  nicknamed  the 
Cacaruco.  M;;  ratcatcher  am  I ;  but  a  regular  robber. 
I  have  no  otlier  profession  or  means  of  bringing  up  a 
large  family  with  any  decency."      ' 

In  twentv  minutes  after  the  arrival  of  ttiese  nnwel 
come  visitors,  tlioy  had  linished  levying  their  contribu- 
tion, and  drew  together  to  move  oft".  The  double  sack 
of  the' inspectors  was  thrown  over  the  back  of  one  of 
the  horses  that  had  been  taken  from  the  diligence ;  for 
in  this  part  of  the  country  the  leaders  of  the  teams 


I     .! 


388 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


were  generally  horses.  The  horse  now  loaded  with 
such  a  singular  burden  was  a  spirited  animal,  and 
seemed  to  understand  that  all  was  not  right ;  for  he 
kicked  away  among  the  guns  and  sabres  of  the  robbers, 
until  one  of  them,  thus  roughly  handled,  drew  his  sword 
to  kill  him,  and  would  have  executed  his  purpose,  had 
he  not  been  restrained  by  Cacaruco.  Before  the  rob- 
bers departed,  the  postilion  told  Cacaruco  that  he  had 
nothing  in  the  world  but  the  two  horses,  and  that  if  ho 
lost  them  he  was  a  ruined  man :  he  begged  him,  at 
least,  to  leavf^  him  the  poorer  of  the  two.  After  a 
short  parley,  the  request  was  granted,  and  then  they 
moved  oflf  at  a  walk,  talking  and  gesticulating,  without 
once  looking  back.  We  kept  sight  of  them  for  near 
half  an  hour,  as  they  moved  towards  a  ravine  which 
lay  at  the  foot  of  a  neighbouring  mountain. 

We  now  commenced  packing  up  th3  remnant  of  our 
wardrobes.  It  was  a  sorrowful  scene.  Here  a  box 
emptied  of  some  valuable  articles,  and  the  shavings  in 
which  it  had  been  packed  driven  in  every  direction  by 
the  wind ;  there  another,  which  had  been  broken  in  by 
the  butt  of  a  musket,  that  had  passed  with  little  cere- 
mony through  the  shade  of  an  astral  lamp  ;  here  shirts, 
and  there  waistcoats — and  th  fe  a  solitary  pair  of  red 
flannel  drawers ;  every  where,  however,  sorrowful 
f;icos  and  plaintive  lamentations.  I  tried  to  console 
myself,  as  I  locked  my  trunk,  with  reflecting  upon  the 
trouble  I  had  found  the  day  before  in  shutting  it  down 
— !i(<\v  I  had  tugged,  and  grated  my  teeth,  and  jumped 
upon  it ;  but  this  was  poor  consolation.  My  little 
portmanteau,  yesterday  so  bloated  and  big,  now  looked 
lean  and  flabby.     I  put  my  foot  upon  it,  and  it  sunk 


ADVENTURE   WITH   ROBBEllS. 


389 


jd  with 
al,  and 

for  ho 
robbers, 
is  sword 
ose,  had 
the  rob- 
t  he  had 
hat  if  ho 

him,  at 

After  a 
hen  they 
r,  -Without 
I  for  near 
ine  which 

mt  of  our 
ere  a  box 
havings  in 
irection  by 
oken  in  by 
little  cere- 
here  shirts, 
pair  of  red 
sorrowful 
to  console 
g  upon  the 
ing  it  down 
and  jumped 
My  little 
now  looked 
and  it  sunk 


slowly  under  the  pressure.  I  now  looked  round  for 
the  robbers.  They  were  still  seen  in  the  distance, 
moving  away  at  a  walk,  and  followed  by  the  horse, 
upon  which  was  mounted  that  insatiate  sack,  which 
would  have  touched  the  ground  on  cither  side,  had  it 
not  been  crammed  so  full  as  to  keep  it  from  touching 
the  horse's  ribs.  There  was  a  singular  association  of 
ideas  between  the  fatness  of  the  bag  and  the  leanness 
of  my  trunk ;  and  as  I  still  stood  with  one  foot  on  my 
trunk  and  turning  my  thumbs  about  each  other,  I  set 
up  a  faint  whistle,  as  a  baffled  man  is  iipt  to  do.  By 
a  singular  coincidence  I  happeneu  ^o  hit  upon  that 
very  waltz  in  the  Freyschutz,  where  the  music  seems  to 
accompany  the  waltzers,  and  gradually  dies  away  as 
they  disappear  from  the  stage ;  and  that  at  a  moment 
too  when  the  robbers,  having  crossed  a  slight  elevation, 
were  descending  into  the  hollow  beyond.  The  apropos 
seemed  excellent ;  so  I  continued  to  whistle,  winding 
up  as  the  heads  of  the  robbers  bobbed  up  and  down, 
and  just  blew  the  last  note  as  they  sank  below  the 
horizon. 


33* 


0 
0, 


-— -K---^--^ 


AFRICAN  FAUILI. 


ADVENTURES   OF  LIEUT.   COL.   DENHAM 
IN  AFRICA. 


IXON  DENIIAM  was  born 
in  London  on  the  first  of 
January,  1786,  and  was  edu- 
cated to  be  a  solicitor.  This 
profession  proved  uncongenial,  and 
he  entered  the  army.  After  serving 
through  the  peninsular  war,  and  at 
the  battle  of  Waterloo,  and  winning  high  honour  for 
military  talent  and  courage,  Denham  volunteered  to 
succeed  Mr.  Ritchie,  the  African  traveller.     He  arrived 


AD\ENTURES   OF   DENHAM   IN   AFIIICA. 


891 


^t  Tripoli,  and  on  the  fifth  of  March,  1822,  proceeded 
to  join  Messrs.  Oudney  and  Clapperton,  at  Memoon, 
whence  he  travoUed  to  Sockna,  being  the  first  of  his 
countrymen  who  had  ever  entered  the  town  in  an 
English  dress. 

From  Sockna,  ho  continued  hia  course  towards 
Mourzuk,  crossing,  on  his  way  thither,  an  extensive 
desert,  where  he  experienced  great  pain  and  peril  from 
the  effects  of  thirst  and  a  tremendous  sand  storm  which 
blew  down  his  tent  in  the  night,  and  nearly  suffocated 
him  before  he  was  able  to  rise.  On  his  arrival  at 
Mourzuk,  finding  the  suitan  unwilling  to  furnish  him 
with  an  escort  to  Bornou,  he  left  his  companions, 
and  returned  to  Tripoli ;  charged  the  bashaw  with 
duplicity ;  and,  on  his  hesitating  to  appoint  a  time 
to  convey  him  to  the  former  place,  set  sail  for  Mar- 
seilles, with  the  intention  of  proceeding  to  England, 
and  informing  the  government  how  he  had  been  de- 
ceived. Upon  this,  says  Major  Denham,  in  his  journal, 
*  The  bashaw  sent  three  despatches  after  me,  by  three 
different  vessels,  to  Leghorn,  Malta,  and  the  port  I  had 
eailcd  to,  which  I  received  in  quarantine,  informing 
me  that  Bhoo-Khaloom  was  appointed  with  an  escort 
to  convey  us  to  Bornou."  Accordingly,  our  traveller 
reimbarked  for  the  shores  of  Barbary,  and  re-entered 
Sockna  on  the  2nd,  and  Mourzuk  on  the  30th  of  Oc- 
tober ;  and,  in  the  latter  end  of  the  following  month, 
fict  out  on  his  way  to  Kouka,  in  Bornou. 

Passing  through  Traghan,  over  a  road  of  salt  and 
sand,  to  Maefen,  "an  assemblage  of  date-huts,  with 
but  one  house,"  he  came  up  with  Oudney  and  Clap- 
perton, at  Gatrone ;  whence  he  proceeded  to  Tegerhy, 


892 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 

n, 


where  he  remained  some  days  in  consequence  of  the  irt 
ness  of  his  two  companions,  and  of  the  rest  he  himself  re- 
quired previous  to  crossing  the  adjoining  desert,  a  jour 
ney  of  fifteen  days.  On  the  13th  of  December,  he  set  out 
for  Kouka;  meeting,  daily,  during  the  first  fortnight 
of  the  way,  an  immense  quantity  of  skeletons,  and 
dead  bodies,  some  of  which  be  found  ^^  with  their  arms 
clasped  round  each  other,  just  as  they  had  expired." 
Alluding  to  these  corpses  in  his  journal,  he  relates, 
'^  Whilst  I  was  dosnng  on  my  horse,  about  noon,  I  was 
suddenly  awakened  by  a  crashing  under  my  feet,  which 
startled  me  excessively.  I  found  that  my  steed  had, 
without  any  sensati(»)  of  shame  or  alarm,  stepped  upon 
the  perfect  skeletons  of  two  human  beings,  cracking 
their  brittle  bones  under  his  feet,  and,  by  one  trip  of 
his  foot,  separating  a  skull  from  the  trunk^  which  rolled 
on  like  a  ball  before  him.  This  event  gave  me  a  sensa- 
tion which  it  took  some  time  to  remove."  On  the  8th 
of  January,  1823,  he  arrived  at  Derkee,  where  he  was 
compelled  to  sanction  the  sending  of  a  marauding  party 
to  capture  some  eamels,  the  chief  part  of  those  who  had 
attended  him  having  died  on  the  road.  Major  Denham 
continued  his  journey,  passing  through  Bilma,  the 
capital  of  the  Tilboos,  Ohuko&ma,  Dibla,  Kasama-foma,, 
Beere-Kashifery,  Lari,  Woodie,  Burwha,  Geudewhat ; 
and,  after  having  been  without  animal  food  for  fifteen 
days  together,  and  narrowly  escaping  the  jaws  of 
alligators,  hys^nas,  and  elephants,  in  the  course  of  his 
travels,  he  arrived  at  Kouka  on  the  17th  of  February. 
"  This,"  says  he,  "  was  to  us  a  mcwnentous  day,  and  it 
seemed  to  be  equally  so  to  our  conductors.  Notwith- 
standing all  the  difficulties  that  had  presented  therQ< 


ADVKNTURi:S    01*"    DRNIIAM    IN   AFRICA. 


393 


selves  at  the  various  stages  of  our  journey,  wo  were  at 
last  Avithin  a  few  short  miles  of  our  destination ;  were 
about  to  become  acquainted  with  a  people  who  had 
never  seen,  or  scarcely  hoard  of,  an  European ;  and  to 
tread  on  ground,  the  knowledge  and  true  situation  of 
which  had  hitherto  been  wholly  unknown."      <■,    - 

On  his  presentation  to  the  Sheikh  of  Bornou,  ho 
soon  gained  his  confidence,  and  was  promised,  by  him, 
all  the  assistance  in  his  power  to  give  him  a  knowledge 
of  the  country  and  its  inhabitants.  After  passing 
about  two  montlis  at  Kouka,  he  joined  a  hostile  expe- 
dition, sent  out  by  the  sheikh,  against  the  Felatahs; 
in  his  way  to  attack  whom,  lie  passed  some  days  at 
Mandara,  the  sultau  of  which  country  joined  the  Bor- 
nouse  troops,  who,  together  with  himself,  after  burning 
two  small  towns,  wore  put  to  flight  and  defeated  by  the 
Felataha,  at  the  siege  of  Musfeia.  The  situation  of 
Major  Denham,  in  his  retreat  from  the  pursuers,  was 
dreadful  in  the  extreme ;  both  himself  and  his  horse 
were  badly  wounded  ;  and,  after  twice  falling  with  the 
latter,  and  fighting  singly  against  three  or  four  assail- 
ants, he  at  length  lay  disarmed  on  the  ground.  "  At 
that  moment,"  he  relates,  "my  hopes  of  life  were  too 
faint  to  deserve  the  name.  I  was  almost  instantly 
surrounded ;  and,  incapable  of  making  the  least  resis- 
tance, was  as  speedily  stripped.  My  pursuers  then 
made  several  thrusts  at  me  with  their  spears,  that 
badly  wounded  my  hands  in  two  places,  and  slightly 
my  body,  just  under  my  ribs,  on  the  right  side  ;  indeed, 
I  saw  nothing  before  me  but  the  same  cruel  death  I 
had  seen  unmercifully  inflicted  on  the  few  who  had 
fallen  into  the  power  of  those  who  now  had  possession 


394 


rEUlLOUS    ADVK.NTUUIW. 


0 


of  mo.  My  eliirt  was  now  absolutely  torn  off  my  hack, 
and  I  was  left  perfectly  naked.  When  my  plunderer.s 
began  to  quarrel  for  the  spoil,  the  idea  of  escape  camo 
like  lightning  across  my  mind  ;  and,  without  a  moment's 
hesitation,  I  crept  under  the  belly  of  the  horso  nearest 
me,  and  started  us  fast  as  my  legs  could  carry  mo  for 
the  thickest  part  of  the  wood:  two  of  the  Fclatahs 
followed,  and  gained  upon  me ;  for  the  prickly  under- 
wood not  only  obstructed  my  passage,  but  toro  my  flesh 
miserably ;  and  tho  delight  with  which  I  saw  a  moun- 
tain-stream gliding  along  at  tho  bottom  of  a  deep 
ravine  cannot  be  imagined.  My  strength  had  almost 
left  mo,  and  I  seized  tho  young  branches  issuing  from 
tho  stump  of  a  largo  tree  which  overhung  the  ravine, 
for  tho  purpose  of  letting  myself  down  into  the  water ; 
when,  under  my  hand,  as  tho  branch  yielded  to  tho 
weight  of  my  body,  a  largo  liffa,  tho  worst  kind  of  ser- 
pent this  country  produces,  rose  from  its  coil,  as  if  in 
the  very  act  of  striking.  I  was  horror-struck,  and  de- 
prived, for  a  moment,  of  all  recollection — the  branch 
slipped  from  my  hand,  and  I  tumbled  headlong  into  the 
water  beneath ;  this  shock,  however,  revived  me ;  and, 
with  three  strokes  of  my  arms,  I  reached  tho  opposite 
bank,  which,  with  diflficulty,  I  climbed  up,  and  then, 
for  the  first  time,  felt  myself  safe  from  my  pursuers." 

After  dangers  and  disasters  almost  as  appalling  as 
those  ju-^t  related.  Major  Denham  returned  to  Kouka, 
where  he  arrived  in  the  beginning  of  May,  in  a  state 
of  extreme  wretchedness  and  despondency.  In  his 
way  back,  he  relates,  that  tho  little  food  he  could  pi'o- 
cure  "was  thrust  out  from  under  Barca  Sana's  (the 
sheikh's  general)  tent,  and  consisted  generally  of  his 


ADVENTU1U:S   OP   DUNHAM    IN   AFMICA. 


395 


ly  back, 

po  camo 
lomont'fl 
1  nearest 
\f  me  for 
Fclatalia 
y  under- 
my  flesh 
a  mouii- 
•  a  deep 
L(l  almost 
ling  from 
le  ravine, 
lie  water ; 
h(l  to  the 
nd  of  scr- 
l,  as  if  in 
k,  and  de- 
[le  branch 
ig  into  the 
me ;  and, 
10  opposite 
and  then, 
ursucrs." 
ppalling  as 
to  Kouka, 
,  in  a  state 
r.     In  his 
could  pro- 
Sana's  (the 
ally  of  his 


leavings:  pride,"  ho  continues,  "was  somctiincs  nearly 
choking  me,  but  hunger  was  the  paramr)unt  feeling;  I 
smothered  the  former,  ate,  and  was  thankful."  "Thus," 
he  observes,  on  terminating  his  account  of  it,  "  ended 
our  most  unsuccessful  expedition ;  it  had,  however, 
injustice  and  oppression  for  its  basis,  and  who  can  re- 
gret its  failure?"  lie,  bowever,  shortly  after  his 
return  to  Kouka,  accompanied,  with  Dr.  Oudney,  a 
second  expedition,  headed  by  the  sheikh  in  person, 
against  the  Mungowy ;  but  that  people  making  some 
concessions,  he  was  not  involved  in  any  hostile  en- 
counter; and  after  visiting  the  Gambarou  river,  and 
collecting  much  curious  information,  (among  other,  that 
the  monkies  abounding  in  that  part  of  the  country,  are 
called  by  the  natives  "  the  enclianted  men,")  he  again 
returned  to  Kouka,  where  he  remained  till  the  termi- 
nation of  the  rainy  season  in  1823.  v  »■  ,  -  •  f  ^ 
In  January,  1824,  he  obtained  permission,  and  an 
escort,  from  the  sheikh,  to  visit  the  Logguu  nation,  a 
country  he  had  for  eleven  months  previously  been 
endeavouring  to  enter.  On  the  2nd  of  February,  ho 
embarked  at  Showy  in  a  canoe,  and  proceeded  down 
the  river  Shary  to  Joggabah,  a  once  inhabited,  but 
then  desolate,  island ;  approaching  it  by  a  wide  piece 
of  water,  which  he  called,  from  the  beauty  of  the  sur- 
rounding scenery,  Bellevue  Reach.  Passing  from 
Lake  Shary,  "  into  that  sea  of  fresh  water,  the  Tchad," 
which  he  named  Lake  Waterloo,  he  veered  round  to 
the  north-east  branch  of  Joggabah,  and  continued  in 
that  direction  till  he  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shary ; 
where,  after  discerning  with  his  telescope  nothing  but 
a  waste  of  waters  before  him,  he  commenced  his  return 


396 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


0 


Un  TCHAD. 


to  Rhowy ;  on  reaching  which,  he  immedia'tely  set  owt 
for  Loggun,  by  way  of  Gulphi,  Willighi,  Affadai,  Alph, 
and  Kussery ;  a  route  seldom  traversed,  and  which  he 
describes  to  be  "  a  continued  succession  of  marshes, 
swamps,  and  stagnant  waters,  abounding  with  useless 
and  rank  vegetation;"  and  where  "flies,  bees,  and 
musquitos,  with  immense  black  toads,  vie  with  each 
other  in  a  display  of  their  peace-destroying  powers." 
On  the  16th  of  February,  he  entered  Kurnuk,  the 
capital  of  Loggun,  by  a  street  "  as  wide  as  Pall  Mall ;" 
but  was  only  allowed  to  remain  a  few  days  in  the  city, 
n  consequence  of  the  approach  of  the  Begharmi, 
against  wliom  the  Sultan  of  Loggun  would  not  under- 
take to  protect  him.  While  in  the  city,  he  was  much 
annoyed  by  the  curiosity  of  the  women,  who  examined 
even  the  pockets  of  his  trowsers ;  "  to  give  them  their 
due,"  he  observes,   "they  are  the  cleverest  and  the 


ely  set  ovl 
idai,  Alph, 
J  which  he 
f  marshes, 
ith  useless 
hoes,  and 
with  each 
g  powers." 
urnuk,  the 
>all  Mall ;" 
in  the  city, 
Begharmi, 
not  under- 
was  much 
0  examined 
them  their 
3st  and  the 


e 


A>  VENTURES   OF   DENIIAM   li;   AFRICA. 


397 


most  immoral  race  I  had  met  with  in  the  hlack 
country." 

After  enduring  many  vicissitudes  and  dangers,  and 
witnessing  at  Angala,  the  last  moments  of  Mr.  Tooke, 
who  had  accompanied  him  in  his  expedition  to  Loggun, 
Major  Denham  returned,  on  the  2nd  of  March,  to 
Kouka,  where  he  was  attacked  with  a  slight  fever ; 
and,  shortly  after,  received  intelligence'  of  the  death 
of  Dr.  Oudney,  at  Murmur.  Notwithstanding,  how- 
ever, the  disheartening  circumstances  attending  his 
former  excursions,  he,  on  his  recovery,  joined  another 
expedition  against  the  Begharmies,  in  the  hope  of 
making  himself  further  acquainted  with  their  country ; 
hut  a  temporary  defeat  of  the  Bornouse,  whom  he 
accompanied,  rendering  it  unsafe  for  him  to  continue 
with  thorn,  he  once  more  returned  to  Kouka. 

Denham  now  returned  to  England,  accompanied  hy 
Captain  Clapperton.  He  was,  soon  j«fterwards,  ap- 
pointed director-general  of  Sierra  Leone,  to  which 
country  he  proceeded.  Denham  died  at  Free  Town, 
in  Sierra  Leone,  on  the  9th  of  June,  1828.         * 


MATITB  n  BABNOC. 


34 


0 
0 


CHARLES  ▼. 


VISIT   OF  MR.  FORD    TO   ST.   YUSTE,   THE 
LAST  RESIDENCE   OF   CHARLES  V. 

R.  RICHARD  FORD,  author  of 
the  Hand  Book  for  Spain,  has 
given  in  that  work  tlie  following 
very  entertaining  account  of  his 
visit  to  the  monastery  of  St. 
Yusto  to  which  the  great  Empe- 
ror Charles  Y.  retired  (when  ho 
abdicated  his  throne  in  favour  of  his  son  Philip  II.) 
and  where  he  ended  his  days.  ^ 

This  celebrated  convent,  the  final  retreat  of  Chai-les  V., 
lies  on  the  south-west  slope  of  the  Sierra  de  Vera,  dis- 
tant seven  leagues  from  riacentia,  and  about  a  seven 
hours'  ])leasint  ride.  Once  at  Placentia,  whetiier  !Mad- 
rid  or  Salamanca  be  your  point,  you  ought  on  no  account 
to  deny  yourself  tltis  excursion  : — 


VISIT    OF   MR.    lOKD   TO   ST.    YUSTE. 


399 


TE,   THE 

:s  V. 

author  of 
Spain,  has 
following 
ount  of  his 

rv   of   St. 

out  Einpe- 
d  (wlien  he 

riiilip  II.) 

ChiivlcsV., 
A^eva,  dis- 
imt  a  seven 
ictlicr  ^lad- 
110  account 


Cross  the  Xerte,  and  ascend  the  steep  Calzoncs, 
thence  through  olives  and  vineyards  to  the  Vera  or 
valley,  Avhich  is  some  nine  leagues  in  extent ;  after  four 
leagues  of  dehesas  y  matos  the  road  ascends  to  the  left 
to   Pasaron,   a   picturesque   old   town   of    Prout-lik 
houses,   toppling   balconies  hanging  over  a  brawling, 
brook.     Observe  a  palace  of  the  Arcos  family.     The 
road  next  clambers  up  a  steep  hill,  amid  fruit-trees  of 
every  kind.     As  we  rode  on  our  cheerful  companiona 
were  groups  of  sunburnt  daughters  of  labour,  whose 
only  dower  was  health  and  cheerfulness,  who  were 
carrying  on  their  heads  in  baskets  the  frugal  dinner  of 
the  vine-dressers.     Springy  and  elastic  was  their  san- 
dalled step,  unfettered  by  shoe  or  stocking,  and  light- 
hearted  their  laugh  and  song,  the  chorus  of  the  sheer 
gaiety  of  youth  full  of  health  and  void  of  care.     These 
pretty  creatures,  although  they  did  not  know  it,  were 
performing  an  opera  ballet  in  action  and  costume  :  how 
gay  their  short  sai/as  of  serges  red,  green  and  yeljow ; 
how  primitive  the  cross  on  their  bosoms,  how  graceful 
the  panuelo  on  their  heads :  thus  they  tripped  wan- 
tonly away  under  the  long-leaved  chcsnuts.     Now  the 
beautiful    Vera  expands,  with  the  yellow  line  of  the 
Badajoz  road  running  across  the  cistus-clad  distance  to 
Miravete :  soon  the  Jeronomite  convent  appears  to  the 
left,  nestling  in  woods  about  half  way  up  the  mountain, 
which  shelters  devotion  from  the  wind.     Below  is  the 
farm  3Iagdalena,  where  in  the  worst  case  the  night 
may  be  passed ;  ascend  to  the  monastery,  keeping  close 
to  a  long  wall.     This  Spanish  Spalatro,  to  which  the 
gout-worn,  empire-sick  Charles  retired  to  barter  crowns 
fur  rosaries  away,  was  founded  in  1404,  on  the  site 


400 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUllES. 


0 


QnEEX  MAET,  WIFR  OP  PHILIP  H. 


where  a  covey  of  fourteen  Gothic  bishops  had  been 
killed  at  one  fell  swoop  by  the  Moors.  Charles  sent 
his  son  Philip  (when  on  his  way  to  England  to  marry 
our  amiable  Mary)  to  inspect  this  place,  which  he  had 
years  before  noted  as  a  nest  for  his  old  age  :  he  himself 
planned,  when  in  Flanders,  the  additional  buildings, 
which  were  erected  by  Antonio  de  Villa  Castin,  and 
they  lie  to  the  warm  south-west  of  the  chapel;  but  on 
the  9th  of  August,  1809,  dies  carhone  notanda,  two 
hundred  of  Soult's  foragers  clambered  up  and  pillaged 


VISIT  OF   MR.   FORD  TO   ST.   YUSTE. 


401 


had  been 
avles  sent 

to  marry 
ch  he  had 
le  himself 

buildings, 

astin,  and 
3I;  but  on 
,anda^  two 

A  pillaged 


and  burnt  the  convent,  leaving  it  a  blackened,  roofless 
ruin.  The  precious  archives  were  then  consumed,  all 
except  one  volume  of  documents,  written  in  1620,  by 
Fray  Luis  de  S*  Maria.  This  the  prior  was  consulting 
about  some  rights  disputed  by  the  Cuacos  peasants,  and 
seeing  the  enemy  threw  it  into  some  bushes.  That 
book  he  lent  us  to  read  ;  now  it  no  doubt  is  lost. 

Here  we  met  also  Fray  Alonzo  Cavallero,  an  aged 
monk,  who  took  the  cowl  October  17,  1778,  and 
remembered  Ponis  and  his  visit.  The  convent  is  entered 
by  the  walnut-tree  under  which  Charles  used  to  sit,  and 
■which  even  then  was  called  El  nogal  grande.  Passing 
to  the  Botiea,  all  the  few  vases  which  escaped  the 
French  were  carried  off  in  1820,  by  one  Morales, 
a  liberal  apothecary,  for  his  own  shop  in  Oarandilla. 
T?he  granite-built  chapel,  from  its  thick  walls,  resisted 
the  fire  of  the  invaders,  thus  saving  the  imperial  quarter 
to  be  finally  gutted  by  the  Constitutionalists.  A  door 
to  the  right  of  the  altar  opened  to  Charles's  room, 
whence  he  came  out  to  attend  divine  service :  his  bed- 
room, where  he  died,  has  a  window  through  which,  when 
all,  he  could  see  the  elevation  of  the  Host.  Here  hung 
the  (Gloria  of  Titian,  which,  in  his  will,  he  directed  to 
be  placed  wherever  his  body  was,  and  which  was  moved 
with  it  to  the  Escorial.  Philip  II.,  however,  sent  a 
copy  to  S"  Yuste  which  was  carried  off  to  Texada  by 
the  patriots,  in  1823  ■:  when  the  monks  returned,  they 
were  too  poor  even  to  pay  for  bringing  it  back.  The 
Ooro  Alto  was  carved  in  a  quaint  tedesque  style  by 
Rodrigo  Aleraan.  In  a  vault  below  the  high  altar  is 
the  rude  chest  in  which  the  Emperor's  body  was  kept 
sixteen  years.,  until  removed  in  1574, 

S4* 


402 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


He  built  only  four  rooms — each,  as  usual,  with  large 
fireplaces,  for  he  was  a  gouty  and  phlegmatic  Fleming. 
From  the  projecting  alcoves  the  views  are  delicious. 
At  the  west  end  is  a  pillared  gallery,  La  Plaza  del 
Palacio  overhanging  a  private  garden ;  and  connected 
with  it  is  a  raised  archway,  el  Puente^  by  which  the 
Emperor  went  down.  Below  is  the  sun-dial,  erected 
for  him  by  Juanuelo  Turriano.  He  was  brought  hero 
by  the  Emperor,  who  was  fond  of  mechanical  experi- 
ments. The  stone  step  by  which  he  mounted  his  horse 
yet  remains,  and  here  he  was  seated  when  he  felt  the 
first  approach  of  death,  as  an  inscription  records.  Ho 
arrived  there,  Wednesday,  February  3,  1557,  at  one 
in  the  afternoon,  and  died  September  21  of  the  next 
year,  of  premature  old  age,  and  dropping  like  the  ripe 
fruit  from  the  shaken  tree.  He  gave  the  convent 
nothing  but  the  honour  of  his  company ;  his  major- 
domo,  Luis  do  Quixada  (who  was  afterwards  killed  by 
the  Moriscos,  nea.^  Grunada,)  having  of  course,  like  a 
true  Spanish  unjusj  steward,  stripped  the  rooms  of 
every  thing  portable.  Philip  II.  came  here  again  in 
1570,  and  remained  two  days.  He  refused  to  sleep  in 
the  room  where  his  father  died.  He,  too,  did  little  for 
the  monks;  and  when  they  begged  of  him,  replied, 
"You  never  could  have  had  my  father  here  a  year 
without  feathering  your  nest."  - 

The  larger  pleasure-grounds  lay  on  the  other  side. 
Nature  has  now  resumed  her  sway,  yet  many  a  flower 
shows  that  once  a  garden  smiled.  A  myrtle  and  T; ox 
edge  leads  to  III  cenador  de  Belem  (Bethelem.)  This 
exquisite  gem  of  a  cinque  cento  summer-house  remained 
perfect,  until  destroyed,  like  Abadia  and  Aranjuez,  by 
Soult's  anti-horticultural  troops. 


VISIT   OF   Mil.   FOIID   TO   ST.   YUSTE. 


403 


th  large 
"leming. 
slicious. 
laza  del 
>nnected 
bich  the 

erected 
rht  here 
1  experi- 
bis  horse 
3  felt  the 
:ds.    He 
,  at  one 
the  next 
}  the  ripe 
I  convent 
is  major- 
killed  by 
se,  like  a 
rooms  of 

again  in 
0  sleep  in 
{ little  for 
replied, 
re  a  year 

ither  side. 
y  a  flower 
e  and  h  »^: 
sm.)  This 
3  remained 
anjuez,  by 


CUARLE3  AND  TUBRIANU  BlIUVRTSt^a  TUB  MON'ES   WITH  I'HEIB  FUrPETS. 

Charles  lived  hero  half  like  a  monk  and  half  like  a 
retired  country  gentleman.  Although  strictly  atten- 
tive to  his  religious  duties,  he  amused  himself  with  his 
flowers,  rides,  mechanical  experiments,  and  his  young 
son,  Don  Juan  of  Austria.  The  ex-Emperor  was  sadly 
plagued  by  the  villagers  of  Cuacos,  who,  then  as  always 
ill-conditioned,  poached  his  trout  in  the  Garganta, 
drove  away  his  milk-cows,  and  throw  stones  at  the 
future  hero  of  Lepanto  for  climbing  up  their  chei'ry- 
trees.  His  was  no  morhid,  unsocial  misanthropy,  but 
a  true  weariness  of  the  world  with  which  he  had  done, 
and  a  wish  to  be  at  rest :  he  sedulously  avoided  all 
allusion  to  politics.  Neither  was  he  in  his  dotage, 
although  enfeehled  in  health  from  gout ;  his  ambition 
and  passions  were  subdued,  but  not  his  relish  for  intel- 
lectual and  innocent  recreations.  He  brought  with 
him  his  old  servants,  who  knew  his  wants  and  ways, 
and  whose  faces  he  knew :  he  had  his  book,  his  ride, 
his   hobby,    experiments,*    and   his   prayers;  ho   had 

*  Ono  of  Charles'  amusements  was  making  collections  of  clocLa 
and  watches,  and  automaton  images,  and  observing  their  different 


404 


TERTLOUS    ADVENTURES. 


0 


friends,  some  to  tell  his  sorrows  to  and  divide  them, 
others  to  impart  his  joys  to  and  double  them ;  he  had 
the  play  and  prattle  of  his  little  boy.  Phlegmatic  and 
melancholy  he  was  by  constitution,  and  from  the  inher- 
ited taint  of  his  mother ;  but  the  story  of  his  having 
had  the  funeral  service  said  over  himself  while  alive 
is  untrue :  no  record  or  tradition  of  the  kind  existed 
among  the  monks.  Philip  II.,  who  feared  his  father 
might  repent  of  his  resignation,  and  wish  again  to 
resume  the  crown,  kept  a  spy  here,  who  daily  reported 
to  Secretary  Vasquez  every  minute  circumstance.  The 
original  letters,  once  in  the  Salesas  at  Madrid,  were 
incorporated  by  Thomas  Gonzalez  in  a  work  on  this 
Jiefi/'cida,  which  unfortunately  is  not  yet  printed.  The 
ruin  commenced  by  the  French  -was  completed  by  the 
Liberals  of  Cuacos,  who,  July  4,  1821,  came  and  stole 
every  thing.  They  kept  horses  in  the  church,  and 
made  the  Emperor's  room  a  place  for  silk-worms. 
E'^cent  sequestrians  have  again  destroyed  what  the 
poor  monks  had  partially  restored,  and  chaos  is  come 
again. 

Never  again  will  it  be  the  lot  of  traveller  to  be  wel- 
comed, like  ourselves,  by  these  worthy  men,  to  whom 
news  and  a  stranger  from  the  real  living  world  was 
a  godsend.  The  day  was  passed  in  sauntering  about 
the  ruined  buildings  and  gardens  with  the  good-natured 
garrulous  brotherhood.  At  nightfall  supper  was  laid 
for  all  the  monks  together  at  a  long  board,  but  the 
jjrior  and  procurador  had  a  small  table  set  apart  in  an 
alcove,  where,  "bidden  to  a  spare  but  cheerful  meal,  I 

mot'ons,  and  surprising  the  monks  ■with  these  performauoes.  In 
this  he  was  assisted  by  an  attendant  named  Turriano. 


) 


5  them, 
he  had 
itic  and 
e  inher- 

having 
ile  alive 

existed 
s  father 
igain  to 
reported 
ce.  The 
•id,  were 

on  this 
ed.  The 
i  by  the 
md  stole 
rch,  and 
k-worms. 
svhat  the 
}  is  come 

o  be  wel- 
to  whom 
rorld  was 
ng  about 
i-natured 
was  laid 
[,  but  the 
part  in  an 
il  meal,  I 

nances.    In 


VISIT   CF   iMU.    rOllD   TO   ST.    YUSTE. 


405 


sat  an  honouied  guest."  As  the  windows  were  throw^ 
wide  open  to  admit  the  coul,  thymo-sccntcd  breeze,  the 
eye  in  the  clear  evening  swept  over  the  boun<llcs3  val- 
ley, and  the  nightingales  sang  sweetly  in  the  neglected 
orange-garden,  to  the  briglit  stars  reflected  like  dia- 
monds in  the  black  tank  below  us.  How  often  had 
Charles  looked  out  on  a  stilly  eve,  on  this  s'li-sanio 
and  unchanged  scene,  where  he  alone  was  now  want- 
ing !  When  supper  was  done,  I  shook  hands  all  round 
with  my  kind  hosts,  and  went  to  bed  in  the  chamber 
where  the  Emperor  breathed  his  last.  All  was  soon 
silent,  and  the  spirit  of  tiie  mighty  dead  ruled  again 
in  his  last  home  ;  but  no  Charles  disturbed  the  deep 
slumber  of  a  weary,  insi;5nificinit  stranger.  Long  ore 
daybreak  next  morning  I  was  nwiikcned  by  a  pa!o  monk, 
and  summoned  to  the  eaily  ma.^s,  which  the  prior  in  his 
forethought  had  ordered.  The  chapel  was  imperfectly 
lighted;  and  the  small  congregation  consisted  ol"  the 
monk,  my  sun-burnt  muleteer,  and  a  stray  beggJir,  who, 
like  myself,  had  been  sheltered  in  the  convent.  When 
the  service  was  concluded,  all  bowed  a  last  farewell  to 
the  altar  on  which  the  dying  glance  of  Charles  had 
been  fixed,  and  departed  in  peace.  The  morning  was 
grey  and  the  mountain  air  keen  ;  nor  was  it  until  the  sun 
had  risen  high  that  the  carol  of  the  light-hearted  maid 
ens  dispelled  the  cowl,  and  relaid  the  ghost  of  Charles 
in  the  dim  pages  cf  history.  *  *■ 


■"<>f 


sin  JOHN  PHASKLiir. 


SUFFERINGS  OF  A  PARTY  ON  FRANKLl^  S 
JOURNEY  TO  THE  VOLAR  SEA. 


^^  F    nil    pocnca    of  intense 
^^^^^  sufUn-ing   undevf^one   by 
^   travellers  those  described 
^fe-   in    tlio    "  Narrative    of 
Franklin's  journey  to  the 
Shores  of  the  Polar  Sea 
in   the  years  1819,  20, 
~  21  and  22,"  are  by  far 
the  severest  we  have  ever 
read. 
While  Lioiitonnnt  Parry  was  exploring  a  passage 


rUANKUlN  S  JufllKKY  TO  illE  l>OLAtt  SKA 


407 


across  tlio  Polar  Sea  towards  the  Pacific,  Lord, 
Bathurst  conceived  it  might  not  only  bo  serviceable  to 
this  intrepid  navigator,  but  desirable  for  the  benefit  of 
geographical  and  hydrographical  science,  to  ascertain 
the  actual  position  of  the  mouth  of  the  Copper  mine 
River  and  the  trending  of  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea 
to  the  eastward  of  it.  With  this  view,  Lieutenant 
(mow  Captain)  Franklin  was  recommended  by  the  Lords 
of  the  Admirality  as  a  proper  person  to  bo  employed 
on  such  a  service ;  they,  at  the  same  time,  nominated 
Dr.  Richardson,  a  naval  surgeon,  well  skilled  in  natural 
history,  Mr.  Hood  and  Mr.  Back,  two  admiralty  mid- 
Vhipmen  (subsequently  promoted  to  the  rank  of  Lieu- 
toniints),  and  two  steady  English  seamen,  to  accompany 
lilm. 

This  little  party  embarked  on  board  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  ship,  Prince  of  Wales,  the  23d  of  May, 
IHIO;  and  reached  Stromness  the  3d  of  June,  where 
four  boatmen  were  engaged  to  assist  their  progress  up 
tlie  rivers  of  America: — after  a  narrow  escape  from 
being  ^vreckcd  on  the  rocky  shores  of  Resolution  island 
beset  with  heavy  ice,  they  arrived  in  safety  at  York 
fiictory  on  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay,  on  the  30th 
of  Anpust.  Here  they  immediately  commenced  pre- 
paratirns  for  their  long  journey ;  anfl  every  possible 
assistance  was  afforded  by  the  governor  and  servants 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  furnished  them 
with  a  boat,  provisions,  stores,  and  ammunition,  sent 
forward  circular  letters  to  all  their  posts,  directing  the 
superintendents  to  supply  all  their  wants,  and  commu- 
cated  frankly  such  information  for  their  guidance,  as 
materially  assisted  them  in  their  future  proceedings. 


408 


PKRUM  fi   ADVr:.VTC'flf>'. 


The  journey  into  the  interior  comnienccd  at  York 
Fort,  where  the  party  embarked  on  tlio  9th  of  So[)- 
tembor,  1819 ;  and  they  arrived  at  Cumberland  House 
on  the  22d  of  October,  the  travelling  distance  by 
water  being  about  six  hundred  and  ninety  miles. 
Late  as  the  season  was.  Captain  Franklin  determined 
not  to  remain  here,  but  to  set  out  on  a  long  and  perilous 
expediiion  of  several  hundred  miles  to  Fort  Chebcy- 
wan,  near  the  western  extremity  of  Athebasca  lake ; 
where,  by  his  presence,  he  hoped  to  prevent  delay  in 
the  necessary  preparations  for  their  ulterior  proceedings. 
With  this  view,  accompanied  by  Lieut.  Back,  on  the 
18th  of  January,  1820,  he  took  leavo  of  Dr.  Ricliardsoii,  * 
and  Mr.  Hood,  who  were  to  bring  up  their  baggage  in 
the  spring;  and  after  a  journey  of  857  miles  in  the 
very  depth  of  winter,  the  thermometer  frequently  at 
40°,  and  sometimes  more  than  50°  below  zero,  arrived 
safely,  on  the  26th  of  ^larch,  at  the  Fort. 

As  soon  as  the  spring  began  to  appear.  Dr.  Richard- 
son and  Mr.  Hood  set  out  to  join  their  companions  who 
had  preceded  them  to  Fort  ChebeyAvan.  It  may  readily 
be  supposed,  that  the  return  of  this  season  is,  in  such 
a  dreary,  chilling  climate,  hailed  with  universal  joy. 
The  symptoms  of  its  approach  are  unequivocal.  About 
the  middle  of  A^ril  the  flights  of  geese,  ducks,  and 
swans  from  the  southward,  indicate  the  breaking  up  of 
the  frost ;  gentle  showers  begin  to  fall ;  the  whole  face 
of  the  country  is  deluged  by  the  melted  snow.  In  a 
few  days  the  upper  grounds  are  dry,  and  teem  with  the 
fragrant  offspring  of  the  new  year.  "  There  can  scarcely 
be  a  higher  gratification,"  says  Captain  Franklin,  "than 
that  which  is  enjoyed  in  this  country,  in  witnessing  the 


framklln'.s  j«"UUnev  to  Tin;  I'OLAit  si;a.      409 


■^■iS=-^^h^*... 


WILD  GSESG. 


rapid  change  which  takes  phicc  in  the  course  of  a  few 
(lays  in  the  spring ;  scarcely  does  the  snow  disappear 
from  the  ground,  before  tiie  trees  arc  clothed  with  thick 
foliage,  the  shrul)S  open  their  leaves,  and  put  forth 
their  variegated  flowers,  and  the  whole  prospect  becomes 
animating."  But  it  also  brings  its  inconveniencics,  the 
first,  and  most  annoying  of  Avhich,  are  the  clouds  of 
huge  full-grown  musquitocs,  which  bursting  forth  at 
once,  incessantly  torment  the  traveller  to  a  degree  un- 
known even  in  the  tropical  regions  of  the  globe. 

The  whole  party,  with  their  Indian  hunters,  having 
assembled  at  Chebeywan,  set  out  on  the  18th  of  July 
for  the  northward,  in  the  hope  that,  before  the  season 
should  expire,  they  might  be  enabled  to  fix  their  winter 
quarters  at  the  mouth  of  the  Copper-mine  River,  and 


410 


jtEllILOUrf   ADVENTURES. 


to  avail  themselves  of  the  earliest  period  of  the  follow- 
ing spring  to  explore  the  coast  of  the  Polar  Sea  to  the 
eastward.  But  so  great  and  so  numerous  were  the 
difficulties  experienced  from  the  scarcity  of  provisions, 
and  from  the  impediments  in  the  navigation  of  the 
numerous  rivers  and  lakes,  on  account  of  the  rapids  of 
the  one  and  the  shallows  of  the  other,  together  with 
the  frequent  portages,  that  their  progress  was  exceed- 
ingly slow  and  tedious ;  and  they  did  not  arrive  at  the 
spot  where  it  was  found  necessary  to  hut  themselves 
for  the  winter,  and  which  was  distant  from  Cheheywan 
about  550  miles,  before  the  20th  of  August.  With 
regard  to  the  interruptions  of  the  portages,  they  became 
more  frequent,  and  the  dragging  of  the  boats  more 
fatiguing,  in  proportion  as  they  advanced  to  the  north- 
ward ;  and  thus  the  sufferings  of  the  people  from  want 
of  sufficient  sustenance  were  greatly  aggravated.  It 
not  unfrequently  happened  that  in  one  day  they  had  to 
load  and  unload  the  canoes,  and  to  transport  them  and 
the  baggage  over  five  or  six  of  these  portages.  We 
cannot,  therefore,  be  surprised  that  men  who,  like  the 
Canadian  Voyagers,  live,  when  at  the  Company's  forts, 
entirely  on  animal  food,  the  daily  allowance  of  which 
is  eight  pounds  to  each  man,  should  be  disheartened, 
and  exhibit  symptoms  of  discontent  and  insubordination, 
when  they  found  themselves  reduced  to  one  scanty 
meal  a  day  of  a  few  ounces  of  fish  or  deer's  flesh; 
and,  on  some  days,  unable  to  procure  any  food  at  all. 
Their  disobedience,  however,  was  only  transitory,  and 
seems  to  have  ceased  with  the  occasion  of  it ;  and  it  is 
due  to  them  to  say  that  their  general  conduct  through- 
out this  perilous  and  fatiguing  expedition  was  highly 


franklin's  joukney  to  the  polar  sea.     411 


3  follo^V- 

iii  to  the 
rere  the 
ovisions, 
I  of  the 
apids  of 
;her  with 
5  exceed- 
ve  at  the 
lemselvea 
lebeywan 
t.    With, 
y  became 
ats  more 
;he  north- 
rom  want 
ated.     It 
ley  had  to 
them  and 

38.  We 
[),  like  the 
ay's  forts, 

of  which 
leartened, 
irdination, 
tie  scanty 
3r's  flesh; 
'ood  at  all. 
dtory,  and 
;  and  it  is 
t  through- 
,yas  highly 


■i! 


praiseworthy.  A  fresh  supply  of  food  had  invariably 
the  effect  of  an  immediate  return  of  their  usual  good 
humour. 

Captain  Franklin,  as  we  before  observed,  had  been 
anxious  to  arrive  at  the  mouth  of  the  Copper-mine 
River  during  the  present  season ;  but  the  small  pools 
being  frozen  over  so  early  as  the  25th  of  August,  when 
the  geese  were  observed  to  be  passing  to  the  southward, 
and  other  unequivocal  symptoms  of  the  approach  of 
winter  beginning  to  manifest  themselves,  ho  found  it 
necessary  to  abandon  the  design.  Indeed  tlie  chief  of 
the  hunters  declared  that  the  attempt  would  be  rash 
nnd  dangerous,  and  that,  as  he  considered  the  lives  of 
all  who  went  on  such  a  journey  would  be  forfeited,  he 
neither  would  go  himself,  nor  permit  his  people  to  ac- 
company them.  They  were,  therefore,  compellea  to 
content  themselves  for  this  season  with  making  an 
excursion  to  the  hea:'  of  the  Copper  mine  River,  in 
Point  Lake,  about  sixty  miles  to  the  northward,  merely 
to  satisfy  themselves  of  its  size  and  position. 

In  the  meantime,  the  Canadians  were  busily  engaged 
in  constructing  a  house  for  their  winter  residence,  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  Fort  Enterprise.  It  was 
situated  on  a  rising  ground  on  the  bank  of  a  river,  and 
near  a  lake,  surrounded  with  numerous  trees  of  consid- 
erable size,  some  of  the  pines  being  from  thirty  to 
forty  feet  high,  and  tAvo  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base. 
The  banks  of  the  river  (to  which  they  gave  the  name 
of  Winter  River)  were  also  well  clothed  with  trees  of 
this  description,  and  enlivened  with  a  profusion  of 
luxuriant  mosses,  lichens  and  shrubby  plants.  The 
lat.  of  Fort  Enterprize  is  64°  28',  long.  113°  6'  W. 


412 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


The  last  station  of  the  North-West  Company  is  Fort 
Providence,  in  lat.  62°  17',  long.  114°  9'  W. 

All  hands  were  now  employed  in  laying  in  a  stock 
of  provisions  for  the  winter,  consisting  principally  of 
rein-deers'  flesh  frozen,  or  dried  partially  by  the  fire 
and  sun,  then  bruised  with  stones  and  kneaded  up  with 
fat  or  suet  into  a  paste,  well  known  in  North  America 
by  the  name  of  pemmiean.  The  rein-deer  in  this 
neighbourhood  were  fortunately  abundant,  being  met 
with  in  herds  from  ten  to  a  hundred ;  and  Captain 
Franklin  says  that,  in  walking  out  one  day,  he  estimated 
the  numbers  seen  by  him  at  not  fewer  than  two  thou- 
sand. Before  these  animals  began  to  migrate  to  the 
southward  in  search  of  a  milder  climate  and  better 
sheltered  pastures,  the  hunters  were  enabled  to  procure 
about  one  hundred  and  eighty,  which  were  converted 
into  dried  meat :  to  this  they  added  about  a  thousand 
white  fish,  from  two  to  three  pounds  each,  and  occa- 
sionally others  of  the  salmon  tribe,  trout,  pike  and  red 
carp.  But  this  stock  of  provision  was  barely  sufficient 
for  the  winter's  co:i3umption  of  the  party,  including  the 
multitude  of  Indians  and  their  families  who  crowded 
to  the  rendezvous  as  soon  as  the  winter  had  set  in. 

Nor  was  this  the  worst.  The  whole  of  their  ammuni- 
tion was  expended,  and  their  packages  of  blankets, 
tobacco,  and  other  articles  of  indispensable  necessity 
had  not  come  up  from  the  southward.  Mr.  Back, 
therefore,  volunteered  to  return  to  Fort  Providence  and, 
if  necessary,  to  Chebeywan,  to  obtain  such  supplies  as 
were  absolutely  necessary,  to  enable  them  to  proceed. 
He  set  out,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Wentzel,  a  clerk  of 
the  North-west  Company,  two  Canadians,  two  Indians 


is  Fort 


a  stock 
jally  of 
the  fire 
up  "with 
A.merica 
in   this 
ing  met 
Captain 
stimated 
wo  thou- 
te  to  the 
,d  better 
•  procure 
onverted 
thousancl 
bud  occa- 
B  and  red 
sufficient 
iding  the 
crowded 
)t  in. 
ammuni- 
blankets, 
necessity 
Ir.   Back, 
lence  and, 
upplies  as 
►  proceed. 
,  clerk  of 
fo  Indians 


■*-'■  '1 


I    ■  ' 


-,"'-•• 


»;,v.  »*•»-■ 


■Jisr 


I    I 
i'.i 

1. 1 


0 


AUGUSTUS,  THE   ESQUIMAUX   INTEllPRETEll. 


franklin's  journey  to  the  polar  sea.      415 


iTER. 


and  their  wives,  on  the  18th  of  October.  This  journey 
on  foot,  in  the  depth  of  Avinter,  as  far  as  Chebeywan 
and  back  to  Fort  Enterprize,  at  which  place  Mr.  Back 
arrived  on  the  17th  of  March,  is  among  the  many 
instances  of  extraordinary  exertion  and  determined 
perseverance  which  this  expedition  afforded.  He  thus 
concludes  his  interesting  Report : — "  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  meeting  my  friends  all  in  good  health,  after  an  ab- 
sence of  nearly  five  months,  during  which  time  I  had 
travelled  one  thousand  one  hundred  and  four  miles  in 
snow-shoes,  and  no  other  covering  at  night,  in  the 
woods,  than  a  blanket  and  deer-skin,  with  the  ther- 
mometer frequently  at — 40°,  and  once  at — 57°  ;  and 
sometimes  passing  two  or  three  days,  with, at  tasting 
food.'  We  may  add  that,  without  this  extraordinary 
exertion  of  Mr.  Back,  the  expedition  would  not  have 
been  able  to  leave  Fort  Enterprize. 

The  party  that  remained  at  this  spot  were  not  much 
better  circumstanced  than  Mr.  Back  had  been,  at  least 
with  regard  to  the  severity  of  the  cold. 

Mr.  Back  brought  with  him  two  Esquimaux  inter- 
preters whom  he  found  at  Fort  Providence,  where  they 
had  arrived  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Chesterfield 
Inlet :  their  names  were  Tattaneewuck  and  Useootoeroch 
— Belly  and  Ear — but  they  were  commonly  called 
Augustus  and  Junius — the  former  could  speak  a  little 
English.  Immediately  on  their  arrival  at  Fort  Enter 
prize,  they  set  about  building  a  snow  house  for  their 
residence,  which  they  maintained  to  be  more  warm  and 
comfortable  than  the  wooden  one  already  erected. 
Captain  Franklin's  description  of  this  singular  fabrio 
recalls  to  our  recollection  the  many  learned  and  laboured 


416 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUUES. 


0 


discussions  and  speculations  on  the  origin  and  invention 
of  the  arch,  and  inclines  us  to  ask,  Where  did  these 
poor  people,  the  outcasts  of  society,  separate  from  the 
civilized  world,  and  confined  to  regions  of  eternal  ice 
and  snow ;  where  did  these  miserable  beings  learn  the 
principles  and  construction,  not  simply  of  the  arch,  but 
of  the  perfect,  dome,  the  most  difficult  of  arches  ? 

"  The  winter  habitations  of  the  Esquimaux,  who  visit 
Churchill,"  says  Captain  Franklin,  "are  built  of  snow, 
and  judging  from  one  constructed  by  Augustus  to-day, 
they  are  very  comfortable  dwellings.  Having  selected 
a  spot  on  the  river,  where  the  snow  was  about  two  feet 
d-'^p,  and  sufficiently  compact,  he  commenced  by  tracing 
out  a  circle  twelve  feet  in  diameter.  The  snow  in  the 
interior  of  the  circle  was  next  divided  with  a  broad 
knife,  having  a  long  handle,  into  fdabs  three  feet  long, 
six  inches  thick,  and  two  feet  deep,  being  the  thickness 
of  the  layer  of  snow.  These  slabs  were  tenacious 
enough  to  admit  of  being  moved  about  without  break- 
ing, or  even  losing  the  sharpness  of  their  angles,  and 
they  had  a  slight  degree  of  curvature,  corresponding 
with  that  of  the  circle  from  which  they  were  cut. 
They  were  piled  upon  each  other  exactly  like  courses 
of  hewn  stone  around  the  circle  which  was  traced  out, 
and  care  was  taken  to  smooth  the  beds  of  the  different 
courses  with  the  knife,  and  to  cut  them  so  as  to  give 
tae  wall  a  slight  inclination  inwards,  by  which  contri- 
vance the  building  acquired  the  properties  of  a  dome. 
The  dome  was  closed  somewhat  suddenly  and  flatly  by 
cutting  the  upper  slabs  in  a  wedge-form,  instead  of  the 
more  rectangular  shape  of  those  below.  The  roof  was 
about  eight  feet  high,  and  the  last  aperture  wns  shut 


1 


iivcntion 
[id  these 
fi'oiu  the 
ernal  ice 
learn  tlie 
arch,  but 

who  visit 
;  of  snow, 
13  to-day, 
y  selected 
t  two  feet 
jy  tracing 
low  in  the 
1  a  broad 
feet  long, 
thickness 
tenacious 
)ut  brealc- 
ngles,  and 
•esponding 
were    cut. 
ke  courses 
;raced  out, 
e  different 
as  to  give 
ich  contri- 
of  a  dome, 
d  flatly  by 
tead  of  the 
le  roof  was 
•e  was  shut 


>,v 


0 

0 


PllANKLtN'S  JOURNEY  TO  TII^.  TOLAR  SEA.       419 


up  by  a  small  conieul  piece.  The  wliolc  was  built  from 
within,  and  each  slab  was  cut  so  that  it  retained  its 
position  without  rc({uiring  support  until  another  was 
placed  beside  it,  the  lightness  of  the  slabs  greatly 
facilitating  the  operation.  When  the  building  was 
covered  in,  a  little  loose  snow  was  throAvn  over  it,  to 
close  up  every  chink,  and  a  low  door  was  cut  through 
the  walls  with  the  knife.  A  bed-place  was  next  formed 
and  neatly  faced  up  Avlth  slabs  of  snow,  Avhich  was  then 
covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  pine  branches,  to  prevent 
them  from  melting  by  the  heat  of  the  body.  At  each 
end  of  the  bed  a  pillar  of  snow  was  erected  to  place  a 
lamp  upon,  and  lastly,  a  porch  Avas  built  before  the 
door,  and  a  piece  of  clear  ice  Avas  placed  in  an  aperture 
cut  in  the  Avail  fur  a  Avindow. 

"  The  purity  of  llie  material  of  Avhich  the  house  Avas 
framed,  the  eie^vince  of  its  construction,  and  the  trans- 
luconcy  of  its  Avail.;,  Avhich  transmitted  a  very  pleasant 
light,  gave  it  an  appearance  far  superioi  to  a  marble 
buildiiiij,  and  one  mii'ht  survey  it  Avith  feelinfi;s  some- 
jvhat  akin  to  those  produced  by  the  contemplation  of  a 
Grecian  temple,  roared  b}"^  Phidias ;  both  are  temples 
of  art,  inimitable  in  their  kinds." 

It  Avas  not  before  the  14th  of  June  that  the  Indians 
considered  the  ioe  to  have  sufficiently  bi-oken  up  in  the 
Copper-mine  llivo;',  to  admit  of  its  being  navigated  by 
canoes.  By  this  tliiio  their  stock  of  provisions  Avas 
prett}'-  nearly  exhausted,  and  it  became  evident  that 
their  future  subsistence  must  depend  on  the  success  of 
the  hunters,  as  they  proceeded  doAvn  the  river :  these 
hunters,  hoAvever,  as  the  time  of  departure  approached, 
began  to  manifest  a  decided  reluctance  to  proceed.     It 


420 


PEKILOUS   ADVKNTfUES. 


0 

0 


pi;i;u. 


appeared,  upon  inc^uii-y,  that  a  i\Ir.  Weeks,  a  clerk  of 
the  North  AVcst  Company,  Avho,  in  his  remote  retreat 
had  nurtured  the  anoiout  and  deep-rooted  jealousies 
■which  prevailed  between  the  tv.'o  Companies  previously 
to  their  recent  union,  liad  })een  tampering  with  them, 
na;-*rcpresenting  the  object  of  the  expedition,  and  the 
character  of  the  officers  employed.  It  was  with  the 
utnio.st  difficulty  the  unfavourable  impressions,  thus 
ci'.'aU'd  Oil  the  minds  of  the  Indians,  were  removed, 
and  even  after  this  had  been  done,  the  dread  of  the 
Es(juiniaux  furnished  another  obstacle  to  their  proceed- 
ing.    At   length,  howevci',   all   difficulties  being  sur- 


I 


FllANKLIN  S  M  VV. 


■[n  Til])  I'Ol.AK  SKA. 


421 


h 


^ 


L  clerk  of 
te  retreat 
jealousies 
previously 
nth  them, 
Q,  and  the 
1  -with  the 
ions,  thus 
removed , 
ead  of  the 
ir  proceed- 
being  sur- 


mounted, the  Aviioli!  pMVty  jv.'occcdcd  to  the  Copper- 
mine River ;  which,  liko  ull  those  Avhich  they  had 
hitherto  navigated,  was  full  of  rocks,  rapids  and  shoals, 
and  in  many  places  bridged  Avitli  largo  masses  of  ice. 
The  grassy  plains  on  cither  side,  however,  al)ounded 
with  game,  particularly  witli  that  singular  little  animal 
known  by  the  name  of  the  musk  ox,  of  which  they 
killed  a  great  number,  but  all  of  them  lean,  and  the 
flesh  by  no  means  palatable. 

The  herds  of  deer  and  musk  oxen  nttract  great 
numbers  of  bears  and  wolves.  The  latter  is  a  gregari- 
ous animal,  and  so  sagacious,  as  rarely  to  be  caught  in 
any  kind  of  trap.  Inferior  in  speed  to  the  moose  and 
rein-deer,  these  creatures  are  snid  to  have  recourse  to 
a  stratagem  which  seldom  fails  to  succeed,  in  places 
where  extensive  plains  are  bounded  by  precipitous  cliffs. 
The  party  had  proof  of  this  in  more  places  than  one. 

"  Whilst  the  deer  are  quietly  grazing,  the  wolves 
assemble  in  great  numbers,  and,  forming  a  crescent, 
creep  slowly  towards  the  herd  so  as  not  to  alarm  them 
much  at  first,  but  when  they  perceive  that  they  have 
fairly  hemmed  in  the  unsuspecting  creatures,  and  cut 
off  their  retreat  across  the  plain,  they  move  more 
quickly,  and  with  hideous  yells  terrify  their  prey  and 
urge  them  to  flight  by  the  only  open  way,  which  is  that 
towards  the  precipice ;  appearing  to  know,  that  when 
the  herd  is  once  at  full  speed,  it  is  easily  driven  over 
the  clifi^,  the  rearmost  urging  on  those  that  arc  before. 
The  wolves  then  descend  at  their  leisure,  and  feast  on 
the  mangled  carcasses." 

This  stratagem  was  attempted  on  Dr.  Richardson, 
musing  one  cveninir,  on  the  summit  of  a 


when  sitting 


)G 


0 


I 


o 

M 
to 
P 


FllANKLLS'rf   JOUUNEY  TO  THE   POLXR  SEA.     423 


WOLF. 


a  precipice,  overlooking  the  Copper-mine  river.  Hear- 
ing an  indistinct  noise  beliind  him,  he  looked  round,  and 
perceived  nine  white  wolves  advancing  towards  him  in  a 
crescent,  evidently  with  the  intention  of  driving  him 
down  the  steep ;  but  on  his  rising  and  walking  towards 
them,  they  readily  made  an  opening  and  let  him  pass : 
a  poor  deer,  which  was  hemmed  in  at  the  same  time, 
less  bold  or  less  fortunate,  was  shortly  afterwards 
driven  over  the  precipice. 

Captain  Franklin's  original  intention  was  tu  return 
(if  he  found  it  necessary  to  return  at  all)  in  as  direct  a 
line  as  the  winding  of  the  coast  would  ad>tiit,  to  the 
raouth  of  Copper-mine  River,  and  thence  through  the 
line  of  woods  extending  along  the  Great  Bear  and  Mar- 
tin Lakes  as  far  as  Slave  Lake ;  but  their  scanty  stock 
of  provisions  having  been  exhausted  before  they  reached 
the  mouth  of  Hood's  River,  and  the  coast  holding  out 


424 


PERILOUS  advlmltj:?? 


0 


little  hope  of  an  adequate  supply  at  this  advanced 
period  of  the  season,  he  determined  on  proceeding  up 
this  latter  river  as  far  as  it  was  navigable,  and  then, 
striking  across  the  barren  grounds,  to  make  directly 
for  their  late  winter-quarters  at  Fort  Enterprize.  Their 
progress  however  was  very  soon  stopped  by  the  whole 
river  tumbling  over  a  ledge  of  rock  in  a  magnificent 
cascade  of  250  feet  in  height,  on  the  other  side  of  which 
it  was  found  to  be  too  rapid  and  too  full  of  shallows  for 
the  canoes  to  make  any  way.  It  became  necessary 
therefore  to  prepare  for  a  journey  on  foot ;  and  the  first 
step  was  that  of  converting  the  canoes  into  two  of 
smaller  dimensions,  ^  enable  them  to  cross  the  lakes 
and  rivers  with  which  they  had  reason  to  believe  this 
portion  of  the  continent  was  much  intersected.  Every 
part  of  the  baggage  that  could  be  dispensed  with  was 
left  on  the  spot,  and  two  days  provision  of  fresh  meat 
(all  that  could  be  carried  in  addition  to  the  canoes)  put 
up  with  the  rest.  ;    r    ,^f^^ 

At  the  end  of  two  days,  the  course  of  the  river 
turned  so  much  out  of  their  direct  route  that  they  were 
obliged  to  quit  its  banks  altogether,  and  proceed  in  a 
straight  line  towards  Point  Lake,  whose  distance  was 
estimated  at  140  miles.  On  the  5th  of  September, 
three  days  only  after  leaving  the  river,  the  party  was 
surprised  by  the  unusual  and  unexpected  appearance 
of  winter,  in  a  heavy  fall  of  snow.  From  this  moment 
till  the  26th  of  the  month,  three  tedious  weeks,  they 
had  to  struggle  against  cold  and  boisterous  weather ;  to 
walk  through  snow  sometimes  two  feet  deep,  over  a 
country  which  scarcely  produced  a  shrub  for  fuel  above 
six  inches  high  ;  and  to  guess  their  way  across  an  un- 


i 


nUNKLIN  s  jour..\ 


T  'J    'i  1 


V.    I'uLAll    SEA.      425 


known  land,  unassisted  by  celestial  observations  (the 
sun  being  constantly  hid  except  on  two  occasions :)  and, 
to  add  to  their  misery  they  had  before  them  the  appall- 
mg  sight  of  musk  oxen,  deer,  and  every  ether  animal, 
and  even  the  water  fowl,  (alarmed  at  the  snow,)  hurry 
ing  to  the  southward  with  the  utmost  speed.  In  this 
journey  of  twenty-one  days,  all  the  fresh  meat  which 
they  could  procure  amounted  on]y  to  five  days'  con 
sumption ;  the  sole  resource  for  the  rest  of  the  time 
being  the  tripe  de  roche,  a  species  of  lichen  which 
grows  on  the  rocks :  even  this  weed,  unpalatable  as  it 
was,  could  not  always  be  found,  so  that  one  scanty' 
meal  a  day  was  sometimes  all  that  could  be  afforc'.ed, 
and  several  days  were  passed  without  eating  at  all. 

Tlie  labours  of  the  party  in  dragging  their  burdens 
and  themselves  through  the  snow,  did  not  end  with  the 
day.  Though  they  had  no  food  to  prepare,  it-  was 
absolutely  necessary  to  have  some  little  fire  to  thaw 
their  frozen  shoes  at  night ;  and  it  was  no  easy  task  to 
find,  and  dig  from  under  ♦he  snow,  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  stunted  bushes  for  this  purpose.  The  fatigue  and 
want  of  food  had  a  very  sensible  effect  on  the  strength 
and  spirits  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  both  of  which 
were  painfully  noticed  to  be  sinking  very  rapidly ;  yet, 
encouraged  by  the  officers,  the^r  endured,  for  a  time, 
their  miseries  with  as  much  patience  as  could  be  ex 
pected.  At  length,  however,  on  finding  the  line  of 
their  route  interrupted  by  frequent  lakes,  which  re- 
quired them  to  make  circuitous  journeys,  and  seeing  no 
hope  of  speedily  reaching  their  destined  point,  they 
began  to  despair  of  their  safety,  and  becoming  alike 
indifferent  to  promises  or  throats,  seemed  to  consider 


426 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUllES. 


0 


themselves  as  liberated  from  all  control.  To  add  to 
the  misery  which  stared  them  in  the  face,  one  of  the 
canoes  was  rendered  useless  by  an  accident,  and  soon 
after,  through  the  inattention  and  insubordination  of 
ome  of  the  party,  the  other  was  also  dashed  to  pieces, 
though  those  who  carried  it  knew,  from  the  course  of 
the  Copper-mine  River,  that  it  would  be  essentially 
necessary  to  enable  them  to  cross  it.  -    •'  "  '    ' 

On  the  26th  of  September  the  whole  party  arrived 
on  the  banks  of  this  river ;  and  having  killed  five  small 
deer,  began  to  congratulate  themselves  on  their  good 
fyrtune  in  having  procured  as  much  fresh  meat  as,  with 
due  care,  would  serve  them  till  their  arrival  at  Fort 
Enterprize.  The  weather  too  had  become  mild,  and 
the  Canadians  considered  their  misfortunes  at  an  end ; 
but,  alas  !  they  had  not  yet  begun.  In  the  midst  of 
their  joy  they  forgot  that,  in  their  madness,  they  had 
deprived  themselves  of  the  only  means  of  crossing  the 
river  which  lay  between  them  and  their  place  of  desti- 
nation. The  shores  of  Point  Lake  were  searched  in 
vain  for  pines  to  make  a  raft.  The  next  expedient  was 
to  collect  faggots  of  dried  willows,  and  with  those  to 
frame  a  sort  of  float ;  but  this  was  found  an  unmanage- 
able machine  in  a  stream  without  the  assistance  of  oars 
or  poles.  In  short,  eight  whole  days  mostly  of  fine 
weather  (and  the  only  fine  weather  they  had,)  were 
consumed  in  devising  means  for  crossing  the  Copper 
mine  River. 

In  this  hopeless  condition,  with  certain  starvation 
staring  them  in  the  face,  Dr.  Richardson,  actuated  by 
the  noble  desire  of  making  a  last  effort  for  the  safety 
of  the  party,  undertook  the  hazardous  enterprise  of 


franklin's  journey  to  the  polar  sea.    427 


add  to 

of  the 
id  soon 
ition  of 

pieces, 
lurse  of 
entially 

arrived 
ve  small 
nv  good 
as,  Avitli 
at  Fort 
lild,  and 
an  end ; 
midst  of 
they  had 
ssing  the 
of  desti- 
rched  in 
iont  was 
those  to 
imanage- 
le  of  oars 
of  fine 
id,)  were 
!  Copper 

tarvation 
uated  by 
he  safety 
rprise  of 


swimming  across  the  stream  (about  130  yards)  with  a 
line  attached  to  his  body ;  at  a  time  when  the  mercury 
in  the  thermometer  stood,  in  the  air  below  the  freezing 
point,  and  in  the  water  at  38°.  He  succeeded  in 
reaching  very  nearly  the  opposite  bank  when,  benumbed 
with  cold,  he  lost  the  power  of  moving  his  limbs,  and 
was  observed  by  his  anxious  companions  to  disappear 
beneath  the  surface.  It  may  easily  be  imagined  what 
their  feelings  were  at  .this  moment.  They  eagerly 
dragged  him  back  by  the  line,  and  drew  him  out  of  the 
water  with  little  or  no  hope  of  restoring  animation. 
By  wray^'ing  the  body  in  blankets,  however,  rubbing 
it  and  li^  i-  before  a  fire,  he  was  at  length  restored 
to  life,  0.  ,  might  be  supposed,  remained  for  some 
time  in  a  very  enfeebled  state. 

No  other  person  of  the  party  could  be  found  to  repeat 
the  experiment ;  but  a  kind  of  basket  was  at  length 
constructed  which,  when  covered  over  with  a  few  frag- 
ments of  canvass  they  had  luckily  preserved,  it  was 
hoped  might  enable  them  to  pass  the  river  ;  but  it  was 
capable  only  of  holding  one  person.  In  this  basket 
Percy  St.  Germain,  one  of  the  ii-terpreters,  first  volun- 
teered to  paddle  over,  carrying  with  him  a  line,  and 
happily  he  succeeded ;  it  was  then  drawn  back,  and  a 
second  crossed,  and  so  on  until  the  whole  party  had 
crossed  over  without  any  serious  accident,  though  their 
frail  vessel  was  filled  with  water  at  every  traverse,  and 
generally  sunk  before  it  reached  the  shore. 

It  was  noAV  the  4th  of  October,  and  they  were  within 
forty  miles  of  Fort  Enterprize ;  but  the  weather  had  again 
resumed  its  severity,  t]ie  ground  was  covered  with  snow. 


the  last  morsel  of  their  food  was  expended,  and  the  whole 


428 


ri;  r. 1 1.0  u  3  a jj  \' i:;^;  t  u  iies. 


0 

0 


K    i 


DR.  RICHARDSON. 


party  miserably  reduced  by  their  recent  scanty  fare, 
and  their  exertions  in  crossing  the  river.  Under  these 
circumstances  Captain  Fnxnklin  deemed  it  expedient 
to  push  forward  Mr.  Back  v.'ith  three  of  the  voyageurs 
in  search  of  the  Indians,  who,  it  "was  hoped,  wouhl  be 
found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Fort  Entci'prize.  Tlic 
following  day  the  remainder  mo^cd  forwards,  and  pro- 
cured a  meal  of  tripe  de  rocho,  which  produced,  how- 
ever, such  distressing  complaintH  on  some  of  the  party, 
and  reduced  them  to  such  a  Bt&te  of  weakness,  as  to 
oblige  them  to  leave  every  thing  except  their  personal 
baggage ;  and  oven  with  this  two  of  the  people  dropped 
behind,  about  the  middle  of  the  stcond  day's  march, 
utterly  unable  to  proceed.  Dr.  llicharJson,  weak  as 
he  was  from  his  late  exertion,  went  back  in  fiearch  of 


franklin's   JOUllXEY    TU   THE    POLAU    SEA.      429 


mty  fare, 
ider  these 
expedient 
voyageurs 
,  would  be 
•ize.     The 
,  and  pro- 
iced,  liow- 
thc  party, 
less,  as  to 
r  personal 
le  dropped 
fa  march, 
i,  weak  as 
I  search  of 


thrsc  tAvo  unfortunate  men.  lie  fuund  one  of  them,  at 
the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  lying  exhausted  in 
the  snow,  talking  incoherently,  and  evidently  in  a 
dying  state  ;  but  of  the  other  he  could  discover  no  trace. 
On  returning  with  this  information,  a  halt  was  made,  a 
fire  kindled  with  a  few  stunted  willows,  and  every  argu- 
ment used  to  induce  the  ablest  of  the  party  to  endea- 
vour to  bring  forward  the  poor  man  Avho  had  fallen, 
and  renew  the  search  for  the  other ;  but  they  all 
declared  their  utter  inability ;  and,  revolting  as  it  was 
felt  to  humanity,  both  were  of  necessity  abandoned  to 
their  f^ite.  -  ,<•     .f.    -^-u^m-'    .         . 

As  there  was  every  reason  to  fear  that  others  of  the 
party  would  speedily  sink  under  the  combined  pressure 
of  famine,  fatigue,  and  inclement  weather,  and  as  those 
who  were  strongest  had  renewed  their  threats  of  throAV- 
ing  down  their  loads,  and  pushing  with  their  utmost 
speed  for  Fort  Enterprize,  though  they  knew  not  a  foot 
of  the  way.  Dr.  llichardson  and  Mr.  Hood  generously 
proposed  to  halt  at  the  first  place  that  offered  a  supply 
of  fire-wood,  and,  with  the  weak  and  worn-down  of  the 
party,  to  remain  there  till  assistance  should  be  sent  to 
them  from  the  Fort.  To  this  arrangement  Captain 
Franklin  reluctantly  consented;  but  as  he  had  every 
reason  to  hope  that  he  should  find  a  depot  of  provisions 
at  Fort  Enterpi'ize,  and  a  band  of  Indians  in  the  neigh 
bourhood,  according  to  the  arrangement  made  with  Mr. 
Wentzel,  he  saw  no  other  means  of  safety.  The 
English  seainan,  John  Hepburn,  whoso  willing  and 
attentive  conduct  on  all  occasions  appears  to  be  above 
all  praise,  volunteered  to  remain  behind. 

*' Their  tent,"  says  Captain  Franklin,  "being  se- 


430 


I'KUILOUri   ADVENTURES. 


0 


curely  pitched,  a  few  -willo-ws  were  collected,  and  the 
ammxmition  and  all  other  articles  deposited,  except 
each  man's  clothing,  one  tent,  a  sufficiency  of  ammuni- 
tion for  the  journey,  and  the  officer's  journals.  I  had 
only  one  blanket,  which  was  carried  for  me,  and  two 
pair  of  shoes.  The  offer  was  now  made  for  any  of  the 
men,  who  felt  themselves  too  weak  to  proceed,  to 
remain  witli  the  officei'S,  but  none  of  them  accepted  it. 
Michel  alone  felt  some  inclination  to  do  so.  After  wo 
had  united  in  thanksgiving  and  prayers  to  Almighty 
God,  I  separated  from  my  companions,  deeply  afflicted 
that  a  train  of  melancholy  circumstances  should  have 
demanded  of  nie  the  severe  trial  of  parting  from  friends 
in  such  a  condition,  who  had  become  endeared  to  mo 
by  their  constant  kindness  and  co-operation,  and  a  par- 
ticipation of  numerous  sufferings.  This  trial  I  could 
not  have  been  induced  tc  undergo,  but  for  the  reasons 
they  had  so  strongly  urged  the  day  before,  to  which  my 
own  judgment  assented,  and  for  the  sanguine  hope  I 
felt  of  either  finding  a  supply  of  provisions  at  Fort 
Enterprize,  or  meeting  the  Indians  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  that  place,  according  to  my  arrangements 
with  Mr.  AVcntzel  and  Akaitcho.  Previously  to  our 
starting,  Peltier  and  Benoit  repeated  their  promises,  to 
return  to  them  with  provisions,  if  any  should  be  found 
at  the  house,  or  to  guide  the  Indians  to  them,  if  any 
were  met." 

The  parting  took  place  on  the  7th  October,  at  the 
distance  of  about  twenty-four  miles  from  Fort  Enter- 
prize ;  the  party  who  proceeded  with  Captain  Franklin 
consisted  of  eight  persons  besides  himself,  of  whom  two, 
feeling  themselves  unable  to  proceed,  left  him  on  the 


\ 


rilANlvl.IN  S  JOUllNKV  TO  THE  POLAU  SEA. 


431 


and  the 
,  except 
[immuni- 
.     I  had 
and  two 
ly  of  the 
ceed,   to 
leptcd  it. 
After  wo 
Umighty 
'  aillicted 
uld  have 
m  friends 
ed  to  me 
nd  a  p  ar- 
il I  could 
e  reasons 
kvhich  ray 
le  hope  I 

at  Fort 
mmediate 
ngenionts 
y  to  our 
omiscs,  to 

be  found 
m,  if  any 

or,  at  the 
>rt  Enter- 
Fraiiklin 
vhom  two, 
im  on  the 


\ 


following  day  to  return  to  Dr.  Richardson  ;  the  next 
day  a  third  fainted ;  and  a  fourth,  unable  to  go  on  was 
sent  back  ; — but  one  of  them  only  arrived,  (and  arrived 
to  add  to  their  misery— it  was  Michol  the  Iroquois  ;) 
the  other  tlu'co  were  no  more  hea.a  of.  With  the 
remaining  four  Captain  Franklin  reached  the  fort  on 
the  evening  of  the  11th,  in  a  state  of  complete  exhaus- 
tion, having  tasted  no  food  for  five  days,  excepting  a 
single  meal  of  tripe  de  roche.  This  was  not  the  worst; 
to  their  utter  sorrow  and  dismay,  and  as  a  fatal  blow  to 
every  hope  by  which  they  had  been  animated,  they 
found  the  place  desolate — no  provisions,  no  Mr.  Back, 
no  Mr.  Wentzel,  nor  any  letter  from  him  to  point  out 
where  the  Indians  were  !  not  a  trace  of  any  living  ani- 
mal, and  the  ground  covered  with  a  greater  depth  of 
snow  than  it  had  been  in  the  month  of  December  the 
preceding  year. 

Recovered  from  the  first  shock  of  so  dreadful  a  dis- 
appointment, a  note  was  observed  in  the  hand-writing 
of  Mr.  Back,  stating  that  he  had  reached  the  house  on 
the  9th,  and  that  he  had  gone  on  in  search  of  the 
Indians.  Four  days  after  this  a  messei  ger  from  him 
brought  the  exhausted  party  the  woful  intelligence  that 
his  search  had  been  unsuccessful.  Solicitous  for  the 
fate  which  must  inevitably  await  Dr.  Richardson  and 
his  party  ;  unable  to  stir  himself,  from  debility,  and  the 
only  hunter  he  had  with  him  falling  sick.  Captain 
Franklin's  situation  may  more  easily  be  conceived  than 
expressed ;  he  rallied  his  spirits,  however,  and  after 
collecting  some  old  shoes,  scraps  of  leather  and  skins 
with  the  hair  singed  off,  their  only  food  after  reaching 
tho  house,  he  set  out,  with  two  of  the  Canadians,  in 


432 


pi;!i!i,ii!  ,    Ain  ;:Niri!H?!. 


0 
0 


quest  of  the  Iiuli;;n,'^,  hut  snoii  iuiiiid  liini.seU"  utterly 
unable  to  proceed,  and  votunied  to  the  house  of  misery 
ftiid  desolation  the  following  day.  Hopeless,  however, 
as  in  every  way,  his  situation  now  appeared  to  be,  this 
g:\llant  officer  never  once  uttered  a  murmur,  nor  gave 
himself  up  to  desi)air.  He  dispatched  two  of  the  strong- 
est to  endeavour  to  find  out  the  Indians,  and  inform 
them  of  their  dreadful  situation ;  and  kept  the  other 
three,  who  were  reduced  to  the  last  extremity,  with 
nimself. 

Eighteen  days  were  passed  in  this  miserable  condi- 
tion, with  no  other  food  than  the  bones  and  skins'  of  the 
deer  which  had  been  consumed  the  preceding  winter 
boiled  down  into  a  kind  of  soup ;  wdien,  on  the  2i)th 
October,  Dr.  Richardson  and  John  Hepburn  made  their 
appearance,  but  without  the  rest  of  the  party.       ..    ■ 

"  We  were  all  shocked,"  says  Captain  Franklin,"  on 
beholding  the  emaciated  countenances  of  the  Doctor 
and  Hepburn,  as  they  strongly  evidenced  their  extreme 
debilitated  state.  The  alteration  in  our  appearance 
Avas  equally  distressing  to  them,  for  since  the  swellings 
h;id  subsided  we  were  little  more  than  skin  and  bono. 
T!u>  Doctor  particularly  remarked  the  se})ulcii:al  tone 
of  our  voices,  which  he  requested  us  to  make  more 
clui'iful  if  possible,  unconscious  that  his  own  partook 
of  t  lie  same  key.  ;     •"         .    ,. 

The  nielancholy  talc  of  what  had  befallen  thorn  is 
v.'cll  and  feelingly  told  by  Dr.  llichardson. 

it  appears  that,  on  the  first  two  d:>ys,  they  liad 
nothing  '..i.atever  to  eat;  that  on  th-j  evening  of  the 
third  day,  Michel,  the  only  surviving  man  of  the  four 
whom  Captain  Franklin  had  sent  ba«k,  arrived  with  a 


PRANKhixH  :"*.  JOURNEY  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


433 


'  utterly 
f  iiusevy 
bo^Yovcv, 
)  be,  this 
lor  gave 
c  stroiig- 
(l  inform 
the  otlier 
litv,  >vitli 

blc  condi- 
Lins  of  the 
ng  -svintcr 
the  29th 
;iiadc  their 

r 

uklin,"  on 
he  Doctor 
ir  extreme 
ippcavance 
c  s\Ycnings 
and  bone. 
Icural  tone 
inahe  more 
wn  partook 

en  them  is 

5,  they  had 
ning  of  the 
of  the  four 

rived  with  a 


\ 


hare  and  a  partridge,  which  enabled  them  to  break 
their  long  fast.  Another  day  passed  without  eating ; 
Mr.  Hood  very  weak  and  unwell.  On  the  11th,  Michel 
brought  them  part  of  what  he  called  a  wolf,  which  he 
said  had  been  killed  by  a  stroke  of  a  deer's  horn 
"We  implicitly  believed  this  story  then,"  says  Dr. 
Richardson,  "  but  afterwards  became  convinced,  from 
circumstances,  the  detail  of  which  may  be  spared,  that 
it  must  have  been  a  portion  of  the  body  of  Belanger, 
or  Perrault,"  two  of  the  unfortunate  men  whom  Cap- 
tain Franklin  had  sent  back,  and  one  or  both  of  whom 
it  was  strongly  suspected  had  fallen  by  the  hands  of  the 
Iroquois.  This  man's  bad  conduct  since  his  return 
grew  daily  worse;  he  absented  himself  from  the  party; 
refused  either  to  hunt  or  to  fetch  wood ;  and  frequently 
threatened  to  leave  them.  Poor  Hood  was  now  sinking 
last ;  he  was  unable  to  eat  the  tripe  do  roche  (and  they 
had  nothing  else,)  on  account  of  the  constant  griping  it 
produced. 

"  At  this  period  we  avoided  as  much  as  possible  con- 
versing upon  the  hopelessness  of  our  situation,  and 
generally  endeavoured  to  lead  the  conversation  towards 
our  future  prospects  in  life.  The  fact  is  that  with  the 
decay  of  our  strength  our  minds  decayed,  and  we  were 
no  longer  able  to  bear  the  contemplation  of  the  horrors 
that  surrounded  us.  Each  of  us,  if  I  may  be  allowed 
to  judge  from  my  own  case,  excused  himself  from  so 
doing  by  a  desire  of  not  shocking  the  feelings  of  the 
others,  for  we  were  sensible  of  one  another's  weakness 
of  intellect,  though  blind  to  our  own.  Yet  we  were 
calm  and  resigned  to  our  fate,  not  a  murmur  escaped 
■      '  37  " 


434 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


us,  and  "we  were  punctual  and  fervent  in  our  addresses 
to  the  Supreme  Being." 

Never  certainly  were  the  blessings  of  religion  more 
strongly  felt  than  in  the  case  of  these  excellent  men, 
when  to  all  human  appearance  their  case  was  utterly 
hopeless ;  yet  nothing  like  despondency,  not  a  murmur 
ever  escaped  from  their  lips. 

"  Through  the  extreme  kindness  and  forethought  of  a 
lady,  the  party,  previous  to  leaving  London,  had  been 
furnished  with  a  small  collection  of  religious  books,  of 
which  we  still  retained  two  or  three  of  the  most  port- 
able, and  they  proved  of  incalculable  benefit  to  us.  We 
read  portions  of  them  to  each  other  as  we  lay  in  bed,  in 
addition  to  the  morning  and  evening  service,  and  found 
that  they  inspired  us  on  each  perusal  with  so  strong  a 
sense  of  the  omnipresence  of  a  beneficent  God,  that  our 
situation,  even  in  these  wilds,  appeared  no  longjr  desti- 
tute ;  and  we  conversed,  not  only  with  calmness,  but 
with  cheerfulness,  detailing  with  unrestrained  confidence 
the  past  events  of  our  lives,  and  dwelling  with  hope  on 
our  future  prospects.  Had  my  poor  friend  (Mr.  Hood) 
been  spared  to  revisit  his  native  land,  I  should  look 
back  to  this  period  with  unalloyed  delight." 

Five  days  more  passed  on  without  any  food  except  a 
little  tripe  de  roche  collected  by  Hepburn,  the  Iroquois 
continuing  sulky,  and  though  strongest  of  the  party, 
refusing  to  contribute  to  its  relief ;  but  it  was  strongly 
suspected  he  had  a  hidden  supply  of  meat  for  his  own 
use.  Seeing  the  determined  obstinacy  and  refractory 
spirit  of  this  man,  Dr.  Richardson  had  told  him,  that 
if  no  relief  came  from  Fort  Enterprizc  before  the  20th, 
Hepburn  and  himself  should  be  dispatched  thither  with 


I 


dresses 

a  more 

it  men, 

utterly 

murmur 


ght  of  a 
id  been 
ooks,  of 
)St  port- 
US.    Wo 
[1  bed,  in 
id  found 
strong  a 
that  our 
Tjr  desti- 
,ness,  but 
onfidcncc 
1  hope  on 
[r.  Hood) 
ould  look 

1  except  a 
a  Iroquois 
the  party, 
s  strongly 
or  his  own 
refractory 
him,  that 
B  the  20th, 
aither  with 


LIEUTENANT,   NOW   CAPTAIN  BACK. 


0 


franklin's  J0UKM:V   to  TIIF   I'ULAR  8EA.     437 


Lll.iri   SANT  II  ■')!). 


a  compass,  by  the  divccti  ri  of  Avliich  tlicy  might  bf.  ena- 
bled to  find  the  house.  On  tlint  '  oiv  diiv,  however,  vs 
Hepburn  wns  cutting  wood  ncnr  the  tent,  and  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson was  collecting  trij,e  de  roclu^,  the  nui^cveant 
assassinated  Mr.  Hood  Vihlle  hiilting  over  tlic  fire  in  tlio 
last  stage  of  disease  and  <lel)i!it  v.  The  ball  entered  Uio 
back  part  of  his  head  and  set  i\\Q  to  his  nigli'/'a'i. 
Hepburn  had  heard  them  conversing  in  an  angry  (one, 
and  immediately  after,  llie  report  of  a  gvi  ;  and  on 
looking  towards  the  spot,  observed  Michel  rise  from 
behind  the  spot  where  ^Nlr.  Hood  h.id  oeen  sitting,  and 
dart  into  the  tent.  It  wa--  at  once  clear,  from  the  great 
length  of  the  gun  which  had  ])ecn  discharged,  that  such 
a  wound  could  only  have  been  inflicted  by  a  second 
person  ;  and  if  any  doubt  could  have  existed  as  to  the 
murderer,  MicheVti  '^wn  conduct  would  at  once  have 


438 


rini  ILO  U S   ADVENT  URES. 


0 


I 


;S 


removed  it.  From  tliis  time  he  -would  never  suffer  tho 
two  remaining  of  the  p.irty  to  be  together  for  a  mo- 
ment ;  he  was  constantly  asking  if  they  suspected  him 
of  the  murder  ?  sometimes  he  made  use  of  threatening 
language  ;  at  other  times  muttering  to  himself,  and 
throwing  out  obscure  hints  of  freeing  himself  from  all 
restraint.  In  short,  as  they  proceeded  on  their  disma 
journey  to  join  their  companions  at  Fort  Enterprize, 
his  conduct  became  so  violent  and  outrageous,  as  to 
convince  both  the  Doctor  and  Hepburn  that  he  Mould 
attempt  to  destroy  them  the  first  opportunity  that 
offered.  His  strength  was  superior  to  theirs  united, 
and  he  had,  besides  his  gun,  two  pistols,  an  Indian 
bayonet,  and  a  knife.  On  ccming  to  a  rock,  he,  for 
the  first  time  left  them  together,  saying  he  would  stop 
to  gather  some  t7'ipe  de  roche,  and  desired  them  to  go 
on.  Hepburn  now  mentioned  certain  circumstances, 
which  satisfied  Dr.  Richardson  that  there  was  no  safety 
for  them  but  in  his  death,  and  lie  offered  to  be  the 
instrument  of  it.  "I  determined,  however,"  says  Dr. 
Richardson,  "  as  I  was  thoroiiglily  convinced  of  the 
nccc>-;riity  of  ^:ufh  ii  ilveadful  act,  to  take  the  whole 
responsibility  upon  raj'sclf;  and  immediately  upon 
Michel's  coming  up,  I  put  an  end  to  his  life  by  shooting 
him  through  the  head  with  a  pistol :  had  my  own  life 
alone,"  he  continues,  "been  threatened,  I  would  not 
have  purchased  it  by  such  a  measure ;  but  I  considered 
myself  as  intrusted  also  with  tho  protection  of  Hep- 
burn's, a  man,  who,  by  his  humane  attentions  and 
devotediiei-s  'i'"^  ■^*'  (^u(V;ircd  himself  tome,  that  I  felt 
more  anxiety  for  his  safety  than  for  my  own."  Michel 
nad  gathered  no  tvipe  de  roche  ;  and  it  was  quite  evi- 


franklin's  journey  to  the  polar  sea.     439 


fer  the 

a  mo- 
;cd  him 
itenirig 
If,  and 
rom  all 

disma 
erprize, 
3,  as  to 
e  would 
ty  that 

united, 

Indian 
,  he,  for 
uld  stop 
m  to  go 
[Stances, 
10  safety 

be  the 
says  Dr. 
of  the 
le  whole 
ly  upon 
shooting 

own  life 
ould  not 
)n";idered 

of  Ilep- 
ions  and 
hat  I  felt 
Michel 
C[uite  evi- 


dent that  he  had  halted  for  no  other  purpose  than  that 
of  putting  his  gun  in  order,  to  destroy  them  that  same 
evening  while  engaged  in  setting  up  the  tent. 

Dr.  Richardson  seems  to  have  no  doubt  that  a  very 
short  time  must  have  put  an  end  to  the  sufferings  of 
Mr.  Hood.  On  his  zeal,  ability,  and  goodness  of  heart, 
both  he  and  Captain  Franklin  bestow  unqualified  praise. 

"  The  loss,"  says  the  former,  "  of  a  young  oflScer  of 
such  distinguished  and  varied  talents  and  application, 
may  be  fc^;  and  duly  ar-nreciated  by  the  eminent  cha- 
racters under  whose  coiumand  he  had  served ;  but  the 
calmness  with  which  he  contemplated  the  probable  ter- 
mination of  a  life  of  uncommon  promise;  and  the 
patience  and  fortitude  with  which  he  sustained,  I  may 
say,  unparalleled  bodily  sufferings,  can  only  be  known 
to  the  companions  of  his  distresses." 

After  dragging  along  their  famished  bodies  for  six 
days,  existing  on  lichens  and  pieces  of  the  skin  cloak 
of  poor  Mr.  Hood,  on  t)ie  29th  they  came  in  sight 
of  the  fort  at  dusk ;  "and,"  says  Dr.  E-ichardson,  "it 
is  impossible  to  describe  our  .sensations,  when,  on 
attaining  the  eminence  that  overlooks  it,  we  beheld  the 
smoke  issuing  from  one  of  the  chimneys.  From  not 
having  met  with  any  footsteps  in  the  snow,  as  wo  drew 
nigh  our  once  cheerful  residence,  we  had  been  agitated 
by  many  melancholy  forebodings.  Upon  entering  the 
now  desolate  building,  we  had  the  satisfaction  of 
embracing  Captain  Franklin,  but  no  words  can  convey 
an  idea  of  the  filth  and  wretchedness  that  met  our  eyes 
on  looking  around.  Our  own  misery  had  stolen  upon 
us  by  degrees,  and  we  were  accustomed  to  the  contem- 
olation   of    each   other's   emaciated  figures,   but   the 


440 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


ghastly  countenances,  dilated  eye-balls,  and  sepulchral 
voices  of  Mr.  Franklin  and  those  Avith  him  -were  more 
than  we  could  at  first  bear." 

An  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  dreadful  state  to  which 
the  Captain's  party  were  reduced,  by  the  death  of  two 
of  them,  two  days  after  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Richardson 
and  Hepburn.  The  only  remaining  man  and  Captain 
Franklin  were  so  utterly  unable  to  assist  themselves 
that  eight-and-forty  hours,  and  probably  half  that  time, 
w^ould  have  put  an  end  to  their  misery.  •The  whole 
labour,  therefore,  of  procuring  fire-wood,  and  scraping 
together  the  old  pieces  of  skins,  and  fragments  of  bone, 
devolved  on  Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn,  whose 
strength  was  now  rapidly  declining,  and  very  nearly 
exhausted,  when,  providentially.,  on  the  7th  of  Novem- 
ber, the  long-expected  relief  arrived,  by  the  hands  of 
three  Indians  sent  by  Mr.  Back.  The  condition  to 
which  the  four  survivors  were  reduced,  is  thus  described 
by  Captain  Franklin. 

"  I  may  here  remark,  that,  owing  to  our  loss  of  flesh, 
the  hardness  of  the  floor,  from  Avhich  we  were  only 
protected  by  a  blanket,  produced  soreness  over  the 
body,  and  especially  those  parts  on  which  the  weight 
rested  in  lying,  yet,  to  turn  ourselves  for  relief  was  a 
matter  of  toil  and  difficulty.  However,  during  this 
period,  and  indeed  all  along  after  the  acute  pains  of 
unger,  which  lasted  but  three  or  four  days,  had  sub- 
sided, we  generally  enjoyed  the  comfort  of  a  few 
hours'  sleep.  The  dreams  which  for  the  most  part,  but 
not  always  accompanied  it,  were  usually,  (though  not 
invariably,)  of  a  pleasant  character,  being  very  often 
about  the  enjoyment  of  feasting.     In  the  day  time  we 


s! 


'? 


FRANKLIN'S   JOURNEY    TO   THE    VOLAX    j'-EA.       '41 


)ulchval 
L-e  more 

• 

0  which 
of  two 
hardson 
Captain 
nnsclves 
at  time, 
e  whole 
acraping 
of  bone, 
,    whose 
f  nearly 
Novem- 
lands  of 
lition  to 
lescribed 

of  flesh, 
rere  only 
over  the 
le  weight 
ief  was  a 
ring  this 
pains  of 
had  sub- 
)f  a  few 
part,  but 
ough  not 
ery  often 
time  wo 


fell  into  the  prnctice  of  conversing  on  common  and  light 
subjects,  although  we  sometimes  discussed  with  serious- 
ness and  earnestness  topics  connected  Avith  religion.  We 
generally  avoided  speaking  directly  of  our  present  sufier- 
ings,  or  even  of  the  prosi:)ect  of  relief.    I  observed  that, 
in  proportion  as  our  strength  decayed,  our  minds  exhi- 
bited symptoms  of  weakness,  evinced  by  a  kind  of  unrea- 
sonable pcttishncss  with  each  other.  Each  of  us  thought 
the  other  Aveaker  in  intellect  than  himself,  and  more  in 
need  of  advice  and  assistance.   So  trifling  a  circumstance 
as  a  change  of  place,  recommended  by  one  as  being 
Avarmcr  and  more  comfortable,  and  refused  by  the  otlicr 
from  a  dread  of  motion,  frc(iucntly  called  forth  fretful 
expressions  which  were  no  sooner  uttered  tlian  atoned 
for,  to  be  repeated  perhaps  in  the  course  of  a  few  min- 
utes.    The  same  thing  often  occurred  Avhen  wo  endea- 
voured to  assist  each  other  in  carrying  wood  to  tlie  fire  ; 
none  of  us  were  willing  to  receive  assistance,  although 
the  task  was  disproportioned  to  our  strength.   On  one  of 
these  occasions  Hepburn  was  so  convinced  of  this  way- 
wardness  that   he   exclaimed,   '  Dear  me,   if  we   are 
spared  to  return  to  England,  I  wonder  if  we  shall 
recover  our  understandings.'  " 

Nothing  could  be  kinder  and  more  humane  than  the 
conduct  of  the  Indians.  They  cleaned  out  the  room, 
cooked  their  victuals,  had  them  washed  and  made  com- 
fortable, and  after  leaving  the  fort,  attended  them  to 
the  spot  where  their  tribe  were  engaged  in  hunting ; 
giving  up  their  own  snow-shoes,  keeping  by  their  sides, 
lifting  them  up  when  they  fell;  and  finally  conducting 
them  in  safety  to  the  nearest  of  the  Company's  posts, 
wherfe  they  met  with  their  companion,  Back,  whose  suf- 


44 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES 


5: 
0 


ferings  had  scarcely  been  less  than  their  own,  and  to 
whose  exertions  the  survivors  of  the  party  unquestion- 
ably owed  their  safety.  One  of  the  two  Canadians  who 
had  accompanied  Mr.  Back,  fell  a  sacrifice  to  cold,  hun- 
ger, and  fatigue.  Here  Mr.  Wentzcl  endeavoured  to  ex- 
culpate himself,  by  an  explanation  of  the  unfortunate 
circumstances  which  prevented  hira  from  fulfilling  Cap- 
tain Franklin's  instructions,  which  the  latter  seems  to 
think  satisfactory — we  confess  we  do  not ;  whether  from 
indifierence,  or  a  remnant  of  the  old  leaven  clinging 
about  him,  he  certainly  appears  to  have  used  very  little 
exertion  in  their  behalf.  ' . 


^i(-.^.-r.^5?*^;iii,„ 


1,  and  to 
[|[uestion- 
ians  who 
old,  liun- 
■ed  to  cx- 
Fortunate 
ing  Cap- 
seems  to 
;her  from 
clinging 
ery  little 


V^V.'; 


% 


0 

0 


I 


ROMAN   P£18AMti. 


AN  EARTHQUAKE  ADVENTURE  IN  ITALY 


)^3kl  ;| 


i 


' 


w 

P^' 

Wmm 

|IIE  sound  had  not  quite  died  away, 
when  the  feet  I  stood  on  seemed  sud- 
denly seized  with  the  cramp.  Cup 
and  coffee-pot  dropped  as  dead  from 
Don  Marzio's  hand  as  the  ball  from^ 
St.  Francis's  palm.  There  was  a  rush 
as  if  of  many  waters,  and  for  about  ten  seconds  my 
head  was  overwhelmed  by  awful  dizziness,  Avhich  numbed 
and  paralyzed  all  sensation.  Don  Marzio,  in  form  an 
athlete,  in  hcM't  a  lion,  but  a  man  of  sudden,  sanguine 
temperament,  bustled  up  and  darted  out  of  the  room 
with  the  ease  of  a  man  never  burdened  with  a  wife, 
with  kith  or  kin.  Donna  Betta,  a  portly  matron,  also 
rose  instinctively ;  but  I — I  never  could  account  for 
the  odd  freak — laid  hold  of  her  arm,  bidding  her  stay. 


146 


rEUlLOUS    ADVEXTURES. 


0 


i    - 

1 1 


The  roar  of  eight  hundred  houses — or  how  many  more 
can  there  be  in  Aquila  ? — all  reeling  and  quaking,  the 
yells  of  ten  thousand  voices  in  sudden  agony,  had 
wholly  subsided  ere  I  allowed  the  poor  woman  calmly 
and  majestically  to  waddle  up  to  her  good  man  in  the 
garden.  That,  I  suppose,  was  my  notion  of  an  orderly 
retrei  t.  Rosalbina  had  flown  from  a  window  into  the 
lawn,  like  a  bird.  Thank  God,  we  found  ourselves  all 
in  the  open  air  under  the  broad  canopy  of  heaven.  We 
began  to  count  heads.  Yes,  there  we  all  stood — cook, 
laundry-maid,  dairy-maids,  stable-boys,  all  as  obedient 
to  the  awful  summons  as  the  best  disciplined  troops  at 
the  first  roll  of  the  drum. 

It  was  February,  as  I  have  twice  observed ;  and  we 
were  in  the  heart  of  the  highest  Apennines.  The  day 
was  rather  fine,  but  pinching  cold ;  and  when  the  fever 
of  the  first  terror  abated,  the  lady  and  young  lady 
began  to  shiver  in  every  limb.  No  one  dared  to  break 
silence ;  but  Don  Marzio's  eye  wandered  significantly 
enough  from  one  to  another  countenance  in  that  awe- 
stricken  group.  There  was  no  mistaking  his  appeal. 
'Yet,  one  after  another,  his  menials  and  labourers  re- 
turned his  gaze  with  well-acted  ])erplexity.  No  one  so 
dull  of  apprehension  as  those  who  will  not  understand. 
My  good  friends,  I  was  three-and-twenty.  I  had  had 
my  trials,  and  could  boast  of  pretty  narrow  escapes, 
may  have  been  reckless,  perhaps,  in  my  day.  I  smiled 
dimly,  nodded  to  the  old  gentleman,  clapped  my  handa 
oheerily,  and  the  next  moment  was  once  more  where 
no  man  in  Aquila  would  at  that  moment  have  liked  to 
bo  for  the  world — under  a  roof.  I  made  a  huge  armful 
of  cloaks  and  blankets,  snapped  up  every  rag  with  all 


AN  EARTHQUAKE  ADVENTURE  IN  ITALY. 


447 


my  more 
king,  tho 
)ny,  had 
»n  calmly 
an  in  the 
ft  orderly 
r  into  the 
selves  all 
en.  We 
id — cook, 
obedient 
troops  at 

;  and  we 
The  day 
the  fever 
ang  lady 
to  break 
nificantly 
that  awe- 
appeal, 
mrers  re- 
!^o  one  so 
derstand. 
'.  had  had 
escapes. 
I  smiled 
my  hands 
ore  where 
e  liked  to 
ge  armful 
r  with  all 


the  haste  of  a  marauding  party,  and  moved  toward  tho 
door,  tottering  under  the  encumbrance.  But  now  the 
drea'^%]  crisis  was  at  hand.  • 

Earthquakes,  it  is  well  known,  proceed  by  action 
and  re-action.     The  second  shock,  I  was  aware,  mutt 
be  imminent.     I  had  just  touched  the  threshold,  and 
stood  under  tho  porch,  when  that  curious  spasmodic 
sensation  once  more  stiffened  every  muscle  in  my  limbs. 
Presently  I  felt  myself  lifted  up  from  the  ground.     I 
was  noAV  under  the  portico,  and  was  hurled  against  the 
pillar  on  my  right ;  the  rebound  again  drove  me  to  the 
post  on  the  opposite  side ;  and  after  being  thus  repeat- 
edly tossed  and  buffeted  from  right  to  loft  like  a  shut- 
tlecock, I  was  thrust  down,  outward,  on  the  ground  on 
my  head,  with  all  that  bundle  of  rags,  having  tumbled 
headlong  the  whole  range  of  the  four  marble  steps  of 
entrance.     The  harm,  however,  was  not  so  great  as  the 
fright ;  and,  tlianks  to  my  gallant  devotion,  the  whole 
party  were  wrapped  and  blanketed,  till  they  looked 
like  a  party  of  wild  Indians ;  m'O  stood  now  on  com- 
paratively firm  ground,  and  had  leisure  to  look  about 
us.     Don  Marzio's  garden  was  open  and  spacious,  being 
bounded  on  three  sides  by  tho  half-crumbling  wall  of 
the  town.     On  the  fourth  side  was  the  house — a  good, 
substantial  fabric,  but  now  miserably  shaky  and  rickety. 
Close  by  the  house  was  the  chapel  of  the  Ursuline  con- 
vent, and  above  that  its  splendid  spire  rose  chaste  and 
stainless,  "  pointing  the  way  to  heaven."     Any  rational 
being  might  have  deemed  himself  sufficiently  removed 
from  brick  and  mortar,  and,  in  so  far,  out  of  harm's 
way.     Not  so  Don  Marzio.     He  pointed  to  the  shadow 
of  that  spire,  which,  in  the  pale  wintry  sunset,  stretched 


448 


PERILOUS  ADVENTUllES. 


0 


all  the  way  across  liis  gunlcn,  and  by  a  strange  per- 
version of  judgment,  ho  contended  that  so  far  as  the 
shadow  extended,  there  might  also  the  body  that  cast 
it  reach  in  its  fall,  for  fall  it  obviously  must ;  and  as 
the  danger  was  pressing,  lie  deemed  it  unwise  to  discuss 
which  of  the  four  cardinal  points  the  tower  might  feel 
a  loaning  toward,  whenever,  under  the  impulse  of  the 
subterranean  scourge,  it  would  "  look  around  and  choose 
its   ground."      Don    Marzio    was   gifted   with   animal 
courage,  and  even  nerve,  proportionate  to  the  might  of 
his  stalwart  frame.     But  then  his  was  merely  a  com- 
bative spirit.     Thews  and  sinews  were  of  no  avail  in 
the  case.     The  garden  was  no  breathing  ground  for 
him,  and  he  resolved  upon  prompt  emigration. 
.  The  people  of  Aquila,  as  indeed  you  may  well  know, 
of  most  towns  in  Southern  Italy,  have  the  habit  of — 
consequently  a  peculiar  talent  for — earthquakes.     They 
know  how  to  deal  with  them,  and  arc  seldom  caught 
unprepared.     Two  hundred  yards  outside  the  town  gate, 
there  is  half  a  square  mile  of  table-land  on  the  summit 
of  a  hill — a  market-plate  in  days  of  ease,  a  harbour  of 
refuge  in  the  urgency  of  peril.     From  the  first  dropping 
of  the  earth-ball  from  the  hand  of  their  guardian  saint, 
the  most  far-sighted  among  the  inhabitants  had  been 
busy  pitching  their   tents.     The  whole   population — 
those,  that  is,  who  had  escaped  unscathed  by  flying 
tiles   and   chimney-pots — were   now     warming   there, 
pulling,  pushing,  hauling,   and   hammering  away  for 
rery  life ;   with  women  fainting,  children  screeching. 
Capuchins  preaching.     It  was  like  a  little  rehearsal  of 
doomsday.     Don  Marzio,  a  prudent  housekeeper,  had 
the  latch-key  of  a  private  door  at  the  back  of  the  garden. 


AN  EARTHQUAKE  ADVENTURE  IN  ITALY. 


449 


go.  per- 
:  as  tlic 
liat  cast 

and  as 
I  discuss 
Ight  feci 
le  of  the 
d  choose 
L  animal 
night  of 
y  a  com- 

avail  in 
'ound  for 

• 

ell  know, 
labit  of — 
13.     They 
m  caught 
town  gate, 
10  summit 
arbour  of 
dropping 
ian  saint, 
had  been 
lulation — 

by  flying 
ng  there, 
away  for 
icreeching, 
hearsal  of 
ceper,  had 
ho  garden. 


He  threw  it  open — not  without  a  misgiving  at  the 
moss-grown  wall  overhead.  That  night  the  very  stars 
did  not  seem  to  him  sufficiently  firm  nailed  to  the  firma- 
ment !  His  family  and  dependents  trooped  after  him, 
eager  to  follow.  Rosalbina  looked  back — at  one  who 
was  left  behind.  Don  Marzio  felt  he  owed  me  at  least 
one  word  .of  leave-taking.  He  hemmed  twice,  came 
back  two  steps,  and  gave  me  a  feverish  shake  of  the 
hand. 

"  I  am  heartily  sorry  for  you,  my  boy,"  he  cried. 
"  A  fuoruscito,  as  I  may  say,  a  bird-in-the-bush — you 
dare  not  show  your  nose  outside  the  door.  You  would 
not  compromise  yourself  alone,  you  know,  but  all  of  us 
and  our  friends;  we  must  leave  you — safe  enough 
here,  I  dare  say,"  with  a  stolen  glance  at  the  Ursuline 
spire,  "but — ^you  see — imperative  duties — head  of  a 
family — take  care  of  the  females — and  so,  God  bless 
you!" 

With  this  he  left  me  there,  under  the  deadly  shape 
of  the  steeple — deadlier  to  him  than  the  upas-tree; 
ordered  his  little  household  band  out,  and  away  they 
filed,  ^  one  by  one,  the  head  of  the  family  manfully 
closing  the  rear.  .  .  . 

I  was  alone — alone  with  the  earthquake.  .... 
There  was  a  wood-cellar  in  one  of  the  out-houses,  access 
to  which  was  easy  and  safe.  One  of  my  host's  domes- 
tics had  slipped  flint  and  steel  into  my  hands.  In  less 
than  half-an-hour's  time,  a  cheerful  fire  was  crackling 
before  me.  I  drew  forth  an  old  lumbering  arm-chair 
from  the  wood-cellar,  together  with  my  provision  and 
fuel.  I  shrouded  myself  in  the  ample  folds  of  one  of 
Don  Marzio's  riding-cloaks ;  I  sat  with  folded  arms, 


38^ 


450 


PERILOUS    ABVKNTURES. 


0 

0 


my  eyes  riveted  on  the  rl.-ting  bl:izo,  summoning  all  iny 
spirits  round  my  heart,  and  bidding  it  to  bear  up.  The 
Bun  had  long  set,  and  the  last  gleam  of  a  sickly  twilight 
^apidly  faded.  A  keen,  damp,  northeast  wind  swept 
ver  the  earth  ;  thin,  black,  ragged  clouds  flitted  before 
It,  like  uneasy  ghosts.  A  stray  star  twinkled  hero  and 
there  in  the  firmament,  and  the  sickle-sjiaped  moon 
hung  in  the  west.  But  the  light  of  those  pale  lumina- 
ries was  wan  and  fitful.  They  seemed  to  be  aAvare  ot" 
the  hopelessness  of  their  struggle,  and  to  mourn  in 
anticipation  of  the  moment  when  they  should  faint  in 
flight,  and  unrelieved  darkness  shou? "  rd  it  over  the 
fields  of  the  heavens.  "  .?"     •. 

The  town  of  Aquila,  or  the  Eagle,  as  the  natives 
name  it,  is  perched,  eagle-like,  on  the  brow  of  an  abrupt 
cliff  in  the  bosom  of  the  loftiest  Apennines.  Mont 
Reale,  Monte  Velino,  and  the  giant  of  the  whole  chain, 
the  "  Gran  Sasso  d'ltalia,"  look  dawn  upon  it  from 
theii'  exalted  thrones.  Within  the  shelter  of  that  mas- 
sive armour,  the  town  mi^ht  well  seem  invulnerable  to 
time  and  man.  But,  as  I  gazed  despondingly  round, 
the  very  hills  everlasting  seemed  rocking  froyi  their 
foundation,  and  their  crests  nodding  to  destruction. 
Which  of  those  mighty  peaks  was  to  open  the  fire  of 
hell's  artillery  upon  us  ?  Was  not  Etna  once  as  still 
and  dark  as  yonder  great  rock  ?  and  yet  it  now  glares 
by  night  with  its  ominous  beacon,  and  cities  and  king- 
doms have  been  swept  away  at  its  base. 

Two  hours  passed  away  in  gloomy  meditation.  The 
whole  town  was  a  desert.  The  camp  meeting  of  the 
unhoused  Aquilani  was  held  somewhere  in  the  distance : 
its  confused  murmur  reached  me  not.     Only  my  neigh- 


AN  KAllTUQL'AKK  ADVENTUllK  IN  ITALY. 


451 


all  v\y 
.     The 

1  swept 
I  before 
eve  and 
(1  moon 

lumina- 
Avare  of 
lourn  in 
I  faint  in 

over  the 

B  natives 
in  abrupt 
s.     Mont 
ole  chain, 
1  it  from 
that  mas- 
Qorable  to 
rly  round, 
Voji  their 
2struction. 
the  fire  of 
ICC  as  still 
now  glares 
1  and  king- 

tion.  The 
ting  of  the 
e  distance : 
r  my  neigh- 


bours, the  Ur.suliiie  nnns,  were  up  and  awake.  AVith 
shrinking  delicacy,  dreading  the  look  and  touch  of  the 
profane  even  more  than  the  walls  of  their  prison-house, 
they  had  stood  their  ground  with  the  heroism  of  true 
faith,  and  reared  their  temporary  asylum  under  their 
vine-canopied  bowers,  within  the  siinde  of  the  cloisters. 
A  high  garden-wall  alone  separated  me  from  the  holy 
virgins.  They  were  watching,  and  kneeling.  Every 
note  from  their  silver  voices  sank  deep  in  my  heart, 
and  impressed  me  with  something  of  that  pious  confi- 
dence, of  that  imj»loring  fervour,  with  whlcl'  they  ad- 
dressed their  guardian  angels  and  saints.  Two  hours 
had  passed.  The  awfulness  of  prevailing  tranquillity, 
tlie  genial  warmth  of  my  fire,  and  the  sweet  monotony 
of  that  low,  mournful  chanting,  were  by  degrees  gliding 
into  my  troubled  senses,  and  lulling  them  into  a  treacher 
ous  security.  "Just  so,"  1  reasoned,  "shock  and 
countershock.  The  terrible  scourge  has  by  this  time 
cxliausted  his  strength.  It  was  only  a  farce,  after  all. 
Much  ado  about  nothing.  The  people  of  this  town, 
have  become  so  familiar  with  the  eartlujuake  that  they 
make  a  carnival  of  it.  By  this  time  they  are  perhaps 
feasting  and  rioting  under  their  booths.  Ho  !  am  I 
the  only  craven  hero  ?  And  had  I  not  my  desire  ? 
Am  I  not  now  uu  speaking  terms  wiih  uu  earth- 
quake  : 

Again  my  words  conjured  up  the  waking  enemy.  A 
low,  hollow,  rumbling  noise,  as  if  from  many  hundred 
miles'  distance,  was  heard  coming  rapidly  onward  along 
the  whole  line  of  the  Apennines.  It  reached  us,  it 
seemed  to  stop  underneath  our  feet,  and  suddenly 
chanKin<i;  its  horizontal  for  a  vertical  direction,  it  burst 


I'ERILOUS    ADVENTURES. 


0 


upward.  The  ^Yllolc  earth  heaved  with  a  sudden  pang ; 
it  then  gave  a  backward  bound,  oven  as  a  vessel  ship- 
ping a  sea.  The  motion  then  becuine  undulatory,  and 
spread  far  and  wide  as  the  report  of  a  cannon,  awaken- 
ing every  echo  in  the  mountain.  There  was  a  rattle 
and  clatter  in  the  town,  as  if  of  a  thousand  wagons 
[^'.hooting  down  paving  stones.  The  Ursuline  steeple 
waved  in  the  air  like  a  reed  vexed  by  the  blast.  The 
cliair  I  stood  on  was  all  but  capsized,  and  the  fire  at 
my  feet  was  overthrown.  The  very  vault  of  heaven 
swung  to  and  fro,  ebbing  and  heaving  with  the  general 
convulsion.  The  doleful  psalmody  in  the  neighbouring 
ground  broke  abruptl};.  The  chorus  of  many  femiuine 
voices  sent  fortli-but  one  rending  shriek.  The  clamour 
of  thousands  of  the  town-folks  from  their  encampment 
gave  its  wakeful  response.  Then  the  dead  silence  of 
consternation  ensued.  I  picked  up  every  stick  and 
brand  that  had  been  scattered  about,  steadied  myself 
in  my  chair,  and  hung  down  my  head.  "  These  black 
hounds,"  I  mused,  "hunt  in  couples.  Now  for  the 
re}icrcussion." 

I  had  not  many  minutes  to  wait.  Again  the  iron 
hoofed  steeds  and  heavy  wheels  of  the  state  chaiiot  of 
tlio  prince  of  darkness  were  heard  tramping  and  rat- 
tling in  their  course.  Once  more  the  subterranean 
iivalanchc  gathered  and  burst.  Once  more  the  ground 
(Ml oath  throbbed  and  heaved  as  if  with  rending  travail. 
Oiieo  more  heaven  and  earth  seemed  to  yearn  to  each 
'  ii!(.' ■;  iind  the  embers  of  my  watch-fire  were  cast  up- 
w;i,rd  and  strewn  asunder.  It  Avas  an  awful  long  winter 
night.  The  same  sable  clouds  rioting  in  the  sky,  the 
same  cruel  wind  moaning  iingrily  through  the  chinks 


AN  EARTHQUAKE  ADVENTURE  IN  ITALY. 


453 


n  pang ; 
sel  ship- 
ory,  and 
awaken- 

a  rattle 
I  wagons 
3  steeple 
St.  The 
he  £re  at 
if  heaven 
e  general 
jhbouring 

femiiime 
e  clamoi.r 
jampment 
silence  of 
stick  and 
id  myself 
lese  black 
w  for  the 

the  iron 
haiiot  of 
and  rat- 
terranean 
le  ground 
g  travail, 
n  to  each 
oast  up- 
>ng  winter 
3  sky,  the 
he  chinks 


and  crevices  of  many  a  shattered  edifice.  Solitude,  the 
chillness  of  night,  and  the  vagueness,  even  more  than 
the  inevitablcncss,  of  the  danger,  wrought  fear- 
fully on  my  exhausted  frame.  Stupor  and  lethargy 
soon  followed  these  brief  moments  of  speechless  excite- 
ment. Bewildered  imagination  peopled  the  air  v/ith 
vague,  unutterable  terrors.  Legions  of  phantoms 
sported  on  those  misshapen  clouds.  The  clash  of  a 
thousand  swords  was  borne  on  the  wind.  Tongues  of 
living  flame  danced  and  quivered  in  every  direction. 
The  firmament  seemed  all  burning  with  them.  I  saw 
myself  alone,  helpless,  hopeless,  the  miserable  butt  of 
all  the  rage  of  warring  elements.  It  was  an  uncom- 
fortable night.  Ten  and  twelve  times  was  the  dreadful 
visitation  reproduced  betAvccn  sunset  and  sunrise,  and 
every  shock  found  me  more  utterly  unnerved ;  and  the 
sullen,  silent  resignation  with  which  I  recomposcd  and 
trimmed  my  fire  had  something  in  it  consummately  ab- 
ject, by  the  side  of  the  doleful  accents  with  which  the 
poor  half-hoarse  nuns,  my  neighbourr-^  called  on  the 
blessed  Virgin  for  protection. 

The  breaking  morn  found  me  utterly  prostrated ; 
and  when  Don  Marzio's  servants  had  so  far  recovered 
from  their  panic  as  to  intrude  upon  my  solitude,  and 
offer  their  services  for  the  erection  of  my  tent  in  the 
garden,  I  had  hardly  breath  enough  loft  to  welcome 
them.  Under  that  tent  I  passed  days  and  nights  dur- 
ing all  the  remainder  of  February.  The  sliocks,  though 
diminished  in  strength,  almost  nightly  roused  us  from 
our  rest.  But  the  people  of  Aquila  soon  learned  to 
despise  them.  By  one,  by  two,  by  three  they  sought 
the  threshold  of  their  dismantled  homes.     Last  of  all. 


454 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


0 


Don  Ma.; io  folded  his  tent.  His  fears  having,  finally, 
so  far  given  way,  as  to  alloAv  him  to  think  of  something 
beside  himself,  he  exerted  himself  to  free  me  from  con- 
finement. He  furnished  mo  with  faithful  guides,  by 
whose  aid  I  reached  the  sea-coast.  Here  a  Maltese 
vessel  was  waiting  to  waft  me  to  a  land  of  freedom  and 
security.  I  can  tell  you,  my  friends,  that  from  that 
time  I  Avas  cured  forever  of  all  curiosity  about  earth- 
quakes. ,       -      . 


finally, 
aetliing 
)m  con- 
des,  by 
Maltese 
om  and 
>ra  that 
t  eartb- 


tj^^' 


0 

0 


:.<'.■,         J: 


«) 


ADVENTURES  OF  CAPTAIN  HEAI/  IN 
CANADA. 


'N  1829  Captain  Head  pub 
lished  a  very  entertaining 
volume  entitled  "  Forest 
Scenes  and  Incidents,  in 
the  Wilds  of  North  Amer- 
ica ;  being  a  Diary  of  a  win 
ter's  route  from  Halifax 
to  the  Canadas,  and  during 
a  four   months'    Residence 

in  the  Woods,  on  the  borders  of  Lakes  Huron  and 

Simcoe*" 


458 


PEllILOUS    ADVLNTL'llKS. 


0 


=g=ii 

.^^ 

^^^ 

^^ 

>■;.-: 

-J 

iM^ 

BT.  jonxs. 


Captain  Head,  being  ordered  to  a  stat'ou  in  Upper 
Canada,  landed  at  Halifax  in  the  latter  end  of  Novem- 
ber ;  the  passage  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence  was  al- 
ready closed,  and  he  liad  therefore  to  make  his  way 
thither  over  land,  a  distance  of  more  than  twelve  hnn- 
dred  miles.  The  time  of  year  could  hardly  have  been 
worse  for  the  journey  :  though  November  is  to  the 
Nova  Scotians  their  best  month,  So  much  so,  inileed, 
IS  to  bo  called,  for  its  '  fresh  frosty  air  and  bright  sun,' 
he  Indian  summer.  '■'/^"-.^^--'W^'^''' 

He  went  from  Halifax,  through  Annapolis',  St. 
John's,  and  Fredericton,  to  Prcsque  Isle.  Here,  to 
his  great  satisfaction,  the.  Quebec  mail  arrived,  in  the 
shape  of  "  two  men  on  foot,  of  a  tempest-driven  ap- 
pearance;"  their  clothes  and  caps  covered  with  snow 


ADVENTUllKrf   CI    CAPTAIN    1IE.\D. 


450 


i 


U  in  Upper 
of  Novcin- 
cc  Avas  al- 
ee his  way 
welvc  lum- 
■f  have  been 
r  is  to  the 
so,  iiiileed, 
bright  sun,' 

lapolis',  St. 
Here,  to 
rived,  in  the 
it-driven  ap- 
l  with  snow 


each  with  a  pair  of  snow-shoes  slung  at  his  back,  and 
a  large  wliito  leather  bag  across  his  shoulders.  They 
were  both  native  French  Canadians,  one  apparently 
of  half  Indian  blood.  With  these  men  he  agreed 
to  bo  his  guides,  and  draw  his  baggage  on  the  two  tobo- 
gins,  from  Presque  Isle,  along  the  course  of  the  river 
by  the  Madawaska  settlement  and  Lake  Tamasquatha, 
to  the  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  for  fifteen  pounds. 
The  distance  is  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles ;  and  there  is  a  line  of  small  log-houses  on  the 
way,  occupied  by  settlers,  to  whom  grants  of  land 
have  been  coded,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  open  the 
communication.  These  men  had  the  bags  from  Que- 
bec ;  they  were,  Avhen  rid  of  them,  to  join  him  at  the 
house  of  Mr.  Turner,  at  Presque  Isle.  There  he 
was  detained  eight-and-forty  hours,  waiting  first  their 
arrival,  and  then  their  convenience ;  and  the  descrip- 
tion of  his  host,  who  Avas  the  chief  diplomatist  in  those 
parts,  and,  moreover,  a  man  in  authority,  and  the  ac- 
count of  his  establishment,  presents  a  lively  picture  of 
civilized  life  (as  that  which  is  not  savage  must  in  cour- 
tesy be  called)  in  its  coarsest  state. 

The  party  consisted  of  Mr.  Head  and  his  servant, 
three  travellers  Avho  joined  at  ?>!..  Turner's,  and  the 
two  guides.  The  guides  loaded  the  tobogins,  each  put 
himself  in  harness,  Avith  a  broad  leathern  strap  passing 
over  the  breast  and  shoulders,  to  Avhich  a  rope  was 
fixed,  and  thus  hi  could  diaAV  his  load,  Avliile  his  arms 
Avere  at  liberty.  The  Aveight,  sliding  easily  over  the 
snow,  seemed  scarcely  to  impede  them,  accustomed,  as 
they  Avere,  to  such  draft  and  such  travelling.  But  the 
rest  of  the  party  Avere  unused  to  snoAV-shoes,  the  use 


0 


460 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


of  -which  is  not  acquired  without  a  severe  apprantico- 
ship.  These  are  heavy,  and  they  soon  became  heavily 
incumbered  with  ice,  there  being  much  water  between 
the  surface  of  the  river  and  the  snovr,  which  froze  im- 
mediately. It  was  necessary  to  be  provided  with  short 
sticks  for  beating  this  off.  Before  them  was  one  uni- 
form white  expanse  of  snow,  on  each  side  '  the  heavy 
black  wall  of  forest  trees.'  With  their  utmost  exer- 
tions they  could  not  proceed  at  the  rate  of  two  miles 
an  hour ;  and  happy  they  were,  after  seven  hours'  toil, 
to  reach  their  appointed  place  of  rest, — a  small  log- 
house,  at  the  computed  distance  of  ten  miles  from  Mr. 
Turner's.  Salted  pork  and  sliced  potatoes  were  the 
only  fare  which  could  be  procured  here ;  but  there  was 
the  greatest  of  all  comforts  in  such  a  couatry,  to  com- 
pensate for  this, — a  fire,  composed  of  enormous  logs, 
with  one  called  the  buche  at  the  back  of  the  hearth,  so 
large  as  to  require  the  strength  of  tAvo  or  three  men, 
with  the  aid  of  levers,  to  bring  it  in :  a  largo  one  lasts 
full  cight-and-forty  hours.  Over  the  fire  the  mocas- 
sins and  stockings  of  all  the  party  were  hung  to  dry. 
To  beds,  as  well  as  all  other  comforts,  except  what  fire 
could  bestow,  Mr.  Head  had  bidden  adieu;  but  he 
thought  his  lodging  good,  wrapped  himself  in  his  buffa- 
lo skin,  and  slept  soundly  on  the  boards.  The  next 
day's  was  a  journey  of  fourteen  miles ;  snow  had  fall- 
en in  the  night,  which,  as  it  still  lay  soft,  ma».  •  their 
progress,  if  that  were  possible,  more  difficult  than  be- 
fore ;  at  every  step,  the  foot  felt  as  if  chained  to  the 
ground  by  ice  and  clotted  snow:  and,  as  the  shores  of 
the  ri^'^er  widened,  the  feeling  of  disappointment  was 
added  to  their  labour ;  the  point  on  which  their  eyes 


ADVENTURES   OP   CAPTAIN    ItEAD 


4G1 


rsntico- 
heavily 
between 
rozo  im- 
tli  short 
one  uni- 
heavy 
>st  exer- 
vo  miles 
uvs'  toil, 
nail  log- 
i-om  ^Ir. 
were  the 
hero  was 
to  com- 
ous  logs, 
icarth,  so 
rec  men, 
one  lasts 
le  mocas- 
g  to  dry. 
what  fire 
;  but  ho 
his  buffa- 
The  next 
had  fall- 
lau     their 
t  than  bo- 
ned to  tho 
shores  of 
;ment  was 
their  eyea 


were  wistfully  fixed,  appeared,  after  an  hour's  hard 
fagging,  hardly  nearer  than  before  ;  they  "  seemed  sep- 
arated by  interminable  space,  from  headland  after 
headland,  and  gasping,  as  it  were,  under  a  sort  of  spell- 
bound influence,  such  a  disturbed  dream  brings  to  tho 
imagination."  Mr.  Head's  servant  fell  up  to  liis  middlo 
in  an  air-hole,  small  enough  for  him  to  support  himself 
by  the  arms  till  he  could  bo  pulled  out,  and,  fortu- 
nately, so  near  the  log-house  where  they  were  to  rest,  that 
there  was  not  time  for  him  to  bo  frozen.  At  this  log- 
house  some  settlers  in  the  vicinity  had  collected,  one  of 
whom  requested  Mr.  Head  to  take  charge  of  a  letter 
for  his  relations  in  Sco^^land,  from  wliom  it  was  very 
long  since  he  had  heard  any  tidings.  He  "  seated  him- 
self on  the  ground,  in  a  corner  of  the  room ;  his  desk 
was  a  plate  supported  on  his  knees ;  his  paper  was  as 
bad  as  well  could  be ;  his  ink  newly  thawed  and  quite 
pale  ;  his  pen,  pulled  out  of  a  wild  goose's  tail,  was 
oily ;  his  own  hand  was  as  hard  as  the  bark  of  a  tree ; 
and  his  broad  black  thumb  had  been  smashed  by  the 
blow  of  a  hammer  or  an  axe,  and  had  no  sort  of  bend 
in  it."  This,  however,  was  a  fortunate  opportunity  for 
this  poor  man ;  and  the  letter  which,  under  these  un- 
comfortable circumstances,  he  produced,  was  subse- 
quently delivered  to  its  address.  IMr.  Head  very  pro- 
perly re-marks  upon  this, — that  "  the  difficulties  attend- 
ing the  interchange  of  letters  between  settlers  in  the 
colonies  and  their  friends  at  home,  are  well  worthy 
the  attention  of  those  desirous  to  promote  emigration. 
The  greater  the  facility  of  correspondence,  the  more 
the  stimulus  to  individual  adventure  receives  strength. 
Epistolary  intercourse  being  kept  up,  the  objections  to 

39* 


462 


PERILOUS   ADVKNTUllES. 


0 


foreign  residence  more  re:5cml)le  ;  rejudices ;  witlib>^<^ 
or  ddaycd,  tlioy  bee  me  solid,  undoniublc  objections, 
und  then  it  is  that  an  emigrant  may  be  considered 
really  an  exile." 

He  had  perceived,  by  his  servant's  fall  into  the  air- 
hole, that  no  precaution  could  bo  of  any  avail  against 
this  danger ;  and  that  nothing  was  to  be  done  but  to 
take  the  chance,  in  such  a  case,  for  ducking  or  for 
drowning.  The  postmen,  it  ap  oared  next  day,  were 
of  the  same  opinion  ;  and,  showing  how  little  they  liked 
the  chance,  proposed  that  each  of  the  party  should  walk 
first,  by  turns.  They  were,  perhaps,  as  much  influ- 
enced in  this  by  the  desire  of  easing  their  labour  as 
diminishing  their  danger;  for  the  first  man  had  to  make 
his  way  upon  the  untrodden  snow, — and  upon  the  large 
track  of  his  snow  shoos,"  those  who  followed  found 
what  was  comparatively  firm  footing.  The  guides  pie- 
scribed  their  course  according  to  their  notion  of  the  safety 
of  the  ice,  which,  as  it  could  be  founded  only  on  their 
recollected  knowledge  of  the  river,  was  but  blind  guid- 
ance ;  yet  they  made  long  circuitous  paths  in  conse- 
quence. A  snoAV-storm  came  on  directly  in  their 
teeth  ;  when  they  had  been  little  more  than  seven  hours 
on  the  way,  it  blew  a  hurricane :  they  were  unable  to 
see  each  other  at  a  greater  distance  than  ten  yards  ; 
and  the  drift  made  the  surface  of  the  snow,  through 
which  they  were  toiling,  appear  like  an  agitated  sea. 
Wheeled  round  every  noAV  and  then  by  the  wind,  the 
cloud  which  enveloped  them  was  so  strong,  that  it  pro- 
duced a  sense  of  suilbcation.  Even  the  indefatigable 
guides  admitted  that  it  Avas  impossible  to  proceed  :  the 
forest  was  at  hand,  and  there  they  took  i-efuge — turn- 


AlJVLNTUIlKS   0¥   CAl'TAIN    HEAD. 


463 


lVltllb>i<^ 

jcctions, 
»nsidercd 

)  the  air- 
agiainst 
ic  but  to 

g  or  for 
lay,  wore 
hey  liked 
)uld  walk 
ich  influ- 
labour  as 
1  to  make 

tlie  large 
ed  found 
uidcs  pie- 
the  safety 
J  on  their 
ilind  guid- 

in  conse- 

in  their 
3ven  hours 
unable  to 
;en  yards  ; 
V,  througli 
itated  sea. 
'  Avind,  the 
hat  it  pro- 
lefatigablo 
oceed  :  the 
Lige — turn- 


ing their  shouhhrs  to  the  blast — and  prepared  to  bi- 
vouac for  the  nipjlit.  His  companions  were  prepared 
for  such  an  ad\  rnturc.     lie  says, 

"  The  frequent  crashes  of  falling  trees,  and  the 
cracking  of  their  vast  limbs  as  thoy  rocked  and  writhed 
in  the  tempest,  created  awful  and  impressive  sounds ; 
l)ut  it  was  no  time  to  be  idle :  warmth  and  shelter  were 
ol)jocts  connected  with  life  itself,  and  the  Canadians 
immediately  commenced  the  vigorous  application  of 
their  resources.  By  means  of  their  small  light  axes, 
a  good  sized  maple  tree  was  in  a  very  few  minutes  lev- 
elled with  the  earth,  and  in  tlio  mean  time  we  cleared 
of  snow  a  square  spot  of  ground,  -with  large  pieces  of 
bark  rippeil  from  the  fiillen  trees.  The  fibrous  bark 
of  the  white  cedar,  previously  rubbed  to  powder  be- 
tween the  hands,  was  ignited,  and  blowing  upon  this,  a 
flame  was  produced.  This  being  fed,  first  by  the  silky 
peelings  of  the  birch  bark,  and  then  by  the  bark  itself, 
the  oily  and  bituminous  matter  burst  forth  into  full 
action,  and  a  splendid  fire  raised  its  flames  and  smoke 
amidst  a  pile  of  huge  logs,  to  which  one  and  all  of  us 
were  constantly  and  eagerly  contributing. 

"  Having  raised  a  covering  of  s[)ruce  boughs  above 
our  heads,  to  serve  as  a  partial  defence  from  the  snow, 
which  was  still  falling  in  great  abundance,  we  sat  down, 
turning  our  feet  to  the  fire,  making  the  most  of  what 
was,  Tind"er  circumstances,  a  source  of  real  consolation 
We  enjoyed  absolute  rest !  One  side  of  our  square 
was  bounded  by  a  huge  tree,  which  lay  stretched  across 
it.  Against  this  our  fire  was  made  ;  and  on  the  oppo- 
site side  towards  which  I  had  turned  my  back,  another 
very  large  one  was   growing,    and   into    this   latter, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


I.I 


If  i^  IIIIM 
■^  l»  mil  2.2 


-    tiS,    lilO 


1.8 


1.25      1.4 

^ 

^ 

6"     - 

► 

V] 


<^ 


/2 


/: 


n 


7 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


S 


\ 


\5 


;\ 


3 


4G4 


I'KU  11.01.-;  Ai)Vi;ATt'i,i;;; 


0 

0 


being  old  and  deoayod,  1  had  by  (k'greos  worked  my 
way,  and  it  I'ornied  an  admirable  sheller.  The  snow 
was  banked  up  on  all  sides  nearly  five  feet  liigli,  like  a 
white  wall ;  and  it  resolutely  maintained  its  position, 
not  an  atom  yielding  to  the  fierce  crackling  fire  which 
olazed  up  close  against  it. 

"  The  Canadians  were  soon  busily  employed  cooking 
brotli  in  a  saucepan,  for  they  had  provided  themselves 
much  better  with  provisions  than  I  had.  I  had  relied 
upon  being  able  to  put  up  with  the  fare  I  might  meet 
with,  not  taking  into  consideration  the  want  of  traffic, 
and  distance  from  the  civilized  parts  of  the  province ; 
owing  to  which,  tlio  scanty  provision  of  the  inhabi- 
tants could  not  allow  them  to  minister  to  the  wants  of 
others,  although  they  might  be  provided  with  a  suffi- 
ciency for  themselves.  And  I  now  saw  the  guides  pull- 
ing fresh  meat  out  of  the  soup  with  their  fingers,  and 
sharing  it  liberally  with  my  servant,  whom  they  had 
admitted  into  their  mess.  The  poor  fellows  seeing 
that  I  had  nothing  but  a  piece  of  salted  pork,  which  I 
had  toasted  at  the  fire  on  a  stick,  offered  me  a  share 
of  their  supper,  but  this  I  felt  myself  bound  to  decline. 
My  servant  had  fewer  scruples,  and  consequently  fared 
better.  In  return  for  their  intentions  I  gave  them  a 
good  allowance  of  whisky,  which  added  to  their  com- 
fort and  increased  their  mirth.  One  by  one  they  lighted 
lioir  tobacco  pipes,  and  continued  to  smoke;  till, 
dropping  off  by  degrees,  the  whole  party  at  last  lay 
stretched  out  snoring  before  me. 

"  Large  flakes  of  snow  continued  to  fall,  and  heavy 
clots  dropped  occasionally  upon  the  ground.  Our 
enormous  fire  had  the  effect  of  making  me  so  comfort- 


ADVENTURES  OP   CAPTAIN   HEAD. 


465 


'uvkctl  iny 
Tho  snow 
ligh,  like  a 
a  position, 
firo  which 

ed  cooking 
themselves 
;  had  relied 
might  meet 
t  of  traffic, 
)  province; 
the  inhabi- 
le  wants  of 
with  a  suffi- 
guides  pull- 
angers,  and 
1  they  had 
ows  seeing 
rk,  which  I 
me  a  share 
to  decline, 
icntly  fared 
ave  them  a 
their  com- 
hcy  lighted 
moke;   till, 
at  last  lay 

and  heavy 
ound.  Our 
so  comfort- 


ably warm,  that  I  had  deferred  the  uie  of  my  buffalo 
skin  till  I  lay  down  to  sleep,  and  were  it  not  for  tho 
volumes  of  smoke  with  which  I  was  at  times  disturbed, 
and  the  pieces  of  fire  which  burnt  holes  in  my  clothes 
wherever  they  happened  to  fall,  my  lodging  would  hav 
been,  under  circumstances,  truly  agreeable.  I  sat  for 
some  time,  with  a  blanket  thrown  over  my  shoulders, 
in  silent  contemplation  of  a  scene  alike  remarkable  to 
mo  for  its  novelty  and  its  dreariness. 

"  The  flames  rose  brilliantly,  the  sleeping  figures  of 
the  men  were  covered  with  snow,  the  wind  whistled 
wildly  through  the  trees,  whose  majestic  forms  over- 
shadowed us  on  every  side,  and  our  fire,  while  it  shed 
the  light  of  day  on  the  immediately  surrounding  ob- 
jects, difiused  a  deeper  gloom  over  the  farther  recesses 
of  the  forest.  And  thus  I  remained  without  any  incli- 
nation to  sleep,  till  it  was  near  midnight.  A  solemn 
impression,  not  to  be  called  melancholy,  weighed  hea- 
vily upon  me.  The  satisfaction  with  which  I  regarded 
the  fatigue  which  had  gone  by,  was  hardly  sufficient 
to  inspire  confidence  as  to  what  was  to  come ;  and  this 
reflection  it  was,  perhaps,  that  gave  a  colour  to  my 
thoughts  at  once  serious  and  pleasing.  Distant  scenes 
were  brought  to  my  recollection,  and  I  mused  on  past 
one  times,  till  my  eyes  became  involuntarily  attracted 
by  the  filmy,  wandering  leaves  of  fire,  which  ascending 
lightly  over  the  tops  of  the  trees,  for  a  moment  ri- 
valled in  brightness  the  absent  stars,  and  then — vanished 
forever !  .  .  .  I  became  overpowered  with  sleep, 
and,  wrapping  my  bufialo  skin  around  me,  sank  down 
to  enjoy  for  several  hours  sound  and  uninterrupted  re- 
pose.    I  slept  heartily  till  day-light,  when  I  awoke 


466 


PKRILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


feeling  excessively  cold,  and  found  the  whole  party  sit 
ting  up.  The  snow  had  ceased  to  fall,  the  sky  had 
brightened,  and  intense  frost  had  set  in."  •  -.^' :  - 
Long  as  this  extract  is,  the  singularity  of  the  situa- 
tion, and  the  liveliness  of  the  description,  have  tempted 
us  to  insert  it.  On  beginning  to  move,  Mr.  Head 
found  his  limbs  stiff  with  cold,  and  an  aching  sensation 
about  his  ancles,  which  made  him  apprehend  that  ho 
should  not  escape  that  painful  consequence  of  his  ap- 
prenticeship iu  snow-shoes,  called  by  the  Canadians 
mal-a-raquette — it  is  a  violent  inflammation  and  swell- 
ing of  the  instep  and  ancles.  But  the  morning  was 
bright  and  clear ;  and  such  is  the  exhilarating  effect  of 
clear  frost,  in  any  endurable  degree,  upon  the  healthy 
frame,  that  he  felt  his  spirits  renovated,  and  new 
strength  and  elasticity  in  his  limbs.  Six  hours  brought 
them  to  Salmon  River,  which  was  twenty-two  miles 
from  the  house  at  which  they  had  slept  last.  Their 
host  was  an  old  soldier,  settled  upon  an  allotment  of 
one  hundred  and  five  acres.  The  next  day  the  ice 
broke  under  one  of  their  guides,  and  he  fell  into  the 
water :  there  was  a  piercing  wind  to  increase  the  sever- 
ity of  the  cold,  and  no  house  within  roach.  They  has- 
tened to  the  bank,  and  kindled  a  fire  with  their  best 
speed — but  the  man's  feet  were  frost-bitten  before  ho 
could  have  the  benefit  of  it.  At  a  moderate  distance 
from  the  fire,  his  companion  rubbed  him  with  snow  till 
the  circulation  returned ;  and  in  little  more  than  half 
an  hour,  he  was  able  to  proceed.  These  men  are  as 
hardy  as  the  bears,  wolves  and  foxes,  whose  territory 
they  have  invaded.  Four  hours  brought  them  to  the 
house  of  a  serjeant  at  the  Grand  Falls,  where  a  smaU 


ADVENTURES   OF   CAPTAIN   HEAD. 


•167 


party  sit 
I  sky  had 

the  situa- 
e  tempted 
Mr.  Head 
r  sensation 
nd  that  he 

of  his  ap- 
Canadians 

and  swell- 
3rning  was 
12;  efifect  of 
the  healthy 
,    and  new 
urs  bronght 
i-tyfo  miles 
ast.     Their 
llotment  of 
lay  the  ice 
ell  into  the 
e  the  sever- 

They  has- 

their  best 
n  before  he 
ate  distance 
ith  snow  till 
■e  than  half 

men  are  as 
)se  territory 

them  to  the 
^here  a  small 


niilitary  establishment,  as  at  Presque  Isle,  was  kept  up 
for  the  sake  of  the  communication.  Mr.  Head  visited 
the  falls,  at  no  little  hazard  ;  but  we  must  refer  the 
reader  to  the  book  itself  for  his  lively  description. — 
The  next  morning  "  broke  clear  and  cold,"  exhibiting, 
he  says,  "  a  loveliness  of  nature  peculiar  to  the  Cana- 
dian climate,  and  sufficient  to  dissipate  every  sensation 
of  pain  and  weariness  :  a  rare  combination  of  frost  and 
sunshine,  such  as,  without  being  seen  and  felt  can 
hardly  be  imagined.  The  wind  was  hushed  to  perfect 
stillness ;  and  as  we  walked  along,  our  hair,  our  seven- 
days'  beard,  and  the  edges  of  our  caps,  our  eyebrows, 
and  even  our  eyelashes,  were  as  white  as  a  powdering  of 
snow  could  make  them.  In  the  mean  time,  the  ^varmth 
of  the  sun  gave  a  sensation  of  peculiar  purity  to  the 
air."  We  have  winter  weather  in  England  in  which 
this  bracing  and  exbilar  iting  cftcct  is  perceptible;  and 
the  same  sense  of  purity  in  tlie  air  is  experienced  in 
summer  on  our  mountains. 

A  journey  of  fifteen  miles  brought  them  to  the  Mad- 
awaska  settlement,  on  the  Grande  Riviere — a  "  nar- 
row strip  of  a  village,"  inhabited  wholly  by  French 
Canadians,  a  people  with  whom  Mr.  Head  had  every 
reason  to  be  well  pleased.  Here  he  was  agreeably  sur- 
prised to  find  he  was  to  be  indulged  with  a  bed ;  that, 
for  the  next  stage  (one  and  twenty  miles,)  the  snow 
was  sufficiently  beaten  to  bear  a  horse  and  sleigh,  and 
that  one  might  be  hired  in  the  village.  Still  more  was 
he  surprised  that,  in  his  helpless  condition,  when  he 
stood  in  such  need  of  such  a  conveyance,  there  was  no 
inclination  in  the  owner  to  extort  from  him  any  thing 
beyond  a  reasonable  price.     Fifteen  shillings  was  the 


468 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


0 


I  •;.'.' 


A  CAKABOO  DEER. 


£ium  which  he  agreed  to  pay ;  for  rather  less  distance, 
and  m  a  better  country,  he  had  been  cheated  into  the 
payment  of  four  pounds  at  Annapolis.  The  snow  was 
so  deep,  the  roads  "  so  partially  broken,"  and  the  ve- 
hicle, though  well  contrived  for  such  travelling,  so 
rough  that  he  would  far  rather  have  walked,  had  it  not 
been  for  the  sake  of  husbanding  his  little  remaining 
strength.  At  the  cost  of  some  half-dozen  overturns, 
liowever,  he  performed  the  stage,  and  was  taken  in  at 
the  house  of  an  inhabitant,  the  auherge  being  full.  A 
dozen  persons  joined  company  with  the  party  here ; 
and  on  the  morrow,  witli  great  satisfaction,  he  saw  his 
Bnow-shocs  fastened  on  the  tohogin — the  remainder  of 


I 


ADVEISTUllES   OP   CAPTAIN   HEAD. 


469 


ss  distance, 
ted  into  the 
le  snow  was 
and  the  ve- 
avelling,  so 
,  had  it  not 
)  remaining 
I  overturns, 
taken  in  at 
mg  full.  A 
party  here ; 
,  he  saw  his 
jmainder  of 


the  way  was  to  bo  performed  in  mocassins :  but  the  re- 
lief came  late,  for  he  was  now  so  lame  that  ho  could 
not  move  a  step  without  considerable  suffering.  Thus 
they  left  St.  Johns,  and  pursued  their  course  along  the 
Madawaska  river.  It  was  a  merry  as  well  as  a  motley 
crew  with  which  he  found  liimsclf  now  associated, 
"  some  at  the  end  and  some  at  the  beginning,  of  their 
respective  journies."  The  former  were  hobbling  and 
limping,  weary  and  way-worn,  with  no  spirits  to  expend 
in  meriment ;  the  latter  smoked  and  hallooed,  and 
whistled  and  sung,  and  pelted  one  another  with  snowballs. 
The  guides  had  procured  largo  dogs  of  the  Newfound- 
land breed  to  draw  tho  tobogins,  and  several  of  these 
great  creatures  were  loo;-e  in  their  train.  They  roused 
a  Caraboo  deer  on  their  way,  gave  chase,  Mr.  Head, 
forgetful  of  his  laraenes?,  joining  with  sucli  ardour  as 
to  make  a  tolerable  race,  killed  him,  and  supped  that 
night  upon  one  of  his  haunclies.  This  was  a  stage  of 
four  and  twenty  miles — that  of  the  next  day  was  twen- 
ty-one ;  and  he  was  now  so  lame  as  to  make  it  a  serious 
undertaking.  It  lay  partly  on  tlic  river,  but  when  the 
ice  became  unsafe,  in  the  forest  along  its  banks — lastly, 
over  Lake  Tamasquatha,  against  a  strong  wind,  when 
it  required  his  utmost  exertions  to  keep  within  any  rea- 
sonable distance  of  the  guides.  They  followed  one 
after  another,  never  caring  for  those  who  were  behind 
— the  foremost  almost  out  of  sight,  and  appearing  like 
little  black  dots  on  the  wide  waste  of  snow  ahead.  At 
length  they  reached  a  house  at  the  extremity  of  the 
lake,  on  the  banks  of  that  portage  (the  word  may  be 
considered  as  Anglicized,)  which  extends  uninterrupt- 
edly from  thence  to  the  high  road  to  Quebec. 

40 


470 


I'ERILOUS   ADVENTUUES. 


0 

0 


No  sooner  had  he  arrived  than  ho  throw  himself  on 
the  boards,  thinking  it  would  bo  impossible  for  him  to 
proceed  the  next  day.  Nor  was  any  refreshment  from 
sleep  to  be  expected :  it  was  manifest  that  sleep  would 
be  murdered  here.  More  travellers  had  already  estab- 
lished themselves  in  these  miserable  quarters.  Thero 
were  six-and-thirty  persons  in  the  room,  including  the 
mistress  of  the  house  and  her  sister ;  these  Avomen 
slept  in  the  same  room  on  a  truckled  bed,  (the  decen- 
cies of  life  being  disregarded  in  these  frontiers  of  civ- 
ilization,) the  rest  lay  on  the  ground,  like  so  many  pigs. 
Mr.  Head's  next  neighbour  was  a  major  in  the  army, 
whom  he  never  saw  before  nor  since,  and  who  did 
nothing  but  groan  all  niglit.  Travelling  in  that  coun- 
try, like  misfortune,  brings  a  man  acquainted  with 
strange  bedfellows  ;  they  had  for  theirs,  besides  the 
travellers  and  the  women,  some  eight  of  the  great 
Newfoundland  dogs,  who  ran  about,  trod  upon  them, 
growled,  quarrelled,  and  were  duiing  the  night  en- 
gaged in  battle  royal ;  t^ie  whole  room  rising  in  arms 
to  part  them,  by  throttling  them  and  biting  the  ends  of 
their  t.iils. 

"The  gabble  of  tongues,"  says  Mr.  Head,  "the 
smell  «f  tobacco  smoke,  and  the  disturbance  altogether, 
was  really  dreadful.  The  women  were  not  silent, 
and  no  matter  who  slept,  some  were  sure  to  be  awake 
and  talking.  I  quite  lost  all  my  patience ;  sometimes 
I  struck  at  the  dogs  as  they  galloped  over  me ;  and  I 
shook  one  follow  by  the  collar  till  he  roared,  who,  in 
tlic  scufi!i>,  li:iil  trodden  on  my  lame  ancles  without  re- 
morse.    The  only  satisfaction  I  had  was  to  think  that 


ADVKNTUllES   OF   CAl'TAlN    HEAD. 


d71 


imself  on 
for  him  to 
mcnt  from 
ccp  would 
ady  estab- 
s.     There 
sluding  tho 
se   women 
(the  deccn- 
Ici's  of  civ- 
many  pigs, 
the  army, 
id  who  did 
1  that  coun- 
aintcd  with 
besides  the 
)f  the  great 
upon  them, 
le  night  cn- 
sing  in  arms 
T  the  ends  of 


Head,  "the 
ce  altogether, 
3  not  silent, 
to  be  awake 
c ;  sometimes 
er  me  ;  and  I 
tared,  who,  in 
es  without  re- 
to  think  that 


the  pain  I  was  in  would  alone,  witliout  the  noise,  have 
been  sufficient  to  keep  me  from  sleeping." 

After  another  day's  long  march  they  reached  a  rest- 
ing place,  within  nine  miles  of  the  end  of  tho  pedes- 
trian journey;  but  by  this  time  his  feet  were  swollen 
to  a  great  size :  the  Canadians  assured  him  that  he 
had  got  the  nial-a-raqiiettc,  and  he  lay  awake  all  night, 
in  the  miserable  loghouse,  thinking  how  unlucky  ho 
was  thus  to  be  foot-foundered  when  so  Httle  a  part  of 
the  way  remained  to  be  accomplished  by  walking. 
^V^hen  morning  came,  however,  he  found  himself  better 
ablo  to  endure  the  pain  of  exertion,  however  great,  than 
to  remain  patiently  Avhcro  he  was.  lie  relied  on  the 
asaistauco  of  his  servant,  who  was  still  strong  and 
able,  and  sot  out  accordingly,  though  the  trial  was  the 
severest  Avhich  he  had  undergone,  for  the  inflammation  in 
his  feet  and  ancles  was  so  acute  as  exactly  to  resemble 
the  pain  of  the  gout;  merely  to  set  his  feet  to  the 
ground  was  torture,  and  the  slightest  twist,  when  he 
trod  in  the  holes  made  in  the  hard  snow  by  the  foot- 
steps of  former  travellers,  increased  it:  sometimes  h:. 
was  obliged  to  lie  down  in  the  snow  for  relief,  though 
the  intense  cold  obliged  him  to  rise  almost  immediately; 
but  by  the  servant's  lielp,  after  eight  hours  of  this  exer- 
tion, he  arrived  at  the  village  of  Rivi(ire  de  Loup,  with 
a  proper  sense  of  thankfulness  at  having  thus  accom- 
plished what  he  had  more  than  once  despaired  of.  It 
was  only  six  miles  to  Riviere  de  Cape,  where  there  was 
a  good  inn,  and  a  sleigh  might  be  procured  to  take  him 
there.  Beset  as  he  was  witii  a  pack  of  dirty  com- 
panions, he  ordered  it  to  be  got  ready,  and  made  a  last 
eflfort  to  crawl  into  it,  ready,  he  says,  tO  endure  any 


472 


PERILOUS    ADVENTUKES 


0 

0 


thing  so  he  could  but  free  himself  from  his  present 
associates.  On  reaching  the  inn,  ho  found  a  humane 
and  attentive  hostess,  a  good  arm-chair,  a  comfortable 
meal,  and  other  such  indulgences  as  never  before  had 
been  so  seasonable  and  so  welcome.  It  is  remarkable 
that  ease  of  mind  brought  with  it  immediate  ease  of 
body ;  though  not  at  the  end  of  his  journey,  he  was  at 
the  end  of  all  those  difficulties  which  it  required  bodily 
exertions  to  cope  with,  and  all  pain  left  him  that  even- 
ing. He  slept  well,  breakfasted  well,  and  set  oflf  in 
buoyant  spirits,  in  a  post  cariole  (or  small  sleigh  drawn 
by  one  horse),  on  a  good  and  well-beaten  road.  Sixty 
miles  he  posted  that  day,  and  reached  Listet  half-frozen ; 
the  weather  being  intensely  cold  but  clear,  and  the 
glories  of  the  evening  such,  he  says,  as  a  winter 
sunset  in  Canada  can  alone  produce.  Fifty-one  miles  of 
the  same  sort  of  travelling  brought  him,  on  the  following 
day,  to  Point  Levi,  an  uncomfortable  passage-house  on 
the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  where  the  river  is  a 
mile  and  a  half  wide,  and  opposite  to  Quebec. 

In  the  morning,  looking  from  his  window  on  the 
river  he  saw  it  ''  frozen  on  each  bank  at  least  three  or 
four  hundred  yards  from  the  shore,  and  the  channel 
filled  with  pieces  of  ice  driven  forward  and  backward 
by  the  eddies  of  an  impetuous  tide ;  these  were  rising 
9ne  above  another,  twisting  round  and  round,  sinking, 
labouring,  and  heaving,  by  the  action  of  a  current  run- 
ning at  the  rate  of  seven  knots  an  hour.  Sometimes 
there  was  a  space  of  clear  water,  wherein  enormous 
flakes,  of  a  superficies  of  three  or  four  thousand  square 
yards,  would  glide  by ;  huge  lumps,  as  big  as  a  stage 
coach  and  all  its  passengers,  would  roll  over  and  over, 


OP   CAPTAIN    1I1;AD    IN    CANADA. 


473 


present 
liumano 
fortablo 
ore  had 
ark  able 
ease  of 
J  was  at 
a  bodily 
at  even- 
it  oflF  in 
h  drawn 
Sixty 
'-frozen ; 
and  the 
I  winter 
miles  of 
bllowing 
louse  on 
ver  is  a 

on  the 
three  or 
channel 
lackward 
re  rising 
sinking, 
rent  run- 
>metimes 
mormons 
d  square 
I  a  stage 
,nd  over, 


and  tumble  in  various  directions,  now  and  then  sinking 
altogether^  and  afterwards  rising  several  yards  a-hcad ; 
large  masses  would  meet,  and  drive  against  each  other 
with  a  tremendous  crasli,  piling  flake  upon  flake,  and 
presenting  a  most  awful  spectacle, — the  more  interesting, 
as  it  was  my  business  to  cross  over  that  very  day." 

As  the  ice  was  expected  every  day  to  set,  (the 
weather  being  more  than  ordinarily  severe,)  when  it 
would  be  possible  for  sleighs  to  pass,  a  traveller,  less 
impatient  of  delay  than  Mr.  Head,  would  have  waited 
where  he  was,  unless  his  business  had  been  more  urgent. 
The  passage  he  was  told  was  difficult,  but  practicable, 
and  with  very  little  danger;  and  the  time  for  attempt- 
ing it,  at  slack  water.  He  engaged  a  log  canoe,  after 
a  hard  bargain,  for  thirty  shillings;  the  canoe  was 
nothing  more  than  some  fifteen  feet  of  an  entire  tree, 
rounded  at  both  ends  alike,  and  hollowed  by  the  adze. 
Six  boatmen,  each  with  an  axe  in  his  sash,  and  a  pad- 
dle in  his  hand,  dragged  it  from  the  shore,  over  the  ice, 
to  the  edge  of  the  water,  chopping  away  the  last  six 
or  eight  feet  of  unsound  ice  with  their  axes,  till  the 
head  of  the  canoe  was  brought  close  above  the  water. 
The  tide  was  nearly  at  ebb,  but  the  ice  continually  in 
violent  motion,  and  the  appearance  very  formidable. 
He  and  his  man  embarked  as  they  were  directed ;  sat 
down  at  the  bottom  of  the  canoe,  in  midships,  in  readi- 
ness for  a  launch;  a  large  flake  floated  by,  leaving 
them  a  clear  channel  of  about  one  hundred  yards  across : 
tenez  ferme!  cried  the  boatmen,  pushed  the  canoe 
plump  into  the  water,  a  fall  of  about  two  feet,  and 
instantly  they  were  all  on  board,  each  in  his  place,  and 
paddling  with  might  and  main,  to  avoid  a  large  piece 

40* 


474 


PEIIILOUS    Ain'lhVTUUHS 


0 

0 


of  ice  then  bcarhi/;  down  upon  them,  and  to  gain  a 
frozen  Hurfaco  right  a-head.  8ii(3ceedin;^  in  this,  out 
they  jumped,  dragged  the  canoe  by  a  ro[)0  at  her  iicacl 
out  of  the  Avater,  puslied  her  over  tiiis  .sheet  of  ice, 

some  hundred  and  fifty  yards,)  then  hiunehed  her  a 
second  time,  but  in  thi.s  hiunch  the  passengers  wero 
sphished  all  over,  and  the  water  immediately  froze  on 
their  clothes. 

"  But  wo  had  not  time  to  shake  ourselves,  for  a  largo 
quantity  of  loose  ice,  which  appeared  just  to  have  risen 
up  from  the  bottom  of  the  river,  Avas  bearing  down  upon 
us  in  a  very  formidable  manner.  The  men  paddled, 
and  strained,  and  abused  each  other,  but  all  would  not 
do,  and  we  Avere  in  a  very  few  seconds  hemmed  in  and 
jammed  on  both  sides  by  a  soft  pulpy  mass,  together 
with  Avliich  Ave  Avere  helplessly  carried  aAvay  by  the 
current  sideAvise  from  the  point  Ave  Avere  endeavouring 
to  reach.  I  could  not  help  admiring  the  determination 
and  address  of  the  men  at  this  moment;  for  they 
jumped  out,  above  their  knees  in  Avater,  sometimes  up 
to  their  hips,  Avhile  they  used  their  utmost  strength  to 
drag  the  canoe  forAvard  by  the  rope.  Although  the 
surface  gave  Avay  continually  under  their  feet,  letting 
them  doAvn  upon  the  large  slabs  of  ice  which  Avere 
floating  underneath,  they  managed,  by  pulling  and 
hauling,  and  Avith  their  axes  occasionally  cutting  and 

reaking  aAvay  the  obstructing  blocks  Avhich  stood  in 
their  Avay,  to  get  free  of  all  impediments,  and  gain  once 
more  a  channel  of  clear  Avater. 

"While  this  was  going  forAvard,  it  aa'qs  extremely 
annoying  to  be  perfectly  helpless  in  the  midst  of  so 
much  bustle  and  energy ;  and  Avhen  the  fellows  shouted 


to  gain  a 
this,  out 
i  hor  head 
ct  of  ice, 
hed  her  a 
igers  wero 
y  froze  ou 

for  a  large 
have  risen 
(loNvn  upon 
n  paddled, 
I  would  not 
mod  in  and 
38,  together 
ivay  by  the 
idcavouring 
^termination 
t;    for  they 
jmetimes  up 
,  strength  to 
Ithough  the 
feet,  letting 
which  were 
pulling   and 
cutting  and 
lich  stood  in 
nd  gain  once 

as  extremely 
I  midst  of  BO 
Hows  shouted 


ta 
feq 
n 


0 

0 


'■'*  '(^ 


•i  ■:''' 


OF  CAPTAIN    HEAD    IN    CANADA. 


477 


**  Branlez  !  sacre  Dieu,  hranlez  !  tbey  meant  that  we 
should  rock  the  canoe  from  side  to  Side  as  we  sat,  to 
prevent  het-  freezing  on  to  the  ice,  which  disaster  was 
only  to  be  avoided  by  keeping  her  in  continual  motion. 
If  this  had  taken  place,  the  consequences  might  have 
been  serious,  as  the  day  was  intensely  cold,  and  we 
must  have  floated  away,  with  no  very  great  chance  of 
assistance.  However,  by  the  skill  of  the  men  we 
avoided  it,  and  the  thirty  shillings  were  certainly  fairly 
earned,  for  they  \rere  three  or  four  minutes  at  this  spell 
m  the  water,  sometimes  up  to  their  knees,  and  now  and 
then  nearly  up  to  their  middle.  It  seems  almost  incre- 
dible that  men  should  be  able  to  work  at  all  upon  ice 
80  unsound  as  not  to  afford  a  surface  capable  of  sup- 
porting the  weight  of  the  body ;  but  on  their  part  there 
geemed  to  be  no  sort  of  apprehension  of  absolute  danger, 
owing  to  the  vast  thickness  of  the  floating  substance,  a 
comparatively  small  part  of  which  was,  as  they  knew, 
that  which  appeared  above  the  water ;  and  there  was 
invariably  a  lower  stratum,  upon  which  they  were  re- 
ceived and  supported  as  often  as  they  sank  in. 

"  Such  was  the  manner  of  making  the-  passage 
across  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  season  of  the 
year  and  under  such  circumstances  as  it  happened  to 
me  to  undertake  it ;  and  I  have  only  to  add,  that  the 
time  occupied  in  going  across  was  somewhat  more  than 
an  hour,  and  that  the  varieties  already  cited  followed 
each  other  in  rapid  succession,  till  the  moment  of  our 
disembarkation  at  the  opposite  shore.  At  one  time 
we  were  in  clear  water ;  the  next  moment  struggling 
through  congelated  heaps  of  melted  snow ;  then  rapidly 
driven  along  over  sheets  of  ice,  and  pushed  over  ob 


478 


ri; 


ai)vf.:;turks. 


0 

0 


structing  blocks, .wliicli  opposed  our  progress  in  ridges 
seven  or  eight  feet  iiigli.  The  Canadians  were,  how- 
ever, indefatigable  :  every  obstacle,  so  soon  as  encoun- 
tered, was  surmounted  in  a  moment.  Hard  ice  was 
hewn  doAvn  with  the  hatchets.  They  were  active  as 
ants :  all  was  energy,  spring,  and  bustle.  They  wero 
in  the  canoe  and  out  of  the  canoe,  paddling  and  cutting, 
pushing  with  the  boat-hook,  and  hauling  on  the  rope, 
all  with  instantaneous  impulse,  and  appliance  of  strength 
in  different  ways,  and  with  the  most  effective  success." 
Well  might  he  rejoice  at  finding  himself,  after  such 
a  passage,  safely  landed  in  Quebec,  though  so  stiff 
with  cold  as  scarcely  to  be  able  to  move,  and  so  in- 
crusted  with  ice  as  to  be  as  much  like  an  armadillo,  ho 
says,  (if  armadillos  carried  the  os  sublime,  and  the 
erectos  ad  sidera  vultua,)  as  a  human  being.  The 
difficulties  and  miseries  of  his  journey  were  now  at  an 
end.  -  .  ,    .     V  ...M  .  -  .      , 


i: 


in  ridges 

ere,  how- 

s  encoun- 

,  ice  was 

active  as 

Dhey  wero 

d  cutting, 

the  rope, 

f  strength 

success." 

after  such 

;h  so  stiff 

and  so  in- 

nadillo,  ho 

1,  and  the 

jing.     The 

no^Y  at  an 


JUNa  BAHADOOB,  THE  NEPAULESE  AMBASSADOR. 


0 

0 


r 
\    I 


t^iij 


0 

0 


; 


C5 

y.  -T* 
a  -■ 

cu  ■ — 

H 

>J 
H 


ADVENTURES  OF  AN  ENGLISH  TRAVELLER 
AT  AN  ELEPHANT   HUNT   IN  NEPAUL. 

R.  LAWRENCE  OLIPIIANT  in 

his  recent  account*  of  his  journey 
with  tlie  cauip  of  the  Nepaulese 
ambassador,  Jung  Bahadoor,  who 
returnsd  from  England  in  1850| 
gives  the  following  very  lively  ac, 
count  of  an  elephant  hunt  on  a 
great  scale  near  Hetowra,  and  not  very  far  from  Kat- 
mandu, the  capital  of  Nepaul.  The  narrative  presents 
many  novel  and  highly  interesting  features.  We  quota 
his  words : 

"  We  found  our  camp  prettily  situated  at  the  village 
of  Hetowra,  on  the  Rapti,  surrounded  by  hills  clothed 

*  A  journey  to  Katmandu  (the  capital  of  Nepaul)  with  the  camp 
of  Jung  Bahadoor ;  including  a  sketch  of  the  Nepaulese  ambassador 
at  home.  Bj'  Lawrence  Oliphant.  New  York,  D.  Appleton  &  Go. 
1862. 


41 


(481) 


482 


PERILOUS   ADVENTUllEri. 


0 


to  their  summits  with  evergreen  jungle  not  unlike  those 
I  had  lately  left  in  Ceylon. 

"  The  Minister  Sahib,  having  received  information 
that  a  herd  of  wild  elephants  were  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, paid  us  a  visit  immediately  on  our  arrival  at  camp, 
m  a  great  state  of  excitement,  and  enjoined  upon  us  the 
necessity  of  an  early  start  if  we  wished  to  partake  of  a 
sport  which  he  promised  would  exceed  any  thing  we  had 
ever  witnessed,  and  prove  such  as  no  European  had 
ever  before  had  an  opportunity  of  joining  in. 

"  I  was  aroused  about  3  on  the  following  morning, 
by  the  tune  of  the  'British  Grenadiers,'  played  by  the 
bands  of  the  two  regiments,  which  marched  past  my 
tent  on  their  way  to  beat  the  jungle,  and  I  wondered 
whether  its  composer  ever  imagined  that  its  inspiriti.ig 
effects  would  be  exercised  upon  men  bound  on  so  sin- 
gular a  duty  as  those  whose  tramp  we  now  heard 
becoming  fainter  and  fainter  as  they  wound  up  the 
valley.  This  was  a  signal  for  us  to  abandon  our  mat- 
tresses, which  were  always  spread  on  the  ground,  in 
default  of  a  four-poster,  but  were  none  the  less  comfort- 
able or  fascinating  to  their  drowsy  occupants  on  that 
account.  It  was  necessary  to  make  such  a  morning's 
meal  as  should  be  sufficient  to  last  24  hours.  This  was 
rather  a  difficult  matter  at  that  early  hour,  as  we  had 
eaten  a  large  dinner  over-night :  however,  we  accom- 
plished it  to  the  best  of  our  power,  and,  jumping  into 
our  howdah,  soon  overtook  Jung,  whom  we  accompanied 
to  what  was  to  be  the  scene  of  action,  a  thick  saul  jun- 
gle on  the  banks  of  the  Curroo  Nuddee,  here  a  consid- 
erable stream.  V     ,  -^     '        ,    . 

"  Down  a  hill  before  us,  and  by  a  particular  pass,  the 


1 


ELEPHANT    HUNTING    IN    NEPAUL. 


483 


unlike  tliosc 

information 
le  neighbour- 
rival  at  camp, 
d  upon  us  tlio 
>  partake  of  a 
r  thing  we  hat! 
Suropean  had 

;  in. 

ring  morning, 
played  by  the 
ched  past  my 
,nd  I  wondered 
,  its  inspiritLig 
)und  on  so  sin- 
vre  now  heard 
■wound  up  the 
indon  our  mat- 
the  ground,  in 
;he  less  comfort- 
•upants  on  that 
iich  a  morning's 
ours.    This  was 
hour,  as  we  had 
ever,  we  accom- 
id,  jumping  into 
.  we  accompanied 
a  thick  saul  jun- 
je,  here  a  consid- 

irtioular  pass,  the 


wild  elephants  were  to  be  driven  by  the  united  efforts 
of  the  gallant  rilio  corps,  a  regiment  of  infantry,  and  a 
hundred  elephants ;  while  our  party,  which  comprised 
an  equal  number  of  these  animals,  was  prepared  to 
receive  their  brethren  of  the  woods. 

"  Our  patience  as  sportsmen  was  destined  to  be 
severely  tried,  and  mid-day  came  without  any  elephants 
having  made  their  appearance :  we  therefore  lit  a  huge 
fire,  and,  dismounting,  partook  with  Jung  of  some  very 
nice  sweet  biscuits  and  various  specimens  of  native  con- 
fectionery, declining  the  green  looking  mutton  wliich 
was  kindly  pressed  upon  us.  Had  the  elephants  chosen 
that  moment  to  come  down  upon  us,  a  curious  scone 
must  have  ensued :  Jung's  grapes  would  have  gone 
one  way,  and  his  curry-powder  the  other — ho  was 
?ating  grapes  and  curry-powder  at  the  time ;  and  his 
Orothor,  who  was  toasting  a  large  piece  of  mutton  on  a 
reed,  must  have  either  burnt  his  mouth  or  lost  the  pre- 
vious morsel :  however,  the  elephants  did  not  come,  so 
Jung  fmislic'd  his  ,irrapes  and  curry-powder,  and  his 
brother  waited  till  the  mutton  was  cool,  ate  it  in  peace, 
and  went  through  the  necessary  ablutions.  He  then 
gave  me  a  lesson  in  cutting  down  trees  with  a  kukii,  a 
sort  of  bill-hook,  in  the  use  of  which  the  Nepaulese  are 
peculiarly  expert,  'i'he  Minister  Sahib  at  one  stroke 
cut  th;ou;xh  a  saul-trt'C  which  was  13  inches  in  circum- 
ference, while  suniliy  unsuccessful  attempts  which  1 
made  on  very  small  branches  created  great  amusement 
among  the  by-standcrs  skilled  in  the  use  of  the  weapon. 

"  At  last  a  dro})i)ing  shot  or  two  were  heard  in  the 
distance :  this  was  the  signal  of  the  approach  of  the 
herd,  and  I  was  put  by  the  minister  through  the  exer- 


484 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


ciscs  necessary  to  l)o  acquired  before  commencing  the 
novel  cliace. 

'  Taking  oft'niy  shoes  and  tying  a  towel  round  my  head, 
I  was  told  to  suppose  an  immense  branch  to  bo  in  front 
of  mo,  and  was  taught  to  escape  its  sweeping  effects  by 
sliding  down  the  crupper  of  the  elephant,  and  keeping 
the  whole  of  my  body  below  the  level  of  his  back,  thus 
allowing  the  branch  to  pass  within  an  inch  above  with- 
out touching  me.  In  the  same  manner,  upon  a  branch 
threatening  me  from  the  right  or  left,  it  was  necessary 
to  throw  myself  on  the  opposite  side,  hanging  only  by 
my  hands,  and  swinging  myself  into  my  original  posi- 
tion by  a  most  violent  exertion,  which  required  at  the 
same  time  considerable  knack.  Having  perfected  my- 
self in  these  accomplishments  to  the  utmost  of  my 
power,  I  awaited  in  patience  the  arrival  of  the  ele- 
phants. 

"  Looking  round,  I  saw  Jung  himself,  seated  in  the 
place  of  the  mahout,  guiding  the  elephant  which  ho 
bestrode  very  cleverly.  When  silence  was  required, 
ho  made  a  peculiar  clucking  noise  Avith  his  tongue ; 
whereupon  these  docile  creatures  immediately  became 
still  and  motionless :  one  would  drop  the  tuft  of  grass 
which  ho  was  tearing  up,  another  would  stop  instantly 
from  shaking  the  dust  out  of  the  roots  which  he  was 
pvcparing  to  eat,  others  left  off  chewing  their  food. 
^\'iicn  a  fcAv  seconds  of  the  most  perfect  calm  had 
elapsed,  the  rooting  up  and  dusting  out  went  on  more 
1;  i<k]y  than  ever,  and  the  mouthful  was  doubly  sweet 
to  those  who  were  now  allowed  to  finish  the  noisy  pro- 
cess of  mastication. 


ELEPHANT   HUNTING    IN   NEPAUL. 


485 


[timencing  the 

round  my  head, 
I  to  be  in  front 
ping  effects  by 
it,  and  keeping 
[  his  back,  thus 
ich  above  with- 
upon  a  branch 
t  was  necessary 
anging  only  by 
ly  original  posi- 
required  at  the 
g  perfected  my- 
:  utmost  of  my 
ival  of  the  cle- 

If,  seated  in  the 
phant  which  ho 
•e  was  required, 
vith  his  tongue; 
K'diatety  became 
the  tuft  of  grass 
dd  stop  instantly 
3ts  which  he  was 
•wing  their  food, 
perfect  calm  had 
Dut  went  on  more 
was  doubly  sweet 
ish  the  noisy  pro- 


"  At  last  our  patience  was  rewarded,  and  Jung  gave 
the  signal  for  us  to  advance.* 

"  On  each  elephant  there  were  now  two  riders,  the 
mahout  and  a  man  behind,  who,  armed  with  a  piece  of 
hard  wood  into  which  two  or  three  spikes  were  inserted, 
hammered  the  animal  about  the  root  of  the  tail  as  with 
a  mallet.  lie  was  furnished  with  a  looped  rope  to  hold 
on  by,  and  a  sack  stuffed  with  straAv  to  sit  upon,  and 
was  expected  to  belabour  the  elephant  with  one  hand, 
while  he  kept  himself  on  its  back  with  the  other. 

"  This  was  the  position  I  filled  on  this  trying  occa- 
sion ;  but  my  elephant  fared  well  as  regards  the  instru- 
ment of  torture,  for  I  was  much  too  fully  occupied  in 
taking  care  of  myself  to  think  of  using  it.  Away  wo 
went  at  full  speed,  jostling  one  another  up  banks  and 
through  streams,  and  I  frequently  was  all  but  jolted 
off  the  diminutive  sack  which  ought  to  have  formed  my 
seat,  but  did  not,  for  I  found  it  impossible  to  sit. 
Being  quite  unable  to  maintain  my  position  for  two 
moments  together,  I  looked  upon  it  as  a  miracle  that 
every  bone  in  my  body  was  not  broken.  Sometimes  I 
was  suddenly  jerked  into  a  sitting  posture,  and  not 
being  able  to  get  my  heels  from  under  me  in  time,  they 
received  a  violent  blow.  A  moment  after  I  was  thrown 
forward  on  my  face,  only  righting  myself  in  time  to 
see  a  huge  impending  branch,  Avhich  I  had  to  escape 
by  slipping  rapidly  down  the  crupper,  taking  all  the 
skin  off  my  toes  in  so  doing,  and,  what  Avould  have 
been  more  serious,  the  branch  nearly  taking  my  head 
off  if  I  did  not  stoop  low  enough.  When  I  could  look 
about  me,  the  scene  was  most  extraordinary  and  inde- 
scribable: a  hundred  elephants  were  tearing  through 

41* 


486 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


0 

0 


the  jungle  as  rapidly  as  their  unAvioldy  forms  would  Icu 
them,  crushing  clown  tlio  heavy  jungle  in  their  headlong 
career,  while  their  riders  were  gesticulating  violently, 
cacli  man  punishing  his  elephant,  or  making  a  bolster 
of  himself  as  he  flung  his  body  on  one  side  or  the  other 
to  avoid  branches  ;  while  some,  Ducrow-like,  and  con- 
fident in  their  activity,  were  standing  on  the  bare  backs 
of  their  elephants,  holding  only  by  the  looped  rope, — 
ft  feat  I  found  easy  enough  in  the  open  country,  but 
fearfully  dangerous  in  the  jungle.  A  few  yards  in 
front  of  us  was  ft  wild  elephant  with  her  young  one, 
both  going  away  in  fine  style,  the  pace  being  8  or  \) 
miles  an  hour.  I  was  just  beginning  to  appreciate  the 
sport,  and  was  contemplating  hammering  my  elephant 
so  as  to  be  up  amongst  the  foremost,  when  we,  in  com 
pany  with  about  half  a  dozen  others,  suddenly  disap- 
peared from  the  scene.  A  nullah,  or  deep  drain,  hid- 
den in  the  long  grass,  had  engulfed  elephants  and 
riders.  The  suddenness  of  the  shock  unseated  me,  but 
fortuna^tely  I  did  not  lose  my  hold  of  the  rope,  and 
more  fortunately  still  my  elephant  did  not  roll  over, 
but,  balancing  himself  on  his  knees,  with  the  assistance 
of  his  trunk,  made  a  violent  effort,  and  succeeded  in 
getting  out  of  his  uncomfortable  position. 

"  The  main  body  of  the  chacc  had  escaped  this  nullah 
by  going  round  the  top  of  it ;  but  we  were  not  so  much 
thrown  out  as  I  expected,  for  wc  arrived  in  time  to  see 
ihe  wild  elephant  charging  and  struggling  in  the  midst 
of  her  pursuers,  who,  after  several  attempts,  finally 
succeeded  in  noosing  her,  and  dragging  her  away  in 
triumph  between  two  tame  elephants,  each  attached 
to  the  wild  one  by  a  rope,  and  pulling  different  ways 


ELEPUANT  nUNTINu    IN   NEPAUt. 


487 


rms  would  Icu 
heir  headlong 
ing  violently, 
king  a  bolster 
le  or  the  other 
-like,  and  con- 
the  bare  bacl<3 
looped  rope, — 
n  country,  but 

few  yards  in 
her  young  one, 
;  being  8  or  \) 

appreciate  the 
ig  my  elephant 
icn  we,  in  com 
3uddenly  disap- 
deep  drain,  hid- 

elephants  and 
nseated  me,  but 
r  the  rope,  and 
1  not  roll  over, 
;h  the  assistance 
\d  succeeded  in 

m. 

japed  this  nullah 
rere  not  so  much 
ed  in  time  to  see 
ing  in  the  midst 
attempts,  finally 
ing  her  away  in 
s,  each  attached 
ig  different  ways 


whenever  she  was  inclined  to  bo  unmanageable.  I  wa8 
watching  the  struggles  which  the  huge  beast  made,  and 
wondering  how  the  young  one,  who  was  generally 
almost  under  the  mother,  had  escaped  being  crushed  in 
the  melde,  when  a  perfect  roll  of  small  arms  turned  our 
attention  to  another  quarter,  and  I  saw  an  elephant 
with  an  imposing  pair  of  tusks  charging  down  upon  us 
through  a  square  of  soldiers,  which  had  just  been  bro- 
ken by  it,  and  who  wore  now  taking  to  the  trees  in  all 
directions.  I  ought  to  remark,  lest  the  gallant  rifle- 
men should  be  under  the  imputation  of  want  of  valour 
in  this  proceeding,  that  they  were  only  allowed  .to  fire 
blank  cartridge.  The  elephant  next  to  me  stood  the 
brunt  of  the  charge,  which  was  pretty  severe,  while 
mine  created  a  diversion  by  butting  him  violently  in 
the  side,  and,  being  armed  with  a  formidable  pair  of 
tusks,  made  a  considerable  impression;  the  wild  one 
was  soon  completely  overpowered  by  numbers,  after 
throwing  up  his  trunk,  and  charging  wildly  in  all  direc- 
tions. Of  the  violence  of  one  of  these  charges  I  have 
retained  visible  proof,  for  a  splintered  tusk,  whic'.  had 
been  broken  short  off  in  the  combat,  was  after  »*ds 
picked  up  and  given  to  me  as  a  trophy.  Having  suc- 
ceeded in  noosing  this  elephant  also,  we  were  dragging 
him  away  in  the  usual  manner  between  two  others, 
when  he  snapped  one  of  the  ropes  and  started  off,  pull- 
ing after  him  the  elephant  that  still  remained  attached 
to  him,  and  dashed  through  the  jungle  at  full  speed, 
notwithstanding  the  struggles  of  the  involuntary  com- 
panion of  his  flight.  For  a  moment  I  feared  that  the 
courage  of  the  mahout  would  give  way  in  the  pell-mell 
career,  and  that  he  would  slip  the  rope  which  bound 


188 


P£IIIL0US  ADVESIURES. 


0 

0 


A  TOVKa  ZUFEAm. 


the  two  animals  together.  But  he  held  on  manfully 
and  after  another  exciting  chace  we  succeeded  in  sur 
rounding  the  maddened  monster ;  my  elephant  jostled 
him  so  closely  that  I  could  touch  him  as  we  went  neck 
and  neck.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  the  elephants 
never  seem  to  think  of  uncurling  their  trunks,  and 
sweeping  their  persecutors  from  tlic  backs  of  their  tame 
brethren :  this  they  have  never  been  known  to  do, 
though  it  has  not  unfrequcntly  occurred  that  a  wild 
herd  have  proved  more  than  a  match  for  a  tame  one, 
and  then  there  is  nothing  for  it  but  to  turn  and  make 
off  in  an  ignominious  retreat  as  fast  as  the  blows  of  the 
mahouts  can  urge  Ihem.  It  is  only  under  thoso  circum- 
stances that  there  is  any  danger  to  the  riders,  and  such 
an  occurrence  can  take  place  only  when  the  tame  herd 
is.  small,  and  encounters  an  unusually  large  numbtir  of 


b 
wl 

tlJ 
hi 


J 


ELEPHANT    HUNTING    IN    NEPAUL. 


489 


in  manfully 
jcded  in  sur 
-)liant  jostled 
^e  went  neck 
le  elephants 

trunks,  and 
of  their  tame 
nown  to  do, 

that  a  wild 

a  tame  one, 

.u-n  and  make 

e  blows  of  the 

tho?*^  circum- 
lers,  and  such 
the  tame  herd 
ge  number  of 


the  wild  elephants.     Upon  this  occasion  we  mustered 
so  strong  that  defeat  was  out  of  the  question. 

"  We  now  heard  a  terrific  bellowing  at  a  short  dis- 
tance, which,  in  my  ignorance,  I  thought  proceeded 
from  a  huge  tusker  making  a  gallant  resistance  some 
where ;  I  Avas  rather  disappointed  therefore,  to  find 
that  the  object  of  interest  to  a  large  group  of  men  and 
elephants  was  only  a  young  one  struggling  on  his  back 
in  a  deep  hole  into  which  he  had  fallen,  and  from 
which  he  Avas  totally  unable  to  extricate  himself.  Lying 
on  his  back,  and  kicking  his  logs  wildly  about  in  the 
air,  he  looked  the  most  ridiculous  object  imaginable, 
and  certainly  made  more  noise  in  proportion  to  his  size 
than  any  baby  I  ever  heard.  So  incessant  was  his 
roaring  that  we  could  scarcely  hear  each  other  speak ; 
at  last,  by  means  of  ropes  attached  to  various  parts  of 
his  body,  and  by  dint  of  a  great  deal  of  pulling  and 
hauling,  we  extricated  the  unfortunate  infant  from  his 
awkward  position. 

"  The  poor  little  animal  had  not  had  a  long  life 
before  experiencing  its  ups  and  downs,  and  it  now 
looked  excessively  bewildered  at  not  finding  its  mother, 
who  had  escaped  with  the  rest  of  the  herd.  He  was 
soon  consoled,  however,  by  being  allotted  to  a  tame 
natron,  who  did  not  seem  particularly  pleased  at 
being  thus  installed  in  the  office  of  foster  mother 
whether  she  liked  it  or  not. 

"  We  now  all  jogged  home  in  great  spirits,  and, 
though  Jung  professed  himself  dissatisfied  with  only 
having  captured  four  out  of  a  herd  of  twelve,  we  were 
perfectly  contented  with  a  day's  work  which  my  elc- 


490 


PEllILOUS    ADVENTUKKS. 


phant-shooting  experience  in  Ceyljn  had  never  seen 
equalled,  and  -which  so  fully  realized  the  promise  made 
by  the  Minister  at  starting,  that  Ave  should  be  the  first 
to  partake  of  a  sport  to  be  met  Avith  only  in  the  noble 
orests  of  his  native  country. 


0 

0 


d  never  seen 
promise  matlo 
Id  be  the  first 
T  in  the  noble 


J&PANtSB  COSTUMES. 


ADVENTURES   OF   CAPTAIN   GOLOWNIN'S 
PARTY   IN   JAPAN. 


N  April,  1811,  captain 
Golo^Ynin,  of  the  Rus- 
siim  navy,  was  ordered 
by  his  rovernraent  to  sur- 
vey  the  coast  of  Tatary 
northward  to  Okotsk,  and 
the  Kurilo  Islands,  the 
southernmost  of  which 
arc  in  the  possession  of 
the  Japanese.      Having 


492 


III'*'  *'    /^\'"C'         *  1\T*I'V*'T^T'  t'^'C 


0 

0 


ventured  on  shore  on  one  of  these  isUinds,  lie  was  taken 
prisoner  "with  tAvo  of  his  officers,  and  four  seamen,  and 
sent  to  Matsmai.  The  immediate  cause  cT  ^his  severe 
proceeding  was  not  the  jealous  policy  of  the  Japanese 
government,  but  the  unprovoked  outrages  committed 
by  a  Russian  captain,  who  a  few  years  before  had 
attacked  the  Japanese  villages  on  those  islands.  Gol- 
ownin  observes,  that  during  his  journey  soutlnvards 
along  the  coast  to  Chacodado,  a  distance  exceeding  50G 
miles,  he  beheld  populous  villages  on  every  bay  and 
creek.  During  the  summer  the  people  reside  in  leaf 
huts,  built  between  these  villages  ;  the  whole  population 
is  employed  in  catching,  salting,  and  drying  fish ;  they 
likswise  gather  a  kind  of  sea  weed,  which  grows  in 
great  abundance  on  the  coast,  and  which  the  Russians 
call  sea  cabbage.  This  weed  is  spread  upon  the  sands 
to  dry,  then  collected  into  heaps  resembling  hay-cocks, 
and  covered. with  matting,  until  the  time  arrives  for 
loading  the  vessels  which  carry  it  to  Niphon.  The 
Kurile  villages  consist  of  small  huts,  without  gardens 
or  plantations,  and  have  an  appearduce  of  extreme 
poverty ;  but  the  Japanese  villages  present  a  very 
different  aspect.  They  are  large  ;  have  regular  streets  : 
and  the  houses  are  very  neatly  constructed  of  wood. 
Every  house  has  a  garden,  and  many  are  furnished 
with  orchards.  The  cleanliness  which  prevails  in  the 
treets  and  houses  filled  the  Russians  with  astonishment. 
The  inhabitants  are  extremely  vivacious,  and  content- 
ment seems  painted  on  every  visage. 

The  southern  Kuriles  appear  to  be  a  different  race 
from  those  who  inhabit  the  islands  claimed  by  Russia. 
They  are  tall  and  strongly  made,  very  active,  and  far 


ADVEN'tUUKS    IN    JAPAN. 


493 


was  taken 
uncn,  and 
,'iiis  severe 
Japanese 
committed 
tefovo  had 
ids.     Gol- 
jutlnvavds 
ieding  50G 
y  bay  and 
ide  in  leaf 
population 
fish;  they 
I  grows  in 
e  Russians 
1  the  sands 
hay-cocks, 
arrives  for 
)hon.     The 
»ut  gardens 
of  extreme 
}nt   a  very 
[lar  streets : 
d  of  wood. 
0  furnished 
vails  in  the 
tonishment. 
ad  content- 

Berent  race 

by  Russia. 

ve,  and  far 


more  bsndsome  than  their  northern  neighbours,  from 
whom  they  also  differ  totally  in  language.  The  Kurile 
islanders,  like  the  Patagonians,  have  given  rise  to  much 
contradiction  and  variety  of  opinion  among  travellers 
The  gigantic  stature  of  the  latter,  and  hairiness  of  tlr3 
former,  have  been  asserted  and  denied  in  equally  posi- 
tive terms.  Captain  Saris  Avas  informed  in  Jeddo,  by 
a  Japanese  traveller,  that  the  people  of  Yesso  had  their 
bodies  covered  with  hair,  like  monkeys.  Spanberg 
confirmed  this  story ;  and  Broughton  observes  of  these 
islanders,  that  "their  bodies  are  almost  universally 
covered  with  long  black  hair,  and  that  even  in  children 
the  same  oppearace  is  observable  ;"  but  notwithstanding 
this  weight  of  testimony,  and  the  difficulty  of  proving 
a  negative,  Krusenstern  ventures  to  assert  that  the 
hairiness  of  the  Kuriles  is  an  idle  story ;  because,  as 
far  as  his  examination  went,  he  found  these  islanders 
as  smooth  as  Europeans.  Yet  Golownin,  who  had 
abundant  opportunities  of  observing  these  people,  fre- 
quently speaks  of  the  hairy  Kuriles  as  a  separatd 
people. 

On  approaching  Chacodade,  multitudes  came  out 
to  meet  the  Russian  captives,  who  were  conducted 
to  prison  with  a  kind  of  processional  pomp.  "Both 
sides  of  the  road,"  observes  Golownin,  "were  crowded 
with  spectators,  yet  every  one  behaved  with  the 
utmost  decorum.  I  particularly  marked  their  coun 
tcnances,  and  never  once  observed  a  malicious  look, 
or  any  signs  of  hatred  towards  us ;  and  none  showed 
the  least  disposition  to  insult  us  by  mockery  and  deri- 
sion." 

The  prisoners  having  little  hopes  of  liberation,  and 

42 


494 


PERILOUS   ADVENT UllES. 


0 

0 


prompted  by  the  glimpse  of  the  sea  which  they  caught 
from  the  •windows  of  their  prison  at  Matsmai,  resolved 
to  attempt  an  escape.  Being  conducted  by  their  guards 
to  exercise  on  the  skirts  of  the  city,  they  were  enabled 
to  take  a  view  of  the  country,  and  to  observe  the  paths 
which  they  might  choose  in  their  flight.  In  the  night 
of  the  23d  of  April,  they  broke  an  opening  in  the  fence 
of  their  prison,  through  which  they  crept,  and  made 
their  way  through  the  trees  to  the  nearest  hill.  The 
island  of  Matsmai  is  extremely  mountainous  and  almost 
uninhabited  in  the  interior.  The  llussians,  who  avoided 
the  roads  and  Avandered  in  the  most  unfrequented 
places,  were  extremely  distressed  from  fatigue,  owing 
to  the  ruggcdness  of  the  country,  from  exposure  to  the 
cold  during  the  night,  and  from  want  of  good  food. 
Winter  still  reigned  among  the  mountains,  but  they 
preferred  the  regions  of  forests  and  of  snow  to  the 
chance  of  falling  again  into  the  hands  of  the  Japanese. 
Their  intenl'on  was  to  descend  to  the  sea  shore  during 
the  night ;  and,  seizing  on  some  large  boat,  to  put  to 
sea,  and  trust  themselves  to  fortune.  But  thev  were 
not  unobserved.  For  two  or  three  nights  they  visited 
the  beach,  but  their  strength  was  so  much  reduced  that 
they  were  unable  to  launch  the  boats  that  were  drawn 
up  on  the  sliorc.  They  caused  an  alarm  that  proved 
fatal  to  their  hopes  ;  and,  being  surrounded  in  a  thicket 
where  they  took  sliclter,  were  compelled  to  surrender 
to  the  Japanese  soldiers.  ""VVhenwe  passed  through 
the  villages,"  says  Golownin,  "  Lhe  inhabitan.:;  iioeked 
from  all  sides  to  look  at  us ;  but  to  the  honour  of  the 
Japanese  it  ought  to  bo  observed,  that  not  one  of  them 
treated  us  witli  any  thing  like  insult.     They  all  seemed 


J 


ADVENTUllES  IN  JAPAN. 


495 


L  tlicy  caught 
mai,  resolved 
J  their  guards 
were  enabled 
rve  the  patlis 
In  the  night 
2  in  the  fence 
3t,  and  made 
St  hill.     The 
us  and  almost 
3,  who  avoided 
unfrequented 
fatigue,  owing 
xposure  to  the 
of  good  food, 
tins,  hut  thc>- 
;  snow  to  the 
the  Japanese. 
a  shore  during 
boat,  to  put  to 
3ut  thev  were 
ts  they  visited 
h  reduced  that 
lat  were  drawn 
oti  that  proved 
led  in  a  thicket 
i  to  surrender 
passed  through 
ibitan.--  ilocked 
honour  of  the 
lot  one  of  them 
.'hoy  all  seemed 


to  commiserate  us,  and  some  of  the  women  even  shed 
tears  while  they  presented  us  with  something  to  eat  or 
drink.  Such  was  the  expression  of  feeling  among  a 
people  whom  enlightened  Europe  has  regarded  as 
barbarians." 

To  prevent  any  further  attempts  at  escape,  the  Rus- 
sians were  now  more  rigorously  confined.  They  were 
imprisoned  in  small  cages,  placed  together  in  the  same 
room,  and  nearly  excluded  from  light.  That  in  which 
Golownin  was  obliged  to  enter  was  six  paces  long,  five 
broad,  and  about  ten  feet  high.  They  were  inspected 
by  the  guards  every  half  hour,  and  awakened  from 
their  sleep  to  answer  the  call.  This  rigour,  however, 
was  of  short  continuance ;  the  disposition  of  the  Japa- 
nese seems  to  be  as  humane  as  their  principles  are 
severe.  The  governor  of  Matsmai  represented  the 
strangers  favourably  to  the  emperor ;  and  this,  united 
with  the  negotiations  of  Captain  Rikord.  who  had  cap- 
tured a  wealthy  Japanese  by  way  of  reprisal,  had  the 
effect  of  procuring  their  liberation,  after  a  confinement 
of  about  two  years.  The  kind-hearted  Japanese 
evinced  the  sincerest  joy  at  their  release ',  .:nd  in  con- 
formity with  the  general  wish  of  the  inhabitants,  the 
hiinyo  or  governor  of  Matsmai  ordered  that  prayers  for 
the  safe  voyage  of  the  Russians  should  be  offered  up  in 
all  the  temples  for  the  space  of  five  days. 


0 

0 


LOSS  OF  THE  BLENDENIIALL. 


N  the  year  1821,  the  Blen 
dcnhall,  free  trader,  bound 
from  England  for  Bom- 
bay, partly  laden  -vvitli 
broad-clotlis,  was  proceed- 
ing on  her  voyage  with 
every  prospect  of  a  suc- 
cessful issue.  While  thus 
pursuing  her  way  through 
the  Atlantic,  she  was  unfortunately  driven  from  her 
course,  by  adverse  winds  and  current*^,  more  to  the 
southward  and  westward  than  was  required,  and  it  be- 
came desirable  to  reach  the  island  of  Tristan  d'Ac- 
unha,  in  order  to  ascertain  and  rectify  the  reckoning. 


y 


^^3 


ALL. 

321,  the  Blen 
)  trader,  bouml 
ind    for  "Born- 
f    laden    -witli 
^,  was  procccd- 
voyage   with 
pect  of  a  suc- 
0.     While  thus 
^r  way  through 
i-ivcu  from  her 
4,  more  to  the 
ired,  and  it  he- 
Tristan  d'Ac- 
thc  reckoning. 


aniPWRECK   OF  THE  BLENDENHALL. 


0 

0 


J 


LOSS  OF  THE  BLENDENIIALL. 


499 


This  island,  which  is  called  after  the  Portuguese  admi- 
ral who  first  discovered  it,  is  one  of  a  group  of  three, 
the  others  being  the  Inaccessible  and  Nightingale 
Islands,  situated  many  hundreds  of  miles  from  any 
land,  and  in  a  south-westerly  direction  from  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope.  The  shores  arc  rugged  and  precipitous 
in  the  extreme,  and  form,  perhaps,  the  most  dangerous 
coast  upon  which  any  vessel  could  be  driven. 

It  was  while  steering  to  reach  this  group  of  islands, 
that,  one  morning,  a  passenger  on  board  the  Blenden- 
hall,  who  chanced  to  be  upon  deck  earlier  than  usual, 
observed  great  quantities  of  sea-weed  occasionally  float- 
ing alongside.  This  excited  some  alarm,  and  a  man 
was  immediately  sent  aloft  to  keep  a  good  look-out.—' 
The  weather  was  ^hen  extremely  hazy,  though  mode- 
rate ;  the  weeds  inued  ;  all  were  on  the  alert ;  they 
shortened  sail,  aii^i  the  boatswain  piped  for  breakfast. 
In  less  than  ten  minutes,  "  breakers  ahead  !"  startled 
every  soul,  and  in  a  moment  all  were  on  deck. — 
"  Breakers  starboard  !  breakers  larboard  !  breakers  all 
around,"  was  the  ominous  cry  a  moment  afterwards, 
and  all  was  confusion.  The  words  were  scarcely  ut- 
tered, when,  and  before  the  helm  was  up,  the  ill-fated 
ship  struck,  and  after  a  few  tremendous  shocks  against 
the  sunken  reef,  she  parted  about  mid-ship.  Ropes  and 
stays  were  cut  away — all  rushed  forward,  as  if  instinct- 
ively, and  had  barely  reached  the  forecastle,  when  t]^ 
stern  and  quarter-deck  broke  asunder  with  a  violent 
crash,  and  sunk  to  rise  no  more.  Two  of  the  seamen 
miserably  perished — the  rest,  including  officers,  passen- 
gers and  crew,  held  on  about  the  head  and  bows — the 
struggle  was  for  life ! 


)00 


PKKILOUS    AI)VI;NTUIIES. 


0 

0 


At  this  moment,  the  Inacccs.siMe  Island,  which  till 
then  Iiad  hoen  veiled  in  thick  clonds  and  mist,  appeared 
fi'OAvning  above  the  haze.  The  wreck  was  more  than 
two  miles  from  the  frightful  shore.  The  base  of  tho 
island  was  still  buried  in  impenetrable  gloom.  In  this 
perilous  extremity,  one  was  for  cutting  away  tho  an- 
chor, Avhich  had  been  got  up  to  tho  cat-head  in  time  of 
need  ;  another  was  ^or  cutting  doAvn  the  foremast  (tho 
foretop-mast  being  already  by  tho  board.)  The  fog 
totally  disappeared,  and  tho  black  rocky  island  stood 
in  all  its  rugged  deformity  before  their  eyes.  Sud-' 
denly  tho  sun  broke  out  in  full  splendour,  as  if  to  ex- 
pose more  clearly  to  tho  view  of  the  suifei'ers  their 
dit'iuU'ul  predicament.  Despair  was  in  every  bosom — 
death,  arrayed  in  all  its  terrors,  seemed  to  hover  over 
the  wreck.  But  exertion  was  required,  and  every 
thing  that  human  energy  could  devise  was  effected. — 
The  wreck,  on  which  all  eagerly  clung,  was  fortunately 
drifted  by  the  tide  and  wind  between  ledges  of  sunken 
rocks  and  thundering  breakers,  until,  after  the  lapse 
of  several  hours,  it  entered  the  only  spot  on  tho  island 
where  a  landing  was  possibly  practicable,  for  all  tho 
other  parts  of  the  coast  consisted  of  perpendicular 
cliffs  of  granite,  rising  from  amidst  tho  deafening  surf 
to  the  height  of  twenty,  forty  and  sixty  feot.  As  the 
shore  was  neared,  a  raft  was  prepared,  and  on  this  a 
few  paddled  for  tho  cove.  At  last  the  wreck  drove 
right  in  :  ropes  were  instantly  thrown  out,  and  the  crew 
and  passengers,  (except  two  who  had  been  crushed  in 
the  wreck,)  including  three  ladies  and  a  female  attend- 
ant, were  snatched' from  the  watery  grave,  which  a  few 
short  hours  before  had  appeared  inevitable,  and  safely 


10^  Ol-  Tin;  ltl.KNl)i;MIAl-l,. 


601 


I,  which  tin 
st,  appcarctl 
}  more  than 
base  of  tho 
)m.     In  this 
LAvay  the  an- 
d  in  time  of 
3remast  (tho 
1.)     Tho  fog 
island  stood 
eyes.     Sud-' 
,  as  if  to  ox- 
iffcj-ers  their 
ery  bosom — 
0  hover  over 
,    and   every 
IS  effected. — 
IS  fortvmately 
res  of  sunken 
fter  the  lapse 
on  the  island 
e,  for  all  tho 
perpendicular 
leafening  surf 
feet.     As  the 
and  on  this  a 
0  wreck  drove 
;,  and  the  crew 
sen  crushed  in 
female  attend- 
e,  which  a  few 
ale,  and  safely 


Innded  on  tlK>  Ijciicli.  Evening  had  now  set  in,  and 
every  clTort  wns  mndo  to  secure  whatever  could  bo 
saved  from  the  Avreck.  Bales  of  cloth,  cases  of  Avino, 
a  few  boxes  of  choose,  some  hams,  tho  carcass  of  a 
milch  cow  that  had  l)ccn  washed  on  shore,  bucket?, 
tubs,  butts,  a  seaman's  chest,  (containing  a  tinder-])ox 
and  needles  nnd  thread,)  with  a  number  of  elegant 
mahogany  turned  bed-posts,  and  part  of  an  investment 
for  tho  India  market,  were  got  on  shore.  The  rain 
poured  doAvn  in  torrents — all  hands  were  busily  at 
work  to  procure  shelter  from  the  weatlior ;  nnd  with 
the  bed-posts  and  broad  cloths,  and  part  of  the  fore- 
sail, as  many  tents  were  soon  pitclu'd  as  there  were 
individuals  on  the  island. 

Drenched  with  tlie  sea  and  Avitb  the  rain,  hungry, 
cold,  and  comrortlcss,  thousands  of  Miiles  from  their 
native  land,  almost  beyond  ex[)0(;tation  of  human  suc- 
cour, hope  nearly  anniliilatcd, — tho  slii])wreckcd  voy- 
agers retired  to  their  tents.  In  the  morning  the  wreck 
had  gone  to  pieces;  and  planks  and  spars,  and  wliatever 
had  floated  in,  Avcrc  eagerly  dragged  on  shore.  No 
sooner  Avas  the  unfortunate  ship  lirokcn  up,  than  deem- 
ing themselves  freed  from  tlio  bonds  of  authority,  many 
began  to  secure  Avhatcver  came  to  laud :  and  the  cap- 
tain, officers,  passengei's,  and  croAV,  Avere  now  reduced 
to  the  same  level,  and  obliged  to  take  their  turn  to 
fetch  Avater,  and  explore  the  island  for  food.  The 
work  of  exploring  Avas  soon  over — there  Avas  not  a 
bird,  nor  a  quadruped,  nor  a  single  tree  to  be  seen. — 
All  Avas  barren  and  desolate.  The  Ioav  parts  Avere  scat- 
tered over  with  stones  and  sand,  and  a  foAV  stunted 
weeds,  rocks,  ferns,  and  other  plants.     The  top  of  the 


■ajHewsMflss 


502 


I'EKILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 

0 


mountain  was  found  to  consist  of  a  fragment  of  origi 
nal  table  land,  very  marshy,  and  full  of  deep  sloughs, 
intersected  Avith  small  rills  of  water,  pure  and  pellucid 
as  crystal,  and  a  profusion  of  wild  parsley  and  celery. 
The  prospect  was  one  dreary  scene  of  destitution, 
without  a  single  ray  of  hope  to  relieve  the  misery  of 
the  desponding  crew.  After  some  days,  the  dead  cow, 
hams,  and  cheese,  were  consumed ;  and  from  one  end 
of  the  island  to  the  oiher,  not  a  morsel  of  food  could 
be  seen.  Even  the  celery  began  to  fail.  A  few  bot- 
tles of  wine,  which,  for  security  had  been  secreted 
under  ground,  only  remained.  Famine  now  began  to 
threaten.  Every  stone  near  the  sea  was  examined  for 
shell-fish,  but  in  vain. 

In  this  dreadful  extremity,  and  while  the  half-fam- 
ished seamen  wore  at  niglit  s.[uatting  in  sullen  dejec- 
tion around  their  fires,  a  large  lot  of  sea-birds,  allured 
by  the  flames,  rushed  into  the  midst  of  them,  and  were 
greedily. laid  hold  of  as  fast  as  they  could  be  seized. — 
For  several  nights  in  succession,  similar  flocks  came 
in  ;  and  by  multiplying  their  fires,  a  considerable  sup- 
ply was  secured.  IMicse  visits,  however,  ceased  at 
length,  and  the  wretched  party  were  exposed  again  to 
the  most  severe  privation.  When  their  stock  of  wild 
fowl  had  been  exhausted  for  more  than  two  days,  each 
began  to  fear  they  were  now  approaching  that  sad 
point  of  necessity,  when,  between  death  and  casting 
loiS  who  should  be  sacrificed  to  serve  for  food  'or  the 
rest,  no  alternative  remained.  While  horror  it  the 
b:ire  contemplation  of  nn  extremity  so  repulsive  occu- 
pied the  thoughts  of  all,  the  horizon  was  observed  to 
De  suddenly  obscured,  and  presently  clouds  of  penguin 


LOSS  OP  THE  BLENDENIIALL. 


503 


of  origi 
)  sloughs, 
i  pellucid 
ad  celery, 
[jstitution, 
misery  of 
dead  cow, 
n  one  end 
bod  could 
\.  few  bot- 
1  secreted 
f  began  to 
Ltnined  for 

I  lialf-fam- 
llen  dejec- 
ds,  allured 
and  were 
seized. — 
)ck8   came 
rable  sup- 
ceased  at 
id  again  to 
ck  of  wild 
djiys,  each 
that  sad 
tid  casting 
lod  'or  the 
ror  it  the 
Isive  occu- 
)bserved  to 
)f  penguin 


alighted  on  the  island.     The  low  grounds  were  actually 
covered ;   and  before  the  evening  was  dark,  the  sand 
could  not    be   seen  for   the  number   of  eggs,  which, 
like  a  sheet  of  snow,  lay  on  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
The  penguins  continued  on  the  island  four  or  five  days, 
when,  as  if  by  signal,  the  whole  took  their  flight,  and 
were  never  seen  again.     A  few  were  killed,  but  the 
flesh  was  so  extremely  rank  and  nauseous  that  it  could 
not  be  eaten.     The  eggs  were  collected  and  dressed  in 
all  manner  of  ways,  and  supplied  abundance  of  food 
for  upwards  of  three  weeks.     At  the  expiration  of  that 
period,  famine  once  more  seemed  inevitable ;  the  third 
morning  began  to  dawn  upon  the  unfortunate  company 
after  their  stock  of  eggs  were  exhausted ;  they  had  now 
been  without  food  for  more  than  forty  hours,  and  were 
fainting  and  dejected ;  when,  as  though  this  desolate 
rock  were  really  a  land  of  miracles,  a  man  came  run- 
ning up  to  the  encampment  with  the  unexpected  and 
joyful  tidings  that  "millions  of  sea-cows  had  come  on 
shore."     The  crew  climbed  over  the  ledge  of  rocks  T.iat 
flanked  their  tents,  and  the  sight  of  a  shoal  of  mana- 
tees immediately  beneath  them  gladdened  their  hearts. 
These  came  in  with  the  flood,  and  were  left  in  the  pud- 
dles between  the  broken  rocks  of  the  cove.     This  sup- 
ply continued  for  two  or  three  weeks.   The  flesh  was  mere 
blubber,  and  quite  unfit  for  food,  for  not  a  man  could 
retain  it  on  his  stomach ;  but  the  liver  was  excellent, 
and  on  this  they  subsisted.     In  the  meantime,  the  car- 
penter with  his  gang  had  constructed  a  boat,  and  four 
of  the  mtn  had  adventured  in  her  for  Tristan  d'Acun- 
ha,  in  hopes  of  ultimately  extricating  their  fellow-suf- 
ferers from  their  perilous  situation.     Unfortunately 


*fi5'ifeB?Z'»:_^-**,3*«64SS^-j4 


504 


PERILOUiS    ADVEXTUllES. 


0 

0 


the  boat  "vvas  lost — Avhetliov  carrieJ  away  by  the  vio 
lence  of  the  currents  that  set  in  between  the  islands, 
01*  dashed  to  pieces  against  the  breakers,  was  never 
known,  for  no  vestige  of  the  boat  or  crew  was  ever 
seen.  Before  the  manatees,  however,  began  to  quit  the 
shore,  a  second  boat  w-as  launched ;  and  in  this  an  offi- 
cer and  some  seamen  made  a  second  attempt,  and  hap- 
pily succeeded  in  effecting  a  landing,  after  much  labour, 
on  the  island,  where  they  were  received  with  much  cor- 
diality and  humanity  by  Governor  Glass — a  personage 
whom  it  will  be  necessary  to  describe. 

Tristan  d'Acunha  is  believed  to  have  been  uninhabi- 
ted until  1811,  when  three  Ameiicnns  took  up  tlicir  resi- 
dence upon  it,  for  the  purpose  of  cult iva Ling  vegeta- 
bles, and  selling  the  produce,  particularly  potatoes,  to 
vessels  which  might  touch  there  on  their  way  to  India, 
the  Cape,  or  other  parts  in  the  southern  ocean.  These 
Americans  remained  its  only  inhabitants  till  1816, 
when,  on  Bonaparte  being  sent  to  St.  Helena,  the 
British  government  deemed  it  expedient  to  garrison 
the  island,  ana  sent  the  Falmouth  man-of-war  with  a 
colony  of  forty  persons,  whieh  arrived  in  the  month  of 
August.  At  this  time  the  chief  of  the  American  set- 
tlers was  dead,  and  two  only  survived ;  but  what  finally 
became  of  these  we  are  not  informed.  The  British 
garrison  was  soon  given  up,  the  colony  abandoned,  and 
all  returned  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  except  a  per- 
son named  Glass,  a  Scotchman,  who  had  been  corporal 
of  artillery,  and  his  wife,  a  Cape  Creole.  One  or  two 
other  families  afterwards  joined  them,  and  thus  the 
foundation  of  a  nation  on  a  small  scale  was  formed ; 
Mr.  Glass,  with  the  title  and  character  of  governor, 


by  the  vio 
the  islands, 
was  never 
*v  was  ever 
I  to  quit  the 
this  an  offi- 
)t,  and  hap- 
luch  labour, 
li  much  cor- 
a  personage 

;n  uninhabi- 
ip  tlicir  rosi- 
iug  vegeta- 
potatoes,  to 
ly  to  India, 
;an.  These 
till  1816, 
Elelena,  the 
to  garrison 
-war  with  a 
le  month  of 
aerican  set- 
what  finally 
The  British 
idoned,  and 
xcept  a  per- 
son corporal 
One  or  two 
id  thus  the 
ras  formed; 
tf  governor, 


LOSS  OF  TllK  IJLENDENIIALL. 


505 


like  a  second  Robinson  Crusoe,  being  the  undisputed 
chief  and  hnvgivcr  of  tlie  Avhole.  On  being  visited  in 
1825,  by  Mr.  Augustus  Earlc,  the  little  colony  was 
found  to  be  on  the  increase,  a  considerable  number  of 
children  having  been  born  since  the  period  of  settle- 
ment. The  different  families  inhabited  a  small  village, 
consisting  of  cottages  covered  with  thatch  made  of  the 
long  grass  of  the  island,  and  exhibiting  an  air  of  com- 
fort, cleanliness,  and  plenty,  truly  English. 

It  was  to  this  island  that  the  boat's  crcAV  of  the 
Bleudenhall  had  bent  their  course,  and  its  principal  in- 
habitant. Governor  Glass,  showed  them  every  mark  of 
attention,  not  only  on  the  pcore  of  humanity,  but  be- 
cause they  were  fellow  subjects  of  the  same  power — 
for,  be  it  known,  Glass  did  not  lay  claim  to  indepen 
dent  monarchy,  but  always  prayed  publicly  for  King 
George  as  his  lawful  sovereign.  On  learning  the  situ- 
ation of  the  crew,  on  Inaccessible  Island,  he  instantly 
launched  his  boat,  and  unawed  by  considerations  of 
personal  danger,  hastened,  at  the  risk  of  his  life,  to  de 
liver  his  shipwrecked  countrymen  from  the  calamities 
they  had  so  long  endured.  He  made  repeated  trips, 
surmounted  all  difficulties,  and  fortunately  succeeded 
in  safely  landing  them  on  his  OAvn  island,  after  they 
had  been  exposed  for  nearly  three  months  to  the  hor- 
rors of  a  situation  almost  unparalleled  in  the  recorded 
sufferings  of  seafaring  men. 

After  being  hospitably  treated"  by  Glass  and  his 
company  for  three  months,  the  survivors  obtained  a 
passage  to  the  Capo,  all  except  a  young  sailor  named 
White,  who  had  formed  an  attachment  to  one  of  the 
servant  girls  on  board,  and  who,  in  all  the  miseries 

43 


''*Kmm>rr»i 


wwww^^^ESK^ 


506 


PBRILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


which  had  been  endured,  had  been  her  constant  protec- 
tor and  companion  ;  whilst  gratitude  on  her  part  pre- 
vented her  wishing  to  leave  him.  Both  chose  to  re- 
main, and  were  forthwith  adopted  as  free  citizens  of 
he  little  community. 


0 

0 


ant  protec- 
sr  part  pre- 
;hose  to  re- 
citizens  of 


ii^ 


m 


0 

0 


I 


C6 

fiw5 

ml  I 

M 

r» 

M 


W 

w 

lb 


MR.  BORROWS  ADVENTURES  AMONG 
THE   GIPSIES  IN  SPAIN. 

T'-T-vR.  GEORGE  BORROWS 

two  books  the  "  Gipsies  of 
Spain"  and  "  The  Bible  in 
Spain"  contain  some  very 
amusing  accounts  of  his  ad- 
ventures among  the  Gipsies  of  that 
country.  His  acquaintance  with  the 
regular  language  of  these  people  and 
his  intimate  knowledge  of  their  manners  and  costumes, 
always  caused  him  to  be  received  among  them  as  a 
genuine  gipsy. 

From  his  Bible  in  Spain  we  shall  proceed  to  make 
some  extracts  which  exhibit  the  manners  of  the  gipsies 
and  contain  many  singular  revelations.  It  appears 
that  stealing  horses  and  donkeys  and  selling  them 
forms  a  considerable  part  of  the  business  of  these  law- 
ess  robbers. 

Soon  after  passing  the  Spanish  line  Mr.  BorroAV  fell 
into  company  with  a  party  of  his  old  friends,  the  gip- 
sies. One  of  them,  the  Antonio  familiar  to  the  rcmders 
of  his  former  work,  offers  to  be  his  guide  onward,  and 
the  ancient  hankering  for  Rommani  society  is  too 
strong  for  the  temptation.     The  missionary  accepts  the 


**«tOX-J'^ 


610 


PEUILOUf?    ABVKNTURES. 


0 

0 


offer ;  and  we  have  him  pursuing  his  ^svay  for  more  than 
a  week,  mounted  on  a  spare  pony  (Egyptice  gras), 
from  the  Gitano  camp — lodging,  whether  in  flekl, 
forest,  village,  town,  or  city,  exactly  where  Antonio 
would  naturally  have  lodged  had  there  heen  no  stranger 
with  him.  There  can  he  no  sort  of  doubt  that  through- 
out his  travels  Mr.  Borrow  had  usually  passed  with 
gipsies  for  one  in  part  at  least  of  their  own  blood.  It 
was  so  at  Moscow — where  the  Prima  Donna  of  the 
celebrated  Singing  Company  was  at  once  ready  to 
hail  him  as  a  kinsman.  It  is  so  every  where  in  Spain ; 
and  most  queer  are  some  of  the  results  to  the  supposed 
"Caloro." 

"  Towards  evening  we  drew  near  to  a  large  town  or 
village.  '  That  is  Merida,'  said  Antonio,  *  formerly 
a  mighty  city  of  the  Corahai.  We  shall  stay  here  to- 
night, and  perhaps  for  a  day  or  two,  for  I  have  some 
business  of  Egypt  to  transact  in  this  place.  Now, 
brother,  step  aside  with  the  horse,  and  wait  for  me 
beneath  yonder  wall.  I  must  go  before  and  see  in 
what  condition  matters  stand.'  I  dismounted,  and  sat 
down  on  a  stone  beneath  the  ruined  Avail  to  which 
Antonio  had  motioned  me:  the  sun  went  down,  and 
the  air  was  exceedingly  keen :  I  drcAV  close  around  me 
an  old  tattered  gipsy  cloak  with  which  my  companion 
had  provided  me,  and,  being  somewhat  fatigued,  fell  into 
a  doze  which  lasted  for  nearly  an  hour. 

"  Is  your  worship  the  London  Caloro  ?"  said  a  strange 
voice  close  beside  me.  I  started,  and  beheld  the  face 
of  a  woman  peering  under  my  hat.  Notwithstanding 
the  dusk,  I  could  see  that  the  features  were  hideously 
ugly  and  almost  Ijlack :  they  belonged,  in  fact,  to  a 


ADVENTURES  AMONa  TII^  GIPSIES  IN  SPAIIN.      oll 


>r  more  than 
(Tptice  graB\ 
ler  in  flokl, 
ere  Antonio 
I  no  stranger 
hat  through- 
passed  with 
n  blood.  It 
►onna  of  the 
ce  ready  to 
(re  in  Spain ; 
the  supposed 

large  town  or 
0,  'formerly 
stav  here  to- 
I  have  some 
place.     Now, 
wait  for  me 
e  and  see  in 
inted,  and  sat 
,vall  to  which 
nt  down,  and 
)se  around  me 
ny  companion 
igued,  fell  into 

said  a  strange 
eheld  the  face 
jtwithstanding 
svere  hideously 

in  fact,  to  a 


gipsy  crone,  at  least  seventy  years  of  age,  leaning  upon 
a  staff.  "Is  your  worship  the  London  Caloro?" 
repeated  she.  "I  am  ho  whom  you  seek,"  said  I; 
"where  is  Antonio?"  ^^  Curclando,  ciirelando,  bari- 
hustrcs  curelos'tei^ela,"'*  said  the  crone:  "come  with 
me,  Caloro  of  my  garlochin,  come  with  mo  to  my  little 
ker;  he  will  bo  there  anon."  I  followed  the  crone, 
who  led  the  way  into  the  town,  which  was  ruinous  and 
seemingly  half  deserted ;  we  went  up  the  street,  from 
which  she  turned  into  a  narrow  and  dark  lane,  and 
presently  opened  the  gate  of  a  large  dilapidated  house. 
"  Come  in,"  said  she.  "  And  the  gras  ?"  I  demanded. 
I  "  Bring  the  gras  in  too,  my  chabo,  bring  the  gras  in  too ; 

there  is  room  for  the  gras  in  my  little  stable."  We 
entered  a  large  court,  across  which  we  proceeded  till  we 
came  to  a  wide  doorway.  "  Go  in,  my  child  of  Egypt," 
said  the  hag ;  "  go  in :  that  is  my  little  stable."  "The 
place  is  as  dark  as  pitch,"  said  I,  "  and  may  be  a  well  for 
what  I  know ;  bring  a  light,  or  I  will  not  enter."  "  Give 
me  the  solabarri  (bridle),"  said  the  hag,  "  and  I  will  lead 
your  horse  in,  my  chabo  of  Egypt ;  yes,  and  tether  him 
to  my  little  manger."  She  led  the  horse  through  the 
doorway,  and  I  heard  her  busy  in  the  darkness ;  pre- 
sently the  horse  shook  himself:  "  Crrasti  tfirelamos," 
said  the  hag,  who  now  made  her  appearance  with  the 
bridle  in  her  hand;  "the  horse  has  shaken  himself: 
he  is  not  harmed  by  his  day's  journey.  Now  let  us  go 
in,  my  Caloro,  into  my  little  room." 

We  entered  the  house  and  found  ourselves  in  a  vast 
room,  which  would  have  been  quite  dark  but  for  a  faint 

*  "Doing  business,  doing  business; — lie  baa  much  business  to  do.' 


'*^&fe»»«(t.:fv(*»^„,»,^.^, 


612 


PERILOUS    ADVENTUUKS. 


0 

0 


glow  which  appeared  at  the  farther  end ;  it  proceeded 
from  a  hrasero,  beside  ivhich  were  squatted  two  dusky 
figures.  "These  are  calloes,"  said  theluig;  "one  is 
my  daughter,  and  the  other  is  her  chahi ;  sit  doAvn,  my 
London  Caloro,  and  let  us  hear  you  speak."  I  looked 
about  for  a  chair,  but  could  see  none :  at  a  short  dis- 
tance, however,  I  perceived  the  end  of  a  broken  pillnr 
lying  on  the  floor;  this  I  rolled  to  the  brasero  and 
sat  down  upon  it.  "This  is  a  fine  house,  mother 
of  the  gipsies,"  said  I ;  "  rather  cold  and  damp,  though 
it  appears  large  enough  to  be  a  barrack."  "  Plenty  of 
houses  in  Merida,  my  London  Caloro,  some  of  them 
just  as  they  were  left  by  the  Corahanocs.  Ah  !  a  fine 
people  are  the  Corahanocs ;  I  often  wish  myself  in  their 
chim  once  more."  "  IIoav  is  this,  mother?"  said  I; 
"have  you  been  in  the  land  of  the  Moors  ?"  "  Twice 
have  I  been  in  their  country,  my  Caloro — twice  have  I 
been  in  the  land  of  the  Corahai.  The  first  time  is 
more  than  fifty  years  ago :  I  was  then  with  the  Sese 
(Spaniards),  for  my  husband  was  a  soldier  of  the  Crallis 
(King)  of  Spain,  and  Oran  at  that  time  belonged  to 
Spain."  "You  were  not  then  v.ith  the  real  Moors," 
said  I,  "  but  only  with  the  Spaniards  who  occupied  part 
of  their  country  ?"  "  I  have  been  with  the.  real  Moors, 
my  London  Caloro.  About  forty  years  ago  I  was  with 
my  ro  *  i  Ceuta,  for  he  Avas  still  a  soldier  of  the  king; 
and  he  said  to  me  one  day,  '  I  am  tired  of  this  place, 
where  there  is  no  bread  and  less  water;  I  will  escape 
and  turn  Corahano :  this  night  I  will  kill  my  sergeant, 
and  flee  to  the  camp  of  the  Moor.'  'Do  so,'  said  I, 
'  my  chabo  ;  and  as  soon  as  may  be  I  will  follow  you 
and  become  a  Corahani.*     That  same  night  he  killed 


;  proceeded 
two  dusky 
<T  •   "  one  is 
t  down,  my 
'     I  looked 
a  sliort  dis- 
rokcn  pillar 
jrasero  and 
jse,  mother 
imp,  though 
"  Plenty  of 
me  of  them 
Ah !  a  fine 
,'self  in  their 
r?"  said  1; 
?"     "  Twiee 
twice  have  I 
first  time  is 
th  the  Sese 
)f  the  Crallis 
belonged  to 
•eal  Moors," 
)ccupied  part 
real  Moors, 
;o  I  was  with 
of  the  king; 
3f  this  place, 
I  will  escape 
my  sergeant, 
0  so,'  said  I, 
ill  follow  you 
ht  he  killed 


ADVENTURES  AMONG  TUE  GIPSIES  IN  SPAIN.      513 

his  sergeant,  who  five  years  before  had  called  him  Calo 
and  cursed  him ;  then  running  to  the  wall  he  dropped 
from  it,  and,  amidst  many  shots,  ho  escaped  to  the 
land  of  the  Corahai :  as  for  myself,  I  remained  in  the 
presidio  of  Ceuta  as  a  suttler,  selling  wine  and  repani 
to  the  hundunares.  Two  years  passed  by,  and  I 
neither  saw  nor  heard  from  my  ro.  One  day  there 
came  a  strange  man  to  my  cachimani  (wine-shop) :  he 
was  dressed  like  a  corahano,  and  yet  he  did  not  look 
like  one;  he  looked  more  like  a  callardo  (black),  and 
yet  he  was  not  a  callardo  either,  though  he  was  almost 
black ;  and  as  I  looked  upon  him  I  thought  he  looked 
something  like  the  Errate  (Gipsies) ;  and  he  said  to  mo, 

*  Zincali ;  chachipe !'  and  then  he  whispered  to  me  in 
queer  language,  which  I  could  scarcely  understand, 

*  Your  ro  is  waiting ;  come  with  me,  my  little  sister, 
and  I  will  take  you  unto  him.'  *  Where  is  he  ?'  said 
I;  and  he  pointed  to  the  west,  to  the  land  of  the 
Corahai,  and  said,  *He  is  yonder  away;  come  with 
me,  little  sister,  the  ro  is  waiting.'  For  a  moment  I 
was  afraid,  but  I  bethought  me  of  my  husband,  and  I 
wished  to  be  amongst  the  Corahai.  The  sentinel  chal- 
lenged us  at  the  gate,  but  I  gave  him  repani,  and  he 
let  us  pass.  About  a  league  from  the  town,  beneath  a 
cerro  (hill),  we  found  four  men  and  women,  all  very 
black  like  the  strange  man,  and  they  all  saluted  me  and 
called  me  little  sister,  and  they  gave  me  other  clothes, 
and  I  looked  like  a  Corahani,  and  away  we  marched 
for  many  days  amidst  deserts  and  small  villages,  and 
more  than  once  it  seemed  to  me  that  I  was  amongst 
the  Errate,  for  their  ways  were  the  same;  the  men 
would  hokkawar  (cheat)  with  mules  and  assei,  and  tho 


514 


I'EllILOUS   ADVENTUllES. 


0 


women  told  baji ;  and  after  many  days  wo  camo  before 
a  large  town,  and  the  black  man  said,  '  Go  in  there, 
little  sister,  and  there  you  will  find  your  ro;'  and  I 
went  to  the  gate,  and  an  armed  Corahano  stood  within 
the  gate,  and  I  looked  in  his  face,  and  lo !  it  was 
my  ro.        ■ 

"  Well,  brother,  to  be  short,  my  ro  was  killed  in  the 
wars,  before  a  town  to  which  the  king  of  Corahani  laid 
siege,  and  I  became  a  piuli  (widow),  and  I  returned  to 
the  village  of  the  renegades,  as  it  was  called,  and  sup- 
ported myself  as  well  as  I  could  ;  and  one  day,  as  I  was 
sitting  weeping,  the  black  man,  whom  I  had  never  seen 
since  tho  day  he  brought  me  to  my  ro,  again  stood 
before  me,  and  said,  '  Come  with  me,  little  sister,  come 
with  me;  the  ro  is  at  hand:'  and  I  went  with  him, 
and  beyond  the  gate  in  the  desert  was  the  same  party 
of  black  men  and  vromcn  which  I  had  seen  before. 
*  Where  is  my  ro?'  said  I.  'Here  he  is,  little  sister,' 
said  the  black  man,  '  here  he  is ;  from  this  day  I  am 
the  ro,  and  you  tho  romi  ;  come,  let  us  go,  for  there  is 
business  to  be  done.'  And  I  went  with  him,  and  ho 
was  my  ro ;  and  we  lived  amongst  tho  deserts,  and 
hokkawar'd  and  choried  and  told  baji ;  and  I  said  to 
myself,  '  This  is  good :  sure  I  am  amongst  the  Errate,  in 
a  better  chim  than  my  own.'  And  I  had  three  chai 
by  the  black  man ;  two  of  them  died,  but  the  youngest, 
who  is  the  Calli  who  sits  by  tho  brasero,  was  spared : 
it  came  to  pass  that  once  in  the  winter- time  our  com- 
pany attempted  to  pass  a  wide  and  deep  river,  and  the 
boat  overset,  and  all  our  people  were  drowned,  all  but 
myself  and  my  chabi,  whom  I  bore  in  my  bosom.  I 
had  now  no  friends  amongst  the  Corahai,  and  I  wan- 


ADVKNTURE8  AMONG  THE  GIPSIES  IN  SPAIN.      515 


camo  before 
Go  ill  tlicve, 
'  ro;'  and  I 
stood  within 
1  lo !  it  was 

killed  in  tlio 
Corahani  laid 
[  returned  to 
lied,  and  sup- 
day,  as  I  was 
ad  never  seen 
,  again  stood 
e  sister,  come 
ent  -with  him, 
le  same  party 

seen  before. 
I,  little  sister,' 
this  day  I  am 
;o,  for  there  is 
h  him,  and  ho 
)  deserts,  and 

and  I  said  to 
;  the  Errate,  in 
lad  three  chai 
b  the  youngest, 
0,  was  spared : 
time  our  com- 
I  river,  and  the 
rowned,  all  but 

my  bosom.     I 
lai,  and  I  wan- 


dered about  the  despoblados,  howling  and  lamenting 
till  I  became  half  lili  (mad),  and  in  this  manner  1  found 
my  way  to  the  coast,  where  I  made  friends  with  the 
captain  of  a  ship,  and  returned  to  this  land  of  Si)ain. 
And  now  I  am  here,  I  often  wish  myself  back  again 
amongst  the  Corahai." 

Our  "  London  Caloro"  is  now,  we  understand,  a  mar- 
ried man :  but  in  1835  he  was  open  to  a  tender  dispo- 
sition. 

In  the  afternoon  I  was  seated  with  the  gipsy  mother 
m  the  hall ;  the  two  Callees  wore  absent  telling  for- 
tunes. "Are  you  married,  my  London  Caloro?"  said 
the  old  woman  to  me.     "  Are  you  a  ro  ?" 

Myself. — Wherefore  do  you  ask,  0  Dai  dc  los 
Gales  ? 

Gipsy  Blather. — It  is  high  time  that  the  lacha  of 
the  chabi  were  taken  from  her,  and  that  she  had  a  ro. 
You  can  do  no  better  than  take  her  for  romi,  my 
London  Caloro. 

Myself. — i  am  a  stranger  in  this  land,  0  mother  of 
the  gipsies,  and  sc;irccly  know  how  to  provide  for 
myself,  much  less  for  a  romi. 

Cripsy  Mother. — She  wants  no  one  to  provide  for 
her,  my  London  Caloro ;  she  can  at  any  tinio  provide 
for  herself  und  her  ro.  She  can  hokkawar,  tell  buji, 
and  there  are  few  to  equal  her  at  stealin,^  a  pastesas. 
"Were  she  at  Madrilati,  she  would  make  much  treasure ; 
in  this  foros  she  is  nahi  (lost),  for  there  is  nothing  to 
be  gained ;  but  in  the  foros  baro  it  would  be  another 
matter ;  she  would  go  dressed  in  lachipi  and  sonacai 
(silk  and  gold),  whilst  you  would  ride  about  on  your 
black-tailed  gra ;  and  when  you  had  got  much  treasure, 


516 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


you  miglit  return  hither  and  live  like  a  Crallis,  and  all 
the  Errate  of  the  Chim  del  Manro  should  bow  down 
their  heads  to  you.  What  say  you,  my  London 
Caloro  ? 

3Iyself. — Your  plan  is  a  plausible  one,  mother ;  but 
I  am,  as  you  are  aware,  of  another  chim,  and  have  no 
inclination  to  pass  my  life  in  this  country. 

Cripsy  MotJier. — Then  return  to  your  own  country, 
my  Caloro  ;  the  chabi  can  cross  the  pani.  Would  she 
not  do  business  in  London  with  the  rest  of  the  Caloro  ? 
Or  why  not  go  to  the  land  of  the  Corahai  ? 

3Ty8elf. — And  what  shall  we  do  in  the  land  of  the 
Corahai  ?     It  is  a  poor  and  wild  country,  I  believe. 

Cripsy  Mother. — Aromali !  I  almost  think  that  I 
am  speaking  to  a  lilipendi  (simpleton).  Are  there  not 
horses  to  chore  ?  Yes,  I  trow,  better  ones  than  in  this 
land,  and  asses  and  mules.  In  the  land  of  the  Corahai 
you  must  hokkawar  and  chore  even  as  you  must  here, 
or  in  your  own  country,  or  else  you  are  no  Caloro. 
Can  you  not  join  yourselves  with  the  black  people  who 
live  in  the  despoblados  ?  Yes,  surely ;  and  glad  they 
would  be  to  have  among  them  the  Errate  from  Spain 
and  London.  I  am  seventy  years  of  age,  but  I  wish 
not  to  die  in  this  chim,  but  yonder,  far  away,  where 
both  my  roms  are  sleeping.  Take  the  chabi,  therefore, 
and  go  to  Madrilati  to  win  the  parne,  and,  when  you 
have  got  it,  return,  and  we  will  give  a  banquet  to  all 
the  Busno  (Christians)  in  Merida,  and  in  their  food  I 
will    mix   drow,    and  they  shall   eat   and   burst   like 

poisoned    sheep And    when    they 

have  eaten  we  will  leave  them,  and  away  to  the  land 
of  the  Moor. 


ADVENTURES  AMONG  THE  GIPSIES  IN  SPAIN.      517 


allis,  and  all 
Id  bow  do-wn 
my    London 

mother;  but 
and  have  no 

)wn  country, 
,     Would  she 
f  the  Caloro  ? 
9 

5  land  of  the 
,  I  believe, 
think  that  I 
Are  there  not 
IS  than  in  this 
)f  the  Corahai 
ou  must  here, 
re  no  Caloro. 
ck  people  vrho 
and  glad  they 
te  from  Spain 
but  I  wish 
away,  where 
labi,  therefore, 
and,  when  you 
banquet  to  all 
n  their  food  I 
md  burst  like 
d    when    they 
ay  to  the  land 


^ge, 


I 


Mr.  Borrow,  we  suppose,  had  nothing  for  it  but  to 
hint  that  he  was  engaged  to  be  the  Ro  of  some  Chabi 
among  the  East-Anglian  Errate,  He  passes  over  his 
method  of  escape,  however,  with  a  lyrical  obscurity ; 
and  we  soon  find  him  in  the  open  country  again  with 
his  elegant  companion  Antonio,  To  be  sure,  the 
learned  and  devout  agent  of  the  Bible  Society  seems  a 
little  out  of  his  place  in  some  of  the  subsequent  scenes 
of  this  journey.     For  example  : — 

We  dismounted,  and  entered  what  I  now  saw  was  a 
forest,  leading   the  animals    cautiously   amongst   the 
trees    and    brushwood.     In    about    five   minutes   we 
reached  a  small  open  space,   at  the  farther  side  of 
which,  at  the  foot  of  a  large  cork-tree,  a  fire  was  burn- 
ing, and  by  it  stood  or  sat  two  or  three  figures ;   one 
of  them  now  exclaimed  "  Quien  vivo?"  "I  know  that 
voice,"  eaid  Antonio,  and  rapidly  advanced :  presently 
I  heard  an  Ola  I  and  a  laugh.     On  reaching  the  fire,  I 
found  two  dark  lads,  and  a  still  darker  woman  of  about 
forty ;  the  latter  seated  on  what  appeared  to  be  horse 
or  mule  furniture.     I  likewise  saw  a  horse  and  two 
donkeys  tethered  to  the  neighboring  trees.     It  was  in 
fact  a  gipsy  bivouac.     "  Come  forward,  brother,  and 
show   yourself,"    said   Antonio;    "you   are    amongst 
friends ;  these  are  the  very  people  whom  I  expected  to 
find  at  Trujillo,  and  in  whose  house  we  should  have 
slept."     "And  what,"   said  I,   "could  have  induced 
them  to  leave  their  house  and  come  into  this  dark  for- 
est, in  the  midst  of  wind  and  rain,  to  pass  the  night  ?" 
"They  come  on  business  of  Egypt,   brother,  doubt- 
less," replied  Antonio;  " Calla  boca  !"     "My  ro  is 
prLsoner  at  the  village  yonder,"  said  the  woman;  "he 

49 


518 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


is  prisoner  for  choring*  a  mailla  {donTcey)\  we  aro 
come  to  see  what  can  be  done  in  his  behalf;  and  where 
can  we  lodge  better  than  in  this  forest,  where  there  is 
nothing  to  pay?"  One  of  the  striplings  now  gave  us 
barley  for  our  animals  in  a  large  bag,  into  which  we 
ucccssively  introduced  their  heads,  allowing  the  fam- 
ished creatures  to  regale  themselves  till  we  conceived 
they  had  satisfied  their  hunger.  There  was  a  puchero 
simmering  at  the  fire,  half  full  of  bacon,  garbanzos, 
and  other  provisions ;  this  was  emptied  into  a  large 
wooden  platter,  and  out  of  this  Antonio  and  myself 
supped,  the  other  gipsies  refused  to  join  us,  giving  us 
to  understand  that  they  had  eaten  before  our  arrival ; 
they  all,  however,  did  justice  to  the  leathern  bottle  of 

Antonio 

The  sun  Avas  just  appearing  as  I  awoke.  I  made 
several  efforts  before  I  could  rise  from  the  ground ;  my 
limbs  were  quite  stiff,  and  my  hair  was  covered  with 
rime ;  for  the  rain  had  ceased,  and  a  rather  severe  frost 
set  in.  I  looked  around  me,  but  could  see  neither  An- 
tonio nor  the  gipsies ;  the  animals  of  the  latter  had 
likewise  disappeared,  so  had  the  horse  which  I  had 
hitherto  rode ;  the  mule,  however,  of  Antonio  still  re- 
mained fastened  to  the  tree ;  this  latter  circumstance 
quieted  some  apprehensions  which  were  beginning  to 
arise  in  my  mind.  "  They  are  gone  on  some  business 
of  Egypt,"  I  said  to  myself,  "and  will  return  anon." 
I  gathered  together  the  embers  of  the  fire,  and,  heap- 
ing upon  them  sticks  and  branches,  soon  succeeded  in 
calling  forth  a  blaze,  beside  which  I  again  placed  the 
puchero,  with  what  remained  of  the  provision  of  last 

*  Stealing. 


zy)\  we  aro 
';  and  where 
icre  there  is 
now  gave  us 
to  which  we 
•ing  the  fam- 
ve  conceived 
as  a  puchcro 
,  garbanzos, 
into  a  large 
and  rr.yself 
us,  giving  us 
(  our  arrival ; 
3rn  bottle  of 

•  •  •  • 

ke.     I  made 
!  ground ;  my 
covered  with 
r  severe  frost 
e  neither  An- 
le  latter  had 
which  I  had 
itonio  still  re- 
circumstance 
beginning  to 
some  business 
'eturn  anon." 
re,  and,  heap- 
succeeded  in 
in  placed  the 
jvision  of  last 


\^ 


\ 


liAlireit 


JL 


h3 

m 

W 
o 

w 

m 

f 
w 


.^y'       ■■"■    '       - 


0 

0 


#• 


i-.»^  ';■    ■*'--. 


■  • -.  ':^  :■'■■ 


■ '',  'J'  -  \ 


-iTf    4^ 


":■<?■ 


i 


ADVENTURES  AMONG  TIIK  GIPSIES  IN  SPAIN.     521 


night.  I  waited  for  a  considerable  time  in  expectation 
of  the  return  of  ray  companions,  but,  as  they  did  not 
appear,  I  sat  down  and  breakfasted.  Before  I  had  well 
finished  I  heard  the  noise  of  a  horse  approaching  rap- 
idly, and  presently  Antonio  made  his  appearance 
amongst  the  trees,  with  some  agitation  in  his  counte- 
nance. He  sprang  from  the  horse,  and  instantly  pro- 
ceeded to  untie  the  mule.  "  Mount,  brother,  mount !" 
said  he,  pointing  to  the  horse ;  "  I  went  with  the  Callee 
and  her  chabds  to  the  village  where  the  ro  is  in  trouble  ; 
the  chinobaro,  however,  seized  them  at  once  with  their 
cattle,  and  would  have  laid  hands  also  on  me,  but  I  set 
spurs  to  the  grasti,  gave  him  the  bridle,  and  was  soon 
far  away.  Mount,  brother,  mount,  or  we  shall  have 
the  whole  rustic  canaille  upon  us  in  a  twinkling." 

By-and-by  they  came  in  sight  of  Jaraicojo :  but  the 
missionary's  friend  declines  to  enter  the  town  in  com- 
pany. 

"Brother,  we  had  best  pass  through  that  town 
singly.  I  will  go  in  advance ;  follow  slowly,  and  when 
there  purchase  bread  and  barley ;  you  have  nothing  to 
fear.  I  will  await  you  on  the  despoblado."  Without 
waiting  for  my  answer  he  hastened  forward,  and  was 
speedily  out  of  sight.  I  folloAved  slowly  behind,  and 
entered  the  gate  of  the  town,  an  old  dilapidated  place, 
consisting  of  little  more  than  one  street.  Along  this 
street  I  was  advancing,  when  a  man  with  a  dirty  for 
aging  cap  on  his  head,  «and  holding  a  gun  in  ^is  hand, 
came  running  up  to  me:  "Who  are  you?"  said  he,  in 
rather  rough  accents  ;  "  from  whence  do  you  come  ?" 
"  From  Badajoz  and  Trujillo,"  I  replied ;  "  why  do 
you  ask?"     "I  am  one  of  the  national  guard,"  said 


522 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 

0 


the  man,  "  and  am  placed  here  to  inspect  strangers.-^ 
I  am  told  that  a  gipsy  fellow  just  now  rode  through 
the  town ;  it  is  well  for  him  that  I  had  stepped  into  my 
house.  Do  you  cor-:  in  his  company?"  "Do  I  look 
like  a  person,"  said  I,  "likely  to  keep  company  with 
gipsies:  ^>      . 

The  national  measured  me  from  top  to  toe,  and 
then  looked  me  full  in  the  face  with  an  expression 
which  seemed  to  say,  "Likely  enough."  In  fact,  my 
appearance  was  by  no  means  calculated  to  prepossess 
people  in  my  favour.  Upon  my  head  I  wore  an  old 
Andalusian  hat,  which,  from  its  condition,  appeared  to 
have  been  trodden  under  foot ;  a  rusty  cloak,  which 
had  perhaps  served  half  a  dozen  generations,  en- 
wrapped my  body.  My  nether  garments  were  by  n( 
means  of  the  finest  description,  and  as  far  as  could  be 
seen  were  covered  with  mud,  with  which  my  face  was 
likewise  plentifully  bespattered ;  and  upon  my  chin  was 
a  beard  of  a  week's  growth.  "     '•''       '    ' 

"Have  you  a  passport?"  at  length  demanded  the 
national.  I  remeiiioored  having  read  that  the  best 
way  to  win  a  Spaniard's  heart  is  to  treat  him  with  cere- 
monious civility.  I  therefore  dismounted,  and,  taking 
off  my  hat,  made  a  low  bow  to  the  constitutional  sol- 
dier, saying,  "  Senor  nacional,  you  must  know  that  I 
am  an  English  gentleman,  travelling  in  this  country  for 
ny  pleasure.  I  bear  a  passport,  which,  on  inspecting, 
you  will  find  perfectly  regular  :  it  was  given  me  by 
the  great  Lord  Palmerston,  minister  of  Englan  ^,  whom 
you  of  course  have  heard  of  here ;  at  the  bottom  you 
will  see  his  own  handwriting ;  look  at  it  and  rejoice ; 
perhaps  you  will  never  have  another  opportunity.     As 


ADVENTURES  AMONG  TIIS   GIPSIES  IN  SPAIN.     523 


angers. — 
0  through 
d  into  my 
Do  I  look 
pany  with 

0  toe,  and 
expression 

1  fact,  my 
prepossess 
rore  an  old 
ppcarcd  to 
oak,  which 
ations,  en- 
vere  by  n( 
,s  could  be 
ly  face  was 
[ly  chin  was 

landed  the 
It  the  best 
Q  Avith  cere- 
and,  taking 
utional  sol- 
cnow  that  I 
country  for 
inspecting, 
ven  me  by 
lac  ^,  Avhom 
bottom  you 
nd  rejoice; 
;unity.     As 


I  put  unbounded  confidence  in  the  honour  of  every 
gentleman,  I  leave  the  passport  in  your  hands  .whilst  I 
repair  to  the  posada  to  refresh  myself.  When  you 
have  inspected  it,  you  will  perl  j-s  oblige  me  so  far  as 
to  bring  it  to  me.  Cavalier,  I  kiss  your  hands."  I 
then  made  him  another  low  bow,  which  he  returned 
with  one  still  lower,  and,  leaving  him  now  staring  at 
the  passport  and  now  at  myself,  I  went  into  a  posada, 
to  which  I  was  directed  by  a  beggar  whom  I  met. 

I  fed  the  horse,  and  procured  some  bread  and  bar- 
ley, as  the  gipsy  had  directed  rae  ;  I  likewise  purchased 
three  fine  partridges  of  a  fowler,  who  was  drinking 
wine  in  the  posada.  He  was  satisfied  with  the  price  I 
gave  him,  and  offered  to  treat  mo  with  a  copita,  to 
which  I  made  no  objection.  As  we  sat  discoursing  at 
the  table,  the  national  entered  with  the  passport  in  his 
hand,  and  sat  down  by  us. 

National. — Caballero !  I  return  you  your  passport ; 
it  is  quite  in  form  :  I  rejoice  to  have  made  your  acquain- 
tance; no  doubt  you  can  give  me  some  information  re- 
specting the  war. 

Myself. — I  shall  be  very  happy  to  afibrd  so  polite 
and  honourable  a  gentleman  any  information  in  my 
power.  --..■■:■  -x  ^ 

National. — What  is  England  doing  ?  If  she 
pleased,  she  could  put  down  the  war  in  three  months. 

Myself. — No  tenga  usted  euidao,  Senor  nacional,— 
You  have  heard  of  the  legion  which  my  Lord  Palmor- 
ston  has  sent  over  ?     Leave  the  matter  in  their  hands. 

National. — It  appears  to  mo  that  this  Caballero 
Balmerson  must  be  a  very  honest  man. 

Myself. — There  can  be  no  doubt  of  it. 


624 


rEllILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 

0 


National. — I  have  heard  that  he  was  a  great 
general. 

Myself. — In  some  things  neither  Napoleon  nor  the 
sawyer*  would  stand  a  chance  with  him.  E9  mucho 
Jiombre.  .  .  . .,.  •  . 

National. — I  am  glad  to  hear  it.  Does  he  intend 
to  head  the  legion ?       •.,.,.:..      .,  .,        -    _.     .    - 

Myself. — I  believe  not ;  but  he  has  sent  over,  to 
head  the  fighting  men,  a  friend  of  his,  who  is  thought 
to  be  nearly  as  much  versed  in  military  matters  as 
himself. 

National. — lo  me  alegro  mucJto.  I  see  that  the 
war  will  soon  be  over,  (jaballero,  I  thank  you  for 
your  politeness,  and  for  the  information  which  you 
have  afforded  me.  The  despoblado,  out  yonder,  has  a 
particularly  evil  name ;  be  on  your  guard,  Caballero.  I 
am  sorry  that  gipsy  was  permitted  to  pass ;  should  you 
meet  him  and  not  like  his  looks,  shoot  him  at  once, 
stab  him,  or  ride  him  down.  He  is  a  well-known  thief, 
contrabandista,  and  murderer,  and  has  committed  more 
assassinations  than  he  has  fingers  on  his  hands.  Stay ; 
before  I  go  I  should  wish  to  see  once  more  th  j  signa- 
ture of  the  Caballero  Balmerson. 

I  showed  him  the  signature,  which  he  looked  upon 
with  profound  reverence,  uncovering  his  head  for  a 
moment ;  we  then  embraced  and  parted. 

I  mounted  the  horse  and  rode  from  the  town,  at  first 
proceeding  very  slowly ;  I  had  no  sooner,  however, 
reached  the  moor  than  I  put  the  animal  to  his  speedy 


i 


*  "El  Serrador,  a  Carlist  partisan,  about  this  time  much  talked 
of." 


i 
i 


,s  a  great 

3on  nor  tlie 
Us  mucho 

he  intend 

nt  over,  to 
)  is  thought 
matters  as 

e  that  the 
nk  you  for 
■which  you 
>nder,  has  a 
/aballero.  I 
;  should  you 
lira  at  once, 
known  thief, 
mitted  more 
nds.  Stay ; 
re  th  i  signa- 

looked  upon 
head  for  a 

town,  at  first 
er,  however, 
,0  his  speedy 

ac  much  talked 


ADVENTURES  AMONG  THE  UIPSIES  IN  SPAIN.     525 

trot,  and   proceeded  at  a  tremendous   rate  for  some 
time,  expecting  every  moment  to  overtake  the  gipsy.    I, 
however,  saw  nothing  of  him,  nor  did  I  meet  with  a 
single  human  being.     The  road  along  which  I  sped  was 
narrow  and  aandy,  winding  amidst  thickets  of  broom 
and  brushwood,  with  which  the  despoblado  was  over- 
grown, and  which  in  some  places  were  as  high  as  a 
man's   head.     Aoross  the  moor,  in   the  direction  in 
which  I  was  proceeding,  rose  a  lofty  eminence,  naked 
and    bare.     The   moor    extended  for   at   least   three 
leagues  ;  I  had  nearly  crossed  it,  and  reached  the  foot 
of  the  ascent.     I  was  liecoming  very  uneasy,  conceiv- 
ing I  might  have  passed  the  gipsy  amongst  the  thick- 
ets, when  I  suddenly  h^ard  his  well-known  0-la !  and 
his  black  savage  head  and  staring  eyes  suddenly  ap- 
peared from  amidst  a  ciamp  of  broom.     "  You  have 
tarried  long,  brother,"  saud  he;  "I  almost  thought  you 
had  played  me  false." 

Antonio  found  pypsently  that  he  had  no  chance  of 
escape  except  in  quieting  the  high  road  altogether. 
Our  living  Polyglott  therefore  proceeds  in  solitary 
state.  But  near  Talavera  he  is  overtaken  by  another 
horseman,  a  grave,  well-clad  man  of  middle  age,  with 
whom  he  jogs  on  for  a  few  minutes.  The  stranger 
speaks  good  Castilian ;  but  in  a  moment  of  excitement 
an  exclamation  escapes  him  which  betrays  the  Mo- 
resco.*     Mr.  Borrow  caps  him  in  Arabic. 

The  man  walked  on  about  ten  paces,  in  the  same 
manner  as  he  had  previously  done ;  all  of  a  sudden  he 

*  It  appears  by  this  account  that  some  of  the  Spanish  clergy 
are  Mahometans. 


626 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 


turned,  and,  taking  the  bridle  of  the  burra  gently  in 
his  hand,  stopped  her.  I  had  now  a  full  view  of  his 
face  and  figure,  and  those  huge  features  and  Herculean 
form  still  occasionally  revisit  me  in  my  dreams.  I  see 
him  standing  in  the  moonshine,  staring  me  in  the  face 
with  his  deep  calm  eyes.     At  last  he  said, — 

".£'8  usted  tambien  cle  nosotros." 

Mr.  Borrow  could  scarcely  answer  before  the  man 
signified  that  he  knew  him  to  be  English.  They  ex- 
plain to  their  mutual  satisfaction. 

It  was  late  at  night  when  we  arrived  at  Talavera. 
We  went  to  a  large  gloomy  house,  which  my  compan- 
ion informed  me  was  the  principal  posada  of  the  town. 
We  entered  the  kitchen,  at  the  extremity  of  which  a 
large  fire  was  blazing.  "Pepita,"  said  my  companion 
to  a  handsome  girl,  who  advanced  smiling  towards  us ; 
"  a  brasero  and  a  private  apartment :  thij  cavalier  is  a 
friend  of  mine,  and  wc  shall  sup  together."  Wo 
were  shown  to  an  apartment  in  which  were  two  al- 
coves containing  beds.  After  supper,  which  consisted 
of  the  very  best,  by  the  order  of  my  companion,  we  sat 
over  the  brasero  and  commenced  talking. 

Ml/self. — Of  course  you  have  conversed  with  Eng- 
lishmen before,  else  you  could  not  have  recognised  mo 
by  the  tone  of  my  voic.e. 

Aharhenel. — I  was  a  young  lad  when  the  war  of 
independence  broke  out,  and  there  came  to  the  village 
in  which  our  family  lived  an  English  officer  in  order  to 
teach  discipline  to  the  new  levies.  He  was  quartered 
in  my  father's  house,  where  he  conceived  a  great  aflec- 
tion  for  me.  On  his  departure,  with  the  consent  of  my 
father,  I  attended  him  through  both  the  Castiles,  partly 


ADVKXTlMii:.'^    AMuNii    TIIH    (ili'.-^IKS    IX    Sl'AlN.    527 


a  gently  in 
view  of  his 
1  Herculean 
ams.  I  sec 
!  in  the  face 


re  the  man 
.  They  ex- 
it Talavcra. 
my  compaii- 
)f  the  town, 
r  of  which  a 
f  companion 
towards  us ; 
cavalier  is  a 
3ther."  Wo 
vere  two  al- 
ch  consisted 
mion,  we  sat 

\  with  Eng- 
cogniscd  me 

the  war  of 
;o  the  village 
T  in  order  to 
'as  quartcrctl 
1  great  afl'ec- 
anscnt  of  my 
istiles,  partly 


as  companion,  partly  as  domestic.  I  was  with  him 
nearly  a  year,  when  he  was  suddenly  summoned  to 
return  to  his  own  country.  He  would  fain  have  taken 
mo  with  him,  but  to  that  my  father  would  by  no  means 
consent.  It  is  now  five-and-and-twenty  years  since  I 
last  saw  an  Englishman ;  but  you  have  seen  how  I 
recognised  you  even  in  the  dark  night. 

Myself. — And  what  kind  of  life  do  you  pursue,  and 
by  what  means  do  you  obtain  support  ? 

Aharhenel. — I  experience  .no  difficulty.  I  live  much 
in  the  same  way  as  I  believe  my  forefathers  lived ;  cer- 
tainly as  my  father  did,  for  his  course  has  been  mine. 
At  his  death  I  took  possession  of  the  herencia,  for  I 
was  his  only  child.  It  was  not  requisite  that  I  should 
follow  any  business,  for  my  wealth  was  great ;  yet,  to 
avoid  remark,  I  have  occasionally  dealt  in  wool ;  but 
lazily,  lazily — as  I  had  no  stimulus  for  exertion.  I 
was,  however,  successful  in  many  instances,  strangely 
so ;  much  more  than  many  others  who  toiled  day  and 
night,  and  whose  soul  was  in  the  trade. 

Myself. — Have  you  any  children?  Are  you  mar- 
ried ? 

Abarhencl. — I  have  no  children,  though  I  am  mar- 
ried. I  have  a  wife  and  an  amiga,  or  I  should  rather 
say  two  wives,  for  I  am  wedded  to  both.  I  however 
call  one  my  amiga,  for  appearance  sake,  for  I  wish  to 
live  in  quiet,  and  am  unwilling  to  offend  the  prejudices 
of  the  surrounding  people.  , 

Myself. — You  say  you  arc  wealthy.  In  what  does 
vour  wealth  consist  ? 

Aharhenel. — In  gold  and  silver,  and  stones  of  pv.^'c^ 
for  I  have  inherited  all  the  hoards  of  my  forefathers. 


628 


PEiiiLois  ai»vi;ntl'Ki;s. 


0 

0 


The  greater  part  is  buried  underground  ;  indeed,  I  have 
never  examined  the  tenth  part  of  it.  I  have  coins  of 
silver  and  gold  older  than  the  times  of  Ferdinand  the 
Accursed  and  Jezebel ;  I  have  also  large  sums  employed 
in  usury.  We  keep  ourselves  close,  however,  and  pre- 
tend to  bo  poor,  miserably  so ;  but  on  certain  occasions, 
at  our  festivals,  when  our  gates  are  barred,  and  our 
savage  dogs  are  let  loose  in  the  court,  wc  eat  our  food 
off  services  such  as  the  Queen  of  Spain  cannot  boast 
of,  and  wash  our  feet  in  ewers  of  silver,  fashioned  and 
wrought  before  the  Americas  were  discovered,  though 
our  garments  arc  at  all  times  coarse,  and  our  food  for 
the  most  part  of  the  plainest  description. 

Myself. — Are  there  more  of  you  than  yourself  and 
your  two  wives  ? 

Aharhenel. — There  are  my  two  servants,  who  are 
likewise  of  us ;  the  o  is  a  youth,  and  is  about  to 
leave,  being  betrothed  to  one  at  some  distance ;  the 
other  is  old :  he  is  now  upon  the  road,  following  me 
with  a  mule  and  car. 

Myself. — And  whither  are  you  bound  at  present  ? 

Aharhenel. — To  Toledo,  where  I  ply  my  trade  occa- 
sionally. I  love  to  wander  about,  though  I  seldom 
stray  far  from  home.  Since  I  left  the  Englishman  my 
feet  have  never  once  stepped  beyond  the  bounds  of  New 
Castile.  I  love  to  visit  Toledo,  and  to  think  of  the 
times  which  have  long  since  departed ;  I  should  esta- 
blish myself  there,  were  there  not  so  many  accursed 
ones,  who  look  upon  me  with  an  evil  eye. 

Myself. — Are  you  known  for  what  you  are?  Do  the 
authorities  molest  you? 

Aharhenel. — People  of  course  suspeet  me  te  be  what 


idced,  I  havo 
lave  coins  of 
crdinand  tho 
iras  employed 
ver,  and  pre- 
ain  occasions, 
■red,  and  our 
I  eat  our  food 
cannot  boast 
fashioned  and 
vered,  though 
I  our  food  for 

youi-self  and 

ints,  who  arc 
d  is  about  to 
distance ;  tho 
,  following  me 

at  present  ? 
ay  trade  occa- 
ugh  I  seldom 
Inglishman  my 
bounds  of  New 
)  think  of  the 
I  should  esta- 
nany  accursed 

u  are  ?   Do  the 

me  t«  be  what 


ADVENTURES   AMONG   THE   OlPSIES   IN   SPAIN.    529 

I  am  ;  mt  as  I  conform  outwardly  in  most  respects  to 
their  ways,  they  do  not  interfere  with  me.  True  it  is 
that  sometimes  when  I  enter  the  church  to  hear  tho 
mass,  they  glare  at  me,  over  the  left  shoulder,  as  mnch 
as  to  say — "What  do  you  here?"  And  gometim'a 
they  cross  themselves  as  I  pass  by  •  but  ac  they  go  a  , 
further,  I  do  not  trouble  myself  on  that  account.  Wi- h 
respect  to  the  authorities,  they  are  not  bad  frien  j  of 
mine.  Many  of  the  higher  class  have  borrowed  *Tn.  >ney 
from  me  on  usury,  so  that  I  have  them  to  a  c:;vtaiii  ex- 
tent in  my  power ;  and  as  for  the  low  -.r  gurnds  oiifl 
corchctes,  they  would  do  any  thing  to  oblige  m(r  in  con- 
sideration of  a  few  dollars  which  I  occasionally  give 
them,  so  that  matters  upon  the  whole  go  on  ?X'iiork- 
ably  well.  Of  old,  indeed,  it  was  far  otherwise;  yet, 
I  know  not  how  it  was,  though  other  families  sufiFered 
much,  ours  always  enjoyed  a  tolerable  share  of  trau- 
quillity.  The  truth  is,  that  our  family  has  aiwayfi 
known  how  to  guide  itself  wonderfully.  I  may  say 
there  is  much  of  the  wisdom  of  tue  snake  amongst  us. 
We  have  always  possessed  friends,  and  with  resi  cct  to 
enemies,  it  is  by  no  means  safe  to  meddle  with  us ;  for 
it  is  a  rule  of  our  house,  never  to  forgivi;  an  iiijufT, 
and  to  spare  neither  trouble  nor  expense  m  bringing 
uin  and  destruction  upon  the  heads  of  oar  h\i\  doeva. 

Myself. — Do  the  priests  interfere  A'lih  yoi.  ? 

Aharhenel. — Thyy  lefc  mo  riione,  especially  in  om 
own  neighbourhood.  Shortly  after  the  death  of  my 
father,  one  hot-headed  individual  endeavoured  to  do  me 
an  evil  turn,  but  I  soon  requited  him,  causing  him  to 
be  imprisoned  on  a  charge  of  blasphemy,  and  in  prison 
he  remained  a  long  time,  till  he  went  mad  and  died  ? 


1 


630 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


0 

0 


Myself. — Have  you  a  head  in  Spain,  in^whom  is 
vested  the  chief  authority  ? 

Abarhenel. — Not  exactly.  There  are,  however,  cer- 
tain holy  familes  who  enjoy  much  consideration ;  my 
own  is  one  of  these — the  chiefest,  I  may  say.  My 
grandsire  was  a  particularly  holv  man  ;  and  I  have 
heard  my  father  say  that  one  night  an  archbishop  came 
to  his  house  secretly,  merely  to  have  the  satisfaction 
of  kissing  his  head.  '.   ■  -        /     '>      •   .- 

Myself. — How  can  that  be?  What  reverence  could 
an  archbishop  entertain  for  one  like  yourself  or  grand- 
sire? 

Abarhenel. — More  than  you  imagine.  He  was  one 
of  us,  at  least  his  father  was,  and  he  could  never  forget 
what  he  had  learned  with  reverence  in  his  infancy. 
He  said  he  had  tried  to  forget  it,  but  he  could  not ;  that 
the  ruah  was  continually  upon  him,  and  that  even  from 
his  childhood  he  had  borne  its  terrors  with  a  troubled 
mind,  till  at  last  he  could  bear  himself  no  longer ;  so 
he  went  to  my  grandsire,  with  whom  he  remained  one 
whole  night ;  he  then  returned  to  his  diocese,  where  he 
shortly  afterwards  died,  in  much  renown  for  sanctity. 

Myself. — What  you  say  surprises  mo.  Have  you 
reason  to  suppose  that  many  of  you  are  to  be  found 
amongst  the  priesthood  ? 

^Abarhenel. — Not  to  suppose,  but  to  know  it.  There 
are  many  such  as  I  amongst  the  priesthood,  and  not 
amongst  the  inferior  priesthood  either ;  some  of  the  most 
learned  and  famed  of  them  in  Spain  have  been  of  us, 
or  of  our  blood  at  least,  and  many  of  them  at  tliie  day 
think  as  I  do.  There  is  one  particular  festival  of  the 
year  at  which  four  dignified  ecclesiastics  are  sure  to  "^Isit 


ADVENTURES   AMONG  THE   GIPSIES  IN   SPAIN.    531 


in^whom  is 

however,  cer- 
leration;  my 
ly  say.     My 

and  I  have 
hbishop  came 

satisfaction 

verence  could 
jjelf  or  grand- 
He  was  one 
1  never  forget 

his  infancy. 
;ould  not ;  that 
that  even  from 
'ith  a  troubled 
no  longer ;  so 
}  remained  one 
cese,  where  he 

for  sanctity, 
le.     Have  you 
,re  to  be  found 

now  it.  There 
thood,  and  not 
ome  of  the  most 
iave  been  of  us, 
liem  at  this  day 
festival  of  the 
are  sure  to  ^vsit 


me :  and  then,  when  all  is  made  close  and 


and 


i 


have  been 


secur( 
through,  they  sit 


the  fitting  ceremonies 

down  upon  the  floor  and  curse.       ^  '       ' 

Myself. — Are  you  numerous  in  the  large  towns  ? 

Aharhenel. — By  no  means ;  our  places  of  abode  are 
seldom  the  large  towns ;  we  prefer  the  villages,  and 
rarely  enter  the  large  towns  but  on  business.  Indeed, 
we  are  not  a  numerous  people,  and  there  are  few  pro- 
vinces of  Spain  which  contain  more  than  twenty  fami- 
lies. None  of  us  are  poor,  and  those  among  us  who 
serve  do  so  more  from  choice  than  necessity,  for  by 
serving  each  other  we  acquire  different  trades.  Not 
unfrequently  the  time  of  service  is  that  of  courtship 
also,  and  the  servants  eventually  marry  the  daughters 
of  the  house. 

We  continued  in  discourse  the  greater  part  of  the 
night ;  the  next  morning  I  prepared  to  depart.  My 
companion,  however,  advised  me  to  remain  where  I  was 
for  that  day.  "  And  if  you  respect  my  coimsel,"  said 
he,  "  you  will  not  proceed  farther  in  tliis  manner.  To- 
night the  diligence  will  arrive  from  Estrcmadura,  on  its 
way  to  Madrid.  Deposit  yourself  therein :  it  is  the 
safest  and  most  speedy  mode  of  travelling.  As  for 
your  Caballeria,  I  will  myself  pure- sse  her." 

Mr.  Borrow  followed  the  sensible  advice  that  con- 
cludes this  very  extraordinary  conversation.  On  reach- 
ing Madrid,  (February,  1836)  he  takep  lodgings  in  the 
house  of  a  fat  old  woman  from  Valladolid,  whose  son,  a 
tailor,  is  one  of  the  most  profligate  little  fellows  wear- 
ing the  uniform  of  the  national  guard. 


0 


NAPOLEON   AT  THB  GREAT  ST.  DEBNARD. 


EXCURSION  TO  THE  GREAT  ST.  BERNARD, 
BY  AN  ENGLISH  LADY. 

IIILE  visiting  Switzerland  in  the 
summer  of  1850,  we  were  able 
to  realise  the  long-anticipated 
pleasure  of  visiting  the  renowned 
Hospice  on  the  top  of  the  Great 
St.  Bernard — an  Alpine  height 
where  one  may  be  said  to  look  into  the  nortli  of  Eu- 
rope on  the  one  side,  and  the  south,  with  its  sunny 
skies,  on  the  other.  It  was  about  six  o'clock  in  o 
very  delightful  morning  when  we  started  from  Mar 
tlgny  to  go  upon  this  interesting  excursion. 

But  whilst  we  have  been  feasting  our  eyes  with  the 
Bcenery,  our  civil  landlord  of  La  Poste,  and  his  most 
perfect  waiter,  have  boon  waiting  to  hand  us  into  the 
curtained  char-a-banc  which  is  to  convey  us  to  Liddes  , 
after  which  rauuutain  hamlet,  the  road  becomes  ira 


M 


EXCURSION    TO   TIIK    iillKAT   ST.    iililXAnD. 


OOi 


BERNARD, 


;zerland  in  the^ 
we  wore  able 
mg-anticipated 
;  the  renowned 
p  of  the  Great 
Alpine  height 
)  north  of  Eu- 
with  its  sunny 
c  o'clock  in  o 
ted  from  Mar 
on. 

•  eyes  with  the 
,  and  his  most 
.nd  us  into  the 
y  us  to  Liddes 
d  becomes  im 


/ 

I 


practicable  for   carriages,   and  we    arc  to  uiuuut    our 
mules. 

Our  road  was  any  thing  but  solitary,  for  both  ycstcr- 
<lay  and  to-day  are  kept  iis  annual  fetes  by  the  people; 
and  three  hundred  peasants  who  had  been  to  offer  their 
devotions  at  the  shrine  of  the  Hospice  of  the  Great  St. 
Bernard,  and  had  slept  at  the  convent  the  previous 
night,  were  now  returning  to  their  homes. 

On  arriving  at  Liddes  in  +he  little  inn,  v\e  were 
ushered  into  a  smtill  room,  already  occupied  by  a 
numerous  French  family,  returning  from  a  mountain 
excursion,  and  by  two  parties  c^'  Italians,  Yv'e  were, 
however,  accommodated  with  a  t!i1>le  in  the  coriicr,  and 
soon  supplied  with  deliciou.s  veni;>on,  milk,  i)i(M(l,  and 
a  bottle  of  vin  d'Asti,  v.hich  one  l)ntt!e  v.as  (ijii 
any  St.  rerr3\  We  ncv  ^-r  ai'ioi-'.arils  had  tlu 
irood  fortune  when  wc  railed  ('.)i-    L-iniJ!:u-  wine 


to 
same 

n  - 

r.  0 


o!ir  cxn. 
1 


•1- 


t'Cni'i 


were  very  hungry,  and  did  amjile  justici:  to 
lent  fare.  Tiie  little  room  was  vorv  close  frc.n 
so  overcrowded,  so  that  we  did  not  at  all  regret  the 
departure  of  the  guests,  who,  with  the  eAce[)t;o;i  oF  two 
Italians,  speedily  bowed  tiiemsohos  out  of  our  jivescnce. 
Edward,  not  having  been  hitcly  nnicli  of  a  p>edertri;in, 
doubted  his  powers  to  keep  up  with  my  niulo  and 
guide,  and  it  was  therefore  agreed  that  he  slunild  pre- 
cede us  at  his  own  leisurely  pace ;  so  with  his  good 
oaken  staff  he  also  departed. 

I  felt  not  the  least  uneasy  in  being  thus  left  to  tho 
care  of  my  guide,  and  had  never  even  given  a  thought 
to  the  two  Italians,  who  remained  with  me  in  tho 
Balon.  Seated  on  a  sofa,  I  studied,  Avhat  my  unfailing 
companion,  "  Murray's  Hand  Book,"  had  to  say  about 

45* 


534 


rERILOtIS   ADVENTURES. 


0 

0 


our  route  ;  and  occasionally  I  glanced  anxiously  at  tho 
clouds  that  began  to  scud  across  the  sky  more  quickly 
than  I  liked.  Soon,  however,  the  loud,  noisy  alter- 
cation of  my  companions,  drew  my  attention  more  to 
them.  One  was  a  fine,  tall,  athletic  man,  with  a  face 
as  dark  as  a  European's  could  well  be ;  his  hair  and 
moustache,  brows  and  eyelashes,  perfectly  black.  The 
other  was  deformed,  and  had  besides  a  club  foot,  too 
plainly  made  manifest  by  his  pacing  in  an  irritable 
manner  up  and  down  the  room.  He  bit  his  nails  to  a 
painful  extent.  Both  appeared  completely  to  have  for- 
gotten my  presence,  until  the  entrance  of  the  land- 
lady, who,  by  their  orders,  brought  them  some  brandy 
and  water,  and  who  looked  very  hard  at  me,  as  if  she 
expected  that  I  would  addrc-s  lier.  But  as  I  had 
nothing  to  say,  slic  slowly  retiiod.  Tliis  slight  action, 
hov.'over,  seemed  to  loniind  the  two  Italians  that  they 
were  not  alone.  The  club  footed  man  stopped  ab- 
ruptly in  his  deck-like  pacings  cxjictly  opposite  me, 
making  some  observations  Avhieh  I  did  not  understand; 
but  to  which,  wlion  he  repeated  them  in  French,  I  of 
coiu'.sc  replied. 

His  com[)anion  walked  to  the  window.  "Madam," 
ho  said,  "  had  better  decide  on  remaining  at  Liddes 
for  the  night.  It  would  be  impossible  for  so  delicate- 
looking  a  lady  to  face  the  storm  that  is  now  breaking 
over  the  mountains.  The  rush  of  wind  down  the  nar- 
ow  abyss  would  unseat  her  !" 

"  ^Indam  will  see  to  perfection  the  torrent  and  Avater 


r:M  nftli:'  V;.]  (): 


musingly  exclaimed  Club  Foot, 


to  whom  1  had  taken  an  invincible  antipathy. 

This  warning  only  made  me  the  more  anxious  to 


iously  at  tho 

more  quickly 

noisy  alter- 

tion  more  to 

,  with  a  face 

his  hair  and 

bhick.    The 

club  foot,  too 

an  irritable 

his  nails  to  a 

y  to  have  for- 

of  the  land- 

i  some  brandy 

me,  as  if  she 

jut    as  I    had 

I  slight  action, 

ians  that  they 

n  stopped   ab- 

'  opposite  me, 

ot  understand ; 

1  French,  I  of 

K  "  Madam," 
ling  at  Liddes 
for  so  dclicate- 
now  breaking 
.  down  the  nar- 

rent  and  water 

ned  Club  Foot, 

:)atliy. 

ore  anxious  to 


EXCUllSION   TO   THE   GREAT   ST.    BERNARD.      585 

overtake  my  brother,  who  had  left  his  overcoat  and 
plaid  with  me.  When,  however,  I  anxiously  inquired 
for  the.  guide,  the  only  answer  I  could  obtain  from 
both  hpst  and  hostess  was,  either  that  he  was  coming, 
or  that -he  could  not  be  found.  Thus  full  half  an  hour 
elapsed,  whilst  the  rain  beat  in  torrents  against  the 
windows.  I  lost  all  patience.  I  thought  of  my  poor 
brother  exposed  to  this  pitiless  storm,  and  for  the 
fourth  time  inquired  if  my  guide  had  not  made  his  ap- 
pearance. No,  he  had  not !  So  I  desired  that  an- 
other might  be  procured,  as  I  was  most  anxious  about 
my  brother.  All  my  expostulations  were  vain.  It 
was  evident  that,  as  soon  as  the  door  was  closed,  both 
host  and  hostess  troubled  themselves  no  more  about 
me. 

All  this  time  Club  Foot  seemed  heartily  to  enjoy  my 
vexation  ;  whilst  his  friend,  sipping  his  brandy  and 
water,  eyed  me  askant,  as  if  I  were  some  curious  study. 
I  got  angry,  and  running  down  stairs,  came  full  tilt 
against  a  boy,  who  was  seeking  for  shelter  in  the 
covered  archAvay.  "  My  boy,"  said  I,  "  do  you  know 
Jean  Joumont,  a  guide,  who  lives  here?"  He  knew  him 
very  well ;  and,  tempted  by  the  reward  of  a  few  batzen, 
brought  him  to  me  in  less  than  five  minutes.  Of  course 
no  message  had  ever  been  delivered  to  him  from  me. 
It  was  useless  for  him  or  any  one  to  remonstrate,  or  to 
entreat  me  to  wait  until  the  storm  was  over.  I  had 
but  one  object  before  my  eyes ;  Edward  drenched  to 
the  skin,  and  peering  out  anxiously  for  us  on  an  un- 
known and  perhaps  dangerous  road.  So  I  was  con- 
ducted to  the  shed  where  my  mule  awaited  me.  En- 
cumbered as  I  was  with  shawls  and  Tyrappers,  it  was 


636 


PERILOUiS   ADVENTURES. 


0 

0 


impossible  to  spring  into  the  saddle  !  Moreover,  flung 
across  the  creature's  back  was  a  sack  of  provender  for 
its  refreshment  at  the  convent,  no  provision  being  at- 
tainable in  that  sterile,  rocky  land.  How  was  I  to 
mount  ?  Ah !  I  was  told  there  was  the  substantial 
rope-woven  dunghill  placed  most  conveniently  at  the 
entrance  of  each  Swiss  hovel !  Well,  many  have  rise 
from  the  same  stepping-stone  far  higher  in  this  good 
world's  estimation  than  to  the  back  of  a  mule  ;  so  why 
should  I  have  objected?  Nevertheless  I  did,  and 
scrambled  into  my  seat  as  best  I  could.  A  dozen  kind 
peasant  hands  helped  to  arrange  ray  coverings  ;  and  as 
I  had  insisted  upon  my  ^uide  wearinor  my  ]iiriie  Mncin- 
tosh,  the  same  party  fastened  it  around  him  with  many 
a  laugh  and  jest  at  his  new  costume.  As  I  passed 
forth  beneath  the  window  of  the  salon,  its  sash  was 
thrown  up,  and  Club  Foot's  face  was  projected  thence 
with  a  malignant  grin,  as  he  congratulated  me  on  the 
weacher.  Of  this  I  should  have  taken  no  notice,  had 
I  not  perceived  his  companion  behind  him  raising  his 
hat  in  a  manner  which  made  me  involuntarily  bend  my 
head  in  token  of  farewell. 

With  the  wind  howling  around  us,  and  the  sleet  and 
rain  beating  against  us,  my  guide  and  I  reached  the 
wretched  hamlet  of  St.  Pierre,  where  we  trusted  that 
Edward  had  taken  shelter.  A  peasant  informed  us 
hat  a  gentleman  answering  to  this  description  had 
gone  on  towards  the  hospice.  So  we  pushed  forwards, 
until  a  shout  and  merry  burst  of  laughter  made  us 
halt  under  a  projecting  rock,  and  where,  in  its  farthest 
recess,  we  discovered  Edward,  perfectly  dry,  and  ex- 
tremely amused  at  our  forlorn  and  dripping  appear- 


)reover,  flung 
n'ovender  for 
ion  being  at- 
ow  was  I  to 
e  substantial 
iently  at  the 
ly  have  rise 
in  this  good 
aule  ;  so  -why 
I  did,  and 
A  dozen  kind 
ings  ;  and  as 
larsio  Macin- 
im  with  many 
As  I  passed 
its  sash  was 
jected  thence 
jd  me  on  the 
0  notice,  had 
m  raising  his 
krily  bend  my 

the  sleet  and 
reached  the 
trusted  that 
informed  us 
scription  had 
bed  forwards, 
iter  made  us 
in  its  farthest 
dry,  and  ex- 
ping  appear- 


EXCURSION  TO  THE  GREAT  ST.  BERNARD.   537 

ance.  At  first  we  felt  provoked,  but,  thinking  better 
of  the  matter,  withdrew  to  the  same  shelter  until  the 
storm  had  spent  its  fury.  With  the  first  struggling 
sunbeam  we  pursued  our  route,  our  guide  pointing  out 
to  us  the  spot  where  Napoleon  fell  as  he  preceded  lis 
artillery  in  1800,  and  where  he  encountered  the 
gi-eatest  natural  obstacles  to  his  ambitious  career 
across  the  Alps.  We  left  this  route  above  us,  and 
gladly  pursued  the  "  excellent  road  cut  by  the  Valai- 
sans  across  the  precipices  which  overhang  the  deep 
course  of  the  Drance.  avoiding  the  steep  rises  and  falls 
of  the  old  road,  and  leading  us  by  a  safe  path  Avliich 
tlieir  daring  ontrincers  have  cut  out  of  the  rock  lluough 
a  savage  and  appalling  defile." 

The  trees  and  shrubs  are  now  dwarfs  in  comparison 
to  their  brethren  of  the  valleys ;  but  there  is  rich  pas- 
turage in  the  Prou  where  numerous  herds  arc  feeding. 
We  still  ascend,  and  come  on  a  dreary,  naked  scene : 
not  a  blade  of  grass,  not  a  sign  of  vegetable  life ; 
brown  rocks,  snow,  and  ice.  We  shiver,  our  teeth 
chatter,  and  we  draw  our  mantles  more  closely  about 
us :  my  feet  are  benumbed.  Six  hours  ago  we  could 
hardly  endure  the  heat !  We  ask  anxiously  if  that 
enormous  mass  of  rock,  which  seems  to  shut  out  ah 
further  egress  from  the  vallev,  is  not  the  Great  St. 
Bernard.  No;  it  is  Mount  A^elau,  and  the  guide 
points  out  the  thread-like  pathway.  We  have  now 
reached  the  last  human  habitation  ere  we  arrive  at  the 
hospice — a  small  inn  that  can  only  be  inhabited  in 
summer.  I  gladly  enter  to  draw  more  stockings  over 
my  frozen  feet.  The  peasants  within  are  laughing, 
•iRucing,  and  drinking;  the  good-natured  hostess  pulls 


638 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


0 

0 


a  blanket  off  her  bed,  and  tucks  me  in  it  upon  the 
mule.     Three  Piedmontese  with  returned  mules  joined 
us  here.     One,  a  very  handsome  lad,  sat  with  his  face 
to  his  mule's  tail,  in  order  to  converse  more  freely 
■with  his  companion  who  followed.     Edward  had  also 
mounted  a  returned  mule  by  the  guide's  advice,  and  ho 
headed  our  party,  all  winding  along  the  edge  of  the 
reck  in  Indian  file.     Be  the  road  ever  so  wide,  the 
male  chooses  the  edge;  they  derive  this  habit  from 
being  taught,  when  carrying  burdens,  to  keep  as  far 
from  the  mountain-wall  as  possible :  the  least  concus 
sion  against  it  would  overbalance  them  on  a  narrow 
pathway,  and  would  hurl  them  over  the  precipicos 
The  Drance  must  now  bo  crossed  oveV  that  wooden 
plank;  but  is  it  wood  or  ice?     The  meriy  back-rider 
shouts  '  Coraggio  Signora !'  and  slipping  and  sliding, 
we  venture  over,  and  are  safe  on  the  other  side.     And 
as  we  still  climb  the  icy  pathway,  my  guide  points  to 
a  small  hollow  between  two  rocks,  and  tells  that  had  it 
not  been  for  the  Brethren  of  St.  Bernard,  he  would 
have  died  there  three  years  a^o.     He,  with  two  other 
men  had  urgent  business  to  transact  at  Aosta,  which 
lies  on  the  other  side  of  the  Pass  of  the  Great  St. 
Bernard.     It  was  in  the  spring,  when  the  sun's  influ- 
ence detaches  the  avalanches  from  their  snowy  beds, 
and  when,  therefore,  it  is  the  most  dangerous  time  to 
travel  in  their  vicinity.     It  was  a  dull  day  when  they 
set  off  for  Oasieres,  but  they  did  not  anticipate  rain : 
at  Liddes,  however,  a  drizzling  mist  fell  round  them, 
"which  by  the  time  they  had  reached  the  miserable  inn, 
where  I  had  been  lent  the  blanket,  had  turned  into 
elect  and  snow.     The  house  was  not  yet  occupied,  ifc 


I 


J 


EXCUnSlON   TO   THE   GUKAT   f-T.    liKIlNAUD.       539 


it  upon  the 

nulcs  joined 

vitli  his  face 

more  freely 

ird  had  also 

Ivicc,  and  ho 

edge  of  the 

so  wide,  tho 

habit  from 

keep  as  far 

least  concus 

on  a  narrow 

e  prccipicos 

that  wooden 

IV  back-rider 

and  sliding, 

sr  side.     And 

lide  points  to 

Is  that  had  it 

ird,  he  would 

ith  two  other 

Aosta,  which 

he  Great  St. 

le  sun's  influ- 

snowy  beds, 

jrous  time  to 

ly  when  they 

ticipate  rain : 

round  them, 

niserable  inn, 

I  turned  into 

t  occupied,  ij 


being  too  early  to  venture  a  residence  there.  So  they 
pushed  onwards,  never  speaking,  for  fear  the  sound  of 
their  voices  should  detach  the  loosened  masses  of  snoAV 
tnat  slightly  adhered  to  the  mountain's  sides,  and  con- 
gratulating themselves  each  in  his  heart  that  thus  far 
they  had  safely  journeyed  towards  the  hospitable  walls 
'  of  the  convent,  where  they  were  sure  of  a  welcome  for 
the  night.  But  on  crossing  the  Drance,  to  their  utter 
dismay  all  traces  of  the  path  to  the  convent  had  been 
obliterated  by  the  recent  fall  of  snow :  to  return  to 
Liddes  was  hopeless ;  the  shades  of  evening  were  clo- 
sing in  fast  upon  them.  With  beating  hearts  and 
uncertain  steps  they  sought  for  the  lost  path  in  every 
(livcction — in  vain.  Terrified  and  bewildered,  they 
seemed  to  be  hunting  in  a  magic  circle.  At  last  Jean 
declared  that  he  had  discovered  it ;  the  other  two 
maintained  he  was  mistaken ;  but  he  toiled  onwards 
until,  as  his  friends  had  refused  to  follow  him,  he  lost 
faith  in  himself,  and,  as  he  expressed  it,  sank  upon  the 
ground  Avith  a  '  dying  heart ;'  and  whence  he  instantly 
slipped  down  a  shelving  projection  of  the  rock.  His 
last  recollection  was  hearing  a  terrific  exijlosion,  as  if 
the  solid  rock  had  been  rent  from  its  base,  and  of  his 
agonizing  struggle  to  extricate  himself  from  the  soft, 
yielding  snow,  which,  the  more  he  wrestled  with  it,  the 
more  efi'ectually  wrapped  him  in  its  stifling  embrace. 
He  had  a  sensation  of  forever  sinking — sinking  ! — and 
he  remembered  no  more  as  all  consciousness  forsook 
him. 

The  monks  of  the  hospice  were  out  in  that  awful 
hour  on  their  charitable  mission,  as  is  their  usual 
custom.     Provided  with  lanterns,  and  carrying  vials  of 


540 


PERILOUS  ADVENTURES. 


0 

0 


restoratives,  and  accompanied  by  their  dogs,  they  had 
sallied  forth,  in  quest  of  any  helpless  travellers  who, 
like  Jean  and  his  companions,  might  have  lost  their  way 
across  that  dreary  solitude.  The  unerring  instinct  of 
the  dogs  led  them'  to  the  place  where  Jean  was  buried. 
They  burrowed  beneath  the  snow,  scenting  their 
course ;  whilst  their  long  bushy  tails  rising  above  its 
surface  told  their  masters  at  times  where  to  follow 
them.  When  close  to  our  poor  guide's  body,  they 
commenced  whining  and  scratching  the  ground.  Forth- 
with the  monks  dug  into  the  snow-heap,  and  discovered 
him  almost  dead !  He  was  placed  on  a  stretcher,  and 
carried  by  them  to  the  hospice,  where  they  tended  him 
with  all  tenderness  for  the  following  three  weeks  that 
he  struggled  between  life  and  death.  But  notwith- 
standing all  their  skill  he  has  never  fully  recovered  the 
shock ;  and  his  eyes  are  ever  most  painfully  affected 
by  the  snow.    Most  fortunate  it  was  for  him  that  he 


EXCUUSION    TO    THE   ClUEAT   ST.    BEnNAllD. 


'41 


)gs,  they  had 
ivellers  who, 
lost  their  way 
g  instinct  of 
n  was  buried, 
lenting  their 
ling  above  its 
3re  to  follow 
3  body,  they 
ound.  Forth- 
nd  discovered 
stretcher,  and 
sy  tended  him 
ee  weeks  that 
But  notwith- 
recovered  the 
afuUy  affected 
r  him  that  he 


had  slipped  into  this  crevice  of  the  rock  ;  for  the  ava- 
lanche had  rolled  harmlessly  over  it :  an  instant  later, 
and  he  would  have  been  inevitably  crushed  to  death. 
His  companions  were  found  close  to  the  hospice,  but 
in  the  blinding  snow-storm  had  failed  to  discover  its 
proximity:  they  had  been  walking  about  to  keep  off 
sleep,  but  were  at  last  yielding  to  its  fatal  influence, 
and  in  despair  had  thrown  themselves  on  the  ground. 

It  was  with  a  species  of  veneration  for  its  inhabitants 
that  I  gazed  upon  the  low  massive  stone-walls  of 
the  Hospice  of  St.  Bernard,  which  at  the  conclusion 
of  my  guide's  story,  appeared  in  view.  Here,  8200 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  live  a  community  of 
reUgieux,  who,  young,  accomplished,  with  every  feel- 
ing alive  to  the  enjoyments  of  the  world,  still  volunta- 
rily devote  themselves  to  a  life  of  toil  and  dangers.  In 
the  spring  and  summer  time  of  their  existence,  when 
*  youth  at  the  prow  and  pleasure  at  the  helm'  beckon 
their  bark  forwards  to  sail  on  the  stream  of  pleasure, 
they  cast  their  anchor  on  this  tempest-shaken  rock, 
heart  and  soul,  giving  themselves  up  to  the  service  of 
those  fellow-beings,  who,  in  this  dreary  but  frequented 
pass  of  the  mountains,  would  inevitably  perish  without 
their  aid.  For  here,  across  this  savage  solitude,  is  the 
great  peasant  thoroughfare  between  Italy  and  Switzer- 
land ;  across  this  pass  come  our  organ-boys,  our  dor- 
mice-bearers, and  those  children  of  the  south  who 
swarm  our  streets.  Almost  all  can  tell,  with  raised 
caps  in  sign  of  reverence,  that  they  have  been  wel- 
comed on  their  homeless  road  by  '  Our  Brethren  of  St. 
Bernard!'  Without  such  aid  hundreds  would  have 
perished.     Even  in  the  depths  of  winter  such  wander- 

46 


nnuLous  adventures. 


c 

0 


ers  are  forced  to  seek  its  shelter;  and  the  hospice  has 
never  been  known  to  be  witliout  its  guests. 

As  Tve  rode  up  to  the  low  dwelling,  one  of  the  breth- 
ren stood  at  the  door,  bidding  farcAvell  to  a  party  of  tra- 
vellers. We  alighted,  and  craved  his  hospitality  for  the 
night.  Ho  was  a  young  man  of  two-and-thirty,  with 
a  pale  countenance  and  delicate  frame ;  and  yet  ho 
braved  the  midnight  storm  in  the  cause  of  charity  !  his 
dress  struck  me,  woman-like,  at  once,  as  being  most 
becoming.  A  long  frock-coat,  fastened  down  the  front 
with  large  buttons,  and  descending  even  to  the  ankles ; 
full  sleeves  falling  over  tightv.  ^nes  of  the  same  mate- 
rial ;  a  white  collar,  worked  bead-fr .  hion  with  black ; 
and  a  linen  scarf,  with  black  silk  ends,  thrown  grace- 
fully across  the  chest,  composed  an  attire  at  once  most 
clerical  and  most  gentlemanly.  He  raised  his  velvet 
cap  with  courteous  grace  to  welcome  us,  and  expressed 
his  pleasure  at  receiving  an  English  gentleman  and 
lady  within*  the  walls  of  the  hospice.  He  was  tho 
clavendier,  or  the  brother  deputed  to  welcome  and  enter- 
tain travellers.  He  laughed  heartily  at  my  blanket, 
and  at  once  ushered  me  into  the  receptipn-hall — a  largo 
room  hung  with  pictures,  the  gifts  of  travellers,  and 
furnished  solely  with  a  long  table  and  chairs — after 
which  he  hastened  to  conduct  Edward  into  a  sleeping- 
apartment,  where  he  might  change  his  thoroughly- 
oaked  boots. 

By  the  wood-fire,  at  the  end  of  the  hall,  were 
crouched  two  Aosta  girls.  Immediately  on  my  en- 
trance they  rose,  and  offered  me  a  seat  between  them, 
commencing  a  conversation  in  semi-Italian  and  French 
perfectly  charming,  so  free  was  it  from  forwardness 


■I 

I 


EXCURSION  TO  THE  GREAT  ST.  BERNARD.   543 


he  hospice  has 
;s. 

c  of  the  hrcth- 
a  party  of  tra- 
pitality  for  the 
nd-thirty,  with 
and  yet  ho 
of  charity !  his 
as  being  most 
down  the  front 
to  the  ankles ; 
the  same  mate- 
3n  with  black ; 
,  thrown  grace- 
re  at  once  most 
dsed  his  velvet 
I,  and  expressed 
gentleman  and 
.     He  was  tho 
come  and  enter- 
at  my  blanket, 
3n-hall — a  largo 
'  travellers,  and 
id  chairs — after 
into  a  sleeping- 
his   thoroughly- 


,   were 


the  hall 
;ely  on  my  en- 
b  between  them, 
lian  and  French 
ora  forwardness 


■■ 


and  its  opposite  extreme,  sullen  reserve.  These  maid- 
ens, with  their  golden-bodkined  hair,  were  enchanted 
when  they  found  that  I  had  come  from  England ;  for 
at  first  they  had  taken  me  for  a  Frenchwoman. 
England  with  them  was  synonymous  with  gold ;  and 
many  and  curious,  though  not  at  all  impertinent,  were 
the  questions  they  plied  me  with.  "  Was  it  quite  true 
that,  though  wo  all  did  as  we  liked,  we  would  dio  for 
our  Queen  ?  Was  she  very  pretty?"  I  replied,  it  Avas 
quite  true  that  we  all  loved  our  Queen,  and  women  as 
well  as  men  would  fight  for  her  were  it  necessary : 
that  our  Queen  was  a  fair,  blue-eyed  lady,  with  skin  so 
dazzingly  white,  that  when  the  ermine  of  her  royal 
robe  had  rested  on  her  shoulders  it  looked  to  me  yellow 
in  comparison.  Upon  this  the  two  maidens  raised 
their  own  sunburnt  hands,  and  nodded  their  heads, 
until  their  long  earrings  swayed  to  and  fro  with  the 
motion. 

Soon  the  clavendier  joined  us,  and,  rather  to  my  dis- 
may, every  word  of  my  conversation  was  volubly 
poured  forth  into  his  attentive  ears  by  those  Aosta 
maidens.  He  entered  into  their  interest  about  trifles 
with  childlike  heartiness,  but  soon  turned  to  other  sub- 
jects ;  and  I  found  him  perfectly  acquainted,  not  only 
with  the  graver  topics  of  the  day,  but  also  with  our 
light  literature,  poetry,  and  recent  discoveries.  In  all 
this  the  peasant  girls  mixed  with  a  propriety,  where 
they  understood  the  subject,  Avhich  would  have  as- 
tonished me  had  I  not  met  with  it  before.  They  soon, 
however,  took  their  leave,  not  without  giving  me  a 
pressing  invitation  to  bring  my  brother  and  see  their 
beautiful  Aosta.     In  the  retirement  of  my  own  room, 


644 


PERILOUS   ADVENTURES. 


where  I  was  now  conducted,  I  could  not  but  marvel  at 
myself;  here  for  an  hour  had  I  been  chatting  away 
with  the  monk  and  these  peasant  maidens  without  re- 
straint— I,  whom  Edward  is  continually  lecturing  on 
eserve  and  hauteur. 


0 

0 


[ 


>t  but  marvel  at 

chatting  away 

lens  without  re- 

A\j  lecturing  on 


